One of Paris' many cafes. Photo by d'Alk.

By Liz Webber—

When you plan a vacation, you generally budget a certain amount that you want to pay for airfare and a hotel. Yet, many forget to plan for all the little expenses—which can really add up if you’re not careful.

Here’s our handy cheat sheet for what you can expect to pay for some basic items in Paris, as well as tips for finding a cheaper alternative.

Cup of coffee: €2.50+

While a simple espresso generally will cost around €2.50-€3 when sipped seated at a café, anything fancier (latte, café crème, etc.) is going to tack on an extra euro or more in price. Cafés in central Paris also increase their prices for other basic items because they know tourists will pay.

When grabbing a coffee at a touristed café (or any café, for that matter), stand at the bar with the locals and pay half the price. For a leisurely café experience, why not venture to a spot along the Canal St. Martin in the 11th arrondissement where prices should be more reasonable?

Ticket to the Louvre: €9.50

That full-price admission ticket for the Louvre’s permanent collections doesn’t even include the €6 audio guide.

For a cheaper alternative, visit the museum on Wednesday or Friday evening from 6 PM to 9:45 PM for €6 and download the free Louvre app from the Apple store before you go. Better yet, aim for the first Sunday of the month when museum admission is free (although crowds can be a problem later in the day).

Many other museums also offer reduced rates for evening admission and most participate in the free first Sundays.

Lunch at a restaurant: €10+

Even at lunchtime, a main course at a moderately-priced restaurant in a touristy neighborhood will probably run upwards of €10—and that doesn’t account for wine or other beverages.

Instead, pick up a prepared sandwich at a boulangerie for about €3 or go for the “formule” that includes a sandwich, dessert, and drink for €5-€7. For a really cheap alternative, pick up a €1 baguette, a €3 bottle of supermarket wine (still tasty even though it’s so cheap!), and some cheese and find a spot for a picnic.

Pint of beer in a bar: €6

Even when compared to New York or London, I find alcohol to be pretty expensive in Paris at even the diviest of bars.

However, in supermarkets it’s fairly cheap. Since drinking in public is legal in most places in Paris (and even in places where it isn’t, most cops will turn a blind eye if you’re discreet about it), you can opt for a less expensive night out by picking up a bottle of wine or a couple of beers at the nearest Franprix and finding a place to sit along the Seine.

If you do want to order a beer at a bar, try a pint of French-made 1664. But to really feel like a local, ask for “un seize” (meaning “16″ – the first part of the beer’s name in French).

Add your tips

How have you kept your expenses low in Paris? Have some tips to share? Please add them in our comments section below!

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Cheap secondhand books at Gilbert Jeune. Photo by ShimShamB.

By Liz Webber—

There are plenty of things to bring back from Paris, whether lasting or fleeting, that won’t eat up all your euros. Here are five of our suggestions for souvenirs that will remind you of la vie Parisien—for €5 or less.

1. Livre d’occasion from Gilbert Jeune

With outlets on both sides of the St. Michel fountain, the Gilbert Jeune bookstore both buys and sells books. That’s good news for Cheapos, since the store often resells the livres d’occasion (used books) at 50 percent or more off the original price. Find an extensive selection of discounted books on the top floor of the shop (the one on the left side when facing the fountain), whether your French reading level is Le Compte de Monte Cristo, Le Petit Prince, or Les Couleurs.

2. Bottle of wine from Nicolas

In France, pretty much all wine is good wine, even the cheapest bottles. Nicolas, a chain of wine stores, sells bottles in every price range, with plenty of decent vintages for less than €5. The salespeople are also helpful in assisting customers in finding the type of wine they want. The main Paris store is located at the Place de la Madeleine, though there are numerous outlets throughout the city.

3. Notebook from the Louvre

A mustard lover's dream. Photo: RoryRory

The Louvre museum store sells a number of small items, like postcards and bookmarks, for only a couple of euros. Why not take home a souvenir and start recounting your travels at the same time with a notebook featuring the Mona Lisa on the cover?

4. Checkered scarf

No matter what the weather, a checkered scarf is part of the uniform of many Parisian boys (and girls!). The kitschy tourist shops you’ll find on virtually every corner in central Paris sell various scarves and pashminas, many of which are €5 or less. Check out the kids on the street for hints on how to wear your new scarf!

