Friday, March 12th, 2010
 A bridge on the harbor in Hamburg. Photo by Audrey Sykes.
By Audrey Sykes—
Hamburg, Germany’s great northern maritime city, deserves at least a weekend for exploration. From the moving World War II monuments to a bustling fish market, here’s a rundown on how to spend a cheap but worthwhile weekend in Hamburg.
Friday AM: Boats and beaches of the Elbe River
Cheap boat rides can be found along the Elbe River areas of Altona, Elbstrasse, and Landungsbrücken. They cost as much as a bus ride (about €1.60) and stop at many ideal places for eating, drinking, and sunning on the sandy beaches around the Elbe River. The Alster lake area is another option for organized boat tours.
Friday PM: Watching the St. Pauli Football Team
Snag tickets to one of the most raw, gritty, and hardcore soccer teams in Europe, the St. Pauli Football Team. St. Pauli has it all: a loyal fan base who love to party, sponsors like Hamburg’s signature Astra beer, and a skull-and-crossbones logo. It’s the “Harley Davidson” of European football.
Tickets range from €7-50. Check here for more information. The stadium is located near Feldstrasse, an area rich in World War II monuments, vintage shops, and a Saturday yard sale market.
Saturday AM: Walking through Sternschanze
Stroll along the hip and bohemian Sternschanze neighborhood for a taste of Hamburg’s café terrace vibe and culture. Streets are lined with interesting boutiques, cheap eats, and bargain bars with a classic décor. A large park, the Planten un Blomen, is nearby – grab an ice cream and do some people-watching in the sun.
Saturday PM: Partying on Reeperbahn
Spend a night out on the Reeperbahn – Hamburg’s main party strip. See the blend of sailor roughness mix with trendy locals at the bars, music venues, clubs, and wurst stands. Beatle-maniacs should try out the nightlife around Grosse Freiheit, the street where the four “mop tops” made their European debut on stage and at parties.
Sunday AM: Stroll through the fish market
A Sunday morning in Hamburg is incomplete without a trip to the lively and exciting Fischmarkt. Located directly on the harbor from Reeperbahn S-bahn station, stroll around the dozens of seafood and produce stands. The market is action-packed with amusing characters and partygoers still out from Saturday night. Stop by anytime between 5 AM to noon.
Sunday PM: Historic Hamburg and the harbor
Spend the rest of Sunday walking along the Elbe River and surrounding harbor. Old harbor vessels permanently dock along the walkway as museums and cafés, and the surrounding area is a historic part of Hamburg undamaged from World War II.
Popularity: 2% [?]
Posted in Hamburg, Local Objects, Neighborhood, Nightlife, Tourist Objects, Trip Planning, tips | No Comments »
Wednesday, March 10th, 2010
 The famous Holocaust Memorial in Berlin. Photo by dalbera.
By Susan Buzzelli—
Between World War II and the Cold War, Berlin has a lot to remember. No wonder dozens of memorials and monuments grace the city. You could spend days tracking down every one of these free-to-see reminders dedicated to bygone events. (The city’s official list of “Denkmäler,” which include buildings, cemeteries, and other locations of historic note, is 941 pages long!)
Here’s a guide to our favorite memorials, including those that are on the well-beaten tourist path and those that are all-too-often overlooked by visitors.
1. Behren Strasse (U/S-bahn: Reichstag or Potsdamer Platz) is the wide avenue that runs alongside the Tiergarten park and connects Unter den Linden to Potsdamer Platz. Behrn Strasse is home to the U.S. Embassy, as well as two World War II monuments.
On the beaten path…
The Memorial to the Murdered Jews of Europe (Ebert Str. & Behren Str.), which is commonly known as the Holocaust Memorial, is a maze of steel gray “stele”, tomb-like slabs, that covers an entire block. Don’t forget to visit the subterranean documentation center for gripping, sobering exhibits about the victims of the Holocaust.
Off the beaten path…
Standing on the edge of the Tiergarten Park (on Ebert Str., between Behren Str. & Hannah-Arendt Str.), the Memorial for Gays Persecuted by Nazis is only a short stroll away from the Holocaust Memorial. Peek through the small “window” on the side of the 13-foot-tall concrete block to see a black and white film that depicts two men kissing. “A simple kiss could cause trouble,” reads the accompanying plaque.
2. Grosse Hamburger Strasse is a long, elegant avenue steps from Hackescher Markt. The street was once a center of Jewish life. It hosted one of the earliest Jewish cemeteries, as well as a home for seniors (marked with a plaque) and a school for boys (now the heavily-fortified Jüdische Oberschule, a school for children of all faiths). Today, the entire street is an open-air memorial to the Mitte’s once-vibrant Jewish community.
