The town of Lübeck, not far from Hamburg. Photo by lokenrc.

By Nicky Gardner and Susanne Kries—

It has become fashionable for minor airports across Europe to seek prominence through association with major cities that are often many miles away. And airlines that serve these minor airports, largely because of their cheaper landing fees, are happy to join in the game.

Exploring Allgäu from “Munich West”

Canny Cheapos know that Germany’s Frankfurt Hahn airport is nowhere near Frankfurt. Likewise, one discount airline has now decided that the name “Memmingen Allgäu” airport just does not have the necessary appeal, so styles the airport “Munich West”—slightly to the surprise of folk locally who are all too well aware that their regional airport is not near Munich at all.

The cachet of a big city name has become important. So much so that it obscures the fact that the communities which lie on the very doorstep of those airports are interesting destinations in themselves. The name “Munich West” is misleading, and hides the fact that the Allgäu region, so close to the airport, is a stunning area of Germany well worth visiting.

Discovering lesser known gems in Germany, Italy, and beyond

Girona Airport. Photo: Lorentey

But as airlines and airports create their own mysterious cartographic realities, sensible travellers exploit these secondary airports to visit spots that really are well served by them.

If you fly to what Wizz Air or Ryanair euphemistically call “Hamburg-Lübeck” airport, you will land a long way from Hamburg but happily very close to Lübeck. The medieval center of one of northern Germany’s most historic and engaging towns is just an eight minute train ride away from the airport (which has its own rail station).

And the same argument holds for other secondary airports across Europe. If you are bound for Barcelona, don’t be seduced by the publicity that suggests that Barcelona Girona Airport is close to Barcelona. It is not! But Girona, just twenty minutes away on the bus, is really worth a visit in its own right. It boasts a particularly well preserved medieval Jewish quarter.

Few of those who jet into Orio al Serio airport near Bergamo, Italy have any intention of visiting Bergamo, just a ten minute bus ride from the airport. No, the airlines market the airport for its rather remote proximity to Milan. Yet Bergamo is an absolute gem, and for first-time visitors to Italy an infinitely better introduction to the country than Milan.

Exploit the system

So does anyone really fly to Frankfurt-Hahn on purpose? Well, they should. The out-of-the-way airport, utterly inconvenient for Frankfurt, is just ten miles east of the most beautiful stretch of Germany’s Moselle Valley.

For those in the know, the wayward cartographic fictions of Europe’s discount airlines throw up a few unusual travel opportunities.

Susanne and Nicky run a Berlin-based editorial bureau that supplies text and images to media across Europe. Together they edit hidden europe magazine. You can read more of their writing in their regular e-brief and in the Notes section on their website.

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The Hirschgarten is Bavaria's largest biergarten. Photo by SpaceStation.

By Audrey Sykes–

Aside from the famous two-week Oktoberfest beer bender, brew culture in Munich flows year-round. When the weather is sunny and warm, the locals descend upon Biergartens, although residents often opt for less touristy options than, say, the English Gardens.

Here are three beer gardens that are very popular with Munich’s locals, all of them ready to pour one-liter drinks and dish up hearty meals.

Taxisgarten
Taxisstraße 12
Hours: 10 AM – 11:30 PM
U-Bahn station: Gern

The Taxisgarten biergarten has been serving 1,500 guests at a time in it’s outdoor garden in Western Munich since the 1920s when a group of World War I veterans started the establishment. The place pours both well-known Spaten pils and Franziskaner weiss beers, and offers tradition Bavarian goods like spare ribs and radishes dabbed with avocado cream. Getting there is a bit of a trek, but well worth the effort, as Taxisgarten is a staple for locals and an unforgettable spot for visitors.

Augustiner biergarten. Photo by Nitot.

Augustiner biergarten
Arnulfstrasse 52
Hours: 11:30am – 11:30pm
S-Bahn stations: Hauptbahnhof or Hackerbrücke

Conveniently situated beneath a canopy of chestnut trees near Central Station, the 8,000-seat Augustiner biergarten is a hidden treasure offering beer and food at reasonable prices. Their obadza cheeseball with brazen is a mouth-watering salty match, although all of the food is a smorgasbord of yummy traditional grub. The beer, Augustiner, is from Munich’s oldest brewery and has been proclaimed the “state’s best beer” twice over.

Hirschgarten
Hirschgarten 1, 80639 München
Hours: 9am – midnight
Getting there: S-Bahn station Laim

Hirschgarten (”Deer Garden”) is not only Germany’s (and possibly the world’s) largest biergarten, but also a unique opportunity to drink a beer in the company of deer. Located in a green pasture home to many deer, the animals shuffle about, offering a unique Bavarian photo-op. As the beer garden can accommodate (unbelievably!) up to 8,000 people, a seat is always easy to snag. Happily, the beer is also uber cheap, and you’re sure to mingle with a Munich crowd. Grab a wurst and a beverage, and be sure to check out the nearby Nymphenburg palace to polish off a perfect weekend afternoon.

