Wednesday, May 7th, 2008

When the weather turns warm, Parisians picnic. Sure, some stray as far as the terrace of their corner café, but many flock to parks, gardens and river-side quais to enjoy their beloved city. For cheapos, picnics have the added advantage of being easy on the budget.
Here are our steps for procuring and perfecting the Parisian picnic.
When in Paris, stock up like the French do!
Pick up your must-haves in this order. Hit up the corner boulangerie for bread, then visit the fromagerie for cheese. Next stop? A traiteur where quiches, terrines, salads and other prepared foods are the mainstay. And of course the marchand de vin for an inexpensive, but lovely, bottle of wine, and, finally, the patisserie for some fabulous desserts. Even better, hit a weekly neighborhood outdoor food market, where you can actually barter with the sellers and snag everything in one trip. Check for days and hours.
Pick a picnic spot, but not any spot.
We have some favorites. In no particular order…
La Cour Carré at the Louvre (1st arrondissement): This enclosed courtyard at the eastern end of the Louvre is a fabulous spot for a petit repos. At any time of day, large, flat benches free for the taking are bathed in sun, and in the evening the museum’s lighting stunningly showcases the surrounding building’s architecture. Hang out and listen to musicians and performers, who play under the arches and near the fountain at the square’s center. There’s no better antidote to a busy day of sightseeing.
Pont des Arts (1st and 6th arrondissement): Exit the Cour Carré’s south (river) side, and you’ll find yourself facing the Pont des Arts, a pedestrian bridge that turns into a sunset lovers’ rendez-vous on summer evenings. Views in all directions show off Paris’ sightseeing highlights. Here, you are perfectly poised to enjoy views of most every major Paris monument. Don’t forget the champagne!
Jardin du Palais Royal (1st arrondissement): Central Paris’ hidden gem is the Jardin. Even those who know its location can struggle to find an entrance through the arcades. The easiest way we’ve found is through Place Colette, by the Palais Royal Musée du Louvre metro station. The peaceful gardens, fountains and historic buildings surrounding the square are breathtaking.
The quais on Sunday (1st and 4th arrondissement): On Sundays, Paris’ river quais are closed to traffic and open to strollers, bikers, roller bladers-and, you guessed it: picnickers. One favorite stretch-out site is the grassy, tree-lined spot on the right bank facing Ile Saint-Louis. Sit back, relax and enjoy the sights.
Ile Saint-Louis (4th arrondissement): The banks of Ile Saint-Louis rank as one of Paris’ most romantic spots to set up for an evening apéritif. Join locals sipping champagne and watching the Bateaux Mouches pass as the sun sinks behind the Seine. The most coveted spot is at the western-most tip of the island (with views of Hotel de Ville and Ile de la Cité). To get down to the river bank, take any of the stairways from the street.
Square Jean XXIII behind Notre Dame (1st arrondissement): This lovely garden behind the famous cathedral is much quieter than the touristy square in front, with arguably just as good a view. Shaded benches and impressive rose and flower beds make it a nice pause point before or after an encounter with church-visiting crowds. It’s also convenient to Ile Saint-Louis.
Square Tino Rossi (5th arrondissement): Enter from Quai Saint Bernard where a pedestrian path runs down to the river just after Pont de Sully and you’ll find one of Paris’ prettiest Seine views, facing Ile Saint-Louis and the back spires of Notre Dame. This park has a lively evening outdoor music and dance scene. Watch a tango lesson, or better yet join in!
Rue de Seine, square G. Pierne (6th arrondissement): This is a convenient little stopping point to quickly eat purchases from rue de Seine’s nearby boulangeries and to-go sandwich shops. Don’t miss the whimsical design of the benches in the form of open books.
About the author: Jamie Cahill is author of The Patisseries of Paris, a guide to the city’s bakeries, chocolatiers, ice cream parlors, tea salons and other spots for a light bite. A lifelong dessert lover, Cahill spent four years indulging her sweet tooth in Paris before relocating to London.
Popularity: 22% [?]
Posted in Food, France, Paris | 6 Comments »
Wednesday, February 13th, 2008

