A wine store in Rome. Photo by kwilms.

By Samantha Collins in Rome—

After visiting all the historic sites of Rome, what better way to spend your evening than sipping a glass of wine to quench that thirst? But where do you start with that long list proudly presented to you by the waiter?

Fear not: Whether you are a wine buff or a wine buffoon,  we are here to help with a short guide to Lazio wines and to the maze of Italian classifications.

Lazio wines

Lazio, the region in which Rome is situated, is not as well known for its wines as other Italian regions such as Tuscany and Abruzzo, but it still has a fair few to sample.

In the 1930s, the Lazio region suffered from boggy, malaria-infested land. However, Mussolini initiated a “bonification” program to make the land usable, which  meant workers from the north brought down local grapes such as Merlot or Cabernet. This has led to a diverse wine industry in the region.

Around 80% of the wines produced in Lazio are white, with the best known being Frascati from the Castelli Wine Region just close to Rome and Est Est Est, from Lake Bolsena, further north towards Umbria. Lovers of red should try a sip of Cesanese del Piglio or look out for the Red Cremere (produced by local vineyard Terre del Veio). There is even a Rosato Risona Rosé wine (which is nothing like the sweet, cloying wine drunk by teenagers at the height of 1970’s sophistication).

Wine Classification System

How do you know if you are buying a wine bargain or something that would be better sprinkled on your chips? Luckily, Italy has its own system for classifying wine quality. Bring along this (not very) serious guide and you will never have to worry again…

DOCG – Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita

This classification denotes the highest quality recognition for Italian wines, and only a few achieve this status. To be sipped seriously without the use of a straw and served on very special occasions such as marriage proposals and honeymoons, or sampled freely and without discretion at wine tastings.

DOC wine – Denominazione di Origine Controllata

Good stuff. Wine that has passed a strict set of tests to ensure its provenance and to ensure that the region’s produce remains distinct. Probably one to buy for a first date or a business lunch, ensuring that the label can be seen at all times.

IGT – Indicazione di Geografica Tipica

General wines that are suitable for the table. These wines are often grown in specific geographical growing regions but without the strict controls of DOC wines. Tend to be of a lesser quality, but excellent DOC wines fall under this to avoid the paperwork for DOC status.  (It’s worth tasting them all to check.) Works well if drunk as a second bottle and/or third.

VdT - Vino Da Tavola

This signifies wines that have met no other criteria than that they were produced somewhere in Italy. Fine in an emergency, but most suitable for buying as a present to take home to relatives or colleagues that you don’t like very much.

And if all that sounds like too much hard work, ask for the house wine, or “vino sfuso,” which costs hardly anything (you should pay around €4 for half a liter) and goes down like a treat. The best advice is just to try as many as you can!

Cheers!

Popularity: 2% [?]

A villa in Tuscany. Photo by Nika.

By Pete Meyers—

A few years ago my wife and I pulled a daredevil stunt: We rented a 1,100 year old villa in Tuscany and invited both sides of our families to join us for a week-long vacation.

Now, before you ask “what were you thinking?” or say “that doesn’t sound particularly Cheapo, Pete,” let me explain further.

Yes, the villa we rented was admittedly off-the-charts decadent. It had seven large bedrooms, five bathrooms, a kitchen nearly as large as my current apartment, a billiard room, a dining room, a massive living room area, an in-ground pool whose gorgeousness was eclipsed only by its vineyard view, and—somewhat inexplicably—a separate, small chapel on the grounds. And just to round it off, there were also large stone lion statues adjacent to the front doors, greeting us upon our return from schlepping around the countryside.

But did we mention the entire week-long stay cost each person roughly $70 per night? Sure, you can beat the pants off that price at a number of our Editor’s Picks in Florence (while actually being in Florence rather than a 45-minute drive outside) but for everything that the villa had to offer, we felt the price was reasonable. And for the sheer experience of the endeavor we were willing to shell out a few extra euros.

