Christmas magic at Gendarmenmarkt. Photo by slaqua.

By Susan Buzzelli—

Berlin is downright chilly (and even a little bleak) in winter. But, as the Germans love to say, there’s no such thing as bad weather; it’s inappropriate clothing that makes you cold. As long as you bundle up in the thickest of coats, socks, soles, gloves, hats, and boots, the chill won’t slow you down.

Keeping warm the glühwein way

For guaranteed warmth, employ our favorite weapon against the cold: Glühwein.

Sold in festive mugs at the city’s dozens of Christmas markets, this spiced, hot wine warms you from the inside out. It costs about €5, including a deposit for the mug. Trust us, however: This giddiness-inducing beverage is worth the splurge. It’s like holiday spirit in a glass.

Our favorite Christmas markets in Berlin

Germany’s capital isn’t as famous as Dresden, Munich, and the Ore Mountains for its annual Christmas markets (roughly late November–Dec. 31; opening times vary), but it doesn’t hurt to check out one or two of the more than 20 markets that spring up in the city every year.

Because most markets are free (or inexpensive) to enter, they’re a Cheapo-friendly way to spend the evening. Snacks, which include sausage roasted over a wood grill, fresh gingerbread, potato pancakes, roasted chestnuts, and much more, won’t break the bank, either. If you’re in the market for gifts, you can often score handcrafted items—from knit scarves and mittens to handmade jewelry—for reasonable prices.

In addition to our three favorite markets, detailed below, check out the Berlin tourist office’s complete list of the city’s 22 markets.

Très Elegant Market: Gendarmenmarkt

The classiest of Berlin’s Christmas markets occupies Gendarmenmarkt (S- and U-bahn: Friedrich Strasse, Brandenburger Tor, €1), an elegant square in Mitte, between Friedrich Strasse and Unter den Linden. Lined with neat rows of pitched white tents adorned with golden lights, the market features craftsmen who produce delicate wooden combs, birdcages, precious stone jewelry, and more on the spot.

Sweets on offer at a Christmas market stall. Photo by tunnelarmr.

Kitschy Fun Market: Winterwelt am Potsdamer Platz

The expansive Winterwelt am Potsdamer Platz (S- and U-bahn: Potsdamer Platz) is stocked with red and white striped stands hawking the usual food and handicrafts. You can also take a twirl on a small iceskating rink (entry is free; ice skate rental is €2.50) or, if you reserve ahead, play a round of “Eisstockbahn,” a wintry version of bowling.

Illuminated with environmentally-friendly LED lights, this market is touristy but atmospheric. Don’t forget to pop into the Sony Center, which is decorated with some 41,000 icy blue lights.

Cozy Market: Lucia Weihnachtsmarkt in der Kulturbrauerei

Nestled in the expansive courtyard of a red brick beer brewery-turned-cultural complex in Prenzlauer Berg, the Lucia Weihnachtsmarkt in der Kulturbrauerei (U-bahn: Eberswalder Str.) is a quaint affair with a Finnish vibe. Look for Finnish Glühwein, honey, and textiles. If you happen to visit on a Sunday, wander over to Kollwitzplatz (Dec. 13 and 20) to check out its small, weekly market, which specializes in organic food and gifts.

Popularity: 5% [?]

A vrai Parisian pasttime, drinking in the park. Photos by Theadora Brack

By Theadora Brack in Paris—Paris is made up of more than just good wine. And locals here know not to ignore the other French cylindrical dandies of the drink world. Give us your liqueurs, your full-bodied bitters, your anisés and wild gentians! The mind reels with all the other possibilities.

Drink specials

Here’s a short list of apéritifs—along with a few daytime touring suggestions to go with your drinks— that’ll help you ease into the evening in harmonious style. So, during “l’heure de apéritif” (the gateway to dinner), you can kick back with a journal or sketchpad avec a cold beverage, and look and feel like a vrai local.

Something old in Montmartre

Local Laurent demonstrates the art of the Picon.

