A villa in Tuscany. Photo by Nika.

By Pete Meyers—

A few years ago my wife and I pulled a daredevil stunt: We rented a 1,100 year old villa in Tuscany and invited both sides of our families to join us for a week-long vacation.

Now, before you ask “what were you thinking?” or say “that doesn’t sound particularly Cheapo, Pete,” let me explain further.

Yes, the villa we rented was admittedly off-the-charts decadent. It had seven large bedrooms, five bathrooms, a kitchen nearly as large as my current apartment, a billiard room, a dining room, a massive living room area, an in-ground pool whose gorgeousness was eclipsed only by its vineyard view, and—somewhat inexplicably—a separate, small chapel on the grounds. And just to round it off, there were also large stone lion statues adjacent to the front doors, greeting us upon our return from schlepping around the countryside.

But did we mention the entire week-long stay cost each person roughly $70 per night? Sure, you can beat the pants off that price at a number of our Editor’s Picks in Florence (while actually being in Florence rather than a 45-minute drive outside) but for everything that the villa had to offer, we felt the price was reasonable. And for the sheer experience of the endeavor we were willing to shell out a few extra euros.

But looking back on our trip, there are a number of tips and recommendations that would have been helpful to know when we were planning our stay. Here are some things to consider when renting a villa in Tuscany:

1. Prepare to “hub” it.

If you’re planning to explore a particular region - rather than just one specific city - renting a villa makes sense. Our villa was located near the village of Traversa, making it easy to “hub it” and visit Florence, Pisa, Siena, Cinque Terre, Bologna, and even Venice during our trip. Which brings us to our next tip…

2. Get ready to drive.

Rent a car and plan on driving it a lot. This might seem obvious to most, but prior to our trip we didn’t really consider how frequently we’d be driving around the region. Fortunately we had several eager drivers among us who were particularly adept with manual transmissions. Otherwise, we likely wouldn’t have strayed too far from our residence. Which, again, brings us to our next tip…

3. Get cooking.

While most villa rental agencies offer decadent, home-cooked meals on the premises at an extra cost, part of what made our experience so special was handling all meals ourselves (plus it saved a whole lot of money). There was never any shortage of ingredients at local markets for our nightly dinners and we found that a large part of our daily routine revolved around dinner planning. And we loved it.

4. Get ready for some family time.

For our group, part of what made renting a villa so special was traveling as a big family. Sure, we experienced our fair share of “I think it’s your turn to do the dishes” moments, but we still frequently reflect and laugh about our hysterical experience of sleeping in the Tuscan castle.

When renting a villa in Tuscany might not make sense

1. You don’t like your in-laws. Just kidding. Promise.

2. You don’t like driving through twisty, turny, slightly nerve-wracking roads. If this is the case, you might be better off staying in a city rather than in the winding hills.

3. When the math doesn’t work out. Budget wisely and consider all the incidental expenses of renting a villa. While the per person price of accommodation itself can be similar to that of  2 and 3-star hotels, you’ll also pay for food, car rentals, gas, electricity, a cleaning fee, and any other incidentals that spring up.

Websites that specialize in renting villas in Tuscany and elsewhere

There are many helpful websites that provide reservation services for villa rental throughout Europe. Most offer large format, high quality photos that should stir up your excitement. Here are a few that we recommend checking out:

Parker Villas - Specializes in villas through Italy. Parker Villas was one of the first villa rental agencies we discovered when we started our search.

Tuscany Now - Large listing of villas for rent in Tuscany, Umbria, Lazio, Sicily, and other regions in Italy.

VRBO - While not technically a villa reservation agency, VRBO does feature many properties in Tuscany and beyond, plus the rates tend to be a bit more reasonable.

Cuendet - Offers villas in Croatia, Italy, France, and Spain (and was the website we used when booking ours).

Tell us: Have you ever rented a villa in Italy or elsewhere? Share your experience with other Cheapos by leaving a comment below.

Popularity: 1% [?]

So many options at the Repetto Boutique. Photos by Theadora Brack

By Theadora Brack in Paris—

Shoe fanatic Louis XIV got the party started, while Marie Antoinette raised it to new heights. Still, shoe shopping in Paris still gleams brightly. With the recent openings of Printemps’ new three-level atrium and Galeries Lafayette’s brand-spanking-new showroom pumped with 12,000 designer shoes, the art of shoeing has never been more swagnificent. So for the love of Versailles, how does a hot-stepper avoid paying full price?

