Amsterdam: 3 lesser-known, Cheapo-friendly museums

Tuesday, February 23rd, 2010
The Houseboat Museum. Photo by harry_nl.

The Houseboat Museum. Photo by harry_nl.

By Amy Goemans in Amsterdam—

With its vast number of museums, it is no wonder that Amsterdam is the cultural hub of the Netherlands. It is, of course, the quaint, lesser-known attractions that add color to this image.

The smaller museums in Amsterdam are interesting in their own right, and they also come with a smaller price tag than the more hyped favorites such as the Rijksmuseum.

Houseboat Museum
Prinsengracht opposite no. 296
(March-Oct) Tue-Sun 11 AM – 5 PM
(Nov – Feb) Fri-Sun 11 AM – 5 PM

You can hardly visit a city famous for its canals and not visit one of the houseboats! Touted as the world’s only museum of this sort, this vessel lets you catch a glimpse of life on the canal.

This freighter-turned-houseboat once was home to its owners for 20 odd years and thus, comes complete with a cozy living area, kitchen and other homely facilities. Admission costs €3.50, though entrance is free with the I’amsterdam card.

Tulip Museum
Prinsengracht 112
Open daily 10-6 PM

Since the Dutch are crazy about tulips, it makes sense that there would be a tulip museum. The museum takes you down memory lane, revisiting events like the tulip mania of the 17th century. The spot also has a shop with helpful books about growing these flowers as well as fun facts about various types of bulbs. Admission costs €4.

Willet Holthuisen
Herengracht 605
Mon – Fri 10 AM – 5 PM

Speaking of nostalgic trips, how about a glance at the life of ardent art fans? The Willet Holthuisen Museum was the house of Louisa and Abraham Willet, both of whom gathered an expansive art collection.

The house now showcases their fantastic collection of decorative ceramics, elegant furniture, and fancy cutlery.  The collection also includes beautiful paintings. Perfect for the history buff, the fully-preserved interior provides a peek at the life of the upper class. Admission is €5.25 (free with I’amsterdam card).

Popularity: 2% [?]

Berlin: A free walking tour of Mitte’s art galleries

Wednesday, December 30th, 2009
A piece by Kyungwoo Chun at the DNA gallery on Auguststrasse. Photo: by Garzon

Kyungwoo Chun at the DNA gallery on Auguststrasse. Photo: Garzon

By Susan Buzzelli–

You can’t trip in Berlin without running into an art gallery stocked with eye-catching works. Every kind of “Kunstler” from established masters to “outsider” (untrained, un-establishment) artists are represented in the spaces littering the city. Most spots in town, however, display drawings, paintings, sculptures, video installations, and conceptual pieces by up-and-comers or neophytes fresh out of the world’s art schools.

While a handful of the more established galleries (for example C/O Berlin, Sammlung Boros, and Sammlung Hoffmann) charge admission for the privilege of perusing their high-profile exhibitions, the vast majority of galleries are free to visit. As can be expected, some prestigious spots are as pretentious as they come, but most are casual affairs that you can pop in and out of on a whim, without fretting about your wardrobe or your cheapo bank account.

Touring the galleries of Mitte

Most (but certainly not all) of the city’s art galleries—from the upscale to the funky–roost in the central district of Mitte. After the fall of the Berlin Wall in 1989, gallery-owners based in Charlottenburg, the tony district in the western part of town that once dominated the city’s art scene, decamped to the “newer,” edgier side of the city to take advantage of its avant garde spaces, low rents, and international buzz factor.

Start a tour of the district’s gallery scene at the eastern end of Auguststrasse. Since many of the galleries lined up on this quiet street are window-lined, you can check out the artwork on display inside as you stroll past. At the western end of August Strasse, you’ll hit heavily-touristed Oranienburger Strasse, where the famous squatters/art commune (which has occupied a bombed-out department store since the fall of the wall) hovers above the corner of Chausse Strasse. You can explore the graffitied warren of studios and exhibition rooms comprising Kunsthaus Tacheles for free.

