When the weather turns warm, Parisians picnic. Sure, some stray as far as the terrace of their corner café, but many flock to parks, gardens and river-side quais to enjoy their beloved city. For cheapos, picnics have the added advantage of being easy on the budget.

Here are our steps for procuring and perfecting the Parisian picnic.

When in Paris, stock up like the French do!

Pick up your must-haves in this order. Hit up the corner boulangerie for bread, then visit the fromagerie for cheese. Next stop? A traiteur where quiches, terrines, salads and other prepared foods are the mainstay. And of course the marchand de vin for an inexpensive, but lovely bottle of wine—and, finally, the pâtisserie for some fabulous desserts. Even better, hit a weekly neighborhood outdoor food market, where you can actually barter with the sellers and snag everything in one trip. Check for days and hours.

Pick a picnic spot, but not any spot.

We have some favorites. In no particular order… 

La Cour Carrée at the Louvre (1st arrondissement): This enclosed courtyard at the eastern end of the Louvre is a fabulous spot for a petit répos. At any time of day, large, flat benches—free for the taking—are bathed in sun, and in the evening the museum’s lighting stunningly showcases the surrounding building’s architecture. Hang out and listen to musicians and performers, who play under the arches and near the fountain at the square’s center. There’s no better antidote to a busy day of sightseeing.

Pont des Arts (1st and 6th arrondissement): Exit the Cour Carrée’s south (river) side, and you’ll find yourself facing the Pont des Arts, a pedestrian bridge that turns into a sunset lovers’ rendez-vous on summer evenings. Views in all directions show off Paris’ sightseeing highlights. Here, you are perfectly poised to enjoy views of most every major Paris monument. Don’t forget the champagne!

Jardin du Palais Royal (1st arrondissement): Central Paris’ hidden gem is the Jardin. Even those who know its location can struggle to find an entrance through the arcades. The easiest way we’ve found is through Place Colette, by the Palais Royal Musée du Louvre metro station. The peaceful gardens, fountains and historic buildings surrounding the square are breathtaking.

The quais on Sunday (1st and 4th arrondissement): On Sundays, Paris’ river quais are closed to traffic and open to strollers, bikers, roller bladers-and, you guessed it: picnickers. One favorite stretch-out site is the grassy, tree-lined spot on the right bank facing Ile Saint-Louis. Sit back, relax and enjoy the sights.

Ile Saint-Louis (4th arrondissement): The banks of Ile Saint-Louis rank as one of Paris’ most romantic spots to set up for an evening apéritif. Join locals sipping champagne and watching the Bateaux Mouches pass as the sun sinks behind the Seine. The most coveted spot is at the western-most tip of the island (with views of Hôtel de Ville and Ile de la Cité). To get down to the river bank, take any of the stairways from the street.

Square Jean XXIII behind Notre Dame (1st arrondissement): This lovely garden behind the famous cathedral is much quieter than the touristy square in front, with arguably just as good a view. Shaded benches and impressive rose and flower beds make it a nice pause point before or after an encounter with church-visiting crowds. It’s also convenient to Ile Saint-Louis.

Square Tino Rossi (5th arrondissement): Enter from Quai Saint Bernard where a pedestrian path runs down to the river just after Pont de Sully and you’ll find one of Paris’ prettiest Seine views, facing Ile Saint-Louis and the back spires of Notre Dame. This park has a lively evening outdoor music and dance scene. Watch a tango lesson, or better yet join in!

Rue de Seine, square G. Pierne (6th arrondissement): This is a convenient little stopping point to quickly eat purchases from rue de Seine’s nearby boulangeries and to-go sandwich shops. Don’t miss the whimsical design of the benches in the form of open books.

About the author: Jamie Cahill is author of The Pâtisseries of Paris, a guide to the city’s bakeries, chocolatiers, ice cream parlors, tea salons and other spots for a light bite. A lifelong dessert lover, Cahill spent four years indulging her sweet tooth in Paris before relocating to London.

A reader asks:

“Do you have any advice for inexpensive, authentic Roman restaurants in the center of town?”

Annie Shapero responds:

Here’s the bad news: Rome is a gaping hell mouth of overpriced restaurants aimed at the hungry, innocent traveler.

