Michelangelo Buonarroti was born outside of Florence in 1475.  Though he spent much of his life working in Rome, he loved Florence and considered it his home.  Many of his greatest works still reside in Florence, and Florentines are exceedingly proud of their native son. 

Although visiting the city can get pricey, many of Michelangelo’s treasures can be experienced cheaply, or for free! Angela K. Nickerson, author of A Journey into Michelangelo’s Rome, takes us on a budget-friendly tour of Michelangelo’s Florence.

Michelangelo in the Museums

The Bargello: Via del Proconsolo, 4  

Perhaps the best bargain in Florence, the Bargello is a small museum with an amazing collection of sculpture, all for one of the lowest museum prices in Florence (€4).  Here Michelangelo’s Bacchus holds court alongside his Brutus.  Bacchus was Michelangelo’s first commission in Rome, and it failed to meet his patron’s approval because he depicted the god of wine as a drunk.  However, his Brutus—a piece done in his later years—was well-loved, though it served as a scathing commentary on Florence’s political situation.  Donatello’s David is another gem on view at the museum.

The Academy: Via Ricasoli, 60

Home to Michelangelo’s David as well as some of the Captives (originally designed for Pope Julius II’s tomb in Rome), The Academy (in Italian-Accademia), is home to one of the most famous sculptures in the world.  The David cemented Michelangelo’s reputation as the greatest sculptor in Italy and won him a lifetime of work.  While the David is a gorgeous example of finished work, the Captives show how Michelangelo could take one unspectacular and enormous block of marble and create art.

Opera del Duomo:  Piazza del Duomo, 9  

Never crowded, the Opera del Duomo is a less expensive museum option (€6).  Michelangelo’s Florentine Pieta occupies a well-lit alcove in this lovely gallery.  Intended as his own tomb marker, the Florentine Pieta (1548-55) was abandoned, but the figure of Nicodemus still stands as a self-portrait.

Casa Buonarroti: Via Ghibellina, 70  

Also off the beaten path, Casa Buonarroti offers a chance to see the work of a young Michelangelo for a small fee (€6.50).  Scholars can access a large collection of his papers, drawings, and correspondence too.  But the casual visitor shouldn’t miss “Battle of the Centaurs” and “Madonna of the Steps”, both sculpted by Michelangelo while he was just a teenager. (So much for teenage indifference!)  “Battle of the Centaurs” shows a young artists’ mastery of movement and anatomy in a writhing mass of bodies.  And “Madonna” is the first of many sensitive portraits of mothers and their children, all created by an artist whose own mother died when he was six-years-old.

Michelangelo in the Churches

Santa Maria del Fiore (the Duomo):  Piazza Duomo, 17

The Duomo—whose sanctuary itself is free to visit—had only been finished for about 30 years when Michelangelo was born, and it was hailed as one of the world’s architectural wonders because Brunelleschi was the first architect to successfully build a dome after the fall of the Roman Empire.  Having grown up in the dome’s shadow, Michelangelo sent for its dimensions when he set out to design the dome over St. Peter’s in Rome. (Bonus tip: Remember, while you’re there, you can visit the Church of San Benedetto for free as well.)

Santa Croce: Piazza Santa Croce, 16

Michelangelo was buried in his home church of Santa Croce, and he is in good company alongside Dante, Galileo, and Rossini among others.  The church, however, charges €4 admission to see the tombs as well as the beautiful architecture.

Michelangelo for Free

Piazzale Michelangelo: Viale Michelangelo

Built to honor the great artist, the Piazzale Michelangelo is the best place to take a panoramic photo of Florence and the Arno River. Take a picnic or just hang out for a free hours and enjoy the people-watching.

Loggia della Signoria: Piazza della Signoria

According to legend the face carved into the doorframe of the Signoria was created by a blindfolded Michelangelo on a dare. During the Renaissance, the Piazza della Signoria was the site of Michelangelo’s David and remained as such until the late 1800s.  A replica stands there today amid other notable pieces of art including Giambologna’s “Rape of the Sabine Women” and Cellini’s “Perseus”. 

About the author: Angela K. Nickerson, author of ”A Journey into Michelangelo’s Rome” (Roaring Forties Press, 2008), married a Roman and fell in love with a country.  She now leads small groups of travelers on trips to Italy, but her wanderlust is relentless.  Living by the motto “Just go!” Angela jumps on a plane wherever and whenever possible.

Hotel Dali
Via Dell Oriuolo, 17 (near the Duomo)

The Hotel Dali has been one of our favorite hotels in Florence since we created our Florence hotel guide in 2001. For the first in our “Checking In” series, we’re posing some questions to the owners of the Dali, Marco, 42 and his wife Samanta, 38 (pictured above).

EC: How many years have you owned and run the Hotel Dali?

HD: 10 years.

EC: What advice do you have for those traveling on a budget in Florence?

