By Pete Meyers—

Today we’re happy to welcome Pauline Frommer to our “Four Cheapo Questions” interview series.

Pauline is a one-stop shop for budget travel insight and advice, offering tips for “spending less and seeing more” on Frommers.com and in her “Pauline Frommer” guidebook series. In addition to her travel writing and editing, Pauline hosts a nationally syndicated radio show, makes frequent appearances on national TV, and is a regular speaker at travel events, sometimes alongside her father, Arthur Frommer.

1. Tell us about your travels. How often do you travel? Where are you heading to next?

Well, I just spent the last week going over my travel receipts for my taxes and discovered that in 2009, I was on the road for part or all of every month except September. I guess that’s pretty standard for me. My next trip is to Guatemala!

2. That’s a pretty busy schedule! Can you tell us a bit about yourself, your guidebook series, and your radio show?

Yes, I’m always busy, but in a good way. I think it was Justice Sandra Day O’Conner who said that the key to happiness is finding work worth doing. Though I would never claim to have had as much of an impact as she has (for better and for worse, I might add), I do have work that I love, and that I hope helps would-be travelers.

I’m the founder and managing editor of the Pauline Frommer guidebooks. We now have 14 in the series, from “Pauline Frommer’s Paris” to “Pauline Frommer’s Costa Rica” to “Pauline Frommer’s Italy“. (You can see the complete list at www.frommers.com/pauline.) Most are now in their second editions; I wrote four of the guides and edited the other 10.

The Pauline Frommer guides have the tagline: Spend Less, See More. And that’s what they’re all about: doing budget travel but in a smart way. They’re for travelers who want to save loads of money when they travel, but do so without sacrificing comfort. So while we do list hostels, we’re more likely to give people ideas about alternative accommodations such as farm stays, private B&B’s (where you stay in a local’s apartment and pay for a private room what you’d usually pay at a hostel), condo rentals, etc. We have the largest focus and have done the most research on alternative accommodations than any of the mainstream travel publications. Of course, we also talk extensively about affordable eating options, transportation, sightseeing, etc.

3. We dig the focus on alternative accommodations. What else sets your guidebooks apart from the others out there?

We also differ from the other series in a section we feature called “The Other.” This will be either a chapter or a section of a chapter on experiences one can have when traveling that allow the visitor to experience the country as the locals do.

So we’ll tell you about a great roving party that takes place in NYC (sometimes on the subways; people bring boom boxes onto a train after midnight and everyone dances). In Hawaii, we’ll alert you to opportunities to help scientists with the yearly whale count or with the sea turtles that nest there (this usually will take just a day from your vacation). In Las Vegas, we tell you how you can audit a class for dealers for an hour or two (it’s fascinating to watch them learn how to take gamblers) or attend a magicians “karaoke” night at a local bar, where they try out their tricks on one another. We’ll also tell you about chefs in Paris who hold small cooking classes in their homes; and the cafes in the City of Light, where you can attend a philosophical evening, as locals gather to discuss life’s great questions (in English), while quaffing wine.

These are just a few examples, but it’s a section of these guidebooks that have really struck a chord among our users.

4. What’s the best budget travel advice you’ve ever received?

I’m not sure if I “received” this, but I guess the advice I’d give from my long years of traveling is to never be shy about saving money. Often getting a discount simply means asking for one, or seeing if changing your travel plans slightly will garner you a discount.

Saving money is all about doing your research (so you know what the possibilities are for savings), being pushy (in a polite way!) and being flexible.

Bonus round! What are you most willing to splurge on when exploring a new city?

I guess my go-to splurge is on admission charges. I once had a writer I was editing tell me he hadn’t gone to a very well-known historic house because he was so disgusted by the entrance charge. I immediately replaced him (we needed that write up!). But I also didn’t like his attitude, which I thought was penny-wise and pound foolish. While I’d never splurge on a hotel, I think seeing great works of art or architecture are definitely worth paying a bit extra for.

