Photo courtesy of hidden europe magazine

Cheapos clearly like to get under the skin of a city, probing well beyond the regular sights to get a feel for what makes a community tick. Faith is often still part of the fabric of European life, but getting a feel for it as a foreigner isn’t always easy – unless you happen to be a churchgoer.

Churches of all denominations (and mosques and synagogues, too) usually welcome casual visitors to their services, provided that the stranger dresses appropriately, adopts a reverent demeanour, and does not attempt to take photographs during services.

Get thee to Church

York Minster for Evensong is a very different place from the echo-filled space around which tourists wander during the day. The Minster is transformed into something altogether more meaningful. Similarly Vespers in St Mark’s in Venice will leave you in awe of the space for which Monteverdi wrote such evocative music in a way that you’ll simply miss if you shuffle round with the tourist crowds. The interior of the newly restored Frauenkirche in Dresden seems, with its strange mix of pastel shades, like a tribute to poor taste during the day when tourists traipse through the place; attend a service and the space assumes a different meaning and is altogether more pleasing.

Whether it be at a grand cathedral like Chartres or Milan, or in a humble parish church in a small village in the Alps, Mass on a Sunday morning will only take an hour out of your day. This sedentary hour may give some quiet insights into local life. Take in a service at a Methodist chapel in Wales for a good glimpse into Welsh life. What is modern Poland without Catholicism? And in hundreds of communities across Russia, devotional zeal knows no bounds. A visit to an Orthodox service for the Divine Liturgy on a Sunday is a chance to witness some fine liturgical theatre that offers rich insights into life in Russia.

Take in a service and you’ll save on a few admission fees into the bargain. No church has yet had the temerity to charge those who come to pray!

This is the latest in a summer series of postings by Nicky Gardner and Susanne Kries. The Berlin-based duo are the editors of hidden europe magazine, a publication that explores the patchwork quilt of cultures that make up modern Europe.

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As befits a city of canals, Venice has a variety of cruising aptitudes. While a trip aboard a traditional Venetian gondola will empty your wallet faster than you can say, “Ciao bello!”, other watercrafts cost much less. Here, how to find the Cheapo ways to float your boat!

For everyday exploring:

A 60-minute or 12-hour tour-

Water buses (vaporetti in Italian) are the cheapest and most traditional mode of transportation in Venice. Locals cruise to and from work and home using the vaporetti’s extensive reach. If you plan on covering a lot of ground and seeing many attractions in a short period of time, consider hopping on this boat. Tickets are relatively cheap. A 60-minute ticket, that allows you to travel on most lines, costs €6.50. A 12-hour card, with unlimited travel, is €14. Visit the ACTV’s web site (Venice’s transportation authority) for more info.

Three days on a discount-

The ACTV offers a number of discounts for carriers of the Venice Card. The ACTV’s Youth Card (for ages 14 to 29), costs €18 and is good for three days of unlimited vaporetti travel. Check out the Venice Card web site for more information.

A Venetian dream on a budget:

We’ve said it before and we’ll say it again: gondolas are as pricey as they are romantic. They’re not so much a means of transportation as an expensive, if lovely, tour of the city’s most charming views. Expect to pay upwards of €80 for a 45-minute ride. 

So what’s a Cheapo to do? Step into one of the gondola ferries, or “traghetti,” as they are called in Venice, the bare-bones alternative to the lavish gondola ride. Thankfully, the experience is no less authentic; for a mere €.50, you’ll sail along with the locals in a thin, canoe-shaped boat. Look for the yellow “traghetto” signs that mark docking and sailing off points.

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Let’s face it: We’re already big fans of European public transportation. But when a bus or tram offers a freebie historical tour of a city, we’re downright nutsy about it. Next stop, Rome!

In Rome, one of the best ways to get around the city (especially if you’re tired of walking) is to get on the bus. And, we don’t mean one of those open-air tourist traps. There are many everyday city buses that will take you past historic relics, major attractions, and lesser known sights in Rome, but our favorite bus is the #40 city bus.

