A section of the East Side Gallery in Berlin. Photos by Campru.

Berlin—Critic and curator Emilie Trice writes, “Berlin is the graffiti mecca of the urban art world.” And a recent New York Times article confirms Trice’s assertion with the observation that “The city’s skyline might be defined by a Sputnik-era TV tower, bombed-out churches and the ghost of a certain wall that once split the German capital. But its streetscape is largely molded by graffiti.”

It is therefore unsurprising that the city’s art landscape includes a number of galleries exclusively showing street art. Overkill Shop, Circle Culture, and Intoxicated Demons are a few choice examples of galleries specializing in bringing street art inside. And recent super-successful shows by celebrated local street artists such as EVOL and Jaybo Aka Monk demonstrate the commercial viability of street art for international collectors.

A graffiti guide

Street art in Berlin.

But for everyone interested in just appreciating the work in its natural habitat, there is a new book by graphic designer Benjamin Wolbergs, “Urban Illustration Berlin: Street Art Cityguide.” The book makes the perfect guide for a walking tour through Berlin’s outdoor street art scene.

Written in both German and English, the book offers exclusive interviews with seventeen of the elusive artists. Wolbergs does not limit his focus to spray paint. Instead, he gives attention to the rich range of stencils, cutouts, markers and wheatpaste works across the city.

Wolbergs’ stunning street photography in “Urban Illustration Berlin: Street Art Cityguide,” along with the interviews’ insight into the artists’ working techniques, motives, and philosophies on street art, make the book a valuable purchase, regardless of whether one is planning a visit to Berlin.

A self-guided graffiti walking tour

However, the book’s real treasure is a tear-out city map detailing the locations of 500 iconic and admired instances of Berlin’s street art featured in the book. Tear it out and take yourself on a walking tour.

Street art is fragile. And a few of the works Wolbergs spotlighted no longer exist. But the neighborhoods remain active areas for street artists and well worth visiting for anyone interested in the origins of Berlin’s vibrant international art scene.

Popularity: 14% [?]

A temporary exhibit at Centquatre. Photos by Liz Webber.

By Liz Webber in Paris—

Wandering through Paris‘ many museums, it’s easy to see how the city was once a place to which artists flocked from all over the world in order to practice their crafts.

But wait, it still is! And the new art being created isn’t hidden away behind closed doors. The Centquatre center in the 20th Arrondissement offers visitors a chance to mingle with artists of today as they watch new masterpieces take shape.

From dealing with death to the birth of new art

Centquatre or “104,” so named because of its address at 104 Rue d’Aubervilliers, was constructed by the Church in 1873, but the Municipal Funeral Service took over the building in 1905 as a sort of giant funeral home for all of Paris. In 1993 the burial process was decentralized, and the building eventually closed in 1997.

Work began on transforming the site into a space for artists nearly a decade later. Centquatre opened to the public in October 2008. This year (2009), almost 200 artists from around the world will have the opportunity to take up temporary residence in one of the center’s 18 studios.

Discovering the artists at work

Vergara's murals

Although visitors cannot wander through the work spaces as they please, the artists’ often throw open their doors to show off their latest works or even let the public participate in the creative process.

Just last week (May 2009), visitors mingled in the main hall of the Centquatre under murals created by the Peruvian artist Juan Diego Vergara. A few doors down, actors held an open rehearsal for the plays “Phèdre” and “Hippolyte,” to be performed in October 2009.

Events vary by the day, so check the agenda online to find out what’s going on during your visit. Pay special attention to those marked with a “G” for “gratuit” (free). Most studio openings take place late in the afternoon, and there tend to be more events on Fridays and weekends.

Show me more Centquatre!

Centquatre also offers three tours each week for a very-manageable 5 €. A general tour takes place on Sundays at 3 PM, the history and architecture tour is Saturdays at 4 PM, and tours conducted by neighborhood residents take place Sundays at 4 PM.

The center is a bit off the beaten path but easily reachable by metro line 7 (station Riquet). Centquatre is open every day, except Monday, from 11 AM to 9 PM; it closes at 11 PM on Friday and Saturday.

About the author: Liz Webber is a freelance journalist living and working in Paris. She has previously worked for the International Herald Tribune and Budget Travel.

Popularity: 6% [?]

By Bill Sinclair in Barcelona—

Barcelona is a treasure trove of art and architecture—and free champagne.  No, seriously. Tag along on our gallery tour and you’ll experience some very cool art while clinking a glass or two of free Catalan cava or French champagne.

Let’s go!

