Some items of note that flashed across our screen this week…

Cheap eats in Roma

It turns out we’re not the only ones blogging this week about cheap eats in Rome (read our post). Budget Travel’s blog is talking up cheap lunches in the Eternal City. Erica Firpo writes from Rome that we should say “Basta! to pasta” and reach for something a little less filling for lunch. She recommends picking up some triangular tramezzino. We’ll take two.

From Stansted for £4?

Checking in with “Less Than a Shoestring,” poetloverrebelspy has landed in London and is full of Cheapo-advice. First off, book that coach trip from Stansted into the city early, and use either easyBus or Terravision. On easyBus it’s possible to snag a seat (booked in advance) for as low as £4.25 each way!

Furthermore, we’re reminded that the Tate Modern and Tate Britain are not only free, but they offer free guided tours. Join in!

Dinner in London for £5

Meanwhile, Olivia from “High Culture on a Low Budget” is thinking London budgets, too. In this week’s installment of “Ask a Local“, she asks Mike from London where he would find dinner for £5 and £10. (Hint: The Best Turkish Kebab or an Amy Winehouse haunt.) Nice job with this series, Olivia!

Athens in 36 hours

Sunday preview: The New York Times takes us along for “36 hours in Athens.” We’re impressed by how much Joanna Kakissis can fit into a day and a half, including museum hopping, brunch taking, ruin walking, sunset strolling, restaurant sampling, bar hopping… But we have some better ideas for affordable hotels in Athens.

And, regarding our “Name that celebrity” quiz on Wednesday: We still can’t figure out who she is. Stay tuned for the answer and our winner.

Happy Friday, Cheapos! Should we all just head to Athens for the weekend?

Popularity: 14% [?]

 
Westminster Abbey icons

Yes, we hate adding on the extra pounds too. And, in London, it’s easy to do. Thankfully, there are a slew of free things to take advantage of in Her Majesty’s city—and you pretty much only need a good pair of walking shoes to enjoy them. Righty-ho!

Water works

We think the best fountains in London (and there are plenty to choose from!) are the two majestic bronze fountains that flow over Trafalgar Square. Start by admiring them from afar, standing at the northern edge of the square. Then, take the stairs down, pause to pet the giant lion statues (another Square fixture), and settle in on a perch nearby. We’ve spent whole afternoons here, where the views of Londontown are great and you’re never far from a duck or a wish.

Sit for a portrait

The National Portrait Gallery in Trafalgar Square is free and open to the public daily, closing only for a couple days at Christmas. The gallery displays portraits, photos, and sculptures of notable Brits, including a famous rendering of Shakespeare by John Taylor. Be sure to peek at portraits of Benjamin Franklin, Rudyard Kipling and all 50 paintings of Queen Elizabeth II (somebody’s been sitting for a long time!).

Admission is also free in The National Gallery next door, where the magnificent Arnolfini Portrait is on display. And, very important, don’t forget that most of the city’s state-run museums in London are free. Check out our post on free London museums for more information.

En guard!

London is known for its royal ceremonies. Stand outside Buckingham Palace at 11:30 am on most days and you can see the changing of the guard, a fantastic display of military music, regalia, and general British pomp. (Not to mention those furry hats!) Check the guard’s web site for the ceremony schedule. (The event occurs once daily from April to July and then alternates days August through March.)

A pew with a view 

It costs nothing to attend a traditional worship service at Wesminster Abbey, where Queen Elizabeth II was coronated in 1953 and notables like Geoffrey Chaucer are buried. There are six services on Sunday and four services on other days—all free and open to the public—and they provide a fascinating look into church life in England.

After the service, visit nearby St. Margaret’s Church, free and open to the public daily. If you choose to tour the Abbey, only available on weekdays or Saturday, it will cost you £10.

Parliamentary, my dear!