Touring Rome by #40

The #40 bus is the express version of the uber-crowded city bus #64. If you take it from its starting point at Termini Station (normally leaving every five minutes), you’ll eventually end up at the Vatican. But, along the way, you’ll tour the historic city center, passing by the Forum before heading onto Piazza Venezia, Largo Argentina (where you can find the remains of Pompey’s temple and columns that date to 80 A.D.) before finally crossing the Tiber. Here, you’ll get a great view of Castel Sant’Angelo, the site of the first tomb of the Emperor Hadrian. Make sure you gaze left to check out Bernini’s Bridge of the Angels. Finalemente, you’ll pull up to Vatican City.

Get your ticket and get on board

A ticket costs you €1 and can be used for up to 75 minutes, including transfers and unlimited hop-on-hop-off action. Traffic can be wild, so find a seat if you can, and get comfortable. Just remember, in Rome, you always board the bus via the front or back doors, but you exit via the middle door.

For more information about getting around Rome by bus or metro, read our article on Getting around Rome.

One safety note: Beware of pickpockets and strange, sudden commotions (distraction anyone?). If you keep your wallets and passports close, you should have no trouble enjoying the—nearly—free ride.

Vatican bonus: Visit St. Peter’s Basilica for free once you get dropped off in Vatican City.

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Venice, city of gondolas and canals, can get expensive. Thankfully, however, it need not break your budget. Here are five free things to do in Venice: 

Hang out in Piazza San Marco.

While we don’t recommend Cheapos splurge for the touristy restaurants and cafés lining San Marco’s square, we do think that parking yourself just outside the Basilica to people-watch is one of the best free things to do in Venice. Head inside to the Basilica (open from March to October, Monday through Friday from 9:45 a.m. to 4:45 p.m. and on Sundays from 2-4:45 p.m.; from April to September, Monday through Friday from 9:45 a.m. to 5 p.m. and Sundays from 2-5 p.m.), and take in 10th-Century relics for just €1.50. Snap a few photos. Just don’t feed the pigeons. These days, that pasttime is off-limits.  

Cross the Ponte di Rialto.

The Rialto Bridge could be the most famous bridge in Italy (we hear you grumbling, Florence!). It also affords one of the best canal views in the city, and is a perfect starting point for travelers ready to lose themselves in Venice. Spend some time wandering through the well-known Rialto Market—which is closeby—and where fishmongers, and fruit and vegetable dealers convene daily (from early morning until nearly 11 p.m.). Browse the wares for free or haggle with a seller.

Take in a free concert.

Unfortunately, in Venice, free concerts and expositions are not widely promoted. Check for flyers in cafes and bars or look for posters hanging outside churches and museums. During culture week in May, many museums also host free events and exhibits.  For free concert listings in Italian, visit the “Music in Venice” site.

Or, check out the official site for Venice’s Suona festival (scheduled for July 6th this year), a day-long city-wide event, coinciding with the European Fete de la Musique, in which all of Venice’s squares host free concerts. Also, try the tourist center next to St. Mark’s Square, where they often have “what’s on” flyers and pamphlets.

Go to church.

Venice is packed with churches and many of them are free and open to the public daily. After you’ve seen the majestic San Marco’s Basilica, check out two of our other favorites: Santa Maria della Salute, a gorgeous, picturesque church dedicated to the Madonna, which frequently hosts free concerts, especially during the months of January and February. Next, visit the 13th-Century Gothic church of S.S. Giovanni e Paolo. Here, make sure you check out Paolo Veronese’s ceiling frescoes.

Get lost!

Hey, in Venice it’s cheap—and easy!—to get lost. Wander the cobblestone streets, absent of motorized vehicles, and traverse bridges, meander the canals, and get a real sense for the city’s 15th-Century layout. Losing yourself in the architecture of the city is one of the best ways to see the real Venice and to experience it as it was meant for travelers. In any case, try as you might, you won’t be able to avoid getting lost during your trip to Venice. You might as well make it “part of the plan.”

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Author, reporter, and NPR correspondent Scott Huler recently returned from an epic journey tracing the tale of Homer’s “Odyssey.” After reading “No-Man’s Lands,” his insightful recounting of the trip, we asked him for advice on planning a similar journey—on a budget.