London can be a tricky city for dining. Long criticized for the quality of its fare (”It’s no Paris!”), the city has undergone a gastro-awakening over the past decade that has benefited the bellies, if not the wallets, of its diners.
So what’s a Cheapo to eat? Here are our dining tips, all tested and tried:
1. Go for conveyer belt sushi!
We were initially turned off by the robotic, ever-moving feel of these establishments, frequently seen in London’s malls and Tube stations, but the low prices always lured us back to the belt. Eventually, we even got a hang of it. (Not counting the time the California rolls spun out on our table.) We’re big fans because you watch all the sushi and sashimi as it’s prepared, so you know it’s fresh. You can also ask the chef to add a little extra something (Wasabi? Extra roe?) to your particular dish. Hey, if we’re conveyer converts, you can be too.
Try Yo Sushi, which has tons of locations all across London.
2. Eat with the fishes—and chips!
Sure, we try to stay away from battered and fried, but you have to go there at least once during your stay. Our favorite fish and chips joint is the Rock & Sole Plaice (47 Endell St, WC2 ) in Covent Garden. For under £15, you can order a whole fish and taste a variety of dipping sauces, and have your chips too! If you can’t tube it to this spot, you can usually find decent (and cheaper) fish and chips in any neighborhood. Just steer clear of major tourist haunts (Read: Leicester Square) and larger chains like Slug and Lettuce that claim they have fresh oceanic fare. When in doubt, ask the locals!
3. Kebob it!
We’ve been there: It’s midnight, the pub just closed, and your tum-tum is grumbling. If you’re in Bayswater, head for a kebob stand on busy Queensway where, for a few pounds, you can get your lamb on. Doll it up with the fixins, which usually include peppers, tomatoes, hummus, tahini, and cucumber sauce.
We recommend The Taza Kebab House, where the lamb is always succulent and the pita sandwiches are filling.
4. Join the chain gang.
You may normally steer clear of chain restaurants, but local chains can introduce you to local tastes (mmmm…. mayonnaise!) and help your budget. Big name chain restaurants like Wagamama (Japanese) and Pret-A-Manger (eat-in or take-out sandwiches and coffee) are London mainstays, located throughout the city. Smaller chains like Hummus Bros offer a unique dining experience without exotic prices. Many of these chains offer lunch specials daily.
5. Get roasted.
Sunday is the best day to partake in a yummy, often three-course, gastro-pub meal. The menus are usually prix fixe, but you can always order stuff separately. And, if you haven’t been to a Sunday “roast,” it’s a great way to see London culture at its finest—and hungriest—as piles of bangers and mash, roasted chickens and beef, and plenty o’ pints are consumed. We love The Chapel Pub in Marylebone (48 Chapel Street, London, NW1 5DP ), where we’re always warmly greeted with a comfy seat and a fantastic meal.
Popularity: 19% [?]
Posted in Food, London, United Kingdom | 6 Comments »
Thursday, April 26th, 2007

Photo by rationalise_this
Now that the weather is warming up, it’s time to start eating outside again. Paris is full of outdoor dining possibilities, but the best to-go sandwich—in our humble opinion—is to be found in Montparnasse, at a small take-away stall on Place Edgar-Quinet (see above) located between the Montparnasse tower and the cemetery.
The stall is run by a guy named Joe. His sandwiches are giant and delicious and cost only €5. They’re made with fresh ingredients on fresh bread. Just as cheap as boulangerie food, they’re considerably heartier and tastier.
The sandwich and crepe stand is attached to Café de la Place on Place Edgar-Quinet (line 6, 14th arrondissement).
Our favorite sandwich? The tomato, grilled chicken, and avocado.
Popularity: 7% [?]
Posted in Food, Paris | No Comments »
Friday, April 6th, 2007