Hankering for a taste of the past? Order a Picon. Created by Gaétan Picon in 1837, this bittersweet blend of oranges and deep blue gentian flowers is typically served with a demi-pression (small draft beer), into which you pour the Picon-bière. Aromatic and richly colored, the orange-toffee flavored brew combines with the hops to pack a potent punch. Take caution! “Just one,” smartly advised local film editor Laurent, “otherwise you just might tumble down.”

Everything tastes better in context. So, if you’re in Montmartre, work up your thirst with a stroll by Van Gogh’s old digs at 54 rue Lepic, Picasso’s studio at the Bateau Lavoir (13 Rue Ravignan), or the Chat Noir at 84 Blvd. Rouchechouart (where Erik Satie tickled the ivories). If you still aren’t parched, check out the old zinc bar exhibited at the Musée Montmartre.

Something new (er) in St-Germain

After the 1915 ban on Absinthe, folks had to make do with Pastis, which tastes nearly the same but no longer induces appearances of la Fée Verte (the Green Fairy) as the hallucinogenic muse of artists and poets. Opalescent green in color with a distinctive anise taste, it’s usually mixed with water and ice. For a literary twist, add champagne instead of water for a concoction Ernest Hemingway lovingly called, “death in an afternoon.”

Promenading through St-Germain? Look for the former residence of Julia Child at 81 rue de l’Université (she had her own homemade absinthe recipe!), or the Closerie des Lilas, where a plaque embedded in the bar marks Hemingway’s favorite seat. Visit the Musée d’Orsay. Note those cloudy green glasses in the works of Degas, Lautrec or Van Gogh.

Something borrowed in the Marais

In 1885 Fernand Muraux found a recipe in Switzerland and introduced Suze (named for a Swiss river). Another gentian-based apéritif, this old-fashioned bar favorite is normally served on ice with equal parts water or orange juice. Make a conversation piece of it by challenging your drinking companions to describe its strange and peculiar flavor! Picasso once said, “I put all the things I like into my pictures—too bad for the things, they just have to put up with it.” Check out his 1912 collage “Verre et bouteille de Suze.”

While meandering through the Marais, visit the Musée Picasso or Musée Carnavalet (where you’ll spot Steinlen’s original Chat Noir sign!).

Something blue in Montparnasse

Say “Kir” for a classic (and classy) refresher made of crème de cassis (a blackcurrant liqueur) in white wine. Originally called blanc-cassis, it was named for Canon Félix Kir, the Mayor of Dijon who popularized it when the good red Burgundy was confiscated during the German Occupation. As usual, brewmaster Hemingway made his own version with vermouth, called “Chambéry Cassis.”

Afternoon aperitifs near Picasso's old haunt.

Take a break from hobnobbing in Montparnasse with a visit to the Musée Montparnasse. Also hit up Hemingway’s house at 70 bis rue Notre Dame des Champs, or see where Gertrude Stein held court at 27 rue de Fleurus (where Papa was a frequent caller). For real café-culture ambience, try Le Select at 99, Boulevard Montparnasse.

Bon Voyage et Santé, Cheapos!

Popularity: 8% [?]

Locals take a water break in the Jardin des Tuileries. Photos by Theadora Brack.

By Theadora Brack in Paris—

“When the well is dry, we know the worth of water, my friend,” quipped famed Francophile and frugality fan Ben Franklin.

Fortunately, in Paris there are 108 “fontaines Wallace“ and three functional “puits artésien” (artesian wells). Situated around the city’s busiest squares and at intersections in each arrondissement, the water is free for sipping; all you will need is an empty bottle.

Wallace 101

The “puits artésien,” with their over-sized faucets made of chrome, certainly possess that sleek French chic we associate with marvels like the TGV, but my heart belongs to Wallace. 

“Les fontaines Wallace” were named after the British philanthropist and art collector Sir Richard Wallace, who generously financed the installation of 50 fountains throughout Paris after the Franco-Prussian War left the city with almost no clean drinking water. Designed by Charles Auguste Lebourg, these cast iron fountains in four versions remain iconic darlings of the Paris streetscape. They are uniformly painted a deep emerald green.