HD: Good question! In Florence, things are typically only free during culture week. This occurs during a different week each year and all the public museums are all free for seven days. During the summer time, there are some free tours of private gardens and the like. We recommend checking with the “associazione amici dei musei” office, located inside the Prato Museum.

EC: Where can I buy a great bottle of wine without spending too much money?

HD: If you want a good wine, but not a rare bottle, the supermarkets have a wide range of wines for lower prices. If you are looking for something really special (get ready to spend from €30 and up), spend a day in the countryside and visit the farms.

We recommend Castello di Brolio, Castello di Volpaia, Castello da Verrazzano, Capezzana, and Villa di Artimino. It’s a beautiful day trip and you can buy their wares at the end of it.

EC: Where can I eat a cheap, but wonderful meal in Florence?

HD: We suggest “Zio Gigi” on via Folco Portinari and “La Casalinga” on the other side of the river. For a fast italian meal, go to the corner of via de’ Macci e S. Ambrogio and try the kiosk selling “Trippa and lampredotto,” a typical florentine sandwich. Don’t forget a glass of wine!

EC: What’s your favorite free (or cheap) thing to do in Florence?

HD: Walking, walking and more walking. It’s the best way to get to know the city, to smell the food, enjoy the arts and, the best part? It costs nothing! Florence IS an open museum.

EC: “Don’t leave Florence without…”

HD: Visiting the church of San Miniato al Monte, behind Piazzale Michelangelo. The view from up there gives you a great understanding of the city layout. 

We also recommend walking through the indoor food market in the San Lorenzo area. It’s such a wonderful, typical Italian scene. There you’ll meet screaming sellers, people bartering for food, and you can buy all kinds of Florentine specialties without paying a lot.

EC: What souvenir should I bring home from Florence?

HD: Florence is known for its straw work, the typical handcraft of the city. Then, next to straw is leather, but look at the quality. Unfortunately, with leather, cheap is not always possible. Make sure to try our wines and Sbriciolona (a kind of salami).

EC: Any other tips for travelers in Florence?

HD: Don’t expect the Anglo-Saxon service and standards. We live in an old city with oftentimes old structures, so just enjoy your holiday, whatever it ends up entailing. 

Don’t forget, you are on holiday and you are learning to understand a very different country and culture. You may be confused by Italians. We talk loudly, moving our hands. We’re crazy drivers and are mad about food and fashion. But when you return home, we’re sure you’ll miss all the history and the quality of life you experienced. So open your mind and get ready!

Ah, Florence, Renaissance city of artistic treasures, architectural icons, and mouth-watering delicacies. And throngs of tourists. And locals zipping up and down tiny streets on scooters and motorcycles.

If you’re an adventurous traveler, you might consider seeing the city like a local — on a cute little euro-scooter. But should you?

Pros

Renting a scooter in Florence makes sense if you want to take scenic drives through the countryside. If you rent a typical scooter (like a Honda SH 125 cc or the smaller Cagiva Cucciolo 50), you’ll be able to drive along country roads and scoot your way through Chianti country. Sounds romantic, no?

The hilly countryside (and even immediate environs of Florence) are much less strenuously traversed on a scooter than trekked on a bicycle.

Cons

Renting a scooter is not practical if you simply want to speed up your city sightseeing. Sure, the locals zip about town, but they also are trained to avoid the busiest streets and pedestrian zones, and know how to stay alert for tourists and car doors.

Even if you plan to limit your scooting to areas outside of Florence, you will need to exercise caution, as small roads have their share of blind corners, speeding autos, and other scooters. Also, consider that most of central Florence is a pedestrian-only zone, and scooter riding is relegated to the busy side streets.

Legalities

To rent a scooter in Florence, you simply need a passport, valid driver’s license, and the willingness to plunk down your credit card as a deposit.  Anyone riding on a scooter must wear a helmet (which is included in rental). Also included in scooter rental are liability insurance and unlimited miles.

Both agencies below require that drivers have previous experience driving a scooter. As Florence by Bike states in the FAQ, “we suggest not to rent a scooter if you are a beginner.”

Note that you will not be allowed to drive on highways and freeways unless you rent a motorcycle. However, small country roads are just waiting for you.

Where to rent

Alinari scooter rental - Via San Zanobi 38/R. Located near the main train station, Alinari has lower prices than its competitor and offers more types and sizes of scooters. Prices range from €30 for a one-day rental of a Cagiva Cucciolo or Honda 50, to €55 for a Honda Bali 100 cc and €55 for a Honda SH 125. The shop also rents bicycles and motorcycles.

Florence by Bike - Rents the same Honda SH 125 for €65, but offers much helpful advice. Additionally, the shop offers a wide variety of bicycle rentals and organizes bike tours, including a Chianti bike ride that it claims is not terrible strenuous. Florence by Bike encourages tourists to opt for bikes over scooters for visiting the city. Daily bikes rentals run from €14 for city bikes to €35 for fancy racing bikes, with many options in between.

Have you ever rented a scooter in Florence? Tell us about your experience!