Sala Parés
Calle de Petritxol 5, 08002

The best time to check out Sala Parés is on a Thursday afternoon, say around 7 PM.  Located off Calle de Petritxol, a narrow street lined with galleries that runs parallel to Las Ramblas (Metro Liceu – Line 3- Green line), the space was founded in 1840 and is the oldest public commercial art gallery in Europe. In fact, it staged a young Picasso’s first public exhibition in 1901.

The gallery has three exhibition spaces showing off current work and pieces from 19th- and 20th-century collections. Time your drop-in right and you can catch an opening of recent work by one of the gallery’s esteemed stable of artists. For opening, the staff will—you guessed it!—be serving free cava and chilled white wine.

OK, keep up. Put that glass down – we’re off to the next stop…

Gracia Arts Project
Calle Sant Honorat, 11, 08002

To get from the oldest gallery to one of the city’s newest, stroll across the Plaça de Sant Josep Oriol onto Calle Banys Nous (and its antique shops), and turn onto Calle del Call, at the heart of what used to be the medieval city’s Jewish quarter. Finally, turn left onto Calle Sant Honorat, adjacent to the Generalitat (Catalonia’s government HQ), and—bingo!—you’ve found Gracia Arts Project.

Founded just two years ago, the G.A.P. is a small, friendly gallery showcasing fresh, vibrant works by an energetic, polyglot collective of Barcelona-based artists and designers. Again, if you attend on an opening night, you can snag another free glass of cava.

We’d better get out of here before it gets crowded – and it does get crowded.

La Pedrera
Passeig de Gràcia

From G.A.P., it’s just a short walk to Via Laietana to catch the Metro (Line 4 – Yellow line) two stops to Passeig de Gràcia and over to Gaudì’s famous apartment building, La Pedrera.

Avoid the line for basic tours of the apartment building and head directly through the large ironwork gates on the corner, and up the beautifully decorated stairway (pictured at left) to the free exhibition space. Here, you can typically catch an expertly curated retrospective by an overlooked European artist, circa the 1920s or 30s.

No free drinks here today, but free exhibition notes in English abound. Make sure you look around at the details in Gaudì’s molded ceilings and columns.

Ready? Time to go. The exhibition closes at 8 PM here. Last stop…

MiTO
Calle Rosellò, 193, 08036

Finally, we’re off to MiTO, a gallery just one block up and four blocks over from Gaudì’s apartment, in the heart of Eixample.

Time it right and arrive by 8:20 PM to catch another fun opening.  The place is usually packed with a good mix of artists, buyers, collectors, curators and critics, and two very welcoming hosts, Joaquim and Alfredo, who like to serve up free Piper Heidsieck French champagne and snacks.

The work here at MiTO is cutting edge. Work is created by known international artists from cities like New York, London, Paris, Berlin, Madrid, and Valencia (to name a few).

Also at MiTO, help yourself to a few free catalogues of previous shows. I recommend Brian Dettmer’s The Cemetery of Forgotten Books, a beautifully crafted “look-book” filled with some incredible stuff.  They are all neatly stacked on shelves near the glass entrance door.

What did you think?

Did you enjoy the tour? Four very different art spaces, two centuries of art, and six centuries of architecture (not to mention free cava and champagne) in two hours before dinner, and all for free!  Nice way to work up an appetite, don’t you think? Let us know in the comment section below.

About the author: Born next door to an infamous London prison, Bill Sinclair has been on the run ever since. He now resides in Barcelona where he works as a writer, translator and independent visitor guide.

Popularity: 7% [?]

Who can resist French art books? Photos by Theadora Brack.

By Théadora Brack in Paris—

Oops, I did it again.

I attended an exposition’s “vernissage” (literally, the “varnishing”—how the French refer to a preview or opening of an art show), and became smitten with the show and its fine-looking catalog. Obsession activated. Hit hard, and a post card just wouldn’t do.

But, how can I get an art catalogue on the cheap? Walk this way!

1. Check out that rack of glossies!

Most museum shops sell “les albums de l’exposition” (guides, magazines, and portfolios). Published by Beaux Arts Magazine, Connaissance des Arts, Le Figaro, or the museum itself, these slim gems are usually prominently displayed, lightweight and affordable, costing just €2 to €10. Chockfull of visuals with punch, they’ll satisfy your head, pocketbook and suitcase. Translated versions are often available, too.

Books on sale!

2. Crack Da Chintzy code

La Boutique du Musée du Louvre not only carries current and back issues of “albums de l’exposition” (see above), but also discounts catalogs from its previous expositions by up to 60% off their original cost!