But looking back on our trip, there are a number of tips and recommendations that would have been helpful to know when we were planning our stay. Here are some things to consider when renting a villa in Tuscany:

1. Prepare to “hub” it.

If you’re planning to explore a particular region - rather than just one specific city - renting a villa makes sense. Our villa was located near the village of Traversa, making it easy to “hub it” and visit Florence, Pisa, Siena, Cinque Terre, Bologna, and even Venice during our trip. Which brings us to our next tip…

2. Get ready to drive.

Rent a car and plan on driving it a lot. This might seem obvious to most, but prior to our trip we didn’t really consider how frequently we’d be driving around the region. Fortunately we had several eager drivers among us who were particularly adept with manual transmissions. Otherwise, we likely wouldn’t have strayed too far from our residence. Which, again, brings us to our next tip…

3. Get cooking.

While most villa rental agencies offer decadent, home-cooked meals on the premises at an extra cost, part of what made our experience so special was handling all meals ourselves (plus it saved a whole lot of money). There was never any shortage of ingredients at local markets for our nightly dinners and we found that a large part of our daily routine revolved around dinner planning. And we loved it.

4. Get ready for some family time.

For our group, part of what made renting a villa so special was traveling as a big family. Sure, we experienced our fair share of “I think it’s your turn to do the dishes” moments, but we still frequently reflect and laugh about our hysterical experience of sleeping in the Tuscan castle.

When renting a villa in Tuscany might not make sense

1. You don’t like your in-laws. Just kidding. Promise.

2. You don’t like driving through twisty, turny, slightly nerve-wracking roads. If this is the case, you might be better off staying in a city rather than in the winding hills.

3. When the math doesn’t work out. Budget wisely and consider all the incidental expenses of renting a villa. While the per person price of accommodation itself can be similar to that of  2 and 3-star hotels, you’ll also pay for food, car rentals, gas, electricity, a cleaning fee, and any other incidentals that spring up.

Websites that specialize in renting villas in Tuscany and elsewhere

There are many helpful websites that provide reservation services for villa rental throughout Europe. Most offer large format, high quality photos that should stir up your excitement. Here are a few that we recommend checking out:

Parker Villas - Specializes in villas through Italy. Parker Villas was one of the first villa rental agencies we discovered when we started our search.

Tuscany Now - Large listing of villas for rent in Tuscany, Umbria, Lazio, Sicily, and other regions in Italy.

VRBO - While not technically a villa reservation agency, VRBO does feature many properties in Tuscany and beyond, plus the rates tend to be a bit more reasonable.

Cuendet - Offers villas in Croatia, Italy, France, and Spain (and was the website we used when booking ours).

Tell us: Have you ever rented a villa in Italy or elsewhere? Share your experience with other Cheapos by leaving a comment below.

Popularity: 2% [?]

Is that in Airplane Mode? Photo by Jorge Quinteros.

By Tom Meyers—

If you’re an American iPhone user getting ready to take a trip to Europe, you’ve likely been warned about using your iPhone abroad. After all, AT&T’s rates for international data use can be confusing, and misunderstanding your usage or iPhone setup could be a very costly mistake.

I just returned from two weeks in Europe, one spent in Paris and one in Venice. This was a work trip, during which I visited about 90 hotels for EuroCheapo. I brought along my laptop, but what to do with my iPhone? Was there an economical way to use it in France and Italy? Should I pay for one of the international data packages offered by AT&T? Should I just leave the thing in New York?

When taking a pleasure trip, I usually turn off my phone before blast-off and leave it off until I return to JFK. (This has become increasingly inconvenient, however, in recent years as connecting with friends abroad is obviously aided by sending text messages. Those, however, don’t always work with American cell phones and require international roaming, which puts you at risk of receiving phone calls from home — which will cost you.)

In any case, I realized that my iPhone could be handy. It’s nice to stay on top of emails, download the latest news from the New York Times, and be on my way. But how to do it without going broke?

Advice from AT&T

AT&T, the exclusive US carrier for the iPhone, offers a number of international phone and data packages for Americans taking their phones abroad. The day before take-off, I called and spoke to a customer service representative about my options.