The good news is that real Roman cuisine is actually a cucina povera, or poor man’s fare—a savory waste-not want-not approach to Italian cooking that utilizes the plant and animal parts you weren’t expecting. It’s hearty and filling, and like Southern soul food in the US, it’s tastiest at its cheapest… even in the center of town.

Near Piazza Navona, Da Francesco (Piazza del Fico, 29), Da Tonino (Via del Governo Vecchio,18 ), and just Alfredo e Ada (Via dei Banchi Nuovi, 14) offer no nonsense trattoria style dining that shouldn’t run you over €15 a person (including wine!)

In Trastevere, Da Augusto (Piazza de’ Renzi, 15) is the bonafide classic.

From Campo de’ Fiori, follow the scent of deep frying to Filetti di Baccalà (Largo dei Librari, 88), which is named for its specialty, fried slabs of salty cod served alongside puntarelle salad, a crispy curly hybrid of celery and romaine hearts, made from the stalks of chicory and garnished with garlic, oil, and anchovy paste.

In Rome’s grimier neighborhoods, you’ll spend even less. Testaccio and Garbatella (both within walking or busing distance from the Piramide Metro stop) have snubbed the made-for-tourists makeover and are well worth exploring for local “character.” Agustarello (Via G.Branca, 100) has been lauded by locals and the travel media alike as cheap and tasty. They do half portions too!

In Garbatella, Il Grottino del Traslocatore (Via delle sette chiese, 2) is best in the summer when tables spill out on the sidewalk. Otherwise, it’s a steamy basement setting serving huge portions of la cucina romanesca… which does include guts of all varieties in addition to the sumptuous spaghetti alla carbonara, matriciana, and gricia. This is not for the weak at heart.

Rules of the road:

1. At the Roman trattoria or osteria, portions are big and prices are low. You get what you pay for where service is concerned, but hey—you asked for authentic.

2. Order house wine only.

3. Ask for half portions.

4. Ask for their recommendations, not the menu.

5. Don’t ask for a receipt until they’ve quoted you a price. They often write it on the paper tablecloth.

Annie Shapero lives, writes, and eats in Rome. Annie wrote hotel reviews for EuroCheapo’s guides to hotels in Rome, Florence, and Venice. You can read many more posts by Annie in the EuroCheapo blog.

Get more bang for your forint with our Cheapo-tested tips for a night out in Budapest. Kari Hoerchler, who recently prowled the city’s streets hunting down hotels for us, also found out how to have fun…

Start the night with a free drink.

A cheapo could get a jump start on the evening with a free drink at the Matyas’ wine fountain in the Labyrinth of Castle Hill. However, we found it more efficient and enjoyable to fork out the HUF 8000 (roughly €31) to sample over 50 wines at the House of Hungarian Wines above ground.

Get your restaurant row on.

Ramble on over to the Liszt ter, the veritable restaurant row of Budapest. People watching is free of charge, not to mention fun. And, frugal dining spots abound. A fresh variety of cocktails, sandwiches and salads are available at Café Vian. ‘Pest favorites, including goulash and fruit soup, are served at Menza (which also serves international fare, like pasta and salads). Both restaurants run a tab of about HUF 3,200 (almost €13) per person.

Hit up a club.

For a walk on the wild side, head over to Erzsebet ter to catch live acts and art at the underground Godor Club. Even if the place gets overcrowded with revelers, it’s still fun to check out the stage from the park above via a glass bottom fountain. When we were last in Budapest, we made a visit. Pints of beer were HUF 480 (just under €2) and entry was free.

The late night and early morning crowd pumps at Szóda. Not only is the design of this club chic, but the crowd is notoriously hip, making Szoda the perfect place to find out where the latest and greatest kerts (makeshift bars in the courtyards of abandoned buildings) can be found. The team behind Szoda are also behind several of the city’s speakeasies.

Sit back and relax.

For a more mellow mood, catch local and European art films at one of Budapest’s opulent, old movie houses. Urania National Movie Theatre was built in the 1890s. Plush velvet seats and gold vaulted ceilings trick the eyes into thinking one is spending the evening at the much more expensive opera house across town. Stop by the box office to find out which films have subtitles. Tickets run between HUF 890 and 990 (€3.50-4).