Final question: What’s the best meal you’ve had for under €15 and where was it?

Can one count many, many scoops of gelato as a meal? If so, I’d recommend La Palma in Rome. If not, I’d have to say the wonderful liver and onion tacos I had recently in Mexico City, which cost about $2 total for the complete meal. Sorry that’s not in Europe, but that’s what’s on my mind right now.

Oh, and I also had an AMAZING pizza at DiMatteo in Naples. For the pie, we paid about $8, if I’m remembering correctly, but that fed my whole family (2 adults, 2 kids).

Thanks for taking the time to talk to us, Pauline! We’ll be taking a special look at “The Other” sections when we check out your upcoming editions. We wish we had known about the wine-and-philosophy chat during our last trip to Paris. Alas, there’s always next year… Happy travels!

Popularity: 3% [?]

We love London. We love to stroll through Borough Market; we love to browse through antique doodads on Portobello Road; we love the many gardens and plentiful greenery; and we certainly love a good Sunday roast.

But if there’s one thing about London we wouldn’t mind changing, it’s the cost. Alas, the city that brought us J.M. Barrie and Virginia Woolf can also bring prohibitively high prices to travelers who don’t mind the wallet gap.

But fear not, Cheapos, there are many ways to save during your next trip to London. We’ve included many within our London city guide, but also want to hear about your budget tips for saving pounds.

How do you do London on the cheap?

Do you have a favorite, Cheapo way to get into the city from Heathrow? Do you have special tips for where to eat, drink, and be merry? Are there particular discounts you’ve used in the past you’d like to share?

Leave a great tip… and win an “NFT London”!

Share your best London budget tip in the comments field. It can be about food, transportation, cheap sleeps, going out, or anything else! As a special incentive, we’ll select our three favorite tips to receive a copy of the newly-released “Not For Tourists Guide to London 2010” to take with you on your next visit!

Good luck, Cheapos. Now talk to us!

Popularity: 5% [?]

The "Therapy" room at Propeller Island City. Photo by Sterin.

By Sarah Silbert—

We were pleased when a copy of Bed in a Tree, published by Eyewitness Travel, came across our desk the other day. Flipping through, we couldn’t decide which magnificently unusual hotel we liked best.

The book, written by Bettina Kowalewski, surveys 27 of the world’s most unique accommodations, from giant wine barrel guestrooms in Germany’s Rhine Valley to elegant canopy beds atop an ancient tree in the South African wilderness. Each hotel description is complemented by pages of stunning photos and tips on what to do in the hotels’ locales.

Most of Kowalewski’s picks are located in lesser-known (and more interesting) destinations, and they all clearly demonstrate how hotels can be so much more than a place to sleep. While many of the hotels aren’t Cheapo-friendly (hello, $590 a night Ice Hotel in Norrbotten, Sweden!), Kowalewski thankfully includes a few budget-friendly spots.

Here are five unique sleeps featured in the book that are easy on the budget:

Capsule Hotel
Located on a canal in The Hague, though the exact location changes.
www.capsulehotel.info

The Capsule Hotel in The Hague, the Netherlands, caught our eye with its two James Bond-inspired oil rig pod rooms furnished with beds made of fisherman’s net and sheepskin rugs. (Rooms are even outfitted with karaoke machines!) It would be quite a ride to spend the night bobbing up and down on the water.
Nightly rates: €70-150

Propeller Island City
Albrecht Achilles Strasse 58
Berlin, Germany 10709
www.propeller-island.com

As long-time fans of Berlin’s many art hotels, we loved the book’s photos of the 27-room Propeller Island City, located in the German capital. Each room boasts a wildly different theme—you could sleep in a coffin (with air holes, of course), or bask in the light of the “Therapy” room’s multicolored fluorescent lamps. While we’re not sure we’re brave enough to stay in one of the hotel’s wonderfully outrageous rooms, we think it would be a blast to visit.
Nightly rates: €70-190