Scott had some great advice:

When Odysseus set off on an epic voyage, he had some non-cheapo advantages: his ships were filled with treasure from the Trojan War, and if supplies ran low it was perfectly reasonable to come ashore and make a brief pirate raid on a coastal town.

That wasn’t going to work for me. When I set out to retrace his journey from Troy to Ithaca, I had little more than a backpack, a tight budget, and a pregnant wife at home. Just the same, I found the cheaper-than-cheap backpack route from Troy to Ithaca perfect for me. I had more than a dozen stops to make. Add to that Athens and the tiny Turkish town of Kesan, and my journey covered around 20 cities in Turkey, Greece, Tunisia, Italy (where I visited the catacombs in Rome), France, and Malta. Finally, I arrived on the western tip of Sicily.

Here are five things you should know if you ever make an epic journey on a small-scale budget:

1. Get your doner on!

In Turkey, if it’s spinning on a vertical spit, it’s probably doner, which is like Greek gyro and delicious almost beyond imagination. But beware: If it’s spinning on a horizontal spit it’s probably kokorec, which is sheep guts, and tastes like sheep guts. If you suddenly find yourself buying kokorec, just get them to put a lot of pepper on it. You can get a few bites down before you turn the corner and find a trash can. Be sure to smile and wave at the vendor. You’ll be a good story for them.

2. Use your words.

Don’t be embarrassed to take a guided tour in the language of your choice: you left home to understand people and places different from you, right? You’ll learn a lot more, and if you stick with trustworthy sources (the museum’s free audio guide rather than the guy who starts plucking at your sleeve after you walk in), you’ll pay only a reasonable fee augmented by, of course, a reasonable tip. I had a guided tour of Troy that got my journey started just right, and I might have missed some very cool stuff had I been too savvy for it all.

3. Buy cheap(er) overnight accommodation.

Here’s how. Take an overnight ferry and pay the extra euros for a room. If you’re traveling alone, pay the addition for a single. Defending territory on couches in saloon bars or hunkering down in chilly winds on deck sounds romantic in a post-college kind of way, but unless you’re absolutely destitute, the extra € 20 will be well worth it, turning a sleepless night into a night of almost delightful, private peace.

4. Take the bus (especially in Turkey).

Not only is the bus one of the cheapest—and greenest—modes of transport, but it’s civilized beyond measure. In Turkey, for example, where I rode the bus everywhere, there’s air conditioning, oriental rugs down the center aisle, free cakes, water, and orange soda. Plus every couple hours or so an attendant brings around a little dash of bergamot cologne. Talk about luxury for less! (Visit the main bus terminal in Istanbul to learn more or to get moving.)

5. When in Rome, stay near the train station.

In Rome, I loved the Hotel Stromboli. Tourist guides will tell you to avoid the hotels near the Stazione Termini, but I think they’re crazy. Cheap rooms abound (if you’re clever, you can get them at the Stromboli for 50 euros or so), and there are tons of paninotecas with delicious and cheap hot sandwiches that keep travelers fueled for a couple euros a pop. Plus, you’ll find plenty of nearby nasoni fountains to keep water bottles full for free and you have constant, convenient access to the train station. No place in Rome is too far to walk from there and when it’s time to head to the airport, that’s exactly where the cheap buses depart from. There are dozens of cheap, clean, and safe hotels in this unfairly maligned neighborhood. It’s where you want to be.

See EuroCheapo’s recommendations for hotels South and North of Termini Station in Rome.

About the author: Scott Huler has written for such newspapers as the New York Times, the Washington Post, the Philadelphia Inquirer, and the Los Angeles Times and such magazines as Backpacker, Fortune, and Child. His award-winning radio work has been heard on “All Things Considered” and “Day to Day” on National Public Radio and on “Marketplace” and “Splendid Table” on American Public Media. He has been a staff writer for the Philadelphia Daily News and the Raleigh News & Observer and a staff reporter and producer for Nashville Public Radio. He was the founding and managing editor of the Nashville City Paper. He sometimes serves as guest host on “The State of Things” on WUNC-FM. No-Man’s Lands is his fifth book. He lives in Raleigh, North Carolina, with his wife, the writer June Spence; they have a son and another child on the way.