To catch a few more galleries, head back east along Linienstrasse, an elegant, café- and boutique-lined street that runs parallel to Auguststrasse. Be sure to admire the costumes on display in Wunderkind Vintage, a gorgeous space on the corner of Tucholskystrasse that is best described as a “gallery to fashion.” Turn right onto Tucholsky, where you’ll find a few more galleries. At Oranienburger Strasse, you can hop on a tram to Rosenthaler Platz.

From this bustling square, head east along gritty Torstrasse for a couple of blocks to check out the handful of innovative galleries and designer boutiques nestled on the southern side of the street. Double back to Rosenthaler Platz and walk north on Brunnenstrasse. (If you need a coffee break first, stop at one of the cafes on Weinbergsweg.) On the stretch of the wide street between Invalidenstrasse and Bernauer Strasse, you’ll find a smattering of youthful and unpretentious galleries. End your tour at the Bernauer Strasse U-bahn station.

Look for openings

As you explore the gallery scene, look out for fliers advertising upcoming openings. Catching a “vernissage” means the opportunity to mix and mingle with Berlin’s multicultural art scenesters, as well as score a free beer or wine.

For a more complete overview of the city’s gallery-filled hoods, download a copy of Kunstmagazin Berlin and check out their map and corresponding list of galleries.

Popularity: 5% [?]

Paris Quiz: Blue-striped sailor style and a book give-a-way!

Monday, December 21st, 2009
À bout de Souffle. Photo: TheMoveDB.org. Photos below: Theadora Brack.

Marine style in "À bout de Souffle." Photo: TheMoveDB.org.

By Theadora Brack in Paris—

In grand ole Oprah style, I’ve decided to round out 2009 with another contest give-away. Plus, I’ll doff my “bachi” (French sailor hat) to a few of my favorite things in Paris!

Be the first Cheapo to correctly answer the New Wave film-related questions below, and we’ll give you a handsome catalog from the exposition, “Les Marins Font La Mode—Sailor Chic in Paris,” accompanied by one sporty Sephora striped travel bag!

Stars in stripes forever!

Catalogue courtesy Musée de la Marine.

Photo: Musée de la Marine.

That fantastic exposition of Sailor Chic was presented earlier this year at the Musée de la Marine, located at place du Trocadéro. Whenever history, art, and fashion collide, Cheapos, I am there.

But who hasn’t been touched by the bold stripes of the traditional nautical shirts of Brittany (the coastal region where the French-striped top originated)? This look not only hooked appealingly rugged-types like Picasso, Hemingway, and Jean Paul Gaultier, but also lured Chanel, Rykiel, Schiaparelli, Jean Seberg, Brigitte Bardot, and Audrey Hepburn, just to name a few.

And it continues to captivate. Why, the very shirt that Audrey herself wore in the 1956 film “War and Peace” was recently put up for auction in London!

Beyond the sea!

Beyond the doubt, this French naval history museum is still worth a visit, even though the exhibit has closed. Dive deep into its vast collection of artifacts ranging from Napoleon’s gilded ceremonial barge (with all 24 oars still intact!), the Carmagnolle brothers’ diving suit (at 800 pounds, those brothers were heavy indeed), to toy boats that once belonged to the young Louis XV! (Museum hours are 10 AM to 6 PM. Closed on Tuesdays.)

Afterwards, head to the frip-frip-perie!

"King of Frip". Photo: Brack

"King of Frip." Photo: Theadora Brack

After your expedition to the museum, why not set out on a quest for the perfect striped shirt of your own? Described by Hemingway as, “very stiff and built for hard wear but softened by washings.”

In the Marais, you’ll find beaucoup de Breton stripes. Get your maritime on at the boutique King of Frip (short for “friperie,” a second-hand clothing shop) at 14 rue Vieille du Temple. Its wide aisles make it a favorite sweet spot of mine.

