Entrance to Sforza Castle in Milan; Photo by Bernt Rostad

Despite Milan’s reputation as the center of the fashion universe, the capital of Italy has plenty of (non-Gucci related) attractions for Cheapos to explore. Take, for instance, the Sforza Castle, or the “Castello Szforesco,” as it is known in Italian.

This impressive structure was built by the Sforza family in the 14th century to replace the Visconti Castle after it was destroyed. The Sforza castle played an important role in the history of Milan, serving as a fortress and barracks during various military confrontations. Napoleon seized the castle in May 1776 and it remained under French rule until 1799. The castle was soon back in French hands, when Napoleon defeated the then-ruling Austrian army. The castle was restored after the unification of Italy in 1861, with the help of the renowned architect Luca Beltrami.

Today the castle is best known for the civic museums it houses. Among the items on display are Michelangelo’s last sculpture, the Rondanini Pieta, and da Vinci’s Codex Trivulzianus manuscript. Besides the museums and its stately towers, the castello boasts a beautiful garden and the original moat that surrounded medieval Milan.

You can browse the castle grounds for free, though museum admission costs €3. Afraid you can’t afford to glimpse the works of your favorite Renaissance artists? Never fear: if you stop by between 4:30 pm and 5 pm (between 2 pm and 5:30 pm on Fridays), you’ll get into the castle museums liberare! (Who says being late is always bad?)

The Castello Szforesco is open daily from 7 am to 6 pm in winter, and 7 am to 7 pm in summer. Take the MM1 Cadorna to Cairoli or the MM2 Cadorna to Lanza. Visit the castle’s official site for more info.

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Milan’s Duomo by night; photo by Panorama

Milan, home to Leonardo da Vinci’s The Last Supper and the unique Sforza Castle, loves to put on a good show! Er, trade show, that is.

In Milan’s “in” season, during the fashion weeks and the leather shows - and when it seems the Milanese host expos on everything from real estate to food - hotel rates go up, up, and away from a comfortable budget.

But, don’t worry, though Milan can get very pricey, it has its off-peak moments. With a little planning, you can snag great rates on some primo budget hotels and enjoy a fantastico trip to Italy’s “second” capital.

First, do some research.

Many of Milan’s trade shows are annual affairs, meaning they are organized and planned well in advance. Check out web sites like that of the Fiere (”Fair”) commission of Milan for up-to-date listings of the events.  The most recent calendars can be found here, plus info on all the various shows.

For more of the exceptions (who knew that the hemotologists like to get together in October?), visit the Fiera Congress’s site. The most up-to-date calendar can be found here. Plan your dates accordingly so you can bypass them completely.

July is a great month, so is December.

You’ll find, while doing your research, that many of the fairs, conventions, and shows occur during five to ten specific months each year. (February through June offer most of them, and there are less between August and November.) In this way, the Milano Turisimo board has made sure that regular ol’ Cheapo tourists like us can still have a chance to visit this expansive, historic city without losing too many euros.

Read up!

Once you’ve decided to head to Milan, take a look at our brand spankin’ new guide to the city. We’ve included budget tips and much more. (Did you know that you can see a horse sculpted by Leonardo da Vinci for free?)

Then, take a look at our picks for best budget hotels in Milan.

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Fired up! Ready to go! Photo courtesy of an agent

Yes, we did!

On Tuesday, January 20th, 2009, Barack Obama will be sworn is as the 44th U.S. President and the world will be watching!

We’ve put together a list of places hosting inaugural day events in Europe.

As we said on Friday, the inauguration should be available in high-def at many locations, so if a bar or cafe has a television and gets satellite cable, you should be able to check in on the Washington, D.C. action.

As usual, let us know if you still need to find a place to watch the event.

Signed, sealed, delivered - again!

In Paris: The American Church in Paris hosts a prayer service at 7:30 PM followed by a viewing of the inauguration (one hour behind the live events) and a wine and cheese reception. Stop by and you might just see our Ed-in-Chief Tom Meyers! More info is here. You can also email Arlene Gross, the coordinator of the event, at arlbru2004@yahoo.com

For more ideas on where to hang your hat on inauguration day, check out this great forum on the Fodor’s Paris site. Other ideas include the Havane Cafe, at 70 Bis, Boulevard Auguste Blanqui (near Place d’Italie).

