Djemaa el Fna market in Marrakesh. Photo by Audrey Sykes.

By Audrey Sykes—

Downtown Marrakesh is bursting in flavor, from the colorful riad hotels to the lively and entertaining Djemaa el Fna. It’s easy to be overwhelmed, especially when it comes to dining. To help ease you into dinnertime, here are five things to remember when dining out in Marrakesh.

1. Wash your hands

It’s a given for locals, but visitors often forget—washing hands before meals is an crucial prep move in Morocco. Clean hands mean clean utensils, as many Moroccan dishes are devoured using the right hand. Also, shopping around the busy souk market is a hands-on activity for the millions who drop by; it’s smart to sanitize. Every café and restaurant should have a small sink with soap in the restroom, so lather up before chowing down.

2. Say no to alcohol

Don’t expect a frosty beer selection or fine wine list to pair on every Moroccan menu: Most restaurants do not sell alcohol. However, cocktails and the like can be found in the many bars and clubs within Marrakesh. Luckily, there are a variety of other beverages to choose from (see below).

3. Say yes to mint tea

There will never be a restaurant without hot mint tea on the drink menu, so order one upon sitting down for a cultural nightcap. Fresh mint leaves are brewed best in the intricately decorated silver-plated pots. The pour—a single stream cascading from the spout a half-meter down to the cup—is essential and easily the most impressive performance of the evening. Be aware that Moroccans drop an abundance of sugar cubes into this steamy nip, so get ready for a minty sweet sensation.

4. Shop around

Getting lost in Marrakesh’s souk streets might bring you to a local culinary find, but it probably won’t. It’s best to stick to the busy and bustling areas of the center and surrounding area. Yet, like every city center, there are many over-priced cafés reeling in passersby, so shop around before deciding who will get your business. Do not feel pressured to eat somewhere because someone’s giving an arm tug; look at the menu, the price, and then decide if it’s worth it.

5. How the locals eat (cheaply)

Cheap eats bursting with as many sights as smells are found at the many food tents that open in the Djemaa el Fna by nightfall. Offering everything from snail soup to grilled veggies and other specialties, these small tents are equipped with benches for seating and an open kitchen to watch chefs at work. These open-air restaurants have menus cheaper than other establishments and offer savory dishes in an entertaining atmosphere.

Popularity: 3% [?]

Buying olives at London's Borough Market. Photo by Kulbowski.

By Justin Bergman in London—

If it’s a weekend in London, then it’s market time, no matter what season. Londoners are undeniably proud of their markets and not just because some of them date back to medieval times. The city’s markets are hands down the best places to find bargains, whether you are looking for vintage clothes, artisanal cheeses or bouquets of lilies. They also can’t be beat for people watching, particularly Broadway Market on a Saturday (see below).

So grab an eco-friendly cloth bag (nothing else will do in London), make sure you have lots of cash, and get shopping—here’s my guide for navigating the busy weekend market schedule and making sure you hit the right spots at the right times.

Borough Market

What it’s good for: Food, glorious food.
When to go: Thursdays (11 AM - 5 PM), Fridays (noon - 6 PM), Saturdays (8 AM - 5 PM)
Location: Underneath London Bridge on the Thames at the London Bridge Tube stop.
Website: www.boroughmarket.co.uk

The lowdown: One of the biggest outdoor food markets in the world, Borough Market is a must for any foodie… well, any visitor to London, really. You can find just about anything here: organic meats, gourmet cheeses, fruits and vegetables, unbelievable pork pies, venison burgers, giant cauldrons of Jamaican curries and paellas, and of course lots of sweets. Prices are relatively reasonable, too. Expect to pay about £5-10 for lunch.

Broadway Market

Broadway Market. Photo Mermaid99

What it’s good for: A little bit of everything and the best people watching.
When to go: Saturdays from 11 AM - 6 PM
Location: Broadway Market (it’s a street) in Hackney, East London.
Nearest train stop is London Fields on the National Express overground line (from Liverpool St. Station).
Website: www.broadwaymarket.com

The lowdown: What started off as a small neighborhood market has in recent years started to draw in folks from all over the city to pick up vintage clothes, organic meats and cheeses, artisanal cupcakes, and crafts from local boutiques.

It’s small—just one street—but you can easily while away an afternoon snacking and watching the East End fashionistas strutting up and down the road like it’s a catwalk. Finish off the day with a couple pints at one of the two local pubs—Cat & Mutton or the Dove.

Columbia Road Flower Market

Columbia Road flower market. Photo: Dinoboy.