Though smaller, the Vintage Désir down the street at 32 rue des Rosiers also has bountiful goods. You’ll find the striped booty toward the front of the store, to the left—to the left.

Now, to the quiz:

Jean-Luc Godard’s classic “À bout de soufflé” (“Breathless”) was shot on-location in Paris. In the film, Jean Seberg’s character, a budding journalist named Patricia, wears a magnificent striped dress to a press conference at the old Paris-Orly Airport. Striving to make ends meet, Patricia also sells newspapers on the Champs Élysées.

1. Name the newspaper Patricia so charmingly hawks on the streets of Paris!

2. Also, give us the name of the French store where director Godard (Cheapo at heart) bought the striped dress featured in the scene.

The first Cheapo to answer both questions correctly wins the catalog from the Musée de la Marine’s exposition, “Les Marins Font La Mode—Sailor Chic in Paris,” and a compact spiffy Sephora striped travel bag, to boot! Please leave your answers in the comments box below.

Bonne Chance! Et Bonne Année, Cheapos!

Popularity: 5% [?]

Barcelona: Cheap tickets to classical concerts and opera

Wednesday, December 16th, 2009
The audience at Barcelona's Liceu Theater. Photo by scalleja.

The audience at Barcelona's Liceu Opera House. Photo by scalleja.

By Regina Winkle-Bryan in Barcelona—

When people think about Catalan Culture, they think Gaudi, Modernista Architecture, and laid-back Mediterranean lifestyle. They should, however, also think music. Barcelona loves music. While jazz and classical are perhaps the most popular genres in the city, all music is embraced with open arms in Barcelona.

This love of music means that there are concerts every night of the week. See classical on Monday, opera on Tuesday, jazz on Wednesday, blues on Thursday, and rock on Friday. Groove to internationally-renowned DJ’s over the weekend. There are plenty of shows to pick from and venues which range from posh to underground.

If you’re in the mood for something classical, the city offers an array of locations and programs to fulfill your desires. Here are a few of the best to consider.

L’Auditori

Concerts at L’Auditori range from inexpensive (€10) to pricey (€100). It is a matter of looking over their website and seeing what’s available. Quite often, performances on weekdays are cheaper than those on the weekend.

If you’re in town now, I recommend Camerata Aragon on December 17th, 2009 which is FREE. Another good one is Carmina Burana on December 18, 2009 for €18. Also, the Gran Gala Strauss featuring the Hungarian Philharmonic Orchestra plays on December 26 and 27, 2009 for just €10.

Liceu Opera House

It’s also possible to see an opera at Barcelona’s prestigious Liceu Opera House on Las Ramblas. For good seats to “The Magic Flute” and their other fabulous productions, you will have to pay a hefty sum.

However, if you don’t mind not seeing the stage, and just hearing the music, then you can get a ticket to most of the performances for about €10. From your €10 seat, you will be able to hear the performance and see it on a small TV screen set up in front of you. It is less than ideal, but it is a budget-friendly option. The Liceu has some biggies coming up in the next couple months including Montserrat Caballe, Verdi’s “Troubadour,” and said “Magic Flute.”

Bonus tip: Look for deals at El Palau de la Musica

Finally, it is always worth taking a peek at El Palau de la Musica’s concert listings. They often have deals on Sunday mornings. El Palau is a Modernista masterpiece and is absolutely the best place to see a concert in Barcelona.

Popularity: 5% [?]

Berlin: The must-see museums of Museum Insel and Kulturforum

Monday, November 30th, 2009
Inside the Pergamon Museum on Museum Insel. Photo by sunside.

Inside the Pergamon Museum on Museum Insel. Photo by sunside.

By Susan Buzzelli—

Cheapos know that the best things in life are free, but sometimes a city’s best sights will cost you.

So that you know when it’s worth loosening those purse strings, here’s a guide to Berlin’s two most splurge-worthy museums complexes, the Museum Insel and the Kulturforum. And, of course, we’ll show you how to cut your costs.