On the beaten path…
Will Lambert designed a bronze statue dedicated to the Jewish victims of fascism in 1957. Standing on the site of the long-destroyed Jewish cemetery, on the spot were Jews were deported to concentration camps, the somber memorial depicts a cluster of women and children awaiting their tragic fates.
Off the beaten path…
Installed in 1990 by the French artist Christian Boltanski, the Missing House (once at 15/16 Grosse Hamburger Str.) pays poignant tribute to one of the city’s many voids—in this case, a house that was never rebuilt after its 1945 destruction by Allied bombs. Twelve black-and-white plaques bearing the names, birth and death dates, and occupation of the building’s final residents adorn the facing walls of the two neighboring buildings. It’s a subtle, easy-to-miss tribute.
Continue north on Grosse Hamburger Strasse to reach the quiet, residential square of Koppenplatz. Standing on the northern side is a bronze statue of a table and two chairs, one of which is tipped over onto its back. The Memorial to the Deserted Room, by Karl Biedermann, pays tribute to the many Jews who were forced from their homes. It was installed in 1991.
3. Treptower Park (S-bahn: Treptower Park or Plänterwald) is an expansive stretch of green that runs alongside the Spree river in eastern Berlin. Big with picnickers, dog-walkers, and even boaters, the park is lined with gorgeous “Jugendstil” mansions and apartment buildings that reflect its history as a well-to-do district. It bears two intriguing traces of East Berlin architecture.
On the beaten path…
Occupying a massive swath of green, the gargantuan Soviet Memorial was built by the Soviet Union shortly after World War II to honor the Soviet soldiers who died in the battle for Berlin (1945-1949). Massive marble memorial plaques are overshadowed by the memorial’s focal point–a statue of a Soviet soldier, cradling a German child in his arms.
Off the beaten path…
Schlesischer Busch, a small, scrubby park north of Treptower Park, on the Treptow-Kreuzberg border (Puschkinallee), is home to a former Wachturm (watchtower) that’s been transformed into a small art gallery. Other than the concrete, graffiti-marred tower, there are no longer any traces here of the Berlin Wall that divided the city.
Tell us: Have you been to any of these memorials? Do you have another favorite monument or memorial that you’d like to add to our list? Tell us about it in the comments section.
Popularity: 2% [?]
Posted in Berlin, Exhibitions, Germany, Museums, walking | No Comments »
Wednesday, February 10th, 2010
 Ishin Sushi Restaurant in Berlin. Photo by Claudius Prößer.
By Susan Buzzelli—
Let’s face it. A Cheapo in Berlin can only eat so many fat- and calorie-laden Döner Kebabs and Currywursts before feeling weighed down. Luckily, Berlin is rife with cheap, healthy, and delicious Asian food joints where budget hunters can fill their bellies for far less than €10.
Here is the lowdown on our favorite Asian eateries in Berlin:
Japanese: Ishin
Mittel Str. 24 (one outlet of a city-wide mini-chain)
Packed to the gills at lunchtime, Ishin offers tasty and authentic Japanese food at shockingly reasonable prices. Though it is only steps from the touristy Friedrich Strasse-Unter den Linden corridor, it is beloved by locals and rarely discovered by tourists.
Dominated by long black tables that you share with other diners, the bright, no-frills space feels like a bustling cafeteria. We love the inexpensive and consistently fresh sushi, but most diners go for the Don, warm rice topped with diverse toppings, such as steamed salmon. Gyoza (fried dumplings) are also popular.
Stop by for dinner or on the weekend, when it’s slightly less jam-packed, to score happy hour prices on sushi (the super filling 18-piece salmon menu is €2 off, making it €8) and other dishes.
Cheapo bonus: The brisk servers drop off a free mug of green tea at your table, which you can re-fill yourself at the sushi counter.
Vietnamese: Manngo and Orchideen Garten
Berlin is particularly well stocked with Vietnamese eateries, but most of these restaurants are surprisingly pricey. Our favorite budget-friendly spot is the tiny Manngo (Mulack Str. 29; off Alte Schönhauser Strasse), but if you really want an insider’s steal, head to the teensy Orchideen Garten (Anklamer Str. 31).
Run with efficiency and friendliness by an extended family, this little neighborhood spot serves up one of the most delicious Phos in town. Prepared to order, the huge bowls of steaming noodle soup, topped with your choice of chicken, tofu, or beef, is garnished with chili and a lemon wedge so that you can adjust the flavor.
We love this place (which happens to be around the corner from this blogger’s Berlin apartment) so much that we’re hesitant to share the address. But the soup, as well as stir fries and barbecued ribs are so good, we can’t keep it to ourselves. Look out for specials.
