Hidden Rome: Monteverde Vecchio

Posted in: Rome Sights


Photograph by jenojenny
Photograph by jenojenny

Take the 44 bus from Piazza Venezia and you’ll find the unimaginable: a slice of Rome untouched by tourists.

Monteverde Vecchio, situated on Rome’s highest peak, is almost exclusively residential. Shopping is limited to neighborhood establishments. In addition to priceless views from Janiculum Hill, Monteverde offers a snapshot of everyday Roman life.

Get off the 44 just after passing through the set of arches, and make sure to arrive hungry. Across the street, the Archi Bar serves Peroni and acceptable panini to American University of Rome students. Just around the corner on Via Carini, Pizzeria da Simone serves the best pizza al taglio in Rome.

Afterwards, walk west down one of the side streets towards shop-lined Viale di Villa Pamphili, stopping along the way in little specialty stores. From there, check out Villa Doria Pamphili, Rome’s largest public park. Villa Pamphili also has plenty to see: sculptured gardens, vine-tangled statuary, and multiple villas, including the massive Baroque Casino and an antiquities museum in Villa Vecchia.

Click the bottom left corner of this map for details.

About the author

TJ developed a taste for travel while living (and ostensibly) studying in Rome. He soon began catching bargain-basement Ryanair flights to various European destinations, where he would immediately scope out the dodgiest bar upon arrival. (He also saw some art along the way.) After returning to SUNY Albany, he developed an independent study in travel writing, which was mostly an excuse to drive cross-country. The 7200 mile trip, made in 11 days with two friends in a very small red car, culminated in a collection of essays called MOVE!, which he describes as incredibly self-indulgent and quite un-publishable. After moving to Manhattan, he found his way to EuroCheapo and has spent most of his time writing reviews for the New York City listings.

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