Lean in, Cheapos, and follow my lead.

Step One: It’s all in the timing

Get closer to Galeries Lafayette.

One way to avoid paying full price on shoes is to schedule your trip during either the big January or July sale periods. The upcoming “Soldes d’été” (summer sales) will kick off on Wednesday, June 30, 2010. Discounts range from 20 to 80 per cent off retail prices. Remember to know your European shoe size!

Step Two: Now, study the classics

For your browsing pleasure, may I recommend starting off with a little “window licking” (faire du lèche-vitrine) on the boulevards?

Whet your appetite in the swanky shopping districts along the Avenue des Champs-Elysées, Avenue Montaigne, Louvre-Tuileries, and Place Vendôme. Don’t forget the funky independent designers in Abbesses, the Marais, and Saint-Germain-des-Prés. But don’t buy! Just spy, and make note of what you fancy. Recognition will be your greatest asset at vintage shops and flea markets later on.

Repetto's Red, White, and Blues

Shoe-in at the movies

While you’re out and about, do swing by the Repetto boutique for a peek at their towering cubbyholes stuffed with satin ballet slippers in shades of pale. Brigitte Bardot and Repetto transformed the classic ballet flat into an iconic street shoe during the making of the 1956 film “And God Created Woman.”

Sex and the City fans, this tip’s for you! Dior is located next to the Église Saint-Germain-des-Prés, while Manolo Blahnik’s showroom is near Place de la Concorde. Blahnik also confected the shoes for Sophia Coppola’s “Marie Antoinette.” It was a piece of cake for the designer, no doubt!

Then, step into the past

This is also an excellent time to study other masters like Carven, Lanvin, Poiret, Rykiel, and Schiaparelli at the Musée Galliera and Musée de la Mode et du Textile. Exhibits change frequently, so always Google for current listings prior to your visit.

You’ll have no regrets if you stop by the Musée Edith Piaf to see the “Little Sparrow’s” black dresses, size 4 shoes, and her pocketbooks. Still need a shoe fix? Marie Antoinette’s slippers and a scale model of the Lanvin showroom are at the Musée Carnavalet in the Marais.

Vide-greniers captivate!

Step three: Knowledge pays off

With a few favorite designer names under your hat, it’s now high time to visit the vintage shops, designer stock shops (outlets), flea markets, brocantes (antique/junk sales) and vide-greniers (neighborhood-wide garage sales) scattered all over.

Cheapos, I often find treasures at the vide-greniers! This is where the locals empty their closets. My latest finds include Valentino Garavani heels in burgundy satin and pink snakeskin, red ballet slippers by Zara, and patent leather black sliders by Freelance. And none cost more than 15 euros! I also found three pair of Salvatore Ferragamo shoes. Back in the day, he created wonders for Mary Pickford and Marilyn Monroe. Imagine and sigh. His shoes usually retail for up to $500, but on this very rainy day, the dealer asked for just €10 a pop. Now that’s a Hollywood ending!

Step four: Give them TLC

“Cendrillon” (Cinderella), if you’ve found your match but they’re not quite perfect, never fear. Just take them to any shoe repair shop (”cordonnerie”) and have them resoled or reheeled. Repairs are usually quick and cheap—and well done. My favorite is located at 48 rue des Abbesses. Look for the little 1940s- automaton cobbler hammering away in the shop window.

Pinching yet another pointer from Dior, Cheapos, comfort always comes first!

Popularity: 2% [?]

A bridge on the harbor in Hamburg. Photo by Audrey Sykes.

By Audrey Sykes—

Hamburg, Germany’s great northern maritime city, deserves at least a weekend for exploration. From the moving World War II monuments to a bustling fish market, here’s a rundown on how to spend a cheap but worthwhile weekend in Hamburg.

Friday AM: Boats and beaches of the Elbe River

Cheap boat rides can be found along the Elbe River areas of Altona, Elbstrasse, and Landungsbrücken. They cost as much as a bus ride (about €1.60) and stop at many ideal places for eating, drinking, and sunning on the sandy beaches around the Elbe River. The Alster lake area is another option for organized boat tours.