Since there are only three tables inside, go during off hours to ensure a seat. Alternatively, take a seat at the restaurant on the corner. Owned by the same hard-working family behind the Garten, Lemongrass (Anklamer Str. 38) serves up Thai dishes and sushi in addition to Vietnamese classics.
Korean: Yam Yam
Alte Schönhauser Str. 4
Korean food is the newest addition to Berlin’s trend-obsessed food scene. The cheapest (and, we think, the best) spot opened in 2009 on Mitte’s main shopping drag, Alte Schönhauser Strasse. Most dishes on the menu at the minimalistic Yam Yam are less than €7—and everything is authentic.
Classic dishes like bulgogi and steamed dumplings integrate organic meat and veggies. And every entrée comes with your choice of “banchan” (side dishes). When in doubt, go for the kimchi (spicy, garlicky, fermented cabbage). Our favorite dish is the freshly steamed dumplings, served piping hot in a steamer basket. If you go for a chili-spiked dish, be sure to order our favorite drink, house-made lemonade. It’s a cooling antidote to the heat.
Pan-Asian: Asian Deli
Lychener Str. 28
We love Asian Deli, despite its tacky yellow and red interior and tiny bamboo bench seats. The reason? Low prices and huge portions, of course. Choose among Vietnamese, Indonesian, Malay, and Thai dishes.
There isn’t much that’s authentic here, but the Pad Thai is one of the most decent in a town. Show up at lunch, when you can chose between two different soup-entrée combinations for €5.50.
Popularity: 3% [?]
Posted in Berlin, Cheapo night out, Food, Germany, tips | 1 Comment »
Wednesday, February 3rd, 2010
 The town of Lübeck, not far from Hamburg. Photo by lokenrc.
By Nicky Gardner and Susanne Kries—
It has become fashionable for minor airports across Europe to seek prominence through association with major cities that are often many miles away. And airlines that serve these minor airports, largely because of their cheaper landing fees, are happy to join in the game.
Exploring Allgäu from “Munich West”
Canny Cheapos know that Germany’s Frankfurt Hahn airport is nowhere near Frankfurt. Likewise, one discount airline has now decided that the name “Memmingen Allgäu” airport just does not have the necessary appeal, so styles the airport “Munich West”—slightly to the surprise of folk locally who are all too well aware that their regional airport is not near Munich at all.
The cachet of a big city name has become important. So much so that it obscures the fact that the communities which lie on the very doorstep of those airports are interesting destinations in themselves. The name “Munich West” is misleading, and hides the fact that the Allgäu region, so close to the airport, is a stunning area of Germany well worth visiting.
Discovering lesser known gems in Germany, Italy, and beyond
 Girona Airport. Photo: Lorentey
But as airlines and airports create their own mysterious cartographic realities, sensible travellers exploit these secondary airports to visit spots that really are well served by them.
If you fly to what Wizz Air or Ryanair euphemistically call “Hamburg-Lübeck” airport, you will land a long way from Hamburg but happily very close to Lübeck. The medieval center of one of northern Germany’s most historic and engaging towns is just an eight minute train ride away from the airport (which has its own rail station).
And the same argument holds for other secondary airports across Europe. If you are bound for Barcelona, don’t be seduced by the publicity that suggests that Barcelona Girona Airport is close to Barcelona. It is not! But Girona, just twenty minutes away on the bus, is really worth a visit in its own right. It boasts a particularly well preserved medieval Jewish quarter.
Few of those who jet into Orio al Serio airport near Bergamo, Italy have any intention of visiting Bergamo, just a ten minute bus ride from the airport. No, the airlines market the airport for its rather remote proximity to Milan. Yet Bergamo is an absolute gem, and for first-time visitors to Italy an infinitely better introduction to the country than Milan.
Exploit the system
So does anyone really fly to Frankfurt-Hahn on purpose? Well, they should. The out-of-the-way airport, utterly inconvenient for Frankfurt, is just ten miles east of the most beautiful stretch of Germany’s Moselle Valley.
For those in the know, the wayward cartographic fictions of Europe’s discount airlines throw up a few unusual travel opportunities.
Susanne and Nicky run a Berlin-based editorial bureau that supplies text and images to media across Europe. Together they edit hidden europe magazine. You can read more of their writing in their regular e-brief and in the Notes section on their website.
Popularity: 4% [?]
Posted in Airlines, Airports, Barcelona, Budget Air Travel, Europe, Germany, Italy, Milan, Practical Info, Ryanair, Spain, Trip Planning, hidden europe, plane, tips | No Comments »
Thursday, January 21st, 2010
 Don't get stranded at Tegel. Photo by NK Eide.
