Michelangelo Buonarroti was born outside of Florence in 1475.  Though he spent much of his life working in Rome, he loved Florence and considered it his home.  Many of his greatest works still reside in Florence, and Florentines are exceedingly proud of their native son. 

Although visiting the city can get pricey, many of Michelangelo’s treasures can be experienced cheaply, or for free! Angela K. Nickerson, author of A Journey into Michelangelo’s Rome, takes us on a budget-friendly tour of Michelangelo’s Florence.

Michelangelo in the Museums

The Bargello: Via del Proconsolo, 4  

Perhaps the best bargain in Florence, the Bargello is a small museum with an amazing collection of sculpture, all for one of the lowest museum prices in Florence (€4).  Here Michelangelo’s Bacchus holds court alongside his Brutus.  Bacchus was Michelangelo’s first commission in Rome, and it failed to meet his patron’s approval because he depicted the god of wine as a drunk.  However, his Brutus—a piece done in his later years—was well-loved, though it served as a scathing commentary on Florence’s political situation.  Donatello’s David is another gem on view at the museum.

The Academy: Via Ricasoli, 60

Home to Michelangelo’s David as well as some of the Captives (originally designed for Pope Julius II’s tomb in Rome), The Academy (in Italian-Accademia), is home to one of the most famous sculptures in the world.  The David cemented Michelangelo’s reputation as the greatest sculptor in Italy and won him a lifetime of work.  While the David is a gorgeous example of finished work, the Captives show how Michelangelo could take one unspectacular and enormous block of marble and create art.

Opera del Duomo:  Piazza del Duomo, 9  

Never crowded, the Opera del Duomo is a less expensive museum option (€6).  Michelangelo’s Florentine Pieta occupies a well-lit alcove in this lovely gallery.  Intended as his own tomb marker, the Florentine Pieta (1548-55) was abandoned, but the figure of Nicodemus still stands as a self-portrait.

Casa Buonarroti: Via Ghibellina, 70  

Also off the beaten path, Casa Buonarroti offers a chance to see the work of a young Michelangelo for a small fee (€6.50).  Scholars can access a large collection of his papers, drawings, and correspondence too.  But the casual visitor shouldn’t miss “Battle of the Centaurs” and “Madonna of the Steps”, both sculpted by Michelangelo while he was just a teenager. (So much for teenage indifference!)  “Battle of the Centaurs” shows a young artists’ mastery of movement and anatomy in a writhing mass of bodies.  And “Madonna” is the first of many sensitive portraits of mothers and their children, all created by an artist whose own mother died when he was six-years-old.

Michelangelo in the Churches

Santa Maria del Fiore (the Duomo):  Piazza Duomo, 17

The Duomo—whose sanctuary itself is free to visit—had only been finished for about 30 years when Michelangelo was born, and it was hailed as one of the world’s architectural wonders because Brunelleschi was the first architect to successfully build a dome after the fall of the Roman Empire.  Having grown up in the dome’s shadow, Michelangelo sent for its dimensions when he set out to design the dome over St. Peter’s in Rome. (Bonus tip: Remember, while you’re there, you can visit the Church of San Benedetto for free as well.)

Santa Croce: Piazza Santa Croce, 16

Michelangelo was buried in his home church of Santa Croce, and he is in good company alongside Dante, Galileo, and Rossini among others.  The church, however, charges €4 admission to see the tombs as well as the beautiful architecture.

Michelangelo for Free

Piazzale Michelangelo: Viale Michelangelo

Built to honor the great artist, the Piazzale Michelangelo is the best place to take a panoramic photo of Florence and the Arno River. Take a picnic or just hang out for a free hours and enjoy the people-watching.

Loggia della Signoria: Piazza della Signoria

According to legend the face carved into the doorframe of the Signoria was created by a blindfolded Michelangelo on a dare. During the Renaissance, the Piazza della Signoria was the site of Michelangelo’s David and remained as such until the late 1800s.  A replica stands there today amid other notable pieces of art including Giambologna’s “Rape of the Sabine Women” and Cellini’s “Perseus”. 

