When the weather turns warm, Parisians picnic. Sure, some stray as far as the terrace of their corner café, but many flock to parks, gardens and river-side quais to enjoy their beloved city. For cheapos, picnics have the added advantage of being easy on the budget.

Here are our steps for procuring and perfecting the Parisian picnic.

When in Paris, stock up like the French do!

Pick up your must-haves in this order. Hit up the corner boulangerie for bread, then visit the fromagerie for cheese. Next stop? A traiteur where quiches, terrines, salads and other prepared foods are the mainstay. And of course the marchand de vin for an inexpensive, but lovely bottle of wine—and, finally, the pâtisserie for some fabulous desserts. Even better, hit a weekly neighborhood outdoor food market, where you can actually barter with the sellers and snag everything in one trip. Check for days and hours.

Pick a picnic spot, but not any spot.

We have some favorites. In no particular order… 

La Cour Carrée at the Louvre (1st arrondissement): This enclosed courtyard at the eastern end of the Louvre is a fabulous spot for a petit répos. At any time of day, large, flat benches—free for the taking—are bathed in sun, and in the evening the museum’s lighting stunningly showcases the surrounding building’s architecture. Hang out and listen to musicians and performers, who play under the arches and near the fountain at the square’s center. There’s no better antidote to a busy day of sightseeing.

Pont des Arts (1st and 6th arrondissement): Exit the Cour Carrée’s south (river) side, and you’ll find yourself facing the Pont des Arts, a pedestrian bridge that turns into a sunset lovers’ rendez-vous on summer evenings. Views in all directions show off Paris’ sightseeing highlights. Here, you are perfectly poised to enjoy views of most every major Paris monument. Don’t forget the champagne!

Jardin du Palais Royal (1st arrondissement): Central Paris’ hidden gem is the Jardin. Even those who know its location can struggle to find an entrance through the arcades. The easiest way we’ve found is through Place Colette, by the Palais Royal Musée du Louvre metro station. The peaceful gardens, fountains and historic buildings surrounding the square are breathtaking.

The quais on Sunday (1st and 4th arrondissement): On Sundays, Paris’ river quais are closed to traffic and open to strollers, bikers, roller bladers-and, you guessed it: picnickers. One favorite stretch-out site is the grassy, tree-lined spot on the right bank facing Ile Saint-Louis. Sit back, relax and enjoy the sights.

Ile Saint-Louis (4th arrondissement): The banks of Ile Saint-Louis rank as one of Paris’ most romantic spots to set up for an evening apéritif. Join locals sipping champagne and watching the Bateaux Mouches pass as the sun sinks behind the Seine. The most coveted spot is at the western-most tip of the island (with views of Hôtel de Ville and Ile de la Cité). To get down to the river bank, take any of the stairways from the street.

Square Jean XXIII behind Notre Dame (1st arrondissement): This lovely garden behind the famous cathedral is much quieter than the touristy square in front, with arguably just as good a view. Shaded benches and impressive rose and flower beds make it a nice pause point before or after an encounter with church-visiting crowds. It’s also convenient to Ile Saint-Louis.

Square Tino Rossi (5th arrondissement): Enter from Quai Saint Bernard where a pedestrian path runs down to the river just after Pont de Sully and you’ll find one of Paris’ prettiest Seine views, facing Ile Saint-Louis and the back spires of Notre Dame. This park has a lively evening outdoor music and dance scene. Watch a tango lesson, or better yet join in!

Rue de Seine, square G. Pierne (6th arrondissement): This is a convenient little stopping point to quickly eat purchases from rue de Seine’s nearby boulangeries and to-go sandwich shops. Don’t miss the whimsical design of the benches in the form of open books.

About the author: Jamie Cahill is author of The Pâtisseries of Paris, a guide to the city’s bakeries, chocolatiers, ice cream parlors, tea salons and other spots for a light bite. A lifelong dessert lover, Cahill spent four years indulging her sweet tooth in Paris before relocating to London.

You read. You posted. You conquered, Cheapos.