UPDATED: There’s an event at Carr’s Irish Restaurant and Bar (1 Rue du Mont Thabor). It begins at 4:30. The venue promises live coverage from CNN, via two large screen television sets. For further information, visit their web site.

In addition, a group of Democrats Abroad folks will gather to watch the inauguration at The Highlander pub (8 rue Nevers, across from the Pont Neuf).

Finally, if you really want to get your Obama-yes-we-can-can groove on, start out with the group of revelers organizing an event at Le Queenie (5, rue de Berri) for drinks, conversation, and to watch the inauguration. Then, head over to Queen nightclub (102, Avenue Champs Elysees). For info and to RSVP, email obama.obamaparisinauguration.p@gmail.com  

Note: According to the Paris Expat Meetup group, the American Library also has inauguration events planned. More info here.

In Berlin: Our friends over at BootsnAll first broke the news that Berlin would be partying down on inauguration eve. As they so aptly reminded us, it was Mr. Obama himself who said, “People of Berlin, people of the world, this is our moment. This is our time.” Rock on! Head to Goya Nightclub for an evening of celebration or head to the Amerika Haus, where they’ve been celebrating Black History month for weeks already. Check out what they have planned here.

In Salzburg: An event is planned at the Hotel Stein (Giselakai 3-5). All are welcome, including children, but RSVPs are a must. Go here for more info. You can also contact Contact Mary Ann Balko-Koch at 0664 59 23 408.

In Vienna: There’s a big event planned at the Badeschiff (Donau canal between Schwedenplatz and the Urania in Vienna’s first district). The official invite can be downloaded here.  Live jazz music wil be provided. There’s a €5 optional donation. The reservation process officially closed on January 16th, but we recommend still trying to get in. Email: events@democratsabroad.at for more info.

In Brussels: There’s an event at the Hilton Brussels (38, Boulevard De Waterloo). Reservations are required. Email chair-be@democratsabroad.orgby today for info and to reserve your spot.

In London: A host of events are planned in Her Majesty’s great city. For a list of a bunch of them, visit Time Out London’s web site. Might we recommend the “Bye George” comedy celebration at the Southbank Centre on the evening before Obama takes office? By George, now that’s a pleasant thought!

For a real down-home feel, check out what the Chicago Rib Shack has planned. Just for the record, this is exactly where the other resident Cheapos would be if on the other side of the pond next week! They’re in Knightsbridge, near Harrods. For more info, email info@thechicagoribshack.co.uk

In Amsterdam: One of our favorite places to catch great entertainment and share laughs, Boom Chicago, has lots of fun stuff on the docket Tuesday night. Get in the mood earlier with a comedy show called, “Bye Bye Bush!”. For more information on the inaugural fest, go here.

UPDATED: If you’re in the Groningen area, head over to Wijkcentrum Het Floreshuis for pizza and revelry. Events start at 5 p.m. and the food and drinks are cheaply priced. More info: demsfungroningen@gmail.com

Also, check out the Democrats Abroad Netherlands site for up-to-date celebration info.

In St. Petersburg: Fellow Cheapo “Liz” suggests trying the folks at the Grand Hotel Europe, where events are planned. Contact: desk.concierge@grandhoteleurope.com

In Barcelona: This comes courtesy of ‘toshmon’ who commented via our earlier inauguration blog post.

“For Barcelona, information from http://www.amersoc.com/

“When: January 20th from 5 pm to 11 pm (entry at 4:30 pm)
Where: Le Meridien Hotel, C/ La Rambla, 111
Price: 15 euros
What’s included: Live coverage of the swearing-in ceremony on a big screen tv, live music, tapas, beer, wine, soft drinks.

“Make sure to RSVP to admin@amersoc.com and stop by Hotel Le Meridien to pick up your tickets in advance to avoid standing in line at the registration desk on day of the event.”

Thanks for posting ‘toshmon’!