Two weeks later I’m still “processing” that conversation. Let’s just say there are a lot of variables at play, including whether or not you expect to use your iPhone abroad to a) place international phone calls, b) receive international phone calls, c) send and receive emails, d) browse the web, and e) use iPhone applications. Each of these points carries its own possible traps and, of course, AT&T offers a “package” to address each issue.

Just want to make calls on your iPhone from abroad?

If you plan to use your phone to make and receive calls, you can opt for the AT&T World Traveler feature (currently $5.99 month), which gives you a discounted price for making and receiving calls. Using this feature, placing or receiving a call from France and Italy would drop from $1.29 to $.99 per minute. Not exactly cheap.

Don’t forget that receiving a call will also cost you – even if you don’t answer it. If the call connects to your phone, it’s billable.

Important: If you choose to only make and receive calls abroad, don’t forget to deactivate your data roaming. But we’ll get to that…

Sending and receiving emails and browsing the Web from abroad

For sending and receiving emails, browsing the web, and using applications, AT&T advises you to purchase an international data roaming package. Stay with me here. These packages are available in four sizes, from 20 MB of international data transfer (for $24.99) to 200 MB of international data transfer (for $199). (Prices current as of March 2010.)

So, say you go with the $24.99 package. What exactly does that mean? How many emails can you send and receive with 20 MB of “data transfer”? How many web pages can you browse? Which applications can you use? That, of course, depends…

Hence, my headache. I had read horror stories of travelers buying a data package only to find that they surpassed it early in their trip by opening some “heavy” email messages or browsing image-rich websites.

AT&T’s tips for avoiding a billing “surprise”

In AT&T’s customer service center, the carrier offers tips for avoiding these sorts of surprise. The tips, which are quite helpful, include:

1) Turn off data roaming.

You’ll find this under Settings > General > Network > Data Roaming. (To make it easy, the iPhone even says “Turn data roaming off when abroad to avoid substantial roaming charges when using email, web browsing, and other data services.) If you’re using your iPhone to simply make and receive phone calls, make sure you do this.

2) Turn fetch data “Off”.

This prevents your iPhone from automatically checking for emails. To access this, go to Setting > Mail, Contacts, Calendars > Fetch New Data. Switch “Push” to “Off” and click “Manually”. Once switched, you’ll have to manually tell your phone to send and receive emails.

3) Consider purchasing an international data package.

As I mentioned above, AT&T offers four data packages, ranging from $29.99 to $199. If you are planning, at any point during your trip, to use a data network to access the web or use emails, you are strongly advised to get some sort of plan. 

4) Reset the usage tracker to zero.

This is interesting. Under Settings > Usage, you can see how many MB of data you’ve sent and received since you last reset the statistics. Theoretically, then, you could reset your statistics, and then track your subsequent bandwidth – perfect for those who have purchased an international bandwidth plan, right?

The only hiccup with this, unfortunately, is that the stats aren’t always up-to-date. It turns out that AT&T can have substantial delays in reporting international data usage (as international carriers are actually providing you with the network and then, later, reporting it back to AT&T). This means, well, that you certainly can’t rely on this metric for tracking your use in real-time.

5) Switch to Wi-Fi instead of data networks.

Bingo.

Airplane is my answer

Having discussed the options to the point of delirium, I basically threw in the towel and chose the most extreme option. Unfortunately, I had this sneaking suspicion that even with an international roaming package in place, I’d carelessly open an email with a dozen photos of my cats and wind up with a $4,000 phone bill.

Thus, frustrated and paranoid, I opted for “Airplane Mode.”

Airplane Mode blocks phone and data networks from going into and out of your iPhone. Wi-Fi networks, however, are accessible. It basically turns your iPhone into an iPod Touch. Airplane Mode is accessible under Settings > Airplane Mode.

Flying solo

The decision to use my iPhone for two weeks in Airplane Mode meant, of course, that to send and receive emails I needed to access a free Wi-Fi network. It also meant that I wouldn’t be able to send and receive text messages or make phone calls. In a separate post, I’ll explain how I went about finding free Wi-Fi networks in Paris and Venice.

