Outside the Santa Margherita dei Cerchi. Photos by Laura Mongillo.

By Laura Mongillo in Florence—

Florence, along with the rest of Italy, is famous for its churches. Upon arriving in Florence, most tourists head to the Duomo for its giant brick dome, the Santa Maria Novella for its artwork, and Santa Croce for its crypt.

While these churches are the most well-known in Florence, they are certainly not the only ones—and in my opinion, not the most interesting ones. While the Duomo has free entrance, the inside is relatively sparse. Santa Maria Novella and Santa Croce are definitely worth a visit, but both require paid entry.

So, try to take a step away from the guidebook and visit these three interesting and peculiar (and admission-free) churches that you’ll find tucked away where you’d least expect them.

The Chiesa dei Santi Michele e Gaetano.

Chiesa dei Santi Michele e Gaetano
Piazza Antinori, Via Tornabuoni

While gazing longingly into the windows of the Hermès store, you might not notice this behemoth looming behind you. The Chiesa dei Santi Michele e Gaetano, also known as San Michele degli Antinori, is a large, dark church of the Baroque style—one of the few Baroque churches in Florence.

Aside from its size and serious exterior, what I find particularly fascinating about this church is its opening hours. You will often find it open late in the evening, around 8 or 9 PM. Feel free to wander in and gaze at the interesting examples of 17th-century artwork so often ignored in the city.

Santa Margherita dei Cerchi
Via Santa Margherita, off of Via del Corso

From the winding, bustling Via del Corso, take a right onto a side street and you’ll find yourself in front of a small brick building that, aside from the signs, would not be easily identified as a church.

This miniscule church (pictured at top), while lacking in decoration, is rich with history. For anyone that’s heard of Dante’s famous love for Beatrice, this is reportedly the small church in which they met. As the story goes, Dante fell madly in love with the beautiful, nine-year-old Beatrice upon seeing her at mass one morning.

Inside the church, you will find a tomb supposedly belonging to Beatrice. Take a look at the basket placed nearby, as it’s filled with letters and notes addressed to Beatrice by visitors and students from around the world in appreciation of the work her beauty inspired.

Inside the Chiesa di Santi Apostoli.

Chiesa di Santi Apostoli
Piazza del Limbo

On the picturesque Piazza del Limbo, you’ll find one of Florence’s old bath houses, a fancy oil shop, a luxurious hotel, and also this small, well-maintained medieval church.

If you have one euro, use it to turn on the lights to see better. You will find a small, simple layout with exquisite carved and painted wooden beams, paintings from various time periods, and—my personal favorite—a brightly colored ceramic piece made by the Della Robbia family.

About the author: Laura Mongillo holds an Undergraduate and Masters degree in Italian Studies from NYU and has been living in Florence, Italy for three years.

Popularity: 5% [?]

Storkyrkan on Stadsholmen. Photo by palestrina55.

By Marcus Cederstrom in Stockholm—

Gamla Stan, Stockholm’s Old Town, is made up of four different islands: Stadsholmen, Riddarholmen, Helgeandsholmen, and Strömsborg. Stadsholmen is known colloquially as “Gamla Stan” although all four are technically a part of the Old Town.

Between the different islands, Gamla Stan is home to several historical buildings including the Royal Castle and the Swedish Parliament. The islands are also home to three beautiful churches. Storkyrkan, or “The Great Church” and Tyska kyrkan, the “German Church,” are both located on the main island of Stadsholmen. Riddarholmskyrkan (Riddarholmens Church) is located, on, well, Riddarholmen, which means the “Knights’ Islet.”

The three churches give a glimpse of the religious and royal history of Stockholm and Gamla Stan. And you won’t pay more than 60 SEK (about $8 US) for the entire experience.

Storkyrkan
Stortorget 1
Visiting hours: 9 AM-6 PM Monday-Saturday; 9 AM-4 PM Sunday

Storkyrkan is the site of the last royal wedding of Sweden. It will also be the site of the next royal wedding of Sweden, as the Crown Princess and her fiancé are to be married there in June 2010.

