Dubrovnik Budget Tips: Hotel reservations, ferries, and neighborhoods

Tuesday, January 5th, 2010
The port of Dubrovnik. Photo by Tambako the Jaguar.

The port of Dubrovnik. Photo by Tambako the Jaguar.

By Audrey Sykes—

Ask any beach-savvy European and they’ll wax on about Croatia being the new, and more affordable, Mediterranean paradise. Dubrovnik especially emits a feeling of romance as its Old Town walls pair with the Adriatic like some majestic dream.

But like every beach diamond vacation, Dubrovnik is beginning to saturate itself with tourist traps and overpriced snags. To stay within the local cost range, here are some helpful tips:

1. Book (or don’t book) your hotel accordingly

Like many Mediterranean destinations, there are three ways to book accommodation: online, at the tourist offices, or from the hotel owners who linger at airports and bus stations. Heading to the tourist office is the least favorable, as it’s a hassle to locate and rates are rarely appealing. While booking online guarantees a reservation and a variety of room rates, it also lacks the real deals that owners are willing to offer upon your arrival.

That’s why the third option is your best bet for a great deal, if your stomach can stand arriving in town sans reservation. Most hotel owners are like a gentle, friendly mob waiting to greet the tourists. Take time to observe the brochures being displayed, especially as names might match up with ones in online guides and travel books.

Get a few quotes on prices before making a final choice; ask around to find a hotel that offers airport drop-offs, internet, breakfast, a good location, etc. The whole experience might seem a bit unusual and disorganized, but this advertising method is much more effective for mom-and-pop pensions.

2. Ferry and bus transport prices vary

Day trips out of Dubrovnik to nearby islands and small towns vary in price depending on time, day, and company. Simply expecting a list of options to be given at the ticket counter isn’t going to happen, so be prepared to ask. Workers generally speak enough English to answer inquiries about timetables and prices, so quiz the ferry port and bus station ticket desks with a paper and pen in hand.

Get a few quotes on midweek and weekend prices, as well as morning, midday, and evening departures. Another important thing to note is the return time. Off-season transport runs on a more sporadic schedule than the popular summertime, so get the round trip info figured out before setting sail.

3. Buy out of Dubrovnik’s “Old Town”

This advice may seem obvious, but it’s surprisingly intimidating to venture out of the picture-perfect walled city. For the best deals, however, strap on your adventure boots and get out of the tourist area for the real local gifts and wallet-friendly prices.

The district of Lapad is a beautiful neighborhood outside the Old City to stroll around. Shops and restaurants around the beach area streets of Šetaliste Kralja Zvonimira and Šetaliste Nika i Meda Pucica will carry a higher price tag than ones off the beaten path, but Lapad’s greenery and admirable architecture will make exploration a pleasantly satisfying one. Rentals for beach fun like snorkels and fishing are at a lower price than Old Town, so planning a day in the sand along Lapad is also worthwhile.

Just like any knowledgeable traveler will know, doing a little research before arrival will really help you out. However, having the confidence to interact with locals and venture away from the masses can be just as helpful and cost-effective, especially in budding tourist towns.

Popularity: 3% [?]

Copenhagen: 7 questions for our hotel reviewer, Sarah Silbert

Thursday, November 19th, 2009
Sarah relaxes at the Viking Bar in Copenhagen. Photo: Derek Van Gorder

Sarah relaxes at Copenhagen's Viking Bar. Photo: Derek Van Gorder

We were very pleased to update our Copenhagen hotel reviews yesterday, adding several new budget hotel picks, and refreshing our existing listings. Sarah Silbert, our “listings guru” in the New York office, visited Copenhagen last month to tackle the job. We sat down with her this morning to learn more about her trip.

As a first-time visitor to Copenhagen, what did you find surprising about the city?

I didn’t think it would be so compact! All the main attractions are roughly in the same area, so it’s very easy to cover the city on foot.

Did you walk everywhere?

Nearly. I never needed to take public transportation, aside from getting into the city from the airport. I would have loved to rent a bike, but the weather was pretty miserable and rainy so I opted out.

