Prague: Vinohrady neighborhood walking tour
By Joann Plockova—
This is the second installment of a three-post series dedicated to an in-depth look at three of Prague’s most noteworthy neighborhoods. In the first post we had a look at an edgy, happening area of the city called Zizkov.
This second post will take us to the neighborhood of Vinohrady. I like to think of Vinohrady as Zizkov’s slightly older, more sophisticated, yet still hip sister. It’s a great place to walk, as it’s full of shops, restaurants and cafes, one of the city’s best squares and some lovely views.
As I did with Zizkov, here are some top spots to check out to have a full day’s worth of activity in Vinohrady!
Something to start to the day
120 00 Prague 2-Vinohrady
Tel: 773 458 073
Open the door and walk down the stairs into this compact, atmospheric café. It actually feels like you’re sitting inside a good book, and it’s no wonder as the wall to your left on entry is full of books. The venue, after all, combines good coffee with a bookstore and its own publishing company. You can also pick up a Moleskin journal. In the warmer months a few tables are set up outside, so you can sip your kava (coffee) or wine, streetside.
Something to see
As I mentioned, Vinohrady is a nice place to walk, so I’d recommend just taking a stroll through its quaint streets. Café Fra (above) is actually an excellent place from which to begin your journey. Make a left outside the café’s door and then make either an immediate right onto the street Bruselska, which will take you down some quiet, pleasant streets, or go straight ahead onto Belehradska, which is full of shops (including the Antikvariat Belehradska, below). Follow Belehradska until you hit Rumunska, onto which you’ll make a right.
Just a few paces up, you’ll essentially run right into a big square–home to the lovely neo-Gothic St. Ludmila church–called Namesti Miru (Peace Square). If the weather is good, have a seat on one of its benches and take a rest and people watch along with the locals.
Something to eat
120 00 Praha 2-Vinohrady
Tel: 224 252 778
Once again, you’re in luck: The Pizzeria Grosseto, one of the two best pizza places in the city, is located directly across from Namesti Miru. I love pizza, so if I’m craving a good pie, this is where you’ll find me (it most often beats out Kmotra, my other favorite pizzeria, because it’s closer to where I live).
Located on a corner, it’s comprised of one big floor and a balcony area with about five more tables. Besides pizza, the restaurant also offers pasta dishes, salads and soups. In summer, definitely ask to sit in the garden (out back, just around the corner).
FYI: They recently opened another location right on the Vltava river (but it gets crowded fast).
Something to buy
120 00 Prague 2-Vinohrady, Czech Republic
Tel: 222 521 043
Back on Belehradska street, head into Antikvariat Belehradska. Antikvariats are scattered around the city. They’re a special kind of antique shop carrying rare books, prints, stamps, maps, postcards and other unique paper items. Be sure to have a look at the bins hanging from the windowsills outside, as they hold discounted items. You will find a small selection of English books inside, but most of the fun is looking through all the treasures.
Something to drink
Vinecko Wine Bar
120 00 Praha 2
Tel: 222 511 035
This hopping little wine bar is a refreshing way to begin, or carry out, the evening. With two rooms and two garden seating areas in summer, Vinecko offers yummy wines from the Czech Republic as well as abroad. If you get hungry, they offer some light snacks. Be sure to get there early or make a reservation beforehand, however, as this place gets packed early on.