Wander around the Berlinale for free. Photo by Maharepa.

By Susan Buzzelli in Berlin—

Keep pouring the champagne (or, even better, the Sekt), because we’re in a celebratory mood. The festivities surrounding the 20th anniversary of the Berlin Wall’s fall were such a blast, that we’re already looking forward to the city’s next mega-event.

Though Germany’s capital no longer hosts the bacchanalian, techno-obsessed Love Parade, Berlin still reigns as Europe’s party central with its diverse and jam-packed events calendar. The best of the fests, listed below, are ideal for Cheapos because they’re free, inexpensive, or value-packed. So sharpen your elbows and get ready to join the crowds!

Internationale Grüne Woche (International Green Week)
January 15-24, 2010
Official website

We’re crazy about this food-centric fair, which is devoted to nutrition, agriculture and horticulture. The Green Week event fills the city’s massive, space-age exhibition hall with the moo of cows, the pungent scent of Swiss cheese, and the bouquet of German wine.

Regular admission is €12, but once you’re inside, you can stroll past food stands galore shelling out snacks from Germany and around the world. Free samples abound. Cheapos should show up after 2 PM, when tickets go for €7.

Internationale Filmfestspiele Berlin (Berlin International Film Festival)
February 11-21
Official website

Tickets to Berlin’s film festival, referred to as the “Berlinale”, aren’t cheap (they go for €8), but you don’t have to shell out anything to take part in this major cinematic event. Our favorite activity is milling around Potsdamer Platz, the epicenter of the festival, which draws thousands of film professionals and film lovers from around the world.

A must? Celeb-spotting (is that George Clooney?) at the red carpet leading into the Berlinale Palast (Am Marlene-Dietrich-Platz 1), the theater where the most anticipated films—from Hollywood and around the world—premiere. At the very least, be sure to grab a free program to read about the latest in international filmmaking.

Carnival of Cultures. Photo: CpILL

Karneval der Kulturen (Carnival of Cultures)
May 21-24, 2010
Official website

As Germany’s most multicultural metropolis, Berlin celebrates its 450,000 international residents during the colorful, four-day “Carnival of Cultures” festival in Kreuzberg. A party atmosphere pervades the event’s highlight: an endless street parade of ethnic-themed floats.

But the multicultural festival, which includes a riot of bands, food stalls, and theme parties, is lots of fun, too. Celebrated since 1996, the festival is bigger and better every year.

Fête de la Musique
June 21, 2010
Official website

The “Fete de la Musique,” a one-day, music-making event, celebrates the summer solstice with a bang, a drum roll, and a techno beat. Live, open-air concerts—all of which are free–fill the city with music, from reggae to electronica. Expect to discover some new talent, because most of the musical acts are upstart bands and DJs doing their thing for the first time. In 2009, 700 bands and DJs performed on 83 stages; 150,000 showed up to watch. Now that’s what we call a party.

Silvester (New Year’s Eve)
December 31

When the clock strikes twelve, laser shows and fireworks displays shower the Brandenburg Gate with light. A major event since 1995, Berlin’s New Year’s Eve festivities have become the spectacle to see in Europe. Before the explosion of lights, dozens of bands entertain the throng of spectators gathered on the Strasse 17. Juni, a wide avenue that’s bookended by two of the city’s most iconic landmarks: the Brandenburg Gate and the angel-capped Siegesäule (Victory Column).

Popularity: 6% [?]

Caravaggio's "Madonna di Loreto" on display. Photo by Gaspa.

By Samantha Collins in Rome—

There is something about Caravaggio that fascinates people. Even those who would normally prefer to cross a street of hot coals than spend time looking at paintings seem happy to make an exception for this rebel of Counter-Renaissance Art.

To celebrate Rome’s Caravaggio exhibition that has just opened at the Villa Borghese (and runs through January 24, 2010), it seemed timely to look at this bad boy of the paintbrush and take a tour around Rome to see some of his masterpieces for free!

So just who was Caravaggio?