Pension Kamerichs
Ditzroder Weg 18
Bad Laasphe, Germany 57334
www.pension-kamerichs.de

Pension Kamerichs, located in Westphalia, Germany, is a B&B—minus the roof. The “room” consists of a white iron bed on a pretty green lawn, plus a nightstand and a chair. Sure, there’s not much privacy—though the lawn humorously boasts a door frame, but the prospect of sleeping out in the fresh air sounds pretty appealing. Marie-Luise Kamerichs, the enthusiastic proprietor, provides old-fashioned nightclothes for the guests (as demonstrated in several funny photos in the book), and breakfast is included.
Nightly rates: €35

Park Plane Hotel
Woodlyn Park
Waitomo, New Zealand
www.woodlynpark.co.nz

Waitomo, New Zealand’s Woodlyn Park Plane Hotel provides guestrooms on a 1940s Bristol B-170. The plane has plenty of history, having once carried military personnel into Thailand and Hong Kong. The rooms pictured look considerably more comfortable than economy class fold-back seats, and the cockpit unit, complete with the switches and knobs of the control panel, offers an especially unique stay. The hotel’s owner also runs a converted train wagon hotel, a Hobbit Motel, and a World War II patrol boat hotel.
Nightly rates: $85-95

A "roulotte" in La Serve. Photo by Wolf_H.

Les Roulottes de La Serve
69860 Ouroux
Rhône-Alpes, France
www.lesroulottes.com

Les Roulottes de La Serve, located in the beautiful Rhône-Alpes region of southwestern France, offers accommodation in the form of three converted roulettes, or “gypsy wagons.” Each of the three guestrooms boasts a different, dazzling décor, from Asian-inspired artwork in the Roulette des Étoiles to the rustic décor in the Roulette de Manège. The pastoral French location, combined with the novelty of sleeping in a caravan that has roamed the country, has us craving a night in any of these wagons.
Nightly rates: €50-60

About the book: “Bed in a Tree,” by Bettina Kowalewski, was published in September 2009 by Eyewitness Travel. The book also includes vouchers for a 10% discount at 15 of the 27 selected hotels. The book retails for $25.

Popularity: 10% [?]

A train in Görlitz, Germany on one of the routes featured in the book.

By Nicky Gardner and Susanne Kries in Berlin—

What train routes might make it into a list of Europe’s greatest train journeys?

The book that inspires us to ask this question is published next month by Time Out Guides Ltd. Great Train Journeys of the World is edited by Andrew Eames who pulled together a team of leading luminaries on rail travel to write the book. (Full disclosure: Andrew was good enough to ask us to contribute prose and images for a number of routes across Europe.)

The routes: Classic long-distance and branch lines

Europe makes a good showing in this global compendium of journeys worth making. Of course the book includes many classic itineraries such as the Trans-Siberian and the posh tourist train Orient Express. But the joy of the volume is the neat way in which unexpected tiddlers are pushed into the limelight. For example, the book includes a rural run through the Cévennes area of southern France, a branch line that crisscrosses the border between Germany and Poland, a rural route in Catalunya, and a line that cuts through the heart of the Bosnian countryside.

This is not just a book for train buffs. It is pitched at the general reader who is looking for hints about journeys that might be worth taking. Some cutting-edge European express trains are celebrated for their speed, such as the Eurostar link from London to Paris, Germany’s ICE services, the TGV in France and the AVE routes in Spain.

But the lure of Europe’s greatest rail journeys is not generally in their speed, but in the way that trains trundle through the countryside both by day and by night. The book has a little Hungarian rhapsody in an account of a 12-hour journey by day that takes in four European capitals, and a Highland fling with a super essay on the Caledonian Sleeper night train from London to the Scottish Highlands.

A firm favorite: the Caledonian Sleeper to Fort William

Editor Andrew Eames comments in the book that the night train from London to Fort William in Scotland (often dubbed “The Deerstalker”) was the service that every one of the two dozen authors really wanted to write about - no matter how many times they had taken the train before. In the end, Eames himself wrote about that particular journey.

