Who can resist French art books? Photos by Theadora Brack.

By Théadora Brack in Paris—

Oops, I did it again.

I attended an exposition’s “vernissage” (literally, the “varnishing”—how the French refer to a preview or opening of an art show), and became smitten with the show and its fine-looking catalog. Obsession activated. Hit hard, and a post card just wouldn’t do.

But, how can I get an art catalogue on the cheap? Walk this way!

1. Check out that rack of glossies!

Most museum shops sell “les albums de l’exposition” (guides, magazines, and portfolios). Published by Beaux Arts Magazine, Connaissance des Arts, Le Figaro, or the museum itself, these slim gems are usually prominently displayed, lightweight and affordable, costing just €2 to €10. Chockfull of visuals with punch, they’ll satisfy your head, pocketbook and suitcase. Translated versions are often available, too.

Books on sale!

2. Crack Da Chintzy code

La Boutique du Musée du Louvre not only carries current and back issues of “albums de l’exposition” (see above), but also discounts catalogs from its previous expositions by up to 60% off their original cost!

Other museums like the Centre Pompidou, Musée Carnavalet, and The Palais de Tokyo also slash art catalogue prices throughout the year. Recently at the Musée Galliera (museum of fashion), I purchased the Madame Carven catalogue for just €12, marked down from €30. Memorize one of my favorite French words, “soldes” (“on sale”), and you too will start spotting bargains everywhere. (As Anaïs Nin wrote, “We don’t see things as they are. We see things as we are.”)

3. Ch-ching at Fuh-nack!

Even my French friends were surprised to learn that Fnac (pronounced “fuh-nack”), the largest French entertainment retail chain, discounts its inventory of books. This includes the latest catalogues from current blockbuster shows, like Le Grande Monde d’Andy Warhol at the Grand Palais, Kadinsky at the Centre Pompidou, the David LaChapelle Retrospective at the Musée de la Monnaie, and Valadon et Utrillo at La Pinacothèque!

Fnac is a bustling combination of Barnes & Noble, Best Buy, Staples, and Ticketmaster. With everything from laptops and DVDs to French comic books and concert tickets, it’s one-stop shopping. You can also pick up museum admission tickets.

4. Flâneur-tastique! That’s how we stroll.

I’ve been known to spend entire days in the aisles of Mona Lisait Librairies. Although this funky bookstore chain that specializes in new and used art books has shops scattered all over Paris, its Marais location at 17bis rue Pavée (Metro: St Paul) is closest to my heart. Its creaky wooden floorboards, uneven brick flooring, tinny classical music, helpful staff, and free gift-wrapping all add up to real atmosphere.

Another favorite is at Place Joachim du Bellay, not far from the Centre Pompidou. Each of the seven locations has its own charm, and definitely worth a visit. (By the way, “Mona lisait” means “Mona was reading.”)

The "Librarie du Passage."

For another take on the arts, go meet the artists or at least their wax replicas at the Musée Grévin (Paris Wax Museum). Then visit the Librairie du Passage just a few feet away at 39 and 48 Passage Jouffroy (near Grand Boulevard–pictured above). Open since 1846, it’s in one of Paris’ classic 19th-century shopping arcades. Rumor has it that Victor Hugo, a renowned bargain hound, got his Cheapo on at this very shop. 

6. Mosey on to Glory

Here I weep. At La librairie de l’Avenue in the middle of Clignancourt Flea Market (Métros: Garibaldi or Porte de Clignancourt), the angels sing on high from a little CD player located just below the cashier’s desk. The sweet smell of coffee and frankincense tickles the nose.

This large but still intimate bookshop is well stocked with new and used art books, catalogues, vintage prints and antique magazines. Deciding exactly where to start my quest is the only glitch I encounter here as I make my way though the narrow labyrinth of floor to ceiling bookshelves, stocked with discounted books that have been meticulously organized by category, author or genre.

7. Don’t forget to look in the ‘hood

Neighborhood bookstores (”librairies”) all over the city occasionally stock and discount catalogues from current and past expositions. The handsome books are usually displayed in the windows.

How to find out about current art expositions in Paris

Pariscope: Invest 40 cents in a copy of Pariscope, available at any newsstand or kiosk. The pocket-sized weekly listings magazine covers the week’s happenings from theatre, cinema and arts, to music and restaurants. It hits the stands on Wednesdays.