Whilst most artists of the Middle Ages were more soft ruffles than tough scuffles, Caravaggio was not afraid of a fight, a drink, and the odd murder to boot. Commission happy, the taste of luxury did not bring out his lighter side. As well as pushing the Catholic church to the edge with his dark religious paintings, he eventually lost his temper once too often. After killing a young man who beat him in a tennis match in the Campo Dei Fiori, he fled Rome with a price on his head. He finally died in exile, never learning that he had been given a Papal Pardon.

Where can I see Caravaggio for free?

Sant’ Agostino Church
Via Sant’ Agostino

The Madonna di Loreto (painted in 1605, pictured above) is hung in the first chapel on the left. The church is close to Piazza Navona, and also includes a Raphael fresco. The church is currently under restoration, but don’t be fooled. Under the scaffolding, it is still open so you can see the paintings. For those who are pregnant (or wish to be), touch the statue of the “Madonna del Parto” near the door as you leave for luck.

San Luigi dei Francesi
Via Giustiniani

San Luigi dei Francesi. Photo: Gaspa

In the church of San Luigi dei Francesi you get three Caravaggio paintings for free with the Matthew trilogy, including  “The Calling of Saint Matthew”, “St. Matthew and the Angels”, and “The Matrydom of Saint Matthew”. This church is close to the centre, a short walk from the Pantheon and Piazza Navona, and next to the French institute with its wonderful bookshop.

Santa Maria Del Popolo
Piazza Del Popolo

This church is about a 20-minute walk from the historic centre, or you can take the Metro Linea A to Flaminio. Here you can find two paintings, the “Conversion of St. Paul” and “The Crucifixion of St. Peter”, so well worth the journey.

Please note that many churches are closed between 1 PM - 4 PM, but usually stay open in the evening until around 7 PM.

And if I want to pay?

Well if you are at the Santa Maria del Popolo, it is just a short walk up the hill to the Galleria Borghese, and its wonderful park. Here you can see three Caravaggio works, “Sick Bacchus”, “Boy with Bag of Fruit” and “Madonna dei Palafrenieri”. Entrance will cost you €8.50 but you also get to see the amazing Bernini sculpture of “Daphne and Apollo” amongst many other treasures.

At the moment, you can also access the Caravaggio and Bacon exhibition, on through January 24. Note that for the Galleria Borghese, you need to book in advance as only a limited number are allowed in at any one time (more details here).

Lastly, you can see the “Gypsy Fortune Teller” at the Capitoline Museums, entrance fee €6.50. Don’t forget that both of these museums are included in the Roma Pass, which is a 3-day pass that gives you free access to two museums, free travel on Rome’s public transport, and discounts to other museums and attractions. The pass costs €23. (read more about the Roma Pass).

Popularity: 9% [?]

A statue in front of Humboldt University in Berlin. Photo by Zephyrinus.

By Susan Buzzelli in Berlin—

With Berlin’s three public universities—Humboldt Universität zu Berlin (Humboldt University), Freie Universität (Free University), and Technische Universität (Technical University)—and dozens of private colleges, Germany’s capital is crawling with students studying everything from “Kunst” (art) to “Wirtschaft” (business).

With the oldest of the three, Humboldt, in the midst of a 200th anniversary celebration, it’s a great time to get in touch with Berlin’s collegiate side. German schools aren’t really known for their wild celebrations, so don’t expect to stumble across raucous soccer matches or wild kegger parties while touring the two most visit-worthy campuses.

Instead, FU and HU boast historic buildings, memorable museums, ultra-contemporary libraries, and tasty, Cheapo-friendly “Mensas” (cafeterias).

Humboldt Universität zu Berlin

Founded in 1810 by the education innovator Alexander von Humboldt, HU is regarded as the first “modern” university because it offered courses in diverse subjects, such as chemistry and physics, in addition to standard classes on the humanities.

Since its debut, the university’s (now faded) halls have hosted dozens of star students and faculty, including the economist Karl Marx, the folklorists Jacob and Wilhelm Grimm, the philosopher Georg Wilhelm Friedrich Hegel, and the physicist Albert Einstein.

A statue of Humboldt guards the central building (Unter den Linden, S-bahn: Unter den Linden), a gorgeous 19th-century palace on Berlin’s monument-studded main drag, Unter den Linden. After browsing the used book stalls set up in the front yard (Mon.–Sat.), pop inside the entrance hall to marvel at the marble-bedecked East Germany-era staircase. It features a gilded quote by Marx.