By Susan Buzzelli—
Europe is in the midst of a long, cold, and icy winter. With temperatures hovering at or well below 32 degrees, ice- and snow-encrusted Berlin is no exception. Since mid-December, canceled flights out of Berlin’s two airports, Tegel and Schönefeld (as well as layover airports in Frankfurt, Munich, and Heathrow) have been a regular event.
Cheapos traveling from the German capital (or beyond) when snowy conditions prevail should take a few steps to prepare for the absolute worst: cancelled flights and missed connections. The following precautionary measures will make an unplanned night or two in Berlin or your layover city more cost (and time) efficient.
1. Carry on your essentials
It is all too often the case that travelers aren’t allowed to re-claim their bags once they’ve checked them, even if their flight is cancelled or they’re stranded in a layover airport. As a result, a well-packed carry-on is key to avoiding the cancellation blues.
Pack a change of underwear and a clean T-shirt, as well as three-ounce-or-less containers of soap, toothpaste, deodorant, and/or whatever you can’t live without for a night (or two). If you have a cell phone or a laptop, bring along the energy cord and converter plug. If you’re easily bored, pack reading material or a deck of cards.
2. Check your flight
If it’s snowing or the weather forecast calls for snow on your departure date, check the status of your flight online before heading to the airport. If flights out of your airport and/or your layover airport are canceled, call the airline to find out if your flight will make it.
3. Consider Re-booking
If airline officials suspect that your flight (or flights) will be canceled, they may encourage you to book a seat on a flight the leaves in a day or two, or after weather conditions have improved. If you have a flexible schedule and enough euros to tide you over for an extra day or two, you shouldn’t hesitate to extend your trip. Waiting around in a crowded airport is a lot less fun than roaming Berlin’s warm and cozy museums.
4. Avoid the airport
If you find out that your flight is cancelled before getting to the airport, don’t waste time or money on transportation to the airport. Since both Tegel and Schönefeld are too small to handle a crowd, you’d probably be turned away or stuck waiting in a confusing, slow-moving re-booking line. Your best bet is to find the nearest phone or computer and work the airline’s customer service line.
5. Book a room with flexible terms
If it is likely that your flight will be canceled, reserve a room at a hostel or hotel that doesn’t require a credit card hold or advanced payment. If you end up making the flight, you can always cancel the room before boarding. Ensuring that you have a place to stay is especially important if you’re flying through Tegel; sleeping in the airport isn’t an ideal option. (Sometimes guards kick travelers out after the last flight of the evening has arrived; sometimes they herd everyone to Terminal D.)
6. Know your rights
Luckily, travelers passing through the European Union are entitled to reimbursements for food, transport, or accommodation if their flight is canceled (some restrictions apply). Treat yourself to a nice hotel and a big meal if the airline is footing the bill!
7. Bring along a snack
Before heading to the airport, where food is overpriced and not very good, stock up on granola bars, nuts, or other lightweight snacks at a Cheapo grocery store like Lidl or Aldi. If you get stuck overnight, at least you’ll have something to nibble on.
Popularity: 4% [?]
Posted in Airlines, Airports, Berlin, Germany, Travel Smarts, tips | No Comments »
Wednesday, December 30th, 2009
 Kyungwoo Chun at the DNA gallery on Auguststrasse. Photo: Garzon
By Susan Buzzelli–
You can’t trip in Berlin without running into an art gallery stocked with eye-catching works. Every kind of “Kunstler” from established masters to “outsider” (untrained, un-establishment) artists are represented in the spaces littering the city. Most spots in town, however, display drawings, paintings, sculptures, video installations, and conceptual pieces by up-and-comers or neophytes fresh out of the world’s art schools.
While a handful of the more established galleries (for example C/O Berlin, Sammlung Boros, and Sammlung Hoffmann) charge admission for the privilege of perusing their high-profile exhibitions, the vast majority of galleries are free to visit. As can be expected, some prestigious spots are as pretentious as they come, but most are casual affairs that you can pop in and out of on a whim, without fretting about your wardrobe or your cheapo bank account.
Touring the galleries of Mitte
Most (but certainly not all) of the city’s art galleries—from the upscale to the funky–roost in the central district of Mitte. After the fall of the Berlin Wall in 1989, gallery-owners based in Charlottenburg, the tony district in the western part of town that once dominated the city’s art scene, decamped to the “newer,” edgier side of the city to take advantage of its avant garde spaces, low rents, and international buzz factor.
Start a tour of the district’s gallery scene at the eastern end of Auguststrasse. Since many of the galleries lined up on this quiet street are window-lined, you can check out the artwork on display inside as you stroll past. At the western end of August Strasse, you’ll hit heavily-touristed Oranienburger Strasse, where the famous squatters/art commune (which has occupied a bombed-out department store since the fall of the wall) hovers above the corner of Chausse Strasse. You can explore the graffitied warren of studios and exhibition rooms comprising Kunsthaus Tacheles for free.