Of course, my simple “Airplane Mode” solution won’t work for everyone. Some travelers will obviously need to use their phones to send and receive calls and texts. Others will need predictable email and web service. For these users, I’d suggest calling AT&T, adding some international services, turning off “fetch,” and still using “airplane mode” whenever possible.

However, for Cheapos like me who simply need an occasional connection, consider flying on “Airplane Mode” during your trip. You’ll relax about charges and still have basic services.

Tell us: Have you taken your iPhone abroad? Do you have any tips for avoiding surprise charges? Do you think I’m a big wimp for relying on Airplane Mode for two weeks? Tell us about your experience in the comments section.

Popularity: 5% [?]

A Vaporetto pulling into station. Photo: Tom Meyers

By Monica Cesarato in Venice—

Transportation around Venice can be very expensive—and I’m not even talking about using water taxis, which have a pricing system (yikes!) of their own. I am talking about “public transportation,” which in Venice mostly means taking the “vaporetti” (water bus) up and down the Grand Canal.

A single trip on a vaporetto costs €6.50, whether you take the boat for one stop or for a whole Grand Canal tour. Fortunately, however, there is a system designed for tourists that will help you save some serious money.

Tourist Travel Cards

In the last few years ACTV (Venice’s bus and boat system) realized that they had to come up with a tourist transportation card, so they created seven different types of “tourist travel cards,” each valid for a different period of time.

Travel cards are available for 12 hours (€16), 24 hours (€18), 36 hours (€23), 48 hours (€28), 72 hours (€33), three-day youth card (for people between 18-29 years old - €18), and seven-day cards (€50). (Prices are accurate as of March 2010. Visit the ACTV website for current prices.)

With these travel cards you can hop on and off any vaporetto (including those to the islands of Murano, Burano, and Torcello) and on all buses travelling within the city of Venice (including to Mestre and Marco Polo Airport). These cards eliminate the need to queue every time to buy a ticket and to carry change with you.

The tickets are not exactly cheap, but considering you have unlimited use of the transport system, they are well worth it. Just think how much it would cost you if you wanted to visit Murano-Burano and Torcello and you had to pay for each single trip.

Where to buy Tourist transportation tickets

You can buy these transport passes at any vaporetto stop (there are usually ticket offices at the stops, otherwise you can buy on board and the almost always speaks English), in Piazzale Roma (in the ACTV ticket office), or in any tobacco shop that displays the “ACTV” sign.

Tip: Combine transportation and museums in one pass

In 2009, the Comune di Venezia introduced a combined card for transport and museums that can save you up to 25% on a variety of museum passes. The savings varies depending on the period (low season, high season, special events, etc.).

Unfortunately, the card can only be purchased online and must be purchased more than two days before your arrival date in Venice. So the earlier you book it, the greater the saving. For more information and to buy a card, visit http://www.veniceconnected.com.

About the author: Monica Cesarato runs her own B&B on the Riviera del Brenta, just outside Venice. She also blogs about life in Venice and the Italian lifestyle http://www.monicacesarato.com.

Popularity: 3% [?]

Hadrian's Wall, near Salotto 42. Photos by Samantha Collins.

By Samantha Collins in Rome—

Fancy something different with your glass of wine during your stay in Rome? Try one of these three centrally located bars which all come with a little something extra to taste alongside your drink—whether your interest is cheese, books, or motorbikes….

Obika Roma Mozzarella Bar
Open from 10 AM to midnight
Piazza di Firenze (not far from Via del Corso)
Angolo Via dei Prefetti
website

What else to go along with your drink but a hunk of freshly made mozzarella? Giving a whole new slant on the “wine and cheese party” of the 70s, Obika is sleek and modern, serving a range of regional mozzarella cheeses including the famous DOP Buffalo Mozzarella produced in the Campania region by water buffalo. Obika also serves salads, snacks, and pasta and has a good selection of wines and coffee.

Outside Bar Salotto 42

Salotto42 Book Bar
Piazza di Pietra 42 (not far from Via del Corso)
website

Overlooking Hadrian’s Temple, this Roman book bar is styled on a New York penthouse. In fact, “salotto” means “living room” in Italian, and its decor of cozy settees, low slung coffee tables, CDs and magazines filling the walls (available to buy), encourages you to linger with a book, a glass of wine, or a pot of tea. €6 will get you a drink and aperitivo (and you can help yourself to a finger buffet) from around 7:30 PM.