If you’ve ever visited the fabulous Uffizi museum in Florence, you probably know that your first hour (or two) there can often be spent waiting in a long, slow ticket line. And, that’s if you’re lucky. After all, the museum puts a daily cap on total entrants, so if you arrive on really busy days or after lunch, you can find yourself without a ticket at all!

Enter the sleek new website of the “Polo Museale Fiorentino,” the city’s governing board for 20 museums, including the Uffizi, the Accademia, the Pitti Palace, the Museum of San Marco, and more. On the site, you can take virtual tours of each museum, read about upcoming exhibits, verify opening hours, and map out locations.

But our favorite feature: The site now offers online ticket booking for all museums, allowing users to bypass the long queue and restricted entrance schedule.

How it works

The process is simple: You choose the museum you wish to book, pick a date, and then select an available entrance time. (At the Uffizi, for example, you may choose entrances in 15-minute intervals.) Proceed to the checkout, pay with a credit card (a €3 processing fee is added), and a confirmation will be emailed to you. Take this email with you to the museum (arriving, of course, during the scheduled time slot) and hand it over at the “pre-booked tickets” counter to pick up your tickets.

Yes, the site adds a €3 booking fee. But we’ll happily fork that over in exchange for a speedy (and guaranteed!) welcome.

Other museum ticket booking websites are out there, and we’ve recommended them in the past, but they tack on far more than €3 to your ticket. One of the most popular sites adds €11.50 to each ticket! Save it for post-museum Chianti, folks!

Photo by Bootsintheoven.com

Florentines love their Viniai, and consider them among the city’s most authentic and beloved spots for a bite. And man, are these wine bars cheap!

Though viniai are technically wine vendors, they’ve adapted to changing times and appetites, including the sandwich and snack craze. These days, a couple of Euros gets you a glass of wine, though a couple more will buy you a focaccia sandwich with your choice of ingredients. It’s one tasty deal. 

You’ll notice immediately that these are not large shops. In fact, they can be amusingly cramped. But they are packed, from floor to ceiling, with fabulous local and national wines (and usually a character or two!).

Recommended by tour guides and taxi drivers alike (and endorsed by the crowd almost always outside), I Fratellini (Via dei Cimatori, 38/r) is the city favorite.

Photo by Annie Shapero

A trip to Florence—or Italy in general for that matter—would not (and should not) be complete with a fabulous pair of leather shoes. Lucky for those of us with big shoe fetishes and somewhat less enormous budgets, there is Peluso, located right in the center of Florence!

The new collection is located at Via del Corso, 6/8. Peluso’s swank, all-leather designs don’t dare creep into the triple digits. The outlet store is located right across the street, and believe it or not, prices start at €19!

Your toes will be tingling with joy, and your wallet will hardly notice the difference.

Photo by Annie Shapero

Those in search of a sit-down meal deal in Florence—or at the very least something requiring a fork—lunch is the way to go. Loads of restaurants knock down prices to as little as €5 for a plate of pasta, and around €6 or €7 for meat and fish dishes.

Fiaschetteria-Trattoria Mario (Via Rosina, 2r. Tel. 055218550) is only open for lunch. Go early and be prepared to eat on your feet—or squeeze in at the first available seat with groups of hungry locals.

On the other side of town, at Trattoria Accadi (Via Borgo Pinti, 56r. Tel. 0552478410; see above), a Japanese head chef turns out some darn good Tuscan Italian specialties at rock bottom prices. You can actually have two hefty courses for around €12 total.

Who said you can’t eat cheap in this most touristed of cities?

 
Photo by ale2000

From the team that brought Florence Angels, the perennially hip bar and restaurant, comes Doris, a slick black and chrome nightclub that opened last week and already has the lovelies lined up around the block.

While after-dinner cocktails could run you into the double digits, the 7-10 PM aperitivo costs only €7 and includes the bar’s massive, fresh pasta-rific, buffet. It’s a Cheapo-friendly way way to get stylin’, a la Firenze. (We must add that the djs in the ladies room made us flush with joy.)

Photograph by angelocesare

How many pharmacies can claim frescoed ceilings and whispering shoppers? Only the Officina Profumo Farmaceutica Santa Maria Novella in the former chapel belonging to the Dominican monastery of Santa Maria Novella in Florence.

Since the 15th century, this herbalist and pharmacy has collected a faithful following of jet setters and average Florentines who fancy luxurious soaps, perfumes, pomades, and ancient infusions. Our top picks include Pasta di Manorle, a sweet almond hand cream perfected by the Monks, and a magic blend of handmade organic potpourri.

Good luck finding these rarities outside of Florence. If you do manage to do so, prices are double or triple what you pay in the original Pharmacy of Santa Maria Novella. Although not quite as cheap as the items on offer at the corner Boots or Duane Reade, these 600 year-old potions a relative bargain when purchased on site.

The pharmacy is located a stone’s throw from the Santa Maria Church on Via della Scala.
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