A villa in Tuscany. Photo by Nika.

By Pete Meyers—

A few years ago my wife and I pulled a daredevil stunt: We rented a 1,100 year old villa in Tuscany and invited both sides of our families to join us for a week-long vacation.

Now, before you ask “what were you thinking?” or say “that doesn’t sound particularly Cheapo, Pete,” let me explain further.

Yes, the villa we rented was admittedly off-the-charts decadent. It had seven large bedrooms, five bathrooms, a kitchen nearly as large as my current apartment, a billiard room, a dining room, a massive living room area, an in-ground pool whose gorgeousness was eclipsed only by its vineyard view, and—somewhat inexplicably—a separate, small chapel on the grounds. And just to round it off, there were also large stone lion statues adjacent to the front doors, greeting us upon our return from schlepping around the countryside.

But did we mention the entire week-long stay cost each person roughly $70 per night? Sure, you can beat the pants off that price at a number of our Editor’s Picks in Florence (while actually being in Florence rather than a 45-minute drive outside) but for everything that the villa had to offer, we felt the price was reasonable. And for the sheer experience of the endeavor we were willing to shell out a few extra euros.

But looking back on our trip, there are a number of tips and recommendations that would have been helpful to know when we were planning our stay. Here are some things to consider when renting a villa in Tuscany:

1. Prepare to “hub” it.

If you’re planning to explore a particular region - rather than just one specific city - renting a villa makes sense. Our villa was located near the village of Traversa, making it easy to “hub it” and visit Florence, Pisa, Siena, Cinque Terre, Bologna, and even Venice during our trip. Which brings us to our next tip…

2. Get ready to drive.

Rent a car and plan on driving it a lot. This might seem obvious to most, but prior to our trip we didn’t really consider how frequently we’d be driving around the region. Fortunately we had several eager drivers among us who were particularly adept with manual transmissions. Otherwise, we likely wouldn’t have strayed too far from our residence. Which, again, brings us to our next tip…

3. Get cooking.

While most villa rental agencies offer decadent, home-cooked meals on the premises at an extra cost, part of what made our experience so special was handling all meals ourselves (plus it saved a whole lot of money). There was never any shortage of ingredients at local markets for our nightly dinners and we found that a large part of our daily routine revolved around dinner planning. And we loved it.

4. Get ready for some family time.

For our group, part of what made renting a villa so special was traveling as a big family. Sure, we experienced our fair share of “I think it’s your turn to do the dishes” moments, but we still frequently reflect and laugh about our hysterical experience of sleeping in the Tuscan castle.

When renting a villa in Tuscany might not make sense

1. You don’t like your in-laws. Just kidding. Promise.

2. You don’t like driving through twisty, turny, slightly nerve-wracking roads. If this is the case, you might be better off staying in a city rather than in the winding hills.

3. When the math doesn’t work out. Budget wisely and consider all the incidental expenses of renting a villa. While the per person price of accommodation itself can be similar to that of  2 and 3-star hotels, you’ll also pay for food, car rentals, gas, electricity, a cleaning fee, and any other incidentals that spring up.

Websites that specialize in renting villas in Tuscany and elsewhere

There are many helpful websites that provide reservation services for villa rental throughout Europe. Most offer large format, high quality photos that should stir up your excitement. Here are a few that we recommend checking out:

Parker Villas - Specializes in villas through Italy. Parker Villas was one of the first villa rental agencies we discovered when we started our search.

Tuscany Now - Large listing of villas for rent in Tuscany, Umbria, Lazio, Sicily, and other regions in Italy.

VRBO - While not technically a villa reservation agency, VRBO does feature many properties in Tuscany and beyond, plus the rates tend to be a bit more reasonable.

Cuendet - Offers villas in Croatia, Italy, France, and Spain (and was the website we used when booking ours).

Tell us: Have you ever rented a villa in Italy or elsewhere? Share your experience with other Cheapos by leaving a comment below.

