A rooftop view of Nicosia, Cyprus. Photo by Alex Christodoulides.

Editor’s Note: This week, the blog will be tagging along with fellow Cheapo Alex Christodoulides as she visits family in Cyprus.

NICOSIA, Cyprus—Nicosia has about a dozen churches of various styles and ages scattered through the walled part of the city, ranging from the Byzantine Chrysaliniotissa Church near the Green Line and the Famagusta Gate to the airy 19th-century Phaneromeni Church. Ayios Ioannis cathedral sounds larger than it is and has been through more change than its simple name suggests. Some, like Stavros tou Missirikou Church, have survived so many masters of Cyprus that their outward appearance would seem to indicate an identity crisis.

Chrysaliniotissa Church

Chrysaliniotissa Church keeps a low profile, literally, with its solid, reliable barrel vaults. Although it’s on a street that bears its name, it’s pretty unobtrusive if you arrive there from a back road – no sky-high bell tower makes it easy to spot miles away.

Inside is a respite from the heat and glare, thanks to thick stone walls. The iconostasis here is unusually wide, making for a shallow but broad seating area. Take a look at the Virgin Mary and Christ icons, where worshippers often leave offerings in silver or wax to symbolize requests or thanks for prayers answered.

Ayios Ioannis cathedral

The oft-reinvented Ayios Ioannis sits inside a complex that includes the Archbishopric and the Byzantine Museum and Art Galleries. So small it seems you could stretch your arms and almost touch both walls, the church was built in 1662 on the site of a 14th-century Benedictine chapel dedicated to St. John the Evangelist which subsequently became a Greek Orthodox church honoring St. John the Theologian.

The single-aisle building’s lavishly painted walls and ceiling depict scenes from the Bible and the major saints of the Orthodox Church, with the throng of faces clearing for a huge Pantokrator above the elaborate iconostasis. Shooting photos and video is not allowed inside the church, and a sign at the door says tour groups get five minutes to take it all in, but on quiet days the caretaker will let you take a seat to admire as long as you like.

Stavros tou Missirikou Church

Stavros tou Missirikou Church was built in the 16th century as a medieval Orthodox house of worship, but was converted into a mosque in 1571 when the Ottomans took over the island. The church has some Byzantine, Gothic and Italian Renaissance architectural elements, and a minaret added to one side of the building documents its time as a mosque, which is a lot to cram into a building that seats maybe 30 people. No longer used for ecclesiastical services, the church often houses exhibits.

Phaneromeni Church

Nearby is Phaneromeni Church, the largest in the walled city. Its tall, unadorned white walls seem to direct the worshippers’ gaze to the massive icons near the entrances and the intricately carved, painted and gilded iconostasis.

Phaneromeni Church is another where the faithful have left a collection of wax items hooked on the iconostasis rail to symbolize prayers made or answered. A constant trickle of worshippers drops by to kiss the icons of favorite saints or offer a quick prayer for an urgent request as a benevolent-looking Pantokrator gazes down on them from on high.

About the author: Alex Christodoulides is one of those push-me-pull-you creatures known as a dual citizen. When not at home in New York City (where she is a freelance writer) or in Cyprus (where she is a freeloader taking advantage of her relatives’ hospitality), she is probably dreaming of a trip to someplace where vaccinations are required and Fodor’s fears to tread.

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No trip to Barcelona is complete without picking up a little free (or almost-free) reminder of Gaudí, the city’s favorite architect. Happily, Barcelona is teeming with arty Gaudí souvenirs, ranging from the refined to the (you guessed it) gaudy.

Take home some cheapo Gaudí

Regarded as tasteless in his own time, Antoni Gaudí’s unique art nouveau ideas are widely celebrated in Barcelona’s architecture today. All over the city, and surrounding his iconic Sagrada Família in Eixample, Gaudí souvenirs abound.

Sure, some of these items are tacky, but tacky will be fun back home! Some of our favorite examples of Gaudí souvenirs include:

• Illustrated brochures and ticket stubs from the Segrada Família
• Gaudí-adorned (and free) napkins from the church’s on-site café
• Postcards of the picturesque Casa Milà and Parc Güell
• Salt and pepper shakers in the shape of Gaudí smokestacks
• Gaudí chess pieces

These are just a few of our favorite Gaudí-themed cheapo souvenirs. You can preview some souvenirs here, but know that you’ll be able to find cheaper versions from street vendors.

