The hills of Fiesole. Photo by clickykbd.

By Marc Anani in Florence:

Florence—architectural empress, city of beauty, city of love. Florence—city of body jams, packed piazzas, and tourist traps. The hoards of keen tourists can be exhausting and if you’re like me, you just want a little patch of peace from time to time to re-sharpen your explorer senses.

Enter Fiesole, a charming village on Florence’s doorstep.

How Fiesole Came to Be

A former walled city founded by the Etruscan civilization in the 7th century BC, the city of Fiesole is best known as a Roman colony and military nemesis of its neighbor Florence.

Its altitude above the hills and strategic location for surveying the region’s rivers made it a prized jewel for conquerors, namely the Romans who eventually made Fiesole a colony in 90 BC. In the early Middle Ages, Fiesole was more powerful that Florence, and the two cities fought several wars. Over time, Florence won the city over, which led the rich residents of Renaissance Florence to build their villas in Fiesole.

How to Get There

Take public transit bus no. 7 from Florence for a short 20 minute ride up through twisting Tuscan roads. You can check bus schedules at ATAF.net.

For the brave wishing to save, there are trails leading downhill back to Florence. The tourist office just off Fiesole’s main square (Piazza Mino) where the bus drops you off will be able to give you more information about walking trails and things going on.

What To Do in Fiesole

One good reason for visiting Fiesole is to take in its awesome view of Florence. Its altitude of almost 1,000 feet will allow you to peer over Florence from either of Fiesole’s two peaks: the S. Francesco or the S. Apollinare. I recommend enjoying a picnic just below the San Francesco Monastery to take in Florence’s panorama. Pass by the Coop supermarket just off Piazza Mino for picnic supplies instead of sipping an overpriced soda at one of the cafés lining the piazza.

Be sure check out Fiesole’s Roman theatre, which hosts outdoor plays, films and concerts in the summer evenings. Access to the Roman theatre and adjoining archeological site will cost you around €6, which isn’t too expensive for the city’s main attractions.

Other attractions include the Cattedrale di San Romolo (the town’s Duomo), the Museo Bandini (whose collection includes pieces by Michelangelo) and the Museo Missionario Francescano Fiesole (below the San Francesco Monestary), where you’ll find more Etruscan and Roman archeological treasures.

Did you Know?

Herman Hesse, the Nobel Prize winning author of “Siddhartha” and “Steppenwolf” often spent time in Fiesole, as he felt inspired by both the Fiesolan countryside and its residents.

Useful Links

Fiesole Tourism Site
City of Fiesole Main Site
Fiesole Cultural Program

About the Author: Marc Anani is a fiction writer living in Tuscany.

Popularity: 6% [?]

The intricate facade of Florence’s Duomo is worth a visit. Photo by Catching Flies

One of our favorite must-sees in Florence is the Duomo, or the Cathedral of Santa Maria del Fiore (sometimes known as Florence Cathedral). And, lucky for us Cheapos, it’s free to enter the main sanctuary daily. 

Duomo do!

But, get this. Did you know that every 40 minutes Florence’s Center for Art and Culture also offers FREE guided tours of the church? Highlights of the jaunt include a look into the care and craft of that gorgeous facade, why the church was originally built, and more.  Tours are available in English and Italian.

Before you go…

If you plan to take a tour, enter the sanctuary via the left-side doors. The church is open Monday, Tuesday, Wednesday, and on Fridays from 10 AM to 5 PM; Thursday it’s open from 10 AM to 3:30 PM; Saturday it opens at 10 AM and closes at 4:45 PM. On Sunday, the sanctuary is only open from 1:30 PM to 4:45 PM.  And, the first Saturday of each month the church is only open from 10 AM to 3:30 PM. For information on special holiday hours and more, visit the Duomo’s official tourism site.

Note: If you want to see more of the basilica and travel up the stairs to the top of the dome, you’ll need to shell out €8. (Hint: We think it’s worth it.)

For more information and lots of budget tips for Florence, go here.

Popularity: 17% [?]

The San Lorenzo market in Florence. Photo by Madame’s Travels

Florence is a hot spot for fashion, but that doesn’t mean tourists have to pay high prices for ready-to-wear souvenirs. In fact, quality clothing and accessories can be found for only a few euros at a number of outdoor markets in Florence.

Fashion in the streets of Firenze

The outdoor Mercato Nuovo, the “Straw Market,” buzzes daily beneath a gorgeous multi-block loggia in central Florence. These vendors sell high-quality leather items, straw bags and hats, scarves, and wallets (not to mention those mini-David statuettes and cooking aprons!). We suggest smaller, cheaper, and easy-to-pack items. The Mercato Nuovo is located at the intersection of Via Calimala and Via Porta Rossa.

Less picturesque, the outdoor market at San Lorenzo is an easier place to haggle with sellers. Expect crowds, barking vendors, the smell of leather, and a mix of quality and shoddy goods. This market is popular with tourists, locals, and pickpockets, so keep a watchful eye.

While you’re at it…

Take home some Italian shopping bags. A regular old plastic bag transforms into a high-class fashion statement when “Firenze” is stamped across it.

Also see: Our guide to budget hotels in Florence.

Popularity: 14% [?]