Did you find Copenhagen easy to visit for budget travelers?

With a bit of effort, it can be. Hotel rates themselves are probably the biggest expense, though there are certainly deals to be had. Dining can be reasonably cheap if you forgo touristy restaurants (especially around Tivoli and Nyhavn) for meals at the pizza and kebab joints popular with the locals.

Mmmmm… Pizza and kebabs. Did you have any memorable meals?

In an effort to keep expenses down, I ate meal after meal of falafel schawarma sandwiches. With good reason, too—they’re delicious and cost around DKK 20 (about $4). After my last day of visiting hotels, however, I did splurge on some tasty Japanese fare at Kung Fu Izakaya Bar in Vesterbro.

You deserved it, after visiting dozens of hotels in the city. Which hotel was your favorite?

It’s a tough call, but the Avenue Hotel in Frederiksberg won me over with its lovely rooms and warm hospitality. Hotel Alexandra, which boasts guestrooms outfitted with the work of famed Danish designers, is a close second. However, these are just two of many hotels boasting sleek Danish design and central locations.

Where did you stay?

I stayed at the Absalon Hotel. I had booked a room at the Absalon Annex (which I reviewed), but upon arrival was upgraded to a room at the hotel’s three-star sister property.

Really? Did they know you were reviewing them?

No! Of course not. I told them during check out–and then asked to see a bunch of rooms!

Thanks for the great job, Sarah. To read her work, check out her Copenhagen hotel reviews and city guide articles.

Popularity: 5% [?]

“Bed in a Tree”: Unusual hotels around the world

Tuesday, September 29th, 2009
The "Therapy" room at Propeller Island City. Photo by Sterin.

The "Therapy" room at Propeller Island City. Photo by Sterin.

By Sarah Silbert—

We were pleased when a copy of Bed in a Tree, published by Eyewitness Travel, came across our desk the other day. Flipping through, we couldn’t decide which magnificently unusual hotel we liked best.

The book, written by Bettina Kowalewski, surveys 27 of the world’s most unique accommodations, from giant wine barrel guestrooms in Germany’s Rhine Valley to elegant canopy beds atop an ancient tree in the South African wilderness. Each hotel description is complemented by pages of stunning photos and tips on what to do in the hotels’ locales.

bed-in-a-treeMost of Kowalewski’s picks are located in lesser-known (and more interesting) destinations, and they all clearly demonstrate how hotels can be so much more than a place to sleep. While many of the hotels aren’t Cheapo-friendly (hello, $590 a night Ice Hotel in Norrbotten, Sweden!), Kowalewski thankfully includes a few budget-friendly spots.

Here are five unique sleeps featured in the book that are easy on the budget:

Capsule Hotel
Located on a canal in The Hague, though the exact location changes.
www.capsulehotel.info

The Capsule Hotel in The Hague, the Netherlands, caught our eye with its two James Bond-inspired oil rig pod rooms furnished with beds made of fisherman’s net and sheepskin rugs. (Rooms are even outfitted with karaoke machines!) It would be quite a ride to spend the night bobbing up and down on the water.
Nightly rates: €70-150

Propeller Island City
Albrecht Achilles Strasse 58
Berlin, Germany 10709
www.propeller-island.com

As long-time fans of Berlin’s many art hotels, we loved the book’s photos of the 27-room Propeller Island City, located in the German capital. Each room boasts a wildly different theme—you could sleep in a coffin (with air holes, of course), or bask in the light of the “Therapy” room’s multicolored fluorescent lamps. While we’re not sure we’re brave enough to stay in one of the hotel’s wonderfully outrageous rooms, we think it would be a blast to visit.
Nightly rates: €70-190

Pension Kamerichs
Ditzroder Weg 18
Bad Laasphe, Germany 57334
www.pension-kamerichs.de

