The view from the top: Peeking into Parliament

As the official seat of the German Parliament, the Reichstag building in Berlin affords you (at no cost!) one of the best views of the city from its famous dome and roof terrace.

Quick history of the Reichstag

The Reichstag was built in 1894 and housed the Parliament until a fire destroyed it in 1933. Consensus has it that the blaze was started by the Nazis in an attempt to stomp out Communism, cut back on civil liberties, and usher in totalitarian rule. Today, the Reichstag celebrates openness and transparency: Visitors climb a dome atop the Parliamentary chamber, and can look down at their legislators in action. How things have changed!

Visiting the Reichstag

While guided tours of the Reichstag can be set up in advance (see comments section below for more info), we recommend nabbing a Berliner (as we did… thanks Hilary!) or taking advantage of the free explanatory brochure, available just past security.

Once in, you’ll take a quick elevator ride to the top of the building, inside the dome. Snap photos of the dome and its surroundings, and start working your way up the dome’s interior ramp, reading the historical explanations along the way. If you grabbed the free brochure downstairs, it’s a helpful guide to the 360-degree city view from the dome’s top. (So, that’s where the new train station is!) 

And of course, don’t forget to turn around, away from the city, and look down into the Parliament. (See photo above.) If you’re visiting at night, of course, you may only catch sight of some cleaning personnel.

When to visit the Reichstag

First of all, the Reichstag is extremely popular with tourists, foreign and German-born. The building holds profound historical significance, and is on nearly every first-time visitor’s agenda. Therefore, expect to wait. A line stretches outside the Reichstag and down into a grassy field. Wait times can be hefty, especially during the day, so we’ve found it’s nice to visit at night, when crowds are smaller.  (The building stays open until midnight, although the last entry is at 10 PM.)

More information

Check out the Bundestag (German Parliament) web site for details and opening times.

Also, review our list of more free things to do in Berlin.

You can also try this great step-by-step guide available from DK Travel.

Stick with us, Cheapos, and stay tuned for more free tips tomorrow. Next stop? Bratislava!

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Nicky Gardner and Susanne Kries of hidden europe magazine report for EuroCheapo on the pleasures and value of European night trains:

Do you know Tczew? Perhaps not. It’s an unexciting sort of spot. Poland, top right, more or less. We had never imagined that we might enjoy a leisurely breakfast of caviar, crackers, and coffee at Tczew. Sitting in a Russian railway carriage, which lingered for an hour or two in Tczew. Waiting for a connection perhaps? Who knows. Night trains are like that.

The pleasures of the night train

Night trains are extraordinary. They rattle past factories and canals, disturb the deer that graze at the forest edge in the evening. In the wee small hours of the night, they screech round sharp curves in some foreign town. A listless child stirs in her sleep in a house next to the railway tracks, while last night’s unwashed crockery trembles on the scullery table. And then the train is gone, an emissary from another world, and silence returns to the unnamed town. Night trains get to places that other trains never reach.

Night trains are the stuff of poetry, but they can also be extraordinarily good value. There is something undeniably civilized about being able to sip a good malt whisky in the evening, as the night train from London to the Scottish Highlands weaves its way out through the northern suburbs of the metropolis. Supper on the train and then to bed in crisp clean linen to awake in the morning as the train climbs up onto Rannoch Moor. Book well in advance, choose the right day, and you can even travel from London to the Scottish Highlands for £l9 (yes, that’s less than $40).

Germany’s new night trains

The Deutsche Bahn, Germany’s national rail network, capitalizes on its location bang in the middle of Europe to run the continent’s most extensive network of night train services. Revamped for the 2008 season, the trains are quiet, comfortable and often a great value. Trains head from Copenhagen or Prague to Basel in Switzerland, from Amsterdam to Milan or Vienna, and dozens of other connections across Europe.

The comfort of the night train is a quiet retort to the frenzy of modern air travel. They’re also an antidote to the breakneck speed of the fastest daytime express trains. Why not try one next time you visit Europe?

Booking a night train

“Special fares apply” says the admonition in the Thomas Cook European Rail Timetable, a monthly publication that is the bible for all savvy rail travelers in Europe. That might imply hefty surcharges. But no, night trains are often cheaper than daytime services. From Switzerland to Denmark overnight in a couchette from just €49 cannot be matched by any discount airline or day train. Choose carefully, and you can travel overnight between European cities in a comfortable sleeping berth for €69.

