By Nicky Gardner and Susanne Kries—

Travelling around Europe, we are so often struck how the start dates advertised by new transportation operators are all too frequently hopelessly optimistic. On the whole, Europe’s rail companies are pretty good when it comes to sticking exactly to what they say in their pre-launch publicity. But airlines and ferries much less so, for the late delivery of a first aircraft or ship to a new venture can so easily lead to delays.

Over-optimism on the part of a new venture’s promoters, difficulties in securing regulatory approval, and under-capitalization are all potential pitfalls for which even the most lavish PR show cannot compensate. Some ventures never get going at all. Air Vardar, Air Maxi, and GetJet are just three of many European airlines that went bust before having flown a single revenue flight.

Planning your trip to Europe

So, as Cheapos plan their spring and summer travels around Europe, it is just worth checking on carrier details. If your itinerary relies critically on a new air or ferry route in its opening week or two of operation, just be aware that all may not go absolutely according to plan.

And if a flight or sailing is canceled, while the operator will usually quickly refund your fare, you may be left with a gaping hole in your travel schedule that can only be filled at very high cost. Those cheap promotional fares on offer from a wannabe airline or start-up ferry company may look great on paper, but if the venture folds or the launch is postponed, you may rue the day you opted for the new kid on the block.

Even well established carriers are not immune to such start up problems. In late 2008, Ryanair was due to launch a new Edinburgh base, but just a fortnight before starting a raft of new routes from the Scottish capital, delays in aircraft delivery forced the Irish carrier to defer its Edinburgh launch by six weeks.

False Starts: Two topical examples

This week has seen a few false starts as some carriers were just a shade too optimistic in their plans for new services. We mention just two here, by way of example. Fastnet Line announced that its new ferry link from Ireland to Wales would debut on March 1, 2010 - St David’s Day, always a treat in Wales. That was deferred after a last-minute glitch.

Some companies really specialize in false starts. Would-be ferry operator Euroferries has confidently promoted its claim to be the leading fast ferry operator on the English Channel. The company does not actually own a single vessel. Euroferries was due to debut on the Ramsgate (England) to Boulogne (France) route in March 2009, but has thrice delayed its start date since. Press reports late last year suggested that Euroferries would eventually set sail on March 1, 2010, and the publication of a timetable effective March 1 on the company’s website gave credence to those reports. But March 1 has come and gone without any ferry operations.

The bottom line

So the moral of this tale is that the misplaced optimism of others can all too easily wreck a traveler’s best laid plans. Check, check, and check again. And on the eve of departure try and ascertain if the service really will start as planned. It is often best to check by phone, as companies needing to postpone a launch are often slow in updating their websites. Bad news spreads too quickly on the internet.

Susanne and Nicky run a Berlin-based editorial bureau that supplies text and images to media across Europe. Together they edit hidden europe magazine. You can read more of their writing in their regular e-brief and in the Notes section on their website.

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The port of Dubrovnik. Photo by Tambako the Jaguar.

By Audrey Sykes—

Ask any beach-savvy European and they’ll wax on about Croatia being the new, and more affordable, Mediterranean paradise. Dubrovnik especially emits a feeling of romance as its Old Town walls pair with the Adriatic like some majestic dream.

But like every beach diamond vacation, Dubrovnik is beginning to saturate itself with tourist traps and overpriced snags. To stay within the local cost range, here are some helpful tips:

1. Book (or don’t book) your hotel accordingly

Like many Mediterranean destinations, there are three ways to book accommodation: online, at the tourist offices, or from the hotel owners who linger at airports and bus stations. Heading to the tourist office is the least favorable, as it’s a hassle to locate and rates are rarely appealing. While booking online guarantees a reservation and a variety of room rates, it also lacks the real deals that owners are willing to offer upon your arrival.

That’s why the third option is your best bet for a great deal, if your stomach can stand arriving in town sans reservation. Most hotel owners are like a gentle, friendly mob waiting to greet the tourists. Take time to observe the brochures being displayed, especially as names might match up with ones in online guides and travel books.

Get a few quotes on prices before making a final choice; ask around to find a hotel that offers airport drop-offs, internet, breakfast, a good location, etc. The whole experience might seem a bit unusual and disorganized, but this advertising method is much more effective for mom-and-pop pensions.