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A bus in Florence. Photo by waxorian.

By Laura Mongillo in Florence—

Florence is a small and very walkable city, but that doesn’t mean you’ll never need a break from treading the cobblestone streets. Thus, visitors to Florence will benefit from understanding the city’s bus network.

Here’s a warning: it’s not easy, but it can be done. It’s always tempting to take the hop-on hop-off tourist buses, but if you don’t feel like shelling out €20, you should learn to travel like the locals.

The basics

The bus lines in Florence are pretty complicated, and they often change due to roadwork. The easiest thing to do is to pick up a bus map or ask the driver where the bus goes. However, it’s always best to plan out a bus trip beforehand so as not to get lost, as most buses continue outside of the city center. Route information can be found on the Florence bus Web site.

To catch a ride with the bus, you must first flag it down, as the driver only stops upon request. To get off at your stop, press the buttons on the railings or against the wall.

Tickets: Where (and why) to buy

Tickets cost €1.20 and are valid for 90 minutes. If you’re planning on taking the bus often, it’s more convenient to buy a Carta Agile for €10. The Carta Agile is an electronic ticket good for 12 journeys. You can buy one at any “tabaccheria” (tobacco store), which is marked by a large “T” over the door.  In a pinch, you can also buy a ticket from the bus driver at the higher price of €2.

In Florence, bus tickets work on the honor system: there is a machine inside where you either time-stamp your ticket or swipe your Carta Agile over the sensor to validate it.

It is all too easy to ride without a ticket, but I would greatly advise against this. Tickets are being controlled more often and the ticket controllers don’t fall for the dumb/cute foreigner bit. You will leave with a minimum €50 fine, paid on site.

Popular routes

If you’re touring central Florence and can’t stand to walk one more bit, there are small electric buses that service the city center on weekdays. The buses A, B, C, and D stop in main tourist areas such as Piazza San Marco, Santa Croce, Piazza Repubblica, and the Ponte Vecchio.

If the weather is nice, try taking Bus 17 from San Marco or the train station out to the Cascine, the Central Park of Florence. You’ll find long green lawns, tree-lined promenades, and plenty of kids playing soccer. It’s a great way to get some fresh air and lovely views of the river.

A few main attractions in Florence aren’t easily reachable on foot. Among these are the Piazzale Michelangelo, a large square offering lovely, panoramic views of the city, and the gorgeous church of San Miniato just up the hill. To get there you can take either the 12 or 13 bus from the Santa Maria Novella train station. The trip takes about 30 minutes, but the views are well worth it.

And don’t forget the hilltop town of Fiesole which you can reach by taking Bus 7 to its final stop. (See our earlier post about day trips to Fiesole.)

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Outside the Santa Margherita dei Cerchi. Photos by Laura Mongillo.

By Laura Mongillo in Florence—

Florence, along with the rest of Italy, is famous for its churches. Upon arriving in Florence, most tourists head to the Duomo for its giant brick dome, the Santa Maria Novella for its artwork, and Santa Croce for its crypt.

While these churches are the most well-known in Florence, they are certainly not the only ones—and in my opinion, not the most interesting ones. While the Duomo has free entrance, the inside is relatively sparse. Santa Maria Novella and Santa Croce are definitely worth a visit, but both require paid entry.

So, try to take a step away from the guidebook and visit these three interesting and peculiar (and admission-free) churches that you’ll find tucked away where you’d least expect them.

The Chiesa dei Santi Michele e Gaetano.

Chiesa dei Santi Michele e Gaetano
Piazza Antinori, Via Tornabuoni

While gazing longingly into the windows of the Hermès store, you might not notice this behemoth looming behind you. The Chiesa dei Santi Michele e Gaetano, also known as San Michele degli Antinori, is a large, dark church of the Baroque style—one of the few Baroque churches in Florence.