Photo by sfsuperstar
Paris can be a tough place for a vegetarian, what with all the force-fed duck livers and tartar steaks on restaurant menus. But while it is hard here for a vegetarian, there is hope.
Scattered throughout the city are several vegetarian restaurants worth checking out. Our favorites:
1. Le Grenier de Notre Dame is located just steps from the Notre Dame Cathedral. Le Grenier offers tofu ravioli and fresh vegetable juices. 18, rue de la Bûcherie. Tel: +33 1 43 29 98 29.
2. Le Petite Legumes is located in the 5th arrondissment. It serves up tofu burgers in a quirky, warm setting. 36, Rue des Boulangers. Tel: +33 1 40 46 06 85.
3. Our top choice is the Piccolo Teatro in the heart of the Marais, a resto whose organic red wines and palette-pleasing tasting menu caters to vegans, romantics, and Cheapos alike. 6, rue des Ecouffes. Tel: +33 1 42 72 17 79.
Popularity: 7% [?]
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Wednesday, April 4th, 2007

Photo by Annie Shapero
Those in search of a sit-down meal deal in Florence—or at the very least something requiring a fork—lunch is the way to go. Loads of restaurants knock down prices to as little as €5 for a plate of pasta, and around €6 or €7 for meat and fish dishes.
Fiaschetteria-Trattoria Mario (Via Rosina, 2r. Tel. 055218550) is only open for lunch. Go early and be prepared to eat on your feet—or squeeze in at the first available seat with groups of hungry locals.
On the other side of town, at Trattoria Accadi (Via Borgo Pinti, 56r. Tel. 0552478410; see above), a Japanese head chef turns out some darn good Tuscan Italian specialties at rock bottom prices. You can actually have two hefty courses for around €12 total.
Who said you can’t eat cheap in this most touristed of cities?
Popularity: 7% [?]
Posted in Florence, Food, Italy | No Comments »
Tuesday, April 3rd, 2007

Photo by coloursofbohemia
The rue Saint André des Arts is small winding street in the 6th arrondissement. It leads from place Saint Michel to place Buci, near Odéon. It’s definitely worth a stroll next time you’re in the central and buzzing Saint Michel area. The street is romantic and quaint, and is also packed with cute places to fill up cheaply.
Foremost among these is the Lebanese food stand Kiki et Mimi, where a panini, drink, and dessert crêpe only cost €6. K & M also offers a €7.50 menu, which includes a truly delicious shwarma with a drink and crêpe. It’s the perfect place to stop and eat while exploring the rue. It also makes a great pit-stop while waiting for the street’s numerous bars and cafés to move into happy hour mode. Kiki et Mimi is located at 36 rue Saint André des Arts.
To find rue Saint André des Arts from Saint Michel, face the fountain, go right, and cross the street. It’s the first street on the right.
Popularity: 6% [?]
Posted in City Guides, Food, France, Neighborhood, Paris | 2 Comments »
Monday, April 2nd, 2007

Photo by Ian Hay
Last Friday’s Le Parisien had a round-up of cheap and hearty canteens in Paris where you can get a meal for less than €10. Jot these down!
1. Regis, la soupe populaire. 35, rue Mauconseil, Paris 75001. Metro: Les Halles. Open for lunch and dinner on Thursdays, Fridays and Saturdays.
Main courses like shepherd’s pie (hachis parmentier in French) and pork stew for €3.60, starters and dessert for €2.80.
2. Au Banquier. 7, rue du Banquier Paris 75013. Metro: Campo Formio. Open for lunch and dinner every day except Monday.
In true canteen style, this restaurant features a special dish every day of the week. Wednesday is paella, Friday-Sunday is couscous. A lunchtime menu at €8.80 will buy you a dish of carottes rapees, a veal chop, and an oriental pastry.
3. Le Self-Grill. 3, place de Clichy, Paris 75008. Metro: Place de Clichy. Open daily from 11 a.m. until 10 p.m.
Students ”hang” at this enormous basement canteen, not just because of the cheap prices, but also for the staggering variety of offerings: 30 hors d’oeuvres and mixed salads, 20 main courses, and 20 desserts. Try to go early because it gets crowded after 7:30 p.m.
Elsewhere in the French press, Le Figaro recently published its rankings for the best chocolate eclair in town. The winner:
Chez Carette. 4, place du Trocadero, 75016.
Carette is not a Cheapo café, so we recommend buying your eclairs (€4 each) “to go” from the pastry counter. They are also famous for their macaroons, and in distinction to Laduree (which placed third in the survey), you don’t have to stand in line at Chez Carette!
Popularity: 7% [?]
Posted in Food, France, Media, Paris | No Comments »
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