Paris Cheap Eats: Beyond baguettes at the boulangerie

Monday, June 15th, 2009
Lunchtime at a boulangerie in the Marais. Photo by Tom Meyers.

Lunchtime at a boulangerie in the Marais. Photo by Tom Meyers.

By Liz Webber in Paris—

For many people, living in Paris (or just visiting) conjures up visions of buying fresh baguettes and croissants every morning at the local “boulangerie.” But those delightful bakeries offer so much more than breakfast breads! They can also serve as a Cheapo-friendly lunchtime resource!

Here’s our guide to the boulangerie’s ”other” baked goods, thinking beyond the baguette…

So many quiches. So little thyme. Photo by Yisris.

So many quiches. So little thyme. Photo by Yisris.

More “pain,” all gain

First off, there is much more to French bread (“pain”) than the baguette.

I’m a bit partial to the “tradition,” which is much softer than a baguette and tastes a little like sourdough. There are also “boules,” or round breads, and most boulangeries now offer whole-grain options. You’ll be hard-pressed to find any loaf of French bread that costs more than €2.

Similarly, it’s time to branch out from the standard croissant. Go for broke on the calorie-meter with a “pain au chocolat”, often mistakenly called a “chocolate croissant” in the U.S. (The word “croissant” implies a crescent shape, whereas a “pain au chocolat” tends to be somewhat square.)

Though not as extensive as a “patisserie” (a bakery that specializes in pastries), boulangeries offer a full range of “tartes” and other small pastries to satisfy your sweet tooth.

Baguette sanwiches on display. Photo by Yesris.

Baguette sandwiches on display. Photo by Yesris.

Lunch to go: Baguette sandwiches, quiches, and more

The boulangerie is a great place to pick up a quick lunch to eat on the go or bring to a picnic.

Small baguette sandwiches are reasonably-priced (around €3-4). A “jambon buerre” (ham with butter) is a pretty standard French option, although you’ll also find sandwiches with “thon” (tuna), “poulet” (chicken), “ouef” (egg), and more.  When the shopkeeper asks if you’d like your sandwich “avec salade,” she wants to know if you’d like one with lettuce and tomato or just the meat.

Other lunch options range from quiche to mini pizza to “croque monsieur” (a ham sandwich with cheese baked on the outside), depending on the bakery.

Formule: Make the most of your lunch money

Most boulangeries offer a “formule,” a lunch special that includes a sandwich, a dessert, and a drink. The price depends on the location and sometimes on the type of sandwich you order. Expect to pay between €5-7 for the meal.

As with all shops in France, the majority of boulangeries will be closed on Sundays, except for in highly touristed areas. If you do find a boulangerie you like open on Sunday, odds are it will be closed if you try to return on Monday.

Tell us!

Do you have a favorite boulangerie in Paris? Or a French bread product you just can’t live without? Tell us about it in the comments section.

Popularity: 12% [?]

Barcelona Food: Five cheap eats under €6

Thursday, May 28th, 2009

 

A typical meal at Buenas Migas Foccaceria, Photo by Ian Kershaw

Typical fare at Buenas Migas Focacceria; photo by Ian Kershaw

By Regina W. Bryan in Barcelona—

If you’re a foodie, Barcelona can get spendy. To add insult to injury, it also has the unfortunate reputation of offering overpriced, mediocre meals. While there are some fantastic Michelin starred restaurants in the city, Cheapos in need of good grub require other options.

No te preocupes (Don’t worry!). Here are five cheap eats that will ensure a full belly, and plenty of extra pocket change for all those Gaudi postcards you’ll send back home. They may not be glamorous, but their fare is tasty and oh so inexpensive.

1. Woki
Asturies, 22
Gracia

One of my all-time-favorites, Woki is located in the vibrant Gracia neighborhood, but also benefits from two other locations, one on the beach in Barceloneta and another in Borne (Carders, 6).

Simply select a noodle or rice base for €4 and then add ingredients (starting at €1.30 each). Finally, choose a free sauce, which can be anything from Thai, Hoi Sin or the “House Sauce.”