To catch a few more galleries, head back east along Linienstrasse, an elegant, café- and boutique-lined street that runs parallel to Auguststrasse. Be sure to admire the costumes on display in Wunderkind Vintage, a gorgeous space on the corner of Tucholskystrasse that is best described as a “gallery to fashion.” Turn right onto Tucholsky, where you’ll find a few more galleries. At Oranienburger Strasse, you can hop on a tram to Rosenthaler Platz.
From this bustling square, head east along gritty Torstrasse for a couple of blocks to check out the handful of innovative galleries and designer boutiques nestled on the southern side of the street. Double back to Rosenthaler Platz and walk north on Brunnenstrasse. (If you need a coffee break first, stop at one of the cafes on Weinbergsweg.) On the stretch of the wide street between Invalidenstrasse and Bernauer Strasse, you’ll find a smattering of youthful and unpretentious galleries. End your tour at the Bernauer Strasse U-bahn station.
Look for openings
As you explore the gallery scene, look out for fliers advertising upcoming openings. Catching a “vernissage” means the opportunity to mix and mingle with Berlin’s multicultural art scenesters, as well as score a free beer or wine.
For a more complete overview of the city’s gallery-filled hoods, download a copy of Kunstmagazin Berlin and check out their map and corresponding list of galleries.
Popularity: 5% [?]
Posted in Art, Berlin, Exhibitions, Germany, Neighborhood, walking | No Comments »
Tuesday, December 15th, 2009
 Christmas magic at Gendarmenmarkt. Photo by slaqua.
By Susan Buzzelli—
Berlin is downright chilly (and even a little bleak) in winter. But, as the Germans love to say, there’s no such thing as bad weather; it’s inappropriate clothing that makes you cold. As long as you bundle up in the thickest of coats, socks, soles, gloves, hats, and boots, the chill won’t slow you down.
Keeping warm the glühwein way
For guaranteed warmth, employ our favorite weapon against the cold: Glühwein.
Sold in festive mugs at the city’s dozens of Christmas markets, this spiced, hot wine warms you from the inside out. It costs about €5, including a deposit for the mug. Trust us, however: This giddiness-inducing beverage is worth the splurge. It’s like holiday spirit in a glass.
Our favorite Christmas markets in Berlin
Germany’s capital isn’t as famous as Dresden, Munich, and the Ore Mountains for its annual Christmas markets (roughly late November–Dec. 31; opening times vary), but it doesn’t hurt to check out one or two of the more than 20 markets that spring up in the city every year.
Because most markets are free (or inexpensive) to enter, they’re a Cheapo-friendly way to spend the evening. Snacks, which include sausage roasted over a wood grill, fresh gingerbread, potato pancakes, roasted chestnuts, and much more, won’t break the bank, either. If you’re in the market for gifts, you can often score handcrafted items—from knit scarves and mittens to handmade jewelry—for reasonable prices.
In addition to our three favorite markets, detailed below, check out the Berlin tourist office’s complete list of the city’s 22 markets.
Très Elegant Market: Gendarmenmarkt
The classiest of Berlin’s Christmas markets occupies Gendarmenmarkt (S- and U-bahn: Friedrich Strasse, Brandenburger Tor, €1), an elegant square in Mitte, between Friedrich Strasse and Unter den Linden. Lined with neat rows of pitched white tents adorned with golden lights, the market features craftsmen who produce delicate wooden combs, birdcages, precious stone jewelry, and more on the spot.
 Sweets on offer at a Christmas market stall. Photo by tunnelarmr.
Kitschy Fun Market: Winterwelt am Potsdamer Platz
The expansive Winterwelt am Potsdamer Platz (S- and U-bahn: Potsdamer Platz) is stocked with red and white striped stands hawking the usual food and handicrafts. You can also take a twirl on a small iceskating rink (entry is free; ice skate rental is €2.50) or, if you reserve ahead, play a round of “Eisstockbahn,” a wintry version of bowling.
Illuminated with environmentally-friendly LED lights, this market is touristy but atmospheric. Don’t forget to pop into the Sony Center, which is decorated with some 41,000 icy blue lights.
Cozy Market: Lucia Weihnachtsmarkt in der Kulturbrauerei
Nestled in the expansive courtyard of a red brick beer brewery-turned-cultural complex in Prenzlauer Berg, the Lucia Weihnachtsmarkt in der Kulturbrauerei (U-bahn: Eberswalder Str.) is a quaint affair with a Finnish vibe. Look for Finnish Glühwein, honey, and textiles. If you happen to visit on a Sunday, wander over to Kollwitzplatz (Dec. 13 and 20) to check out its small, weekly market, which specializes in organic food and gifts.