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The Florence tourism office this month launched a Cheapo-friendly initiative to give Americans visiting Florence a 10% discount on hotels, restaurants, and museums in the city. The program, named the “Fiorino Effect” after the Florentine coin once used throughout Europe, is an attempt by the city to attract the attention — and business — of American tourists spooked by the weakened dollar abroad.

Launched on May 15 and continuing through December 31, 2008, the initiative offers:

10% discounts on stays in participating hotels, B&Bs, and apartment rentals. Hundreds of properties throughout the city are participating in the promotion. The tourism office has posted this complete list of hotels on their website.

10% discount on meals in participating restaurants. Click here for a complete list of restaurants, including links to their websites. 

Discounted or free admission to museums, including the Palazzo Strozzi (20% discount), Villa Bardini, Palazzo Medici (free admission), and other sights.

How to take advantage of this discount: 

1) When booking your hotel, you should notify the hotel that you are American and will be participating in the program.

2) Download the voucher from the tourism board’s website, and have the hotel validate it upon arrival in order to take advantage of discounts at restaurants and museums.

If you have already booked your hotel for Florence, download the voucher anyhow and get it validated at the main tourism office on Via Cavour (near the Duomo). You’ll still be able to get discounts at restaurants and museums, and may be able to score a discount on the hotel (if they’re nice).

More information on the program is available on the Florence tourist office’s website.

For a list of our favorite budget-friendly hotels in Florence, check out EuroCheapo Florence.

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Albergo Guerrato, pension
Calle drio la Scimia 240/a
San Polo, Venice
Doubles € 100-140 

We first fell in love with Albergo Guerrato because of its location. Just a short walk from the Rialto Bridge, it holds a coveted place in the lovely San Polo area of Venice.

But, then there was the ambiance. The Guerrato is an ex-convent, whose beginnings date to the 1200s.  Today, the owners seem to be decorating decidedly less ‘convent’ than ‘Dolce & Gabbana atelier’ —as our EC reviewer, Annie Shapero, said of her last visit.

Rooms are fit for kings, queens, and anyone with a taste for antiques. Most rooms have oriental rugs, lavish furnishings, and beautifully carved windows. When you’ve tired of the indoor ambiance, step outside where the hipster nightlife surrounding Guerrato will keep you satiated.

Read the complete review or see all budget hotel picks in Venice.

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During his time in Rome, Michelangelo charged the ancient city with works of incredible beauty. His sculptures, frescoes, and architecture still inspire a city-wide love affair.

And, his priceless work is on view at no cost to modern admirers. Angela K. Nickerson, author of A Journey into Michelangelo’s Rome, takes us on a very cheapo-friendly tour of Michelangelo’s Rome.

The Sistine Chapel: (Viale del Vaticano, at the Vatican Museums)

The Sistine Chapel, the ceiling of which is known as Michelangelo’s lifetime achievement, is free and open to the public on the last Sunday of each month. As Goethe once wrote, “Until you have seen the Sistine Chapel, you have no adequate conception of what man is capable of accomplishing.”

St. Peter’s Basilica: (Vatican City)

Michelangelo’s Rome ‘Pieta’, the piece that cemented the 24-year-old’s reputation as a gifted sculptor, occupies a chapel just inside the church’s entrance. Soaring over the central altar, Michelangelo’s dome marks his last great work. Late in Michelangelo’s life, he was charged with reorganizing the architectural design of St. Peter’s. For a small fee (€7; €4 if you just take the stairs), take an elevator to the roof and enjoy a spectacular view of the city. From the roof, take the 300-some steps up the dome and bask in a vision of Rome that Michelangelo himself did not live to see.

Basilica Di San Pietro in Vincoli: (Piazza di San Pietro in Vincoli 4a, Vatican City)

Just up the hill from the Colosseum sits a small, non-descript church called San Pietro in Vincoli. Inside is one of Michelangelo’s most controversial works, a sculpture that depicts Moses with full beard and horns. The statue, and two others (Leah and Rachel) are part of Pope Julius II’s tomb, a project that took Michelangelo 40 years to finish.