Pension Kamerichs, located in Westphalia, Germany, is a B&B—minus the roof. The “room” consists of a white iron bed on a pretty green lawn, plus a nightstand and a chair. Sure, there’s not much privacy—though the lawn humorously boasts a door frame, but the prospect of sleeping out in the fresh air sounds pretty appealing. Marie-Luise Kamerichs, the enthusiastic proprietor, provides old-fashioned nightclothes for the guests (as demonstrated in several funny photos in the book), and breakfast is included.
Nightly rates: €35

Park Plane Hotel
Woodlyn Park
Waitomo, New Zealand
www.woodlynpark.co.nz

Waitomo, New Zealand’s Woodlyn Park Plane Hotel provides guestrooms on a 1940s Bristol B-170. The plane has plenty of history, having once carried military personnel into Thailand and Hong Kong. The rooms pictured look considerably more comfortable than economy class fold-back seats, and the cockpit unit, complete with the switches and knobs of the control panel, offers an especially unique stay. The hotel’s owner also runs a converted train wagon hotel, a Hobbit Motel, and a World War II patrol boat hotel.
Nightly rates: $85-95

A "roulotte" in La Serve. Photo by Wolf_H

A "roulotte" in La Serve. Photo by Wolf_H.

Les Roulottes de La Serve
69860 Ouroux
Rhône-Alpes, France
www.lesroulottes.com

Les Roulottes de La Serve, located in the beautiful Rhône-Alpes region of southwestern France, offers accommodation in the form of three converted roulettes, or “gypsy wagons.” Each of the three guestrooms boasts a different, dazzling décor, from Asian-inspired artwork in the Roulette des Étoiles to the rustic décor in the Roulette de Manège. The pastoral French location, combined with the novelty of sleeping in a caravan that has roamed the country, has us craving a night in any of these wagons.
Nightly rates: €50-60

About the book: “Bed in a Tree,” by Bettina Kowalewski, was published in September 2009 by Eyewitness Travel. The book also includes vouchers for a 10% discount at 15 of the 27 selected hotels. The book retails for $25.

Popularity: 10% [?]

Friday the 13th: Where are you going?

Friday, February 13th, 2009

spookyboot
Bad luck can dirty your shoes any day of the week in Paris.

Cause for celebration or screams?

Did you know that many airlines won’t book seat #13 on seemingly spooky days like Friday the 13th? The same goes for hotels, where the staff conveniently makes sure room #13 is vacant.

Sure, to us it sounds like the plot of a cheesy Stephen King film, maybe starring John Cusack, but according to a London Times survey, many people do opt out of travel when this famous prime number just happens to fall on a Friday.

No fear

Well, superstitions be gone! These inclings have never stopped the Cheapos (cue flashy music!), which brings us to the above photo. Let’s face it, you can accidentally step in dog poop any day of the week in Paris. Bad luck happens no matter what day it is.

What do we do on Friday the 13th? Later today, Tom, our fearless ed-in-chief, embarks for Los Angeles, where he’ll attend the LA Times Travel Show and be featured in a panel Sunday afternoon. Go Tom!

Another Cheapo is traveling through South Carolina, soaking up sun, and sampling the real culinary delights of easy, breezy beachside livin’.

If we needed inspiration, we’d take some from New Zealand, where a group of people jump out of planes on Friday the 13th. Take that superstition!

Just Jason

Finally, when it comes to trying to remove the stigma attached to 13, we’re not the first who have tried. Check out this brief history of Friday the 13th, put together by TIME magazine.

Today, too, a new Friday the 13th movie hits theaters. We can’t think of a better Valentine’s Day gift than offering your loved one a ticket to Jason’s rage. Here’s a spookily mixed review. Alas, we know one Cheapo who might just head out tonight and see it.

Have a great weekend, Cheapos, and Happy Valentine’s Day!

Popularity: 9% [?]

Riga: Postcard from Latvia

Tuesday, February 3rd, 2009

Riga view
Riga, Latvia, as seen from the observation deck of St. Peter’s church.

Note: EuroCheapo editor Tom Meyers is traveling in Europe, inspecting hotels in Paris and Riga, Latvia. He’s blogging about his travels along the way.