About the author: Angela K. Nickerson, author of ”A Journey into Michelangelo’s Rome” (Roaring Forties Press, 2008), married a Roman and fell in love with a country.  She now leads small groups of travelers on trips to Italy, but her wanderlust is relentless.  Living by the motto “Just go!” Angela jumps on a plane wherever and whenever possible.

Photo courtesy of Jeremy Barnett 

Poland is a country rich with history, and if you can experience it for free—all the better! Here’s a guide to a week of free museums. No need to spend a zloty to experience a wealth of Krakow’s art and history. 

Monday: Old Synagogue
24 Szeroka Street in Kazimierz

One of Europe’s most historic Jewish places of worship, the Old Synagogue is located in Krakow’s Jewish district, Kazimierz. It is an extension of the City of Krakow’s Historical Museum, and is considered the quintessential Jewish monument of Krakow. As such, it’s filled with relics of Kazimerz’s past including religious items, historic photos, and documents.

Tuesday: Museum of Municipal Engineering
15 Sw. Wawrzynca Street in Kazimierz

If you’re into gizmos and gadgets, then this museum is for you. The space feels like a virtual time machine into innovations past. Take in the old vehicles and other means of public transportation that date back to the early 1900s and explore technology’s impact on everyday life over the last two centuries.

Wednesday: Tourism Board

There’s a reason they call it “hump” day, folks. Take a break from museum wandering and check out Krakow’s tourism board web site for listings of free events. On the way, pick up a few paczki (pronounced poonch-keys). What a difference a day, and a doughnut, make!
                                                                                                                                                                          

Thursday: Czartoryski Palace Museum
19 Sw. Jana Street in Nowy Swiat

The Czartoryski is Krakow’s treasure trove of exhibitions. Founded in 1796 by Princess Isabella (credited with the motto “The Past to the Future”) the museum is most famous for housing Leonardo Da Vinci’s “Lady With An Ermine” along with Rembrandt’s “Landscape with the Good Samaritan”, and many more artifacts from the 13th to 16th centuries.

Friday: Dom Slaski (aka The Silesian House)
2 Pomorska Street just outside of Nowy Swiat

This museum is free everyday of the week (bonus!), but after all your other museum-hopping, you only have Friday left! First used as a Gestapo police headquarters, the Dom now hosts exhibits about World War II martyrdom and anti-nazi resistance. Admission itself is free, but it’ll cost a little extra if you want to take pictures.

Saturday: City of Krakow History Museum
35 Rynek Glowny in the Old Quarter

A patriotic little building proudly boasting the history of Krakow and its citizens, the History Museum has a compilation of old maps, documents, pictures, and city stamps. Its most appealing feature is a collection of colorful and intricate Krakow Christmas Cribs or szopkas.

Sunday: Archeology and Ethnography Museum
3 Poselska Street in the Old Quarter

Once used as a prison in medieval times, the Archeology and Ethnography Museum is home to the only known representation of a Slovanic deity, a four-faced 8-foot stone idol of Swiatowit. In addition, the museum always has a number of permanent and temporary displays.

Bonus Sunday: Museum of History of Photography
16 Jozefitów Street just outside of Nowy Swiat

Filled with exhibitions of present and past photography, daguerreotypes, cameras, and photo equipment, the Museum of History of Photography is a must-see for the still image artist-at-heart.

When visiting any city, we’re always relieved to find free activities to take the burden off our wallet. We’re happy to report that enchanted, moody Dublin offers a wide-range of high class sightseeing opportunities that won’t cost you a euro-cent. Our three faves:

Dublin Castle

For die-hard history buffs, reaching the Dublin Castle is like reaching the legendary pot of gold. The impressive stone castle is perched high atop the center of Dublin, overlooking the city. Tour the 13th-century Norman Tower and take a trip through the halls of its medieval prison. Free guided tours of all buildings on the castle grounds are available daily. Check out this historical landmark’s web site, with its interactive maps, 360-degree panoramic photos, and bite-sized history lessons.

Tip: Leave time for the gift shop where crystal jewelry and one-of-a-kind Belleek china pieces abound.