Recently, we regaled you with the story of our lackluster plane trip home from Paris. In short, we had a really crummy seat on an American Airlines flight and were forced to come up with ways to “overcome” the seats. We then asked you for your tips on overcoming such transatlantic trials.

In witty emails, funny blog comments, and some in-person chats, we heard it all. (Including, to our relief, that we aren’t the only ones who’ve posed strategically for photos in order to snap documentation of intoxicated passengers… Thanks Henrietta!).

We also learned some innovative ways to avoid seat discomfort and annoyance, including pretending to be pregnant, tuning out with an iPod, and playing trivia with other passengers.  One reader recommended the pharma-approach: pop a couple sleeping pills and say goodnight.  Others distract themselves with in-flight movies, no matter how inane (Mouse Hunt, anyone?).

But, alas, there can only be on winner for our Rough Guide to Europe on a Budget giveaway.
 

“Poetloverrebelspy,” aka Hilary, is our winner. A true Cheapo, PLRS offered countless tips in her post—stuff worth checking out before your next overseas trip. We especially loved her shout-out to SeatGuru, a EuroCheapo favorite for mapping out the right seat before you book your flight.

In her own words:

“I’m an ethnographer at heart, so I pretty much enjoy talking with my seatmates if they’re game. I think people’s lives are fascinating, and anyone traveling across the world generally has a good story to tell. Any flight attendant who’s willing also has a lot of funny experiences and insider insights to share.

One flight I sat next to a man who chewed tobacco and spit into a bottle every five seconds for the entire nine hours.

Another flight I was seated next to a Ukrainian woman who didn’t speak a word of English. Wasn’t she lucky I spoke Russian so I could help her fill out all her immigration forms! Couldn’t I order a vodka from the flight attendant to calm her nerves (it was her first time flying)? Couldn’t I order another to settle her upset stomach? (Thankfully, this story ends here.)

Any flight these days that has a personal video screen, I have no problem finding three movies to entertain myself. I usually have magazines I’m trying to finish, a guidebook I’m scrambling to read or mind puzzles for those long waits on the runway. And there’s always the iPod to drown out the sound of your neighbor’s . . . spit.

As for not getting shafted in the seat lottery, it pays to put the day when seats for your flight open up on your calendar (usually 90 days out) and go pick yours immediately! Use Time and Date’s Date Calculator to quickly figure out which day that is. If you don’t fly often enough to know what’s what on the plane you’ll be flying on, use SeatGuru as your guide.”

Thanks, Hilary. And thanks to all the readers who submitted their tips. Check out the blog for more contests in the near future!

2-star hotel
19, rue Monsieur le Prince
Paris, St. Germain des Prés
Doubles: €79-100 

Ahh… Paris is the city of love. And, we’ve got lots of it for the charming two-star Villa des Princes. In fact, you may recall that we mentioned Villa, the tiny 12-room gem in the middle of the trendy St. Germain des Prés neighborhood, a few days ago.

First, a little history. Back in the days of King Louis XIII, the 17th-century home was actually a dormitory for school teachers and was called the Hotel des Écoles. Today, many out-of-town teachers and professors choose the Villa as their headquarters, because of its close proximity to university life (the Sorbonne is just blocks away) and its reasonable rates.

Each room is très petite, and outfitted with comfy beds and spotless bathrooms. The hotel has named each room after a different neighborhood of Paris. We stayed in the “Marais” during our last trip. For those steamy summer nights, the Villa des Prince offers air conditioning, often over looked by other cheapo-friendly hotels.

One word to the wise: The hotel’s home-cooked buffet is worth splurging for, but don’t oversleep! We woke up too late on our first morning, not realizing that a lovely woman had been up since the crack of dawn making fresh breads and egg dishes. We’re still sorry about missing that meal!

Paris can get, how do you say?, “très cher.” After dining out in Paris for two nights last week, we were ready to give our wallets a break and try a Paris night à la Cheapo.

A stroll for free

After doing a bit of research, we mapped out a fun, Seine-side stroll from St. Germain des Près (where we were staying at the lovely 2-star gem “Villa des Princes“) to the foot of the Eiffel Tower. The whole journey took about an hour as we wandered along the river, stopping at bridges, watching the tour boats, and posing for photos.