Of course, it is not royal weddings that make the church so impressive. Instead it is the red brick, Gothic architecture inside. Highlights include the large statue of St. George slaying the dragon to the left of the altar and the beautiful paintings, some of which depict a Stockholm from hundreds of years ago. Plus, visiting the church is cheap. Between May and September you’ll have to pay 30 SEK, the rest of the year entrance is free.

Note: The Storkyrkan is closed for upkeep from January 11, 2010 to May 2, 2010.

Tyska kyrkan
Svartmangatan 16
Visiting hours: Tuesday and Fri: 9:30-11:30 AM and 1-4 PM, Wednesday: 9 AM-12 PM

Visiting Tyska kyrkan is free. Always. Built in the 1500’s, the church was the first German parish located outside of Germany. Mass in German is still held here every Sunday. Like so many centuries-old churches, Tyska kyrkan has seen several additions and renovations, the most notable after a large fire in 1878. This gave rise to the current church spire, which rises 96 meters into the Stockholm sky.

Riddarholmskyrkan
Riddarholmen
Visiting hours: 10 AM-4 PM in September and May; 10 AM-5 PM June-August (closed from mid-September to mid-May)

Riddarholmskyrkan is actually not a church anymore. By 1807, there were so few people living on the island that the city decommissioned Riddarholmskyrkan as a church and began charging admission. (Today, the island is said to have only one permanent resident, a man well into his 90’s).

Some people might argue that the beautiful black spire and the church’s wonderful architecture are reason enough to charge admission. However, it is actually what lies inside that attracts the crowds. Riddarholmskyrkan is the burial site of the Swedish royalty. For a stretch of over 300 years (1634-1950), all but one member of the Swedish royal family (Queen Christina who abdicated the throne) was buried in the church. Entrance to wander amongst old Swedish royalty is just 30 SEK, or 10 SEK if you’re a student.

Popularity: 3% [?]

Exploring the Piazza Navona. Photos by Samantha Collins.

By Samantha Collins in Rome—

Exploring the Piazza Navona in Rome’s historic center is like visiting London’s Covent Garden but with a warmer climate and with much older buildings. The Piazza Navona is where you can find street entertainers, mime artists, portrait painters, and street cafes set amongst the backdrop of baroque fountains and elegant period buildings. You are likely to find something going on at any time of the year, whether it is a concert, a political demonstration, or the famous Christmas toy market.

A Slice of Piazza History

Originally, Piazza Navona was home to horse racing and jousting and was centered around an oval track that was built in 86 AD. At this time it was known as the Stadium of Domitian and could accommodate up to 33,000 spectators.

In the 13th Century, Sant’ Agnese was executed here after she refused to denounce her Christian beliefs and marry a pagan. Legend says that as she was paraded naked through the piazza before her execution, with just her hair protecting her modesty.

Fontana dei Quattro Fiumi

Romans often flooded the Piazza by blocking the fountain outlets. This meant that the aristocracy could enjoy being pulled around on an artificial lake in gilded carriages to take part in mock sea battles that were all the rage at the time.

Fontana dei Quattro Fiumi

The pride of the Piazza is Bernini’s Fontana dei Quattro Fiumi, which was commissioned by Pope Innocent X (look closely and you will see his insignia of doves in the design). The fountain was contentious when it was commissioned, as the money to pay for it was raised by unpopular taxes on bread and other staple foods. This fascinating Baroque creation pays homage to the four greatest rivers of the time, the Danube, the Ganges, the Nile, and the Plate. The fountain also features an Egyptian obelisk in its center.

A recent renovation has brought the Fontana dei Quattro Fiumi back to its former glory. Make sure to look for the two other fountains in the square: At the southern end you can find the Fontana del Moro by Giacomo della Porta and at the northern end there is the Fontana di Nettuno by Antonio della Bitta, depicting Neptune battling with a monster.

Sant’ Agnese in Agnone Church

The Chiostro del Bramante

Commissioned by Innocent X in 1652, this elegant 17th-century church commemorates the execution of Sant’ Agnese. It was built in part by Borromini, who created a notable, concave facade for the church.

At the time, there was intense rivalry between the Bernini and Boromini, and according to legend, the statue on Bernini’s fountain is holding its hand up to the church to protect himself in case it falls down. (From the church facade, a statue of Sant’ Agnes looks down, reassuringly confident in the strength of her church.) Whilst this is a nice story, the fountain was actually created before the church, so it sadly owes more to dramatic license than fact.