Irish Museum of Modern Art 

Old meets new at the impressive national modern art museum, housed in the 17th-century Royal Hospital Kilmainham, once home to retired soldiers. The museum was founded in 1990 and has been an artfully-big hit in Dublin ever since. As a result of generous donations and grants, its doors open daily for free. (cue: applause) A bit off the beaten path—it would take you about 40 minutes on foot—we highly recommend hopping on a bus and heading west of the city to take advantage of this collection.

Tip: Guided tours are free, but fill up quickly. Phone ahead or email the museum at least three weeks in advance to book a spot.

National Gallery of Ireland

Less of a gallery and more of a giant art consortium, this collection offers masterpieces by Irish superstars and European masters, alike. Free tours and lectures are offered daily and are often pegged to national themes. (Recent offering have included Turner’s influence on 20th-century artists, and the significance of Yeats and his diverse body of work.) The National Gallery is centrally located just off Merrion Square.

Tip: Stick around for a concert! Offerings range from chamber orchestra to quartets highlighting Irish composers. Many, but not all, of the concerts are free.

Denmark, home to Hans Christian Andersen and all those friendly, tall—and it must be said—great Danes, was recently proclaimed the happiest place on earth. In a number of population studies, pollsters asked residents to rate their level of happiness and other factors, and it seems the Danes have a real twist for felicity.

All this happiness, in spite of high taxes and hefty price tags? After all, according to the Big Mac Index, a Happy Meal must cost at least $5 in Copenhagen! Yet we agree: Denmark is a happy (and happening) place!

Here are five of our favorite and free ways to boost your serotonin in Copenhagen:

1) Get cultured 

In 2006, the National Museum and the Statens Museum of Kunst became free to the public. And, every Wednesday, a number of other major museums and galleries open their doors without a charge. We suggest the Tøjhusmuseet, where the relics of the Royal Danish Arsenal are housed, and the Hirschsprungske and Ordrupgaard Collections, two museums with some of the best French and Danish art from the 18th, 19th and early 20th centuries. For more info and to browse current exhibitions, go to the Copenhagen Tourism’s art museum page.

2) Park yourself

Copenhagen has some of the most expansive and pretty parks in Europe. Retreats like Orsteds Park, Frederiksberg Garden or Vondelpark are free to enter and stroll. Both have incredible sculptures and fountains and a host of traveling street performers. We also recommend the Botanical Gardens.

3) Get thee to church

Seriously, not only are Copenhagen’s many religious establishments architectural marvels, but they’re free to visit, and often host free concerts. Some charge a nominal fee for truly spectacular shows, like the Danish boys choir Christmas concert at the Church of Our Lady (Vor Frue Kirke), founded in 1209.

4) Grab a bike without paying

Yes, it’s that easy. You see a bike. You need a bike? You take the bike and ride it. A minimal deposit (about $3) gets returned when you bring the bike back to any number of designated spots. The promotion runs annually from May 1st to December 15th. More info can be found here.

5) See the statues

Go for a walk near the Copenhagen harbor, and spend some time gazing at the Little Mermaid. (She can’t charge you a krone to check out her scales.) Near City Hall, visit with Hans Christian Andersen. Later, walk the stone path at the Thorvaldsens museum in Slotsholmen.

Whatever you do, take lots of photos… or take brochures. After all, they’re free!

Maybe it’s Van Gogh’s trippy sunflowers or that wacky, tacky Red Light District. But there’s something about Amsterdam’s love of the unusual that pops up in its hotel offerings. We’ve weeded out the ho-hum hotel experiences to bring you a few of our favorite joints (so many puns, so little space!):

Hotel de Filosoof
What: Three-star hotel near the Vondelpark
Doubles: From € 80
Theme: Enlightenment

Each room here is dedicated to a philosopher. You could stay in “Clouds” and pay homage to Aristophanes and Socrates, drifting to sleep in a bed with a blue, velveteen comforter. Or, opt for Confucius, which lifts up the ideals of Taoism and showcases an array of strong, ancient-looking (intentionally) purple décor. Neitche’s room just plain scared us. (Not surprising, considering the whole “God is dead” thing. Sweet dreams!) Thankfully, the hotel has 38 rooms to choose from, a spacious outdoor garden, and an art gallery.

