Brits are of course now labouring under a diet of cold turkey. Christmas generates its own extraordinary traditions across Europe, which differ greatly from country to country. There is no such thing as a standard-issue European Christmas. The English certainly like their turkey on the Christmas table, but elsewhere across the continent firm Christmas favourites include baked carp, goose, spicy hams, and roast lamb.

Christmas may have come and gone in western Europe, but we shouldn’t forget that as we move east across the continent, things change. The Orthodox Churches still organise their affairs according to the old Julian calendar, and Christmas is not celebrated in most of eastern Europe until early January. By the time Russians sit down to have their Christmas meal (on the evening of 6 January), most western and central European households have already taken down their Christmas decorations.

The festive season brings its own cast of secular characters. So in Russia and other eastern European countries, Ded Moroz, also known as Father Frost, rewards children with gifts. Ded Moroz lives in northern Russia (click here to read more), an unkempt spot on the Sukhona river that is attempting to cash in on Ded Moroz in much the same way that Rovaniemi in northern Finland has proclaimed its credentials as the unbelievably tacky and ultra-commercial hometown of Santa Claus. While Santa relies on a bunch of elves for assistance, Ded Moroz lucks out in having secured the services of the beautiful Snegurochka to help distribute gifts.

Globalisation may have inflected many aspects of our lives, but Christmas still throws up its own culturally-encoded customs and characters.

This is the last in a series of eight postings by Nicky Gardner and Susanne Kries, a Berlin-based duo who edit hidden europe magazine. They will return with more contributions to EuroCheapo in Spring 2008.

For over a week now we’ve been staring at a postcard sent to us by Miranda Siegel. Postmarked Kangerlussuaq, it bears an image of snow-covered houses in the Greenlandic town of Ilulissat. Miranda reports having eaten caribou, muskox, and arctic bilberries, among other exotic delicacies during her recent Greenland adventure. She also reports that capital Nuuk needs a budget hotel.

In news from another arctic land, we learned today that Karelian Trains—a partnership between Finnish and Russian Railways—have ordered four high-speed trains for the company’s Helsinki-St. Petersburg route. In 2006, the passenger tally on this route jumped 26 per cent over the previous year’s numbers. The company clearly hopes to maintain this momentum.

The New York Times’ “How to Enjoy A Nordic Ritual At Any Age” (Travel, March 4, 2007) focused on spa town Naantali in western Finland. The author took his family to the town in question and declared it an ideal destination for travelers with children.

Maybe for young American children, but certainly not young Finnish children. If you ask Finns what they think of Naantali, or any other “spa town” for that matter, all you get are raised Finnish eyebrows. Why waste time with frou-frou spas when you can have the whole family together in a big old-fashioned sauna?

Nude co-ed bathing, a family-friendly activity? Now there’s a real Nordic ritual.

Saunas are baths. Siblings grow up using the sauna together and continue to do so well past puberty. Boyfriends and girlfriends, ex-boyfriends and ex-girlfriends,
grandmas and grandpas, and yes, parents and children, relax together behind that steamy door.

Need more evidence? Sauna lore is part of Finnish childhood. Example: the story of the old man who fell asleep in the sauna. “His skin slipped off like a large sock when they found him,” we were told. “We made sure never to fall sleep in the sauna.”

 
image courtesy of Ivana Helsinki

Spring is not quite in the air, but it’s certainly on our minds. We’re dreaming of frolicking in fields where the green things grow.

In the meantime, we’re relying on the whimsy of some favorite Finnish designs—light, airy, and vibrant with nature—to get us through another winter day.

Here’s our Finland-inspired Spring 2007 wish list.

1. A floral, kimono-themed umbrella by fabric design company Marimekko. Click on that link. It’s insanely beautiful.

2. A crisp cotton frock from Ivana Helsinki, preferably patterned in birds, butterflies, ponies. Or kittens.

3. And while we’re at it, a ticket to Helsinki-Vantaa.