Ducati Caffe’
Open 8 AM – 2 AM
Via delle Botteghe Oscure 35 (Largo Argentina)
website

This new bar is dedicated to the much loved Italian biking brand, Ducati. Displays of Ducati-related memorabilia, including motorbikes and a merchandise shop, are worth a look for anyone with a love of bikes and GP motocross. The bar also serves food, but it’s not the cheapest menu in the center. Better to enjoy a coffee and pastry or come in the evening, when you can find live music or cooking demonstrations. Check the website for the events calendar.

Popularity: 2% [?]

Piazza San Marco, February 25, 2010. Photos by Tom Meyers.

By Tom Meyers in Venice—

February 26, 2010: I awoke this morning at 5:55 to the sound of an alarm. It wasn’t my travel alarm clock, however. It was more of a siren, it was moving in the street, and it was loud. Once I remembered that I was in a hotel in Venice, all worries were cast aside. This could only be one thing: The flooding had begun!

Although excited (a bit like a child on Christmas morning), I had no difficulty falling back asleep, lulled by the steady rainfall. At 9 AM, when I went downstairs to breakfast, I headed straight to the hotel’s front door to check out the scene. Sure enough, the water had come, turning my street, the Calle de Botteghe, into a stream.

A metal water guard.

My hotel is the charming, 10-room Locanda Art Deco just off Campo Santo Stefano, in Venice’s San Marco district. Last night before heading to bed, the receptionist had warned me about the water’s expected arrival. “It should start in the morning and peak at 10 AM, when it hits 1.15 meters [above the water table],” he explained. They really have this down to a science.

I’ve been in Venice all week, visiting about 50 hotels for our Venice guide, updating reviews and scouting out new picks. In between rooms, I’ve had a chance to talk water with the hotel owners. Yesterday, one owner showed me a text message she received during the day warning her of today’s expected flooding. They’re high-tech!

The water hits the city unevenly, depending on elevation. The Piazza San Marco is one of the lowest points in the city, and is thus constantly flooded. I took the photo at the top of this post yesterday in the piazza, while hardly any other streets were flooded. Note the pedestrian walkways the city constructs to help tourists cross the most heavily-trafficked areas.

This morning, I approached the hotel’s front door to find a metal guard secured in the doorway, locked against the front of the building to keep the stream at bay.

The Calle de Botteghe, this morning.

The morning receptionist explained that, in fact, the water wasn’t as bad as expected. “They told us to expect 1.15, but it turns out it will only be 1.05,” she told me, with a bit of a smile and a shrug. That’s nothing, in fact. If it goes over 1.2 meters, the water will enter the hotel’s lobby, forcing them to move all of the furniture (and there’s quite a bit!) up a staircase to the second landing.

Meanwhile, outside on the Calle de Botthege, Venetians sloshed by in their rubber boots, unfazed. A delivery man pushed a cart past the hotel stacked with boxes headed for the wine shop next door. Life goes on.

The water is set to peak at 10 AM (which is, by the way, right now as I write this in my room), and then subside over the next hour. The rain stopped about two hours ago, but it will take that long for Venice’s drainage system to do its work.

As for the city’s tourists, you either stay put and wait, or shove off. A British couple sitting at the breakfast table next to me decided to go for it. With the rest of us watching from our tables, they stood a bit apprehensively at the door, behind the metal guard, “Lonely Planet” in hand, sporting their heaviest shoes (decidedly not rubber boots). And then they took the plunge. The water went up over their feet, and they pushed off down the street.

As for me, I’ll give it a few minutes to drain before I set sail. But alas, the rain just picked up again.

Hmmm. Which pair of shoes do you think…

Popularity: 3% [?]

A bus in Florence. Photo by waxorian.

By Laura Mongillo in Florence—

Florence is a small and very walkable city, but that doesn’t mean you’ll never need a break from treading the cobblestone streets. Thus, visitors to Florence will benefit from understanding the city’s bus network.