Another building of note around the Piazza is the Palazzo Pamphilj, which is now the Brazilian Embassy and which was also commissioned by Innocent X.

Take time to explore the narrow streets around the square especially around the Via della Pace which is a good place for nightlife. Take time also to visit the Chiostro del Bramante and the Santa Maria della Pace Church with its frescoes by Raphael.

Practical Notes

Piazza Navona is located in the historic center and is easy to reach on foot. If you prefer to travel by bus, take the 30 express or the 87, which both stop right by the square.

Note that buying coffee in the square is an expensive option. However, if you take a newspaper and linger at your table long after the coffee cups have been cleared away, you can get more than your money’s worth by just sitting and watching the world go by.

Popularity: 4% [?]

Caravaggio's "Madonna di Loreto" on display. Photo by Gaspa.

By Samantha Collins in Rome—

There is something about Caravaggio that fascinates people. Even those who would normally prefer to cross a street of hot coals than spend time looking at paintings seem happy to make an exception for this rebel of Counter-Renaissance Art.

To celebrate Rome’s Caravaggio exhibition that has just opened at the Villa Borghese (and runs through January 24, 2010), it seemed timely to look at this bad boy of the paintbrush and take a tour around Rome to see some of his masterpieces for free!

So just who was Caravaggio?

Whilst most artists of the Middle Ages were more soft ruffles than tough scuffles, Caravaggio was not afraid of a fight, a drink, and the odd murder to boot. Commission happy, the taste of luxury did not bring out his lighter side. As well as pushing the Catholic church to the edge with his dark religious paintings, he eventually lost his temper once too often. After killing a young man who beat him in a tennis match in the Campo Dei Fiori, he fled Rome with a price on his head. He finally died in exile, never learning that he had been given a Papal Pardon.

Where can I see Caravaggio for free?

Sant’ Agostino Church
Via Sant’ Agostino

The Madonna di Loreto (painted in 1605, pictured above) is hung in the first chapel on the left. The church is close to Piazza Navona, and also includes a Raphael fresco. The church is currently under restoration, but don’t be fooled. Under the scaffolding, it is still open so you can see the paintings. For those who are pregnant (or wish to be), touch the statue of the “Madonna del Parto” near the door as you leave for luck.

San Luigi dei Francesi
Via Giustiniani

San Luigi dei Francesi. Photo: Gaspa

In the church of San Luigi dei Francesi you get three Caravaggio paintings for free with the Matthew trilogy, including  “The Calling of Saint Matthew”, “St. Matthew and the Angels”, and “The Matrydom of Saint Matthew”. This church is close to the centre, a short walk from the Pantheon and Piazza Navona, and next to the French institute with its wonderful bookshop.

Santa Maria Del Popolo
Piazza Del Popolo

This church is about a 20-minute walk from the historic centre, or you can take the Metro Linea A to Flaminio. Here you can find two paintings, the “Conversion of St. Paul” and “The Crucifixion of St. Peter”, so well worth the journey.

Please note that many churches are closed between 1 PM - 4 PM, but usually stay open in the evening until around 7 PM.

And if I want to pay?

Well if you are at the Santa Maria del Popolo, it is just a short walk up the hill to the Galleria Borghese, and its wonderful park. Here you can see three Caravaggio works, “Sick Bacchus”, “Boy with Bag of Fruit” and “Madonna dei Palafrenieri”. Entrance will cost you €8.50 but you also get to see the amazing Bernini sculpture of “Daphne and Apollo” amongst many other treasures.

At the moment, you can also access the Caravaggio and Bacon exhibition, on through January 24. Note that for the Galleria Borghese, you need to book in advance as only a limited number are allowed in at any one time (more details here).

Lastly, you can see the “Gypsy Fortune Teller” at the Capitoline Museums, entrance fee €6.50. Don’t forget that both of these museums are included in the Roma Pass, which is a 3-day pass that gives you free access to two museums, free travel on Rome’s public transport, and discounts to other museums and attractions. The pass costs €23. (read more about the Roma Pass).

Popularity: 9% [?]