5. Mustard from Maille

The Maille store at 6 Place de la Madeleine in the 8th Arrondissement is a mustard-lover’s dream, with dozens of flavors you won’t find elsewhere, like cassis (black currant), basil or peach. There are a couple of different size jars that won’t empty your wallet, though you can splurge on a multi-pack gift set or one of the mustards “on tap” that come in refillable crocks.

Your Cheapo Paris souvenirs

Did you come home from your European vacation with a neat souvenir that cost less than €5? Tell us about it in the comments section!

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The Picasso Museum is closed through 2012. Photo by Madhatrk.

By Liz Webber—

As is true for museums in all cities, it’s sometimes necessary for museums in Paris to shut their doors for renovations or just to get the works back in peak condition. But what’s a Cheapo to do when that happens during your visit?

Though these three museums and museum wings may be closed for the time being, here are some ways to enjoy a similar experience in Paris.

Musée Picasso

Picasso Museum. Photo by Jane VC.

Due to a huge renovation project, the Musée Picasso remains closed until 2012. That’s a long time! The museum plans to host exhibits and other cultural events elsewhere, but no details are yet available.

Those looking for a Picasso fix can visit the Musée de l’Orangerie (pictured above) in the Jardin des Tuileries, which houses a dozen of the artist’s works (open every day except Tuesday from 9 AM to 6 PM). Admission costs €7.50, and is free on the first Sunday of the month.

The Centre George Pompidou also has a few Picassos in its permanent collection (open every day except Tuesday from 11 AM to 9 PM). Tickets cost €10-12, but like the Musée de l’Orangerie, admission is free on the first Sunday of the month.

It doesn’t much help Cheapos traveling to Paris, but a touring exhibit of some of the Picasso Museum’s collection is planned for several countries, kicking off at the Ateneum Art Museum in Helsinki and making stops in Moscow, St. Petersburg, Seattle, New York and San Francisco.

The Catacombs

Paris' catacombs. Photo by Adam Baker.

As a result of a serious act of vandalism, the Paris Catacombs – a massive underground mausoleum created in the 18th Century which houses the remains of some 6 million Parisians – is currently closed indefinitely. (We’ve heard that minor vandalism has long been a problem at the Catacombs. The seemingly random pile of bones near the exit is actually a stack of the artifacts visitors have tried to take home with them.)

While not quite as spine-tingling, another quirky museum that will take you under the city streets is a tour of the Paris sewer system. The hour-long visit gives a history of the city’s water distribution and removal, including the various pumps and engines used throughout the past several hundred years. The entrance to the sewers is located across from 93 Quai d’Orsay. The museum is open Saturday to Wednesday from 11 AM to 4 PM between October 1 and April 30, and closes at 5 PM between May 1 and September 30. Tickets cost €4.30.

For a taste of the macabre, you can also can check out the Centquatre art center (104 Rue d’Aubervilliers). Tours every other Sunday at 3 PM explain its history as the city’s centralized funeral home. The tour costs €5.

The Islamic art wing at the Louvre

Beyond tourist pleasers like the Mona Lisa and Venus de Milo, the Louvre has an excellent collection of Egyptian and Near Eastern artifacts. Part of that includes an extensive display of Islamic art, which unfortunately remains off limits to the public until construction of its new home is completed in 2010. The new wing has been called “the most radical architectural addition since Pei’s glass pyramid.”

In the meantime, visitors can enjoy an exhibition of Islamic art at the Institute of the Arab World, which features manuscripts, tapestries, glassware and ceramics, jewelry and mosaics from Muslim nations across the globe. The Institute is located at 1 Rue des Fossés Saint-Bernard. The expo is open Tuesday, Wednesday and Friday from 10 AM to 6 PM; Thursday until 10 PM; and weekends and bank holidays until 8 PM. Admission to the exhibition, which runs through March 14, 2010, costs €10.50. For an extra freebie, head up to the roof for a great view of the city.

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The Petit Palais, a free museum. Photos by Liz Webber.

By Liz Webber in Paris—

Paris really went all-out for the 1900 Exposition Universelle, constructing several buildings which are now considered Paris landmarks, including the Musée d’Orsay, the Gare de Lyon, and the Grand Palais. Another such project was the Petit Palais, a light-filled, “Beaux-Arts” structure overlooking the Champs-Elysées.

Nowadays the building houses the City of Paris Museum of Fine Arts (with free admission!) and an intriguing mix of temporary exhibits that won’t break the bank.

A Palace of Fine Arts

The soaring structure with its vast, columned entryway was designed by architect Charles Girault, who also directed work on the Grand Palais across the way. Huge windows bathe every room in natural light, even on the lower levels.

