A Deutsche Bahn train in Berlin's main station. Photo by hidden europe.

By Nicky Gardner and Susanne Kries—

Okay, we’ve said it before, but we’ll gladly say it again. Have Cheapos realised just how much rail fares in Europe can vary according to where you purchase your tickets?

We took a day out from our regular work with hidden europe magazine last week and conjured up a tempting palette of trips criss-crossing the continent. And then we compared the ticket prices on a national rail website (that of the Deutsche Bahn) with the prices offered for those journeys by rail ticketing agents based in Britain and North America. We took care to ensure that the tickets we purchased were in every case for exactly the same trains.

So a straight comparison, comparing like-with-like. Same class of travel, same comfy seat, same scenery slipping by outside the window – for all five routes in our basket of European rail trips.

The five routes we tested

1. Berlin to London single (by day, depart after 9:00 AM, any route) on September 3: one adult, 2nd class.
2. Amsterdam to Salzburg single (by day, no more than one change of train) on July 14: one adult, 1st class.
3. London to Cologne via Brussels single (depart at 8:00 AM or later) on September 10: one adult, 2nd class.
4. Berlin to Zagreb single via Hamburg (2 night stop) and Munich (2 night stop) on August 20: one adult, any class.
5. Nuremberg to Dresden same day return (direct trains only) on June 20 for a family of five, 2nd class.

For each of these five journeys, we thought that the German Railways (viz. Deutsche Bahn) website at www.bahn.de would offer some reasonable fare advice, and so it did. Indeed, all five journeys could be booked online through their website.

Then we turned to agents selling rail tickets in North America and Britain to get quotes for precisely the same journeys. This was done first by online research, often followed up by telephone calls to check precise details.

The results

And guess what? The leading agencies specializing in European rail tickets always charged at least twice as much as would the Deutsche Bahn for exactly the same journey.

The key point here is that in most of Europe, rail operators have a whole raft of special promotional fares that massively undercut the regular tariffs (often with discount of more than 80% on the standard fare). But agents rarely offer those discounted fares, preferring to safeguard their hefty commission fees by selling only the full fare.

Comparing the fares

Now take a look at how those fares compared. Listed below are the Deutsche Bahn (DB) fares that were available for purchase around midday of Friday, June 12, 2009 followed by the cheapest fare quoted the same day by a leading North American or British agent (all sterling and dollar fares have been converted to euros just to make things clearer).

1. Berlin to London (2nd class) DB: €49 / Agent Fare: €209
2. Amsterdam to Salzburg (1st class) DB: €79 / Agent Fare: €255
3. London to Cologne (2nd class) DB: €49 / Agent Fare: €106
4. Berlin to Zagreb with stops in Hamburg and Munich (2nd class) DB: €29 / Agent Fare: €322
5. Nuremberg to Dresden day return for family of 5 (2nd class) DB: €37 / Agent Fare: €705

Helpful advice?

We found one leading British agent who was extremely helpful on the phone, going to some lengths to suggest that for certain routes it might be wiser to get the tickets from a German source (but declining to give the specific name of the company or website).

A well-known North American agent emphasized that their dollar fares on offer would undercut anything we might purchase in Europe – a claim which is patently undermined by the results of our survey. The North American agent suggested that a rail pass might be a better bet for some of our journeys, and hinted that we would encounter a range of problems if we attempted to purchase directly from the Deutsche Bahn website.

Booking tickets in advance

The reality is that booking train tickets on www.bahn.de is pretty easy, even without a knowledge of German. The site has a decent English language interface, though in some instances you will find additional functionality on the German language website.

Also, it really helps to have a good knowledge of European patterns of service and railway geography. A good place to start is by studying the latest edition of the Thomas Cook European Rail Timetable and the same company’s Rail Map of Europe.

Booking well in advance is often the key to finding cheap fares, but our research found that plenty of discounted promotional fares are still available for travel this summer. And we did not cast around trying to dig up the cheapest possible travel dates, having fixed our palette of routes and travel dates before embarking on our research. If you would like the see the full results of our survey, just click here.

And, oh yes, just in case you were wondering, we were paid not a cent by the Deutsche Bahn to publish this!

