The port of Dubrovnik. Photo by Tambako the Jaguar.

By Audrey Sykes—

Ask any beach-savvy European and they’ll wax on about Croatia being the new, and more affordable, Mediterranean paradise. Dubrovnik especially emits a feeling of romance as its Old Town walls pair with the Adriatic like some majestic dream.

But like every beach diamond vacation, Dubrovnik is beginning to saturate itself with tourist traps and overpriced snags. To stay within the local cost range, here are some helpful tips:

1. Book (or don’t book) your hotel accordingly

Like many Mediterranean destinations, there are three ways to book accommodation: online, at the tourist offices, or from the hotel owners who linger at airports and bus stations. Heading to the tourist office is the least favorable, as it’s a hassle to locate and rates are rarely appealing. While booking online guarantees a reservation and a variety of room rates, it also lacks the real deals that owners are willing to offer upon your arrival.

That’s why the third option is your best bet for a great deal, if your stomach can stand arriving in town sans reservation. Most hotel owners are like a gentle, friendly mob waiting to greet the tourists. Take time to observe the brochures being displayed, especially as names might match up with ones in online guides and travel books.

Get a few quotes on prices before making a final choice; ask around to find a hotel that offers airport drop-offs, internet, breakfast, a good location, etc. The whole experience might seem a bit unusual and disorganized, but this advertising method is much more effective for mom-and-pop pensions.

2. Ferry and bus transport prices vary

Day trips out of Dubrovnik to nearby islands and small towns vary in price depending on time, day, and company. Simply expecting a list of options to be given at the ticket counter isn’t going to happen, so be prepared to ask. Workers generally speak enough English to answer inquiries about timetables and prices, so quiz the ferry port and bus station ticket desks with a paper and pen in hand.

Get a few quotes on midweek and weekend prices, as well as morning, midday, and evening departures. Another important thing to note is the return time. Off-season transport runs on a more sporadic schedule than the popular summertime, so get the round trip info figured out before setting sail.

3. Buy out of Dubrovnik’s “Old Town”

This advice may seem obvious, but it’s surprisingly intimidating to venture out of the picture-perfect walled city. For the best deals, however, strap on your adventure boots and get out of the tourist area for the real local gifts and wallet-friendly prices.

The district of Lapad is a beautiful neighborhood outside the Old City to stroll around. Shops and restaurants around the beach area streets of Šetaliste Kralja Zvonimira and Šetaliste Nika i Meda Pucica will carry a higher price tag than ones off the beaten path, but Lapad’s greenery and admirable architecture will make exploration a pleasantly satisfying one. Rentals for beach fun like snorkels and fishing are at a lower price than Old Town, so planning a day in the sand along Lapad is also worthwhile.

Just like any knowledgeable traveler will know, doing a little research before arrival will really help you out. However, having the confidence to interact with locals and venture away from the masses can be just as helpful and cost-effective, especially in budding tourist towns.

Popularity: 3% [?]

Reims' Notre Dame Cathedral. Photo: RuiPereira

By Liz Webber—

Looking for an easy day trip from your Paris vacation? Why not visit Reims (oddly pronounced with a nasal “Ranse”), the coronation site of French kings and the epicenter of the Champagne region. Here we’ll explain how to get there and some suggested sights while you’re there–and where to get a great lunch for Cheapo prices!

Getting to Reims from Paris

From Paris’ Gare de l’Est, Reims is just 45 minutes on the TGV. The SNCF website is currently offering special fares of €34 roundtrip, but the journey normally runs €40-€50. For the return trip, beware of trains departing from “Champagne-Ardenne,” which is actually in Bezannes, about 3 miles away from Reims.

Historical Sights

Reims’ Notre Dame Cathedral, on the Place Cardinal Luçon, dates from the 13th Century. Thirty-two French kings were crowned at this cathedral, today a UNESCO World Heritage site. The church is open every day from 7:30 AM to 7:30 PM.