Stroll through the back courtyard to reach the university’s newest building. Designed by the Swiss architect Max Dudler, the streamlined Brüder Grimm Zentrum (Brothers Grimm Center, Geschwister-Scholl-Str. 1/3, S/U-bahn: Friedrich Str.) houses the university’s central library.

A free exhibition

FU's Norman Foster Library. Photo by Svenwerk.

In honor of the university’s bicentennial, the main hall currently plays host to the free exhibit, “In the city center—200 years of the Universität Unter den Linden,” which chronicles HU’s history. After your cram history session, be sure to check out the architecturally-striking Lesehalle (reading hall).

Freie Universität

Nestled in Dahlem (U-bahn: Dahlem Dorf), a leafy suburb southwest of the center, “the Oxford of Germany” is newer, bigger, and more highly-regarded than Humboldt. In fact, HU is still fuming about the fact that FU beat it out for a spot on the exclusive list of German Centers of Excellence, a distinction awarded to the country’s best schools.

In addition to its trio of fantastic museums—the Asian Art Museum, the Ethnological Museum, and the Museum of European Cultures—FU boasts an impressive library of its own.

Opened in 2005, Sir Norman Foster’s cerebral Philologische Bibliothek (Philological Library, Habelschwerdter Allee 45) is literally shaped like a brain. Step inside the so-called “Berlin Brain” to find a curvaceous central chamber that plays host to nearly a million books.

If you find yourself in need of a study break, head to one of the campuses many Mensas for a cheap and filling meal. The best of the bunch, the bright orange Mensa FU II (Otto-von-Simson-Str. 26), is right next door to the library.

Popularity: 5% [?]

Repainting. Photo by Christian Bamale, courtesy la Tour Eiffel.

By Theadora Brack in Paris—

Reflecting recently on the grace and beauty of the Eiffel Tower on her 120th birthday, I stopped to consider how she still looks so smart. After all, sight-seeing during the rainy winter months in Paris can wreak havoc on the complexion! So how has she managed to look so good after standing around for 120 years?

Photos by Theadora Brack.

But first, don’t leave Paris without checking out the Tour Eiffel’s special 120th birthday exposition, “L’Épopée Tour Eiffel” (“Epic of the Eiffel Tower”).  The exhibit features pictures and a history of the famous structure, along with a gallery of 300 reproductions of the Tower and a collection of artwork inspired by the “Lady of Iron.”

The festivities will run through December 31, 2009. Elevator access to the tower is open from 9:30 AM to 11:45 PM.

Some riveting facts

The Eiffel Tower is made with 2.5 million rivets holding together 20,000 square meters of intricate iron latticework projecting 1,046 feet high. She was the tallest structure on earth from 1889 until 1930. Wind, the dominant natural force affecting her, is strongest at the top, but most of it blows through her and not against her because of her airy wrought iron. (Well, almost. She has been known to jiggle on a gusty day–but only a few inches.)

The Tower’s beauty regimen involves 60 tons of paint, which must be applied at least every seven years to protect her from rust. Each paint job takes 15 to 18 months. Thinking ahead, Gustave Eiffel nailed it when he said, “The more meticulous the paint job, the longer the Tower shall endure.” The most recent paint job started in March 2009, just in time for her 120th birthday celebration.

Down through the years the colors have varied from dark red to a rather bright yellow, and from dark chocolate brown to her current “Brun Tour Eiffel”—a special grayish-brown hue. To emphasize her fabulous silhouette as seen from the ground, there are actually three different shades of the hue that change from dark to light, the higher up you go.

Beauté tips from the Eiffel Tower employees

Karkachi, a lift operator.

Like the great iron spire jutting directly above them, the employees who run the Tour Eiffel’s lifts have to protect themselves against the elements. “It’s windy up there!” lift-operator Karkachi told me. Daily she makes some fifty round trips to the first and second levels, and at least twenty more to the third level. “So moisturizing is key. Neutrogena is the most famous around here. We also wear hooded parkas!”