An important note on pronunciation:

You risk raising a few bemused eyebrows if you ask for directions to an “exhibition.” “Exhibitions” (with an “h”) are peep shows—which is fine, if that’s the sort of display you’re after. However, if you’re looking for art, give that word a “p”–“exposition”!

Tell us. Do you have a favorite bookstore in Paris? Tell us below.

About the author and photographer: Theadora Brack is a writer working in Paris. Her fiction has appeared in more than 30 literary publications, including 3AM International, The Smoking Poet, Beloit Fiction Journal, Mid-American Review, and the Haight-Ashbury Literary Journal.

Popularity: 9% [?]

Paris' Hotel de Ville. Photo by Liz Webber.

By Liz Webber in Paris—

When you’re vacationing, a trip to city hall probably isn’t high on your list of things to do (unless you were visiting San Francisco circa 2004). But this is Paris, and city hall is the magnificent Hôtel de Ville. Moreover, it’s a place where you’ll find fascinating exhibitions on French culture – all of them free.

Learn more about the French for free

For a country so content on keeping its culture, language, and food “pure,” exhibits at the Hôtel de Ville do sometimes stretch the notion of French culture. Last summer saw a tribute to Grace Kelly, princess of Monaco, while another previous expo showcased a day in the life of a rugby player and spectator (rugby is a surprisingly popular sport in France).

One current exhibit is devoted to Le Petit Nicolas, a beloved character from French children’s comics for the past 50 years. Pages from Nicolas stories are hung up on the walls, along with commentary from writer René Goscinny and illustrator Jean-Jacques Sempé. Though the scenes are all in French, it is the French of a child and easily understood.

Children visiting the “Petit Nicolas” expo are given an activity book and a pencil so they can draw their own pictures of Nicolas. Even if you know nothing about Le Petit Nicolas, you’re bound to enjoy this lighthearted look at life through a child’s eyes. This exhibit is on now until May 7, 2009; opening hours are 10 AM to 7 PM every day except Sundays and holidays.

Memories from Overseas and The Magician of Iron

Because one expo wasn’t enough, two more opened April 1, 2009 under the title “Memoire d’outre-mer” (outre-mer refers to French territories overseas). One is a series of photographs, documents and personal belongings related to the nearly 70,000 people from Antilles who migrated to French cities in the 1960s-1980s. The other consists of a massive wall with a list of the names of slaves liberated from French colonies in 1848.

Both can be viewed through April 25, from 10 AM to 7 PM. The exhibit is closed April 6-7, April 13 and on Sundays.

Next up is “Gustave Eiffel le magicien du fer”, a tribute to the architect of Paris’s best-known landmark, the Eiffel Tower, currently celebrating its 120th anniversary. The exhibit will run from May 7 to August 31, 2009.

Consolation prize

With the Hôtel de Ville’s central location near Châtelet and the Georges Pompidou Center, there’s no excuse for not visiting. You could easily make it part of a day to Notre Dame or the Marais.

And if you can’t make it to Paris, check out this virtual tour of the Hôtel de Ville.

About the author: Liz Webber is a freelance journalist living and working in Paris. She has previously worked for the International Herald Tribune and Budget Travel.

Popularity: 9% [?]

So often, poetic things happen when artists find themselves on foreign soil. Many, many Anglophone writers have seemed to find it easier to let loose in Paris than at home. Paris inspired Hemingway, Stein, and their Lost Generation counterparts. Today, the city is home to funnyman writer David Sedaris.

Through June 25, 2007, this proud tradition is on display at the Centre Pompidou, where curators have celebrated the life and work of Samuel Beckett, the Irish novelist and playwright who called Paris home for more than half his life.

The author of Waiting for Godot and one-time secretary of James Joyce was the consummate expat, seen often at Left Bank cafés debating Marcel Duchamp. The Centre Pompidou’s exhibit includes interpretations of Beckett’s main themes by contemporary artists. Entrance to the exhibition runs €10. Closed on Tuesdays, the exhibition can be viewed from 11 a.m. until 9 p.m. (until 11 p.m. on Thursdays).

Anglophone writers brave enough to share their poetry or creative work should visit the weekly writing group held every Saturday at the Shakespeare and Company bookshop.

Popularity: 3% [?]