In Granada: Democrats Abroad group will be convening at Paddy’s Irish Pub (on calle Santa Escolastica). Further directions to the venue, info, and more are available here.   The event begins at 4 p.m. and doors open at 3 p.m.

In Athens: The Democrats Abroad hosts an event at the Hardrock Cafe (18, Filellinon). Contact is Alexis Vasilakopoulou (ph: 210 325 2758). For more information, visit the event’s site.

In Madrid: The Hotel Intercontinental offers an event hosted by Democrats Abroad Madrid. The event is private, meaning you must RSVP, but all are welcome and entrance is free of charge. The hotel is at Paseo de la Castellana 49. More details here.

If you’re interested in a more fancy affair, check out this gala event that’s planned in Madrid.

In Rome: We were only able to track down information for the Democrats Abroad event at the Radisson SAS hotel. As of press time on Friday, the event was full. Please comment here if you’re in Rome and know of other events. Thanks!

In Milan: There’s an event at the Fiori Oscuri Bistrot (Via Fiori Oscuri 3, in Brera). All are welcome and there’s no entrance fee. Free copies of the International Herald Tribune will be distributed. For more information, contact Maria Lassila (maria.lassila@gmail.com).

Other suggestions: Check out sites like Democratic Underground, your city’s local Expat Meetup site, or Democrats Abroad for ideas.

Where will you be?

Tell us where you plan to watch the inauguration. Please include city, venue, and relevant contact info. Thanks!

And, go Obama!

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The Caffè Miani Zucca In Galleria in Milan.

By Jenna Weiner

In Milan, where fashion is king and wispy models are its princesses, the all-you-can-eat buffet is the last kind of dining experience that comes to mind. Yet the two can coexist in blissful harmony, for Milan is the home of the aperitivo—a tradition that takes the concept of the buffet to an entirely new level.

“Aperitivo,” the rich uncle of the “Happy Hour,” is the beloved Milanese tradition of pre-dinner drinks accompanied by complimentary “stuzzichini,” or appetizers. Derived from the Latin “aperitivus,” or, “to open,” aperitivo is meant to open the appetite and tease the taste buds, previewing the delights of dinner.

The typical spread can be something as modest as olives, cheeses and potato chips to something as overwhelming and awe-inspiring as pasta dishes, pizza slices, bruschetta, meats, sautéed vegetables and fruit salad. Unlike the American happy hour, drinks are the regular price or slightly more — but come with unlimited admission to the food bar. The usual aperitivo starts at 6 or 7 PM and lasts until 9, and as little as one drink—alcoholic or not—can be your ticket to one of the most delicious secrets in Italy.

Do as the Milanese do…

Although it is entirely possible to make an entire free dinner of aperitivo, the real test is to act like the Milanese, who delicately graze through the line, giving the food the respect it deserves.

As an American student studying in Milan, amazed by the delicious food and blindsided by the dismal exchange rate, my fellow expats and I were not so sophisticated. We would dash to the food immediately after the waitress walked away with our drink order, returning with our hands guarding our heaps of food, poised to catch the last piece of focaccia from falling to the ground. The locals, still dressed in their crisp and stylish work attire, would watch us with amusement as they nibbled at the vegetables and cheeses, then sampled the more elaborate dishes.

After all, the Milanese have had time to perfect their technique. With roots in ancient Rome and more direct ancestors in the 1800s, aperitivo is a well-established Italian tradition, particularly in Northern Italy. The modern aperitivo began to take shape in the 1920s in Milan—the city became known as “the capital of aperitivo” as the tradition gained popularity—and consisted of drinks of Campari or similar bitters, accompanied by simple snack foods such as olives or nuts.

Since then, the food selection has exploded in size, and the drinks are no longer limited to traditional “aperitif” liquors—bitters, prosecco, martinis and white wine—though they still remain the most popular choices, with the decisive winner being the Negroni (1 part Gin, 1 part Campari, 1 part Sweet Vermouth). Through it all, the social essence of the aperitivo tradition has remained its unchangeable core.