Next door, the Palais du Tau houses such artifacts as Charlemagne’s talisman and the chalice of Saint Remi, whose baptism of Clovis in 496 led to the conversion of the entire Frankish kingdom. From May 6 to September 8, the museum is open from 9:30 AM to 6:30 PM; from September 9 to May 5, opening hours are 9:30 AM to 12:30 PM and 2 PM to 5:30 PM. The palace is closed on Monday. Tickets are €7.

In Pommery's cellar. Photo by Éole

Speaking of Saint Remi, swing by the basilica that bears his name (Place Chanoine Ladame) to catch a glimpse of the saint’s tomb and the 12th-century stained glass windows. The basilica is open from 8 AM to 7 PM.

The Champagne Houses

Several of the biggest names in Champagne production–like Mumm, Veuve-Cliquot, and Taittinger–have cellars in Reims that tourists can visit to find out how bubbly is made.

A tour of the Pommery Estate is definitely worth the trip. Located at 5 Place Général Gouraud, it’s about a 30-minute walk from the cathedral. Several English-language tours are available throughout the day. The visit includes a trip down into 11 miles of labyrinthine cellar tunnels (originally Gallo-Roman chalk pits), and of course a glass of the good stuff at the end.

Tickets for the Pommery tour start at €10, depending on the quality of Champagne you’d like to sample and whether or not there is a special exhibit going on. While Pommery is one of the few cellars where advance bookings are not required, it can’t hurt to reserve your ticket before you go. From April through mid-November, the estate is open every day from 9:30 AM to 7 PM; from mid-November through March (excluding Christmas Eve through New Year’s Day) opening hours are 10 AM to 6 PM.

Where to Eat

There are plenty of restaurants in the center near Reims’ cathedral, but to get away from the touristy venues head to Les Charmes (11 Rue Brûlart) on the walk to the Pommery Estate. The three-course prix fixe lunch can’t be beat at €12.80. The menu varies, but you’ll find French-Asian fusion dishes like shrimp and quinoa salad and soy chicken with a potato pancake and tomatoes.

Popularity: 6% [?]

A view of Lake Albano at Castel Gandolfo. Photos by Claire Chaffey.

By Claire Chaffey in Rome—

As the age old saying goes, “when in Rome, do as the Romans do.” Many Romans (the Pope included) who have tired of eating glorious food, sipping on a hearty red, and throwing down a few espressos head for the hills. Literally.

More specifically, they get themselves to one or more of the tiny villages, known as the Castelli Romani, clustered together in the Roman Hills. Conveniently, they are all no more than a 40-minute train or bus ride away from Rome, and the journey costs no more than a few euros by train and only €1 by metro.

A visit to any of these unique little towns makes a fabulous day trip! Here are three of our favorites:

Sampling the local vino in Frascati.

Castel Gandolfo

This beautiful little town overlooks the turquoise and picture-perfect Lake Albano and lies around 30 km from Rome. While its claim to fame is being home to the Pope’s summer residence, its real charm lies in the gorgeous little piazza which marks the town center and the swathe of little eateries which adjoin the piazza or overlook the lake. And, in case you’re feeling energetic, there are kayaks and canoes for hire.

How to Get There: Trains to Castel Gandolfo run from Termini and leave about every hour. It will take about 40 minutes to get there and a round-trip ticket will cost €3.80.

Frascati

For the Romans, this is perhaps the most popular of the Castelli Romani. There are three reasons for this: vino, vino, and vino!

Essentially, this village exists for making wine, and it is surrounded by quaint little farmhouses and rolling vineyards. The old town center is home to numerous cellars which offer wine tasting and allow you to take in your own food. Before sampling the famous and delectable local white, you can while away a few hours by visiting the regal Villa Aldobrandini and the ornate Basilica of St. Peter the Apostle.

How to Get There: The cheapest and most convenient way to get to Frascati is by bus, which leaves every 20 minutes from bus stop 6 at Anagnina (the last stop on Metro Line A). Metro tickets run €1 and cover the entire journey. Alternatively, trains leave Termini every hour, and a round-trip journey will cost €3.80.

The streets of Ariccia.