Here’s a warning: it’s not easy, but it can be done. It’s always tempting to take the hop-on hop-off tourist buses, but if you don’t feel like shelling out €20, you should learn to travel like the locals.

The basics

The bus lines in Florence are pretty complicated, and they often change due to roadwork. The easiest thing to do is to pick up a bus map or ask the driver where the bus goes. However, it’s always best to plan out a bus trip beforehand so as not to get lost, as most buses continue outside of the city center. Route information can be found on the Florence bus Web site.

To catch a ride with the bus, you must first flag it down, as the driver only stops upon request. To get off at your stop, press the buttons on the railings or against the wall.

Tickets: Where (and why) to buy

Tickets cost €1.20 and are valid for 90 minutes. If you’re planning on taking the bus often, it’s more convenient to buy a Carta Agile for €10. The Carta Agile is an electronic ticket good for 12 journeys. You can buy one at any “tabaccheria” (tobacco store), which is marked by a large “T” over the door.  In a pinch, you can also buy a ticket from the bus driver at the higher price of €2.

In Florence, bus tickets work on the honor system: there is a machine inside where you either time-stamp your ticket or swipe your Carta Agile over the sensor to validate it.

It is all too easy to ride without a ticket, but I would greatly advise against this. Tickets are being controlled more often and the ticket controllers don’t fall for the dumb/cute foreigner bit. You will leave with a minimum €50 fine, paid on site.

Popular routes

If you’re touring central Florence and can’t stand to walk one more bit, there are small electric buses that service the city center on weekdays. The buses A, B, C, and D stop in main tourist areas such as Piazza San Marco, Santa Croce, Piazza Repubblica, and the Ponte Vecchio.

If the weather is nice, try taking Bus 17 from San Marco or the train station out to the Cascine, the Central Park of Florence. You’ll find long green lawns, tree-lined promenades, and plenty of kids playing soccer. It’s a great way to get some fresh air and lovely views of the river.

A few main attractions in Florence aren’t easily reachable on foot. Among these are the Piazzale Michelangelo, a large square offering lovely, panoramic views of the city, and the gorgeous church of San Miniato just up the hill. To get there you can take either the 12 or 13 bus from the Santa Maria Novella train station. The trip takes about 30 minutes, but the views are well worth it.

And don’t forget the hilltop town of Fiesole which you can reach by taking Bus 7 to its final stop. (See our earlier post about day trips to Fiesole.)

Popularity: 3% [?]

A bus in Rome. Photo by Samantha Collins.

By Samantha Collins in Rome—

One of the things about Rome that never fails to impress me is the value for money offered by the public transport system. While locals complain about the limited metro system (only two lines at present) and the endless strikes, you cannot help but be impressed at the simplicity of the “one ticket fits all” approach.

The metrebus ticket and the one-day pass

The “metrebus” (metro-train-bus) €1 ticket permits you to ride on the bus, tram, or local train for any distance. (The ticket is also good for one trip on the metro underground line.) The journey is only limited by time: the ticket expires after 75 minutes.

Upgrading to a €4 ticket allows you to enjoy unlimited rides until midnight. Routes are clearly marked, so get a public transport map from one of the many newspaper kiosks, study the routes, get your elbows ready, and hop on board to see where you end up…

The Metro

There are two metro lines, Linea A (the well-kept “tourist” red line) and Linea B (the commuter line which is a little rough around the edges). The city is trying to open a third line, but progress is slow, as workers keep unearthing archaeological treasures.

Linea A highlights include the Spanish Steps (Spagna), the Trevi Fountain (Barberini), the Teatro del Opera (Repubblica) and the Vatican (Ottiviano). Linea B takes you to Circus Massimus (Circo Massimo) and the Colosseum (Colosseo).

For stops a little off the tourist map, exit at EUR Palasport and emerge near a park with a boating lake where you can spend a nice afternoon relaxing away from the city center chaos. View a metro map here.