Museum Insel: An art and architecture delight

A natural island nestled in the Spree, the Museum Insel (S-bahn: Hackescher Markt or Brandenburger Tor) consists of five museums housed in grandiose neoclassical buildings. You could save euros by simply strolling past the impressive exteriors, which feature columns, sculptures and double stone staircases, but it would be a shame to overlook the eight collections of artistic and archeological treasures located inside the Bode Museum, Pergamonmuseum (Pergamon Museum), Alte Nationalgalerie, and the Neues Museum.

The Gemäldegalerie. Photo by stijn.

The Gemäldegalerie. Photo by stijn.

Get the most bang for your buck at the world-renowned Pergamon, which features the walls of Babylon and other priceless artifacts that German archeologists dug up in Turkey and the Middle East in the early 20th Century (when the “finders keepers” mentality ran amok).

The talk of Berlin, however, is the newly renovated Neues Museum. Minimalistic interiors designed by British architect David Chipperfield provide a backdrop for the city’s Egyptian and pre- and early history collections. Not to be missed: a magical bust of Nefertiti that gives Mona Lisa a run for her money.

Cheapo style: Many Museum Insel museums boast free admission on Thursday evenings, four hours before closing (unless the museum is hosting a special exhibit). Normal admission costs between €8-10. Go ahead and skip special exhibitions, which cost extra (usually about €3): they usually aren’t worth the money.

The Kulturforum: Major exhibits and priceless paintings

Nestled just west of Potsdamer Platz’s sky rises, the Kulturforum (S-bahn & U-bahn: Potsdamer Platz) is a cluster of museums, libraries, and performance centers built in the 1960s and still going strong.

The two highlights are the Neue Nationalgalerie, a boxy, glass-sheathed museum designed by Mies von der Rohe, and the adjoining Museums für Europäische Kunst (Museums of European Art), a trio of three museums under one low-slung roof.

The Neue Nationalgalerie

Not only is the Neue Nationalgalerie an icon of modernist architecture, but the permanent collection of modern artwork by Max Beckmann, Salvador Dali, and dozens of other angsty European artists is among the finest in Europe. It is the museum’s stellar special exhibits, however, that make it not-to-be-missed on our list despite the steep admission (€12). Skipping a visit to the Neue would be like passing on the MOMA in New York or the Centre Pompidou in Paris.

The Neue Nationalgalerie. Photo by Carolina Mendonça.

The Neue Nationalgalerie. Photo by Carolina Mendonça.

Museums für Europäische Kunst

If you aren’t into the exhibit at the Neue, pop next door to the Museums für Europäische Kunst, its exterior a mélange of historic and contemporary architecture. Its three museums, the Gemäldegalerie (Painting Gallery of Old Masters), Kunstgewerbemuseum (Museum of Decorative Arts) and Kupferstichkabinett (Museum of Prints and Drawings) are often overlooked by tourists, but we think they’re well worth the price of admission.

With its amazing collection of European art—including works by Botticelli, Caravaggio, Goya, and Rubens—the Gemäldegalerie is especially worth the splurge. If you hate sharing museums with hordes of tourists, this is the place for you: as the city’s best kept secret, it’s rarely (if ever) crowded.

Cheapo style: Individual admission to the Kulturforum’s museums is usually about €8 (€4 with a student card). But for the same price, you can score a one-day ticket that covers the above-mentioned museums, as well as the Kunstbibliothek (Art Library) and the Musikinstrumenten-Museum (Music Instrument Museum). The pass doesn’t include admission to special exhibits. Like the Museum Insel museums, admission is usually free four hours before closing.

When the Neue has two special exhibits on tap, a combination ticket goes for €12. Most of the time, exhibits set up in the main, glass-lined hall because they’re small and easy to check out from the lobby. It’s the larger, basement-level exhibits that are (usually) worth the price.

For museum buffs: The three-day Museum Pass

Note: If you’re a major culture buff (and have the capacity to take in a lot of art and artifacts in 72 hours), you should spring for the three-day museum pass that covers all of the city’s government-run museums, which includes all of the above-mentioned museums and then some. It will set you back €19 (€8.50 for students), but it will end up saving you tons of money—as long as you do some major museum hopping. The pass, however, doesn’t include admission to special exhibits.