Kari Hoerchler is a budget traveler and science fiction novelist stationed on Planet Earth. Not only has Kari been a star contributor to EuroCheapo’s guide to Budapest, she has also recently been spotted under spotlights on small stages in New York coffeehouses telling tall tales of a tropical island—and future vacation hot spot—in the Bermuda Triangle. Book ahead.

London can be a tricky city for dining. Long criticized for the quality of its fare (”It’s no Paris!”), the city has undergone a gastro-awakening over the past decade that has benefited the bellies, if not the wallets, of its diners.

So what’s a Cheapo to eat? Here are our dining tips, all tested and tried:

1. Go for conveyer belt sushi!

We were initially turned off by the robotic, ever-moving feel of these establishments, frequently seen in London’s malls and Tube stations, but the low prices always lured us back to the belt. Eventually, we even got a hang of it. (Not counting the time the California rolls spun out on our table.) We’re big fans because you watch all the sushi and sashimi as it’s prepared, so you know it’s fresh. You can also ask the chef to add a little extra something (Wasabi? Extra roe?) to your particular dish. Hey, if we’re conveyer converts, you can be too.

Try Yo Sushi, which has tons of locations all across London.

2. Eat with the fishes—and chips! 

Sure, we try to stay away from battered and fried, but you have to go there at least once during your stay. Our favorite fish and chips joint is the Rock & Sole Plaice (47 Endell St, WC2 ) in Covent Garden. For under £15, you can order a whole fish and taste a variety of dipping sauces, and have your chips too! If you can’t tube it to this spot, you can usually find decent (and cheaper) fish and chips in any neighborhood. Just steer clear of major tourist haunts (Read: Leicester Square) and larger chains like Slug and Lettuce that claim they have fresh oceanic fare. When in doubt, ask the locals!

3. Kebob it!

We’ve been there: It’s midnight, the pub just closed, and your tum-tum is grumbling. If you’re in Bayswater, head for a kebob stand on busy Queensway where, for a few pounds, you can get your lamb on. Doll it up with the fixins, which usually include peppers, tomatoes, hummus, tahini, and cucumber sauce.

We recommend The Taza Kebab House, where the lamb is always succulent and the pita sandwiches are filling.

4. Join the chain gang.

You may normally steer clear of chain restaurants, but local chains can introduce you to local tastes (mmmm…. mayonnaise!) and help your budget. Big name chain restaurants like Wagamama (Japanese) and Pret-A-Manger (eat-in or take-out sandwiches and coffee) are London mainstays, located throughout the city. Smaller chains like Hummus Bros offer a unique dining experience without exotic prices. Many of these chains offer lunch specials daily.

5. Get roasted.

Sunday is the best day to partake in a yummy, often three-course, gastro-pub meal. The menus are usually prix fixe, but you can always order stuff separately. And, if you haven’t been to a Sunday “roast,” it’s a great way to see London culture at its finest—and hungriest—as piles of bangers and mash, roasted chickens and beef, and plenty o’ pints are consumed. We love The Chapel Pub in Marylebone (48 Chapel Street, London, NW1 5DP ), where we’re always warmly greeted with a comfy seat and a fantastic meal.

Back in day, it was fairly typical to see many old Hungarian men and woman hanging out well into the night at a traditional coffee house in Budapest. Ideas were discussed and many pastries were consumed.

Today, it’s hard to narrow in on some of these ancient gems (no, we’re not talking about the old men and women), but they do still exist. And, the best part? An old coffee house or confectionery in Budapest can make for a fantastic cheapo’s night out. For the price of a cup of coffee and a yummy confection, you’ll be stepping back in time, connecting with Hungarian culture and often hanging out in a lavish turn-of-the-century building.

Here are five of our favorites:

1) Angelika                                                                                              

I. Batthyany ter 7

Open: Monday through Wednesday and on Sundays from 9 am to midnight; Thursday to Saturday from 9 am to 2 am

If the stained-glass windows, vaulted cielings and views of the Danube don’t draw you in, then the unique origin of this coffee house surely will. The Angelika, aptly named, sits inside the former crypt of St. Anne’s Church. Be sure to check out all the fabulous Buda ladies, who tend to sit here for hours sipping on the first-rate hot tea and engaging in conversation.