About the authors: Susanne Kries and Nicky Gardner are regular contributors to EuroCheapo and together edit hidden europe magazine. They live in Berlin.

Popularity: 40% [?]

Ralph Bakshi’s “Fritz the Cat” in action, courtesy of Anima ‘09

It’s well known that Brussels is a go-to when it comes to cartoons, comic strips, and animation. One need only browse the halls of the infamous Belgian Comic Strip Center to see that loveable characters like Tintin were first given life here.

Now in its 28th year, the Belgian Anima 2009 Festival, hosted in Brussels, is a huge draw for tourists, comic art professionals, and fans of animated characters and films. The event kicks off February 20th with a costume contest (come dressed as your favorite character!) and runs through February 28th.

‘Toon in!

Highlights of this year’s fest include screenings of top-notch film favorites like Wallace and Gromit, The Smurfs, and Pinocchio (which will be airing once during the week in French and at another time in Dutch). American films are screened in English with French subtitles.

New this year, Academy Award nominees like Waltz with Bashir and Wall-E, as well as a tribute to the creator of Fritz the Cat, Ralph Bakshi, plus a master class with Pixar guru Kyle Balda.

Comical details

The festival takes place in the beautiful neighborhood known as Ixelles (south of Brussels’ city center). See our hotel recommendations here.

If you plan to see more than a few flicks, we recommend going for the five-ticket billet. It costs €25 (that’s €10 cheaper than if you buy separate tickets at a cost of €7 per screening).

Groups and students under 26-years, as well as children under the age of 16, also receive special discounts.

For more information, including transportation and screening times, visit: www.animafestival.be

Popularity: 13% [?]

This year, there are a number of Oscar-nominated films that take place in Europe. Here are some of our favorites:

-In Bruges (Bruges, Belgium): We saw this film just as we were putting the finishing touches on our Cheapo guide to Bruges. Now, while we weren’t huge fans of the plot - or the script - we always enjoy a flick that makes a city more than just a background, but more like an additional character. The gratuitous canal scenes were great, and of course, it doesn’t hurt to watch Colin Farrell do anything, especially in a storybook town.

-The Reader (Berlin, Germany): We read the book first and were blown away. The movie’s high intensity takes place mostly in post World War II Germany, namely Berlin. Though it’s hard to exactly enjoy a harsh, morality tale, the film is beautiful and it’s truly fascinating to see Hollywood’s depiction of things like post-war train cars (Hanna Schmitz, Kate Winslet’s character, plays a ticket taker).  Hamburg-born David Kross, who plays Hanna’s lover, is a delightful newcomer to the Hollywood film scene. The musical score is breathtaking, composed and arranged by 26-year-old  Nico Muhly, a prodigy of Philip Glass, and a resident of New York City.

-Vicky Christina Barcelona (Barcelona, Spain): If you haven’t seen this film, rent it now! We saw it twice. Penelope Cruz is nominated for her role as the hot tempered Maria Elena (fabulous!). You’ll love the requisite scenes in Gaudi’s Parc Guell. And, if you’ve ever studied abroad, well, let’s just say there are a few inside jokes.

-The Duchess, (London, and more far-flung England): This is what you call a good ol’ fashioned British costume drama! It doesn’t hurt, however, that the acting is spot on (!) and, for romantics, the story is moving and enthralling. Though most of the film takes place in the English countryside - Devonshire to be exact - there are some terrific period scenes in London, circa the late 1700s.

-Happy-Go-Lucky, (London): So, we’d venture to say we were the only people who didn’t really like Mike Leigh’s acclaimed Happy-Go-Lucky. (Side note: Does this mean we want to hurt puppies and small kittens? Some of our friends think so.) What we did like about this flick was that it rendered a realistic portrait of London, the gritty city. We were drawn in watching Sally Hawkins bike through busy streets and a gray landscape, and loved all those great pub scenes.

-The Class (Paris, France): Though we haven’t seen this one yet, a few French friends have recommended it saying it’s, “a highly moving portrait” of middle school students and their determined teacher. Apparently, much of the movie is unscripted too making it a work of astounding improvisation.

