The famous Holocaust Memorial in Berlin. Photo by dalbera.

By Susan Buzzelli—

Between World War II and the Cold War, Berlin has a lot to remember. No wonder dozens of memorials and monuments grace the city. You could spend days tracking down every one of these free-to-see reminders dedicated to bygone events. (The city’s official list of “Denkmäler,” which include buildings, cemeteries, and other locations of historic note, is 941 pages long!)

Here’s a guide to our favorite memorials, including those that are on the well-beaten tourist path and those that are all-too-often overlooked by visitors.

1. Behren Strasse (U/S-bahn: Reichstag or Potsdamer Platz) is the wide avenue that runs alongside the Tiergarten park and connects Unter den Linden to Potsdamer Platz. Behrn Strasse is home to the U.S. Embassy, as well as two World War II monuments.

On the beaten path…

The Memorial to the Murdered Jews of Europe (Ebert Str. & Behren Str.), which is commonly known as the Holocaust Memorial, is a maze of steel gray “stele”, tomb-like slabs, that covers an entire block. Don’t forget to visit the subterranean documentation center for gripping, sobering exhibits about the victims of the Holocaust.

Off the beaten path…

Standing on the edge of the Tiergarten Park (on Ebert Str., between Behren Str. & Hannah-Arendt Str.), the Memorial for Gays Persecuted by Nazis is only a short stroll away from the Holocaust Memorial. Peek through the small “window” on the side of the 13-foot-tall concrete block to see a black and white film that depicts two men kissing. “A simple kiss could cause trouble,” reads the accompanying plaque.

2. Grosse Hamburger Strasse is a long, elegant avenue steps from Hackescher Markt. The street was once a center of Jewish life. It hosted one of the earliest Jewish cemeteries, as well as a home for seniors (marked with a plaque) and a school for boys (now the heavily-fortified Jüdische Oberschule, a school for children of all faiths). Today, the entire street is an open-air memorial to the Mitte’s once-vibrant Jewish community.

On the beaten path…

Will Lambert designed a bronze statue dedicated to the Jewish victims of fascism in 1957. Standing on the site of the long-destroyed Jewish cemetery, on the spot were Jews were deported to concentration camps, the somber memorial depicts a cluster of women and children awaiting their tragic fates.

Off the beaten path…

Installed in 1990 by the French artist Christian Boltanski, the Missing House (once at 15/16 Grosse Hamburger Str.) pays poignant tribute to one of the city’s many voids—in this case, a house that was never rebuilt after its 1945 destruction by Allied bombs. Twelve black-and-white plaques bearing the names, birth and death dates, and occupation of the building’s final residents adorn the facing walls of the two neighboring buildings. It’s a subtle, easy-to-miss tribute.

Continue north on Grosse Hamburger Strasse to reach the quiet, residential square of Koppenplatz. Standing on the northern side is a bronze statue of a table and two chairs, one of which is tipped over onto its back. The Memorial to the Deserted Room, by Karl Biedermann, pays tribute to the many Jews who were forced from their homes. It was installed in 1991.

3. Treptower Park (S-bahn: Treptower Park or Plänterwald) is an expansive stretch of green that runs alongside the Spree river in eastern Berlin. Big with picnickers, dog-walkers, and even boaters, the park is lined with gorgeous “Jugendstil” mansions and apartment buildings that reflect its history as a well-to-do district. It bears two intriguing traces of East Berlin architecture.

On the beaten path…

Occupying a massive swath of green, the gargantuan Soviet Memorial was built by the Soviet Union shortly after World War II to honor the Soviet soldiers who died in the battle for Berlin (1945-1949). Massive marble memorial plaques are overshadowed by the memorial’s focal point–a statue of a Soviet soldier, cradling a German child in his arms.

Off the beaten path…

Schlesischer Busch, a small, scrubby park north of Treptower Park, on the Treptow-Kreuzberg border (Puschkinallee), is home to a former Wachturm (watchtower) that’s been transformed into a small art gallery. Other than the concrete, graffiti-marred tower, there are no longer any traces here of the Berlin Wall that divided the city.

Tell us: Have you been to any of these memorials? Do you have another favorite monument or memorial that you’d like to add to our list? Tell us about it in the comments section.

Popularity: 2% [?]

Exploring the Piazza Navona. Photos by Samantha Collins.