Most European night trains use a global price system with one all-in charge covering both the train fare and the fee for on-board accommodation. Holders of Eurail and other passes don’t often secure great advantage. The best value all-in fares that Europeans buy locally may cost little more than the supplements that pass holders must pay to secure a couchette or bed. It’s a market which rewards travelers who book well in advance, committing them to traveling on a specific day. Find out more about German night trains, now marketed under the “City Night Line” banner, at www.nachtzugreise.de.

This article is the second of a guest series of summer postings by the editors of hidden europe magazine. Check out the magazine for regular features on European rail travel.

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The lovely Galerie Gerken in Berlin Mitte

In the mid-1990s, many Berlin artists moved from the west side of the city to Auguststrasse in East Berlin. Auguststrasse, sometimes referred to as “East Berlin’s art mile,” today hosts some of the city’s most creative minds, and the Mitte gallery scene has become a haven for international talent. Spread out among the area’s hip boutiques, Mitte’s art galleries showcase Berlin’s multicultural flare—and in one of its most happening neighborhoods.

And here’s the best part, Cheapos: The galleries are free to the public! As an alternative to costly museum-going, consider gallery hopping.

Here are five Mitte galleries to get you started, all within walking distance of each other:

Galerie Gerken
Auguststrasse, 49

Not far from the lively Hackescher Markt, Galerie Gerken provides a forum for interdisciplinary art. Expect an eclectic mix of painting, sculpture, and video installations from both German and international artists.

Galerie Dittmar
Auguststrasse, 22

Though Peter Dittmar divides his time between Germany, Indonesia, and Australia, his gallery offers quality photography and painting exhibits throughout the year. Works by artists such as sculptor Gerhard Trieb and painter Fritz Klemm reflect the modern aesthetic of German architecture.

DAM Berlin
Tucholskystrasse, 37

Since 1998, DAM has showcased the cutting-edge in digital media. Artists incorporate math, science, and technology into hi-tech installations and paintings. Look for work by well-known painter Vera Molnar, who incorporates computer imaging and geometry to generate striking linear designs.

DNA Galerie
Auguststrasse, 20

DNA is home to some of the international artists who helped give Berlin its ethnically diverse appeal. Nezaket Ekici, a performance artist from Turkey, appears in a series of often hilarious video installations. Other DNA artists include Bulgarian videographer Mariana Vassileva and Japanese photographer Tatsumi Orimoto.

Rossella Junck Galerie
Auguststrasse, 28

Here you’ll find “altmodisch” (vintage) collages, provocative glass sculptures, and whimsical photography. Gallery owner Rossella Junck serves up a quirky mix of up-and-coming and more established artists.

…and more

Plus, don’t forget: Berlin has an extensive underground art scene, too. When you visit the galleries, look for flyers advertising upcoming events. (For example, live performance art at the Alexanderplatz U-Bahn always draws a large crowd.)

And don’t forget the Berlin Wall East Side Gallery. Though not a traditional “gallery” and not located in Mitte, the open-air exhibit includes work by artists like Keith Haring. The gallery spans 1.3 km of the original Berlin Wall and features murals by 106 artists, comprising an “International Memorial for Freedom.”

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You were all ears yesterday, Cheapos, when we announced our latest “Mystery photo contest.” And, you took the bunny bait right away (it occurs to us that maybe our clue was a bit too easy to nibble on). Thanks to all who wrote in with answers.

David Anderson, a Cheapo out in Minnesota, was the first to determine that the funny bunnies were indeed sipping joe in Berlin, Germany.

It seems they were all part of a lastminute.com promotion (see bunny with logo tee above). We never quite figured out, however, what the inflatable sax was all about.

Recognize the big needle in the background?

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Berlin is one city where your euros can still pack a punch. And, perhaps even more importantly, it’s also full of art, history, sausage, and frei stuff to do.

Here are six of our favorite freebies in the German capital:

The Reichstag

The official seat of the German Parliament, the Reichstag affords you (at no cost!) one of the best views of the city from its famous dome and roof terrace. Wait times can be hefty, so we’ve found it’s best to visit at night (the building stays open until midnight, although the last entry is at 10 PM). Take a quick elevator ride to the top and snap a bunch of photos. A free brochure, available as you enter the building, offers a pictorial guide to the Berlin skyline. (So, that’s the new train station!)