The Tour Eiffel uniform, strikingly stylish in olive green with bright orange piping, was created by couturier Jean Charles de Castelbajac. The coordinated ensemble includes a tight-fitted pantsuit, scarf, and a matching purse on a string.

Karkachi grinned. “I especially like the sacs. We all carry our beauty products in them and talk about them often. We also share.” she said. “The favorite lip-moisturizer here is LaBello, strawberry flavored. All my colleagues use it. I suppose that’s because of the color and shape.” She winked. “We all wish to look pretty, but not too sexy. After all, la Tour is a family place.”

Karkachi’s co-workers Amsa and Sophie also pack Nivéa Crème. (Tip: Cheapos, all products mentioned can be purchased for just a few euros at grocery stores or pharmacies in Paris.)

Popularity: 7% [?]

A mural inside 59Rivoli. Photo by Liz Webber.

By Liz Webber in Paris—

Back in Picasso’s day, many Paris artists took up residence in a tenement in Montmartre called “Le Bateau-Lavoir.” More recently, cash-strapped artistes have resorted to squatting in abandoned buildings, in search of a cheap place to live or work.

What happens when someone comes in to kick out the squatters? In the case of 59Rivoli, the French government took over and eventually gave the building back to the artists.

Happily for art lovers, the location officially reopened to the public at the beginning of September 2009, offering free entry to the artists’ world.

Renovating the “aftersquat”

In 1999, the artists who squatted at 59 Rue de Rivoli had to sneak into the building through a window in the back. Then the government bought the building in 2002, and after pouring in 5.5 million euros in renovations, reestablished the space as an artists’ workshop.

Since the building is no longer technically a “squat,” it has been dubbed an “aftersquat.” Some critics complain the concept has been sanitized, but it still gives the artists a chance to work while exposing their creations to the public.

Discovering the art

The building’s six floors house 30 ateliers; 20 belong to the original artists’ collective, while the remaining 10 will be opened to invited artists on a temporary basis. The official announcement of the reopening states that visitors will not be permitted to visit the work spaces, but when this Cheapo visited, the workshops were open for viewing.

Year-round, 59Rivoli will host exhibitions featuring a particular artist or group. Upcoming expos include one devoted to South American artists from October 27 to November 8, 2009 and “Femininity and Others” from November 25 to December 6, 2009.

59Rivoli is open Tuesday through Sunday from 1 PM to 8 PM, with an opening time of 11 AM on Saturday. It is located, unsurprisingly, at 59 rue de Rivoli. Metro: Châtelet.

Popularity: 5% [?]

A temporary exhibit at Centquatre. Photos by Liz Webber.

By Liz Webber in Paris—

Wandering through Paris‘ many museums, it’s easy to see how the city was once a place to which artists flocked from all over the world in order to practice their crafts.

But wait, it still is! And the new art being created isn’t hidden away behind closed doors. The Centquatre center in the 20th Arrondissement offers visitors a chance to mingle with artists of today as they watch new masterpieces take shape.

From dealing with death to the birth of new art

Centquatre or “104,” so named because of its address at 104 Rue d’Aubervilliers, was constructed by the Church in 1873, but the Municipal Funeral Service took over the building in 1905 as a sort of giant funeral home for all of Paris. In 1993 the burial process was decentralized, and the building eventually closed in 1997.

Work began on transforming the site into a space for artists nearly a decade later. Centquatre opened to the public in October 2008. This year (2009), almost 200 artists from around the world will have the opportunity to take up temporary residence in one of the center’s 18 studios.

Discovering the artists at work

Vergara's murals

Although visitors cannot wander through the work spaces as they please, the artists’ often throw open their doors to show off their latest works or even let the public participate in the creative process.

Just last week (May 2009), visitors mingled in the main hall of the Centquatre under murals created by the Peruvian artist Juan Diego Vergara. A few doors down, actors held an open rehearsal for the plays “Phèdre” and “Hippolyte,” to be performed in October 2009.

Events vary by the day, so check the agenda online to find out what’s going on during your visit. Pay special attention to those marked with a “G” for “gratuit” (free). Most studio openings take place late in the afternoon, and there tend to be more events on Fridays and weekends.