By Samantha Collins in Rome—

Exploring the Piazza Navona in Rome’s historic center is like visiting London’s Covent Garden but with a warmer climate and with much older buildings. The Piazza Navona is where you can find street entertainers, mime artists, portrait painters, and street cafes set amongst the backdrop of baroque fountains and elegant period buildings. You are likely to find something going on at any time of the year, whether it is a concert, a political demonstration, or the famous Christmas toy market.

A Slice of Piazza History

Originally, Piazza Navona was home to horse racing and jousting and was centered around an oval track that was built in 86 AD. At this time it was known as the Stadium of Domitian and could accommodate up to 33,000 spectators.

In the 13th Century, Sant’ Agnese was executed here after she refused to denounce her Christian beliefs and marry a pagan. Legend says that as she was paraded naked through the piazza before her execution, with just her hair protecting her modesty.

Fontana dei Quattro Fiumi

Romans often flooded the Piazza by blocking the fountain outlets. This meant that the aristocracy could enjoy being pulled around on an artificial lake in gilded carriages to take part in mock sea battles that were all the rage at the time.

Fontana dei Quattro Fiumi

The pride of the Piazza is Bernini’s Fontana dei Quattro Fiumi, which was commissioned by Pope Innocent X (look closely and you will see his insignia of doves in the design). The fountain was contentious when it was commissioned, as the money to pay for it was raised by unpopular taxes on bread and other staple foods. This fascinating Baroque creation pays homage to the four greatest rivers of the time, the Danube, the Ganges, the Nile, and the Plate. The fountain also features an Egyptian obelisk in its center.

A recent renovation has brought the Fontana dei Quattro Fiumi back to its former glory. Make sure to look for the two other fountains in the square: At the southern end you can find the Fontana del Moro by Giacomo della Porta and at the northern end there is the Fontana di Nettuno by Antonio della Bitta, depicting Neptune battling with a monster.

Sant’ Agnese in Agnone Church

The Chiostro del Bramante

Commissioned by Innocent X in 1652, this elegant 17th-century church commemorates the execution of Sant’ Agnese. It was built in part by Borromini, who created a notable, concave facade for the church.

At the time, there was intense rivalry between the Bernini and Boromini, and according to legend, the statue on Bernini’s fountain is holding its hand up to the church to protect himself in case it falls down. (From the church facade, a statue of Sant’ Agnes looks down, reassuringly confident in the strength of her church.) Whilst this is a nice story, the fountain was actually created before the church, so it sadly owes more to dramatic license than fact.

Another building of note around the Piazza is the Palazzo Pamphilj, which is now the Brazilian Embassy and which was also commissioned by Innocent X.

Take time to explore the narrow streets around the square especially around the Via della Pace which is a good place for nightlife. Take time also to visit the Chiostro del Bramante and the Santa Maria della Pace Church with its frescoes by Raphael.

Practical Notes

Piazza Navona is located in the historic center and is easy to reach on foot. If you prefer to travel by bus, take the 30 express or the 87, which both stop right by the square.

Note that buying coffee in the square is an expensive option. However, if you take a newspaper and linger at your table long after the coffee cups have been cleared away, you can get more than your money’s worth by just sitting and watching the world go by.

Popularity: 4% [?]

The Maltese capital, Valletta. Photos © hidden europe.

By Nicky Gardner and Susanne Kries—

Combing through old posts here on the EuroCheapo blog, we were surprised to notice that more than half the countries and territories in Europe have hardly had a mention. Among the lacunae are the Mediterranean outposts of Malta and Gibraltar.

Malta is of course a sovereign country. Tiny Gibraltar, by comparison, is one of those little political oddities, a relict of Britain’s colonial adventures, that has its own parliament and generally administers its own affairs. And like Malta, Gibraltar is part of the European Union.

A thin veneer of Englishness

Malta and Gibraltar both pack a few surprises. Folks jet in from other parts of Europe and expect Cockney voices or fish and chips; a dash of England with the big plus of more sunshine. And in truth, tourist-oriented businesses in both Malta and Gibraltar do pander to just such expectations.

But you only need to scrape below the surface of either to find that neither Gibraltar nor Malta have more than a thin veneer of Englishness. Both have their own distinctive languages, a reminder that British efforts to impose their own language on these communities were not entirely successful.

Malta is noted for its fabulous old-fashioned buses.