Friday PM: Watching the St. Pauli Football Team

Snag tickets to one of the most raw, gritty, and hardcore soccer teams in Europe, the St. Pauli Football Team. St. Pauli has it all: a loyal fan base who love to party, sponsors like Hamburg’s signature Astra beer, and a skull-and-crossbones logo. It’s the “Harley Davidson” of European football.

Tickets range from €7-50. Check here for more information. The stadium is located near Feldstrasse, an area rich in World War II monuments, vintage shops, and a Saturday yard sale market.

Saturday AM:  Walking through Sternschanze

Stroll along the hip and bohemian Sternschanze neighborhood for a taste of Hamburg’s café terrace vibe and culture. Streets are lined with interesting boutiques, cheap eats, and bargain bars with a classic décor. A large park, the Planten un Blomen, is nearby – grab an ice cream and do some people-watching in the sun.

Saturday PM: Partying on Reeperbahn

Spend a night out on the Reeperbahn – Hamburg’s main party strip. See the blend of sailor roughness mix with trendy locals at the bars, music venues, clubs, and wurst stands. Beatle-maniacs should try out the nightlife around Grosse Freiheit, the street where the four “mop tops” made their European debut on stage and at parties.

Sunday AM: Stroll through the fish market

A Sunday morning in Hamburg is incomplete without a trip to the lively and exciting Fischmarkt. Located directly on the harbor from Reeperbahn S-bahn station, stroll around the dozens of seafood and produce stands. The market is action-packed with amusing characters and partygoers still out from Saturday night. Stop by anytime between 5 AM to noon.

Sunday PM: Historic Hamburg and the harbor

Spend the rest of Sunday walking along the Elbe River and surrounding harbor. Old harbor vessels permanently dock along the walkway as museums and cafés, and the surrounding area is a historic part of Hamburg undamaged from World War II.

Popularity: 1% [?]

Is that in Airplane Mode? Photo by Jorge Quinteros.

By Tom Meyers—

If you’re an American iPhone user getting ready to take a trip to Europe, you’ve likely been warned about using your iPhone abroad. After all, AT&T’s rates for international data use can be confusing, and misunderstanding your usage or iPhone setup could be a very costly mistake.

I just returned from two weeks in Europe, one spent in Paris and one in Venice. This was a work trip, during which I visited about 90 hotels for EuroCheapo. I brought along my laptop, but what to do with my iPhone? Was there an economical way to use it in France and Italy? Should I pay for one of the international data packages offered by AT&T? Should I just leave the thing in New York?

When taking a pleasure trip, I usually turn off my phone before blast-off and leave it off until I return to JFK. (This has become increasingly inconvenient, however, in recent years as connecting with friends abroad is obviously aided by sending text messages. Those, however, don’t always work with American cell phones and require international roaming, which puts you at risk of receiving phone calls from home — which will cost you.)

In any case, I realized that my iPhone could be handy. It’s nice to stay on top of emails, download the latest news from the New York Times, and be on my way. But how to do it without going broke?

Advice from AT&T

AT&T, the exclusive US carrier for the iPhone, offers a number of international phone and data packages for Americans taking their phones abroad. The day before take-off, I called and spoke to a customer service representative about my options.

Two weeks later I’m still “processing” that conversation. Let’s just say there are a lot of variables at play, including whether or not you expect to use your iPhone abroad to a) place international phone calls, b) receive international phone calls, c) send and receive emails, d) browse the web, and e) use iPhone applications. Each of these points carries its own possible traps and, of course, AT&T offers a “package” to address each issue.

Just want to make calls on your iPhone from abroad?

If you plan to use your phone to make and receive calls, you can opt for the AT&T World Traveler feature (currently $5.99 month), which gives you a discounted price for making and receiving calls. Using this feature, placing or receiving a call from France and Italy would drop from $1.29 to $.99 per minute. Not exactly cheap.

Don’t forget that receiving a call will also cost you – even if you don’t answer it. If the call connects to your phone, it’s billable.

Important: If you choose to only make and receive calls abroad, don’t forget to deactivate your data roaming. But we’ll get to that…

Sending and receiving emails and browsing the Web from abroad

For sending and receiving emails, browsing the web, and using applications, AT&T advises you to purchase an international data roaming package. Stay with me here. These packages are available in four sizes, from 20 MB of international data transfer (for $24.99) to 200 MB of international data transfer (for $199). (Prices current as of March 2010.)