What it’s good for: Flowers, plus shopping at independent boutiques.
When to go: Sundays from 8 AM - 4 PM
Location: Columbia Road in Hackney, East London. Nearest tube is Old Street.
Website: www.columbiaroad.info

The lowdown: Noisy, crowded and unmistakably London, this market gives you the best flavor of what market day was probably like in Victorian times. The flower vendors try to out-shout each other with their cockney accents and their impossibly low prices: “Ten roses for a fiver! Ten roses for a fiver! Get ’em before they’re gone!”

The other reason to go is the line of cute boutiques, cupcake shops, perfumeries, and art galleries lining the road, many of which only open their doors on Sundays. Be sure to check out Ryantown, where London artist Rob Ryan sells his quirky wall hangings made of cut paper.

Brick Lane

What it’s good for: Vintage and indie designer clothing, exotic foods.
When to go: Sundays from 10 AM - 6 PM
Location: Brick Lane, East London. Nearest tube is Liverpool Street.
Website: www.sundayupmarket.com

The lowdown: Heaving on weekends and as chaotic as East London gets, with vintage clothes sellers, student fashion designers, ethnic food hawkers and locals with all sorts of bric-a-brac spread out on blankets all vying for your attention.

Two spots not the miss: the Upmarket in the Old Truman Brewery (where most of the clothing is found), and the food vendors in the courtyard behind it—you’ll find everything from Sri Lankan to Mauritian to Mexican (spelled “Maxican” by the Chinese stall owners). Don’t waste your time at the Spitalfields Market next door—it pales in comparison to this raucous party.

Popularity: 8% [?]

The Marché Barbès in Paris. Photographs by Theadora Brack.

By Theadora Brack in Paris—

Outdoor food markets in Paris are no small potatoes!

Let’s face it. Open-air market shopping in Paris can look pretty intimidating, even to a shopping enthusiast like myself. Cheapos, I’ve been there. In fact, during my first few months in Paris, I avoided the food market scene altogether, sticking instead to the safe predictability of the supermarché aisles.

But I’ve changed. I have seen “tomates,” “aubergines,” and “haricots verts” in a natural light, and I’m not going back to fluorescent.

Let me show you the way. Here are a few tips (well, a baker’s dozen) for success at any open-air food market. Allons-y!

Which way did they go?

The (sometimes intimidating) market scene.

Throughout Paris, there are 70 roving open-air markets (”marchés volants”) and 15 covered markets. Everyone has their own favorites, though most markets are similarly (and handsomely) stocked with the same basic repertoire of produce, bread, cheese, meat, seafood, spices, and flowers.

What sets each apart from the others are their clientele and neighborhoods. Truth be told, preference for any particular market is usually based on its proximity to one’s apartment. Convenience always trumps whilst carrying a heavy load!

Tips

1. Get the low-down.

They don’t call them “marchés volants” for nothing. The “flying markets” appear only once or twice each week on their assigned market days, sell their goods, and then move on to another neighborhood.

For a full list of open-air markets in Paris, click here. Refer to this list for dates and hours for markets near you.

2. Arrive early.

Hit the scene before the street bands begin to play, because most markets start to shut down around noon. Generally, open-air food markets open at 8 AM and close at 3 PM. Enjoy breakfast at the market with a cup of fresh white goat cheese or a chocolate cravate!

3. Am I late?

Cat Masson at Marché Barbès. Photo by Jeff Hallam

Not a problem. In fact, it could work to your penny-pinching advantage, since the merchants often reduce prices during the last hour.

Prior to rehearsing with folk band “Les Balochiens,” Violiniste Catherine Masson often heads to the frenetic Marché Barbès (just east of metro Barbès-Rochechouart) around 1 PM. Around this time, she explains, “the north African merchants start to sing out their discounts. ‘Petits Poi! Artichauts! Champignons!’ The rhythm and vibration stay with me all day. I get a deal and inspiration. It’s super cool.”

4. Cash and carry.

If you can, organize a small “till” the night before. I usually carry 20 euros in coins and small bills. Most street merchants don’t accept credit cards.

5. Buying for the week? Planning a big soirée?

Better bring a marché caddie or “chariot” (rolling cart), “panier” (basket), or a sturdy sac. During the summer season, Supermarché Champion carries a good-looking fibercloth sack in stylish animal prints for less than a euro. Collect them all!

Fresh lettuce, anyone?