Popularity: 6% [?]

Paris: Overcome jet lag with this tasty walking tour

Tuesday, November 24th, 2009
Ejoying sweets and sculptures at the Musée Rodin Sculpture Garden.

Sweets at the Musée Rodin Sculpture Garden. Photos by Theadora Brack.

By Theadora Brack in Paris—

Wake up! Wake up, you Cheapo-heads! Even in the City of Light, beating jet lag during the winter season is a difficult feat for most. Yes, the sun also rises, but not until late morning…

So to help out with jet lag in Paris, here’s an eye-opening walking tour with a sculptural twist, geared to jumpstart all six senses.

1. Food for thought

Start out at the Gérard Mulot Pâtisserie at 76 rue de Seine (Metro: Mabillon). Here you’ll find a bustling local crowd, service always with a smile, and a mind-boggling array of cakes, macaroons, and tartes that are gastronomical works of art.

With provocative names like “Miroir Passion”, “Sortilège” (”magic spell”), “Coeur Frivole”, and “Magie Noir”, the sweets will seductively compete for your attention. So keep your head and pace yourself. Take your time. Savor the moment. No one’s gonna kick you out. It’s Paris, after all.

The sweets on offer at Gérard Mulot Pâtisserie.

The sweets on offer at Gérard Mulot Pâtisserie.

2. A free museum

Speaking of masterpieces, before waking the taste buds, pick up a little formidable inspiration at the Musée du Compagnonnage at 10, rue Mabillon (just around the corner from the pâtisserie).

Rarely mentioned in the guidebooks, this free museum is dedicated to the history of trade guilds and is packed with intricate scale models of staircases, belfries, domes, and pulpits—all created by master carpenters-in-the-making. After seeing what went into building all those Gothic towers and Baroque palaces, you’re bound to experience the city in a totally new light. (Open Monday through Friday, 2 PM to 6 PM.)

3. Dejeuner sur l’herbe (“Lunch on the Grass”)

Taking a cue from Manet, hotfoot it over to the Musée Rodin Sculpture Garden at 79, rue de Varenne. The walk should take you about 45 minutes, but with the architectural underpinnings whizzing by, it will feel like fifteen.

With your Mulot sweets beside you in the Rose Garden, you’ll be able to delight your tongue while feasting your eyes on Rodin’s chocolaty bronzes and sugary marbles (a comparison that even the artist himself was aware of; he sometimes called them his “patisseries”). And all for just one euro! (Closed Mondays.)

4. Designer scarf with a cause

A lion sculpture at Église Saint-Sulpice.

A lion sculpture at Église Saint-Sulpice.

If it’s chilly out, pick up a striking red scarf at the boutique agnès b. on 6, rue Vieux- Colombier. Not only are they inexpensive (€15), but the proceeds also go to various humanitarian causes, including the fight against AIDS. Sold by designer Agnès Bourgois Troublé since 1988, you’ll find the unisex scarves (in lamb’s wool during the winter and cotton during the summertime) by the checkout register. Free gift-wrapping!

5. Heavenly rest at Saint-Sulpice

Finally, catch your breath by breaking with the lions outside the Église Saint-Sulpice before hanging with its Delacroix’s inside.

And all you DaVinci-Coders, don’t leave without walking the famous Rose Line (up near the altar). And if you’re lucky, you may be treated to the sounds of someone rehearsing on one of the finest organs in Europe, too. Talk about a moment to savor!

Cheapos, saisissez le jour! (P.S. Happy birthday, dad!)

Popularity: 6% [?]

Rome Art Walking Tour: See Caravaggio’s finest works for free

Friday, November 6th, 2009
Caravaggio on display for free at Sant’ Agostino. Photo by Gaspa.

Caravaggio's "Madonna di Loreto" on display. Photo by Gaspa.