2. Ferry and bus transport prices vary

Day trips out of Dubrovnik to nearby islands and small towns vary in price depending on time, day, and company. Simply expecting a list of options to be given at the ticket counter isn’t going to happen, so be prepared to ask. Workers generally speak enough English to answer inquiries about timetables and prices, so quiz the ferry port and bus station ticket desks with a paper and pen in hand.

Get a few quotes on midweek and weekend prices, as well as morning, midday, and evening departures. Another important thing to note is the return time. Off-season transport runs on a more sporadic schedule than the popular summertime, so get the round trip info figured out before setting sail.

3. Buy out of Dubrovnik’s “Old Town”

This advice may seem obvious, but it’s surprisingly intimidating to venture out of the picture-perfect walled city. For the best deals, however, strap on your adventure boots and get out of the tourist area for the real local gifts and wallet-friendly prices.

The district of Lapad is a beautiful neighborhood outside the Old City to stroll around. Shops and restaurants around the beach area streets of Šetaliste Kralja Zvonimira and Šetaliste Nika i Meda Pucica will carry a higher price tag than ones off the beaten path, but Lapad’s greenery and admirable architecture will make exploration a pleasantly satisfying one. Rentals for beach fun like snorkels and fishing are at a lower price than Old Town, so planning a day in the sand along Lapad is also worthwhile.

Just like any knowledgeable traveler will know, doing a little research before arrival will really help you out. However, having the confidence to interact with locals and venture away from the masses can be just as helpful and cost-effective, especially in budding tourist towns.

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Berlin's newest U-Bahn line. Photo by Blogging Dagger.

By Susan Buzzelli in Berlin—

It may only have three stops, but Berlin’s newest (and shortest) subway line, the U55, makes it easier than ever to explore the city’s major sights.

Designed with tourists and politicos in mind, the U55 conveniently links the Brandenburger Tor (Brandenburg Gate) to the Hauptbahnhof (central train station), with a stop in the heart of the Regierungsviertel (the government district, where the Reichstag and the Kanzleramt are located) in between. When the U55 debuted on August 8, 2009, 70,000 passengers hopped on for the three-minute ride.

Situated at the base of the landmark-studded Pariser Platz, the sleek Brandenburger Tor station, sheathed in marbled brown stone, is the most architecturally interesting of the new stops. The station also comes with a free museum: photo collages along the walls provide a history of the 18th-century Brandenburg Gate, which was once blockaded by the Berlin Wall. (Look out for the photo of John F. Kennedy with the city’s then-mayor Willy Brandt.)

Cheapo transit ticket tips

The U55 is only one tiny link in Berlin’s vast transportation chain. Because it’s nearly impossible to explore the sprawling metropolis without catching a U-bahn (subway), S-bahn (commuter rail), Tram (streetcar), or Bus, getting to know the Berliner Verkehrsbetriebe (BVG) is key for a stress-free and Cheapo visit. Even if you prefer the other Cheapo-friendly way to get around Berlin—by rental bike—you’ll inevitably “get on board” at some point during your stay.

Don’t make the mistake of shelling out €2.10 for an “Einzelfahrausweis” (single ticket) or €1.30 for a “Kurzstrecke” (short ride, between 1–6 stops) every time you take a ride. Snap up a “Tageskarte” (day ticket, €6.10) or a “7-Tage-Karte” (7-day card, €26.20) instead, and you’ll not only get your money’s worth, but you’ll also give your feet a break from all that walking.

Check out the BVG’s website for complete details about fares and to download the free “Discovering Berlin by Train and Bus” flier. It includes a transport map and a city map marked with major sights.

The U55's celebratory first ride. Photo by Blogging Dagger.

Free Tourist Bus: The bus 100 and 200

The BVG does more than schlep you from Point A to B. The bus lines 100 and 200 double as unofficial city tour buses. As you travel between Zoologischer Garten in the west and Alexanderplatz in the east, you’ll pass by nearly every major landmark, including the Kaiser Wilhelm Gedächtniskirche (Emperor Wilhelm Memorial Church) on Kufürstendamm, the angel-capped Siegesäule (Victory Column) in Tiergarten, and the Brandenburger Tor at the base of Unter den Linden. Climb to the top of the double-decker bus, grab a window seat, and enjoy the view—all for €2.10.