Bargain berths, too

Rail travel on some of Europe’s classic rail routes need not be impossibly expensive. Some of the journeys in the book are brief and cost no more than a few euros. And bargain berths on that overnight train to the Scottish Highlands can still be booked for dates later in 2009 for as little as 39 pounds sterling - all inclusive in the comfort of a sleeping car with crisp linen sheets.

Susanne Kries and Nicky Gardner are based in Berlin and write regularly for EuroCheapo. They contributed to “Great Train Journeys of the World” with articles and pics on rail routes in central Europe and Scandinavia. Nicky and Susanne are editors of hidden europe magazine, about which you can find out more on www.hiddeneurope.co.uk.

Popularity: 7% [?]

A section of the East Side Gallery in Berlin. Photos by Campru.

Berlin—Critic and curator Emilie Trice writes, “Berlin is the graffiti mecca of the urban art world.” And a recent New York Times article confirms Trice’s assertion with the observation that “The city’s skyline might be defined by a Sputnik-era TV tower, bombed-out churches and the ghost of a certain wall that once split the German capital. But its streetscape is largely molded by graffiti.”

It is therefore unsurprising that the city’s art landscape includes a number of galleries exclusively showing street art. Overkill Shop, Circle Culture, and Intoxicated Demons are a few choice examples of galleries specializing in bringing street art inside. And recent super-successful shows by celebrated local street artists such as EVOL and Jaybo Aka Monk demonstrate the commercial viability of street art for international collectors.

A graffiti guide

Street art in Berlin.

But for everyone interested in just appreciating the work in its natural habitat, there is a new book by graphic designer Benjamin Wolbergs, “Urban Illustration Berlin: Street Art Cityguide.” The book makes the perfect guide for a walking tour through Berlin’s outdoor street art scene.

Written in both German and English, the book offers exclusive interviews with seventeen of the elusive artists. Wolbergs does not limit his focus to spray paint. Instead, he gives attention to the rich range of stencils, cutouts, markers and wheatpaste works across the city.

Wolbergs’ stunning street photography in “Urban Illustration Berlin: Street Art Cityguide,” along with the interviews’ insight into the artists’ working techniques, motives, and philosophies on street art, make the book a valuable purchase, regardless of whether one is planning a visit to Berlin.

A self-guided graffiti walking tour

However, the book’s real treasure is a tear-out city map detailing the locations of 500 iconic and admired instances of Berlin’s street art featured in the book. Tear it out and take yourself on a walking tour.

Street art is fragile. And a few of the works Wolbergs spotlighted no longer exist. But the neighborhoods remain active areas for street artists and well worth visiting for anyone interested in the origins of Berlin’s vibrant international art scene.

Popularity: 14% [?]

Castel Sant'Angelo and Bernini's angels. Photos by Sav D'Souza

By Sav D’Souza in Rome—

The release of the movie “Angels and Demons” is set to do for Rome what “The Da Vinci Code” did for Paris—bring a lot more Dan Brown fans to town! But while Rome is currently afire with pricey ”Angels and Demons”-inspired guided tours, you can visit most of the sights featured in the film for free.

Here are six sights, featured in the film, that are easy to get to and free to visit:

Bernini's "Ecstacy."

1. The Ecstasy of St. Teresa

This provocative sculpture by Bernini holds court in the Santa Maria della Vittoria church. Works by Bernini are featured prominently in ”Angels and Demons,” and throughout Rome, where it’s hard to imagine the cityscape without the indelible mark of the painter, sculptor, and architect.

Where to go: Church of Santa Maria della Vittoria. Just off Via Nazionale.

"Fountain of Four Rivers" by Bernini.