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Face the Oktoberfest crowds with confidence. Photo by Joachim S. Müller.

By Audrey Sykes in Munich—

Six million people rush to Munich for Oktoberfest each year to guzzle beer out of giant mugs. This cultural experience known for delicious brew can easily bring confusion or headaches (or both) for tourists attending the event for the first time.

I’ve spent the past two weeks in Munich watching the city prepare for, and then celebrate, Oktoberfest. Although the festival continues through October 4, 2009, I’ve already taken some notes for getting the most out of the festival next year. Simply follow these five tips:

1. Come in September

The most common misconception is that Oktoberfest runs in October. While that makes sense to the rest of the world, the festival is meant to “bring in” October, so it runs the last two weeks of September. To be exact, Oktoberfest begins the second-to-last Saturday of September and lasts for two weeks. This year, 2009, it runs through October 4.

2. Bring only what you want to spend

Between beers hovering around €10 and not-so-cheap grub, it is scarily easy to drop €50 in one day. Make a daily budget and stash the rest of your cash somewhere far, far away: you’ll thank yourself later. Of course, ATMs are always available for emergencies.

3. Pace yourself

A stein is one liter… period. That’s about three cans of beer, each with almost six percent alcohol, by volume. Remember this: it’s all about knowing your limits. Eat a giant soft pretzel (”Bretzel”), drink a half-liter water (”Wasser”). Whatever happens, just remember to pace yourself to survive a demanding day full of beer-drinking.

4. Bring your camera for cheap souvenirs

Legally acquire souvenirs. After all, stealing a stein can cost you thousands of euros, and stealing a kiss can cost you a fat slap on the face! Common Oktoberfest souvenirs are costly t-shirts and cheaply made trinkets. Photos are the best way for cheap memories—the festival brings endless photo-ops and camera theft isn’t a common occurrence.

5. Know how to score a tent seat

Never use the main entrance during busy times. Some people wait in line for hours, not knowing that the side and back entrances are crowd-free. Larger groups should split up on busy nights and rendezvous when things get a bit more spacious. When zoning in on seats, make sure the table you find is not reserved.

Bonus tip: Hit the loo early on

Lines for the toilet can be ridiculous, especially on weekends. Head to the W.C. as soon as you feel the need: chances are you’ll have to wait in line. Toilets are in tents, on the terraces, and in between tent zones.

About the author: Audrey Sykes hopped across the pond from the US three years ago for a Masters degree in global journalism. Since then, she’s lived all over Europe, reporting and editing for music sites, snowboard mags, and travel media.

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Prost! Photo by Joachim Mueller.

By Tom Meyers—

It’s kick-off time for Oktoberfest, that free-flowing celebration of German beer and sausage that happens every fall in Munich. The Munich tourism board calls the celebration the “biggest public festival in the world”—so we hope that you booked your rooms well in advance! (If not…)

Before you grab your favorite stein and head for Bavaria, test your Oktoberfest knowledge with our Oktoberfest Quiz:

1) When does Oktoberfest take place this year?
a. September 19 – October 4, 2009
b. October 1-17, 2009
c. October 1-31, 2009
d. October 16-November 3, 2009

2) How many official beer tents will you find at Oktoberfest?
a. 6
b. 9
c. 14
d. 32

3) How much does it cost to visit the beer tents?
a. They’re free.
b. €3 per tent
c. €5 per tent
d. €10 per tent

4) The locals refer to “Oktoberfest” as…
a. “Biertrinkenfest”
b. “Festenbier”
c. “Braufest”
d. “Wiesn”

A nice keg. Photo by StrudelMonkey.

5) Each year, how many visitors attend Oktoberfest?
a. 1 million
b. 3 million
c. 4 million
d. 6 million

6) How many liters of beer are downed each year?
a. 850,000
b. 1.5 million
c. 5 million
d. 25 million

7) Which of these is NOT a beer tent at Oktoberfest?
a. Spatenbräu-Festhalle
b. Currywurst-Festhalle
c. Hackerbräu-Festhalle
d. Löwenbräu-Festhalle

8 ) The beer tents are run by:
a. “Bosses”
b. “Landlords”
c. “Chiefs”
d. “Riflemen”

9) According to “Interesting Facts and Figures” by the tourism office, 4,000 items were reported lost by attendees in 2007. Which of these was NOT on the list?
a. 200 mobile phones
b. 260 pair of glasses
c. 2 crutches
d. 1 set false teeth

10) Beer tents don’t start serving beer until…
a. 7 AM
b. 10 AM
c. Noon
d. They never stop serving.

Answers:

1) A. Sept 19-October 4. Ironically, Oktoberfest takes place almost entirely in September.

2) C. 14 tents. Here’s a list.

3) A. They’re free. But you have to pay for the beer and sausage.

4) D. “Wiesn”. Read the charming story behind the name.

5) D. 6 million. And it gets bigger every year. Here are the stats.

6) C. 5 million. Remember—some attendees don’t drink (like, say, children).

7) B. Currywurst-Festhalle. But it should be.

8 ) B. “Landlords” run the beer tents.