The Bus

An endless stream of buses travels through the city center, with the main connection points being Termini Station, Largo Argentina, Piazza Venezia, and Piazza Cavour. The bus system also offers regular service to the main sights, such as the Vatican and the Colosseum.

The stops are clearly posted and signs give detailed information about each service. Regular buses stop around midnight, but a night service runs until around 5-6 AM.

Try exploring beyond the center. For example, the 118 from Piramide will take you out to Appia Antica, providing a Cheapo alternative to the expensive tourist bus service that runs there.

The Train

The “metrebus” ticket also includes the use of the local train services. Head to Piramide and catch the connecting Lido train to enjoy a day at the beach in Ostia (30 minutes away) or to explore the ancient ruins at Ostia Antica (25 minutes).

If you’re catching a flight at Ciampino, you can also travel from Termini to the airport on your €1 ticket, a journey of 15 minutes, and then just pay another €1 to take the airport shuttle bus. The express service to Fiumicino Airport is not covered by the “metrebus” ticket.

Buying a ticket

You can buy “metrebus” tickets from newspaper kiosks, ticket kiosks, and at machines found in the metro stations. You can sometimes buy them on the bus from a machine, though not always.

You must always stamp the ticket at one of the yellow machines to validate your ticket and begin the 75-minute time limit (on the bus, on the tram, or close to the platform for trains) unless you use the metro, in which case it is done automatically when you go through the barrier. Make sure you do this, because if the inspectors catch you with an unstamped ticket, you will be fined—even if you are a tourist and claim ignorance.

Tips for using the system—safely

Avoid using the metro between 7:30-9 AM and 5-6:30 PM, as it is very packed with commuters and you may find yourself far closer to the locals than you ever expected. If you travel around rush hour, keep an eye out, as crowded metro and bus stations are havens for pickpockets and beggars.

Carry €1 coins with you, especially if catching the metro at night, as the change machines do not work and the kiosks will be closed.

To find routes online, visit the official Rome transportation site.

Popularity: 3% [?]

Outside the Santa Margherita dei Cerchi. Photos by Laura Mongillo.

By Laura Mongillo in Florence—

Florence, along with the rest of Italy, is famous for its churches. Upon arriving in Florence, most tourists head to the Duomo for its giant brick dome, the Santa Maria Novella for its artwork, and Santa Croce for its crypt.

While these churches are the most well-known in Florence, they are certainly not the only ones—and in my opinion, not the most interesting ones. While the Duomo has free entrance, the inside is relatively sparse. Santa Maria Novella and Santa Croce are definitely worth a visit, but both require paid entry.

So, try to take a step away from the guidebook and visit these three interesting and peculiar (and admission-free) churches that you’ll find tucked away where you’d least expect them.

The Chiesa dei Santi Michele e Gaetano.

Chiesa dei Santi Michele e Gaetano
Piazza Antinori, Via Tornabuoni

While gazing longingly into the windows of the Hermès store, you might not notice this behemoth looming behind you. The Chiesa dei Santi Michele e Gaetano, also known as San Michele degli Antinori, is a large, dark church of the Baroque style—one of the few Baroque churches in Florence.

Aside from its size and serious exterior, what I find particularly fascinating about this church is its opening hours. You will often find it open late in the evening, around 8 or 9 PM. Feel free to wander in and gaze at the interesting examples of 17th-century artwork so often ignored in the city.

Santa Margherita dei Cerchi
Via Santa Margherita, off of Via del Corso

From the winding, bustling Via del Corso, take a right onto a side street and you’ll find yourself in front of a small brick building that, aside from the signs, would not be easily identified as a church.

This miniscule church (pictured at top), while lacking in decoration, is rich with history. For anyone that’s heard of Dante’s famous love for Beatrice, this is reportedly the small church in which they met. As the story goes, Dante fell madly in love with the beautiful, nine-year-old Beatrice upon seeing her at mass one morning.

Inside the church, you will find a tomb supposedly belonging to Beatrice. Take a look at the basket placed nearby, as it’s filled with letters and notes addressed to Beatrice by visitors and students from around the world in appreciation of the work her beauty inspired.