The largest model, nicknamed the “Brasserie des quatre femmes” (brewery of the four women), sports four fetching caryatides, each symbolizing kindness, simplicity, charity, and sobriety. The figures are draped in sinuous tunics that are pinned just-so to reveal a handsome knee. Ooh la la!

The infamous puits artésien in Butte-aux-Cailles.

Artesian… well!

Grab your bottle and follow me to my favorite “puits artésien” in Paris. In the 13th arrondissement, in the quaint little village of Butte-aux-Cailles (Quail Hill), at Place Paul-Verlaine, an historic well has been in operation since 1866.

Many locals, like actress Nausicaa Giavarra—with whom I spoke on a recent trip to Butte-aux-Cailles, count their lucky stars to live nearby one of the old fountains. Each day, Giavarra fills a dozen water bottles along with a small plastic atomizer.

“I mist my face throughout the day. This place is my fountain of youth!” she told me.

Across the street from the fountain is one of the oldest Parisian public “piscines” (swimming pools) fed by the pressurized well water. Both are worth a look.

A Wallace fountain at Place des Abbesses.

To visit this delightful watering spot, take the Metro to “Corvisart” or “Place d’Italie.”

Tip: After topping off your bottle, check out the surrounding hilly, cobblestoned neighborhood. Once an infamous red light district (prostitute=quail), Butte-aux-Cailles now offers an impressive number of cheap eats, bars, and shops, but few tourists. You’ll feel like you’ve stepped back in time.

Practical Information

For a full list of “les fontaines Wallace” in Paris, click here. Another good list is available here, though it’s only in French.

Finally, I can’t resist leaving you with a cinematic tidbit: In the 2001 film “The fabuleux destin d’Amélie Poulain,” Amélie’s concierge was named “Madeleine Wallace” because she cried like a Wallace fountain.

About the author and photographer: Theadora Brack is a writer working in Paris. Her fiction has appeared in more than 30 literary publications, including 3AM International, The Smoking Poet, Beloit Fiction Journal, Mid-American Review, and the Haight-Ashbury Literary Journal.

Popularity: 7% [?]

Typical fare at Buenas Migas Focacceria; photo by Ian Kershaw

By Regina W. Bryan in Barcelona—

If you’re a foodie, Barcelona can get spendy. To add insult to injury, it also has the unfortunate reputation of offering overpriced, mediocre meals. While there are some fantastic Michelin starred restaurants in the city, Cheapos in need of good grub require other options.

No te preocupes (Don’t worry!). Here are five cheap eats that will ensure a full belly, and plenty of extra pocket change for all those Gaudi postcards you’ll send back home. They may not be glamorous, but their fare is tasty and oh so inexpensive.

1. Woki
Asturies, 22
Gracia

One of my all-time-favorites, Woki is located in the vibrant Gracia neighborhood, but also benefits from two other locations, one on the beach in Barceloneta and another in Borne (Carders, 6).

Simply select a noodle or rice base for €4 and then add ingredients (starting at €1.30 each). Finally, choose a free sauce, which can be anything from Thai, Hoi Sin or the “House Sauce.”

Hand in your order and the Woki team throws it all together on an enormous wok right in front of you. Since there’s limited seating at Woki, I usually get my noodles to-go, often eating them right out of the box while watching the tide come in.

2. Tallers 76
Calle Tallers, 76bis

Right in the middle of the city and on trendy Calle Tallers, this lavender-colored café and restaurant is a right-on choice for sandwiches. Made with artisan breads, sandwiches come in delectable combos like goat cheese with sun-dried tomato and smoked salmon with cucumber.

Hey, it’s a no-frills lunch, but tasty and under €6.00, though plan to spend a bit more if you purchase a drink or side.

3. Buenas Migas
Passeig de Gracia (with locations citywide)

Cheap delights are on every corner in Barcelona.

With multiple spots around town, Buenas Migas is an easy-to-find—and yummy—Cheapo option. Choose from focaccia pizzas, ample salads, plus an array of sandwiches and pastries.