Hemp Hotel 
What: One-star hotel in the southern canal ring
Doubles: € 65 - 70
Theme: Baked not fried

Proclaiming itself “a unique specialty hotel for the hemp-aware traveler,” the Hemp Hotel is on our top ten list of favorite hotel visits (for purely professional reasons, natch). We were awed and amused by the various hemp-themed rooms decorated with eclectic furniture and a host of hemp-a-riffic accoutrements: hemp curtains, towels and plants.  The hotel is owned by a prominent marijuana activist and inventor of the Pollinator, a device that extracts hash from hemp leaves. With a coffee shop downstairs, the Hemp is a bit of a time vortex and many guests remain on for long, strange trips. (One guest, in fact, never left — and became one of the hotel’s managers!)

Winston Hotel
What: Two-star hotel in the Red Light District
Doubles: € 60-105
Theme: Artist madhouse

After spending a couple nights at the Winston, we labeled it ”The Winston Museum of Contemporary Art,” as each room was designed by a different artist. Décors range from simple opaque canvases to large-format paintings that resemble Spirograph creations. Many rooms also have their own distinct genres. For instance, the Heineken room enjoys a green, bottled-up effect (Note: See also Smirnoff Button room.).  Maria’s Room is furnished entirely in white, producing an immaculate, yet oddly Clockwork Orange feel. We bunked in a dominatrix-themed space. And liked it.  

The Greenhouse Effect
What: Two-star hotel in the Red Light District
Doubles: € 95-130
Theme: Out of this world

At this diamond in the snuff (it’s situated in the heart of the red-light district), themed rooms run the gamut from the plain and proper (”City Oasis” suite) to the downright surreal (”Turkish Delight” and ”1001 Arabian Nights”).  A trance-inducing club downstairs features live music each weekend and looks sure to provide oodles of Kerouac-ky observations for postcards and personal diaries.

Lloyd Hotel
What: One-star to five-star hotel in the Eastern Docklands
Doubles: From €90 (see Website for special offers)
Theme: Pick a star (rating)

Offering its guests a range of rooms from a one-star to a five-star rating, the Lloyd really knows how to shake up hotel classification systems! This sophisticated and chic hotel, located in a fashionable area, displays architectural majesty—1920’s art deco mixed with modern flair, and lets you pick a room, any room, via various star ratings. However all rooms provide the same amenities (free WiFi and satellite television) and all guests (even the Cheapos) enjoy the same 24-hour service. Furthermore, all have access to the fancy “Cultural Embassy,” a space that serves as an art gallery, entertainment space, and lounge.

A 1-star room offers less space and shared bathrooms, while a 3-star, for example, has noteworthy 1920s furniture designed by De Bazel. We’d likely opt for a 2-star, deemed “surprising” by the hotel on its Website, as you get your own bathroom with “plenty of room to take a shower” (insert joke here), and some even provide water views. On a search we did for February, we found double rooms from €90 (one star) to €210 (five stars). What a range!

We’d say all of these hotels are worth the trip.

Did we miss a themed hotel in Amsterdam that you know about or would recommend? Tell us below!

Autumn is here!

1. EastJet announced yesterday that is has acquired GB Airlines. A giddy glance at the GB route map turns up several destinations not currently served by easyJet, including Tangier and Fez in Morocco, Malta, Hurghada and Sharm el Sheik in Egypt, Tunis, Paphos, and Ajaccio and Bastia in Corsica. We’re hoping that easyJet won’t abandon these routes.

2. Jaunted reminds us that Madrid’s Festival de Otoño is in hyperactive mode through the middle of November.

3. Ryanair announced a modest route expansion today, with a new Shannon-Alicante route as well as new routes between Dublin and Palma, Santander, and Zadar. All routes will be inaugurated in March.