2) Muvesz Café
VI., Andrassy ut 29

Open: Daily from 9 am to midnight

This is a good bet if you’re planning a longer evening out as it’s one of the few old coffee houses that stays open late. They serve lots of yummy cakes and sandwiches. The décor is late 19th-century. Now, we admit, this isn’t one of the cheaper haunts, but if you want to feel like you’re in a legitimate establishment, Muvesz delivers. Look for ladies in fur hats.

3) Lukács ConfectioneryVI., Andrassy ut 70

Open: Monday through Friday from 9 am to 8 pm and weekends from 10 am to 8 pm

For years, this confectionery was a meeting place for the secret Hungarian police and served as a bank too. Today, it maintains that somewhat buttoned-up, underground vibe. You walk in through the old bank entrance and can even order a cake called the “bankar”. Lots of waitresses in fancy uniforms, pretty carpets and a huge dessert display make for fun distractions.

4) Ruszwurm                                                                                                             <I, Szentharomsag ter 7

Open: Daily from 10 am to 8 pm (though we’ve known them to close at 7 pm if they aren’t busy)

Smack dab in the middle of the castle disctrict, this is a true example of a smallish old Baroque coffee house. It opened in 1824. Spend the evening wandering the district’s grounds and then stop in—if you can nab a seat (this place gets packed, especially in summer months). Let yourself eat cake here.

5) Gerbeaud Confectionery
V., Vorosmarty ter 7 (just off Vorosmarty Square)

Founded in 1858, Gerbeaud still has all its charm. Crystal chandeliers hang above the crowds (the Gerbeaud can hold 300 guests at one time) and pastries are of both Hungarian and Viennese origin. Try the cognac cherry cake, a concoction by former owner Emil Gerbeaud. And, if you’re tired of tourists, you can always skip the hubbub at Gerbeaud and head around the corner to Kis Gerbeaud (”Little Gerbaud”) which has cheaper pastries and less flash.

We are unapologetically fond of German cafeteria food. When visiting the German capital, we always stop for a sampling of local cuisine at one of the state-run (and subsidized) Mensa cafeterias, where a nourishing lunch may be enjoyed for just a few euros.

Although Mensa cafeterias are commonly found on campus at German universities and packed with healthy, athletically-inclined students, the dining halls are open to the public, and you’ll often find yourself dining alongside area businessmen and women. For the adventurous tourist, the cafeterias offer a unique and budget-friendly opportunity to get a taste of the real Deutschland.

Cafeteria food is, mildly put, not everyone’s culinary preference. But we enjoy it and embrace it for all of its qualities – healthy portions, light seasonings, regimented serving procedures, and unwavering value.

How the Mensa works

Most Mensa cafeterias require that you purchase a “MensaCard” onto which you can load – and reload – cash. These cards are for sale in the checkout lines for €1.55. Once you have procured a card, take it to the loading machine, where you insert money and load it up. At some cafeterias, you may also pay with cash, but you shouldn’t count on this.

Please note: Do not continue with your Mensa adventure until after you have fully loaded your card. The cashier can’t load up your card for you. Bad and embarrassing things could happen. 

Your card activated, head into the cafeteria. Look for a big sign listing the day’s options (sometimes with illustrations), and note that most cafeterias offer daily options that are vegetarian, vegan, and “bio-essen” (organic). If you don’t speak or read German, it’s a pretty safe bet that you can ask any student around you for translation help. (“Schwein,” by the way, is “pork.” You’ll be seeing that.)

We usually head for the longest line, as it gives us a chance to survey the choices being dished up, and to overhear the ordering and practice our vocabulary. (English will probably not work on the women working behind the serving counter – but a smile and pointed finger usually does the trick.) Once your main entrée and side have been handed to you, slide down to the salad cabinet, and then head to the beverage dispenser. So many wholesome beverages are yours – milk, apple juice, orange juice, vitamin punch (Note: We’re still not quite sure what’s in the vitamin punch, but it does pack one)!

Now that your tray is filled with nourishing vittles, head to a checkout lane and be prepared to hand over your new Mensa card. If you’re a student, show your student ID before the clerk rings you up, as your prices will be markedly lower.