An intriguing ethnic mix

Many visitors to Malta who have Middle East experience comment that Maltese sounds uncannily like Arabic, and they are not far off the mark. Maltese is closely related to Arabic. Gibraltarians speak Llanito, which draws heavily on Spanish but also has words of Arabic, Hebrew, English and Genoese Ligurian origin.

Culturally, both Malta and Gibraltar are an intriguing mix, each community reflecting the respective patterns of migration that have underpinned the development of the two territories. Who ever would have guessed, for example, that Gibraltar has a thriving Jewish community? Or that the threads of Armenian life are alive and well in Malta?

Malta and Gibraltar are both incredibly interesting places to visit and linger, and more in spite of their historic links with Britain than because of those connections.

One of our favorite travel writers, Jan Morris, has written a novel called Hav about a fictitious port in the Mediterranean. Ms Morris certainly had somewhere much further east in mind when she imagined Hav (and in truth, her chimerical Hav, which has a rather Levantine demeanor, enjoyed direct trains from Russia). Yet there is just a hint of Hav as you wander the alleys of the Maltese capital Valletta or explore the backstreets that cling to the west side of the Rock of Gibraltar.

Susanne and Nicky run a Berlin-based editorial bureau that supplies text and images to media across Europe. Together they edit hidden europe magazine. You can read more of their writing in their regular e-brief and in the Notes section on their website.

Popularity: 8% [?]

The Nike Athena Temple at the Acropolis. Photo by Audrey Sykes.

By Audrey Sykes—

The new Acropolis Museum is 2009’s addition to Athens’ already impressive archeological area of the Acropolis. The new, sleek, and grandiose building holds over 4,000 artifacts from surrounding excavations. The museum is not only impressive to the eye, but its one-euro entrance fee is also impressive to the wallet.

Here’s a run down of what the upgrade brings:

New and improved

A mere 400-meter shift from its previous spot at the top of Acropolis, the new museum sits at the start of the hill’s slope atop ancient ruins of the Byzantines. To compensate for sitting directly on artifacts, the entrance’s glass floors allow visitors to view excavations directly under their feet.

The museum itself is dazzlingly modern and almost 14 times larger than the old museum (closed in 2007). A budget of about €130 million was invested in the four-level structure, providing chic displays, light-senitive glass walls, and illuminated open floors. The café level on the third floor provides a gorgeous view of Athens, and the terrace is an ideal escape from the bustle and hustle of the touristy Plaka district.

What to see

The layout of new Acropolis Museum follow’s a timeline that’s captivating and easy to follow. Small placards in English run throughout the levels, offering short and simple explanations for displays, time periods, and cultural formations.

The ground floor slopes upwards as vases, tools, toys and jewelry from the Neolithic period (around 3000B.C.) line the walls. Dozens of sculptures (from 600B.C. to 79B.C.) that were once votives to the Greek gods make up the second floor display. The layout lets visitors inspect pieces from all sides, from the stunning four Caryatids to other impressive models of Greek gods and heroes.

Photo courtesy of http://www.newacropolismuseum.gr.

Perhaps the museum’s most magnificent display is the Parthenon exhibit on the top floor. A short informative video explains the Parthenon’s exhibit, history, and architecture in a simple and captivating way.

Both first timers and history buffs will ooh and ahh at the former Parthenon adornments of the metopes, frieze, and giant pediments. It’s a refreshing overview that’s fun and engaging for all visitors.

The best way to tackle the Acropolis

The Acropolis is as magnificent in size as it is in historical depth, and most of what is left in good condition remains indoors for protection. A good tip is to visit the new Acropolis Museum before trekking towards the Parthenon, ancient theaters and agoras; it does wonders to help visualize the past.

As a bonus the archeologists responsible for digging up the thousands of artifacts actually hang around inside the museum, waiting to give visitors a brief lesson about any questions that might arise.

The new Acropolis Museum is an excellent opportunity for visitors to wrap their heads around Greek history in a beautiful setting. It’s quite possibly the best bang for your euro on a Greek vacation.

Hours: Tuesday – Sunday: 8 AM to 8 PM. Closed Mondays.
Admission: €1
See www.theacropolismuseum.gr for more details.

Popularity: 5% [?]

Kaliningrad's South Station. Photo © hidden europe.

By Nicky Gardner and Susanne Kries—

It is almost time for us to put down our quill pens and leave the scriptorium for the last time this year. Three weeks of quiet retreat are in the offing, a chance for us to recharge our batteries and plan a few journeys for 2010. So a good moment, perhaps, to look back and see what 2009 meant for travel in Europe.

