Photo of a lace display in Bruges, courtesy of LinksmanJD

You simply can’t leave Bruges without strolling along the canals, stopping at a chocolate shop, and of course, paying tribute to the ancient tradition of lacemaking.

Tracing lace

Many believe that the history of lace can be traced to Egyptian times, but the material was likely first made popular in Europe by Flemish artisans in Bruges and Ghent, Belgium. It is said that Joan of Navarre, the wife of King Philip IV (France), arrived in Bruges in 1300 and was smitten with the intricate designs of local lace merchants’ wares. She soon brought the fashion back to France.

A taste for lace

A must-see in Bruges is the Lace Center, Kantcentrum (Peperstraat 3-A; entrance next to Jerusalem Church), where tourists can attend lacemaking workshops, browse exhibits on the history of lace in Belgium, and then buy souvenir accoutrements - in the form of doilies, handkerchiefs, and even wine cozies - from the gift shop. Keep in mind, the lacemaking demonstrations are in the afternoon only and take place in the on-site ‘open lace atelier’ (sounds fancy!).

A typical take-home item from the museum boutique will run you between €9 and €30. A postcard, depicting the complicated craft, or a lace design or pattern, is €1.50. Objects from local and family-run lace boutiques will run you about the same amount as in the Lace Center’s shop, and sometimes much more for larger pieces.

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Photo of a lacemaker in Bruges, courtesy of Arnie J

While you’re at it…

Head over to ‘The Face of Lace‘, a comprehensive exhibit of the craft and its long-reaching influence, at various exhibits held at five museums in Bruges. The exposition runs through March 1, 2009. Participating fashion boutiques in the Bruges’ city center also offer displays related to the exhibit. An audio guide, to be used at all museums, is available for €1. You can buy one combo ticket for all five museum exhibit entrances for €15.

And, be sure to check out all the random lacemakers who usually station themselves outside their shops, performing demonstrations, and sometimes even offering a free swag of fabric.

Also, see our list of recommended hotels in Bruges, Belgium.

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A reception set up in the ruins of St. Donatian’s Church, now a Crowne Plaza. Photo by the Crowne Plaza Hotel.

For nearly one thousand years a massive stone church sat on Bruges’ Burg square. It was destroyed about 200 years ago, but parts of it remain today under a Crowne Plaza Hotel and can be visited for free.

Bruges’ Underground Church

Back around 900 AD, the city built a fort to protect itself from pesky Vikings who were raiding the city. Not long after, the very large and central St. Donatian’s Church was built on top of the fort and remained a place of worship until Napoleon ripped it down in 1799. Soon after, parts of the church were auctioned off.

Jump ahead to 1982, when the city’s Crowne Plaza Hotel was built on the site of St. Donatian’s. During the construction and excavation process, parts of the ancient fort’s foundations were discovered. Structures from the church were also uncovered, including the choir gallery, which was excavated in 1988.

The hotel has converted the basement into conference and reception rooms, lined by the ancient walls, and lit with a touch of drama. They’ve also put on display various relics unearthed in the area, many of which belonged to the church. Paintings show St. Donatian’s in all its glory.

Touring St. Donatian’s

As long as there isn’t a conference in session, visitors can tour the ruins simply by asking at the Crowne Plaza’s front desk.

When we visited recently, a nice porter led us downstairs and turned on the lights. We checked out the ancient walls, drawings, and other relics. Granted, the fresh carpeting, new ceiling, and conference tables can detract from the history on display, but just turn your attention to those walls!

Also see: Our recommended budget hotels in Bruges.

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