Aside from its size and serious exterior, what I find particularly fascinating about this church is its opening hours. You will often find it open late in the evening, around 8 or 9 PM. Feel free to wander in and gaze at the interesting examples of 17th-century artwork so often ignored in the city.

Santa Margherita dei Cerchi
Via Santa Margherita, off of Via del Corso

From the winding, bustling Via del Corso, take a right onto a side street and you’ll find yourself in front of a small brick building that, aside from the signs, would not be easily identified as a church.

This miniscule church (pictured at top), while lacking in decoration, is rich with history. For anyone that’s heard of Dante’s famous love for Beatrice, this is reportedly the small church in which they met. As the story goes, Dante fell madly in love with the beautiful, nine-year-old Beatrice upon seeing her at mass one morning.

Inside the church, you will find a tomb supposedly belonging to Beatrice. Take a look at the basket placed nearby, as it’s filled with letters and notes addressed to Beatrice by visitors and students from around the world in appreciation of the work her beauty inspired.

Inside the Chiesa di Santi Apostoli.

Chiesa di Santi Apostoli
Piazza del Limbo

On the picturesque Piazza del Limbo, you’ll find one of Florence’s old bath houses, a fancy oil shop, a luxurious hotel, and also this small, well-maintained medieval church.

If you have one euro, use it to turn on the lights to see better. You will find a small, simple layout with exquisite carved and painted wooden beams, paintings from various time periods, and—my personal favorite—a brightly colored ceramic piece made by the Della Robbia family.

About the author: Laura Mongillo holds an Undergraduate and Masters degree in Italian Studies from NYU and has been living in Florence, Italy for three years.

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Florence around the holidays. Photo by Simona83.

By Marc Anani in Florence—

Wanna catch Florence with her pants down? Then come for a visit during the winter!

The combination of being one of the most beautiful cities in the world and being blessed with a clement climate puts Florence at the mercy of vacationer invasions from spring to fall. But the winter seems to be some kind of tourist kryptonite as the season returns the streets to the Florentines.

So, without any more prosaic stalling, here are the reasons why you should come to Florence in the winter:

1. Weather

Don’t think Tuscany is impermeable to the cold, because it isn’t. The winter can be quite damp and even showers the valley with the odd snowflake (it actually snowed last night). However, you will get some of that lemony Tuscan sun during the daytime which feels oh so good on your face. Nothing is better than a coffee outside in December. But do dress warmly as the temperatures can dip down to the mid thirties in the evenings and night.

2. Atmosphere

If the summer is when Florentines head for hills and beach, winter is when they creep back on to the streets. During the cold months you’ll hear more Italian than at any other time of the year, whether it’s browsing the outdoor markets or sitting in a cozy cafe. Finer ears will also get a good dose of Fiorentino, Florence’s own dialect.

3. Things to Do

In a city where cutting in line is a national sport, you’ll find yourself walking straight into museums and art exhibits without having to spend half your afternoons waiting to be sardined in front of paintings. Dare I say it, you could even “museum hop” while flipping through the pages of your guide book.

Should you be in need of original stocking stuffers, why not check out the Florence Christmas Market at Piazza Santa Croce. You’ll find food, wine, decorations and of course, tons of souvenirs to bring back as presents.

For an activity off the tourist menu, why not go ice skating at the Parterre of Piazza della Liberta? The outdoor rink is open from 9 AM to 8 PM and 9 PM until midnight (1 AM on Fridays, Saturdays and Sundays) and is easily accessible by bus.

For music lovers, there are plenty of concerts to choose from to kick-start that Christmas spirit. For example, Chiesa San Marco on via Maggio offers daily concerts throughout the holiday season at a very affordable cost.

To ring in the new year, or “Capodanno” as they say here, meet the locals at the Fortezza da Basso, where the party begins at 10 PM on December 31 and goes all through the night until 8 AM the next day. The celebration features different styles of music and entertainment to suit every type of reveler.