We have over the past twelve months spent time in and reported from some twenty countries across Europe. The year has seen a lot of changes. We are pleased to see some governments across Europe beginning to levy heftier taxes on aviation, and we hope that 2010 will see more following in their wake. Higher plane fares within Europe will be a big incentive to encourage more responsible traveling. Britain has taken a welcome lead in this. We applaud the decision in Scotland to subsidize ferry fares on longer routes to the Hebrides - another important step in encouraging travelers to think twice before hopping on a plane.

Over the past year, travelers have benefited from Switzerland joining the Schengen group of nations and Slovakia adopting the euro. Iceland’s financial misfortunes in late 2008, with a slump in the value of the Icelandic króna, suddenly made the island nation much more attractive for travelers from North America and mainland Europe. In ailing economies in eastern Europe, and particularly in the Baltic States, tourism has been a key element in the fragile recovery now underway.

New travel opportunities

Citizens of some Balkan states are today much less well traveled than their parents. But that looks set to change with the new European Union visa regulations that came into effect last weekend, ushering in a more relaxed visa regime for visitors to the EU from Serbia, Montenegro and Macedonia. For Serbia, this is a tangible reward from the EU to the Belgrade government for playing the great game of European integration. Olive branches from Brussels are being offered to Minsk too, and we predict that 2010 will surely see some thawing of the relations between Belarus and the EU. That will perhaps in time make life easier for travelers bound for Belarus, which remains one of Europe’s most inaccessible and yet most intriguing countries.

Rail links and politics

A new train service would not normally be greeted as a major diplomatic event, but when the new service links Serbia with Bosnia via Croatia then folk do take notice. The Belgrade to Sarajevo route was severed during the conflicts of the nineties. Now it is back, with a very welcome once daily train from the Serbian to the Bosnian capital. The new service started in mid-December.

If train services are a mark of political cooperation, then we must mourn the demise of one of Europe’s key night train links - the daily service from Berlin to Kaliningrad. It ran for the last time ten days ago. The withdrawal of this train now leaves Russia’s Baltic exclave at Kaliningrad even more isolated.

Airlines that left the skies

Finally, a thought for all the staff and passengers affected by over a dozen airline bankruptcies in Europe in 2009. Casualties included the national flag carriers of Lithuania (FlyLAL) and Macedonia (MAT); discount carriers such as Sky Europe, Fly Globespan, and My Air; and niche carriers serving particular markets such as Sky South and KD Avia (with hubs at Shoreham and Kaliningrad respectively).

We shall be back next month, but meanwhile warm best wishes for the holidays from us both.

Susanne and Nicky run a Berlin-based editorial bureau that supplies text and images to media across Europe. Together they edit hidden europe magazine. You can read more of their writing in their regular e-brief and in the new Notes section on their website.

Popularity: 5% [?]

Caravaggio's "Madonna di Loreto" on display. Photo by Gaspa.

By Samantha Collins in Rome—

There is something about Caravaggio that fascinates people. Even those who would normally prefer to cross a street of hot coals than spend time looking at paintings seem happy to make an exception for this rebel of Counter-Renaissance Art.

To celebrate Rome’s Caravaggio exhibition that has just opened at the Villa Borghese (and runs through January 24, 2010), it seemed timely to look at this bad boy of the paintbrush and take a tour around Rome to see some of his masterpieces for free!

So just who was Caravaggio?

Whilst most artists of the Middle Ages were more soft ruffles than tough scuffles, Caravaggio was not afraid of a fight, a drink, and the odd murder to boot. Commission happy, the taste of luxury did not bring out his lighter side. As well as pushing the Catholic church to the edge with his dark religious paintings, he eventually lost his temper once too often. After killing a young man who beat him in a tennis match in the Campo Dei Fiori, he fled Rome with a price on his head. He finally died in exile, never learning that he had been given a Papal Pardon.

Where can I see Caravaggio for free?

Sant’ Agostino Church
Via Sant’ Agostino

The Madonna di Loreto (painted in 1605, pictured above) is hung in the first chapel on the left. The church is close to Piazza Navona, and also includes a Raphael fresco. The church is currently under restoration, but don’t be fooled. Under the scaffolding, it is still open so you can see the paintings. For those who are pregnant (or wish to be), touch the statue of the “Madonna del Parto” near the door as you leave for luck.