We don’t know about that “stays mainly in the plains” bit, but we’ll say with certainty that when it rains (in Spain) it pours—at least when it comes to artistic ventures. As bullfighting season draws to a close, the art scene is just revving up. Here are three main events to watch:

1. Thinking takes to the streets: For the first time ever August Rodin’s “The Thinker” has left its home in the Rodin Museum in Paris for an exhibition in the streets. The streets of Málaga and Granada, that is. On October 17, “The Thinker,” along with the six sculptures of the “Burghers of Calais” were unveiled Málaga’s old town. They’ll visit (under the watchful eyes of a 24 hour guard) until December 19; following their tenure in Málaga, they’ll grace the streets of Granada through January 27.

2. Cinema Paradiso: Film critics, mark your calendars! The Seville Film Festival opens on November 2 with The Lark Farm, Paolo and Vittorio Taviani’s World War I drama. The festival, which runs from November 2 until November 13, features only European films in its program of 150 titles from 30 countries.

3. Prado, Prado, Prado: There is much to be excited about at Madrid’s Prado Museum this fall. On October 31, Madrid’s majestic museum will unveil its new extension, and an exhibition of the museums best 19th-century works which have been in hiding for decade. As if that weren’t enough, in honor of its exciting news, the museum will be offering free admission on select dates and at select times.

Ah Spain, how we love thee.

Photo by oliviagiovetti

If you’re in Prague on Saturday, June 16, don’t spend your day museum-hopping. Wait until 7 p.m., when the bulk of the city’s museums and galleries will waive admission as part of Prague’s Museum Night.

In its fourth year, Prague’s Museum Night is part of a European movement to make art open, accessible, and (best of all) free. The only two museums not offering free admission are asking for “symbolic admission”: the Museum of the City of Prague is charging CZK1 (€.04; $.05), while the City Gallery Prague is asking for CZK10 (€.35; $.47) per entrant. If you’re completely strapped for crowns, don’t fret. There are over 15 other museums and galleries to keep you busy.

Transportation between museums will also be free. A handful of other cultural events and exhibitions will complement the evening’s festivities. So if you’ve ever found yourself jonesing for a Cinderella, stroke-of-midnight moment at Prague Castle, June 16 is your chance.

Photo by eks

A former flour mill, the Kampa Museum is, arguably we suppose, the highlight of Kampa Park. From the museum, bankside views of the Vltava are far less crowded than they are from the Charles Bridge. Plenty of trees offer shade for an afternoon nap or a perch from which the over-priced gelato sold at the kiosk just outside of the park’s entrance can be enjoyed.

Additionally, the cafe adjacent to the museum offers reasonably-priced wines, beers, and nibbles for riverside dining. Stop in after enjoying what is one of the best free art experiences in the city. Its roster includes Yoko Ono and Christo, and the lobby exhibitions are free—as is the entire museum on Mondays. Adults pay CZK 200 (€7; $9.40) and students and seniors pay a mere CZK100 (€3.50; $4.70) to see the both the permanent and František Kupka-Piet Mondrian exhibitions.

One of the coolest things about the Kampa just now is Julian Opie’s “Walking on the Vltava,” which includes two LED figures named Bruce and Suzanne walking outside on the river proper. A canal runs through the museum’s clear floor, and into the courtyard, allowing museum-goers to have their own Jesus moment.

Photo by jmv

Canadian photographer Edward Burtynsky’s photos are currently showing at a free exhibition entitled “Manufactured Landscapes” at the Canadian Cultural Centre in the 7th arrondissement.

Known for his portrayals of massive industrial landscapes which are at once frightening and eerily beautiful, Burtynsky documents much of the unseen backstory of globalization and our incessant quest for raw materials to fuel economic growth.

The exhibition contains selections from different periods of his portfolio from the past two decades, notably a series from the Three Gorges Dam in China. His work depicts the landscapes of mining, quarrying, railcutting, recycling, oil refining, and shipbreaking. These are powerful, sometimes overwhelming images with distinct echoes of Blake’s “dark Satanic Mills,” or, in other words, a very contemporary take on the Romantic outburst against the dehumanizing effects of the Industrial Revolution. If you liked Al Gore’s “An Inconvenient Truth” you’ll want to check out Burtynsky’s oeuvre.

The exhibition runs through August 25. The Canadian Cultural Centre is located at 5 rue de Constantine, 75007. M° Invalides.