February 2, 2009–Greetings from Riga, Latvia, where I’ve spent the last four days exploring the town, getting acquainted with its history, and, of course, checking out budget hotels.

Riga has a wonderful and picturesque ”Old Town” neighborhood. This section of town dates back to the city’s Medieval beginnings, and has been preserved (and rebuilt) over the centuries. Fires, wars, occupations… you name it, the city has perservered, rebuilt, and clung to its cultural identity.

The Old Town is where I’ve focused my hotel search, and where most of the super-charming lodgings are situated. And what a selection! So far I’ve seen a handful of budget-friendly “boutique” hotels (with funky artwork and eclectic decor), a convent-turned-hotel complex, a super-old no-star with style, and several completely new hotels that were built to look old. 

Today I’ll check out some ultra-cheap hostels (with private rooms), as well as some two and three-star hotels located in the “Center,” which is the neighborhood just outside the Old Town.

Riga's Old Town
A street in Riga’s Old Town.

Hotel owners and managers have been very friendly, and for the most part have spoken flawless English. In Riga, tourism makes up an extremely important part of the town’s economy, so most in the business speak at least Russian and English, in addition to Latvian.

Right now, the Latvian economy is hurting. Money is tight, banks are on the verge of failing, and budgets are being slashed all around. (For example, when checking out performances during my stay, I found that the ballet had slashed its performance schedule.) Everyone’s talking about the crisis, and it’s only made worse by the tourism calendar–the tourist season doesn’t begin until April, when the weather finally warms up.  

The financial mess has spawned a political crisis, as well, as protestors took to the streets two weeks ago in an effort to overthrow the current government. These protests, which ended in a handful of injuries, occured in a square just blocks from my current hotel. It seems so hard to believe, walking the cobbled streets today.

And so it goes. I’m off to hunt down some more hotels and treat myself to one more Latvian blow-out lunch. Here’s an idea of what I’m talking about, snapped yesterday at 1 PM at the “Lido” cafeteria-style restaurant in Old Town:

Lunch in Riga

The plate features chicken stroganoff (a dish I was delighted to hear existed!) with stewed vegetables over rice, with a side salad (lettuce, shredded carrots, and pickled red onions), grape juice, and a beer. The meal, including juice, cost 3.90 lats, about $7.00. The beer cost 1.50 lats, or about $2.50.

Bon appetite!

Popularity: 17% [?]

London Spotlight: Alex dishes up the goods.

Thursday, January 15th, 2009

98-pence store 
If only everything in London could be so cheap! Photo by drinksmachine

Recently, Alex Robertson Textor, our awesome editor emeritus and current writer-at-large, spent a few months in London and reviewed a host of new hotels for EuroCheapo while updating existing hotel reviews. In addition, he scoped out and tested cheap eats (bacon anyone?), budget tips, and lots more.

Positively brilliant!

If you haven’t already, might we suggest his “Insider Info” interview as a starting-off point?  It’s chock full of fun facts and anecdotes. Next, move on to his newly updated “Budget Tips” article, and then browse listings of more than 70 budget hotels, from hostels to B&Bs, and more unique sleeps.

Alex even added new neighborhoods citing the fact that London is so expansive, but easily accessed by public transport. This London guide offers new locales like “The City” and “Southwark/Bankside” among others. For help in choosing the right neighborhood, Alex lends helpful advice here.

Shout out!

And, as many of you dear Cheapos know, Alex also pens his own blog, “Spendthrift Shoestring.” Follow his travels here. In addition, he writes regularly for the New York Post blog. Check his latest dispatch out here.

Righty-ho!

Popularity: 8% [?]

Planning: Paris and St. Petersburg, done. Moscow, well…

Friday, January 9th, 2009

Tallinn, Estonia
Does Tallinn, Estonia hold the key? Photo by Elmada.

Next Friday, January 16, I’ll be heading off to Paris for a week of hotel visits. Paris is always a joy, even in the midst of a cold January, and I’m looking forward to sleeping in three different (and yet unnamed!) hotels while spending my days visiting and reviewing about 40 others. Finding and booking those three Paris hotels was a cinch (thanks, CheapoSearch!).

