Rome Tip: Cheap eats survival guide

Friday, May 8th, 2009
One of the best gelato cafes in town, on Via dei Serpenti.

One of the best gelato cafes in town, on Via dei Serpenti.

By Sav D’Souza in Rome—

Don’t want to get trampled by meal costs when in Rome? Read on for my tried, true, and tested cheap eat survival tips.

1) Watch out for package deals.

Stay away from what I call the “slashers”: Anything that touts itself as an all-inclusive ”Bar/Restaurant”  or has a menu decreeing that it offers pizza/gelato/pasta.

It’s also best to steer clear of any restaurant that boasts an all-singing/all-dancing agenda. Surcharges here are the norm and food is pretty lackluster.

Lets face it.  If you’re in Italy, you’ve come to experience the good food that the country is renowned for, not some sub-standard chain-like grub where posted food photos aren’t even prepared in a kitchen (many, believe it or not, are microwaved!) Many bar/restaurant places offer only average food and can be quite pricey.

So, here’s the deal: Always look for a “ristorante” or “trattoria.” Likewise, head to a real gelateria for ice cream.  You can sing and dance while you’re there.

2) Be smart about prices. Ask ahead for “house specials.”

Restaurants often tempt diners with “house specialties”… that are often posted on placards without prices. If your dish isn’t on the menu, and you don’t ask about price before ordering, you risk ending up with indigestion when the bill arrives. Also, “market price,” (common for fish and seafood dishes) can mean anything, expensive or cheap, so ask ahead. 

This doesn’t only apply to upscale restaurants. Some unscrupulous vendors will charge a pretty piece for the simplest of snacks, like a sandwich and a cola. Others charge a hugely inflated price for bottled water with your meal. 

Antica Boheme, on Via Napoli, is an example of a good Trattoria.

Antica Boheme, on Via Napoli, is a good Trattoria.

3) Be specific about food quantities.

In Rome, you have to be a bit vigilant and assertive when ordering food by the quantity. For example, in many pizzerias, your slice is cut to order. You may only want a small slice, but some vendors (if they recognize you as a tourist) will try to cut off a large slice of pie (which will cost a heavier slice of your budget).

Italians are direct, so speak up if you only want un piccolo.

4) Beware of extras.

In some restaurants (and most with fixed-price menus), you will get charged for a basket of bread. To add insult to injury, the bread might also be stale. Some establishments charge for water, or add on a cost for additional dinner guests or alcohol. Know what you’re paying for ahead of time. And if you don’t care for bread, send it back!

5) Take it away.

To-go prices in Rome are much cheaper than sit-down prices. Sure, sipping a cappuccino while hanging out in a lovely outdoor café is romantic and chic, but it will typically cost three times more than if you order your espresso to go or drink it standing at the bar (as most locals do).

Share your dining tips!

Do you have any tips for saving money on food in Rome? Let us know below!

About the author: Sav D’Souza is a freelance journalist currently based in Rome. He has worked as a journalist in Hawaii, Prague, and London and contributed features to the Guardian, Daily Telegraph, SA Sports Illustrated, Prague Post and CNBC Europe. He is a demon pool player, enjoys a round of golf, playing poker, and the occasional gin and tonic.

Popularity: 15% [?]

Greece: Nafplio Gelato

Tuesday, March 27th, 2007

mmm, gelato
Photograph by Kaymaria Daskarolis

When in Nafplio—about two and a half hours from Athens by bus—do as the Italians do. Yes, Nafplio is in Greece, but given the heavy Venetian influence, consider functioning like an Italian and getting yourself some gelato.

Antica Gelateria di Roma (Farmakopoulon 3 and Komninou, tel: +30-27520-23520), a traditional Italian ice cream shop, is open every day of the week from 8:30 a.m. until 1:30 a.m. or 2 a.m., keeping with Greek tradition of closing whenever the shop’s proprietors decide to shut the doors. On Fridays and Saturdays, it is open until around 3 a.m. The owners, Italian transplants to Greece, speak Greek, Italian, and English, and offer yummy ice cream and a welcoming atmosphere.

Our favorite flavors here are coconut, caramel, hazelnut, and chocolate. The coconut ice cream is refreshing and palate-cleansing. Caramel is mouth-watering, smooth, and creamy. Hazelnut is like cold Nutella, but with a slightly less intense flavor. Bitter chocolate is not quite as bitter as we would have liked, but it’s still a delight for chocoholics. The chocolate with grappa is rich and flavorful. A small cup of this culinary bliss costs only €1.50. We recommend the slightly larger cup, which will set you back €3.50.

Popularity: 4% [?]

Vienna Ice Cream Season, Here We Come

Tuesday, March 6th, 2007

the sign that makes Viennese happy
photograph by Elen Farkas

This must be the warmest winter season Austria has ever experienced. Ski resorts announced a slow drop of attendees and a few ski manufacturers have gone bankrupt due to a sluggish sale of their equipment. Ski producer Atomic was forced to fire one sixth of its workforce in February.

In the face of fears about global warming, there’s one sector here in Vienna pleased with the mild weather and the early coming of spring: ice cream salons. That’s right. Vienna’s Gelaterias are gearing up for spring. Zanoni & Zanoni at 7 Lugeck in the First District might be open all-year round, but the rest of ice cream salons in almost every corner will follow in the coming days.

The weather was fine yesterday and will remain nice for the rest of the week. A mild temperature of 13 to 17 Celsius (55 to 63 Fahrenheit) is just right for an indulgence in the form of three scoops of gelato. That’s about €3 with a cone.

Popularity: 4% [?]