While you’re at it…

As long as one is in the barrio, we suggest picking up free hand-outs from museums showing off any of the city’s modern style. The Picasso Museum in Old Town and the Museum of Chocolate San Pere Born are both good places to find stylish brochures.

Editor’s Note: This is our third post in our “Cheapo Souvenirs” blog series. Join us over the next four weeks as we suggest one cheap or free souvenir to bring home from each city we cover on EuroCheapo. Do you have a suggestion for another cheap souvenir in Barcelona? A favorite Gaudí souvenir? Leave a comment below! 

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A reception set up in the ruins of St. Donatian’s Church, now a Crowne Plaza. Photo by the Crowne Plaza Hotel.

For nearly one thousand years a massive stone church sat on Bruges’ Burg square. It was destroyed about 200 years ago, but parts of it remain today under a Crowne Plaza Hotel and can be visited for free.

Bruges’ Underground Church

Back around 900 AD, the city built a fort to protect itself from pesky Vikings who were raiding the city. Not long after, the very large and central St. Donatian’s Church was built on top of the fort and remained a place of worship until Napoleon ripped it down in 1799. Soon after, parts of the church were auctioned off.

Jump ahead to 1982, when the city’s Crowne Plaza Hotel was built on the site of St. Donatian’s. During the construction and excavation process, parts of the ancient fort’s foundations were discovered. Structures from the church were also uncovered, including the choir gallery, which was excavated in 1988.

The hotel has converted the basement into conference and reception rooms, lined by the ancient walls, and lit with a touch of drama. They’ve also put on display various relics unearthed in the area, many of which belonged to the church. Paintings show St. Donatian’s in all its glory.

Touring St. Donatian’s

As long as there isn’t a conference in session, visitors can tour the ruins simply by asking at the Crowne Plaza’s front desk.

When we visited recently, a nice porter led us downstairs and turned on the lights. We checked out the ancient walls, drawings, and other relics. Granted, the fresh carpeting, new ceiling, and conference tables can detract from the history on display, but just turn your attention to those walls!

Also see: Our recommended budget hotels in Bruges.

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If you can pull your gaze from the winding canals and floating gondolas, you’ll find there’s plenty of art to see in Venice. Many of the Italian masters, including Titian, Tintoretto, and Giorgione, have artwork on display around the city.

While the biggest museums, such as the Gallerie dell’Accademia and the Ca’ d’Oro charge anywhere from €2.50 to €6.50 for admission, Venetian churches (many of which still hold daily mass) are treasure troves of free art.

Art history at the Chiesa di San Moise

The Chiesa di San Moise, in Venice’s San Marco neighborhood, is a particularly worthwhile example. Built in the 8th-Century, this church has had enough time to acquire extravagant baroque touches-and it shows! Highlights include:

• Facade: Outside, covering the facade, you’ll find a line-up of worthy cherubs and statues.
• Statues: Inside, San Moise is decked out with busts of Italian aristocrats, Tintoretto’s “La Lavanda dei Piedi,” and bronze angels.
• Alter: A depiction of Moses on Mount Sinai graces the altar.
• Organ: An 18th century-organ is occasionally opened for public recitals.

Not bad for one church!

Visiting the church

The Chiesa di San Moise is open daily from 4 p.m. to 7 p.m. The church is reachable by vaporetto stop San Marco del Giglio (Line 1). Check out the official site for more info. 

Also see: Our recommended budget hotels in Venice.

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No bones about it, Rome’s Capuchin Crypt is an incredible (and intense) way to spend an hour. Located underneath the Church of Santa Maria della Immacolata Concezione on Via Veneto, this burial chamber is unique in its decorative technique—rooms are adorned extensively with human bones.