By Samantha Collins in Rome—

There is something about Caravaggio that fascinates people. Even those who would normally prefer to cross a street of hot coals than spend time looking at paintings seem happy to make an exception for this rebel of Counter-Renaissance Art.

To celebrate Rome’s Caravaggio exhibition that has just opened at the Villa Borghese (and runs through January 24, 2010), it seemed timely to look at this bad boy of the paintbrush and take a tour around Rome to see some of his masterpieces for free!

So just who was Caravaggio?

Whilst most artists of the Middle Ages were more soft ruffles than tough scuffles, Caravaggio was not afraid of a fight, a drink, and the odd murder to boot. Commission happy, the taste of luxury did not bring out his lighter side. As well as pushing the Catholic church to the edge with his dark religious paintings, he eventually lost his temper once too often. After killing a young man who beat him in a tennis match in the Campo Dei Fiori, he fled Rome with a price on his head. He finally died in exile, never learning that he had been given a Papal Pardon.

Where can I see Caravaggio for free?

Sant’ Agostino Church
Via Sant’ Agostino

The Madonna di Loreto (painted in 1605, pictured above) is hung in the first chapel on the left. The church is close to Piazza Navona, and also includes a Raphael fresco. The church is currently under restoration, but don’t be fooled. Under the scaffolding, it is still open so you can see the paintings. For those who are pregnant (or wish to be), touch the statue of the “Madonna del Parto” near the door as you leave for luck.

San Luigi dei Francesi
Via Giustiniani

Caravaggio in San Luigi dei Francesi. Photo: Gaspa

San Luigi dei Francesi. Photo: Gaspa

In the church of San Luigi dei Francesi you get three Caravaggio paintings for free with the Matthew trilogy, including  “The Calling of Saint Matthew”, “St. Matthew and the Angels”, and “The Matrydom of Saint Matthew”. This church is close to the centre, a short walk from the Pantheon and Piazza Navona, and next to the French institute with its wonderful bookshop.

Santa Maria Del Popolo
Piazza Del Popolo

This church is about a 20-minute walk from the historic centre, or you can take the Metro Linea A to Flaminio. Here you can find two paintings, the “Conversion of St. Paul” and “The Crucifixion of St. Peter”, so well worth the journey.

Please note that many churches are closed between 1 PM - 4 PM, but usually stay open in the evening until around 7 PM.

And if I want to pay?

Well if you are at the Santa Maria del Popolo, it is just a short walk up the hill to the Galleria Borghese, and its wonderful park. Here you can see three Caravaggio works, “Sick Bacchus”, “Boy with Bag of Fruit” and “Madonna dei Palafrenieri”. Entrance will cost you €8.50 but you also get to see the amazing Bernini sculpture of “Daphne and Apollo” amongst many other treasures.

At the moment, you can also access the Caravaggio and Bacon exhibition, on through January 24. Note that for the Galleria Borghese, you need to book in advance as only a limited number are allowed in at any one time (more details here).

Lastly, you can see the “Gypsy Fortune Teller” at the Capitoline Museums, entrance fee €6.50. Don’t forget that both of these museums are included in the Roma Pass, which is a 3-day pass that gives you free access to two museums, free travel on Rome’s public transport, and discounts to other museums and attractions. The pass costs €23. (read more about the Roma Pass).

Popularity: 9% [?]

Stockholm: Ideas for short winter days and empty wallets

Thursday, November 5th, 2009
When night falls, head for Stockholm's Kulturehuset. Photo: Pineapplebun

When night falls, head for the Kulturehuset. Photo: Pineapplebun

By Marcus Cederstrom in Stockholm—

On October 25th, the clocks changed and Sweden fell back one hour. For many people around the world, this just means that it gets darker a little earlier, in Stockholm it means that on Monday the 26th Stockholmers were greeted with a sunset around 4:00 pm. The days are short in Sweden now and only getting shorter as winter approaches.