Brandenburg Gate

This majestic gate, called “the trademark of Berlin” by the local authorities, was built by King Wilhelm II in 1788. The Gate has seen a lot. It has survived conquests, bombings, and oppressive regimes. The monument sits at the end of the mighty Unter den Linden, and has recently received a city-sponsored cleaning. We think the best time to view this beauty is at night, when its majesty shines under soft lights.

Checkpoint Charlie

Checkpoint Charlie, the name for the passport control for visitors going between East and West Berlin, is today a major tourist draw. There’s no charge for hanging out next to the original booth once manned by Soviet and American soldiers. Located along busy Friederichstrasse, today guards smile, pose for photos, and answer questions from tourists. Across the street, several creative vendors charge €5 for a “legitimate” stamp for your passport. Ah yes, nostalgia… (Watch out for the Segueways—see photo above.)

The Wall

There are two good spots to see what’s left of the infamous Berlin Wall. The East Side Gallery (in Kreuzberg), where artists like Keith Herring have painted over old pieces of the Wall as part of a public exhibit, is the cheerier of the two locations. This part of the Wall bursts with color, celebrates freedom and shows off the graffiti talents of many Berliners and friends of Berliners. For a more somber and realistic take on the Wall, visit the piece that’s still up near the Topography of Terror exhibit (below), in Mitte near Checkpoint Charlie.

Topography of Terror

OK, it sounds ominous (and well, it is), but this exhibit—in Mitte—is one of the most comprehensive one-stop shops for facing the magnitude of World War II, Berlin’s role in it, and the Holocaust. Placards with black and white photos show Hitler’s rise to power, the resurrection of the Wall, and many more key historical moments. Explanations and timelines accompany the photos and follow a clear path that leads you parallel to old S.S. Nazi police baracks. It’s a tad creepy, if you really let your mind go there. But, well worth a visit.

The Holocaust Memorial

The newly-opened “Monument to the Murdered Jews in Europe,” designed by architect Peter Eisenman, opened in 2005 and consists of 2,711 concrete slabs arranged on sloping ground. Walking through the enormous memorial can be somber, disorienting, and dizzying. An underground information center is open daily (except Monday). The outdoor monument is open and free to the public at all times.

Cheap eats

Berlin is full of cheap eats. You can hardly walk down the street without bumping into a bargain-priced doner-kabap. In any case, save a couple of euros for a good currywurst and Beck’s beer at the end of the day. You’ll need a breather after a day of intense sightseeing.

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We are unapologetically fond of German cafeteria food. When visiting the German capital, we always stop for a sampling of local cuisine at one of the state-run (and subsidized) Mensa cafeterias, where a nourishing lunch may be enjoyed for just a few euros.

Although Mensa cafeterias are commonly found on campus at German universities and packed with healthy, athletically-inclined students, the dining halls are open to the public, and you’ll often find yourself dining alongside area businessmen and women. For the adventurous tourist, the cafeterias offer a unique and budget-friendly opportunity to get a taste of the real Deutschland.

Cafeteria food is, mildly put, not everyone’s culinary preference. But we enjoy it and embrace it for all of its qualities – healthy portions, light seasonings, regimented serving procedures, and unwavering value.

How the Mensa works

Most Mensa cafeterias require that you purchase a “MensaCard” onto which you can load – and reload – cash. These cards are for sale in the checkout lines for €1.55. Once you have procured a card, take it to the loading machine, where you insert money and load it up. At some cafeterias, you may also pay with cash, but you shouldn’t count on this.

Please note: Do not continue with your Mensa adventure until after you have fully loaded your card. The cashier can’t load up your card for you. Bad and embarrassing things could happen.

Your card activated, head into the cafeteria. Look for a big sign listing the day’s options (sometimes with illustrations), and note that most cafeterias offer daily options that are vegetarian, vegan, and “bio-essen” (organic). If you don’t speak or read German, it’s a pretty safe bet that you can ask any student around you for translation help. (“Schwein,” by the way, is “pork.” You’ll be seeing that.)

We usually head for the longest line, as it gives us a chance to survey the choices being dished up, and to overhear the ordering and practice our vocabulary. (English will probably not work on the women working behind the serving counter – but a smile and pointed finger usually does the trick.) Once your main entrée and side have been handed to you, slide down to the salad cabinet, and then head to the beverage dispenser. So many wholesome beverages are yours – milk, apple juice, orange juice, vitamin punch (Note: We’re still not quite sure what’s in the vitamin punch, but it does pack one)!