If you want to sit in on a session at the British Parliament, you’ll need to queue up early as it’s one of the most popular activities in town. However, if you are a UK citizen and apply in advance through your local MP (Member of Parliament), you can skip the line altogether and receive a guaranteed place. The best time of day to go is in the morning. If you get in, you may see the Prime Minister on Wednesday mornings, when he appears before the House of Commons for his weekly ”Prime Minister’s Questions” session. Parliament is open Monday through Friday. Check the Parliament’s Web site for hours.

Popularity: 18% [?]

In the spring of 2006, I was able to score some super-cheap tickets on Ryanair for a last-minute getaway to Barcelona from London, where I was living. It had been a great weekend, made possible by my low-cost flight. I booked a 6 PM flight in order to extend my holiday as long as possible, pushing off the reality of the next morning’s workday. As long as I was in Barcelona, I was on vacation!

The tickets were basically free—I only had to pay the airport tax. The catch? I had to fly into and out of two less-than-central airports, London’s Stansted and Barcelona’s Girona airport. It was worth it, right?

What follows is a diary of my flight experience en route from Barcelona to London.

4:30 PM: I arrive early at the airport for a 6 PM flight. We all know you have to get to the gate before the other passengers in order to snag the best seat.

5:00 PM: Shortly after check-in, an announcement is made. The flight has been delayed an hour.

Ok, some extra time to score a panini at Girona’s atmospheric café. (In the above photo, do I look like I’m ready for take-off?)

Tip: Stock up on food, just in case. Girona’s airport café closed at 9 p.m. I’m glad I grabbed a sandwich when I did. Others would not be so lucky.

7 PM: A second announcement. The flight has been delayed for another hour. All assembled groan and pull out iPods, books and approved electronic devices. One nearby traveler starts clipping his nails over a waste basket, violating all manner of social codes (are clippers even allowed on airplanes?).

8:15 PM: A third announcement. Drum roll, please: The flight has been delayed for another two hours. The announcer says, with a tinge of exhaustion in her voice, “We hope to leave by 11. Thank you for your patience.” The thought of work the next morning was beginning to make me vaguely nauseous.

Around 10 PM: Boredom sets in. All other flights have taken off. The airport feels empty, save the other poor souls flying to Stansted. With hardly anyone around, I attempt to fit myself, horizontally, into a row of seats in any way that could lead to sleep. I am not successful.

Above: Nothing happening under flourescent lights.

Tip: Bring back-up diversions. That could mean catching up on your trip journal, watching all the TV shows you earlier loaded up on your iPod, making progress on that novel, or even flipping through some celeb mags. In short, have something to do. I had packed “Madame Bovary,” which only helped put me to sleep.

11:30 PM: All other flights have left the Girona airport, and there’s still no sign of our airplane. The 20 Stansted-bound passengers are told we will not take off until after midnight. No excuse is given.

Tip: Make friends…if there are any out there. At some point after midnight, I found myself chatting with a couple from Los Angeles. A bottle of vodka became open. (Glad they took advantage of Duty Free when it was open…hours ago.) I pass up a shot (work seems ludicrously close), but others around happily partake. The mood lifts… and distorts.

1:30 AM: We take off, nine hours after my arrival at the airport.

Tip: Know when to go! Turns out there’s more than one good reason not to check any luggage on a budget flight. If you’re delayed, you could risk missing the last bus out of the arrival airport.

2:30 AM: We arrive at Stansted and immediately there’s a mad dash for the bus to London. And for good reason: The last one leaves the airport at 3 am (and sometimes earlier, depending on reasons I couldn’t quite understand). If you miss the last bus, you have to get a taxi, which can cost upwards of £60, or wait until 7 am when the buses start up again. I make the bus.

3:30 AM: I’m dropped off at Marble Arch on Oxford Street. What’s my name? Who am I? And how do I get a taxi? Work the next morning was, well, another story…

In the end, this experience didn’t deter me from flying on budget airlines. Over the next year, I’d often take cheap flights, including easyJet and Aer Lingus, for quick getaways. But I learned something about flexibility that long night in Girona.