2. Fountain of Four Rivers
 
The striking and imposing “Fontana dei Quattro Fiumi,” sculpted in 1651 by Bernini, is the setting for a scene in which Dr Langdon (played by Tom Hanks) saves a cardinal from drowning. The fountain is an excellent example of the dramatic flourishes of the “High Baroque” period. Toss a penny in the fountain and make a wish for good luck.

Where to go: The fountain is located in the center of Piazza Navona, in the heart of Rome.

3. Chigi Chapel

The Chigi Chapel was designed by Renaissance painter and architect Raphael, although it was finished in 1520, nearly a hundred years after his death, by Bernini. The chapel is tucked inside the Santa Maria del Popolo church in Piazza del Popolo. The Chigi Chapel houses the famous Chigi pyramidal wall tomb, and the Bernini sculpture ”Habakkuk and the Angel,” which factors into Brown’s book.

Where to go: Santa Maria del Popolo church in Piazza del Popolo (Metro Flaminio)

Raphael's tomb in the Pantheon.

4. Pantheon
 
The Pantheon, that wonder of ancient architecture, is referred to as the “oldest church in Rome” by Dr. Langdon in “Angels and Demons.” Constructed in 125 AD, the Pantheon was originally dedicated to the worship of all gods, or “pan theos.” In 609, the building was consecrated as a Christian church by Pope Boniface IV. Today, the Pantheon represents the best-preserved ancient building in Rome, and is filled with sculptures, tombs (including Raphael’s), and incredibly-preserved details.

Where to go: Piazza della Rotunda. Open daily, admission free.

5. Ponte and Castel Sant’Angelo

The magnificent Ponte Sant’Angelo (pictured above), constructed in 136 AD by Emperor Hadrian, leads travelers past its Bernini sculptures over the Tiber River and to the Castel Sant’Angelo and Vatican City.

The Castel Sant’Angelo is an imposing sight, and was built by Hadrian as a tomb for himself, his family, and subsequent Emperors. The building has been used for many purposes since, including a fortress, castle, and today, museum. The Castel plays a crucial part in “Angels and Demons.”

Where to go: Take bus #40 from Termini to Castel Sant’Angelo

St. Peter's Square

6. St. Peter’s Square

The dramatic first murder in “Angels and Demons” takes place in St. Peter’s Square, crowded with visitors.

The square, located directly in front of St. Peter’s Basilica, is another of Bernini’s Roman masterpieces, designed to give the faithful a massive gathering space where every visitor could see the Pope and receive his blessing.

The square, replete with colonnade and obelisk, was constructed between 1656 and 1667, and can accommodate more than 300,000 people.

Where to go: Bus 40 or 64, or Metro Ottaviano.

About the author: Sav D’Souza is a freelance journalist currently based in Rome. He has worked as a journalist in Hawaii, Prague, and London and contributed features to the Guardian, Daily Telegraph, SA Sports Illustrated, Prague Post and CNBC Europe. He is a demon pool player, enjoys a round of golf, playing poker, and the occasional gin and tonic.

Popularity: 12% [?]

If you’ve been following the career of Arthur Frommer—guidebook pioneer, magazine founder, and budget travel personality—you’ve probably noted his daily travel musings on his blog, “Arthur Frommer Online.” Since launching it last year, Frommer has penned more than 1,000 posts that cover a vast array of subjects, from new travel sites to censorship in Dubai.

“Ask Arthur Frommer: And Travel Better, Cheaper, Smarter,” published in March by Wiley Publishing ($19.99), reworks the most helpful of these dispatches into a 512-page budget travel encyclopedia. Flipping through the book is a trip in itself, and reading the book from cover to cover is sure to be an education in the art of budget travel.

Art lessons

“Ask Arthur Frommer” offers up Art’s tips-of-the-trade in an easy-to-follow structure. Throughout, Frommer pushes the idea that technology has changed the way we travel, granting us new-found independence, flexibility, and opportunity to see the world.