6. I’ve got a new attitude. 

Shopping in France is a social interaction. Julia Child mused that, “If a Frenchman senses that a visitor is delighted to be in his store, and takes a genuine interest in what is for sale, then he’ll just open up like a flower.” What’s more, your relationship with the vendors will really flourish if you give them repeat business. The French value fidelity.

7. Sell! Sell! Then bye-bye!

Time is money for the open-air merchant. Fast transactional turnover is what it’s all about, baby. High-maintenance shopper? Need to know your chicken’s pedigree or the soil temperature where your tomatoes grew? Not that there’s anything wrong with that! But you’ll be better off browsing at a “biologique” (organic) food market, such as Marché Batignolles (Metro Rome or Place de Clichy) or shopping at an individual specialty shop.

8. Mind your Peas and Qs

Learn key French phrases like: ”Combien ça?” (How much is that?), “Je voudrais…” (I’d like), “un morceau de” (a piece of), “s’il vous plaît” (please), “un peu plus” (a little more) and “un peu moins” (a little less).

Also, brush up on your French numbers prior to your trip, since they can be tricky. For example, “quatre vingt dix huit” is 4 x 20 + 10 + 8 = 96. Whew.

9. U can’t touch this (or can you?)

If little plastic baskets or tubs are in reach, it’s usually okay to handle your own produce. An absence of these containers typically signals that the grocer will make the selections for you. And there’s usually a line, whether it’s immediately obvious or not. In any case, as you approach the stall, it’s always a good idea to make eye contact, smile, and say, “Bonjour!” That’s always been my ticket for fast and friendly service.

10. For every season turn, turn, turn.

Cat at the fruit stand. Photo by Jeff Hallam.

Think seasonally! In-season produce and “fromage” tastes better and costs less. Asparagus is best in the month of May, cherries ripen in July, and apples are at their tastiest in early autumn. Meanwhile, keep your eyes peeled for those “soldes” (on sale) signs.

11. Follow your nose.

Don’t let your shopping list call all the shots. You’re better off using all your senses, following your gut, and trying whatever you fancy. Some vendors offer samples, so by all means break one of my mother’s rules: shop while hungry!

12. Big Wheel keeps on turning

There are wheels and wheels of cheeses to please us at every market, and each has its story. “Saint-Nectaire” was a favorite of Louis XIV. The streak of ash in “Morbier” was once intended to keep bugs from landing on it. “Cantal,” one of the oldest cheeses, dates back thousands of years. Locals call it “fourme,” after the wooden form in which it’s made, which eventually gave rise to “fromage.” Each wedge is a taste of France’s legendary past.

13. No market close to your hotel or apartment?

Don’t fret. Most arrondissements have bustling “rues commerçantes” (shopping districts) which have many of the same advantages, if not the same Old World atmosphere.

This has been Theadora Brack! Bon Voyage et Bon Appétit!

About the author and photographer: Theadora Brack is a writer working in Paris. Her fiction has appeared in more than 30 literary publications, including 3AM International, The Smoking Poet, Beloit Fiction Journal, Mid-American Review, and the Haight-Ashbury Literary Journal.

Popularity: 9% [?]

Uncovering treasures at Paris' flea markets

By Theadora Brack

PARIS—Fellow Cheapos, I’ve got a confession to make: I’m hooked on flea markets. I’ve hardly missed a weekend at the flea market in years. I rarely spend more than €20 a visit, but rest assured, I’ve slowly amassed a world-class collection of treasures (which some might call “kitsch”).

Porte de Vanves Flea Market

If you only have time to visit one flea market during your trip to Paris, I’d suggest heading to the The Porte de Vanves Flea Market on Saturday or Sunday morning.  The market stretches for blocks along Avenue Marc Sangnier and around the corner on Avenue Georges Lafenestre on the southern border of Paris.

The Porte de Vanves market isn’t dirt-cheap, but you can bargain, the “coolness quotient” is pretty high, and even just looking is plenty of fun.

The city’s flea markets were started in the late 19th century by the infamous “rag and bone men” (forerunners of today’s “dumpster divers”), and today you’re likely to find anything from trinkets to treasures.

On a typical trip, you’ll probably spot plenty of plastic key chains,   postcards,  religious tokens, and old magazines. But you might also uncover vintage designer clothes, agate cigarette holders, swanky barware, retro bistro tables, ancient archaeological treasures, and perhaps even a genuine Old Masters (even the occasional world-class find—Monet’s, Utrillo’s and Cocteau paintings, have been known to pop up here from time to time!).