Other museums like the Centre Pompidou, Musée Carnavalet, and The Palais de Tokyo also slash art catalogue prices throughout the year. Recently at the Musée Galliera (museum of fashion), I purchased the Madame Carven catalogue for just €12, marked down from €30. Memorize one of my favorite French words, “soldes” (“on sale”), and you too will start spotting bargains everywhere. (As Anaïs Nin wrote, “We don’t see things as they are. We see things as we are.”)

3. Ch-ching at Fuh-nack!

Even my French friends were surprised to learn that Fnac (pronounced “fuh-nack”), the largest French entertainment retail chain, discounts its inventory of books. This includes the latest catalogues from current blockbuster shows, like Le Grande Monde d’Andy Warhol at the Grand Palais, Kadinsky at the Centre Pompidou, the David LaChapelle Retrospective at the Musée de la Monnaie, and Valadon et Utrillo at La Pinacothèque!

Fnac is a bustling combination of Barnes & Noble, Best Buy, Staples, and Ticketmaster. With everything from laptops and DVDs to French comic books and concert tickets, it’s one-stop shopping. You can also pick up museum admission tickets.

4. Flâneur-tastique! That’s how we stroll.

I’ve been known to spend entire days in the aisles of Mona Lisait Librairies. Although this funky bookstore chain that specializes in new and used art books has shops scattered all over Paris, its Marais location at 17bis rue Pavée (Metro: St Paul) is closest to my heart. Its creaky wooden floorboards, uneven brick flooring, tinny classical music, helpful staff, and free gift-wrapping all add up to real atmosphere.

Another favorite is at Place Joachim du Bellay, not far from the Centre Pompidou. Each of the seven locations has its own charm, and definitely worth a visit. (By the way, “Mona lisait” means “Mona was reading.”)

The "Librarie du Passage."

For another take on the arts, go meet the artists or at least their wax replicas at the Musée Grévin (Paris Wax Museum). Then visit the Librairie du Passage just a few feet away at 39 and 48 Passage Jouffroy (near Grand Boulevard–pictured above). Open since 1846, it’s in one of Paris’ classic 19th-century shopping arcades. Rumor has it that Victor Hugo, a renowned bargain hound, got his Cheapo on at this very shop. 

6. Mosey on to Glory

Here I weep. At La librairie de l’Avenue in the middle of Clignancourt Flea Market (Métros: Garibaldi or Porte de Clignancourt), the angels sing on high from a little CD player located just below the cashier’s desk. The sweet smell of coffee and frankincense tickles the nose.

This large but still intimate bookshop is well stocked with new and used art books, catalogues, vintage prints and antique magazines. Deciding exactly where to start my quest is the only glitch I encounter here as I make my way though the narrow labyrinth of floor to ceiling bookshelves, stocked with discounted books that have been meticulously organized by category, author or genre.

7. Don’t forget to look in the ‘hood

Neighborhood bookstores (”librairies”) all over the city occasionally stock and discount catalogues from current and past expositions. The handsome books are usually displayed in the windows.

How to find out about current art expositions in Paris

Pariscope: Invest 40 cents in a copy of Pariscope, available at any newsstand or kiosk. The pocket-sized weekly listings magazine covers the week’s happenings from theatre, cinema and arts, to music and restaurants. It hits the stands on Wednesdays.

An important note on pronunciation:

You risk raising a few bemused eyebrows if you ask for directions to an “exhibition.” “Exhibitions” (with an “h”) are peep shows—which is fine, if that’s the sort of display you’re after. However, if you’re looking for art, give that word a “p”–“exposition”!

Tell us. Do you have a favorite bookstore in Paris? Tell us below.

About the author and photographer: Theadora Brack is a writer working in Paris. Her fiction has appeared in more than 30 literary publications, including 3AM International, The Smoking Poet, Beloit Fiction Journal, Mid-American Review, and the Haight-Ashbury Literary Journal.

Popularity: 9% [?]

Photograph by Baby Skinz

Just in time for the spring strike season, Paris is celebrating the work of one of the most notorious revolutionaries in modern history, Ernesto “Che” Guevara. You’ve already seen the t-shirts, watched The Motorcycle Diaries and probably seen a likeness of the revolutionary’s face too many times to count.

Few, however, have viewed the photographic oeuvre of Ernesto Guevara. Marking the anniversary of Guevara’s controversial death is a Paris exhibit devoted to his photography. Organized by Guevara’s oldest son Camilo, the work chronicles his life as a photographer and revolutionary, and includes work from the 1955 Pan-American games in Mexico to a self-portrait taken shortly before El Che’s death.

“Le Che photographe” will show at the Barrio Latino, 46 rue du Faubourg Saint-Antoine, until May 7.

Popularity: 6% [?]