Amsterdam's Royal Palace will be open for free. Photo by vgm8383.

By Amy Goemans in Amsterdam—

Every September, Amsterdam celebrates its cultural heritage with gusto. Usually set on the second weekend of the month, Open Heritage Day is a two-day event offering various attractions and a glimpse of Dutch heritage for free!

This year’s celebration, set for September 12-13, 2009, will open about 4,000 attractions all over the Netherlands.

Here are some highlights from Amsterdam:

Royal Palace
Nieuwezijds Voorburgwal 147
Opening Hours: 12 – 5 PM, closed Monday
Official website

If you love sneak peeks at the inner life of nobles, the Royal Palace is the place for you. This town-hall turned royal palace from the 17th century is one of various buildings allocated to the Dutch royalty. However, a few areas are designated open to the public, and visitors can check out everything from the intricate interior décor to the exquisite paintings. Interesting attractions include sculptures of Apollo inside the palace and Atlas at the back of the building as well as fancy furniture from the time of Lodewijk Napoleon.

Artis Zoo. Photo by ifranz.

Artis Zoo
Plantage Kerklaan 38-40
Opening Hours: 9 AM - 5 PM
Official website

Given that the Artis Zoo is one of Amsterdam’s most popular attractions, shouldn’t you take advantage of the free admission on Heritage Day? Sure, but keep in mind that Artis Zoo includes a number of different buildings and only a few of them offer free entrance on this weekend.

You can check out three spots – Grote Museum, the Library and City Zoo. Here you can bond with nature, check out the expansive collection of books in the library, and be amazed by the museum’s extensive collection.

Oude Kerk
Oudekerksplein 23
Opening hours: 11 AM - 5 PM Mon-Sat, and 1 PM – 5 PM Sunday
Official website

With its majestic décor and rich historical past, Oude Kerk will appeal to culture buffs and religious folk alike. One of the oldest buildings in the city, the church certainly knows how to impress, with its Gothic architectural touches, intricate stained glass windows, and the massive ceiling. Art fans take note: Rembrandt’s marriage to Saskia in Friesland was organized in this church, and she was buried here as well.

For more information about the two-day Dutch culture extravaganza, check out the Open Heritage Day official website.

About the author: Amy K Goemans is a writer and web developer based in Rotterdam, Netherlands. Her travel experiences include Europe and Southern Africa with occasional visits to Asia. Amsterdam, Rotterdam, Antwerp, and Durban are currently her top favorite cities.

Popularity: 6% [?]

Christ and saints atop San Giovanni's basilica. Photos: Sav D'Souza.

By Sav D’Souza in Rome—

The distinctive Porta San Giovanni gate welcomes you to the Rome’s San Giovanni neighborhood. The area lies south of Termini station, near enough to Rome’s center, but ideally located away from the hustle and bustle, and most tourists.

Among other delights, Rome’s San Giovanni neighborhood offers its share of interesting sights, cheap clothing opportunities, and sweet eats. Here’s our guide to a fun day exploring what to see, do, and eat in San Giovanni.

1. Basilica of San Giovanni in Laterano

Grab a bargain at San Giovanni’s market.

A must-visit. The basilica of San Giovanni in Laterano (Basilica of St. John Lateran), pictured above, is Rome’s only official cathedral, and thus could be considered the “big daddy” of all basilicas. The bishop of Rome (the Pope) counts this as his church, and as a result it ranks higher than other churches in the Roman Catholic Church. The church was originally constructed by Constantine the Great in the fourth century.

Piazza San Giovanni. Open every day 7:00 AM - 6:30 PM

2. San Giovanni Clothing Market

Head for the San Giovanni clothing market to find very cheap new and used clothing. The market features plenty of stalls to pick through. You’re destined to find a bargain or two.

Via Sannio. Open daily, except Sunday. 8:00 AM - 2:00 PM

Tiramisu at Pompi. The best in Rome?

3. Tiramisu stop

Armed with bags of new (and used) clothing, head down the road, near Re di Roma, to Pompi. The restaurant has a reputation for dishing up the best tiramisu in Rome. If you’re not in the mood for layers of cream, chocolate, and cinnamon, you could also sample their gelato, panna cotta, “caffe del nonno,” or just settle for a banana split.