A pancake dinner

By the time we arrived, we had worked up an appetite. Sure, we were feasting on the sight of Paris by night, but that didn’t quite cut it. We got in line for fresh crèpes from a street vendor and salivated as he poured the batter, flipped the pancakes, and added our ingredients: Nutella and banana for Mere, and ham and emmental for Pete. Two crèpes set us back about €7 and we shared a Coke (€1.50).

A free light show

We timed our walk so that we’d get to the tower just as the hourly ten-minute light show sparked up the sky. Light shows start at the top of the hour, after sunset. They occur every hour until 1 am or 2 am depending on time of year.

After ingesting crèpes and stars, Seine and Eiffel, we hopped on the Metro. For €1.50, we scooted from Invalides to the Latin Quarter.

Slow sipping at the cabaret

We were ready for some good company, old fashioned standards, and the wacky feel of live cabaret, so we ventured to “Aux Trois Mailletz,” our favorite cabaret at 56, Rue Galande in the Latin Quarter. Downstairs, the fancier vaudeville show costs €25 a ticket, but upstairs in the more casual piano bar, you need only buy a drink to sip it all in. (We also found that if you tip the singer and pianist, they’ll fulfill multiple song requests.)

Cheapos could sip a Coke for €5, which isn’t cheap. Beer costs €9, while cocktails run about €11-13. Obviously, you’re paying for the tunes, but you can sip your drink as slowly as you like. We think it’s worth the inflated drink price just to take in the music, the sight of dogs in the audience, and that weird glamour of cabaret performers running about in full makeup. Bravo!

It’s been over a year since this Cheapo has been in Paris, and since I arrived on Thursday with my fellow Cheapo (and wife), Meredith, I’ve been surprised by two very noticeable changes: 1. Smokeless cafes and restaurants 2. Nifty bike rentals appearing on many, many street corners.

I’ll save commentary about smokeless cafes for a later post. Coming from a relatively recently smoke-free New York City, it’s more or less a similar effect, although seeing the bustling cafes of Saint-Germain des Pres without piles of Gauloises Blondes stacked on tables seems a little, well, weird. That said, customers are allowed - perhaps even encouraged - to smoke at outdoor tables, so maybe the change isn’t really that big of a deal.

As for Paris’ “Velib” bike rental program, though, there is no question it’s a city-wide success. Initially I thought the program would be more of a tourist draw and envisioned mobs of backpackers with Let’s Go guides doing wheelies down the Champs-Elysees, but such is not the case (especially because the bikes weigh about 50 pounds, making wheelies quite a feat to perform.) We’ve seen Parisians riding solo, groups of teenagers, businessmen heading to work, packs of friends coasting at low speeds, as well as many out of towners enjoying a ride. The late night post-bar bike scene has been particularly entertaining to observe, although I think some thought should be given to providing discounted helmets as well.

The Velib program is financed by the French advertising company JC Decaux and is managed by little ATM-ish kiosks next to each bike rental station, where passes can be purchased for a day, a week, a month or a year. Bikes can be found in clusters of 20 - 40 on many corners across Paris - they’re everywhere, especially in central Paris. The bikes are locked to a small pedastal that unlocks once a customer swipes a bike card and off they go! Bikes can be returned to the same rental stations or any of the others throughout the city, and the first 30 minutes are free.

As for the bikes themselves, they look like a Parisian version of Pee-Wee Herman’s bike: gray, somewhat bulky, super fat “I could ride over a thousand nails and not care” tires, basket and a little bell. In other words: perfect.

Now if only they could make a tandem rental with a luggage trolley to get us to the airport tomorrow morning….

We love Paris. We love classical concerts and operas. And we love saving money. Thus, we combined our loves and put together a list of five ways to do culture in Paris à la cheapo.

Free classical music

Pick up a Pariscope, the weekly listings guide (in French), at any magazine kiosk and flip to the classical concert listings. You’ll see many freebie concerts, often by young musicians and local ensembles, held on Sundays in churches around town.