Or just wander the streets admiring the sights and sounds and smells of winter in this marvelous city.

Marc Anani is a writer living in Florence. And no, it doesn’t pay the bills so he does other stuff too.

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FITC's 2008 production of "The Fantasticks!" Photo: FITC.

By Marc Anani in Florence—

Just over the Arno river is a little-known treasure for the international crowd that I bet isn’t in your Florence tour book. It’s a little place to sustain your vacation’s quest for culture while adding a contemporary twist to your day. I speak of the Florence International Theatre Company (FITC).

International theater in Florence

The FITC, founded in 2005 by actress Bari Hochwald, is where the local art universe celebrates international theater. The company offers a full range of world-class shows ranging from adaptations of the classics to poetry productions to one-man puppetry.

Most performances take place at the Teatro di Cestello—a quaint theater located in Piazza Cestello in Florence’s Oltrarno neighborhood—where a friendly English-speaking staff will welcome you to the evening’s performance. There is also a bar for those wishing to loosen up before or (and) after the show.

This year the theater also launched its own contribution to the Florence nightlife scene with “Late Night with FITC: Teatro Per Nottambuli.” These one-hour theater pieces start around 11:30 PM, following the evening’s main production and offer the spectator a unique experience in late night entertainment. It’s a perfect event for after dinner. Ticket prices are €12 (€10 for students).

Where to Go After the Show

Regardless of which performance you attend, you will be in need of liquid materials afterward to kick back and discuss. Not to worry, there is no need to go far, as super-cool La Libreria Café La Cité is located just a few streets away.

This bookshop café by day/bistro bar by night is set in a two-story loft held up by book stacks and scattered with wooden tables, retro chairs and couches. You’ll find a mixed crowd of students, artists, and locals overflowing onto the street outside to catch a cigarette (all bars in Italy are now non-smoking). Live music ranging from folk to tango can be heard almost any night, so be sure to check the website to see what’s on. Drinks are affordable, starting at €4, and the bar is open until early morning.

About the author: Marc Anani lives in Florence with his dog José.

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The food on offer at Mercato Centrale. Photo by bongo vongo.

By Marc Anani in Florence—

The average biped can only take in so many renaissance masterpieces without eventually giving in to an empty stomach. So where to eat cheap in the heart of Florence?

Well, here’s the thing: You’ll be tempted by quaint little trattorias offering tourist menus and a mustached host romancing you towards a table next to Laura and Bob from yesterday’s bus tour through the Chianti region. If that’s your thing, then have a seat. Some are not bad, some are not good, and most are overpriced.

The alternative you ask? Easy, head to the market— or the library.

San Lorenzo Mercato Centrale

Just a few blocks north of the Duomo, this burgundy edifice houses some of the best fresh fare in the world: Tuscan food! The market is set in a large building surrounded by a labyrinth of leather dealers and souvenir peddlers—perfect for post-lunch exploration. Inside the main market building, you’ll have the choice of either sitting down for a plate of pasta or having a sandwich made right before you eyes for about €2.50.

Don’t be intimidated by the assortment of meats and cheeses—most vendors will give you a taste of whatever you’re pointing at. The adventurous can try Florence’s very own “lampredotto” sandwich, which is made from the lining of the cow’s fourth (apparently the tastiest) stomach. You can also stock up on fruit, nuts or other pick-me-ups for the remainder of your travel day. Inexpensive bottles of wine are also available. The market is open Monday through Saturday from 7 AM to 2 PM.

Biblioteca delle Oblate

How passionate are Italians about their food? Even the public library offers an affordable hot meal for lunch. Next to the Duomo on Via Dell’Orovolo is the beautiful three-storey Biblioteca delle Oblate. This renaissance palazzo and former monastery includes a rooftop patio with a great view onto the Duomo where lunch is served at 12:30 and costs €5.

About the author: Marc Anani is a fiction writer living in Florence.