Via Albalonga, 11. Open daily, except Monday 6:30 AM - 1:30 AM.

4. Free Music! If you time it right…

The Cornetto Free Music Concert held every year in Piazza San Giovanni. The Black Eyed Peas, Avril Lavigne, Duran Duran, Beck, Joss Stone, and Jamiroquai have played the event in the past. The festival, sponsored by the Cornetto ice cream empire, is normally held during the summer. Consult their official site for upcoming dates.

About the author: Sav D’Souza is a freelance journalist currently based in Rome. He has worked as a journalist in Hawaii, Prague, and London and contributed features to the Guardian, Daily Telegraph, SA Sports Illustrated, Prague Post and CNBC Europe. He is a demon pool player, enjoys a round of golf, playing poker, and the occasional gin and tonic.

Popularity: 12% [?]

Notre Dame de Lorette and Sacre Coeur. Photos by Liz Webber.

By Liz Webber in Paris—

Thanks in part to the cult of the Virgin Mary that spread throughout France in the Middle Ages, there are some 40-odd churches, chapels and basilicas named “Notre Dame” in Paris. Everyone knows about the famous cathedral, but what about the other 41 églises?

We present you with five of the largest and most interesting “Autres” Dames de Paris, representing the diverse quartiers of the city.

The Basilique Notre Dames des Victoires

Basilique Notre Dame des Victoires

One of two basilicas bearing the name “Our Lady” in Paris, you’ll find the Basilique Notre Dames des Victoires on the Place des Petit Pères in the 2nd Arrondissement. Construction began in 1629, financed by Louis XIII, who also gave the church its name. During the Revolution the Augustinian friars who lived there were expelled and Notre Dame des Victoires was converted into a stock market.

It reopened as a place of worship in 1809, but few congregants returned to the church. The local priest was about to call it quits in 1836 when he received a divine message telling him to reconsecrate the church to the “Immaculate Heart of the Very Saintly Virgin.” Soon, pilgrims were flocking to the site. The inside walls of the building are covered in plaques bearing the prayers of the faithful from around this time. Notre Dame des Victoires became a basilica in 1927.

Visiting: The building is open to the public 7:30 AM to 7:45 PM Monday through Saturday and 8:30 AM to 7:45 PM on Sunday.

Notre Dame des Champs

Notre Dame des Champs

The first divine being to be worshiped at this site was Mercury, the Roman god of commerce. When the first Christians arrived in the Paris region, they rededicated the existing shrine to Mary under the name “Notre Dame des Vignes.” King Robert the Pious (996-1031) decided to rebuild the church, and around the same time the name was changed to “Notre Dame des Champs” because the vines (“vignes”) had been torn down.

The church enjoyed fame under the reign of Louis XIV, but unfortunately the building was destroyed during the Revolution. The first stone of the current church was laid in 1867, in 1876 the building was dedicated, and the archbishop of Paris oversaw the consecration in 1912.

Notre Dame des Champs borders the 6th and 14th Arrondissements at 92 bis Boulevard du Montparnasse. The spacious nave lets in quite a bit of light, even on rainy days. To take a full tour of the church, follow the stations of the cross beginning at the front on the left side, continuing around the back and up the other side.

Visiting: Opening hours are between 9 AM and 12:30 PM and 2 PM and 5:30 PM, except for Sunday when the church closes at 5 PM.

Notre Dame de Lorette

I must admit to being a bit partial to Notre Dame de Lorette because it’s in my neighborhood in the 9th Arrondissement, at 8 bis Rue de Châteaudun. If you stand far enough down the Rue Laffitte, directly across from the front entrance, there’s an amazing view of Notre Dame de Lorette with Sacré Coeur looming in the background (see photo, above).

With its elaborate Corinthian columns and imposing Latin transcription over the door, it’s not hard to see that the church was modeled after Roman basilicas. The neoclassic architect Hippolyte Lebas designed the building, which was constructed between 1823 and 1836. (You’ll find a street bearing the architect’s name not far here, just a ways up the Rue des Martyrs.)