So, say you go with the $24.99 package. What exactly does that mean? How many emails can you send and receive with 20 MB of “data transfer”? How many web pages can you browse? Which applications can you use? That, of course, depends…

Hence, my headache. I had read horror stories of travelers buying a data package only to find that they surpassed it early in their trip by opening some “heavy” email messages or browsing image-rich websites.

AT&T’s tips for avoiding a billing “surprise”

In AT&T’s customer service center, the carrier offers tips for avoiding these sorts of surprise. The tips, which are quite helpful, include:

1) Turn off data roaming.

You’ll find this under Settings > General > Network > Data Roaming. (To make it easy, the iPhone even says “Turn data roaming off when abroad to avoid substantial roaming charges when using email, web browsing, and other data services.) If you’re using your iPhone to simply make and receive phone calls, make sure you do this.

2) Turn fetch data “Off”.

This prevents your iPhone from automatically checking for emails. To access this, go to Setting > Mail, Contacts, Calendars > Fetch New Data. Switch “Push” to “Off” and click “Manually”. Once switched, you’ll have to manually tell your phone to send and receive emails.

3) Consider purchasing an international data package.

As I mentioned above, AT&T offers four data packages, ranging from $29.99 to $199. If you are planning, at any point during your trip, to use a data network to access the web or use emails, you are strongly advised to get some sort of plan. 

4) Reset the usage tracker to zero.

This is interesting. Under Settings > Usage, you can see how many MB of data you’ve sent and received since you last reset the statistics. Theoretically, then, you could reset your statistics, and then track your subsequent bandwidth – perfect for those who have purchased an international bandwidth plan, right?

The only hiccup with this, unfortunately, is that the stats aren’t always up-to-date. It turns out that AT&T can have substantial delays in reporting international data usage (as international carriers are actually providing you with the network and then, later, reporting it back to AT&T). This means, well, that you certainly can’t rely on this metric for tracking your use in real-time.

5) Switch to Wi-Fi instead of data networks.

Bingo.

Airplane is my answer

Having discussed the options to the point of delirium, I basically threw in the towel and chose the most extreme option. Unfortunately, I had this sneaking suspicion that even with an international roaming package in place, I’d carelessly open an email with a dozen photos of my cats and wind up with a $4,000 phone bill.

Thus, frustrated and paranoid, I opted for “Airplane Mode.”

Airplane Mode blocks phone and data networks from going into and out of your iPhone. Wi-Fi networks, however, are accessible. It basically turns your iPhone into an iPod Touch. Airplane Mode is accessible under Settings > Airplane Mode.

Flying solo

The decision to use my iPhone for two weeks in Airplane Mode meant, of course, that to send and receive emails I needed to access a free Wi-Fi network. It also meant that I wouldn’t be able to send and receive text messages or make phone calls. In a separate post, I’ll explain how I went about finding free Wi-Fi networks in Paris and Venice.

Of course, my simple “Airplane Mode” solution won’t work for everyone. Some travelers will obviously need to use their phones to send and receive calls and texts. Others will need predictable email and web service. For these users, I’d suggest calling AT&T, adding some international services, turning off “fetch,” and still using “airplane mode” whenever possible.

However, for Cheapos like me who simply need an occasional connection, consider flying on “Airplane Mode” during your trip. You’ll relax about charges and still have basic services.

Tell us: Have you taken your iPhone abroad? Do you have any tips for avoiding surprise charges? Do you think I’m a big wimp for relying on Airplane Mode for two weeks? Tell us about your experience in the comments section.

Popularity: 3% [?]

The famous Holocaust Memorial in Berlin. Photo by dalbera.

By Susan Buzzelli—

Between World War II and the Cold War, Berlin has a lot to remember. No wonder dozens of memorials and monuments grace the city. You could spend days tracking down every one of these free-to-see reminders dedicated to bygone events. (The city’s official list of “Denkmäler,” which include buildings, cemeteries, and other locations of historic note, is 941 pages long!)

Here’s a guide to our favorite memorials, including those that are on the well-beaten tourist path and those that are all-too-often overlooked by visitors.

1. Behren Strasse (U/S-bahn: Reichstag or Potsdamer Platz) is the wide avenue that runs alongside the Tiergarten park and connects Unter den Linden to Potsdamer Platz. Behrn Strasse is home to the U.S. Embassy, as well as two World War II monuments.