Beer and a tram ride: The M10

To sample Berlin’s nightlife without paying a cover charge, buy a beer at a late-night kiosk and take a ride on the M10 streetcar, which travels between Nordbahnhof (on the Mitte/Prenzlauer Berg border) and Warschauer Strasse (on the Friedrichshain/Kreuzberg border).

When night falls, the so-called “party express” tram turns into club of sorts: club-crawlers and bar-hoppers, beers in hand, hitch a ride on the way to party spots in Prenzlauer Berg, Friedrichshain, and Kreuzberg. You’ll see a kaleidoscope of types: hyped-up dance-clubbers, low-key hipsters, pierced punks, and chained gothsters. (If you join them out on the town, a night bus, designated with an N, will take you home after the festivities.)

Sea even more: The F10

The BVG will even take you out to sea. You can cross two of the city’s largest lakes, the Wannsee in the west and the Müggelsee in the east, by ferry.

If you’re out west, pick up the F10, which docks just outside the Wannsee S-bahn stop, for a ride across the tree-fringed lake to the village of Kladow. Over in the east, take either the F23 or the F24 to criss-cross the vast Müggelsee, which includes the smaller Kleiner Müggelsee, a popular swimming hole, and the Grosser Müggelsee, which fills up with sail boats on sunny days.

About the author: A Pittsburgh native, Susan Buzzelli has been a sworn Germanophile since she spent a high school summer as an exchange student in Buxtehude. After stints in Dresden, Munich, and Hamburg she settled (possibly for good) in Europe’s most dynamic city: Berlin. When she isn’t exploring Berlin, she’s traveling throughout Germany (with an occasional hop over the border). Her comprehensive guidebook to Germany, Zeitguide Germany, will be published soon. Look for updates on her website, www.susanbuzzelli.com.

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Genoa's old harbour. Photo by hidden europe.

By Nicky Gardner and Susanne Kries in Berlin—

Arriving at one of Europe’s great port cities other than by boat is a travel no-no. The planners who oversaw the growth of great ports such as Cádiz or Constanta, Venice or Genoa assumed that visitors, be they friend or foe, would naturally arrive by sea.

Yet so many travellers today, in their pursuit of speed, choose back-door routes into ancient ports, and thus fail to get the right perspective on their chosen destination.

Venice: Arriving in style

That’s one of the reasons why we at hidden europe are so keen on the Alilaguna water bus services that connect Venice’s Marco Polo airport with the city centre. Our favorite Alilaguna run is the “blue route” which takes 80 minutes to reach San Marco from the airport, with stops along the way at the island of Murano and the Venice Lido. The final run into San Marco is exquisite, with superb views of the Isola di San Giorgio Maggiore and tantalising glimpses, up beyond the landing stage at San Marco, to the seaward end of the Canal Grande.

Genoa connections

Last week, we hopped along the coast of Liguria by boat, and much enjoyed the forty-minute run from Pegli into Genoa’s old port on a local ferry. This was not one of those posh tourist boats, but rather a humble municipal ferry run by local company AMT Genova.

Pegli is a nice enough spot, worth a visit in itself. The ferry from Pegli quay to Genoa leaves ten times each day (six times daily at weekends and public holidays), and is a great deal. A modest outlay of €1.20 (€2 if purchased on board) will get you an AMT Genova ticket valid on the company’s buses and boat services (and local trains, too) for 90 minutes. Enough to allow you to cruise from Pegli to Genoa and back again if you wish.

Ports for the future

True, if you have time and funds to spare, you could board one of the stylish Grandi Navi Veloci (GNV) ferries in Tunis or Tangier and a day or two later arrive at the modern ferry terminal west of Genoa’s city centre. But the AMT ship, called the “Onda Azzurra,” outsmarts the GNV long distance ferries by sailing right into the very heart of Genoa’s old port. On the way over from Pegli, you’ll see thousands of cranes, skirt the wharves of a busy working port, and then gaze on Genoa at its best—a fabulous medley of palazzi and churches rising in tiers behind the old port.