Popularity: 5% [?]
Posted in Berlin, Festivals, Food, Germany, Local Objects, holidays | No Comments »
Monday, November 30th, 2009
 Inside the Pergamon Museum on Museum Insel. Photo by sunside.
By Susan Buzzelli—
Cheapos know that the best things in life are free, but sometimes a city’s best sights will cost you.
So that you know when it’s worth loosening those purse strings, here’s a guide to Berlin’s two most splurge-worthy museums complexes, the Museum Insel and the Kulturforum. And, of course, we’ll show you how to cut your costs.
Museum Insel: An art and architecture delight
A natural island nestled in the Spree, the Museum Insel (S-bahn: Hackescher Markt or Brandenburger Tor) consists of five museums housed in grandiose neoclassical buildings. You could save euros by simply strolling past the impressive exteriors, which feature columns, sculptures and double stone staircases, but it would be a shame to overlook the eight collections of artistic and archeological treasures located inside the Bode Museum, Pergamonmuseum (Pergamon Museum), Alte Nationalgalerie, and the Neues Museum.
 The Gemäldegalerie. Photo by stijn.
Get the most bang for your buck at the world-renowned Pergamon, which features the walls of Babylon and other priceless artifacts that German archeologists dug up in Turkey and the Middle East in the early 20th Century (when the “finders keepers” mentality ran amok).
The talk of Berlin, however, is the newly renovated Neues Museum. Minimalistic interiors designed by British architect David Chipperfield provide a backdrop for the city’s Egyptian and pre- and early history collections. Not to be missed: a magical bust of Nefertiti that gives Mona Lisa a run for her money.
Cheapo style: Many Museum Insel museums boast free admission on Thursday evenings, four hours before closing (unless the museum is hosting a special exhibit). Normal admission costs between €8-10. Go ahead and skip special exhibitions, which cost extra (usually about €3): they usually aren’t worth the money.
The Kulturforum: Major exhibits and priceless paintings
Nestled just west of Potsdamer Platz’s sky rises, the Kulturforum (S-bahn & U-bahn: Potsdamer Platz) is a cluster of museums, libraries, and performance centers built in the 1960s and still going strong.
The two highlights are the Neue Nationalgalerie, a boxy, glass-sheathed museum designed by Mies von der Rohe, and the adjoining Museums für Europäische Kunst (Museums of European Art), a trio of three museums under one low-slung roof.
The Neue Nationalgalerie
Not only is the Neue Nationalgalerie an icon of modernist architecture, but the permanent collection of modern artwork by Max Beckmann, Salvador Dali, and dozens of other angsty European artists is among the finest in Europe. It is the museum’s stellar special exhibits, however, that make it not-to-be-missed on our list despite the steep admission (€12). Skipping a visit to the Neue would be like passing on the MOMA in New York or the Centre Pompidou in Paris.
 The Neue Nationalgalerie. Photo by Carolina Mendonça.
Museums für Europäische Kunst
If you aren’t into the exhibit at the Neue, pop next door to the Museums für Europäische Kunst, its exterior a mélange of historic and contemporary architecture. Its three museums, the Gemäldegalerie (Painting Gallery of Old Masters), Kunstgewerbemuseum (Museum of Decorative Arts) and Kupferstichkabinett (Museum of Prints and Drawings) are often overlooked by tourists, but we think they’re well worth the price of admission.
With its amazing collection of European art—including works by Botticelli, Caravaggio, Goya, and Rubens—the Gemäldegalerie is especially worth the splurge. If you hate sharing museums with hordes of tourists, this is the place for you: as the city’s best kept secret, it’s rarely (if ever) crowded.
Cheapo style: Individual admission to the Kulturforum’s museums is usually about €8 (€4 with a student card). But for the same price, you can score a one-day ticket that covers the above-mentioned museums, as well as the Kunstbibliothek (Art Library) and the Musikinstrumenten-Museum (Music Instrument Museum). The pass doesn’t include admission to special exhibits. Like the Museum Insel museums, admission is usually free four hours before closing.
When the Neue has two special exhibits on tap, a combination ticket goes for €12. Most of the time, exhibits set up in the main, glass-lined hall because they’re small and easy to check out from the lobby. It’s the larger, basement-level exhibits that are (usually) worth the price.
For museum buffs: The three-day Museum Pass
Note: If you’re a major culture buff (and have the capacity to take in a lot of art and artifacts in 72 hours), you should spring for the three-day museum pass that covers all of the city’s government-run museums, which includes all of the above-mentioned museums and then some. It will set you back €19 (€8.50 for students), but it will end up saving you tons of money—as long as you do some major museum hopping. The pass, however, doesn’t include admission to special exhibits.