Tips for flea market success

Here are a few tips to get the most out of the experience and make the most of your hard-earned euro:

1. Arrive early.

The Porte de Vanves flea market opens at 7 AM on Saturdays and Sundays and the dealers start packing up to leave at noon. An ATM is located near the “Boulevard Brune” exit from the Porte de Vanves Metro, and just around the corner on the way to the market is a patisserie where you can grab a flaky, heart-shaped palmier for breakfast.

2. Carry cash.

If you can, organize a small “till” the night before. I usually carry €30 in coins and small bills.

3. Know some key phrases in French.

Practicing some key phrases like “Combien ça?” (How much is that?) and “Accepteriez-vous une euro?” (Will you take one euro?) will carry you far.

Keep a sense of humor and don’t be afraid to walk away if the dealer won’t budge. Chances are that he’ll counter offer before you get far. It also helps if you learn French numbers prior to your trip. (Of course, this will help outside the flea market, too!)

4. Bring along a sturdy bag.

Grocery stores like Champion sell lightweight fiber-cloth bags in bright colors for less than a euro and they last for years.

5. Arrive with a mission.

It’s great to have a “quest” in mind, since visualization helps narrow your hunt while increasing your chances of finding the object of your desire.

6. Pace yourself.

Don’t buy the first thing you see, since you may spot a cheaper, similar item later on. And don’t dawdle—the market stretches for about eight or ten blocks. When you get to the snack wagon on the corner you’re halfway. You can always go back and snag something if it’s still calling your name on the way back.

7. Look for the bargain tables.

These are usually marked with hand-written signs like, “TOUT À €1 CETTE TABLE.” (Anything on the table for one euro.)

8. Boast about your bargains.

Last week I found a gorgeous hand-painted Venetian tray for €2. Tell me what you find! Bon chance!

Practical Info

Marché aux Puces de la Porte de Vanves (Porte de Vanves Flea Market)
Metro: Port de Vanves, line 13
Days and hours: Every Saturday and Sunday 7 AM—1 PM

Other flea markets

Since the Porte de Vanves market is open only on weekend mornings, hit it before trying the other markets. If this only whets your appetite, hop on the 95 bus near the patisserie and ride it clear across Paris to the Porte de Clignancourt flea market, which stays open till 7 PM. Or visit the Clignancourt or Porte de Montreuil fleas on Monday.

About the author: Theadora Brack is a writer working in Paris. Her fiction has appeared in more than 30 literary publications, including 3AM International, The Smoking Poet, Beloit Fiction Journal, Mid-American Review, and the Haight-Ashbury Literary Journal.

Popularity: 18% [?]

Krakow’s Market Square. Photo by Lars K. Jensen

People of Cheapo: low-priced communist-era souvenirs are legal for export from Krakow. After all, nothing will help you commemorate your trip to the city quite like a piece of Cold War nostalgia.

Collectables for comrades

Multiple open-air markets around the formerly-communist Krakow are a feast for bargain-hunters. Medals, pins, and statuettes featuring the many faces of Lenin can be found at affordable prices.

The Old Kleparz Market is nearest to the city center. On Tuesday and Friday, you’ll find interesting old trinkets for sale. (On other days, the market sells food, flowers and clothes.)

The vendor scene on Grzegorzecka Street near the Market Hall is the busiest in Krakow, and you’ll find books and unearthed antique treasures every Sunday. (On other days, you’ll find meat, fruits and vegetables for sale.)

More vendors sell their wares at the Tomex Market in Nowa Huta, while Krakow’s antique dealers are mainly located around the Platy gardens.

Note: Although we recommend picking up some cheapo communist bric-a-brac, especially valuable antique items predating 1945 are illegal for export without special permission. However, items of lesser value from this period are not only safe for export, but plentiful.

While you’re at it…

Hit the Propaganda Pub, located at 20 Miodowa, for a beer. The walls are covered and the tables are chock full of communist memories.

Also see: Our recommended budget hotels in Krakow, along with our review of the Good Bye Lenin Hostel.

Popularity: 13% [?]

The San Lorenzo market in Florence. Photo by Madame’s Travels

Florence is a hot spot for fashion, but that doesn’t mean tourists have to pay high prices for ready-to-wear souvenirs. In fact, quality clothing and accessories can be found for only a few euros at a number of outdoor markets in Florence.