-Revanche, (Vienna, and the Austrian countryside): We are excited to see Revanche when it comes to our local Brooklyn theater in a few weeks. It promises bank robberies, seedy scandals, and much more. It’s this year’s official entry from Austria and is up for Best Foreign Language film. Fun fact: Screenwriter Götz Spielmann grew up in Vienna.

Will you be watching the 81st Annual Academy Awards? Do you host an Oscar party? Tell us here.

Oh, and don’t forget the popcorn!

Popularity: 17% [?]

Fired up! Ready to go! Photo courtesy of an agent

Yes, we did!

On Tuesday, January 20th, 2009, Barack Obama will be sworn is as the 44th U.S. President and the world will be watching!

We’ve put together a list of places hosting inaugural day events in Europe.

As we said on Friday, the inauguration should be available in high-def at many locations, so if a bar or cafe has a television and gets satellite cable, you should be able to check in on the Washington, D.C. action.

As usual, let us know if you still need to find a place to watch the event.

Signed, sealed, delivered - again!

In Paris: The American Church in Paris hosts a prayer service at 7:30 PM followed by a viewing of the inauguration (one hour behind the live events) and a wine and cheese reception. Stop by and you might just see our Ed-in-Chief Tom Meyers! More info is here. You can also email Arlene Gross, the coordinator of the event, at arlbru2004@yahoo.com

For more ideas on where to hang your hat on inauguration day, check out this great forum on the Fodor’s Paris site. Other ideas include the Havane Cafe, at 70 Bis, Boulevard Auguste Blanqui (near Place d’Italie).

UPDATED: There’s an event at Carr’s Irish Restaurant and Bar (1 Rue du Mont Thabor). It begins at 4:30. The venue promises live coverage from CNN, via two large screen television sets. For further information, visit their web site.

In addition, a group of Democrats Abroad folks will gather to watch the inauguration at The Highlander pub (8 rue Nevers, across from the Pont Neuf).

Finally, if you really want to get your Obama-yes-we-can-can groove on, start out with the group of revelers organizing an event at Le Queenie (5, rue de Berri) for drinks, conversation, and to watch the inauguration. Then, head over to Queen nightclub (102, Avenue Champs Elysees). For info and to RSVP, email obama.obamaparisinauguration.p@gmail.com  

Note: According to the Paris Expat Meetup group, the American Library also has inauguration events planned. More info here.

In Berlin: Our friends over at BootsnAll first broke the news that Berlin would be partying down on inauguration eve. As they so aptly reminded us, it was Mr. Obama himself who said, “People of Berlin, people of the world, this is our moment. This is our time.” Rock on! Head to Goya Nightclub for an evening of celebration or head to the Amerika Haus, where they’ve been celebrating Black History month for weeks already. Check out what they have planned here.

In Salzburg: An event is planned at the Hotel Stein (Giselakai 3-5). All are welcome, including children, but RSVPs are a must. Go here for more info. You can also contact Contact Mary Ann Balko-Koch at 0664 59 23 408.

In Vienna: There’s a big event planned at the Badeschiff (Donau canal between Schwedenplatz and the Urania in Vienna’s first district). The official invite can be downloaded here.  Live jazz music wil be provided. There’s a €5 optional donation. The reservation process officially closed on January 16th, but we recommend still trying to get in. Email: events@democratsabroad.at for more info.

In Brussels: There’s an event at the Hilton Brussels (38, Boulevard De Waterloo). Reservations are required. Email chair-be@democratsabroad.orgby today for info and to reserve your spot.

In London: A host of events are planned in Her Majesty’s great city. For a list of a bunch of them, visit Time Out London’s web site. Might we recommend the “Bye George” comedy celebration at the Southbank Centre on the evening before Obama takes office? By George, now that’s a pleasant thought!

For a real down-home feel, check out what the Chicago Rib Shack has planned. Just for the record, this is exactly where the other resident Cheapos would be if on the other side of the pond next week! They’re in Knightsbridge, near Harrods. For more info, email info@thechicagoribshack.co.uk

In Amsterdam: One of our favorite places to catch great entertainment and share laughs, Boom Chicago, has lots of fun stuff on the docket Tuesday night. Get in the mood earlier with a comedy show called, “Bye Bye Bush!”. For more information on the inaugural fest, go here.