The Petit Palais was inaugurated in 1900 and opened to the public as a museum in 1902. A renovation project closed the museum from 2001-2005, but the building reopened with a restored sense of the original architecture and larger spaces for exhibitions.

"The Parable of the Wise and Foolish Virgins" by Blake

Crazy poet conquers the Palais

Currently (May 2009), an exhibit well worth checking out is “William Blake, the Genius Visionary of English Romanticism,” a collection of the poet’s art and engravings. Let’s stop and think about that one for a second – a tribute to Blake in Paris, focusing on his work as an artist and engraver. Who knew the French would be interested in such a thing?

Still, Parisians have been coming out in droves to see the haunting, bizarre and sometimes disturbing works of Blake. The images center on themes like the Bible and Dante’s Divine Comedy, with a healthy dose of Blake’s “visions” and dreams thrown in. None of the art sold very well during his lifetime, and Blake relied on wealthy friends and patrons to continue painting and engraving.

The expo runs through June 28, 2009. Admission is €8.

From Greek mountains to the streets of Paris

Another current exhibit is “Mount Athos and the Byzantine Empire,” which brings Orthodox art from northern Greece outside of its native land for the first time. The monastic communities of Mount Athos, where no woman has ever stepped foot, have been collecting religious treasures for more than 1,000 years.

The exhibition ends July 3, 2009. Tickets for this expo are €9, or go for the two-is-better-than-one deal of Mount Athos and William Blake for €13. To avoid waiting in line (entrance to all sections of the museum is through one long, snaking line), reserve tickets online at least two days in advance for the Mount Athos exhibit.

In late 2009 the Petit Palais will host “Fernand Pelez, la parade des humbles.” This artist drew inspiration from the ordinary people he encountered in late 19th-century Paris, from women and children to clowns and young Opera dancers. The expo is planned to run Sept. 24, 2009 to Jan. 17, 2010.

Did somebody say “free”?

The Petit Palais garden

To still enjoy the rich history and architecture of the Petit Palais and save some money for a café and pâtisserie afterward, stop by for the free permanent collection. The visit won’t take nearly as long as a trip to the Louvre, and the art and artifacts encompass pretty much the same period (from antiquity to the early 20th century).

While the artwork isn’t necessarily well-known, you’ll certainly be familiar with the artists on display, including Delacroix, Rembrandt, Cézanne, and Monet (although let’s be honest, what Paris museum doesn’t have a Monet?).

Unfortunately the Greek and Roman section is not particularly noteworthy, but the Medieval Christian art is worth a look. Also be sure to step out to the garden in the center.

The Petit Palais is open every day from 10 AM to 6 PM, except Mondays and holiday. Temporary exhibits stay open until 8 PM on Thursdays.

About the author: Liz Webber is a freelance journalist living and working in Paris. She has previously worked for the International Herald Tribune and Budget Travel.

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The Pont Neuf, Paris's oldest bridge. Photos by Liz Webber.

By Liz Webber in Paris—

When the French “faire le pont,” they’re not talking about building bridges. Rather, they’re taking an extra day off work to make a long weekend when there’s a bank holiday midweek.

Regardless, there’s quite a bit to be said for the real bridges (”ponts“) in Paris. Join us, as we stroll from the Ile St. Louis to the Eiffel Tower, crossing over some of the city’s best bridges.

A river runs under it

Bicycle man

We start at the Pont Sully (built 1876), at the very eastern edge of the Ile St. Louis. Down below on the banks, this section of the isle is an ideal location for sunbathers on a clear day. After gazing out to the east of Paris, take a stroll westward through what has become one of the city’s most fashionable addresses.

The Pont St. Louis (completed 1970) is a tiny bridge connecting the Ile St. Louis with the Ile de la Cité. It sits in the shadow of Notre Dame, across the street from one of the many places selling the famous Berthillon ice cream (though not the original, at 31 rue St. Louis en Ile). This bridge is prime real estate for musicians and other street performers. On a recent afternoon, a crazy French clown and his amazing trick bicycle entertained a crowd of a few dozen, while a rock band was only too glad to take over once the clown’s show finished.

Everything old is new again

Continuing west off the Ile de la Cité, the next major bridge is the Pont Neuf. Despite it’s name, it’s actually the oldest bridge in Paris, completed in 1607. Just north of the bridge is the Samaritaine department store, closed since 2005 for safety-related renovations. The tip of the island to the west of the Pont Neuf is popular with picnickers. Although alcohol is officially ”interdit,” gendarmes tend to look the other way if you pour your beverage into cups and hide the bottle.