On the beaten path…

The Memorial to the Murdered Jews of Europe (Ebert Str. & Behren Str.), which is commonly known as the Holocaust Memorial, is a maze of steel gray “stele”, tomb-like slabs, that covers an entire block. Don’t forget to visit the subterranean documentation center for gripping, sobering exhibits about the victims of the Holocaust.

Off the beaten path…

Standing on the edge of the Tiergarten Park (on Ebert Str., between Behren Str. & Hannah-Arendt Str.), the Memorial for Gays Persecuted by Nazis is only a short stroll away from the Holocaust Memorial. Peek through the small “window” on the side of the 13-foot-tall concrete block to see a black and white film that depicts two men kissing. “A simple kiss could cause trouble,” reads the accompanying plaque.

2. Grosse Hamburger Strasse is a long, elegant avenue steps from Hackescher Markt. The street was once a center of Jewish life. It hosted one of the earliest Jewish cemeteries, as well as a home for seniors (marked with a plaque) and a school for boys (now the heavily-fortified Jüdische Oberschule, a school for children of all faiths). Today, the entire street is an open-air memorial to the Mitte’s once-vibrant Jewish community.

On the beaten path…

Will Lambert designed a bronze statue dedicated to the Jewish victims of fascism in 1957. Standing on the site of the long-destroyed Jewish cemetery, on the spot were Jews were deported to concentration camps, the somber memorial depicts a cluster of women and children awaiting their tragic fates.

Off the beaten path…

Installed in 1990 by the French artist Christian Boltanski, the Missing House (once at 15/16 Grosse Hamburger Str.) pays poignant tribute to one of the city’s many voids—in this case, a house that was never rebuilt after its 1945 destruction by Allied bombs. Twelve black-and-white plaques bearing the names, birth and death dates, and occupation of the building’s final residents adorn the facing walls of the two neighboring buildings. It’s a subtle, easy-to-miss tribute.

Continue north on Grosse Hamburger Strasse to reach the quiet, residential square of Koppenplatz. Standing on the northern side is a bronze statue of a table and two chairs, one of which is tipped over onto its back. The Memorial to the Deserted Room, by Karl Biedermann, pays tribute to the many Jews who were forced from their homes. It was installed in 1991.

3. Treptower Park (S-bahn: Treptower Park or Plänterwald) is an expansive stretch of green that runs alongside the Spree river in eastern Berlin. Big with picnickers, dog-walkers, and even boaters, the park is lined with gorgeous “Jugendstil” mansions and apartment buildings that reflect its history as a well-to-do district. It bears two intriguing traces of East Berlin architecture.

On the beaten path…

Occupying a massive swath of green, the gargantuan Soviet Memorial was built by the Soviet Union shortly after World War II to honor the Soviet soldiers who died in the battle for Berlin (1945-1949). Massive marble memorial plaques are overshadowed by the memorial’s focal point–a statue of a Soviet soldier, cradling a German child in his arms.

Off the beaten path…

Schlesischer Busch, a small, scrubby park north of Treptower Park, on the Treptow-Kreuzberg border (Puschkinallee), is home to a former Wachturm (watchtower) that’s been transformed into a small art gallery. Other than the concrete, graffiti-marred tower, there are no longer any traces here of the Berlin Wall that divided the city.

Tell us: Have you been to any of these memorials? Do you have another favorite monument or memorial that you’d like to add to our list? Tell us about it in the comments section.

Popularity: 2% [?]

By Pete Meyers—

Today we’re happy to welcome Pauline Frommer to our “Four Cheapo Questions” interview series.

Pauline is a one-stop shop for budget travel insight and advice, offering tips for “spending less and seeing more” on Frommers.com and in her “Pauline Frommer” guidebook series. In addition to her travel writing and editing, Pauline hosts a nationally syndicated radio show, makes frequent appearances on national TV, and is a regular speaker at travel events, sometimes alongside her father, Arthur Frommer.

1. Tell us about your travels. How often do you travel? Where are you heading to next?

Well, I just spent the last week going over my travel receipts for my taxes and discovered that in 2009, I was on the road for part or all of every month except September. I guess that’s pretty standard for me. My next trip is to Guatemala!

2. That’s a pretty busy schedule! Can you tell us a bit about yourself, your guidebook series, and your radio show?

Yes, I’m always busy, but in a good way. I think it was Justice Sandra Day O’Conner who said that the key to happiness is finding work worth doing. Though I would never claim to have had as much of an impact as she has (for better and for worse, I might add), I do have work that I love, and that I hope helps would-be travelers.