More than 4,000 monks are buried within the crypt’s six rooms, all of whom died between 1528 and 1870. The crypt got started back in 1631, when the Capuchin monks moved into their new friary upstairs and brought with them the bones of their brethren long gone. They arranged these bones in their new crypt, first lining them up against the walls, but eventually getting much more elaborate.

Over the next 240 years, until 1870, the friars would become experts at, shall we say, “interior design.” Bones, such as skulls, leg bones, pelvises and such, were separated and employed to make elaborate columns, arches, and floral designs with great flourishes. If you squint your eyes, you might be able to forget that you’re looking at the deceased.

Rooms include the “Crypt of the Skulls,” “Crypt of the Pelvises,” “Crypt of the Leg Bones and Thigh Bones,” and more.

Visiting the Capuchin Crypt

Church of Santa Maria della Immacolata Concezione
Via Vittorio Veneto, 27. Metro: Barberini
Hours: 9-12 PM and 3-6 PM daily. Closed Thursdays.

Although the crypt is free to visit, a donation is suggested. More information about the church and the crypt is available on the church’s website.

Also see: our list of recommended budget hotels in Rome.

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When in Nice, take a break from the Mediterranean waters and head to the posh, northern suburb of Cimiez. The town offers ancient ruins from its important past (it was the region’s capital city during Roman times, 1,700 years ago), along with museums, a famous cemetery, and the Monastere Notre-Dame de Cimiez. The area is also home to Nice’s jazz festival, which occurs every year in July.

A visit to the Monastere de Cimiez is a quiet, enchanted escape from Nice. Dating back to the 16th century, the gothic church you see today was the result of an 1850 renovation. The church is famous for three paintings by prominent brother painters, Louis and Antoine Brea. The near-by museum, the Musée Franciscain, explains the role of the Franciscans in Nice over the centuries, and allows visitors a peek into a recreated (and especially drab) monk’s cell.

The adjoining cemetery is notable for its picturesque qualities, marble graves, and notable residents. Painters Raoul Dufy and Henri Matisse, both former residents of Cimiez, are buried here. Wander through the cemetery, making sure to leave time for the beautifully landscaped gardens.

Visiting the Monastere Notre Dame de Cimiez

The church is open daily from 9 AM to 6 PM. The museum is open Monday through Saturday, from 10 AM - 12 PM, and 3 PM - 6 PM. Admission is free.  For more information, call 04-93-81-00-04.

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While visiting Munich, take a break from Wagner and the Biergarten by visiting the Frauenkirche, one of Bavaria’s most beloved Gothic structures. The Frauenkirche (”Cathedral of Our Lady”), a Catholic church located near the city’s Marienplatz square, sports twin domed towers and expansive vaulted ceilings. What’s more, admission is free!

Quick History

Munich’s Frauenkirche has been “in service” since 1488, although bombings during World War II destroyed much of its original facade. The interior boasts paintings spanning five centuries, along with the tomb of Emperor Ludwig IV of Bavaria and other items of interest. (For example, a mark on the church’s floor, known as the Teufelschritt, is said to be the devil’s footprint!)

Visiting the Frauenkirche

The cathedral is open daily, although visits are not permitted during services. (Take the advice of our friends at hidden europe magazine, however, and take part in a service!) The church offers guided tours starting at 2 PM every Sunday, Tuesday, and Thursday. Visitors can climb the towers for a great view, May through October.

For more information, check out the Munich Tourism Board’s official site and the section on the Frauenkirche (more detailed information is available on the site, in German). 

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Photo courtesy of hidden europe magazine

Cheapos clearly like to get under the skin of a city, probing well beyond the regular sights to get a feel for what makes a community tick. Faith is often still part of the fabric of European life, but getting a feel for it as a foreigner isn’t always easy – unless you happen to be a churchgoer.

Churches of all denominations (and mosques and synagogues, too) usually welcome casual visitors to their services, provided that the stranger dresses appropriately, adopts a reverent demeanour, and does not attempt to take photographs during services.