Visiting: Notre Dame de Lorette is open Monday from 11 AM to 7:30 PM; Tuesday to Friday from 7:30 AM to 7:30 PM; Saturday from 9 AM to 12 PM and 2:30 PM to 7:30 PM; and Sunday 9 AM to 12:30 PM and 2:30 PM to 7 PM.

Notre Dame de Clignancourt

Notre Dame de Clignancourt

The first stone of Notre Dame de Clignancourt was laid by the great civic planner Baron Haussmann in 1859, and it opened its doors in 1863. Eugenie, the wife of Napoleon III, endowed the church with furniture and objects of worship, much of which was plundered during the Paris Commune in 1870.

The interior of Notre Dame de Clignancourt is a bit dark, but it does have lovely modern stained-glass windows. The pretty chapel behind the altar is definitely worth a look. Located at 2 Place Jules Joffrin in the 18th Arrondissement, the church is directly opposite from the neighborhood’s mairie (town hall building), which is also an architectural gem.

Visiting: Notre Dame de Clignancourt is open from 9 AM to 12:30 PM and 2 PM to 7:30 PM, except on Sundays when it closes at 5:30 PM.

Notre Dame de la Croix

Notre Dame de la Croix

Notre Dame de la Croix is by far the largest church on our list. The steeple is visible from blocks away over the roofs of the surrounding buildings. To fully appreciate the enormity of the structure, start at the far end of Rue Etienne Dolet and walk up to the main entrance at 3 Place de Ménilmontant (in the 20th Arrondissement).

Originally, a small chapel opening in 1847 served the Catholic community in this neighborhood. However, the chapel became too small, and construction began on the current church in 1863. The work was interrupted by the Commune, but was finally finished in 1880.

Notre Dame de la Croix gets its name from a statue owned by the monks of Sainte Croix de la Bretonnerie that was hidden in the Ménilmontant neighborhood during the Revolution. The statue was stolen in 1975 and then recovered, but was later stolen again and never returned.

Visiting: The church is open Monday through Saturday from 7 AM to 7:30 PM; on Thursday until 10 PM; and Sunday 7:30 AM to 7 PM.

Discover more Notre Dames

To visit even more of the churches named for the Virgin Mary, you can try looking them up on the websites for each arrondissement, which all follow the same formula (example: the website of the 5th is www.mairie5.paris.fr). Once there, search for “lieux de culte” in the “rechercher” box. Not all the websites list places of worship, but it’s a good starting place.

Do you know of any other intriguing Notre Dame that we might have missed? Tell us about it in the comments section!

Popularity: 9% [?]

The Church of the Savior on Spilled Blood is one of the most famous sights in St. Petersburg, Russia. Although the Cathedral touts an old romantic style, it is, in fact quite young, constructed between 1883-1907.

Officially named the “Cathedral of the Resurrection of Christ,” the church was built as a memorial to the slain Tsar Alexander II of Russia, who was mortally wounded on the site in 1881. It was closed by the Bolsheviks in the 1930s, but reopened in 1997 after 30 years of restoration work.

When I visited St. Petersburg last month, I stopped by the church on my second night. I had heard that there were some masterful mosaics to behold inside. But I didn’t realize that the entire interior was covered in mosaics, from floor to ceiling–including the walls, arches, ceiling, and altar!

Indeed, the church contains over 7,500 square meters of mosaics, more than any other church in the world. Here are some of my photos from the interior. Remember, these mosaics are pieced together from tiny, tiny tiles…

Read more about the church on its website, including its history, near demolition, and use during the 20th Century as a warehouse for opera sets.

Popularity: 10% [?]

A rooftop view of Nicosia, Cyprus. Photo by Alex Christodoulides.

Editor’s Note: This week, the blog will be tagging along with fellow Cheapo Alex Christodoulides as she visits family in Cyprus.

NICOSIA, Cyprus—Nicosia has about a dozen churches of various styles and ages scattered through the walled part of the city, ranging from the Byzantine Chrysaliniotissa Church near the Green Line and the Famagusta Gate to the airy 19th-century Phaneromeni Church. Ayios Ioannis cathedral sounds larger than it is and has been through more change than its simple name suggests. Some, like Stavros tou Missirikou Church, have survived so many masters of Cyprus that their outward appearance would seem to indicate an identity crisis.