A Russian Journey

The real adventure, however, starts the following Saturday, January 24, when I’ll be flying to St. Petersburg, Russia. I’ll spend eight days in the culture-rich city, sleeping at a friend’s apartment. As the St. P. visit will be mostly vacation, I haven’t decided whether or not to do a “mini-guide” to the city’s budget hotels, although I’ll certainly write some blog posts.

I had originally decided to follow St. Petersburg with a quick two-day trip to Moscow. I posted last month about the difficulties I experienced in finding an affordable hotel in the Russian capital and asked for advice. Readers responded — mostly directly to me via email, with very helpful suggestions.

The Moscow hotel search

I had some demands: As I will be traveling with a computer and a couple suitcases, I wanted something more secure than a hostel. As I’ll be hitting the road on my own and don’t speak Russian or read Cyrillic (yet), I wanted to find a hotel that was easy to find. And as much as I love B&Bs and small pensions, those in Moscow that I found didn’t have any user reviews. The thought of buzzing up to an unverified apartment in Moscow gave me the chills.

Every central hotel I could find, however, charged more than $300 per night. The room rates were simply outlandish. Seriously, if you want a good laugh, do a quick search and see what you come up with!

I rejoiced on January 1 when I found a “small single” room in the Kebur Palace, a 4-star hotel, for about $155 a night. I booked it right away on a Russian hotel reservation website. My celebration was cut short, however, when the agency emailed me a “reservation declination” stating that, in fact, the hotel didn’t really have the “small single” available for my dates, but did have a “superior single” for $285 a night available… Throw in Moscow’s steep hotel tax, and the total came out to about $672 for a two-night stay.

I told them, nyet, it was simply too expensive.

They wrote back with another ”affordable” option, the Peking Hotel. The Peking is a well-known 3-star hotel, built in 1955 and sports an impressive Communist exterior. Today it offers renovated rooms of both “standard” and “deluxe” categories. The reservation service offered a single for $190 a night. I wasn’t happy, but it was far cheaper than any other central hotel I had found. With tax, the total came to $450. Ugh.

Yet… it wasn’t really a reservation. My “request” had to be confirmed by the hotel. That should have taken a day. Five days have passed and still no confirmation. No word. No hotel.

And that’s where I find myself today, dear reader. I admit it, Moscow has proven to be a bigger challenge than I expected.

The solution?

I called Continental Airlines this morning and was told I could change my flight for $150. I’m seriously considering dropping the Moscow adventure altogether, and instead heading to Tallinn, Estonia from St. Petersburg. Tallinn is already known as a budget-friendly destination with its own rich history.

I could spend several days in Tallinn for a fraction of the cost of the Moscow hotel alone, and even put together a “mini-guide” while I’m there!

What do you think? 

Should I make the most of  Moscow or drop it and head for Tallinn? Please leave your comments and advice. At this point, I’m open to anything! Thanks!

Popularity: 10% [?]

Moscow hotels: What’s a Cheapo to do? Advice needed!

Tuesday, December 16th, 2008

Moscow from a hotel
Moscow from a hotel room. Photo by sevenbrane.

Here’s the deal: I’m in the midst of planning a late January journey to Russia. It’s completely exciting and different and will take EuroCheapo into new (and frozen) territory. However, I’ve hit a minor accommodation stumbling block and could use a little help from you.

I’ll be in St. Petersburg for eight days–exploring the city, camping out at the Hermitage, and visiting some hotels for the site. I’ve got the lodging covered in St. Petersburg.

Moscow hotel quandary

However, from St. Petersburg I’ll be heading down to Moscow for three days. This requires two nights in a hotel. As you may know, Moscow hotel prices are quite steep.

Here’s what I’ve found so far:

* Hostels are available with bunks for $30 a night.
Problem: I don’t want to stay in a hostel. (And I really shouldn’t, considering I’ll have a computer, cameras, and such. And I haven’t found any hostels with private rooms.)