UPDATED: If you’re in the Groningen area, head over to Wijkcentrum Het Floreshuis for pizza and revelry. Events start at 5 p.m. and the food and drinks are cheaply priced. More info: demsfungroningen@gmail.com

Also, check out the Democrats Abroad Netherlands site for up-to-date celebration info.

In St. Petersburg: Fellow Cheapo “Liz” suggests trying the folks at the Grand Hotel Europe, where events are planned. Contact: desk.concierge@grandhoteleurope.com

In Barcelona: This comes courtesy of ‘toshmon’ who commented via our earlier inauguration blog post.

“For Barcelona, information from http://www.amersoc.com/

“When: January 20th from 5 pm to 11 pm (entry at 4:30 pm)
Where: Le Meridien Hotel, C/ La Rambla, 111
Price: 15 euros
What’s included: Live coverage of the swearing-in ceremony on a big screen tv, live music, tapas, beer, wine, soft drinks.

“Make sure to RSVP to admin@amersoc.com and stop by Hotel Le Meridien to pick up your tickets in advance to avoid standing in line at the registration desk on day of the event.”

Thanks for posting ‘toshmon’!

In Granada: Democrats Abroad group will be convening at Paddy’s Irish Pub (on calle Santa Escolastica). Further directions to the venue, info, and more are available here.   The event begins at 4 p.m. and doors open at 3 p.m.

In Athens: The Democrats Abroad hosts an event at the Hardrock Cafe (18, Filellinon). Contact is Alexis Vasilakopoulou (ph: 210 325 2758). For more information, visit the event’s site.

In Madrid: The Hotel Intercontinental offers an event hosted by Democrats Abroad Madrid. The event is private, meaning you must RSVP, but all are welcome and entrance is free of charge. The hotel is at Paseo de la Castellana 49. More details here.

If you’re interested in a more fancy affair, check out this gala event that’s planned in Madrid.

In Rome: We were only able to track down information for the Democrats Abroad event at the Radisson SAS hotel. As of press time on Friday, the event was full. Please comment here if you’re in Rome and know of other events. Thanks!

In Milan: There’s an event at the Fiori Oscuri Bistrot (Via Fiori Oscuri 3, in Brera). All are welcome and there’s no entrance fee. Free copies of the International Herald Tribune will be distributed. For more information, contact Maria Lassila (maria.lassila@gmail.com).

Other suggestions: Check out sites like Democratic Underground, your city’s local Expat Meetup site, or Democrats Abroad for ideas.

Where will you be?

Tell us where you plan to watch the inauguration. Please include city, venue, and relevant contact info. Thanks!

And, go Obama!

Popularity: 25% [?]

Photo of a lace display in Bruges, courtesy of LinksmanJD

You simply can’t leave Bruges without strolling along the canals, stopping at a chocolate shop, and of course, paying tribute to the ancient tradition of lacemaking.

Tracing lace

Many believe that the history of lace can be traced to Egyptian times, but the material was likely first made popular in Europe by Flemish artisans in Bruges and Ghent, Belgium. It is said that Joan of Navarre, the wife of King Philip IV (France), arrived in Bruges in 1300 and was smitten with the intricate designs of local lace merchants’ wares. She soon brought the fashion back to France.

A taste for lace

A must-see in Bruges is the Lace Center, Kantcentrum (Peperstraat 3-A; entrance next to Jerusalem Church), where tourists can attend lacemaking workshops, browse exhibits on the history of lace in Belgium, and then buy souvenir accoutrements - in the form of doilies, handkerchiefs, and even wine cozies - from the gift shop. Keep in mind, the lacemaking demonstrations are in the afternoon only and take place in the on-site ‘open lace atelier’ (sounds fancy!).

A typical take-home item from the museum boutique will run you between €9 and €30. A postcard, depicting the complicated craft, or a lace design or pattern, is €1.50. Objects from local and family-run lace boutiques will run you about the same amount as in the Lace Center’s shop, and sometimes much more for larger pieces.