Ariccia

This fantastic little village is full of delicious food. Ariccia is famous for porchetta, thick cut pork slow roasted in fennel and herbs. One needs no other reason to come here except to go in search of this ridiculously tasty regional specialty. The best place to try porchetta is in one of the town’s many fraschettas, which also serve up other regional specialties in noisy, rustic old taverns. Otherwise, grab a panino on the street, which is almost as good!

How to Get There: Buses to Ariccia leave about every 20 minutes from Anagnina bus station. The journey takes about 30 minutes and costs the price of a metro ticket (€1).

About the author: Claire is a freelance journalist currently eating and drinking her way through Rome following a stint as a reporter in West Africa. Claire’s work has appeared in the Sydney Morning Herald, TNT Magazine, Way2Go Magazine and the Ghanaian Times.

Popularity: 6% [?]

Ancient ruins in Ostia Antica. Photos by Claire Chaffey.

By Claire Chaffey in Rome—

Ostia Antica, one of Italy’s most interesting and best-preserved archaeological sites, is also one of the country’s best-kept secrets. Well, that’s certainly the impression one gets when arriving there, due to the distinctly unusual tranquility of the place, and the conspicuous lack of tour groups, roving guides, and buses.

Considering that Ostia Antica is only a 30-minute train ride from the center of Rome, it is truly worth a visit!

History

Highlights of the former port’s long and colorful history include its establishment by a legendary Roman King sometime around the 7th century B.C (though no-one really knows for sure), frequent raids by arson-loving, river-hopping pirates, being overtaken by numerous Roman emperors who tarted the place up in accordance with current architectural trends, being the place where Santa Monica–the patron saint of married women–died in a local pub, slowly evolving into a country retreat for idle Roman aristocrats, and eventually falling into abandonment and decay somewhere around the 9th century A.D. (Whew!)

Mosaics in the Roman baths.

Ostia Antica today

Today, Ostia Antica is a sprawling stretch of painstakingly restored ruins which, despite their age, successfully retain the essence of the city’s former complexity and grandeur.

The best thing about Ostia Antica is the fact that, apart from practically having the place to yourself, you can wander around the ruins and easily imagine what it was like to have lived in a thriving and cosmopolitan city like Ostia. You can imagine buying your fruit and vegetables at one of the many shop fronts which line the main thoroughfare. Or, marvel at the almost flawlessly preserved mosaics which formed the hot and steamy Roman baths. Why not have a go at worshiping the sun god in one of the spectacular pagan temples? (Or you could imagine what it was like trying to get a little privacy with twenty other people with you in one of the many communal latrines….)

The Castle of Julius II

Your tour guide awaits...

Once you have spent a couple of hours walking amongst and climbing over the ruins, it is worth going to have a peek at Castle of Julius II, located just across the road. The castle is situated in the gorgeous little Piazza della Rocca, in which Ostia’s inhabitants go about their daily business and several plump and friendly local cats will happily escort you around.

Getting there and getting in

Take the metro to “Piramide Station” on Line B. From there, get on the city urban line towards “Lido di Ostia.” Get off at “Ostia Antica,” cross the footbridge and follow the signs. Trains leave every half hour and the fare is covered by a €1 metro ticket.

Entry fee is €6.50 for adults over 25. Those between 18 – 25 get in for half price. If you’re under 18 or over 65, you don’t have to pay at all! Open between 8:30 AM – 6:00 PM. Closed Mondays.

Cheapo tip: The eateries in Ostia Antica aren’t fabulous, unless you are willing to pay a little more than you probably want to. So, if possible, pack your lunch!

About the author: Claire is a freelance journalist currently eating and drinking her way through Rome following a stint as a reporter in West Africa. Claire’s work has appeared in the Sydney Morning Herald, TNT Magazine, Way2Go Magazine and the Ghanaian Times.

Popularity: 14% [?]

Signs guide the way outside London. All photos by Justin Bergman.