Popularity: 6% [?]
Posted in Art, Berlin, Exhibitions, Germany, Museums | 1 Comment »
Thursday, November 12th, 2009
 Wander around the Berlinale for free. Photo by Maharepa.
By Susan Buzzelli in Berlin—
Keep pouring the champagne (or, even better, the Sekt), because we’re in a celebratory mood. The festivities surrounding the 20th anniversary of the Berlin Wall’s fall were such a blast, that we’re already looking forward to the city’s next mega-event.
Though Germany’s capital no longer hosts the bacchanalian, techno-obsessed Love Parade, Berlin still reigns as Europe’s party central with its diverse and jam-packed events calendar. The best of the fests, listed below, are ideal for Cheapos because they’re free, inexpensive, or value-packed. So sharpen your elbows and get ready to join the crowds!
Internationale Grüne Woche (International Green Week)
January 15-24, 2010
Official website
We’re crazy about this food-centric fair, which is devoted to nutrition, agriculture and horticulture. The Green Week event fills the city’s massive, space-age exhibition hall with the moo of cows, the pungent scent of Swiss cheese, and the bouquet of German wine.
Regular admission is €12, but once you’re inside, you can stroll past food stands galore shelling out snacks from Germany and around the world. Free samples abound. Cheapos should show up after 2 PM, when tickets go for €7.
Internationale Filmfestspiele Berlin (Berlin International Film Festival)
February 11-21
Official website
Tickets to Berlin’s film festival, referred to as the “Berlinale”, aren’t cheap (they go for €8), but you don’t have to shell out anything to take part in this major cinematic event. Our favorite activity is milling around Potsdamer Platz, the epicenter of the festival, which draws thousands of film professionals and film lovers from around the world.
A must? Celeb-spotting (is that George Clooney?) at the red carpet leading into the Berlinale Palast (Am Marlene-Dietrich-Platz 1), the theater where the most anticipated films—from Hollywood and around the world—premiere. At the very least, be sure to grab a free program to read about the latest in international filmmaking.
 Carnival of Cultures. Photo: CpILL
Karneval der Kulturen (Carnival of Cultures)
May 21-24, 2010
Official website
As Germany’s most multicultural metropolis, Berlin celebrates its 450,000 international residents during the colorful, four-day “Carnival of Cultures” festival in Kreuzberg. A party atmosphere pervades the event’s highlight: an endless street parade of ethnic-themed floats.
But the multicultural festival, which includes a riot of bands, food stalls, and theme parties, is lots of fun, too. Celebrated since 1996, the festival is bigger and better every year.
Fête de la Musique
June 21, 2010
Official website
The “Fete de la Musique,” a one-day, music-making event, celebrates the summer solstice with a bang, a drum roll, and a techno beat. Live, open-air concerts—all of which are free–fill the city with music, from reggae to electronica. Expect to discover some new talent, because most of the musical acts are upstart bands and DJs doing their thing for the first time. In 2009, 700 bands and DJs performed on 83 stages; 150,000 showed up to watch. Now that’s what we call a party.
Silvester (New Year’s Eve)
December 31
When the clock strikes twelve, laser shows and fireworks displays shower the Brandenburg Gate with light. A major event since 1995, Berlin’s New Year’s Eve festivities have become the spectacle to see in Europe. Before the explosion of lights, dozens of bands entertain the throng of spectators gathered on the Strasse 17. Juni, a wide avenue that’s bookended by two of the city’s most iconic landmarks: the Brandenburg Gate and the angel-capped Siegesäule (Victory Column).
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Thursday, October 29th, 2009
 Walking along the East Side Gallery. Photo by Mark Turner.
By Susan Buzelli in Berlin–
With only a handful of sights to its name, the edgy Berlin district of Friedrichshain, which is infamous for its anti-capitalism protests, prolific graffiti artists, and rocking music venues, isn’t a jackpot in the sight-seeing department. But thanks to its free-to-see landmarks and a bevy of inexpensive and innovative eateries, this is a great day-time destination for Cheapos desperate to give their wallets some serious R and R.
Here are some great ways to spend a Cheapo-friendly afternoon in Friedrichshain.
Open-air Art: The East Side Gallery
From the Ostbahnhof S-bahn station, stroll alongside Friedrichshain’s best-known attraction: the free-of-charge East Side Gallery (Mühlen Str., between the Ostbahnhof train station and Warschauer Str.) Reputed to be the continent’s largest open-air gallery, it’s a great way to pay tribute to the 20th anniversary of the fall of the Berlin Wall.