Show me more Centquatre!

Centquatre also offers three tours each week for a very-manageable 5 €. A general tour takes place on Sundays at 3 PM, the history and architecture tour is Saturdays at 4 PM, and tours conducted by neighborhood residents take place Sundays at 4 PM.

The center is a bit off the beaten path but easily reachable by metro line 7 (station Riquet). Centquatre is open every day, except Monday, from 11 AM to 9 PM; it closes at 11 PM on Friday and Saturday.

About the author: Liz Webber is a freelance journalist living and working in Paris. She has previously worked for the International Herald Tribune and Budget Travel.

Popularity: 6% [?]

The Petit Palais, a free museum. Photos by Liz Webber.

By Liz Webber in Paris—

Paris really went all-out for the 1900 Exposition Universelle, constructing several buildings which are now considered Paris landmarks, including the Musée d’Orsay, the Gare de Lyon, and the Grand Palais. Another such project was the Petit Palais, a light-filled, “Beaux-Arts” structure overlooking the Champs-Elysées.

Nowadays the building houses the City of Paris Museum of Fine Arts (with free admission!) and an intriguing mix of temporary exhibits that won’t break the bank.

A Palace of Fine Arts

The soaring structure with its vast, columned entryway was designed by architect Charles Girault, who also directed work on the Grand Palais across the way. Huge windows bathe every room in natural light, even on the lower levels.

The Petit Palais was inaugurated in 1900 and opened to the public as a museum in 1902. A renovation project closed the museum from 2001-2005, but the building reopened with a restored sense of the original architecture and larger spaces for exhibitions.

"The Parable of the Wise and Foolish Virgins" by Blake

Crazy poet conquers the Palais

Currently (May 2009), an exhibit well worth checking out is “William Blake, the Genius Visionary of English Romanticism,” a collection of the poet’s art and engravings. Let’s stop and think about that one for a second – a tribute to Blake in Paris, focusing on his work as an artist and engraver. Who knew the French would be interested in such a thing?

Still, Parisians have been coming out in droves to see the haunting, bizarre and sometimes disturbing works of Blake. The images center on themes like the Bible and Dante’s Divine Comedy, with a healthy dose of Blake’s “visions” and dreams thrown in. None of the art sold very well during his lifetime, and Blake relied on wealthy friends and patrons to continue painting and engraving.

The expo runs through June 28, 2009. Admission is €8.

From Greek mountains to the streets of Paris

Another current exhibit is “Mount Athos and the Byzantine Empire,” which brings Orthodox art from northern Greece outside of its native land for the first time. The monastic communities of Mount Athos, where no woman has ever stepped foot, have been collecting religious treasures for more than 1,000 years.

The exhibition ends July 3, 2009. Tickets for this expo are €9, or go for the two-is-better-than-one deal of Mount Athos and William Blake for €13. To avoid waiting in line (entrance to all sections of the museum is through one long, snaking line), reserve tickets online at least two days in advance for the Mount Athos exhibit.

In late 2009 the Petit Palais will host “Fernand Pelez, la parade des humbles.” This artist drew inspiration from the ordinary people he encountered in late 19th-century Paris, from women and children to clowns and young Opera dancers. The expo is planned to run Sept. 24, 2009 to Jan. 17, 2010.

Did somebody say “free”?

The Petit Palais garden

To still enjoy the rich history and architecture of the Petit Palais and save some money for a café and pâtisserie afterward, stop by for the free permanent collection. The visit won’t take nearly as long as a trip to the Louvre, and the art and artifacts encompass pretty much the same period (from antiquity to the early 20th century).

While the artwork isn’t necessarily well-known, you’ll certainly be familiar with the artists on display, including Delacroix, Rembrandt, Cézanne, and Monet (although let’s be honest, what Paris museum doesn’t have a Monet?).

Unfortunately the Greek and Roman section is not particularly noteworthy, but the Medieval Christian art is worth a look. Also be sure to step out to the garden in the center.

The Petit Palais is open every day from 10 AM to 6 PM, except Mondays and holiday. Temporary exhibits stay open until 8 PM on Thursdays.