It would be sheer perfection, had not traffic planners in the mid-sixties constructed an elevated highway that skirts the waterfront, so creating an eyesore that unhappily severs the visual link between the old port and the ancient city it once served. The “Strada sopraelevata” is an environmental disaster, a travesty that mocks a once handsome port, but built at a time when city planners thought that ports were a mere relic of history.

The renaissance of the Porto Antico in Genoa over the last fifteen years shows just how wrong those planners were. Today the quaysides bustle as visitors queue to see one of Europe’s largest aquariums, locals throng waterfront bars and restaurants, and migrants from Senegal tout some of the strangest designer handbags and sunglasses that we’ve ever seen.

About the authors: Susanne Kries and Nicky Gardner are regular contributors to EuroCheapo and together edit hidden europe magazine.

Also see: Our recommended list of budget hotels in Venice.

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You simply can’t leave Amsterdam without getting wet. While a traditional canal cruise that tours the lively and lovely harbor of Amsterdam will cost upwards of €14 depending on whether or not food is served, free ferry rides leave daily from the city center and go to some of its lesser known stopping grounds.

From either jetty 7 or 8 in Central Station, you can hop on one of three ferries: Java ferry, Adelaarsweg ferry, or the Buiksloterweg ferry. The most popular route is on Buiksloterweg (jetty 7 at Central Station); this ferry service travels to the oldest part of Amsterdam’s harbor and takes you from central Amsterdam to North-Amsterdam via IJsselmeer Lake, the body of water that separates the two areas.

We recommend taking all three boat trips, but if you only have time for one, get on the Buiksloterweg. This ride takes about five minutes, but offers a slew of photo opps and some of the best views of the canals and of the IJ shoreline.

Hey, turns out there is such a thing as a free ride! For more information, visit the Holland Tourism Board’s web site.

Join us again tomorrow, Cheapos, for another free tip. Next stop? Athens!

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Cheapo’s traveling to (or living in) New York City, take note: On Wednesday, June 18, the city’s first IKEA opened in the Red Hook neighborhood of Brooklyn. It’s notable (and controversial) for many reasons, but right now we’d like to focus on the budget travel implications of the new store.

The store offers a free water taxi service every 20 minutes (from 8 AM to 10 PM) from Pier 11 in lower Manhattan, just south of South Street Seaport. Even if you’re not in the mood for shopping, the ferry could provide an entertaining diversion. It’s free — no proof of purchase required. Once at IKEA, you can enjoy a moderately priced Swedish-themed meal, pick up some house wares, or simply re-board and head back to Manhattan.

Last night, on the store’s second day, I wanted to check it out. So, I rode my bike down to the pier after work and met my friend Greg Young, with whom I produce the weekly “Bowery Boys” podcast (a weekly podcast on the history of New York City, sponsored by EuroCheapo). As the opening of the Swedish furniture behemoth is a notable event in the city’s history, we felt a certain responsibility to show up and register its impact.

Free ferry ride to Red Hook

There, at Pier 11, was a bright yellow ferry, its side emblazoned with a navy blue IKEA logo. We were greeted by the New York Waterways’ crew, which operates the IKEA ferry (as well as several other water taxis around the city). Contrary to my expectations, there were hardly any other passengers around. One crew member handed us each a free ticket, while another collected it as we stepped aboard the vessel. I locked my bike up on the deck. We sat inside, although we should have headed upstairs to the open-air upper deck (clearly more fun).

The ferry ride is great. You pull out into the harbor, then pass along the north side of Governor’s Island, floating along the Brooklyn shore. As you arrive at Red Hook, you pass the shipping yards, round the bend, pass the Fairway supermarket, and pull into the IKEA port. Behind the pier, the big blue box beckons.

Swedish-inspired dinner for $6.99

Once inside, we headed straight for the restaurant (pushing our way passed the clown-greeters as quickly as possible!). There was almost no wait. Apple-glazed salmon with veggies, with lingonberry juice for $6.99? Check! (The famed Swedish meatballs with mashed potatoes are an even cheaper option.)