We’re especially fond of concerts in the 16th Century Eglise St-Merri, in the 4th arrondissement, which presents free concerts on Saturdays and Sundays throughout the year. (Incidentally, the bell tower contains the oldest bell in Paris, cast in 1331!)

Cheap seats for concerts in major venues

Paris boasts world-class performances in state-of-the-art musical halls. Best of all, many of these venues receive government support to help keep ticket prices affordable — or at least some ticket prices affordable. (Don’t be thrown by expensive seats. Hunt around a bit on the websites and you’ll find the cheap seats!)

The Salle Pleyel is a brand new performance hall, offering performances by classical stars and touring orchestras. Tickets can be found for major concerts from €10. (Check out our earlier post on the Salle Pleyel.)

Theatre du Chatelet located at Place du Chatelet in the 1st arrondissement, offers modern and classical concerts, from recitals to full orchestras. Again, ticket rates are surprising reasonable, starting at €20 for most concerts. The theater has a Sunday morning concert series with all seats going for €23 (€12 under 26 years old, children free) and no tickets are sold in advance. The ticket office opens at 10 AM and seating is open. (More information, in French.)

Cheap seats for Dance

Theatre de la Ville, located across from Theater du Chatelet, provides modern dance performances. Tickets are quite reasonable, many priced at €10-15.

The celebrated 19th Century Opera Garnier presents mostly ballet and modern dance pieces. Even if you’re not a dance enthusiast, you can’t help but be impressed by the building’s neo-Baroque architecture, sweeping staircase, 2,200 seat grand salle, and ceiling by Marc Chagall.

Cheap seats for Opera

The Opera National de Paris operates both the Opera Bastille and the Opera Garnier. The Opera Bastille, a controversial building when it opened in 1989, presents operas throughout the year, and boasts that each of its seats provides an unobstructed view of the stage. Although ticket prices go as high as €150, seats for the same performance go as low as €5. (Seriously, check out the ticket prices for Wagner’s Parsifal.)

We’ll see you at the show… in the cheap seats!

Naturally, EuroCheapo’s Paris guide is devoted to finding the perfect budget hotels for your next visit to the city. However, if you’re in the mood for something a little more intime next time you visit, you might consider staying in a Parisian apartment.

We’re not talking about an apartment rental, mind you. We mean a real Paris apartment, inhabited by living and breathing Parisians.

“Pour Vous Paris” is a friendly group of Parisians who have opened their apartments (and their extra bedrooms) to foreign travelers. Better yet, they’re enthusiastic about practicing their English, answering questions about their city, and even taking their guests on free walking tours of their neighborhoods. And the rooms tend to be cheap — from €45-60 for a single, and €55-70 for a double, depending on neighborhood and “comfort level.”

The group is not an agency and you pay your host directly upon arrival. However, you must pay an annual membership fee of €10 to join the program (€5 if under 26 years old). The apartment selection is small, so interested participants should book well in advance.

Even if you don’t spend the night with the group, anyone who joins the group can still participate in a range of free “Pour Vous Paris”-coordinated activities, such as shopping, conversational exchanges, and even picnics (just bring a picnic). For a fee, members can cook and dine with members, and even attend a “crepes party.” We’re so there.

More information:

“Pour Vous Paris” website

Message boards, in English and French

The other day, a copy of “Fodor’s Budget France ‘82″ landed in our office. The cute little book, measuring no larger than a pocket-sized Agatha Christie novel, has captivated and charmed us ever since.

For one thing, it’s so simple. The 178-page book is all text, providing three maps (France, Paris, and the Metro), ten chapters, and a phrase index in the back. The only photo to be had was an advertisement on page 174 for a Fodor’s language course, audio cassette-edition. The book retailed for $5.95 (about $13.00, adjusted for 2008).

Money and prices abroad in 1982

Obviously in 1982, France used the franc, which had an exchange rate of about $.17, or 5.89 francs to the US dollar. That is, if you exchanged your travelers checks at a bank. The book explains that travelers’ checks “are still the safest and simplest way to carry money.” Today, of course, travelers’ checks have mostly been replaced by credit cards and ATM machines, which can be found in airports and on every other street corner in Paris.