Chrysaliniotissa Church

Chrysaliniotissa Church keeps a low profile, literally, with its solid, reliable barrel vaults. Although it’s on a street that bears its name, it’s pretty unobtrusive if you arrive there from a back road – no sky-high bell tower makes it easy to spot miles away.

Inside is a respite from the heat and glare, thanks to thick stone walls. The iconostasis here is unusually wide, making for a shallow but broad seating area. Take a look at the Virgin Mary and Christ icons, where worshippers often leave offerings in silver or wax to symbolize requests or thanks for prayers answered.

Ayios Ioannis cathedral

The oft-reinvented Ayios Ioannis sits inside a complex that includes the Archbishopric and the Byzantine Museum and Art Galleries. So small it seems you could stretch your arms and almost touch both walls, the church was built in 1662 on the site of a 14th-century Benedictine chapel dedicated to St. John the Evangelist which subsequently became a Greek Orthodox church honoring St. John the Theologian.

The single-aisle building’s lavishly painted walls and ceiling depict scenes from the Bible and the major saints of the Orthodox Church, with the throng of faces clearing for a huge Pantokrator above the elaborate iconostasis. Shooting photos and video is not allowed inside the church, and a sign at the door says tour groups get five minutes to take it all in, but on quiet days the caretaker will let you take a seat to admire as long as you like.

Stavros tou Missirikou Church

Stavros tou Missirikou Church was built in the 16th century as a medieval Orthodox house of worship, but was converted into a mosque in 1571 when the Ottomans took over the island. The church has some Byzantine, Gothic and Italian Renaissance architectural elements, and a minaret added to one side of the building documents its time as a mosque, which is a lot to cram into a building that seats maybe 30 people. No longer used for ecclesiastical services, the church often houses exhibits.

Phaneromeni Church

Nearby is Phaneromeni Church, the largest in the walled city. Its tall, unadorned white walls seem to direct the worshippers’ gaze to the massive icons near the entrances and the intricately carved, painted and gilded iconostasis.

Phaneromeni Church is another where the faithful have left a collection of wax items hooked on the iconostasis rail to symbolize prayers made or answered. A constant trickle of worshippers drops by to kiss the icons of favorite saints or offer a quick prayer for an urgent request as a benevolent-looking Pantokrator gazes down on them from on high.

About the author: Alex Christodoulides is one of those push-me-pull-you creatures known as a dual citizen. When not at home in New York City (where she is a freelance writer) or in Cyprus (where she is a freeloader taking advantage of her relatives’ hospitality), she is probably dreaming of a trip to someplace where vaccinations are required and Fodor’s fears to tread.

Popularity: 17% [?]

A reception set up in the ruins of St. Donatian’s Church, now a Crowne Plaza. Photo by the Crowne Plaza Hotel.

For nearly one thousand years a massive stone church sat on Bruges’ Burg square. It was destroyed about 200 years ago, but parts of it remain today under a Crowne Plaza Hotel and can be visited for free.

Bruges’ Underground Church

Back around 900 AD, the city built a fort to protect itself from pesky Vikings who were raiding the city. Not long after, the very large and central St. Donatian’s Church was built on top of the fort and remained a place of worship until Napoleon ripped it down in 1799. Soon after, parts of the church were auctioned off.

Jump ahead to 1982, when the city’s Crowne Plaza Hotel was built on the site of St. Donatian’s. During the construction and excavation process, parts of the ancient fort’s foundations were discovered. Structures from the church were also uncovered, including the choir gallery, which was excavated in 1988.

The hotel has converted the basement into conference and reception rooms, lined by the ancient walls, and lit with a touch of drama. They’ve also put on display various relics unearthed in the area, many of which belonged to the church. Paintings show St. Donatian’s in all its glory.

Touring St. Donatian’s

As long as there isn’t a conference in session, visitors can tour the ruins simply by asking at the Crowne Plaza’s front desk.

When we visited recently, a nice porter led us downstairs and turned on the lights. We checked out the ancient walls, drawings, and other relics. Granted, the fresh carpeting, new ceiling, and conference tables can detract from the history on display, but just turn your attention to those walls!

Also see: Our recommended budget hotels in Bruges.

Popularity: 11% [?]