Touring the store (optional) 

Finishing dinner, we took the tour of the IKEA. You know the scene. Notably: Many interior settings (bedroom with funky wallpaper, office with fake computer, kitchen with faux photos) are complimented with giant floor to ceiling windows looking out over the neighborhood, waterfront, and skyline. We witnessed many shoppers taking a break and simply stopping to gaze out the windows.

Downstairs in the “Marketplace,” pick up a 100-pack of “Glimma” tea candles for $3.99. The check-out was a breeze.

Free ride home

Greg and I emerged from IKEA at 8:45, two hours after we walked in. We carried our purchases in two bright blue sacks ($.59). “If it can fit in the sack, you can take it on the water taxi” reads the sign at the dock. However, if you buy a new sofa or a children’s bedroom set, you’ll have to pay for delivery. 

A water taxi was waiting at the pier. There were probably 15 other passengers on board. We climbed up to the top deck as the boat reversed and began its trek back to Manhattan. How strange to see the Statue of Liberty sliding by behind Governor’s Island. How odd to see the other side of the passing Staten Island Ferry. How great to be taking a boat ride for free.

Editor’s Note: Although the ferry was nearly empty, and the store and restaurant were not jammed with other customers, we can only assume that this was because it was a Thursday night and the store had only been open for two days. We’re also assuming that, like other free and fabulous things in this city, soon enough this attraction will also be crawling with people. In the meantime, however, we recommend stepping aboard.

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Author, reporter, and NPR correspondent Scott Huler recently returned from an epic journey tracing the tale of Homer’s “Odyssey.” After reading “No-Man’s Lands,” his insightful recounting of the trip, we asked him for advice on planning a similar journey—on a budget.

Scott had some great advice:

When Odysseus set off on an epic voyage, he had some non-cheapo advantages: his ships were filled with treasure from the Trojan War, and if supplies ran low it was perfectly reasonable to come ashore and make a brief pirate raid on a coastal town.

That wasn’t going to work for me. When I set out to retrace his journey from Troy to Ithaca, I had little more than a backpack, a tight budget, and a pregnant wife at home. Just the same, I found the cheaper-than-cheap backpack route from Troy to Ithaca perfect for me. I had more than a dozen stops to make. Add to that Athens and the tiny Turkish town of Kesan, and my journey covered around 20 cities in Turkey, Greece, Tunisia, Italy (where I visited the catacombs in Rome), France, and Malta. Finally, I arrived on the western tip of Sicily.

Here are five things you should know if you ever make an epic journey on a small-scale budget:

1. Get your doner on!

In Turkey, if it’s spinning on a vertical spit, it’s probably doner, which is like Greek gyro and delicious almost beyond imagination. But beware: If it’s spinning on a horizontal spit it’s probably kokorec, which is sheep guts, and tastes like sheep guts. If you suddenly find yourself buying kokorec, just get them to put a lot of pepper on it. You can get a few bites down before you turn the corner and find a trash can. Be sure to smile and wave at the vendor. You’ll be a good story for them.

2. Use your words.

Don’t be embarrassed to take a guided tour in the language of your choice: you left home to understand people and places different from you, right? You’ll learn a lot more, and if you stick with trustworthy sources (the museum’s free audio guide rather than the guy who starts plucking at your sleeve after you walk in), you’ll pay only a reasonable fee augmented by, of course, a reasonable tip. I had a guided tour of Troy that got my journey started just right, and I might have missed some very cool stuff had I been too savvy for it all.

3. Buy cheap(er) overnight accommodation.

Here’s how. Take an overnight ferry and pay the extra euros for a room. If you’re traveling alone, pay the addition for a single. Defending territory on couches in saloon bars or hunkering down in chilly winds on deck sounds romantic in a post-college kind of way, but unless you’re absolutely destitute, the extra € 20 will be well worth it, turning a sleepless night into a night of almost delightful, private peace.

4. Take the bus (especially in Turkey).

Not only is the bus one of the cheapest—and greenest—modes of transport, but it’s civilized beyond measure. In Turkey, for example, where I rode the bus everywhere, there’s air conditioning, oriental rugs down the center aisle, free cakes, water, and orange soda. Plus every couple hours or so an attendant brings around a little dash of bergamot cologne. Talk about luxury for less! (Visit the main bus terminal in Istanbul to learn more or to get moving.)