MasterCard? Visa? ”Credit cards are not widely accepted in France, and you’re very unlikely to find restaurants … that accept them.” We were in mid-snicker before we realized that there are still many small hotels and restaurants in Paris that don’t accept credit cards. Some things don’t change.

Sample costs in 1982

According to the book, you could expect to pay the following prices in Paris in 1982 for these “everyday expenses”:

• A ticket to the opera - 80-200 ff ($13-34 in 1982; $29-75 adjusted for 2008)
• A “tot of whisky or gin” - 15-25 ff ($2.50-$4.25 in 1982; $5.25-9.15 in 2008)
• A woman’s shampoo and set - 60-100 ff ($10-17 in 1982; $21.50-$36.50 in 2008)

In other words, prices haven’t really changed that much, even with the dollar tanking against the euro. Perhaps that shampoo and set would cost you more today, but you could still find plenty of “tots of gin” for less than €6.30 ($9.15).

Hotels in 1982

The Fodor’s guide recommends over 40 budget hotels in Paris, categorized as either “Inexpensive” or “Moderate,” and lists them all, with impressive brevity, on just two pages! Several of the hotels mentioned can still be found 26 years later in our Paris guide. (Don’t worry–we’re reasonably certain that they’ve purchased new sheets!)

For example, here’s what they have to say about de la Sorbonne, a charming little thing in the Latin Quarter: “6 rue Victor Cousin, a Latin Quarter special, atmospheric and genuine.” Did you notice what was missing, besides room descriptions? Prices! And phone numbers!

The book explains broadly: “Inexpensive hotels will charge about 80-140 francs ($13-24, 1982) for a double room, moderate ones will charge 150-220 ($25-37, 1982).” Those really were the days. Today, as we note in our “Expect to Spend in Paris” guide, you can easily find an acceptable budget hotel for €80-130, or $116-188 ($53-87 in 1982). So yes, hotel prices seem to have outpaced inflation. Hotels, however, have probably upgraded their standards.

As for reserving that special place, well…

“Remember too that many inexpensive hotels have guests on an almost permanent basis and aren’t interested in tourists wanting accommodations for a few nights; as many of them won’t take advance reservations and don’t answer letters, your best bet is to go from hotel to hotel until you get lucky.”

So much for the good old days!

Visiting Paris can be, how shall we say, très cher? But, several of its finest tourist sights don’t cost a euro-cent.

Here’s a list of our top five favorite free attractions.

1) Père Lachaise Cemetery

Frédéric Chopin, Guillaume Apollinaire, Honoré de Balzac, Édith Piaf… This cemetery is a “who’s who” of famous names, and not all of them French (Jim Morrison, Oscar Wilde, and other expats are buried there as well). Bring flowers to leave graveside or just stroll the cobblestone paths and well-landscaped grounds. Better yet, take a virtual tour on the cemetery’s web site. Check out Baron Haussmann’s mausoleum! Very schmancy.

Open: Monday through Saturday 8 AM to 6 PM and on Sundays from 9 AM to 6 PM.
Note: When sundown occurs before 6 PM, the cemetery closes at dusk.

2) The Seine and Islands

Man, if this river could talk! It has certainly seen its share of history, revolution, and passing love interests. Take a walk along the Left Bank and browse the local bookseller wares. The Seine’s stream flows by just about every major historic site (Hôtel de Ville, Musée du Louvre, Musée d’Orsay, the Eiffel Tower—to name a few). Cross the Pont-Neuf bridge for an added plaisir and visit Île de la Cité. Behind Notre Dame, cross the Pont St. Louis to visit the charming Île St. Louis.

3) The Eiffel Tower

Now, wait: Before you get all worked up, yes, it costs €11.50 to ride the elevator to the top of the tower. But, it costs rien de tout to take one of those novelty photos where you look like you’re giving it a pinch or kissing its pointer. And, here’s an added bonus: Each night at sundown, the Eiffel lights up the sky until 1 AM (2 AM during the summer months). Each hour on the hour after sundown, there’s a ten-minute light show, too.