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The Duomo seen from Piazza Michelangelo. Photo by Foraggio Fotographic.

By Marc Anani in Florence—

So you’ve spent the whole day pounding the pavement in Florence like a proper tourist and now have a night to fill. You’re tired, you’re hungry, and you’re looking to hit the town on budget.

Here are a few suggestions for a “cheapo night out” in Florence.

Sunset with Michelangelo

Start with taking in the sunset over Florence at Piazza Michelangelo. The square offers a great view of the city’s medieval rooftops piercing through the orange sky. The area was designed in the late 19th century by the architect Giuseppe Poggion around the time of Florence’s brief stint as Italy’s capital.

You’ll find several bronze replica’s of Michelangelo’s sculptures including the renowned David. Don’t be surprised if you’re welcomed by people selling every type of tourist contraption known to mankind - just politely decline with “no, grazie“.

The square can be accessed by buses nos. 12 or 13 from downtown (this is a tourist-filled bus so be attentive to pickpockets) or if your feet are still in good shape, walk up to the piazza via Viale Michelangelo.

Eat, Drink & Chill

Next head to the crafty Oltrarno neighborhood for a taste of evening allegria. Piazza Santo Spirito is lined with cafés and has live music in the summer. The 15th-century Basilicata Santo Spirito is the square’s main star and is worth taking a peek inside for a stunning visit.

You can check opening hours here, otherwise, just sit on the front steps while enjoying a gelato from one of the nearby shops.

If you’re looking to sit down to eat, I recommend the nearby trendy, yet unpretentious, “Il Santo Bevito,” on nearby via Santo Spirito. They serve traditional Tuscan cuisine with a contemporary twist at surprisingly affordable prices. The ceilings are high, the lighting is just right, the staff is friendly, and a plate of pasta goes for as low as 7 euros.

If you prefer to have a few drinks, stop by Caffe degli Artigiani near Piazza Della Passera. This quaint little corner cafe has an outdoor patio on one of Florence’s narrowest streets, Via Toscanella. They also have homemade snacks, should you need a little boost.

Did you know?

Women taking taxis alone in Florence are entitled to a 10% discount. Be sure to remind the driver, as they sometimes forget…

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The hills of Fiesole. Photo by clickykbd.

By Marc Anani in Florence:

Florence—architectural empress, city of beauty, city of love. Florence—city of body jams, packed piazzas, and tourist traps. The hoards of keen tourists can be exhausting and if you’re like me, you just want a little patch of peace from time to time to re-sharpen your explorer senses.

Enter Fiesole, a charming village on Florence’s doorstep.

How Fiesole Came to Be

A former walled city founded by the Etruscan civilization in the 7th century BC, the city of Fiesole is best known as a Roman colony and military nemesis of its neighbor Florence.

Its altitude above the hills and strategic location for surveying the region’s rivers made it a prized jewel for conquerors, namely the Romans who eventually made Fiesole a colony in 90 BC. In the early Middle Ages, Fiesole was more powerful that Florence, and the two cities fought several wars. Over time, Florence won the city over, which led the rich residents of Renaissance Florence to build their villas in Fiesole.

How to Get There

Take public transit bus no. 7 from Florence for a short 20 minute ride up through twisting Tuscan roads. You can check bus schedules at ATAF.net.

For the brave wishing to save, there are trails leading downhill back to Florence. The tourist office just off Fiesole’s main square (Piazza Mino) where the bus drops you off will be able to give you more information about walking trails and things going on.

What To Do in Fiesole

One good reason for visiting Fiesole is to take in its awesome view of Florence. Its altitude of almost 1,000 feet will allow you to peer over Florence from either of Fiesole’s two peaks: the S. Francesco or the S. Apollinare. I recommend enjoying a picnic just below the San Francesco Monastery to take in Florence’s panorama. Pass by the Coop supermarket just off Piazza Mino for picnic supplies instead of sipping an overpriced soda at one of the cafés lining the piazza.