I’m the founder and managing editor of the Pauline Frommer guidebooks. We now have 14 in the series, from “Pauline Frommer’s Paris” to “Pauline Frommer’s Costa Rica” to “Pauline Frommer’s Italy“. (You can see the complete list at www.frommers.com/pauline.) Most are now in their second editions; I wrote four of the guides and edited the other 10.

The Pauline Frommer guides have the tagline: Spend Less, See More. And that’s what they’re all about: doing budget travel but in a smart way. They’re for travelers who want to save loads of money when they travel, but do so without sacrificing comfort. So while we do list hostels, we’re more likely to give people ideas about alternative accommodations such as farm stays, private B&B’s (where you stay in a local’s apartment and pay for a private room what you’d usually pay at a hostel), condo rentals, etc. We have the largest focus and have done the most research on alternative accommodations than any of the mainstream travel publications. Of course, we also talk extensively about affordable eating options, transportation, sightseeing, etc.

3. We dig the focus on alternative accommodations. What else sets your guidebooks apart from the others out there?

We also differ from the other series in a section we feature called “The Other.” This will be either a chapter or a section of a chapter on experiences one can have when traveling that allow the visitor to experience the country as the locals do.

So we’ll tell you about a great roving party that takes place in NYC (sometimes on the subways; people bring boom boxes onto a train after midnight and everyone dances). In Hawaii, we’ll alert you to opportunities to help scientists with the yearly whale count or with the sea turtles that nest there (this usually will take just a day from your vacation). In Las Vegas, we tell you how you can audit a class for dealers for an hour or two (it’s fascinating to watch them learn how to take gamblers) or attend a magicians “karaoke” night at a local bar, where they try out their tricks on one another. We’ll also tell you about chefs in Paris who hold small cooking classes in their homes; and the cafes in the City of Light, where you can attend a philosophical evening, as locals gather to discuss life’s great questions (in English), while quaffing wine.

These are just a few examples, but it’s a section of these guidebooks that have really struck a chord among our users.

4. What’s the best budget travel advice you’ve ever received?

I’m not sure if I “received” this, but I guess the advice I’d give from my long years of traveling is to never be shy about saving money. Often getting a discount simply means asking for one, or seeing if changing your travel plans slightly will garner you a discount.

Saving money is all about doing your research (so you know what the possibilities are for savings), being pushy (in a polite way!) and being flexible.

Bonus round! What are you most willing to splurge on when exploring a new city?

I guess my go-to splurge is on admission charges. I once had a writer I was editing tell me he hadn’t gone to a very well-known historic house because he was so disgusted by the entrance charge. I immediately replaced him (we needed that write up!). But I also didn’t like his attitude, which I thought was penny-wise and pound foolish. While I’d never splurge on a hotel, I think seeing great works of art or architecture are definitely worth paying a bit extra for.

Final question: What’s the best meal you’ve had for under €15 and where was it?

Can one count many, many scoops of gelato as a meal? If so, I’d recommend La Palma in Rome. If not, I’d have to say the wonderful liver and onion tacos I had recently in Mexico City, which cost about $2 total for the complete meal. Sorry that’s not in Europe, but that’s what’s on my mind right now.

Oh, and I also had an AMAZING pizza at DiMatteo in Naples. For the pie, we paid about $8, if I’m remembering correctly, but that fed my whole family (2 adults, 2 kids).

Thanks for taking the time to talk to us, Pauline! We’ll be taking a special look at “The Other” sections when we check out your upcoming editions. We wish we had known about the wine-and-philosophy chat during our last trip to Paris. Alas, there’s always next year… Happy travels!

Popularity: 2% [?]

A Vaporetto pulling into station. Photo: Tom Meyers

By Monica Cesarato in Venice—

Transportation around Venice can be very expensive—and I’m not even talking about using water taxis, which have a pricing system (yikes!) of their own. I am talking about “public transportation,” which in Venice mostly means taking the “vaporetti” (water bus) up and down the Grand Canal.

A single trip on a vaporetto costs €6.50, whether you take the boat for one stop or for a whole Grand Canal tour. Fortunately, however, there is a system designed for tourists that will help you save some serious money.

Tourist Travel Cards

In the last few years ACTV (Venice’s bus and boat system) realized that they had to come up with a tourist transportation card, so they created seven different types of “tourist travel cards,” each valid for a different period of time.

