Prague: Eating in the Past
Photo by iritabook
Ah, Prague’s bad old days of dining. There was a long period in the 1990s when yes, the food was cheap, but it was also a lot more… questionable. Put it this way: Asking for a green salad would get you a quizzical look—and that’s assuming you could find a waiter in the first place.
While it’s doubtful anyone misses that era in Czech culinary history, it’s amusing to see that the city isn’t completely rid of that type of establishment. In a review in the Prague Post last week, the paper’s restaurant critic makes clear that this culinary tradition is alive and well at a place called The Brother’s in Vinohrady:
Something I translated as “old Czech soup” batters your palate with incoherent strokes of garlic and salt. Clumps of vacuous white cheese bob under the surface, perhaps in the vain hope that the congealed curd will absorb a little of the briny, bitter sting. Or maybe folks brought up in more difficult times considered flavorless, caulky substances nutritious and filling.
While the prices at The Brother’s also hew to that older style (i.e. you get what you pay for), let’s be the first to recommend the wide variety of sausages available at kiosks throughout the city. Complex flavors may not be the culinary strength in Prague, but pork products most certainly are.