photograph by Kaymaria Daskarolis

You simply cannot come to Athens and not see the changing of the guards. The guards standing in front of the Parliament building protecting the tomb of the unknown soldier are participating in what is viewed by Greeks as an essential tradition of the modern Greek State.

The guards in front of the Parliament building are known as “tsoliades.” They wear a modern version of the military uniform worn during the Greek War of Independence, and take turns standing guard in teams of twos. Each shift lasts one hour, and during that hour the guards are not allowed to look at passersby unless they try to approach the tomb. They also aren’t allowed to move until it is time for them to change shifts. Taunting the guards is frowned upon.

Every hour on the hour, 24 times a day and every day of the year, you can see the changing of the guards. The changing of the guards is an essential piece of Greece’s history and heritage. And best of all, it’s free to witness.

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