* B&Bs run about $135-200 a night.
Potential problem: Will I be able to find it? Will I feel completely safe staying in a B&B in Moscow? Most of the B&Bs I’ve found don’t have any guidebook or user reviews. Yikes.

* Hotels start at about $200 and shoot up to over $500 a night!
The cheaper hotels tend to be Soviet-era concrete structures (which have their own special charm), located at some distance to the city center. Recognizable chain hotels start at about (gulp) $300 a night and quickly become much more expensive.

So what’s a Cheapo to do in Moscow? Where does an independent traveler stay?

I’m realizing that this isn’t like planning a trip to Europe. Aside from the slightly spooky formalities (hello mandatory tourist visa!), it’s also quite a bit harder to find helpful advice online.

I’m obviously a proponent of independently-run small hotels, and thus this dilemma doubly concerns me. Perhaps Moscow demands a different approach. I’m wondering if I might want to splurge on a three or four-star hotel in Moscow. Or would it be cheaper to book a hotel through a travel agency in the States?  Join a tour package (double-yikes!)?

Tell me: Have you been to Moscow? Where did you stay? Do you have any advice? Thanks!

Popularity: 8% [?]

EuroCheapo’s Spookiest Hotel Ghosts (seven photos!)

Friday, October 31st, 2008

We take lots of photos while visiting hotels in Europe.  While most of them look fine and accurately capture each hotel, every now and then we notice something unexpected in the corner of the frame.  Something lurking in the shadows.  Something creepy.

That’s right Cheapos:  sometimes we take pictures of budget hotel ghosts!

Think we’re kidding?  Just have a look at the photos below and see if you notice anything peculiar… mwaaahaaahaaa!

#1.  Creepy toilet

This bathroom shot was taken on a sunny day, in a room filled with natural light. So why does this toilet give us the creeps? Because it’s haunted!

#2. Floating leg in shower!

Looks like a typical bathroom scene in a trendy London hotel, right? Everything looks up to snuff, until you notice the floating GHOST LEG in the shower!

3. Haunted London bedroom!

This was nearly a “hotel crush,” until we developed this shot and noticed the menacing ghost orb floating above the bed—and the greenish pillow stains of guests long gone… (Editor’s note:  This hotel did not make our final cut…)

 4. Phantom in Brussels!

 

This photo was taken by Meredith while making her rounds in Brussels last spring. So who’s that man in the corner? A G-H-O-S-T!

5. Ghost orb in Dublin bathtub!

Another orb appears… this time in a Dublin bathtub. We shouldn’t have been surprised. ORBS TAKE BATHS!

6. Pioneer man in Paris pension!

We swear, we were alone in the room when snapping this shot in the Latin Quarter. Who gave him a key? GHOSTS DON’T NEED KEYS!

7. Maverick looking out the window!

Imagine our shock when we studied this shot of an un-named London youth hostel (located “steps from the British Museum”). How did she get there? No wait, she’s just a figment of our imagination, VANISHING BEFORE OUR EYES!

SEND US YOUR CREEPY SHOTS!

Have any spooks shown up unexpectedly in your photos? Email them, we’ll post ‘em! Happy Halloween, Cheapos!

Popularity: 15% [?]

New EuroCheapo guide: Brussels, Belgium

Thursday, July 10th, 2008

Mr. Manneken Pis in Brussels, Belgium

Cheapo newsflash! We’ve just launched a brand spankin’ new city guide and budget hotel primer for Brussels, Belgium! Turns out, you can sleep cheap in the land of waffles, beer, and all those bandes dessinées.

Our guide includes articles on transportation in and around Brussels, reviews of 27 centrally-located hotels, and more. Stay tuned as we’ll be adding more stuff soon. In the meantime, we hope you’ll enjoy getting to know the city of diplomats, bankers, cartoons, chocolate, and a little guy Belgians like to call Manneken Pis.   

As usual, let us know what you think!   

Popularity: 9% [?]