4) Victor Hugo House

We first fell in love with Hugo when we read Les Misèrables (we finished it–we swear). Jean Val Jean is like a personal hero. Today, you can visit all permanent collections in Hugo’s first home—at the Hôtel de Rohan-Guéménée, which sits proudly on the gorgeous Place des Vosges in the Marais. Hugo lived here from 1832 to 1848. The collections, which are free to visit, showcase an impressive array of ancient Chinese pottery, original furnishings and beautiful classical paintings. Just don’t steal any bread.

Open: Tuesday through Sunday from 10 AM to 5:40 PM.

5) Sacré-Coeur Basilica

Sit on top of the world, or at least Paris, when you trek up to the glistening white ”Sacred Heart” basilica, perched 420 feet above the City of Lights. While it costs €5 to climb up the spiral stairs of the famous white dome, there’s no charge to walk through the gorgeous Byzantine-style Basilica, built in 1875 after the Prussian and German invasions. Afterward, you’re free to traipse through the picturesque streets of Montmartre.

Open: Daily from 7 a.m. to 11 p.m.

photograph courtesy of Josh Clark on FlickrParis Runners

Visiting Paris as a tourist usually means long days of hiking across town, climbing steps, and carrying a backpack. With so much physical activity, you can just forget about the need to hit the gym, right? 

Well, for us it also means days that begin with a butter croissant (268 calories) and end with a creme caramel (759 calories). In between the two — well, let’s not go there. After about a week, no matter how much you’re walking, one can start feeling the pastries.

What’s a Cheapo to do? We’ve tried a number of strategies, but they usually amount to very little (read: Semi-distracted push-ups on the hotel room floor while watching CNN International). There must be a better way to stay in shape, raise your pulse, and sweat off some of those delicious sauces.

Here are five cheapo ways to stay in shape in Paris:

1) Run

It sounds obvious, but if you’re a runner, pack your running shoes when you’re visiting Paris. If your hotel is located anywhere near the Seine, a morning or evening run along the river is a must. 

Every Sunday, the city’s “Paris Respire” (Paris Breathes) program closes traffic along the banks of the Seine to automobiles from 9 AM to 5 PM, offering the perfect spot for running, walking, or cycling.

2) Bike

The city-run Vélib’ public bike program allows short-term subscriptions (one-week passes: €5, one-day passes: €1). More than 10,000 cute bikes are available at 750 kiosks around town for 30-minute free rentals. Sign up, grab a cycle, and head for one of the many bike lanes. If you want a better workout, stay on the bike for an hour and you’ll only be charged €1. (more pricing info)

If you’re up for a Friday night adventure, join the “Paris Rando Vélo” group for a free group ride through the streets of Paris. The cycling group meets at the Hotel de Ville at 9:30 PM every Friday night, and on the third Sunday morning of the month at 10:30 AM. 

3) Rollerblade

Every Friday night, 12,000-15,000 rollerbladers hit the streets of Paris for a 3-hour speed skate through the city, escorted by the police department. The weekly event is not intended for beginners, as the massive group rolls over all manner of road surface, including cobblestones (yikes).

A more relaxed skating tour, the “Roller Rally“ leaves every Sunday afternoon from the Place de la Bastille at 2 PM. Rollerblade rentals are available at Roulez Champions, 5 rue Humblot (Arr 15), Metro: Dupleix (01 40 58 12 22).

4) Take an aerobics or yoga class

The American Church in Paris offers daily one-hour aerobics classes open to the public featuring a different focus every night. Classes are €10 each or €72 for 8 sessions. More information is available here.

Yoga classes are held all over Paris on every day of the week. Check out the extensive list of yoga classes on the AngloInfo website.

5) Go to the gym

The gym craze is just beginning to hit Paris (we’ve heard that several gyms are even getting rid of their smoking sections…). While most chains require expensive memberships that are not practical for most travelers, certain gyms do allow single admissions. Among them:

The Body Gym, 157, rue du Faubourg Saint-Antoine near the Bastille. (€16 single entrance).

Club Quartier Latin, 19 rue de Pontoise in the Latin Quarter (€19 single entrance). 

Find more gyms, classes, and fitness ideas on the Paris Fitness website.