“Aperitivo offers a moment of relaxation at the end of a day at work, where you can allow yourself the pleasure of conversation paired with the pleasure of good food,” says Grazia Mannozzi, author and professor at the University of Insubria, just outside Milan. “It is especially successful due to the pleasant climate of our country and the Italian passion for socializing,” she says, “as can also be seen in the ‘passeggiare’ tradition, in which people stroll in the piazzas and the main streets of the cities in the evening.” Mannozzi attends aperitivo approximately once a week, but says she knows of many people who attend far more frequently (“especially those without children to make dinner for!” she adds).

So many aperitivo options

The possibilities for aperitivo are endless. Walk into any neighborhood café and you’ll find a dozen tables crammed with friends and family, laughing and talking excitedly, very rarely sitting; standing for the excitement of a story, mingling with friends at other tables, passing along the bar filled with steaming plates and bowls.

Pick: Bar Tender
Piazza Morbegno (intersection of Via Varanini and Via Venini)

Bar Tender is our pick for “neighborhood bar.” Drinks are anywhere from €5.50 for a regular drink to €8 for a large drink. Service is prompt and friendly and the food selection is legendary—many Milanese claim it is the largest they have seen in the city. With various types of focaccia, pizza, and pasta dishes (and with servers that bring the plates around to the table to serve you seconds), you may find it difficult to wait until 9, when they clear the bar to make room for the delicious desserts.

Brera

Head to Brera, the artsy, bohemian district, and meander along its cobblestone streets where you’ll find friends, looking effortlessly hip with their colorful scarves, lingering over their white wine in the ivy-climbed patio cafés.

Pick: Radetzky Café
Via Largo La Foppa, 5

Drinks average about €8, and the buffet has all the elements of a standard aperitivo spread, yet nothing more. You pay, however, for the experience—considered one of the trendiest bars in Brera, this is the place to see and be seen. And its location in the primarily pedestrian-only streets of Brera guarantees that the party flows outside on warm nights, accumulating crowds of patrons drinking and smoking around the picturesque bar.

Navigli district

Care to have a drink in Venice? Take a trip to Milan’s Navigli district, where the canals—designed in 1482 by Leonardo da Vinci to import wine, food, and the marble needed to construct Milan’s elaborate Gothic Duomo—still carve through the narrow streets.

Along the still waters, lined with lights, the trendiest bars and restaurants compete for the largest and most exciting stuzzichini selections, as the university students compete with the blaring music. For an even more unique experience, step onto one of the houseboats docked in the canals, which offer aperitivo and often live music. Whether by land or by sea, most of the Navigli hot spots turn their buffets into dance floors later in the evening.

Pick: Slice
Via Ascanio Sforza, 9

Drinks are about €7, and the experience manages to combine an impressive food selection with a fun and trendy experience. You will probably not notice the burnt orange walls, animal prints and knick-knack decorations because you will be too busy filling up your plate. With standard wares such as focaccia, cold cuts, pasta, French fries, and even New York-style pizza, the word has gotten out; arrive by 7 PM at the latest before the line gets out of hand.

Piazza Duomo

For a more classic aperitivo experience, go no further than the heart of the city, Piazza Duomo. There you’ll find the more expensive bars, as they tend to cater to the large percentage of tourists who never stray from that sightseeing epicenter. But be careful—expensive does not necessarily translate into better or more food.

Inside the Galleria di Vittorio Emanuele lies Café Zucca, arguably the home of the aperitivo. A favorite hangout of Giuseppe Verdi and Arturo Toscanini after their performances at La Scala, the legendary opera house next door, “Zucca in Galleria” was owned by the Campari family, who lent their name to the traditional aperitif they invented. Consequently, Zucca is often considered the original aperitivo bar, and wears its history proudly. Though you’ll pay extra for the experience, soak up the historical ambiance as you gaze at the Duomo’s magnificent spires and pinnacles. Weaving in and out through the crowd of tourists, you’ll also hear the clicks of heels echoing along the marble floors as the shoppers pass by with their newly acquired Gucci and Prada treasures.

Pick: Caffè Miani Zucca In Galleria
In Galleria Vittorio Emanuele, in Piazza Duomo

Like few places in the city, Zucca has made a determined effort to remain in the style of the golden days of aperitivo. The keyword here is classic: classic, old-fashioned décor; classic, simple food selection (olives, potato chips and nuts); and classic, original aperitivo drinks (Negroni and the classic Milanese martini are most popular).