Luckily, there are plenty of things to do to keep busy, and some that will really appeal to Cheapos.

Daylight on the island of Djurgården

The city of Stockholm is built on a string of islands, which makes for beautiful sightseeing. Start your day by taking advantage of the daylight and wandering around the island of Djurgården. Walk along Strandvägen on your way to the island or take bus 47 from Central Station and get off at Djurgårdsbron.

The island itself is an amazing blend of nature and history. Several museums dot the island from the famous Vasa Museum, one of the most popular museums in Stockholm, to Waldemarsudde, a beautiful art museum, to Skansen, a living outdoor museum. For Cheapos, however, Djurgården can be enjoyed without spending a dime (or krona, in this case).

Walking around Djurgården, it’s easy to forget you are in the biggest city in Sweden. That might be because as you head east on the island you’ll be staring out towards the edge of the Stockholm archipelago. Or it could be the large National Park that runs through Stockholm and Djurgården.

The area of the National Park on the island is known as “Isbladskärret” and is a beautiful place to see the birds of Sweden, most notably the herons, which can be seen flying home to their nests as the sun sets in the spring.

Off to Kulturhuset

As the sun starts to set, (remember, the days are short during the fall and winter here in Stockholm) start heading back to the city and to Kulturhuset, (The Culture House).

Kulturhuset is located right in front of Sergels torg, the large chessboard-like square. Several bus stops in the area as well as one exit from Central Station make it hard to miss Sergels torg. Coming from Djurgården, you can either walk back along Strandvägen, or take bus 47 and get off at the Sergels torg stop.

Kulturhuset is known for its free exhibitions. Keep in mind that most of the exhibitions are closed on Mondays, and on all other days they don’t open until 11 AM. Closing times vary depending on the day of the week, so be sure to check Kulturhuset’s website if you’re unsure.

Once inside, Kulturhuset has a lot to offer. Each of the five floors has something, most of which are free. You’ll always have access to the Library for Comics and Graphic Literature on the 2nd floor, and the Kidzone on the 4th floor. Revolving photo exhibitions, film festivals, musical performances, and even literature workshops can be found on the other floors throughout the year.

After having explored the natural beauty of Stockholm, as well as the cultural offerings, relax with one of the numerous global newspapers available or befriend a local and finish your day with a game of chess. You’ll have experienced Stockholm, and done so on a budget that any Cheapo would love.

Popularity: 6% [?]

Paris Dilemma: The museum is closed for renovations. Now what?

Monday, October 19th, 2009
The Picasso Museum is closed through 2012. Photo by Madhatrk.

The Picasso Museum is closed through 2012. Photo by Madhatrk.

By Liz Webber—

As is true for museums in all cities, it’s sometimes necessary for museums in Paris to shut their doors for renovations or just to get the works back in peak condition. But what’s a Cheapo to do when that happens during your visit?

Though these three museums and museum wings may be closed for the time being, here are some ways to enjoy a similar experience in Paris.

Musée Picasso

Picasso Museum, closed through 2012. Photo by Jane VC.

Picasso Museum. Photo by Jane VC.

Due to a huge renovation project, the Musée Picasso remains closed until 2012. That’s a long time! The museum plans to host exhibits and other cultural events elsewhere, but no details are yet available.

Those looking for a Picasso fix can visit the Musée de l’Orangerie (pictured above) in the Jardin des Tuileries, which houses a dozen of the artist’s works (open every day except Tuesday from 9 AM to 6 PM). Admission costs €7.50, and is free on the first Sunday of the month.

The Centre George Pompidou also has a few Picassos in its permanent collection (open every day except Tuesday from 11 AM to 9 PM). Tickets cost €10-12, but like the Musée de l’Orangerie, admission is free on the first Sunday of the month.

It doesn’t much help Cheapos traveling to Paris, but a touring exhibit of some of the Picasso Museum’s collection is planned for several countries, kicking off at the Ateneum Art Museum in Helsinki and making stops in Moscow, St. Petersburg, Seattle, New York and San Francisco.