Looking towards the Pont des Arts

No cars allowed

Following the Seine west, the next bridge we encounter is the Pont des Arts (completed 1984), an iconic footbridge anchored by the Louvre on one side and the Institut de France on the other. Taking a cue from the bridge’s name, many artists and craftsmen set up shop here to display their creations.

A little ways down is another pedestrian bridge, today called the Passerelle Léopold Sédar Senghor after the first president of Senegal and the first African to be a part of the Academie française. Completed in its latest incarnation in 1999, this bridge arcs right down to the edge of the Seine.

Bridging the gap

The Paris city hall website calls the Pont Alexandre III “Paris’s most elegant bridge.” It can be a little hard to appreciate the fine sculpture work, however, with all the cars and buses roaring up from the Avenue de Maréchal Galliéni. The bridge was built between 1896 and 1900.

Between the Pont Alexandre III and the Eiffel Tower there is not much to see aside from the Passerelle Debilly, a pedestrian bridge built for the 1900 World’s Fair. Still, a walk along the southern bank of the Seine is quite pleasant, as it’s mostly a tree-lined strip of a park.

La Tour Eiffel

Get over it

We have finally reached the Pont d’Iéna (completed 1814), which was originally conceived to commemorate Napoleon’s 1806 victory in the battle of Jena. The bridge is an excellent spot for taking photos of the Eiffel Tower. Across the river, the steps of the Palais de Chaillot are probably the best place to watch the tower’s evening light show that takes place every hour from sunset to 1 AM (2 AM in summer).

Your favorite bridge?

Do you have a favorite bridge in Paris? How about a favorite spot along the Seine? Tell us in the comments section below.

About the author: Liz Webber is a freelance journalist living and working in Paris. She has previously worked for the International Herald Tribune and Budget Travel.

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The author in Speyer, Germany, birthplace of the pretzel.

Munich—Wandering Cheapo Reinhardt Suarez just finished up a stint living and working in Tuscany. He’s now traveling through Europe. Here, he shares his insights for traveling light à la Cheapo.

How have I made the most of my limited budget abroad? It goes without saying, “Prepare, prepare, prepare!”

Research and development

Although down-to-the-minute planning can be limiting, doing some research on the best hotels and hostels, and the best modes of transportation, is the key to saving your money later. If you can do research about your intended destination before you even get on the plane, all the better.

For me, the preparation began the day I realized I wanted to get the heck outta dodge and head back to Europe.

Through some crafty internet research and a few phone calls, I was fortunate to get hooked up with an artist residency that paid for my room and board while I was there. But I was expected to work an eight-hour day on a farm. (In my next post, I’ll explore ways that the average Cheapo can find similar kinds of set-ups.)

Here are my most important tips for a budget-friendly European experience, Wandering Cheapo-style:

1. One big meal a day is plenty.

Budget for cheap breakfasts (unless you’re in Ireland, and then that can be your big meal), grocery-store lunches (I love the sandwiches at Tesco in London), and then wolf down a bigger dinner if you like. This is especially important if you are going on a longer trip. Your money will drain fast, especially if you’re stopping here and there for bottled water, snacks, and aperitifs.

2. Make a budget for yourself that is weekly on a longer trip, daily on a shorter one.

Sometimes, you arrive in a city and find that there are great tours and museums that cannot be missed (Please don’t leave Paris without visiting the Louvre). Admission charges will quickly eat into your budget. But don’t fret. On a longer trip, think about your budget in terms of weekly caps. That way, if you go over your budget on one day, you can compensate on another day. Have fun, but keep disciplined at the same time.

3. Always have a notebook and pen handy.

Sometimes you’ll want to take notes on a place, or you’ll want to jot down the location of a cheap restaurant that you come across and want to check out later. You may need to get the e-mail of your new best friend in, say, Latvia, or the phone number of a good hostel that doesn’t offer on-line booking. Try to find a notebook with a pocket so you can collect train tickets, pamphlets and brochures, and other helpful info easily.

4. Talk to everyone.

I know that this may not seem like a budget tip, but it definitely can be. When you talk to other travelers, you find out where to go and when to go, what to spend time and money on. And when you talk to locals, you find out all sorts of money-saving insider tips about a place. You might even snag a free meal or a night’s lodging just by engaging someone’s interest. (It goes without saying, use your gut and follow your instincts along the way. If you feel uncomfortable around someone, think twice about accepting their hospitality.)