San Luigi dei Francesi
Via Giustiniani

San Luigi dei Francesi. Photo: Gaspa

In the church of San Luigi dei Francesi you get three Caravaggio paintings for free with the Matthew trilogy, including  “The Calling of Saint Matthew”, “St. Matthew and the Angels”, and “The Matrydom of Saint Matthew”. This church is close to the centre, a short walk from the Pantheon and Piazza Navona, and next to the French institute with its wonderful bookshop.

Santa Maria Del Popolo
Piazza Del Popolo

This church is about a 20-minute walk from the historic centre, or you can take the Metro Linea A to Flaminio. Here you can find two paintings, the “Conversion of St. Paul” and “The Crucifixion of St. Peter”, so well worth the journey.

Please note that many churches are closed between 1 PM - 4 PM, but usually stay open in the evening until around 7 PM.

And if I want to pay?

Well if you are at the Santa Maria del Popolo, it is just a short walk up the hill to the Galleria Borghese, and its wonderful park. Here you can see three Caravaggio works, “Sick Bacchus”, “Boy with Bag of Fruit” and “Madonna dei Palafrenieri”. Entrance will cost you €8.50 but you also get to see the amazing Bernini sculpture of “Daphne and Apollo” amongst many other treasures.

At the moment, you can also access the Caravaggio and Bacon exhibition, on through January 24. Note that for the Galleria Borghese, you need to book in advance as only a limited number are allowed in at any one time (more details here).

Lastly, you can see the “Gypsy Fortune Teller” at the Capitoline Museums, entrance fee €6.50. Don’t forget that both of these museums are included in the Roma Pass, which is a 3-day pass that gives you free access to two museums, free travel on Rome’s public transport, and discounts to other museums and attractions. The pass costs €23. (read more about the Roma Pass).

Popularity: 9% [?]

Walking along the East Side Gallery. Photo by Mark Turner.

By Susan Buzelli in Berlin–

With only a handful of sights to its name, the edgy Berlin district of Friedrichshain, which is infamous for its anti-capitalism protests, prolific graffiti artists, and rocking music venues, isn’t a jackpot in the sight-seeing department. But thanks to its free-to-see landmarks and a bevy of inexpensive and innovative eateries, this is a great day-time destination for Cheapos desperate to give their wallets some serious R and R.

Here are some great ways to spend a Cheapo-friendly afternoon in Friedrichshain.

Open-air Art: The East Side Gallery

From the Ostbahnhof S-bahn station, stroll alongside Friedrichshain’s best-known attraction: the free-of-charge East Side Gallery (Mühlen Str., between the Ostbahnhof train station and Warschauer Str.) Reputed to be the continent’s largest open-air gallery, it’s a great way to pay tribute to the 20th anniversary of the fall of the Berlin Wall.

The .8-mile-long stretch of Wall bordering the Spree river is a concrete canvas for some 100 graffiti-style artworks. The two most famous images: Birgit Kinder’s painting of a Trabant, the iconic East German car, bursting through the Wall and Dmitri Vrubel’s rendering of a passionate kiss between the Soviet Union’s Leonid Brezhnev and East Germany’s Erich Honecker. If you need a break, spread out on the recently revamped Spree river banks, tucked away just behind the Wall.

A Bridge with a View

The Oberbaumbrucke. Photo by Stadtneurotiker.

Once you’ve reached the end of Mühlen Str., the historic, red brick Oberbaumbrücke bridge, which links Friedrichshain to Kreuzberg, is impossible to miss.

Originally built in the 18th century, the two-story structure with a 21st-century addition by Spanish architect Santiago Calatrava, offers sweeping views of eastern Berlin. Look east to see the shimmering silver Molecule Man sculpture rising from the river. Look west to spot the ubiquitous Fernsehturm (TV tower).

Music fans should check out the patterned brick-and-glass Universal Records building, where the company’s European headquarters is located, adjacent to the bridge.

Lunch in a shabby-chic hood

Continue north on Warschauer Strasse to reach the heart of the Boxhaganer Kiez, a shabby-chic hood between Boxhagener Strasse and Revaler Strasse. A gathering place for stylish students, wannabe musicians, and other low-earning Berliners, this colorful corner boasts plenty of eateries serving low-budget food with flair. The best spots serve portions so large that a party of two could fill their bellies for less than €10.