Get thee to Church

York Minster for Evensong is a very different place from the echo-filled space around which tourists wander during the day. The Minster is transformed into something altogether more meaningful. Similarly Vespers in St Mark’s in Venice will leave you in awe of the space for which Monteverdi wrote such evocative music in a way that you’ll simply miss if you shuffle round with the tourist crowds. The interior of the newly restored Frauenkirche in Dresden seems, with its strange mix of pastel shades, like a tribute to poor taste during the day when tourists traipse through the place; attend a service and the space assumes a different meaning and is altogether more pleasing.

Whether it be at a grand cathedral like Chartres or Milan, or in a humble parish church in a small village in the Alps, Mass on a Sunday morning will only take an hour out of your day. This sedentary hour may give some quiet insights into local life. Take in a service at a Methodist chapel in Wales for a good glimpse into Welsh life. What is modern Poland without Catholicism? And in hundreds of communities across Russia, devotional zeal knows no bounds. A visit to an Orthodox service for the Divine Liturgy on a Sunday is a chance to witness some fine liturgical theatre that offers rich insights into life in Russia.

Take in a service and you’ll save on a few admission fees into the bargain. No church has yet had the temerity to charge those who come to pray!

This is the latest in a summer series of postings by Nicky Gardner and Susanne Kries. The Berlin-based duo are the editors of hidden europe magazine, a publication that explores the patchwork quilt of cultures that make up modern Europe.

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Venice, city of gondolas and canals, can get expensive. Thankfully, however, it need not break your budget. Here are five free things to do in Venice: 

Hang out in Piazza San Marco.

While we don’t recommend Cheapos splurge for the touristy restaurants and cafés lining San Marco’s square, we do think that parking yourself just outside the Basilica to people-watch is one of the best free things to do in Venice. Head inside to the Basilica (open from March to October, Monday through Friday from 9:45 a.m. to 4:45 p.m. and on Sundays from 2-4:45 p.m.; from April to September, Monday through Friday from 9:45 a.m. to 5 p.m. and Sundays from 2-5 p.m.), and take in 10th-Century relics for just €1.50. Snap a few photos. Just don’t feed the pigeons. These days, that pasttime is off-limits.  

Cross the Ponte di Rialto.

The Rialto Bridge could be the most famous bridge in Italy (we hear you grumbling, Florence!). It also affords one of the best canal views in the city, and is a perfect starting point for travelers ready to lose themselves in Venice. Spend some time wandering through the well-known Rialto Market—which is closeby—and where fishmongers, and fruit and vegetable dealers convene daily (from early morning until nearly 11 p.m.). Browse the wares for free or haggle with a seller.

Take in a free concert.

Unfortunately, in Venice, free concerts and expositions are not widely promoted. Check for flyers in cafes and bars or look for posters hanging outside churches and museums. During culture week in May, many museums also host free events and exhibits.  For free concert listings in Italian, visit the “Music in Venice” site.

Or, check out the official site for Venice’s Suona festival (scheduled for July 6th this year), a day-long city-wide event, coinciding with the European Fete de la Musique, in which all of Venice’s squares host free concerts. Also, try the tourist center next to St. Mark’s Square, where they often have “what’s on” flyers and pamphlets.

Go to church.

Venice is packed with churches and many of them are free and open to the public daily. After you’ve seen the majestic San Marco’s Basilica, check out two of our other favorites: Santa Maria della Salute, a gorgeous, picturesque church dedicated to the Madonna, which frequently hosts free concerts, especially during the months of January and February. Next, visit the 13th-Century Gothic church of S.S. Giovanni e Paolo. Here, make sure you check out Paolo Veronese’s ceiling frescoes.

Get lost!

Hey, in Venice it’s cheap—and easy!—to get lost. Wander the cobblestone streets, absent of motorized vehicles, and traverse bridges, meander the canals, and get a real sense for the city’s 15th-Century layout. Losing yourself in the architecture of the city is one of the best ways to see the real Venice and to experience it as it was meant for travelers. In any case, try as you might, you won’t be able to avoid getting lost during your trip to Venice. You might as well make it “part of the plan.”

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Michelangelo Buonarroti was born outside of Florence in 1475.  Though he spent much of his life working in Rome, he loved Florence and considered it his home.  Many of his greatest works still reside in Florence, and Florentines are exceedingly proud of their native son. 