A focaccia pizza will run you between €4 and €5 (flavors include ‘meat-lovers’, tomato and basil, and four-cheese). Add a drink with your focaccia and you’ll have a delicious midday feast for around €6!

4. La Central
Calle Mallorca, 237 (with locations citywide)

Not everything offered on the menu at La Central—an eatery within a bookshop—falls under the budget category. However, during the lunch rush, they do offer reasonably priced deli wraps, sandwiches, and some pasta salads. All items range from €6 and up.

But, the real reason I love La Central is for their coffee and ambiance. The place benefits by being one of the city’s most eclectic book stores right in the heart of an old neighborhood. Grab a cup o’ joe, take a seat, and browse the wares.

5. Pans & Company
Plaça urquinaona, 12-13 (with locations nationwide)

In a way I hate to mention Pans & Company because, well, it’s a chain. However, it is also very cheap and the quality and quantities here is pretty good. Not unlike the U.S.-based Subway sandwiches, Pans is fast-food in style, but takes a healthy approach to eating.

Outdoor seating at Pans & Company; photo by Enric Archivell

The sandwiches and sides offered at Pans are geared towards the classic Mediterranean eater, with combos like melted brie and Spanish ham, or tuna and olives. They also serve large salads and occasionally offer hamburgers.

All sandwiches are under €6 and depending on what you order you will likely have a euro or two leftover to grab a drink, side, or opt for a meal combo (around €6 or €7.00). Pans also has an espresso bar that offers cheap, good coffee and tasty pastries and breads.

About the author: Regina W. Bryan is a Barcelona-based freelance writer and photographer. When not eating tapas and exploring Europe, she is tending her balcony veggie garden and practicing Catalan. For more of her thoughts on Spain, check: www.regwb.com and www.thespainscoop.com.

Popularity: 18% [?]

Photo of Cafe In de Waag by Peterhoneyman

Editor’s Note: Pete and Meredith just spent a long weekend in Amsterdam. This is a post from their recent journey.

A little bit of history

In 1488, St. Anthony’s Port - today a weigh house that stands in the center of Nieuwmarkt Square in Amsterdam - opened its doors and became one of the Dutch capital’s original city gates. Later, the building was reconstructed to function as a guild house for surgeons and doctors studying medicine and conducting experiments.

An elaborate octagonal ceiling loomed over the resident medical ampitheater where Amsterdam’s finest practioners could dissect and then study the corpses of recently executed criminals. The general public was welcomed into the demonstrations, and they became as popular as a trip to the movies might be for us today.

Making history

In 1632, Rembrandt painted “The Anatomy Lesson of Dr. Nicolaes Tulp” in the guild house ampitheater. Today, you can visit this historic stomping ground simply by stopping into the Cafe In de Waag, a restaurant and bar now housed inside the original weigh station, in the center of Amsterdam’s Nieuwmarkt Square.

Today’s special

While dinner is a tad expensive here, a Cheapo can purchase a Heineken for €2.50 or a soda for €2.20.  The evening that we visited ‘In de Waag,’ we opted for nightcaps (two glasses of wine set us back €8). Since the wait staff wasn’t busy with a crazy dinner rush, we were able to linger long over our drinks and ask lots of questions about Rembrandt’s heyday, and how the building fit in to it all.

While we couldn’t exactly peek into the original room where Rembrandt painted the masterpiece, we felt close enough to the real deal. Considering that the Rijksmuseum’s admission price is €10 per person, we felt like it was all a pretty good deal and a great Cheapo night out!

Popularity: 9% [?]

Hitting the town in Madrid doesn’t have to rip into your bank balance faster than a speeding bull. As in all good cities, nighttime budget-friendly options abound!

Here’s our cheapo guide to living it up for a night in Spain’s vibrant capital.

Get in the mood

Start out near central Plaza de Chueca, an area where there’s no shortage of trendy clubs and restaurants, many of which are cheapo-friendly. Considered to be the premiere gay area of  Madrid, Chueca and its main square are full of people hangin’ out in cafes and bars almost every night. In fact, if you hang out in the square long enough, chances are decent that you’ll make some new friends and find yourself involved in some last-minute plans.