Organic burger joints and vegan eateries are the restaurants du jour in this trend-conscious foodie zone. Since you probably didn’t travel all the way to Berlin to sample diner-style cheeseburgers (or veggie burgers) and fries, you should skip places like Kreuzburger (Grünberger Str. 52-53), Green Burger (Grünberger Str. 38), and Burgeramt/Frühstucksclub (Krossener Str. 22).

Vegan Pizza at Yoyo Foodworld. Photo: Milgrammer.

If you can’t resist the urge, head to the best of the bunch, Frittiersalon (Boxhagener Str. 104). Reminiscent of a 1950’s diner, the organic burgers served in this greasy spoon are big and tasty. Not to be missed are the house-made potato chips and the diverse, house-made sauces. Vegetarian Wurst is also on the menu.

Meatless meals

Vegans and the green-minded are well served well by another set of Friedrichshain faves that specialize in politically-responsible dishes. The popular Yoyo Foodworld (Gärtner Str. 27) is dedicated to providing strict vegans with dishes that are usually verboten from their diets: Käsespätzle (cheese-covered egg noodles), gyros, schnitzels, burgers, and even banana splits. And the price is right: a vegan hot chili cheeseburger with fries and a salad is €6.99.

A few blocks away, Vöner (Boxhagener Str. 56) draws the vegan masses with its P.C. version of the city’s most beloved meat-centric snack: the Döner kebab. The Imbisse (snack stand) also turns out a mean veggie burger and a meaty bio burger.

A Soviet-era Avenue: Karl Marx Allee

Karl Marx Allee's Soviet facades. Photo by Mishkabear.

After lunching, wrap up your tour of Friedrichshain with a visit to the Stalinist-era Karl Marx Allee (at the northern end of Warschauer Str., between Alexanderplatz and Frankfurter Allee).

A showcase of monumental Communist architecture, including eight-story, “wedding cake” apartment buildings sheathed in creamy white tiles, the wide boulevard was built by the Soviets shortly after World War II to impress the west. In addition to hosting government-sanctioned marches, it also hosted a brutally-put down demonstration by workers on June 17, 1953.

After staring up at the 2,620-feet-high, neo-classical towers marking the Allee’s eastern end, meander west, past chipping, graffiti-covered facades, funky movie theaters, and retro store fronts, some of which still bear their funky 1950’s shop signs. The apartment buildings west of the Weberwiese U-bahn stop are the most impressive as they’ve been wonderfully restored to their Stalinist/neoclassical glory.

When you’ve had enough, rest your feet and grab a coffee at the historic Café Sybille (Karl Marx Allee 72), which includes an exhibit about the Berlin Wall. A hipper option across the street, Ehrenburg Café (Karl Marx Allee 103) is named after Ilya Ehrenburg, a Soviet-Jewish journalist.

About the author: A Pittsburgh native, Susan Buzzelli had stints in Dresden, Munich, and Hamburg before settling (possibly for good) in Europe’s most dynamic city: Berlin. Her comprehensive guidebook to Germany, Zeitguide Germany, will be published soon. Look for updates on her website, www.susanbuzzelli.com.

Popularity: 7% [?]

The Capitoline Museums, covered by the pass. Photo: Samantha Collins.

By Samantha Collins in Rome–

The Roma Pass is a three-day discount card that gives you free or discounted access to some of Rome’s top museums, as well as free use of the public transport system. Launched to encourage visitors into the museums, the scheme is proving to be a popular one.

But at a cost of €23, will it save you money during your stay or is it better to “pass” and spend your money elsewhere?

What does the Roma Pass include?

· Free admission to two participating museums of your choice, including some of the most popular in Rome, including the Colosseum, Villa Borghese, and the Capitoline Museums. In many cases, pass holders have priority and can skip the line.

· Free unlimited public transport (bus, metro, tram and local train).

· A Rome map, including public transport networks.

· A list of participating museums, and an events guide with discount vouchers for exhibitions, shows, and events around Rome.

· Free medical advice from a multilingual helpline.

Where can you buy it?

Deal or no deal?

You can purchase a Roma Pass at any of the tourist information kiosks (PITs) that you find around the city centre, including outside Termini Station and Castel St. Angelo, and at the participating museums.

The pass is valid for three days, and it expires at midnight on the third day after you have used it for the first time. You can also buy it online, although the service is not very reliable.

Is it good value?

Well, if we assume that you are something of a “culture vulture,” rather than a “hotel hermit,” it is pretty much certain that you will take a bus or two, use the metro at least once, and would like to visit at least one museum or monument. Considering that the Colosseum is the most visited attraction in Italy, it is also safe to assume that is high on your list.