Read another Cheapo’s tale of a long night in Stansted. Got a good airport story? Leave a comment or send us a note.

Popularity: 24% [?]

London can be a tricky city for dining. Long criticized for the quality of its fare (”It’s no Paris!”), the city has undergone a gastro-awakening over the past decade that has benefited the bellies, if not the wallets, of its diners.

So what’s a Cheapo to eat? Here are our dining tips, all tested and tried:

1. Go for conveyer belt sushi!

We were initially turned off by the robotic, ever-moving feel of these establishments, frequently seen in London’s malls and Tube stations, but the low prices always lured us back to the belt. Eventually, we even got a hang of it. (Not counting the time the California rolls spun out on our table.) We’re big fans because you watch all the sushi and sashimi as it’s prepared, so you know it’s fresh. You can also ask the chef to add a little extra something (Wasabi? Extra roe?) to your particular dish. Hey, if we’re conveyer converts, you can be too.

Try Yo Sushi, which has tons of locations all across London.

2. Eat with the fishes—and chips!

Sure, we try to stay away from battered and fried, but you have to go there at least once during your stay. Our favorite fish and chips joint is the Rock & Sole Plaice (47 Endell St, WC2 ) in Covent Garden. For under £15, you can order a whole fish and taste a variety of dipping sauces, and have your chips too! If you can’t tube it to this spot, you can usually find decent (and cheaper) fish and chips in any neighborhood. Just steer clear of major tourist haunts (Read: Leicester Square) and larger chains like Slug and Lettuce that claim they have fresh oceanic fare. When in doubt, ask the locals!

3. Kebob it!

We’ve been there: It’s midnight, the pub just closed, and your tum-tum is grumbling. If you’re in Bayswater, head for a kebob stand on busy Queensway where, for a few pounds, you can get your lamb on. Doll it up with the fixins, which usually include peppers, tomatoes, hummus, tahini, and cucumber sauce.

We recommend The Taza Kebab House, where the lamb is always succulent and the pita sandwiches are filling.

4. Join the chain gang.

You may normally steer clear of chain restaurants, but local chains can introduce you to local tastes (mmmm…. mayonnaise!) and help your budget. Big name chain restaurants like Wagamama (Japanese) and Pret-A-Manger (eat-in or take-out sandwiches and coffee) are London mainstays, located throughout the city. Smaller chains like Hummus Bros offer a unique dining experience without exotic prices. Many of these chains offer lunch specials daily.

5. Get roasted.

Sunday is the best day to partake in a yummy, often three-course, gastro-pub meal. The menus are usually prix fixe, but you can always order stuff separately. And, if you haven’t been to a Sunday “roast,” it’s a great way to see London culture at its finest—and hungriest—as piles of bangers and mash, roasted chickens and beef, and plenty o’ pints are consumed. We love The Chapel Pub in Marylebone (48 Chapel Street, London, NW1 5DP ), where we’re always warmly greeted with a comfy seat and a fantastic meal.

Popularity: 10% [?]

Planning to visit London on a budget could initially give a Cheapo a nervous breakdown. But, as documented throughout our London guide, it is possible to live it up in London on a modest budget — with a little planning.

How? Besides the obvious (choosing a budget hotel, eating cheaply, and getting around with an Oyster card), you’d be crazy not to take advantage of London’s free museums and attractions. Most of the nationally-run museums and art galleries are publicly financed and don’t cost visitors a pence. It’s a beautiful thing…

9 must-visit free museums:

British Library
British Museum
National Gallery
Natural History Museum
National Portrait Gallery
Science Museum
Tate Modern
The Tate Britain
Victoria and Albert Museum

9 notable, free museums:

Bank of London Museum
Imperial War Museum
London Political Cartoon Gallery
Museum of Garden History
Museum of London
National Maritime Museum
Petrie Museum of Egyption Archaeology
RIBA Architecture Gallery
Sir John Soane’s Museum

2 fun and free attractions:

The Changing of the Guard
The Ceremony of the Keys

More budget help for London:

• Our article on budget tips for London
• The “London Free List” of free and nearly-free London attractions
• VisitLondon’s suggestions for free London attractions

Popularity: 11% [?]