Be sure check out Fiesole’s Roman theatre, which hosts outdoor plays, films and concerts in the summer evenings. Access to the Roman theatre and adjoining archeological site will cost you around €6, which isn’t too expensive for the city’s main attractions.

Other attractions include the Cattedrale di San Romolo (the town’s Duomo), the Museo Bandini (whose collection includes pieces by Michelangelo) and the Museo Missionario Francescano Fiesole (below the San Francesco Monestary), where you’ll find more Etruscan and Roman archeological treasures.

Did you Know?

Herman Hesse, the Nobel Prize winning author of “Siddhartha” and “Steppenwolf” often spent time in Fiesole, as he felt inspired by both the Fiesolan countryside and its residents.

Useful Links

Fiesole Tourism Site
City of Fiesole Main Site
Fiesole Cultural Program

About the Author: Marc Anani is a fiction writer living in Tuscany.

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The vibrant city of Florence, chock full of some of the most world-renowned Renaissance art and architecture, is always surprising us. This week, we were happy to learn that the Bardini Museum, which kept its doors shut for renovations for nearly a decade, has finally reopened.

A little bit of history

The museum is named for Stefano Bardini (1836-1922), an art dealer known for his flair for Renaissance art and his love of blue painted walls (he originally trained as a painter). In 1922, Bardini donated his life’s labor—and the building he housed it all in—to the city of Florence. For years, the museum was open to the public and showcased most of his own personal collection.

Fun fact: Fans of Bardini’s collection during his lifetime included the famed Bostonian Isabella Stewart Gardner, a great collector in her own right. She even used his signature blue-painted exhibition walls in her own self-made museum.

In with the new

The improved Bardini Museum is said to be a one-stop for some of the most unique Renaissance art in Europe. This week, and in the future, the museum will be offering lectures and tours too.

Highlights of the collection include Roman sarcophagi, delicate wooden sculptures, and works attributed to Donatello and Pisano. Newer acquisitions now grace the halls as well as many others thought to be from between the 12th and 15th centuries. All are presented in the Bardini’s unique setting where columns, altars, and even stairs from original Romanesque and Renaissance-era buildings lend the museum’s spaces an authentic, ethereal feel.

If you go…

The Bardini is located at Via dei Renai, 37 (Ponte alle Grazie) and is open Saturdays, Sundays,  and on Mondays from 11 AM to 5 PM. Admission is €5 (adults), €4 (students and seniors), or €2 (children).

For more information, you can visit the Bardini’s site (only in Italian).

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The intricate facade of Florence’s Duomo is worth a visit. Photo by Catching Flies

One of our favorite must-sees in Florence is the Duomo, or the Cathedral of Santa Maria del Fiore (sometimes known as Florence Cathedral). And, lucky for us Cheapos, it’s free to enter the main sanctuary daily. 

Duomo do!

But, get this. Did you know that every 40 minutes Florence’s Center for Art and Culture also offers FREE guided tours of the church? Highlights of the jaunt include a look into the care and craft of that gorgeous facade, why the church was originally built, and more.  Tours are available in English and Italian.

Before you go…

If you plan to take a tour, enter the sanctuary via the left-side doors. The church is open Monday, Tuesday, Wednesday, and on Fridays from 10 AM to 5 PM; Thursday it’s open from 10 AM to 3:30 PM; Saturday it opens at 10 AM and closes at 4:45 PM. On Sunday, the sanctuary is only open from 1:30 PM to 4:45 PM.  And, the first Saturday of each month the church is only open from 10 AM to 3:30 PM. For information on special holiday hours and more, visit the Duomo’s official tourism site.

Note: If you want to see more of the basilica and travel up the stairs to the top of the dome, you’ll need to shell out €8. (Hint: We think it’s worth it.)

For more information and lots of budget tips for Florence, go here.

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