Our favorite Mensa cafeterias in central Berlin

In Mitte:
Mensa Nord
Reinhardtstrasse 30
Editors pick for dining in Mitte, north of Unter den Linden.
Monday – Friday, 9 AM to 3 PM

Near Alexanderplatz:
Mensa Spandaur Strasse
Spandauer Str. 1
Monday – Friday, 8:30 AM – 3 PM

Near Gendarmenmarkt:
Mensa Charlottenstrasse
Charlottenstrasse 55
Pop into this one when heading south of Unter den Linden or shopping on Friedrichstrasse.
Monday – Friday, 8:30 AM – 3 PM

Near Nollendorfplatz:
Mensa Kurfurstenstrasse
Kurfürstenstraße 141
Monday through Friday 8:30 AM – 2:30 PM

See also:

List of all Mensa cafeterias
More Mensa information in English, including menus!

Brits are of course now labouring under a diet of cold turkey. Christmas generates its own extraordinary traditions across Europe, which differ greatly from country to country. There is no such thing as a standard-issue European Christmas. The English certainly like their turkey on the Christmas table, but elsewhere across the continent firm Christmas favourites include baked carp, goose, spicy hams, and roast lamb.

Christmas may have come and gone in western Europe, but we shouldn’t forget that as we move east across the continent, things change. The Orthodox Churches still organise their affairs according to the old Julian calendar, and Christmas is not celebrated in most of eastern Europe until early January. By the time Russians sit down to have their Christmas meal (on the evening of 6 January), most western and central European households have already taken down their Christmas decorations.

The festive season brings its own cast of secular characters. So in Russia and other eastern European countries, Ded Moroz, also known as Father Frost, rewards children with gifts. Ded Moroz lives in northern Russia (click here to read more), an unkempt spot on the Sukhona river that is attempting to cash in on Ded Moroz in much the same way that Rovaniemi in northern Finland has proclaimed its credentials as the unbelievably tacky and ultra-commercial hometown of Santa Claus. While Santa relies on a bunch of elves for assistance, Ded Moroz lucks out in having secured the services of the beautiful Snegurochka to help distribute gifts.

Globalisation may have inflected many aspects of our lives, but Christmas still throws up its own culturally-encoded customs and characters.

This is the last in a series of eight postings by Nicky Gardner and Susanne Kries, a Berlin-based duo who edit hidden europe magazine. They will return with more contributions to EuroCheapo in Spring 2008.

A few food-related articles and posts that have caught our eye over the last few days…

1. Kevin Gould’s “Eat like a local…” Budapest feature in last Saturday’s Guardian. Mmmm, coffee and cake, and lots of it.

2. In the Telegraph, Gill Charlton’s guide to Naples, with its mention of ultracheap, ultradelicious pizzeria Vesi.

3. David Lebovitz’s France archive.

4. Nordljus’s riveting images of Istanbul, many of which are of things to eat.

We didn’t really think we’d make it through this week. Here’s our Friday list.

1. The most significant event we’ve come across in Europe’s low-cost air world this week is today’s news that Air Berlin is set to purchase Condor. Thomas Cook, which currently owns most of Condor, will be selling the airline to Air Berlin in return for an almost 30 percent stake in the expanded airline, plus €120 million. It still might not happen if Condor minority stakeholder Lufthansa decides to oppose the purchase.

2. We will be visiting Amsterdam in a few weeks and we’re already excited about frites with peanut sauce, Surinamese spicy chicken, and pisang goreng. Our advance research just turned up D’Vijff Vlieghen, which looks like a splurgeworthy place to sample “New Dutch” cuisine.

3. We have it on good authority that Ryanair is trying to muscle its way into Schiphol, and furthermore is considering route expansions to destinations in Tunisia, Croatia, Serbia, and Ukraine.

4. The Guardian delights with this piece on the UK’s top ten pub roasts. We like the looks of The Druid Inn in Goginan, Aberystwyth, Wales.

A few years ago, Mozaika’s burgers were named the best in Prague. Burgers outside of the U.S. are a sensitive subject: think of the role they play in the Whit Stillman film Barcelona, where the burger is symbol of what American can do right. The Mozaika burger may not be the best burger around, but it’s not an embarrassing attempt either.

The pros: It’s American sized, if a little sloppy—especially with the creamy mayonnaise topping, which tends to funnel down the edges of the lettuce—and comes with mushrooms, a rather Czech addition to a ground beef patty.

The cons: it’s never going to emerge from the kitchen anywhere near medium rare. Sorry.

In short, Mozaika is still worth a visit for those hungering for a slab of beef in Prague—think of it as burger outsourcing.