<
Photo of a lacemaker in Bruges, courtesy of Arnie J

While you’re at it…

Head over to ‘The Face of Lace‘, a comprehensive exhibit of the craft and its long-reaching influence, at various exhibits held at five museums in Bruges. The exposition runs through March 1, 2009. Participating fashion boutiques in the Bruges’ city center also offer displays related to the exhibit. An audio guide, to be used at all museums, is available for €1. You can buy one combo ticket for all five museum exhibit entrances for €15.

And, be sure to check out all the random lacemakers who usually station themselves outside their shops, performing demonstrations, and sometimes even offering a free swag of fabric.

Also, see our list of recommended hotels in Bruges, Belgium.

Popularity: 11% [?]

A royal turkey spread, photo courtesy of RoadsidePictures

Sometimes you just can’t make it back to grandma’s house for Thanksgiving because you live (or are traveling) far, far away.

While a few Cheapos in our office were living in London the year before last, they had an admittedly hard time thinking about family back home, gathered around a table of carved turkey (or turducken), their aunt’s famous green bean casserole, and - especially - mom’s super-human homemade pecan pie.

Cue the drool!

Initially, these Cheapos thought about hosting a Thanksgiving feast at their flat, but didn’t find much in the way of Thanksgiving at Marks & Spencer. Instead, a restaurant in Notting Hill proved to be the right treat. The Cheapos gorged along with a packed house of other friendly American expats and had a happy, festive time.

While it could never be as good as grandma’s cooking, it sure tasted close to home. And while this year we’re all able to celebrate Thanksgiving with family, we thought it’d be helpful to round up a few suggestions for Americans abroad:

Paris
Join the Meetup Expats in Paris group for Thanksgiving dinner at Le Saint-Martin in the 10th arrondissement. Full details here.

Prague
Head over to the Radisson SAS Alcron Hotel and join the AARO (Association of American Residents Overseas) for a Thanksgiving meal. More information can be found here.

Brussels
A group of expats in Brussels will meet at the Sheraton Hotel, Place Rogier, for a meal on Thursday evening. Check out the American Club of Brussels calendar for more info.

London
If you plan to get meditative on turkey day, might we suggest the annual Thanksgiving service at St. Paul’s Cathedral. Folks in the local expat meetup group here meet at the cafe across the street first, to break bread beforehand.

Barcelona
The American Society of Barcelona hosts an annual dinner. This year, the event happens at the Hotel Arts (Pau Casals Room, Marina 19-21). Learn more here.

Rome
Friends in Rome hosts an event at Le Bain (Via delle Botteghe Oscure, 33). Reservations are required. To prepare for feasting, go here.

Budapest
Head over to the Budapest Marriott Hotel (Apáczai Csere János u. 4.) for a full spread. You can register when you get there. Or, try this guy; he’s willing to cook for your whole family!

OK Cheapos, now it’s your turn. Where will you be eating your European turkey and stuffin’ this Thanksgiving eve? Leave us a note here and we’ll pass it on.

Popularity: 19% [?]

Almost every visitor to Brussels finds themselves at some point standing and smiling at the city’s famous “Manneken Pis” statue, which depicts a youngster cheerfully peeing into a fountain basin.  

Cheapo-friendly Manneken Pis memorabilia flood the streets of Brussels. While large statues can be expensive and too heavy to carry, smaller and cheaper versions are easy to pack and will likely provide plenty of laughs for the folks back home. With a little hunting, you might also find some freebies…

Let’s hear it for the little squirt

In the case of the Manneken Pis, toilet humor is historically justified. There are several legends about the meaning of the statue, most of which involve a small boy urinating on armies attacking Brussels and thus saving the day.

This bronze statue was cast in 1619 by sculptor Jerome Duquesnoy and is located at the corner of Rue de l’Étuve & Eikstraat, very near the Grand Place. Needless to say, the fountain is one of the city’s most famous attractions.