About the author: Liz Webber is a freelance journalist living and working in Paris. She has previously worked for the International Herald Tribune and Budget Travel.

Popularity: 7% [?]

Who can resist French art books? Photos by Theadora Brack.

By Théadora Brack in Paris—

Oops, I did it again.

I attended an exposition’s “vernissage” (literally, the “varnishing”—how the French refer to a preview or opening of an art show), and became smitten with the show and its fine-looking catalog. Obsession activated. Hit hard, and a post card just wouldn’t do.

But, how can I get an art catalogue on the cheap? Walk this way!

1. Check out that rack of glossies!

Most museum shops sell “les albums de l’exposition” (guides, magazines, and portfolios). Published by Beaux Arts Magazine, Connaissance des Arts, Le Figaro, or the museum itself, these slim gems are usually prominently displayed, lightweight and affordable, costing just €2 to €10. Chockfull of visuals with punch, they’ll satisfy your head, pocketbook and suitcase. Translated versions are often available, too.

Books on sale!

2. Crack Da Chintzy code

La Boutique du Musée du Louvre not only carries current and back issues of “albums de l’exposition” (see above), but also discounts catalogs from its previous expositions by up to 60% off their original cost!

Other museums like the Centre Pompidou, Musée Carnavalet, and The Palais de Tokyo also slash art catalogue prices throughout the year. Recently at the Musée Galliera (museum of fashion), I purchased the Madame Carven catalogue for just €12, marked down from €30. Memorize one of my favorite French words, “soldes” (“on sale”), and you too will start spotting bargains everywhere. (As Anaïs Nin wrote, “We don’t see things as they are. We see things as we are.”)

3. Ch-ching at Fuh-nack!

Even my French friends were surprised to learn that Fnac (pronounced “fuh-nack”), the largest French entertainment retail chain, discounts its inventory of books. This includes the latest catalogues from current blockbuster shows, like Le Grande Monde d’Andy Warhol at the Grand Palais, Kadinsky at the Centre Pompidou, the David LaChapelle Retrospective at the Musée de la Monnaie, and Valadon et Utrillo at La Pinacothèque!

Fnac is a bustling combination of Barnes & Noble, Best Buy, Staples, and Ticketmaster. With everything from laptops and DVDs to French comic books and concert tickets, it’s one-stop shopping. You can also pick up museum admission tickets.

4. Flâneur-tastique! That’s how we stroll.

I’ve been known to spend entire days in the aisles of Mona Lisait Librairies. Although this funky bookstore chain that specializes in new and used art books has shops scattered all over Paris, its Marais location at 17bis rue Pavée (Metro: St Paul) is closest to my heart. Its creaky wooden floorboards, uneven brick flooring, tinny classical music, helpful staff, and free gift-wrapping all add up to real atmosphere.

Another favorite is at Place Joachim du Bellay, not far from the Centre Pompidou. Each of the seven locations has its own charm, and definitely worth a visit. (By the way, “Mona lisait” means “Mona was reading.”)

The "Librarie du Passage."

For another take on the arts, go meet the artists or at least their wax replicas at the Musée Grévin (Paris Wax Museum). Then visit the Librairie du Passage just a few feet away at 39 and 48 Passage Jouffroy (near Grand Boulevard–pictured above). Open since 1846, it’s in one of Paris’ classic 19th-century shopping arcades. Rumor has it that Victor Hugo, a renowned bargain hound, got his Cheapo on at this very shop. 

6. Mosey on to Glory

Here I weep. At La librairie de l’Avenue in the middle of Clignancourt Flea Market (Métros: Garibaldi or Porte de Clignancourt), the angels sing on high from a little CD player located just below the cashier’s desk. The sweet smell of coffee and frankincense tickles the nose.

This large but still intimate bookshop is well stocked with new and used art books, catalogues, vintage prints and antique magazines. Deciding exactly where to start my quest is the only glitch I encounter here as I make my way though the narrow labyrinth of floor to ceiling bookshelves, stocked with discounted books that have been meticulously organized by category, author or genre.

7. Don’t forget to look in the ‘hood

Neighborhood bookstores (”librairies”) all over the city occasionally stock and discount catalogues from current and past expositions. The handsome books are usually displayed in the windows.