Fashion in the streets of Firenze

The outdoor Mercato Nuovo, the “Straw Market,” buzzes daily beneath a gorgeous multi-block loggia in central Florence. These vendors sell high-quality leather items, straw bags and hats, scarves, and wallets (not to mention those mini-David statuettes and cooking aprons!). We suggest smaller, cheaper, and easy-to-pack items. The Mercato Nuovo is located at the intersection of Via Calimala and Via Porta Rossa.

Less picturesque, the outdoor market at San Lorenzo is an easier place to haggle with sellers. Expect crowds, barking vendors, the smell of leather, and a mix of quality and shoddy goods. This market is popular with tourists, locals, and pickpockets, so keep a watchful eye.

While you’re at it…

Take home some Italian shopping bags. A regular old plastic bag transforms into a high-class fashion statement when “Firenze” is stamped across it.

Also see: Our guide to budget hotels in Florence.

Popularity: 14% [?]

Amsterdam is fertile ground for free and almost-free souvenirs. While floral bouquets don’t travel well on an airplane (and may not be allowed!), seed packets and bulbs are both easy to pack, travel well, and will blossom back home. Plus, they’re totally cheap.

(Please note: US Customs doesn’t want American tourists bringing home just any old bulb or seed, of course. The agency carefully regulates what agricultural items it allows back into the States. When seed shopping, make sure you choose items labeled as “cleared for US Customs.” See comments below for more information.)

Tulip mania peaked in Amsterdam during the city’s 17th-century golden age, sowing the scene for today’s fragrant flower markets, or Bloemenmarkt. We recommend visiting two of the city’s flower markets.

The Aalsmeer Flower Auction

Every morning, the Bloemenveiling Aalsmeer, or Aalsmeer flower auction, takes place in nearby Aalsmeer, 10 km south of Amsterdam. The fast-paced auction gives tourists an introduction to the global flower market, as 19 million flowers get bought and sold daily, before being shipped worldwide. Try picking up some sample seeds or bulbs at the market for a cheapo souvenir.

Bloemenmarkt

The Floating Flower Market, or Bloemenmarkt, is in full bloom every day along the Singel canal. The market, held in barges floating along the Singel, is the place to find thousands of seed packets, bulbs, and cut (and dried) flowers for mere euros.

Even if you don’t plan on bringing any seeds home, you might also consider swinging by the Bloemenmarkt at night, as the shops are closing up and eager owners slash their prices on cut fresh flowers. After all, couldn’t your hotel room use a little sprucing up?

More information on Amsterdam Flower Markets

Aalsmeer Flower Auction
Driekolommenplein 1. Open Monday through Friday, from 7:30 AM to 11:00 AM. The best time to go is between 7:30 AM and 9 AM.

Amsterdam Bloemenmarkt
Daily between Koninsplein and Heiligeweg.  Monday through Saturday, 9 AM - 5:30 PM, Sunday 11:00 AM - 5:30 PM.

See also: Our guide to recommended budget hotels in Amsterdam.

Editor’s Note: This is the first post in our “Cheapo Souvenirs” blog series. Join us over the next four weeks as we suggest one cheap or free souvenir to bring home from each city we cover on EuroCheapo. Do you have a suggestion for another cheap souvenir in Amsterdam? Leave a comment below!

Popularity: 20% [?]

Photo by denkrahm

Naschmarkt is a popular market place in Vienna. You can purchase almost everything at the Naschmarkt, from fresh fish and shrimps to Asian soy sauce to Italian cheeses and uncooked ham. Despite and because of the sheer variety—and in no small part as a result of the hoards of tourists streaming through—you can’t help feeling ripped off at the Naschmarkt. Case in point: We’ve seen furniture for sale at prices that exceed those at first-class antique galleries in the First District.

Make no mistake about it, the Naschmarkt is a must-see for natives and tourists alike. It is alive, it breathes, and it reeks of marvelous scents and colors.

May brings a bunch of (cheaper, we hope) alternatives to the Naschmarkt.

On May 11, 2007, from 9 a.m. until noon, Vienna’s lost and found department hopes to find sellers who will take home several things—from clothes to books—that their owners have forgotten somewhere and then never fetched from the Zentrale Fundservice, at Bastiengasse 36-38.

Fernwärme Wien, Vienna’s energy company, holds a secondhand extravaganza at their compound, May 12, 9 a.m. through 5 p.m., at Spittelauer Lände 45.

The leading Austrian old-fashioned children’s store Spielzeugschachtel, which specializes in wooden and hand-crafted toys, holds a two-day flea market on May 25 and 26, at Rauhensteingasse 5.

Our advice: Be wise and enjoy.

Popularity: 10% [?]