So let’s add it up:

A three-day pass to use the public transport system will cost you €11. Standard admission to the Colosseum costs €9. You are still €3 short, but you have one more museum left and a whole host of discount tickets to use.

So with the time you saved not queuing at the Colosseum (pass holders use a special turnstile), you could move on to drool at the wonderful Bernini sculpture of Apollo and Daphne at the Villa Borghese (entrance €8.50), or admire Caravaggio at the Capitoline Museums (€6.50)… and still have saved enough for a cappucino and a cake.

Is it for you?

Of course, it’s possible to simply wander around Rome only seeing the outside of buildings and not spend a thing. Yet whilst the Roma Pass probably won’t save you an enormous amount of money, it may get you into places that you may have otherwise missed.

The pass also encourages you to explore a little beyond the centre, with places such as the Appia Antica Catacombs included in the scheme. With your route map and transport ticket, you should be able figure out how to get out and about and see a little more than you would otherwise.

However, if you are happy to spend your time wandering Rome’s narrow streets on foot, and the thought of spending an afternoon in a museum brings out a cold sweat, then the Roma Pass probably would not pass the value test.

For more information on the pass, check out the Roma Pass website.

About the author: Samantha Collins is a freelance travel writer and editor, who has lived in Rome for the past two years.  She is originally from Manchester in the UK.  Read all about her adventures by visiting her blog, Travel Tales from Italy.

Popularity: 10% [?]

Passengers on the 95 bus. All photos by Theadora Brack.

By Theadora Brack in Paris—

Gather around, my fellow multitasking “Puces de Paris” junkies. Here’s a twofer for you: a hot “flea market sandwich” with a virtually free bus tour filling in between. Tous à bord!

Two flea markets and a Paris city tour

The bus stop.

My name is Theadora and I am addicted to flea markets in Paris. One is never enough. Cheapos, haven’t we all been there?

No worry lines, though, because I have the solution: Let me introduce you to the 95 bus line, or, as I call it, the “Oriental Rug Express.” It connects the two best flea markets in the city: the Marché aux Puces de la Porte de Vanves (bus stop: Porte de Vanves) and the Marché aux Puces St-Ouen de Clignancourt (bus stop: Porte de Montmartre).

For the mere price of a metro ticket (the same tickets work for both buses and metros), you’ll not only travel between the flea markets in comfort (the markets are at both ends of the line, so you’re guaranteed a seat), but you’ll also be able to kick back, catch your breath, and boast about your first kills of the day while the panorama of Paris rolls by en route to the next market. The 95 is one of the most scenic bus lines in the city, so don’t pack your camera away!

Junket bus tips

Hit the Porte de Vanves market first, since it’s open only on weekend mornings. Arrive early—vendors start packing up at noon. Shop your heart out, and then hop on the 95.

Cold outside and no bus in sight? Grab a café at bar “Grill 14” directly behind the bus stop. While warming up, you can keep an eye out for your ride. There’s a WC in the bar and an ATM machine just around the corner, too.

Once aboard, you’ll cruise clear across Paris to Clignancourt, which stays open till 7 PM. The ride is as good as a guided tour! Here are just a few of the hotspots you’ll glimpse whilst snaking through Paris’ narrow streets for the next 45 minutes.

Keep your eyes peeled for:

1. Institut Pasteur — Got milk? here’s why!

St. Germain des Pres

2. Gare Montparnasse — Jumping off place for Chartres, and points west and south-west.

3. Tour Montparnasse — Tallest building in France.

4. Musée de la Poste — Way more than just a stamp collection.

5. Rue de Rennes — Left bank shopping mecca.

6. Félix Potin building, 140 rue de Rennes. Art Nouveau masterpiece, now home to a Zara.

7. L’Eglise Saint-Germain des-Prés — Oldest church in central Paris.

Sennelier Art Supplies.