You can’t go wrong

With almost every bar and café in the city offering some version of aperitivo, the choices may seem overwhelming. But with obvious variations in ambiance, selection size, and prices, it is easy to select an unforgettable aperitivo experience. Just follow the pace of the Milanese in their leisurely tribute to food and friends; that is, if that new plate of risotto will let you.

About the author:
Jenna Weiner is a senior English major at Georgetown University. She is the former Editor-in-Chief and current News Editor of The Georgetown Independent, where she writes mostly feature articles. A native of Boston, Massachusetts, she travels whenever possible and lived in downtown Milan for four months.

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Nicky Gardner and Susanne Kries of hidden europe magazine report for EuroCheapo on the pleasures and value of European night trains:

Do you know Tczew? Perhaps not. It’s an unexciting sort of spot. Poland, top right, more or less. We had never imagined that we might enjoy a leisurely breakfast of caviar, crackers, and coffee at Tczew. Sitting in a Russian railway carriage, which lingered for an hour or two in Tczew. Waiting for a connection perhaps? Who knows. Night trains are like that.

The pleasures of the night train

Night trains are extraordinary. They rattle past factories and canals, disturb the deer that graze at the forest edge in the evening. In the wee small hours of the night, they screech round sharp curves in some foreign town. A listless child stirs in her sleep in a house next to the railway tracks, while last night’s unwashed crockery trembles on the scullery table. And then the train is gone, an emissary from another world, and silence returns to the unnamed town. Night trains get to places that other trains never reach.

Night trains are the stuff of poetry, but they can also be extraordinarily good value. There is something undeniably civilized about being able to sip a good malt whisky in the evening, as the night train from London to the Scottish Highlands weaves its way out through the northern suburbs of the metropolis. Supper on the train and then to bed in crisp clean linen to awake in the morning as the train climbs up onto Rannoch Moor. Book well in advance, choose the right day, and you can even travel from London to the Scottish Highlands for £l9 (yes, that’s less than $40).

Germany’s new night trains

The Deutsche Bahn, Germany’s national rail network, capitalizes on its location bang in the middle of Europe to run the continent’s most extensive network of night train services. Revamped for the 2008 season, the trains are quiet, comfortable and often a great value. Trains head from Copenhagen or Prague to Basel in Switzerland, from Amsterdam to Milan or Vienna, and dozens of other connections across Europe.

The comfort of the night train is a quiet retort to the frenzy of modern air travel. They’re also an antidote to the breakneck speed of the fastest daytime express trains. Why not try one next time you visit Europe?

Booking a night train

“Special fares apply” says the admonition in the Thomas Cook European Rail Timetable, a monthly publication that is the bible for all savvy rail travelers in Europe. That might imply hefty surcharges. But no, night trains are often cheaper than daytime services. From Switzerland to Denmark overnight in a couchette from just €49 cannot be matched by any discount airline or day train. Choose carefully, and you can travel overnight between European cities in a comfortable sleeping berth for €69.

Most European night trains use a global price system with one all-in charge covering both the train fare and the fee for on-board accommodation. Holders of Eurail and other passes don’t often secure great advantage. The best value all-in fares that Europeans buy locally may cost little more than the supplements that pass holders must pay to secure a couchette or bed. It’s a market which rewards travelers who book well in advance, committing them to traveling on a specific day. Find out more about German night trains, now marketed under the “City Night Line” banner, at www.nachtzugreise.de.

This article is the second of a guest series of summer postings by the editors of hidden europe magazine. Check out the magazine for regular features on European rail travel.

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We suggest taking a look at KLM’s current “Break Away” fare promotion.

It offers decent roundtrip fares between Amsterdam and several European cities: Birmingham, Edinburgh, Geneva, Helsinki, London, Madrid, Manchester, Marseille, Milan, and Paris. The cheapest listed Break Away fare is Amsterdam-Paris, which begins at €147. Afraid of fare creep via undisclosed fees and taxes? Don’t be. These fares include all additional charges.

In most cases, Break Away promotional fares last through November.

Popularity: 6% [?]