How to find out about current art expositions in Paris

Pariscope: Invest 40 cents in a copy of Pariscope, available at any newsstand or kiosk. The pocket-sized weekly listings magazine covers the week’s happenings from theatre, cinema and arts, to music and restaurants. It hits the stands on Wednesdays.

An important note on pronunciation:

You risk raising a few bemused eyebrows if you ask for directions to an “exhibition.” “Exhibitions” (with an “h”) are peep shows—which is fine, if that’s the sort of display you’re after. However, if you’re looking for art, give that word a “p”–“exposition”!

Tell us. Do you have a favorite bookstore in Paris? Tell us below.

About the author and photographer: Theadora Brack is a writer working in Paris. Her fiction has appeared in more than 30 literary publications, including 3AM International, The Smoking Poet, Beloit Fiction Journal, Mid-American Review, and the Haight-Ashbury Literary Journal.

Popularity: 9% [?]

Paris' Hotel de Ville. Photo by Liz Webber.

By Liz Webber in Paris—

When you’re vacationing, a trip to city hall probably isn’t high on your list of things to do (unless you were visiting San Francisco circa 2004). But this is Paris, and city hall is the magnificent Hôtel de Ville. Moreover, it’s a place where you’ll find fascinating exhibitions on French culture – all of them free.

Learn more about the French for free

For a country so content on keeping its culture, language, and food “pure,” exhibits at the Hôtel de Ville do sometimes stretch the notion of French culture. Last summer saw a tribute to Grace Kelly, princess of Monaco, while another previous expo showcased a day in the life of a rugby player and spectator (rugby is a surprisingly popular sport in France).

One current exhibit is devoted to Le Petit Nicolas, a beloved character from French children’s comics for the past 50 years. Pages from Nicolas stories are hung up on the walls, along with commentary from writer René Goscinny and illustrator Jean-Jacques Sempé. Though the scenes are all in French, it is the French of a child and easily understood.

Children visiting the “Petit Nicolas” expo are given an activity book and a pencil so they can draw their own pictures of Nicolas. Even if you know nothing about Le Petit Nicolas, you’re bound to enjoy this lighthearted look at life through a child’s eyes. This exhibit is on now until May 7, 2009; opening hours are 10 AM to 7 PM every day except Sundays and holidays.

Memories from Overseas and The Magician of Iron

Because one expo wasn’t enough, two more opened April 1, 2009 under the title “Memoire d’outre-mer” (outre-mer refers to French territories overseas). One is a series of photographs, documents and personal belongings related to the nearly 70,000 people from Antilles who migrated to French cities in the 1960s-1980s. The other consists of a massive wall with a list of the names of slaves liberated from French colonies in 1848.

Both can be viewed through April 25, from 10 AM to 7 PM. The exhibit is closed April 6-7, April 13 and on Sundays.

Next up is “Gustave Eiffel le magicien du fer”, a tribute to the architect of Paris’s best-known landmark, the Eiffel Tower, currently celebrating its 120th anniversary. The exhibit will run from May 7 to August 31, 2009.

Consolation prize

With the Hôtel de Ville’s central location near Châtelet and the Georges Pompidou Center, there’s no excuse for not visiting. You could easily make it part of a day to Notre Dame or the Marais.

And if you can’t make it to Paris, check out this virtual tour of the Hôtel de Ville.

About the author: Liz Webber is a freelance journalist living and working in Paris. She has previously worked for the International Herald Tribune and Budget Travel.

Popularity: 9% [?]

While it suffers from soul-less 1960s council estates and nu rave—among many other aesthetic mistakes—there is no question that London has style.

Regent Street was once and is again the center of London’s frenzied fashion grab. And right now, there’s a brilliant exhibition at the Guildhall Art Gallery on Regent Street’s fashion heritage. The best bit is it’ll cost you less than an Orange Mocha Frappuccino to get in. At £2.50 for adults and £1 concessions, it’s a snip.

Through June 30, 2007, check out A Mile of Style at The Guildhall Art Gallery (Guildhall Yard off Gresham Street), London EC2P 2EJ.

Popularity: 3% [?]