The .8-mile-long stretch of Wall bordering the Spree river is a concrete canvas for some 100 graffiti-style artworks. The two most famous images: Birgit Kinder’s painting of a Trabant, the iconic East German car, bursting through the Wall and Dmitri Vrubel’s rendering of a passionate kiss between the Soviet Union’s Leonid Brezhnev and East Germany’s Erich Honecker. If you need a break, spread out on the recently revamped Spree river banks, tucked away just behind the Wall.
A Bridge with a View
 The Oberbaumbrucke. Photo by Stadtneurotiker.
Once you’ve reached the end of Mühlen Str., the historic, red brick Oberbaumbrücke bridge, which links Friedrichshain to Kreuzberg, is impossible to miss.
Originally built in the 18th century, the two-story structure with a 21st-century addition by Spanish architect Santiago Calatrava, offers sweeping views of eastern Berlin. Look east to see the shimmering silver Molecule Man sculpture rising from the river. Look west to spot the ubiquitous Fernsehturm (TV tower).
Music fans should check out the patterned brick-and-glass Universal Records building, where the company’s European headquarters is located, adjacent to the bridge.
Lunch in a shabby-chic hood
Continue north on Warschauer Strasse to reach the heart of the Boxhaganer Kiez, a shabby-chic hood between Boxhagener Strasse and Revaler Strasse. A gathering place for stylish students, wannabe musicians, and other low-earning Berliners, this colorful corner boasts plenty of eateries serving low-budget food with flair. The best spots serve portions so large that a party of two could fill their bellies for less than €10.
Organic burger joints and vegan eateries are the restaurants du jour in this trend-conscious foodie zone. Since you probably didn’t travel all the way to Berlin to sample diner-style cheeseburgers (or veggie burgers) and fries, you should skip places like Kreuzburger (Grünberger Str. 52-53), Green Burger (Grünberger Str. 38), and Burgeramt/Frühstucksclub (Krossener Str. 22).
 Vegan Pizza at Yoyo Foodworld. Photo: Milgrammer.
If you can’t resist the urge, head to the best of the bunch, Frittiersalon (Boxhagener Str. 104). Reminiscent of a 1950’s diner, the organic burgers served in this greasy spoon are big and tasty. Not to be missed are the house-made potato chips and the diverse, house-made sauces. Vegetarian Wurst is also on the menu.
Meatless meals
Vegans and the green-minded are well served well by another set of Friedrichshain faves that specialize in politically-responsible dishes. The popular Yoyo Foodworld (Gärtner Str. 27) is dedicated to providing strict vegans with dishes that are usually verboten from their diets: Käsespätzle (cheese-covered egg noodles), gyros, schnitzels, burgers, and even banana splits. And the price is right: a vegan hot chili cheeseburger with fries and a salad is €6.99.
A few blocks away, Vöner (Boxhagener Str. 56) draws the vegan masses with its P.C. version of the city’s most beloved meat-centric snack: the Döner kebab. The Imbisse (snack stand) also turns out a mean veggie burger and a meaty bio burger.
A Soviet-era Avenue: Karl Marx Allee
 Karl Marx Allee's Soviet facades. Photo by Mishkabear.
After lunching, wrap up your tour of Friedrichshain with a visit to the Stalinist-era Karl Marx Allee (at the northern end of Warschauer Str., between Alexanderplatz and Frankfurter Allee).
A showcase of monumental Communist architecture, including eight-story, “wedding cake” apartment buildings sheathed in creamy white tiles, the wide boulevard was built by the Soviets shortly after World War II to impress the west. In addition to hosting government-sanctioned marches, it also hosted a brutally-put down demonstration by workers on June 17, 1953.
After staring up at the 2,620-feet-high, neo-classical towers marking the Allee’s eastern end, meander west, past chipping, graffiti-covered facades, funky movie theaters, and retro store fronts, some of which still bear their funky 1950’s shop signs. The apartment buildings west of the Weberwiese U-bahn stop are the most impressive as they’ve been wonderfully restored to their Stalinist/neoclassical glory.
When you’ve had enough, rest your feet and grab a coffee at the historic Café Sybille (Karl Marx Allee 72), which includes an exhibit about the Berlin Wall. A hipper option across the street, Ehrenburg Café (Karl Marx Allee 103) is named after Ilya Ehrenburg, a Soviet-Jewish journalist.
About the author: A Pittsburgh native, Susan Buzzelli had stints in Dresden, Munich, and Hamburg before settling (possibly for good) in Europe’s most dynamic city: Berlin. Her comprehensive guidebook to Germany, Zeitguide Germany, will be published soon. Look for updates on her website, www.susanbuzzelli.com.
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