Although visiting the city can get pricey, many of Michelangelo’s treasures can be experienced cheaply, or for free! Angela K. Nickerson, author of A Journey into Michelangelo’s Rome, takes us on a budget-friendly tour of Michelangelo’s Florence.

Michelangelo in the Museums

The Bargello: Via del Proconsolo, 4  

Perhaps the best bargain in Florence, the Bargello is a small museum with an amazing collection of sculpture, all for one of the lowest museum prices in Florence (€4).  Here Michelangelo’s Bacchus holds court alongside his Brutus.  Bacchus was Michelangelo’s first commission in Rome, and it failed to meet his patron’s approval because he depicted the god of wine as a drunk.  However, his Brutus—a piece done in his later years—was well-loved, though it served as a scathing commentary on Florence’s political situation.  Donatello’s David is another gem on view at the museum.

The Academy: Via Ricasoli, 60

Home to Michelangelo’s David as well as some of the Captives (originally designed for Pope Julius II’s tomb in Rome), The Academy (in Italian-Accademia), is home to one of the most famous sculptures in the world.  The David cemented Michelangelo’s reputation as the greatest sculptor in Italy and won him a lifetime of work.  While the David is a gorgeous example of finished work, the Captives show how Michelangelo could take one unspectacular and enormous block of marble and create art.

Opera del Duomo:  Piazza del Duomo, 9  

Never crowded, the Opera del Duomo is a less expensive museum option (€6).  Michelangelo’s Florentine Pieta occupies a well-lit alcove in this lovely gallery.  Intended as his own tomb marker, the Florentine Pieta (1548-55) was abandoned, but the figure of Nicodemus still stands as a self-portrait.

Casa Buonarroti: Via Ghibellina, 70  

Also off the beaten path, Casa Buonarroti offers a chance to see the work of a young Michelangelo for a small fee (€6.50).  Scholars can access a large collection of his papers, drawings, and correspondence too.  But the casual visitor shouldn’t miss “Battle of the Centaurs” and “Madonna of the Steps”, both sculpted by Michelangelo while he was just a teenager. (So much for teenage indifference!)  “Battle of the Centaurs” shows a young artists’ mastery of movement and anatomy in a writhing mass of bodies.  And “Madonna” is the first of many sensitive portraits of mothers and their children, all created by an artist whose own mother died when he was six-years-old.

Michelangelo in the Churches

Santa Maria del Fiore (the Duomo):  Piazza Duomo, 17

The Duomo—whose sanctuary itself is free to visit—had only been finished for about 30 years when Michelangelo was born, and it was hailed as one of the world’s architectural wonders because Brunelleschi was the first architect to successfully build a dome after the fall of the Roman Empire.  Having grown up in the dome’s shadow, Michelangelo sent for its dimensions when he set out to design the dome over St. Peter’s in Rome. (Bonus tip: Remember, while you’re there, you can visit the Church of San Benedetto for free as well.)

Santa Croce: Piazza Santa Croce, 16

Michelangelo was buried in his home church of Santa Croce, and he is in good company alongside Dante, Galileo, and Rossini among others.  The church, however, charges €4 admission to see the tombs as well as the beautiful architecture.

Michelangelo for Free

Piazzale Michelangelo: Viale Michelangelo

Built to honor the great artist, the Piazzale Michelangelo is the best place to take a panoramic photo of Florence and the Arno River. Take a picnic or just hang out for a free hours and enjoy the people-watching.

Loggia della Signoria: Piazza della Signoria

According to legend the face carved into the doorframe of the Signoria was created by a blindfolded Michelangelo on a dare. During the Renaissance, the Piazza della Signoria was the site of Michelangelo’s David and remained as such until the late 1800s.  A replica stands there today amid other notable pieces of art including Giambologna’s “Rape of the Sabine Women” and Cellini’s “Perseus”. 

About the author: Angela K. Nickerson, author of ”A Journey into Michelangelo’s Rome” (Roaring Forties Press, 2008), married a Roman and fell in love with a country.  She now leads small groups of travelers on trips to Italy, but her wanderlust is relentless.  Living by the motto “Just go!” Angela jumps on a plane wherever and whenever possible.

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