We’d like to take this opportunity to extol the virtues of London’s Oyster. Oyster card, that is.

In a city fit for a queen, it often seems that prices for everything can be a royal pain. However, with the little blue and white Oyster card, visitors and locals alike benefit from drastically reduced rates on mass transit. (You can use the card on the Tube, trams, buses, DLR, London Overground and some National Rail services.)

Take a single fare on the Tube, for example:

A trip from within Zones 1-4 (say Kew Gardens to Oxford Street) would normally cost £4. With the Oyster, the price fluctuates—depending on time of day, day of week, and zone—from £1.50-2.50. In some cases, that’s more than half the cost! And, since we last checked, with the money you save on public transport, you can buy more cups of coffee.

So, why doesn’t everyone opt for oyster?

Well, we’re not sure. It does initially take a few minutes to buy the card. There’s a small application to fill out (either online or in the station) so that the Transport of London knows where to find you or how to help if your card goes missing. Additionally, a £3 deposit is required to issue the card, although you can reclaim your deposit (and any unused credits) by turning in your Oyster when leaving town. But those are really small inconveniences.

You can “top up” the card (Brit lingo for adding on the pounds) on-line, at various kiosks across London, and by phone. Plus, Oyster offers fun specials. Recently, they were giving away free iTunes songs with the purchase of rides.

The cards are easy to use, but try not to lose them. At the moment, there’s no definitive insurance policy for Oysters that are misplaced or lost along the way, although we know of cases in which replacement cards were offered. Bad news, though, if you’ve just “topped up” with the maximum £90 allowed on the card.

For lots more info on how to get a card and more, visit London’s Transport site.

Popularity: 7% [?]

While walking to the office this morning, coffee splashing out of our coffee cup sip-top, we started wondering: If we were in London right now, where would we grab a morning cup of joe and how much would it cost?

When last we pounded the pavement researching hotels in London for our guide, we remembered fondly finding respite (and caffeine) in the UK coffee chains (Caffe Nero, Costa Coffee, Coffee Republic, Pret a Manger) and, yes, also in the American chains (Starbucks and McDonald’s).

Setting aside the question of the “best cup of coffee in London,” (another post entirely), where can you find the cheapest cup?

Researching this online was a no-go. Every chain has its own website, of course, but you won’t find any prices listed. This is probably due to fluctuations in pricing throughout the UK — and to prevent pesky investigators from blogging about it. So we went about our research the old fashioned way… we called ‘em on the phone. (Thank you, Vonage.)

Note that coffee prices inside London may vary for the same chain, as well. Thus, we called only coffee outlets in central London, asking for prices for a small latte and for a small Americano (”drip” coffee isn’t widely available). Keep in mind that true sizes may differ from chain to chain — even though they’re all called “small,” one chain may offer more ounces.

We also only inquired about “take away” prices — when we started asking too many questions, baristas and managers got a little nervous.

The results:

Caffe Nero - The Winner!
Small Americano: £1.30 ($2.56)
Small Latte: £1.50 ($2.95)
We spoke to baristas at two central Caffe Nero locations, both near Covent Garden, in order to verify the price. These are nearly New York prices.

Runners Up

Pret a Manger
Small Americano: £1.40 ($2.76)
Small Latte: £1.79 ($3.52)
We’re fans of these cute little outlets. We spoke to a barista at a location on Villiers Street, near the Strand.

McDonald’s
Drip: £1.59/1.99 ($3.13/3.92)
Latte: £1.59/1.99 ($3.13/3.92)
We spoke to a manager (we believe) near a location on the Strand. We asked too many questions and he hung up on us. Interestingly, McDonald’s was the only chain we called that serves drip coffee instead of Americano. Also, they don’t have “small” sizes, only “medium” and “large.” (What, no “supersized”?)