Hand in your order and the Woki team throws it all together on an enormous wok right in front of you. Since there’s limited seating at Woki, I usually get my noodles to-go, often eating them right out of the box while watching the tide come in.

2. Tallers 76
Calle Tallers, 76bis

Right in the middle of the city and on trendy Calle Tallers, this lavender-colored café and restaurant is a right-on choice for sandwiches. Made with artisan breads, sandwiches come in delectable combos like goat cheese with sun-dried tomato and smoked salmon with cucumber.

Hey, it’s a no-frills lunch, but tasty and under €6.00, though plan to spend a bit more if you purchase a drink or side.

3. Buenas Migas
Passeig de Gracia (with locations citywide)

Buenas Migas in Barcelona

Cheap delights are on every corner in Barcelona.

With multiple spots around town, Buenas Migas is an easy-to-find—and yummy—Cheapo option. Choose from focaccia pizzas, ample salads, plus an array of sandwiches and pastries.

A focaccia pizza will run you between €4 and €5 (flavors include ‘meat-lovers’, tomato and basil, and four-cheese). Add a drink with your focaccia and you’ll have a delicious midday feast for around €6!

4. La Central
Calle Mallorca, 237 (with locations citywide)

Not everything offered on the menu at La Central—an eatery within a bookshop—falls under the budget category. However, during the lunch rush, they do offer reasonably priced deli wraps, sandwiches, and some pasta salads. All items range from €6 and up.

But, the real reason I love La Central is for their coffee and ambiance. The place benefits by being one of the city’s most eclectic book stores right in the heart of an old neighborhood. Grab a cup o’ joe, take a seat, and browse the wares.

5. Pans & Company
Plaça urquinaona, 12-13 (with locations nationwide)

In a way I hate to mention Pans & Company because, well, it’s a chain. However, it is also very cheap and the quality and quantities here is pretty good. Not unlike the U.S.-based Subway sandwiches, Pans is fast-food in style, but takes a healthy approach to eating.

Seats and 'Pans'; photo by Enric Archivell

Outdoor seating at Pans & Company; photo by Enric Archivell

The sandwiches and sides offered at Pans are geared towards the classic Mediterranean eater, with combos like melted brie and Spanish ham, or tuna and olives. They also serve large salads and occasionally offer hamburgers.

All sandwiches are under €6 and depending on what you order you will likely have a euro or two leftover to grab a drink, side, or opt for a meal combo (around €6 or €7.00). Pans also has an espresso bar that offers cheap, good coffee and tasty pastries and breads.

About the author: Regina W. Bryan is a Barcelona-based freelance writer and photographer. When not eating tapas and exploring Europe, she is tending her balcony veggie garden and practicing Catalan. For more of her thoughts on Spain, check: www.regwb.com and www.thespainscoop.com.

Popularity: 19% [?]

Lagana: Treats For One Day Only!

Tuesday, February 20th, 2007

Lagana
photograph by Kaymaria Daskarolis

On Sunday night we found ourselves inside Sitos Bakery in Kalamata (four hours from Athens by car, at 189 Athinon Street, Kalamata, tel: +30-27210-21373), completely enthralled and delighted.

Sitos’ friendly staff was faithfully engaged in preparing Lagana, a soft, flat bread made with olive oil and covered with sesame seeds. After we left, they worked through the night. By early morning the following day, their Lagana was sold out.

Why the rush on Lagana? The bread is only prepared and sold once a year, on the Monday marking the end of “Apokreas” (Carnivale), and the first day of Lent in the Orthodox Church. This day is also known as “Kathara Deftera,” or “Clean Monday.”

Another treat you’ll find at Sitos Bakery is the divine Lalaggi, bread baked in olive oil. Lalaggi is best-known as a product of Messinia. Visitors with sweet tooths, don’t despair! The fruit tarts on offer at Sitos are also ridiculously tasty.

Sitos Bakery is open from 6 a.m. to 10 p.m. year round.

Popularity: 4% [?]