5. Everywhere you go, ask about discounts.

There are thousands of discounts to be had in Europe. If you’re a student, you’re pretty much set. Those of us who are late-blooming travelers need not worry either. Some museums and sights are cheaper - or FREE - on certain days of the week. Restaurants offer fixed-price menus at certain times of the day, often including a free beverage. Sometimes by picking up the right piece of paper in a city, or maybe a magazine or flyer, you can snag discounts on stuff. Ask, ask, and ask again. “Do you offer discounts of any kind?” You will often be happily surprised.

For more about Reinhardt’s travels, visit his blog: The Pork Chop Express.

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Hotel les Chansonniers
113, Boulevard de Menilmontant   
Paris, France

Doubles €55-68

We love scouting out small, quirky hotels in Paris. Happily, the city is full of independent, charming hotels that offer rooms at very reasonable rates. One that we have an especially deep “crush” on is Hotel les Chansonniers (”The Singers”). Located a bit off-the-beaten path, this cheery hotel has a whole lotta heart and soul, and 40 clean and cheap rooms.

If you stay at Les Chansonniers, be sure to say hello to the lovely owner, Madame Sellam. She has a passion for music and takes pride in rooms touting the lives of great songstresses like Edith Piaf. The minute you step inside the note-worthy lobby and hotel bar, you’ll swoon.

What do we mean when we say “off the beaten path”? The property is in the Republique neighborhood, a bit northeast of the main sights, but very well connected by the Metro. The area is busy and working-class. It’s not Latin Quarter touristy, but brims instead with local activity. In short, it may not be right for first-time travelers to Paris who want a hotel steps from the Eiffel Tower or Notre Dame.

Read our full review of Hotel les Chansonniers.

Cheapo tip: Try to stay in one of the two top-floor rooms that come with Jacuzzis!

Find more budget hotels in Paris and read our budget guide to traveling in Paris. 

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No trip to Paris is complete without a visit to the world-famous Louvre museum, home to the Mona Lisa, Venus de Milo, and much more. Tickets aren’t exactly cheap (admission ranges from €6 to €13, with cheaper prices offered from 6 p.m. to 9:45 p.m. on Wednesdays and Fridays), but the creme de la creme of the museum world opens its doors for free on the first Sunday of each month! (The Musée d’Orsay and the Rodin Museum offer free admission on the first Sunday of each month as well).

Cheapos heading to the city of light in the near future are in for another chance opportunity: on July 14th, Bastille Day, the Louvre offers free admission as well. What better way to celebrate the French Revolution than by admiring some of the nation’s finest art for free?

Check the Musée de Louvre’s site for additional opportunities for a prix-free art fix.

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Last week, Paris’ office of tourism announced that 69 million tourists visited the city’s attractions in 2006. Yowsa. And what were the most popular sights?

• First place: Notre Dame — 13.5 million visitors graced the cathedral, up from 13 million in 2005.
• Second place: Basilica de Sacre Coeur in Montmartre — 10 million visits, up from 8 million in 2005.
• Third place: The Louvre — 8.3 million visits, up 10.3 % from 2005.
• Honorable mention: Musee d’Orsey, the 20-year old museum of 19th and 20th Century art, placed seventh with 3 million visits, its highest number ever.

But who are these visitors? The New York Times reports today that the country is aware of the foreign-born demographic packing its museums (occasionally turning the Louvre into a “crowded railroad station”).

President Sarkozy’s government is considering ways to bring the French back into their own cultural institutions, including free admission for les francais. Just don’t bump Mona…

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If you’ll be in the Louvre any time soon, don’t be confused by rather anachronistic installation pieces scattered throughout the museum.

In the Puget and Marly sculpture galleries, contemporary artists have put up resin statues and fake trees next to the marble figures of greek gods. It’s all part of the Counterpoint program, which runs through June 25. This is the third edition of Counterpoint, which features the work of 11 sculptors: Elisabeth Ballet, Richard Deacon, Luciano Fabro, Gloria Friedmann, Anish Kapoor, Robert Morris, Claudio Parmiggiani, Giuseppe Penone, Didier Trenet, Michel Verjux, and Jacques Vieille.

Many museum-goers appear to be annoyed at the juxtaposition of new and old, but we appreciate the impulse to shake things up a little.

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