Now that your tray is filled with nourishing vittles, head to a checkout lane and be prepared to hand over your new Mensa card. If you’re a student, show your student ID before the clerk rings you up, as your prices will be markedly lower.

Our favorite Mensa cafeterias in central Berlin

In Mitte:
Mensa Nord
Reinhardtstrasse 30
Editors pick for dining in Mitte, north of Unter den Linden.
Monday – Friday, 9 AM to 3 PM

Near Alexanderplatz:
Mensa Spandaur Strasse
Spandauer Str. 1
Monday – Friday, 8:30 AM – 3 PM

Near Gendarmenmarkt:
Mensa Charlottenstrasse
Charlottenstrasse 55
Pop into this one when heading south of Unter den Linden or shopping on Friedrichstrasse.
Monday – Friday, 8:30 AM – 3 PM

Near Nollendorfplatz:
Mensa Kurfurstenstrasse
Kurfürstenstraße 141
Monday through Friday 8:30 AM – 2:30 PM

See also:

List of all Mensa cafeterias
More Mensa information in English, including menus!

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It’s a sunny Friday here in NYC, but in France and Germany, commuter moods are clouded with continued rail strikes. Here’s the latest:

France

The rail strike entered its third day on Friday. The BBC reports a slight increase in the number of trains and metros running across the country, and a significant decrease in the number of workers participating in the strike.

Only 200 of 700 TGV trains across the country are running.

In Paris, the Metro is running with delays, although two lines are not running at all. One third of the city’s buses are not running.

Rail workers voted to continue the strike over the weekend, although support seems to be thinning.

Germany

On Friday, the second day of passenger rail strikes has affected millions of commuters’ journeys. 3,000 workers have walked out since the strike began.

The BBC reports that suburban and inter-city transportation is hit the hardest, with most intra-city transportation systems running smoothly.

The strike is set to end at 1 AM Saturday morning. The union, however, is threatening to strike again over Christmas and New Years holidays if conditions aren’t met.

We wish our friends and fellow Cheapos in France and Germany good luck with their commutes. See you on Monday!

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Photo by FloSchMUC

Berlin’s public transportation system covers a lot of ground across a very spread-out city. Cheapos need never pay full price to use the system, as there are a number of discounts available. For visitors, there is the WelcomeCard, which offers unlimited travel in Berlin, plus a book of coupons for discounts to museums, tours, bike rentals, etc.

The WelcomeCard is available for 48 hours for €16 or for 72 hours for €21. Another good deal: the City tour Card Premium, which is available for €39.90 for 72 hours and offers free entry to museums and other attractions in Berlin, as well as a free trip up the TV tower.

Probably the best deal is the City Tour Card. It’s available for €14.90 for 48 hours or €19.90 for 72 hours, and offering discounts of up to 50 percent off Berlin attractions. Download the list of discount partners from the Berlin public transportation system site and plan ahead.

If you are in a group and you travel as a pack, make sure you take advantage of the small group ticket. This allows up to five people to travel on the same ticket until 3 a.m. the following morning. It costs only €15.40 for zones A and B and can be purchased at automatic ticket machines.

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Photo by mompl

State communism may have gone its way in East Berlin, but the workers of the world can still get fed at the Schwarze Pumpe (Black Pump) in Mitte.

The décor, featuring exposed pipes and wooden tables, is stylishly retro-factory canteen. The food is fresh, simple and cheap; the menu features daily specials such as goulash with salad and potatoes for €7—or a delicious cheese spätzle and salad for €6. Stop in anytime from breakfast to dinner and commune with the common man.

Schwarze Pumpe is located at Choriner Strasse 76. Telephone: +49 30 449 69 39.

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Photo by Jennifer Sokolowsky

Sometimes you want to go where everybody knows your name. For English speakers in Berlin, that would be Hairy Mary’s, which opened last fall in a cellar space near Kollwitzplatz. The bar has the feel of a friend’s living room.

The proprietors, Mark from Glasgow and Laura from Minnesota, offer a warm welcome, well-priced drinks, and occasional live-band nights and special-event parties. Better catch them quickly, though. Hairy Mary’s is a yearlong project for the couple and they will shut its doors in September. Hairy Mary’s is located at Diedenhoferstrasse 5 in Prenzlauer Berg and is open every night (barring Sunday) after 9 p.m.

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