Replicas and pee-themed souvenirs are celebrated city-wide. Entire stores are devoted to M.P. memorabilia. Some of our favorite items include:

• Manneken Pis Belgian white beer
• Manneken Pis butane lighter
• Manneken Pis postcards depicting the boy in various costumes
• Manneken Pis shot glass
• Manneken Pis corkscrew

You can preview these souvenirs above, but know that you’ll be able to find cheaper versions from street vendors or shops in town.

While you’re at it…

If you find yourself eating some of those famous Belgian fries or waffles, check out the napkins. You might find depictions of the Manneken Pis you can take home for free.

Also see: our recommended budget hotels in Brussels.

Popularity: 13% [?]

A reception set up in the ruins of St. Donatian’s Church, now a Crowne Plaza. Photo by the Crowne Plaza Hotel.

For nearly one thousand years a massive stone church sat on Bruges’ Burg square. It was destroyed about 200 years ago, but parts of it remain today under a Crowne Plaza Hotel and can be visited for free.

Bruges’ Underground Church

Back around 900 AD, the city built a fort to protect itself from pesky Vikings who were raiding the city. Not long after, the very large and central St. Donatian’s Church was built on top of the fort and remained a place of worship until Napoleon ripped it down in 1799. Soon after, parts of the church were auctioned off.

Jump ahead to 1982, when the city’s Crowne Plaza Hotel was built on the site of St. Donatian’s. During the construction and excavation process, parts of the ancient fort’s foundations were discovered. Structures from the church were also uncovered, including the choir gallery, which was excavated in 1988.

The hotel has converted the basement into conference and reception rooms, lined by the ancient walls, and lit with a touch of drama. They’ve also put on display various relics unearthed in the area, many of which belonged to the church. Paintings show St. Donatian’s in all its glory.

Touring St. Donatian’s

As long as there isn’t a conference in session, visitors can tour the ruins simply by asking at the Crowne Plaza’s front desk.

When we visited recently, a nice porter led us downstairs and turned on the lights. We checked out the ancient walls, drawings, and other relics. Granted, the fresh carpeting, new ceiling, and conference tables can detract from the history on display, but just turn your attention to those walls!

Also see: Our recommended budget hotels in Bruges.

Popularity: 11% [?]

Photo by Frank Dhooghe

We bet “sun” and “sand” are two words you don’t readily associate with Brussels, but an afternoon at the city’s free “beach” will change that. Each summer in the city of chocolate and comic strips, from mid-July to mid-August, a stretch of the Rue de la Dyle (north of the city center) is converted into a virtual beach. 

And, like the best beaches, Brussels’ waterside resort is completely free. City officials affectionately refer to the sandy oasis, stretched out along one of the city’s canals, as Bruxelles les Bains (Brussels Spa), or “an urban beach scene.”

Just what makes for such a scene? Well, after tons of sand are dumped onto the street, free outdoor concerts abound (check out the drums in the photo above), as well as ”beachy” activities like volleyball, group yoga, and ultimate Frisbee. Street vendors provide inexpensive food and drink.

Bruxelles Les Bains is open from 11a.m. to 10 p.m. daily, except Mondays. The beach stays open an hour later on Friday and Saturday nights. The summer spectacle is within walking distance of both the Ribaucourt and Yser metro stops and is located at Place Sainctelette at the Quai des Peniches.

The whole experience is just like a day at the shore except that when you’re done, you can hit up the Grand Place or check out a local museum.  So, nab a spot on the fresh sand, lay back, and catch some rays.

Stay tuned, Cheapos, as we travel to Budapest tomorrow and lend you more free tips!

Popularity: 10% [?]

Cheapo newsflash! We’ve just launched a brand spankin’ new city guide and budget hotel primer for Brussels, Belgium! Turns out, you can sleep cheap in the land of waffles, beer, and all those bandes dessinées.

Our guide includes articles on transportation in and around Brussels, reviews of 27 centrally-located hotels, and more. Stay tuned as we’ll be adding more stuff soon. In the meantime, we hope you’ll enjoy getting to know the city of diplomats, bankers, cartoons, chocolate, and a little guy Belgians like to call Manneken Pis.   

As usual, let us know what you think!   

Popularity: 9% [?]