Inside the Chiesa di Santi Apostoli.

Chiesa di Santi Apostoli
Piazza del Limbo

On the picturesque Piazza del Limbo, you’ll find one of Florence’s old bath houses, a fancy oil shop, a luxurious hotel, and also this small, well-maintained medieval church.

If you have one euro, use it to turn on the lights to see better. You will find a small, simple layout with exquisite carved and painted wooden beams, paintings from various time periods, and—my personal favorite—a brightly colored ceramic piece made by the Della Robbia family.

About the author: Laura Mongillo holds an Undergraduate and Masters degree in Italian Studies from NYU and has been living in Florence, Italy for three years.

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The fountain in St. Peter's Square. Photo by xiquinhosilva.

By Samantha Collins in Rome—

A visit to Rome is not complete without seeing the Vatican. With its world-famous St. Peter’s Square, imposing dome, rather nice painted chapel ceiling, and fairly well-known resident, it has plenty of attractions. But with so much to see, where should you start?

1. St. Peter’s Square

This vast space is famous for being the home of Papal Addresses (and for being integral to the plot of Dan Brown’s “Angels and Demons“). It can accommodate up to 300,000 people, a number that puts the World Series Final crowd to shame.

Designed by Borromini so that the maximum number of people could see the Pope at any one time (before the days of plasma screens), its elliptical shape is dominated by the Basilica. Stand on the stone discs between the fountains and the Egyptian obelisk to see the rows of columns magically line up.

2. The Basilica

It is hard to put into words the immense size of this building. Look out for the dimensions of the world’s other large churches marked on the floor to give you a sense of its scale. The Basilica is free to enter, and highlights include Michelangelo’s Pieta (now sadly behind glass after it was attacked and damaged), Borromini’s vast altar canopy (the Baldacchino) made using bronze taken from the Pantheon roof, and the 13th-century statue of St. Peter Enthroned. Join the queue to kiss his foot for luck.

3. St. Peter’s Dome

For the best views of Rome, pick a clear day, get there early to avoid the queues, and prepare to make the climb up the 320 steps to the top of St. Peter’s Dome. You can take the lift for the first part, but a long climb still awaits you with a mix of spiral, steep, and strange slopes, taking you up to the viewing point where staggering views stretch out before you on every side.

It will cost you €4 to make the climb (or €7 if you use the lift at the start). Get your tickets at the office just next to the Basilica entrance, clearly marked after you have passed through security checks.

4. The Vatican Museums

The endless rooms filled with Vatican treasures are a great way to spend a few hours. The highlight has to be the Sistine Chapel (which, contrary to popular belief, is not in the Basilica), which you have to pay to see. While everyone knows about the famous ceiling by Michelangelo, look out also for his huge mural depicting the “Last Judgment” and Botticelli’s “Story of Moses“.

Also make time to see the Raphael Rooms, Caravaggio’s “Deposition,” and the Borgia Apartments. The entrance fee is usually €15, though if you visit the last Sunday of the month, it’s free (though you need to get there at around 7 AM to avoid the queue which extends to many hundreds of people).

5. The Necropolis

A little-known tour of the Necropolis takes you under the Basilica to the hidden city below. Excavated in the 1930s, the ancient streets are lined with tombs that are almost untouched by time. The highlight has to be seeing the alleged site of St. Peter’s tomb and looking up to see the dome towering about you through the floor grates. You need to book the tour around four weeks in advance by emailing the excavations office. Tours cost €12.

Top tips for visiting the Vatican

· Whether you are visiting the Basilica, the Dome, or the Museums, get there early to avoid long lines.

· In the Vatican Museums, head for the Sistine Chapel first, as the tour groups head there last.

· Cover shoulders and do not wear shorts.

· The queue in the piazza is for the security checks. Once through, keep left for the Basilica. The queue is for the Dome.

· Unless you want a plastic model of the Vatican that lights up and plays “Ava Maria,” or even a “Pope on a Rope” soap, avoid the tacky souvenir sellers.

· Do not buy a coffee or lunch within 1,000 meters of the Vatican unless you want to pay prices that will bring you to your knees.

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