Travel cards are available for 12 hours (€16), 24 hours (€18), 36 hours (€23), 48 hours (€28), 72 hours (€33), three-day youth card (for people between 18-29 years old - €18), and seven-day cards (€50). (Prices are accurate as of March 2010. Visit the ACTV website for current prices.)

With these travel cards you can hop on and off any vaporetto (including those to the islands of Murano, Burano, and Torcello) and on all buses travelling within the city of Venice (including to Mestre and Marco Polo Airport). These cards eliminate the need to queue every time to buy a ticket and to carry change with you.

The tickets are not exactly cheap, but considering you have unlimited use of the transport system, they are well worth it. Just think how much it would cost you if you wanted to visit Murano-Burano and Torcello and you had to pay for each single trip.

Where to buy Tourist transportation tickets

You can buy these transport passes at any vaporetto stop (there are usually ticket offices at the stops, otherwise you can buy on board and the almost always speaks English), in Piazzale Roma (in the ACTV ticket office), or in any tobacco shop that displays the “ACTV” sign.

Tip: Combine transportation and museums in one pass

In 2009, the Comune di Venezia introduced a combined card for transport and museums that can save you up to 25% on a variety of museum passes. The savings varies depending on the period (low season, high season, special events, etc.).

Unfortunately, the card can only be purchased online and must be purchased more than two days before your arrival date in Venice. So the earlier you book it, the greater the saving. For more information and to buy a card, visit http://www.veniceconnected.com.

About the author: Monica Cesarato runs her own B&B on the Riviera del Brenta, just outside Venice. She also blogs about life in Venice and the Italian lifestyle http://www.monicacesarato.com.

Popularity: 2% [?]

Hadrian's Wall, near Salotto 42. Photos by Samantha Collins.

By Samantha Collins in Rome—

Fancy something different with your glass of wine during your stay in Rome? Try one of these three centrally located bars which all come with a little something extra to taste alongside your drink—whether your interest is cheese, books, or motorbikes….

Obika Roma Mozzarella Bar
Open from 10 AM to midnight
Piazza di Firenze (not far from Via del Corso)
Angolo Via dei Prefetti
website

What else to go along with your drink but a hunk of freshly made mozzarella? Giving a whole new slant on the “wine and cheese party” of the 70s, Obika is sleek and modern, serving a range of regional mozzarella cheeses including the famous DOP Buffalo Mozzarella produced in the Campania region by water buffalo. Obika also serves salads, snacks, and pasta and has a good selection of wines and coffee.

Outside Bar Salotto 42

Salotto42 Book Bar
Piazza di Pietra 42 (not far from Via del Corso)
website

Overlooking Hadrian’s Temple, this Roman book bar is styled on a New York penthouse. In fact, “salotto” means “living room” in Italian, and its decor of cozy settees, low slung coffee tables, CDs and magazines filling the walls (available to buy), encourages you to linger with a book, a glass of wine, or a pot of tea. €6 will get you a drink and aperitivo (and you can help yourself to a finger buffet) from around 7:30 PM.

Ducati Caffe’
Open 8 AM – 2 AM
Via delle Botteghe Oscure 35 (Largo Argentina)
website

This new bar is dedicated to the much loved Italian biking brand, Ducati. Displays of Ducati-related memorabilia, including motorbikes and a merchandise shop, are worth a look for anyone with a love of bikes and GP motocross. The bar also serves food, but it’s not the cheapest menu in the center. Better to enjoy a coffee and pastry or come in the evening, when you can find live music or cooking demonstrations. Check the website for the events calendar.

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A night out in Stockholm. Photo by morner.

By Marcus Cederstrom in Stockholm—

Alcohol is not cheap in Sweden. Especially not in Stockholm. There’s just no way around it. Stockholm is consistently ranked as one of the world’s most expensive cities and a night out can easily add up. It doesn’t have to, though.

What to order

First, learn the lingo. The Swedish word for beer is “öl,” the ö being pronounced kind of like the awkward “uh” that ends up filling space in all those speeches you had to give in high school. Most people when ordering a beer though don’t ask for an “öl,” they ask for a “storstark,” literally meaning “big and strong.” This will result in you being served house beer on tap. Usually a Swedish brand, Falcon, Pripps, or Spendrups.