By Justin Bergman in London—

Getting out of London is remarkably easy. Sure, unless you’re taking a train, you do have to wind your way through the endless suburbs first. But once you cross the busy M-25 ring road, the scenery changes dramatically. Suddenly, you’re in the English countryside of Jane Austen novels.

The best way to explore the bucolic rolling hills, sheep farms, and stone villages outside London is not behind the wheel of a car, but on foot.

I had my first experience with country walking last weekend. My boyfriend and I rented a City Car (London’s version of a Zipcar) and drove about an hour to the west to the Chiltern hills, where I’d read there was good walking. We grabbed a footpath map and walking directions at a shop in the village of Hambleden and off we went. Seven miles seemed like a good enough challenge. We’d be back before dinner, no problem.

I should have known it wasn’t going to be that easy from the first set of instructions on our map: “At a right-hand bend, fork left onto the right-hand of two paths (LE38), a gravel drive. Now go straight on, soon joining and following a left-hand boundary bank and ignoring a crossing path.” We must have looked for that stupid left-hand boundary bank for a good 30 minutes.

A quintessential countryside scene.

We eventually got the hang of it, though, and figuring out the directions became part of the fun. Plus, the scenery couldn’t have been more magnificent.

Because the public is legally permitted to cross all private land in the countryside, the footpath cut right through people’s farms, bringing us up close and personal with the cows and sheep. It also took us into beech-tree forests that were so dark and dense, they felt almost primeval.

Here are some tips on taking your own countryside walk:

1. Get a good map

Many footpaths are not signposted, so you need to find a map that includes very clear instructions on how to find your way. In most larger towns, you’ll be able to find one at a tourism information office; in villages, look for a food shop.

The Chiltern Society has 27 different walking maps of the hills west of London. Another good resource is the Guardian newspaper, which published an excellent series of “Great British Walks” this summer.

2. Be prepared

It should go without saying, but don’t embark on a five- or seven-mile hike without proper walking shoes, water and a cell phone in case you get lost. (Some guides even recommend bringing a compass.) The weather in England is famously unpredictable, so plan for the possibility of rain even on a sunny day.

If you do lose your way, look for a well-groomed path (the larger ones are called “bridal paths”) and follow it until you reach civilization. England is a small country—every path leads somewhere.

Admiring a cow from a safe distance.

3. Respect people’s property

When entering a farm, make sure to close and latch the gate behind you. And keep a safe distance from cattle—there have been isolated incidents of people being chased and attacked by ornery cows. Most importantly: Never get between a cow and her calf unless you are looking for a fight.

4. Dress for the conditions

Footpaths can be overgrown with grass and prickly weeds in the summer and fall, and you may have to make your way through dense vegetation or even crops. Long pants and a long-sleeved shirt are recommended.

5. Don’t drink and walk

You’ll regret having that pint of beer with lunch when you’re three miles into an afternoon trek. Save the country pub until after your walk. A great pub in Hambleden is The Stag & Huntsman, which has picnic tables in the large garden out back and serves a delicious pork and apple burger.

About the author: Justin Bergman is a freelance writer whose work has appeared in The New York Times and Monocle magazine. He’s also previously worked for Budget Travel magazine and the Associated Press.

Popularity: 8% [?]

The hills of Fiesole. Photo by clickykbd.

By Marc Anani in Florence:

Florence—architectural empress, city of beauty, city of love. Florence—city of body jams, packed piazzas, and tourist traps. The hoards of keen tourists can be exhausting and if you’re like me, you just want a little patch of peace from time to time to re-sharpen your explorer senses.

Enter Fiesole, a charming village on Florence’s doorstep.

How Fiesole Came to Be

A former walled city founded by the Etruscan civilization in the 7th century BC, the city of Fiesole is best known as a Roman colony and military nemesis of its neighbor Florence.

Its altitude above the hills and strategic location for surveying the region’s rivers made it a prized jewel for conquerors, namely the Romans who eventually made Fiesole a colony in 90 BC. In the early Middle Ages, Fiesole was more powerful that Florence, and the two cities fought several wars. Over time, Florence won the city over, which led the rich residents of Renaissance Florence to build their villas in Fiesole.