Pricier Coffee Chains

Coffee Republic
Small Americano: £1.69 ($3.32)
Small Latte: £1.89 ($3.72)
We spoke to a friendly barista at a popular location on Tottenham Court Road.

Costa Coffee
Small Americano: £1.70 ($3.35)
Small Latte: £1.95 ($3.84)
A nice guy at the Embankment Place location (near the Strand) offered these rates, although he was curious. “Are you a customer?” he asked us. Of course! (We have enjoyed a Costa cup in the past, after all.)

Starbucks - Most Expensive
Small Americano: £1.75 ($3.45)
Small Latte: £2.05 ($4.04)
The prices were given to us by a barista at a Villiers Street location, near the Strand. This confirmed our suspicions that the Seattle-based chain was, in fact, the priciest coffee-chain cup in town. Or at least, the priciest cup we called.

We didn’t have time to check in on cool independent cafes in London, but that’s another post.

Popularity: 7% [?]

Emma Clarke, the ubiquitous voice behind “Mind the Gap” and “Stand clear of the closing doors” in London’s Underground, has been fired by the Tube, according to news reports published in London today.

The sacking of Emma took place because the voice-over professional published a number of quite funny faux-announcements on her personal website (which is now so popular that it has become almost impossible to access). These spoof recordings poke fun at perverts, Americans, and the Tube itself.

Some examples:

“We would like to remind our American tourist friends that you are almost certainly talking too loudly.”

“Would the passenger in the red shirt pretending to read the paper but who is actually staring at that woman’s chest please stop. You are not fooling anyone, you filthy pervert.”

The 36-year old Clarke also admits to never riding the Tube anymore, because it’s “dreadful.” In the words of the Times of London, it looks like it’s “the end of the line” for Ms Clarke.

Perhaps she might try “Mind the Gaffe”?

Popularity: 4% [?]

We’re psyched that the new and improved St. Pancras train station opened this week in London. The depot, rebuilt and improved with a $1.7 billion budget, boasts more than just slick rails. Indeed, St. Pancras Station boasts the longest champagne bar in Europe, its own underground shopping mall and—most importantly—the fastest Eurostar journey to date from London to Paris. (Trains also leave the station for Brussels and Lille.)

We’re not, however, completely sold on the station’s PR: A daily farmer’s market in the downstairs arcade promises to be “Where the best of the British meets the flavours of the continent.” (Well, they’ve had their plates full.)

We recommend taking a virtual tour of the station.

On this side of the Atlantic, more “rail good” news as the U.S. House of Representatives last week approved $1.4 billion to keep Amtrak chugging along and improve track conditions. We’re glad to know our government, too, is finally taking note of the necessity for rail travel in an age of mass congestion and high fuel prices. Too bad Mr. President has promised to veto the bill.

Politics aside, we remain enthusiastic about the new station. And eager to try out that champagne bar. Toot, toot!

Popularity: 4% [?]

It’s not often that we feel compelled to essentially offer advertising copy for another publication, but we’ve fallen in love with Time Out’s Country Walks Volume 1, a compendium of 53 walks (one for each week of the year plus one reserve) within a short distance of London.

The country walks listed in the book were honed over several years by an informal group of London area walking enthusiasts. The book, originally edited by Nicholas Albery and first published in 1997, is quite palpably a labor of love. Suggestions for lunch and tea are made for each walk. Length of walks, transportation information, and a toughness scale for each walk give prospective a sense of what to expect.

We admire the volume’s sheer enthusiasm and attention to detail—sections on lyme disease, the suggestion that walkers invest in “a compass with a swivelling rim marked in degrees,” maps, and its careful descriptions of walks and potential hazards (”exclamation marks in square brackets —[!]— mean ‘pay careful attention to the route here, it is easy to go wrong’”) are all super informative and helpful.

There’s also a second volume, which we haven’t yet checked out.

Popularity: 3% [?]