Frommer clusters his advice by topic, in sections such as ”Airfare,” “Cheap hotels,” and “Transportation.” We were happy to note the attention he pays to less mainstream destinations (hello, Riga!) and his suggestion to open up to “alternative lodgings” like hostels. (Full disclosure: We were also quite happy to see references to both EuroCheapo and our sister site, EuropeanHostels.com on his blog and in this book.)

It’s well worth noting that while Frommer has been around the globe (his landmark book, “Europe on 5 Dollars a Day,” debuted in 1957), he’s no technophobe when it comes to his travel know-how. At 80, he’s still an active traveler, and frequently writes about emerging technologies, new travel trends, airfare comparison sites, and travel meta-search engine.

Our fave Art encounters?

We really enjoyed passages where Art goes “off the keyboard” and gets truly expressive, even controversial, about the mainstream travel media.  He isn’t afraid to berate publications that kowtow to the luxury travel trade, and he names names. He’s also had it with out-of-touch editors defining “budget travel” as $250-a-night boutique hotels and (even more expensive) resorts. Go Art! 

Throughout his career, Frommer has pushed his readers to do their own research, find real deals, and get closer to the cultures they visit. This book, compiling a half-century of real budget-travel advice, is a wonderful way to get started. 

Have you read this book? Have a comment? Post it below.

Popularity: 5% [?]

The Albert Cuyp Market in Amsterdam. Photo by Tierecke.

Amy K. Goemans— 

What’s the easiest way to soak up the culture while shopping and sightseeing? Dropping by charming street markets, of course! Amsterdam is famous for its street shopping, where both locals and tourists browse for great deals.

Here is a brief list of our favorite street markets in Amsterdam.

Food and more: Albert Cuyp Market

Albert Cuyp Market, one of the largest daily markets in Netherlands, is the kind of place where locals do their bargain hunting, which makes it a perfect place to mix-and-mingle. Located in the southern De Pijp neighborhood, the market offers assorted goods at affordable prices.

Although the market sells all types of goods (including clothing, cosmetics, and books), it tends to focus on food. That makes it a great spot to drop by for fruits, vegetables and spices, or even ready-to-eat snacks (good to pick up before dashing off to your next stop). The market is ideal for trying out various foods from a wide variety of cultures.

Tip: Keep an eye out for both funny-shaped chocolates and colorful wigs!

Address: Albert Cuypstraat/Ferdinand Bolstraat, 1073 BL, Amsterdam
Opening Hours: Mon – Sat (9:30 am - 5 pm)
Website: http://www.albertcuypmarkt.com/

Book market: Oudemanhuispoort

Oudemanhuispoort book market. Photo by Terretta.

In the end, your luggage will creak in protest, but how can you resist bargain hunting for books?

The Oudemainhuispoort book market is well-known among book worms. The market offers a decent collection of books, most of which are second-hand. I love book markets like this, as they’re excellent sources for older titles and prices tend to be very reasonable.

There is, however, an interesting Benelux-region twist on book markets, given the region’s thriving comic book culture. At book markets like the Oudemainhuispoort, you’ll come across delightful comic collectibles. In addition to the well-known American comic books, European series like the Smurfs, Asterix and Tintin abound. So, if you’re shopping for comic books in Amsterdam (and they do make great souvenirs!), you’ll find the lowest prices here.

Address: Oude Manhuispoort, 1012 CN, Amsterdam
Opening Hours: Mon – Sat (9:00 am – 5:00 pm)

Antiques: De Looier

Looier Antique Market. Photo by Bemanischa.

Rather than pick up souvenirs at tacky souvenir shops, I prefer busy antique markets like the Looier. I find these markets perfect for picking out gifts or little trinkets for older family members. Most pieces boast fine craftsmanship and exquisite designs, two attributes that make up the ideal gift.

At the Looier, you can find a wide range of antiques, including delicate items like glassware and crystals, delightful ornaments, toys, collectibles and vintage goods, and even fine paintings and photographs. Prices, unsurprisingly, can vary from the remarkably low to the painfully high. However, with a little hunting, you can find some real bargains, especially during the weekend and on Wednesdays, when the market offers lower-priced items.