How to Get There

Take public transit bus no. 7 from Florence for a short 20 minute ride up through twisting Tuscan roads. You can check bus schedules at ATAF.net.

For the brave wishing to save, there are trails leading downhill back to Florence. The tourist office just off Fiesole’s main square (Piazza Mino) where the bus drops you off will be able to give you more information about walking trails and things going on.

What To Do in Fiesole

One good reason for visiting Fiesole is to take in its awesome view of Florence. Its altitude of almost 1,000 feet will allow you to peer over Florence from either of Fiesole’s two peaks: the S. Francesco or the S. Apollinare. I recommend enjoying a picnic just below the San Francesco Monastery to take in Florence’s panorama. Pass by the Coop supermarket just off Piazza Mino for picnic supplies instead of sipping an overpriced soda at one of the cafés lining the piazza.

Be sure check out Fiesole’s Roman theatre, which hosts outdoor plays, films and concerts in the summer evenings. Access to the Roman theatre and adjoining archeological site will cost you around €6, which isn’t too expensive for the city’s main attractions.

Other attractions include the Cattedrale di San Romolo (the town’s Duomo), the Museo Bandini (whose collection includes pieces by Michelangelo) and the Museo Missionario Francescano Fiesole (below the San Francesco Monestary), where you’ll find more Etruscan and Roman archeological treasures.

Did you Know?

Herman Hesse, the Nobel Prize winning author of “Siddhartha” and “Steppenwolf” often spent time in Fiesole, as he felt inspired by both the Fiesolan countryside and its residents.

Useful Links

Fiesole Tourism Site
City of Fiesole Main Site
Fiesole Cultural Program

About the Author: Marc Anani is a fiction writer living in Tuscany.

Popularity: 6% [?]

Photo by Jill Stowe

If there is one ancient site outside Athens you absolutely should not miss during your Athens sojourn, it’s the Temple of Poseidon (admission: €4; +30-22920-39363) at Cape Sounion.

You could make the approximately 90-minute drive on a bus as part of a €34 tour, but we recommend the less expensive and just as efficient public bus (+30-210-821-3203). If you travel by public bus, you won’t be restricted by a tour schedule. As an added benefit, you’ll have the option of stopping off in Vougliamenis, Voula, or Varkiza for a swim or drink by the beach. Alternatively, you can opt to climb down the hill in Cape Sounion and swim there, hiking back up to the café by the Temple of Poseidon to drink a coffee or fruit juice afterwards.

The bus to Cape Sounion departs from Mavromateon and Ioulianou Streets—you can also catch it at Klafthmonos Square or on Filellinon Street—in Athens every 60 minutes every day of the week, from 6.30 a.m. to 5.30 p.m. Buses return to Athens every 30 minutes, starting at 5:40 a.m. weekdays and 7:30 a.m. on Sundays and holidays, the last bus leaving Cape Sounion at 6 p.m. The fare is €4.90 each way.

Popularity: 12% [?]

Photograph by jenojenny

Take the 44 bus from Piazza Venezia and you’ll find the unimaginable: a slice of Rome untouched by tourists.

Monteverde Vecchio, situated on Rome’s highest peak, is almost exclusively residential. Shopping is limited to neighborhood establishments. In addition to priceless views from Janiculum Hill, Monteverde offers a snapshot of everyday Roman life.

Get off the 44 just after passing through the set of arches, and make sure to arrive hungry. Across the street, the Archi Bar serves Peroni and acceptable panini to American University of Rome students. Just around the corner on Via Carini, Pizzeria da Simone serves the best pizza al taglio in Rome.

Afterwards, walk west down one of the side streets towards shop-lined Viale di Villa Pamphili, stopping along the way in little specialty stores. From there, check out Villa Doria Pamphili, Rome’s largest public park. Villa Pamphili also has plenty to see: sculptured gardens, vine-tangled statuary, and multiple villas, including the massive Baroque Casino and an antiquities museum in Villa Vecchia.

Click the bottom left corner of this map for details.

Popularity: 10% [?]