Farnese Palace: (250 Via Giulia)

Via Giulia is a renowned street in Rome, and here sits Michelangelo’s Farnese Palace (now the French Embassy), was never bulldozed despite Pope Julius II’s best efforts. Stop here for an afternoon cup of coffee or glass of vino. The piazza and fountains in front are some of the best, and most inspired, in all of Rome.

Santa Maria sopra Minerva: (around the corner from the Pantheon )

Santa Maria sopra Minerva hosts Michelangelo’s statue of a ‘Risen Christ’. Beloved and highly acclaimed in his day, Michelangelo’s depiction of Jesus—as regal, muscular and triumphant—is often overlooked.

Piazza del Campidoglio: (on Capitoline Hill)

When Rome granted Michelangelo citizenship in 1537, the ceremony was held in the mud at the top of the Capitoline Hill. A year later, Pope Paul III asked Michelangelo to redesign the hilltop. Michelangelo transformed its summit into a lovely piazza and redesigned the buildings there as well.

Basilica dei Santi Apostoli: (at Piazza dei Santissimi Apostoli)

When the elderly artist died, at 89-years of age, his funeral was held at Santi Apostoli church and was attended by the entire city including the pope himself. Then, under cover of night, his body was whisked away in a wagon of straw, to be buried in his beloved Florence. However, a plaque was erected at the church in his memory. (Cheapo tip: Knock at the monastery next door and ask about Michelangelo. The plaque with a portrait of the artist is in the monastery’s courtyard.)

About the author: Angela K. Nickerson, author of “A Journey into Michelangelo’s Rome“ (Roaring Forties Press, 2008), married a Roman and fell in love with a country. She now leads small groups of travelers on trips to Italy, but her wanderlust is relentless. Living by the motto, “Just go,” Angela jumps on a plane wherever and whenever possible.

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Michelangelo Buonarroti was born outside of Florence in 1475.  Though he spent much of his life working in Rome, he loved Florence and considered it his home.  Many of his greatest works still reside in Florence, and Florentines are exceedingly proud of their native son. 

Although visiting the city can get pricey, many of Michelangelo’s treasures can be experienced cheaply, or for free! Angela K. Nickerson, author of A Journey into Michelangelo’s Rome, takes us on a budget-friendly tour of Michelangelo’s Florence.

Michelangelo in the Museums

The Bargello: Via del Proconsolo, 4  

Perhaps the best bargain in Florence, the Bargello is a small museum with an amazing collection of sculpture, all for one of the lowest museum prices in Florence (€4).  Here Michelangelo’s Bacchus holds court alongside his Brutus.  Bacchus was Michelangelo’s first commission in Rome, and it failed to meet his patron’s approval because he depicted the god of wine as a drunk.  However, his Brutus—a piece done in his later years—was well-loved, though it served as a scathing commentary on Florence’s political situation.  Donatello’s David is another gem on view at the museum.

The Academy: Via Ricasoli, 60

Home to Michelangelo’s David as well as some of the Captives (originally designed for Pope Julius II’s tomb in Rome), The Academy (in Italian-Accademia), is home to one of the most famous sculptures in the world.  The David cemented Michelangelo’s reputation as the greatest sculptor in Italy and won him a lifetime of work.  While the David is a gorgeous example of finished work, the Captives show how Michelangelo could take one unspectacular and enormous block of marble and create art.

Opera del Duomo:  Piazza del Duomo, 9  

Never crowded, the Opera del Duomo is a less expensive museum option (€6).  Michelangelo’s Florentine Pieta occupies a well-lit alcove in this lovely gallery.  Intended as his own tomb marker, the Florentine Pieta (1548-55) was abandoned, but the figure of Nicodemus still stands as a self-portrait.

Casa Buonarroti: Via Ghibellina, 70  

Also off the beaten path, Casa Buonarroti offers a chance to see the work of a young Michelangelo for a small fee (€6.50).  Scholars can access a large collection of his papers, drawings, and correspondence too.  But the casual visitor shouldn’t miss “Battle of the Centaurs” and “Madonna of the Steps”, both sculpted by Michelangelo while he was just a teenager. (So much for teenage indifference!)  “Battle of the Centaurs” shows a young artists’ mastery of movement and anatomy in a writhing mass of bodies.  And “Madonna” is the first of many sensitive portraits of mothers and their children, all created by an artist whose own mother died when he was six-years-old.