Address: Elandsgracht 109, 1016 TT, Amsterdam
Phone Number: 020-624 9038
Opening Hours: Every day, except Friday (11:00 am – 5:00 pm)
Website: http://www.looier.nl/

Popularity: 10% [?]

Who can resist French art books? Photos by Theadora Brack.

By Théadora Brack in Paris—

Oops, I did it again.

I attended an exposition’s “vernissage” (literally, the “varnishing”—how the French refer to a preview or opening of an art show), and became smitten with the show and its fine-looking catalog. Obsession activated. Hit hard, and a post card just wouldn’t do.

But, how can I get an art catalogue on the cheap? Walk this way!

1. Check out that rack of glossies!

Most museum shops sell “les albums de l’exposition” (guides, magazines, and portfolios). Published by Beaux Arts Magazine, Connaissance des Arts, Le Figaro, or the museum itself, these slim gems are usually prominently displayed, lightweight and affordable, costing just €2 to €10. Chockfull of visuals with punch, they’ll satisfy your head, pocketbook and suitcase. Translated versions are often available, too.

Books on sale!

2. Crack Da Chintzy code

La Boutique du Musée du Louvre not only carries current and back issues of “albums de l’exposition” (see above), but also discounts catalogs from its previous expositions by up to 60% off their original cost!

Other museums like the Centre Pompidou, Musée Carnavalet, and The Palais de Tokyo also slash art catalogue prices throughout the year. Recently at the Musée Galliera (museum of fashion), I purchased the Madame Carven catalogue for just €12, marked down from €30. Memorize one of my favorite French words, “soldes” (“on sale”), and you too will start spotting bargains everywhere. (As Anaïs Nin wrote, “We don’t see things as they are. We see things as we are.”)

3. Ch-ching at Fuh-nack!

Even my French friends were surprised to learn that Fnac (pronounced “fuh-nack”), the largest French entertainment retail chain, discounts its inventory of books. This includes the latest catalogues from current blockbuster shows, like Le Grande Monde d’Andy Warhol at the Grand Palais, Kadinsky at the Centre Pompidou, the David LaChapelle Retrospective at the Musée de la Monnaie, and Valadon et Utrillo at La Pinacothèque!

Fnac is a bustling combination of Barnes & Noble, Best Buy, Staples, and Ticketmaster. With everything from laptops and DVDs to French comic books and concert tickets, it’s one-stop shopping. You can also pick up museum admission tickets.

4. Flâneur-tastique! That’s how we stroll.

I’ve been known to spend entire days in the aisles of Mona Lisait Librairies. Although this funky bookstore chain that specializes in new and used art books has shops scattered all over Paris, its Marais location at 17bis rue Pavée (Metro: St Paul) is closest to my heart. Its creaky wooden floorboards, uneven brick flooring, tinny classical music, helpful staff, and free gift-wrapping all add up to real atmosphere.

Another favorite is at Place Joachim du Bellay, not far from the Centre Pompidou. Each of the seven locations has its own charm, and definitely worth a visit. (By the way, “Mona lisait” means “Mona was reading.”)

The "Librarie du Passage."

For another take on the arts, go meet the artists or at least their wax replicas at the Musée Grévin (Paris Wax Museum). Then visit the Librairie du Passage just a few feet away at 39 and 48 Passage Jouffroy (near Grand Boulevard–pictured above). Open since 1846, it’s in one of Paris’ classic 19th-century shopping arcades. Rumor has it that Victor Hugo, a renowned bargain hound, got his Cheapo on at this very shop. 

6. Mosey on to Glory

Here I weep. At La librairie de l’Avenue in the middle of Clignancourt Flea Market (Métros: Garibaldi or Porte de Clignancourt), the angels sing on high from a little CD player located just below the cashier’s desk. The sweet smell of coffee and frankincense tickles the nose.