8. Sennelier art supply, 3 Quai Voltaire — Where Picasso & friends got their paint.

9. Pont du Carrousel — Statues representing Industry, Abundance, Paris, and the Seine.

10. Pont des Arts – First cast-iron bridge in the city, for pedestrians only.

11. Musée du Louvre – ’nuff said.

12. Pyramide du Louvre — I.M. Pei’s pointy glass peak.

13. Arc-de-Triomphe du Carrousel – The “Mini-Me” of the big Arc de Triomphe.

14. Rue de Rivoli — Colonnade made for promenading à la mode.

The Pyramid du Louvre

15. Comédie-Française — Home to thespians from Molière to Sarah Bernhardt.

16. Rue de la Paix — Priciest address in the French version of Monopoly!

17. Palais Garnier, a.k.a. the “Opéra de Paris’ — Haunt of the Phantom; it sits atop an underground lake.

18. Boulevard Haussmann — Starring grands magasins like Printemps and Galeries-Lafayette decked out in Belle Époque.

19. Gare St-Lazare — Train-station-muse of both Monet and Manet!

20. Place de Clichy — “The Times Square of Paris”.

21. Brasserie Wepler – One of writer Henry Miller’s favorite hangouts.

The Palais Garnier.

22. L’Hippodrome — With an indoor horse track it was the largest theater in Europe, now a Castorama hardware store.

23. Cimetière Montmartre — Deathplace of Dalida and Degas.

And finally, at the terminus, the flea markets of Clignancourt! Soothed by all these sights, your junk-searching eyes are ready to roll again. Bon chance!

About the author: Theadora Brack is a writer working in Paris. Her fiction has appeared in more than 30 literary publications, including 3AM International, The Smoking Poet, Beloit Fiction Journal, Mid-American Review, and the Haight-Ashbury Literary Journal.

Popularity: 7% [?]

Ancient ruins in Ostia Antica. Photos by Claire Chaffey.

By Claire Chaffey in Rome—

Ostia Antica, one of Italy’s most interesting and best-preserved archaeological sites, is also one of the country’s best-kept secrets. Well, that’s certainly the impression one gets when arriving there, due to the distinctly unusual tranquility of the place, and the conspicuous lack of tour groups, roving guides, and buses.

Considering that Ostia Antica is only a 30-minute train ride from the center of Rome, it is truly worth a visit!

History

Highlights of the former port’s long and colorful history include its establishment by a legendary Roman King sometime around the 7th century B.C (though no-one really knows for sure), frequent raids by arson-loving, river-hopping pirates, being overtaken by numerous Roman emperors who tarted the place up in accordance with current architectural trends, being the place where Santa Monica–the patron saint of married women–died in a local pub, slowly evolving into a country retreat for idle Roman aristocrats, and eventually falling into abandonment and decay somewhere around the 9th century A.D. (Whew!)

Mosaics in the Roman baths.

Ostia Antica today

Today, Ostia Antica is a sprawling stretch of painstakingly restored ruins which, despite their age, successfully retain the essence of the city’s former complexity and grandeur.

The best thing about Ostia Antica is the fact that, apart from practically having the place to yourself, you can wander around the ruins and easily imagine what it was like to have lived in a thriving and cosmopolitan city like Ostia. You can imagine buying your fruit and vegetables at one of the many shop fronts which line the main thoroughfare. Or, marvel at the almost flawlessly preserved mosaics which formed the hot and steamy Roman baths. Why not have a go at worshiping the sun god in one of the spectacular pagan temples? (Or you could imagine what it was like trying to get a little privacy with twenty other people with you in one of the many communal latrines….)

The Castle of Julius II

Your tour guide awaits...

Once you have spent a couple of hours walking amongst and climbing over the ruins, it is worth going to have a peek at Castle of Julius II, located just across the road. The castle is situated in the gorgeous little Piazza della Rocca, in which Ostia’s inhabitants go about their daily business and several plump and friendly local cats will happily escort you around.

Getting there and getting in

Take the metro to “Piramide Station” on Line B. From there, get on the city urban line towards “Lido di Ostia.” Get off at “Ostia Antica,” cross the footbridge and follow the signs. Trains leave every half hour and the fare is covered by a €1 metro ticket.

Entry fee is €6.50 for adults over 25. Those between 18 – 25 get in for half price. If you’re under 18 or over 65, you don’t have to pay at all! Open between 8:30 AM – 6:00 PM. Closed Mondays.

Cheapo tip: The eateries in Ostia Antica aren’t fabulous, unless you are willing to pay a little more than you probably want to. So, if possible, pack your lunch!

About the author: Claire is a freelance journalist currently eating and drinking her way through Rome following a stint as a reporter in West Africa. Claire’s work has appeared in the Sydney Morning Herald, TNT Magazine, Way2Go Magazine and the Ghanaian Times.

Popularity: 14% [?]