Dinner

While daytime lunch specials certainly abound around Chueca (a good midday meal can be had for between €5-8), it can be a bit challenging to keep dinner prices low. We’d recommend checking out the trendy and delish Bazaar Restaurant, located just south of Plaza de Chueca on C/Libertad, 21. The menu runs the gammut from goat cheese salad to Thai-style noodles with grilled meats, and can be digested with ease for under €25.

And a movie…

Next stop: Filmoteca’s Cine D’Oré (Santa Isabel, 3, next to Metro Anton Martin) where the Spanish film archives are housed and any number of old greats from Ingmar Bergman to Luis Buñuel are showcased in one of three “session” rooms. Tickets are €2 for students, €2.50 for non-students.

And then drinks to discuss…

When the movie lets out, try Café Central, located about three blocks away, at Plaza del Angel, 10. The jazz bar has a bubbly atmosphere with reasonably-priced drinks, delicious snacks (pinchos y tostas €1.20), and even fixed-price meals (€10 for two courses). 

And if you decide to spring for tickets to the evening’s jazz performance, they’ll throw in a free drink ticket. We don’t know about you, but we always love getting an added bibbidy for our buck.

Popularity: 11% [?]

Photo by Letincelle&Soseau

Feeling jaded after all those meals of steak frites and braised veal shanks? Pep yourself up with an ice-cold smoothie at one of the great new juice bars in Paris.

Bob’s Juice Bar is located near the Canal St. Martin on the Right Bank. Run by an American filmmaker called Mark, it has a very laid-back vibe and is organized around a long shared table where locals come to hang out with their laptops and chat with the owner about the latest movies at the Cannes film festival. Find generous pile of magazines, a bottomless cup of coffee for €1, muffins, pancakes, soup, salad, and of course, an inventive roster of juices and smoothies. For an additional kick, ask for a supplement of spirulina or guarana. Smoothies cost €4-€5.50 and there’s a lunch formula at €10 with soup and a salad or a sandwich and a muffin with mint tea.

On the Left Bank near Odéon there’s Wanna Juice, which is more impersonal and geared towards takeout. Nonetheless, it is worth bearing in mind for a hot day in the teeming streets off the Boulevard Saint Germain. Wanna insists on using only fresh fruit and no added sugar. One of their bestsellers is the Apasionada, which consists of passionfruit, mango, banana, and pineapple juice. Smoothies begin at €3.90.

Bob’s Juice Bar is located at 15, rue Lucien Sampaix 75010 M° Jacques Bonsergent and is open Tuesday through Sunday from 7:30 a.m. until 4:30 p.m.

Wanna Juice, at 65, rue Saint-André des Arts 75006 M° Odéon, is open everyday from 8:30 a.m. ’til sunset.

Popularity: 6% [?]

Photo by Bootsintheoven.com

Florentines love their Viniai, and consider them among the city’s most authentic and beloved spots for a bite. And man, are these wine bars cheap!

Though viniai are technically wine vendors, they’ve adapted to changing times and appetites, including the sandwich and snack craze. These days, a couple of Euros gets you a glass of wine, though a couple more will buy you a focaccia sandwich with your choice of ingredients. It’s one tasty deal. 

You’ll notice immediately that these are not large shops. In fact, they can be amusingly cramped. But they are packed, from floor to ceiling, with fabulous local and national wines (and usually a character or two!).

Recommended by tour guides and taxi drivers alike (and endorsed by the crowd almost always outside), I Fratellini (Via dei Cimatori, 38/r) is the city favorite.

Popularity: 7% [?]

 
Photo by ale2000

From the team that brought Florence Angels, the perennially hip bar and restaurant, comes Doris, a slick black and chrome nightclub that opened last week and already has the lovelies lined up around the block.

While after-dinner cocktails could run you into the double digits, the 7-10 PM aperitivo costs only €7 and includes the bar’s massive, fresh pasta-rific, buffet. It’s a Cheapo-friendly way way to get stylin’, a la Firenze. (We must add that the djs in the ladies room made us flush with joy.)

Popularity: 5% [?]