This large but still intimate bookshop is well stocked with new and used art books, catalogues, vintage prints and antique magazines. Deciding exactly where to start my quest is the only glitch I encounter here as I make my way though the narrow labyrinth of floor to ceiling bookshelves, stocked with discounted books that have been meticulously organized by category, author or genre.

7. Don’t forget to look in the ‘hood

Neighborhood bookstores (”librairies”) all over the city occasionally stock and discount catalogues from current and past expositions. The handsome books are usually displayed in the windows.

How to find out about current art expositions in Paris

Pariscope: Invest 40 cents in a copy of Pariscope, available at any newsstand or kiosk. The pocket-sized weekly listings magazine covers the week’s happenings from theatre, cinema and arts, to music and restaurants. It hits the stands on Wednesdays.

An important note on pronunciation:

You risk raising a few bemused eyebrows if you ask for directions to an “exhibition.” “Exhibitions” (with an “h”) are peep shows—which is fine, if that’s the sort of display you’re after. However, if you’re looking for art, give that word a “p”–“exposition”!

Tell us. Do you have a favorite bookstore in Paris? Tell us below.

About the author and photographer: Theadora Brack is a writer working in Paris. Her fiction has appeared in more than 30 literary publications, including 3AM International, The Smoking Poet, Beloit Fiction Journal, Mid-American Review, and the Haight-Ashbury Literary Journal.

Popularity: 9% [?]

Paris' Hotel de Ville. Photo by Liz Webber.

By Liz Webber in Paris—

When you’re vacationing, a trip to city hall probably isn’t high on your list of things to do (unless you were visiting San Francisco circa 2004). But this is Paris, and city hall is the magnificent Hôtel de Ville. Moreover, it’s a place where you’ll find fascinating exhibitions on French culture – all of them free.

Learn more about the French for free

For a country so content on keeping its culture, language, and food “pure,” exhibits at the Hôtel de Ville do sometimes stretch the notion of French culture. Last summer saw a tribute to Grace Kelly, princess of Monaco, while another previous expo showcased a day in the life of a rugby player and spectator (rugby is a surprisingly popular sport in France).

One current exhibit is devoted to Le Petit Nicolas, a beloved character from French children’s comics for the past 50 years. Pages from Nicolas stories are hung up on the walls, along with commentary from writer René Goscinny and illustrator Jean-Jacques Sempé. Though the scenes are all in French, it is the French of a child and easily understood.

Children visiting the “Petit Nicolas” expo are given an activity book and a pencil so they can draw their own pictures of Nicolas. Even if you know nothing about Le Petit Nicolas, you’re bound to enjoy this lighthearted look at life through a child’s eyes. This exhibit is on now until May 7, 2009; opening hours are 10 AM to 7 PM every day except Sundays and holidays.

Memories from Overseas and The Magician of Iron

Because one expo wasn’t enough, two more opened April 1, 2009 under the title “Memoire d’outre-mer” (outre-mer refers to French territories overseas). One is a series of photographs, documents and personal belongings related to the nearly 70,000 people from Antilles who migrated to French cities in the 1960s-1980s. The other consists of a massive wall with a list of the names of slaves liberated from French colonies in 1848.

Both can be viewed through April 25, from 10 AM to 7 PM. The exhibit is closed April 6-7, April 13 and on Sundays.

Next up is “Gustave Eiffel le magicien du fer”, a tribute to the architect of Paris’s best-known landmark, the Eiffel Tower, currently celebrating its 120th anniversary. The exhibit will run from May 7 to August 31, 2009.

Consolation prize

With the Hôtel de Ville’s central location near Châtelet and the Georges Pompidou Center, there’s no excuse for not visiting. You could easily make it part of a day to Notre Dame or the Marais.

And if you can’t make it to Paris, check out this virtual tour of the Hôtel de Ville.

About the author: Liz Webber is a freelance journalist living and working in Paris. She has previously worked for the International Herald Tribune and Budget Travel.

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