Michelangelo in the Churches

Santa Maria del Fiore (the Duomo):  Piazza Duomo, 17

The Duomo—whose sanctuary itself is free to visit—had only been finished for about 30 years when Michelangelo was born, and it was hailed as one of the world’s architectural wonders because Brunelleschi was the first architect to successfully build a dome after the fall of the Roman Empire.  Having grown up in the dome’s shadow, Michelangelo sent for its dimensions when he set out to design the dome over St. Peter’s in Rome. (Bonus tip: Remember, while you’re there, you can visit the Church of San Benedetto for free as well.)

Santa Croce: Piazza Santa Croce, 16

Michelangelo was buried in his home church of Santa Croce, and he is in good company alongside Dante, Galileo, and Rossini among others.  The church, however, charges €4 admission to see the tombs as well as the beautiful architecture.

Michelangelo for Free

Piazzale Michelangelo: Viale Michelangelo

Built to honor the great artist, the Piazzale Michelangelo is the best place to take a panoramic photo of Florence and the Arno River. Take a picnic or just hang out for a free hours and enjoy the people-watching.

Loggia della Signoria: Piazza della Signoria

According to legend the face carved into the doorframe of the Signoria was created by a blindfolded Michelangelo on a dare. During the Renaissance, the Piazza della Signoria was the site of Michelangelo’s David and remained as such until the late 1800s.  A replica stands there today amid other notable pieces of art including Giambologna’s “Rape of the Sabine Women” and Cellini’s “Perseus”. 

About the author: Angela K. Nickerson, author of ”A Journey into Michelangelo’s Rome” (Roaring Forties Press, 2008), married a Roman and fell in love with a country.  She now leads small groups of travelers on trips to Italy, but her wanderlust is relentless.  Living by the motto “Just go!” Angela jumps on a plane wherever and whenever possible.

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Six recent stories that made us smile and chased away the rain:

1) 5 ways to get even cheaper in Europe

Christopher Cook, of noambit.com, posts this week in Vagabondish about “5 simple ways to beat your travel budget.” His tips are solid and speak to every Cheapo in Europe. In short: Eat cheaply, walk, be flexible with dates, consider more budget-friendly destinations, and think twice before paying for a museum. Nice tips, Chris!

2) 33-cent beers in Vietnam

We don’t normally cover destinations outside of Europe, but we’re following former EuroCheapo staffer TJ DiChristopher as he showcases his skills in Saigon, his new hometown. Today, TJ shares five ways he’s keeping it cheap in Saigon, from budget beer to iced green tea and pirated movies.

3) Italian tourists in Venice

Venice is really crowded right now. According to About.com’s James Martin who was in the canaled city last Saturday, Venice’s narrow streets are packed to overflowing. But with whom? Italians, who were celebrating the May Day weekend (a national holiday). Martin heard mostly the native language being spoken, and hardly any English. Just watch which boat you get on, James!

4) Hungry pigeons in St. Mark’s Square?

Speaking of Venice, Elisabetta Povoledo reported yesterday in the International Herald Tribune that the city has outlawed pigeon feeding in St. Mark’s Square. It turns out that the practice has been banned in the rest of the city for the past 11 years (who knew?), but had been allowed in St. Mark’s because of its iconic, photogenic role in the city’s history (and tourism trade). The result: Protesting birdseed sellers and a switch to feeding the birds potato chips. (We’ve heard that the switch hasn’t Ruffled any feathers…)

5) Daria Werbovy!

Thanks to Holly for correctly identifying the model in the new H&M ad across the street from our office. We couldn’t identify her when she was just a forehead… and, it now turns out, for good reason! Nice job, Holly. We’re sending out your copy today of the Rough Guide to Europe on a Budget.

6) American destinations from Smithsonian

Again, we don’t typically cover non-European locales, but we are loving this month’s (May 2008) issue of Smithsonian Magazine. The mag’s theme is “Destination America”. To croak—er name—a few stories: short takes on The Frog Festival in Rayne, Louisiana, the Chicago blues fest, and a fabulous feature on Acadia Country.  

Have a great weekend, Cheapos.

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