Where to go

Start your night at Mest on Götgatan. There are two subway stations close by (Slussen and Medborgarplatsen). Until 9 PM, a storstark will run you 29 SEK (about €3). In a city where it isn’t unheard of to pay over 50 SEK (about €5) for a beer, this is a great place to start.

If you find yourself out on a Thursday night and need an English language fix (despite the fact that finding a Swede who doesn’t speak English is about as rare as a unicorn sighting), head over to Southside Pub. The Irish pub is two subway stations south of Slussen at Zinkensdamm. On Thursday nights, Southside hosts a free pub quiz. You’ll have the opportunity to test your knowledge of obscure trivia against a surprisingly international crowd. Plus, you’ll have the chance to win a beer or two.

Any other night of the week, just one subway station north of Slussen at Gamla Stan is the Liffey, another Irish pub. This one doesn’t offer a quiz on Thursday nights, but instead stand-up comedy. In English. Often times by Swedes. The show will cost you a 50 SEK (about €5) “donation,” which was by far the most mandatory “donation” I have ever experienced. Every other night of the week, the Liffey offers live music at one of their two stages.

Of course, after a night of music, trivia, and laughs, a kebab is necessary. Head back towards Medborgarplatsen. Just a couple of blocks south of the subway station on Götgatan, you can get a kebab in a pita for about 30 SEK (about €3).

In the end, depending on just how many of those storstarks you decided to have, you’ll have managed to explore Stockholm’s nightlife on a budget any Cheapo would envy.

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By Nicky Gardner and Susanne Kries—

Travelling around Europe, we are so often struck how the start dates advertised by new transportation operators are all too frequently hopelessly optimistic. On the whole, Europe’s rail companies are pretty good when it comes to sticking exactly to what they say in their pre-launch publicity. But airlines and ferries much less so, for the late delivery of a first aircraft or ship to a new venture can so easily lead to delays.

Over-optimism on the part of a new venture’s promoters, difficulties in securing regulatory approval, and under-capitalization are all potential pitfalls for which even the most lavish PR show cannot compensate. Some ventures never get going at all. Air Vardar, Air Maxi, and GetJet are just three of many European airlines that went bust before having flown a single revenue flight.

Planning your trip to Europe

So, as Cheapos plan their spring and summer travels around Europe, it is just worth checking on carrier details. If your itinerary relies critically on a new air or ferry route in its opening week or two of operation, just be aware that all may not go absolutely according to plan.

And if a flight or sailing is canceled, while the operator will usually quickly refund your fare, you may be left with a gaping hole in your travel schedule that can only be filled at very high cost. Those cheap promotional fares on offer from a wannabe airline or start-up ferry company may look great on paper, but if the venture folds or the launch is postponed, you may rue the day you opted for the new kid on the block.

Even well established carriers are not immune to such start up problems. In late 2008, Ryanair was due to launch a new Edinburgh base, but just a fortnight before starting a raft of new routes from the Scottish capital, delays in aircraft delivery forced the Irish carrier to defer its Edinburgh launch by six weeks.

False Starts: Two topical examples

This week has seen a few false starts as some carriers were just a shade too optimistic in their plans for new services. We mention just two here, by way of example. Fastnet Line announced that its new ferry link from Ireland to Wales would debut on March 1, 2010 - St David’s Day, always a treat in Wales. That was deferred after a last-minute glitch.

Some companies really specialize in false starts. Would-be ferry operator Euroferries has confidently promoted its claim to be the leading fast ferry operator on the English Channel. The company does not actually own a single vessel. Euroferries was due to debut on the Ramsgate (England) to Boulogne (France) route in March 2009, but has thrice delayed its start date since. Press reports late last year suggested that Euroferries would eventually set sail on March 1, 2010, and the publication of a timetable effective March 1 on the company’s website gave credence to those reports. But March 1 has come and gone without any ferry operations.

The bottom line

So the moral of this tale is that the misplaced optimism of others can all too easily wreck a traveler’s best laid plans. Check, check, and check again. And on the eve of departure try and ascertain if the service really will start as planned. It is often best to check by phone, as companies needing to postpone a launch are often slow in updating their websites. Bad news spreads too quickly on the internet.

Susanne and Nicky run a Berlin-based editorial bureau that supplies text and images to media across Europe. Together they edit hidden europe magazine. You can read more of their writing in their regular e-brief and in the Notes section on their website.

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