5. When in Rome, stay near the train station.

In Rome, I loved the Hotel Stromboli. Tourist guides will tell you to avoid the hotels near the Stazione Termini, but I think they’re crazy. Cheap rooms abound (if you’re clever, you can get them at the Stromboli for 50 euros or so), and there are tons of paninotecas with delicious and cheap hot sandwiches that keep travelers fueled for a couple euros a pop. Plus, you’ll find plenty of nearby nasoni fountains to keep water bottles full for free and you have constant, convenient access to the train station. No place in Rome is too far to walk from there and when it’s time to head to the airport, that’s exactly where the cheap buses depart from. There are dozens of cheap, clean, and safe hotels in this unfairly maligned neighborhood. It’s where you want to be.

See EuroCheapo’s recommendations for hotels South and North of Termini Station in Rome.

About the author: Scott Huler has written for such newspapers as the New York Times, the Washington Post, the Philadelphia Inquirer, and the Los Angeles Times and such magazines as Backpacker, Fortune, and Child. His award-winning radio work has been heard on “All Things Considered” and “Day to Day” on National Public Radio and on “Marketplace” and “Splendid Table” on American Public Media. He has been a staff writer for the Philadelphia Daily News and the Raleigh News & Observer and a staff reporter and producer for Nashville Public Radio. He was the founding and managing editor of the Nashville City Paper. He sometimes serves as guest host on “The State of Things” on WUNC-FM. No-Man’s Lands is his fifth book. He lives in Raleigh, North Carolina, with his wife, the writer June Spence; they have a son and another child on the way.

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Looking for ways to save some euros while visiting Amsterdam? Here are five suggestions:

Try some flower power.

Visiting the masterpieces at the Rijksmuseum will set you back €10, but the baroque and renaissance gardens behind it are free to stroll. Delight in the fountains, statues, and the carefully coiffed hedges and plants. The gardens are open daily from 9 am to 6 pm. Baroque gardens are closed on the weekends.

(Note: The Rijksmuseum is undergoing extensive renovations that are scheduled to last until 2010. Until then, visitors may visit a scaled down “best of” collection entitled ”The Masterpieces.”)

Pick up a passport to paintings. 

Speaking of the Rijksmuseum, we’re flying high about the joint venture between the museum and Amsterdam’s Schipol Airport. The Rijksmuseum Amsterdam Schipol, an art space at the airport maintained by the museum, offers annual exhibits free of charge. This year, an impressive collection of Van Gogh paintings is on display. The gallery is just behind the passport control desks—and is open from 7 am to 10 pm. So, get your stamp and your art on!

Go Dutch!

Ever wondered how to say “ham sandwich” in Dutch? (The answer is broodje ham).  Why not sign up for a local chat buddy and learn even more? Check out the University of Amsterdam’s Web site and bulletin board to find a partner in conversation. Or, just try Craigslist. Our friends over at Trippist recommend the Student Language Exchange too. What better way to connect with Dutch culture than to go, quite literally, Dutch!

Park  yourself.

It’s no secret that Amsterdam has some of the prettiest and most extensive parks. Our favorites include Vondelpark and Beatrixpark. For more space and to catch a game of Frisbee, try Vondel. Another Vondel bonus? Free concerts abound, especially during the summer months. Beatrix is your best bet for quiet and quaint. Relax on a blanket, pull out a good book, and prepare to catch some rays and shut eye.

Go over the river.

Since Amsterdam’s touristy canal tours can get pricey, we recommend the free ferry (about a 5-minute ride) from Central Station (the Ruyterkade) over the River IJ. We admit, the tour isn’t long, but it offers a great view of Amsterdam’s shoreline and lets visitors fully appreciate Amsterdam’s rich port and shipping trade history. Ferries leave every 7.5 minutes between 6:30 am and 11 pm daily; every quarter hour at other times of day.

If you’ve rented a bike, spend the day on the other side, touring the countryside and nearby small villages of Monnickendam, Marken, and Volendam. Cycling maps are available at all of Amsterdam’s bike shops (read more about this countryside bike tour).

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