The Catacombs

Paris' catacombs. Photo by Adam Baker.

Paris' catacombs. Photo by Adam Baker.

As a result of a serious act of vandalism, the Paris Catacombs – a massive underground mausoleum created in the 18th Century which houses the remains of some 6 million Parisians – is currently closed indefinitely. (We’ve heard that minor vandalism has long been a problem at the Catacombs. The seemingly random pile of bones near the exit is actually a stack of the artifacts visitors have tried to take home with them.)

While not quite as spine-tingling, another quirky museum that will take you under the city streets is a tour of the Paris sewer system. The hour-long visit gives a history of the city’s water distribution and removal, including the various pumps and engines used throughout the past several hundred years. The entrance to the sewers is located across from 93 Quai d’Orsay. The museum is open Saturday to Wednesday from 11 AM to 4 PM between October 1 and April 30, and closes at 5 PM between May 1 and September 30. Tickets cost €4.30.

For a taste of the macabre, you can also can check out the Centquatre art center (104 Rue d’Aubervilliers). Tours every other Sunday at 3 PM explain its history as the city’s centralized funeral home. The tour costs €5.

The Islamic art wing at the Louvre

Beyond tourist pleasers like the Mona Lisa and Venus de Milo, the Louvre has an excellent collection of Egyptian and Near Eastern artifacts. Part of that includes an extensive display of Islamic art, which unfortunately remains off limits to the public until construction of its new home is completed in 2010. The new wing has been called “the most radical architectural addition since Pei’s glass pyramid.”

In the meantime, visitors can enjoy an exhibition of Islamic art at the Institute of the Arab World, which features manuscripts, tapestries, glassware and ceramics, jewelry and mosaics from Muslim nations across the globe. The Institute is located at 1 Rue des Fossés Saint-Bernard. The expo is open Tuesday, Wednesday and Friday from 10 AM to 6 PM; Thursday until 10 PM; and weekends and bank holidays until 8 PM. Admission to the exhibition, which runs through March 14, 2010, costs €10.50. For an extra freebie, head up to the roof for a great view of the city.

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Paris: Underground artists go mainstream at 59Rivoli

Monday, September 21st, 2009
A mural inside 59Rivoli. Photo by Liz Webber.

A mural inside 59Rivoli. Photo by Liz Webber.

By Liz Webber in Paris—

Back in Picasso’s day, many Paris artists took up residence in a tenement in Montmartre called “Le Bateau-Lavoir.” More recently, cash-strapped artistes have resorted to squatting in abandoned buildings, in search of a cheap place to live or work.

What happens when someone comes in to kick out the squatters? In the case of 59Rivoli, the French government took over and eventually gave the building back to the artists.

Happily for art lovers, the location officially reopened to the public at the beginning of September 2009, offering free entry to the artists’ world.

Renovating the “aftersquat”

In 1999, the artists who squatted at 59 Rue de Rivoli had to sneak into the building through a window in the back. Then the government bought the building in 2002, and after pouring in 5.5 million euros in renovations, reestablished the space as an artists’ workshop.

Since the building is no longer technically a “squat,” it has been dubbed an “aftersquat.” Some critics complain the concept has been sanitized, but it still gives the artists a chance to work while exposing their creations to the public.

Discovering the art

The building’s six floors house 30 ateliers; 20 belong to the original artists’ collective, while the remaining 10 will be opened to invited artists on a temporary basis. The official announcement of the reopening states that visitors will not be permitted to visit the work spaces, but when this Cheapo visited, the workshops were open for viewing.

Year-round, 59Rivoli will host exhibitions featuring a particular artist or group. Upcoming expos include one devoted to South American artists from October 27 to November 8, 2009 and “Femininity and Others” from November 25 to December 6, 2009.

59Rivoli is open Tuesday through Sunday from 1 PM to 8 PM, with an opening time of 11 AM on Saturday. It is located, unsurprisingly, at 59 rue de Rivoli. Metro: Châtelet.

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