9) D. False teeth. Or at least they weren’t reported lost.

10) B. You’ll have to wait until tents open at 10 AM (9 AM weekends).

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Imagine our glee when, clicking about the Munich tourism office’s website, we stumbled upon their list of Munich-based webcams! Among the list of live feeds from Munich were several devoted entirely to the Christmas market at Marienplatz.

Ready for a quick (virtual) visit? We grabbed the images below at about 5 PM Munich time today. Click them to visit the webcams and see what’s happening now!

I spy Christmas Markets in Munich!

Above, Muenchen.de offers a birds-eye view of Marienplatz, site of the city’s largest Christmas market. At 4:45 PM, Munich time, we spotted a fair number of people visiting booths and an unusually large number of white sedans parked in the market zone. Look at that Christmas tree!

The webcam at Global-Christmas.com nearly brings you down to street level, showcasing many of the buildings lining Marienplatz. This photo, grabbed minutes after the top photo (this one at 4:54 PM, local time), shows night is falling fast and the crowds are turning out.

It also looks like the festive holiday lighting might be too much for the poor webcam, as the image is slightly bleached. One nice thing about Global-Christmas, by the way, is that you can enlarge their webcam for a closer look!

Finally, Marienplatz-Muenchen.de, offers its view of the Christmas market at Marienplatz. This cam is in line with the Christmas tree, looking out from what we’d estimate is the fourth floor. We grabbed this image at 4:58 PM, local time, and you can see that things have gotten darker yet, and perhaps more crowded. (This cam also has a creepy surveillance-camera quality to it, which lends a certain intrigue to the market.)

Check out even more webcams from Munich and our round-up of Christmas markets in Europe. Also, if you’re heading over, be sure to read our list of recommended budget hotels in Munich. 

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Christmas market in Brussels, Belgium-photo by Ipoh 7

‘Tis the season to visit the European Christmas markets, Cheapos!

The Christmas Market Tradition

Europe’s holiday market tradition began in Germany and Austria. Today, many well-known markets, like those in Nuremberg and Munich, draw record crowds. Heck, there’s even a company that specializes in European Christmas market tours around the holidays.

The most popular markets can still be found in Germany and Austria, but cities in our other countries, like Copenhagen, Denmark and Prague, Czech Republic, throw their own festive fairs. Markets typically open during the last week of November and remain open until the day after Christmas.

Here’s a very merry round-up of the most notable Christmas markets In Europe. If you happen to be nearby, we recommend a browse-through.

Salzburg

The annual “adventmarkt,” filled with stalls, good eats, and more, takes place in Julius-Raab Platz. Check out the fantastical “Christkindlmarkt” web site for more info, or simply visit the Salzburg Tourism Info site here.

Vienna

Mozart’s main stomping ground is the veritable creme de la creme for Christmas market gurus. Fairs are open in multiple locations and feature live DJ music, petting zoos, gospel choirs, and authentic handicrafts. Visit the Vienna Tourism Board for info, dates, and directions to the markets.

Munich

Another mother lode when it comes to Christmas markets in Europe, the Munich Advent “markt” is expansive, boasting concerts, traditional food, and free historical tours of the market. The tourism board has more info, including how to get there, and where to park if you’re arriving by car. (Anyone who wants to offer their own caption for the photo that appears on this page, please pass it on. “Nordic vikings attack unsuspecting child at Munich Christmas market“?)

Berlin

Whether you like your markets authentic or chock full of special effects, Berlin’s the place to be if only for the number and sheer size of some of its markets. Most notably, the market in Potsdamer Platz, titled ”WinterMagic,” features a 4,000 square-foot outdoor space with a Ferris wheel, Legoland structure for kids to play in, and more. A comprehensive list of all markets can be found here.

Bonus: Download a FREE PDF history of the markets here, or watch this YouTube video for more info on the tradition of the German Christmas market. You can also visit the ‘markt’ section of the Berlin Tourism site for more info (in German only).

Copenhagen

The largest market can be found in Tivoli Gardens and has become an infamous go-to spot for getting into the spirit. Here, elves in full costume bounce among revelers and the light displays -orchestrated by the lead designer for Tiffany & Co - hang overhead. Games, ornaments, and much more are available. Check out the “Visit Copenhagen” site for info on this and many more Copenhagen markets. 

Brussels

This year, the Christmas market kicks off in Place St. Catherine. Ice skating is available. Be sure to buy some chocolates, and don’t forget to stop to see Manneken Pis in full Santa regalia. The “Visit Belgium” site has more info.

Prague

The Czech city really does it up with major fests in Old Town Square and Wenceslas Square. Smaller fairs occur elsewhere throughout the holidays. Check out the “Prague Experience” site for info, dates, and more.

Stay tuned this week as we take you through the European Christmas market circuit in daily photo montages.

Tell us: And, if you’ve been to a holiday market in Europe, tell us about it! What was it like? What did you buy or sample?

Happy Holidays, Cheapos!

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American Thanksgiving goes largely unnoticed in Europe, so turkeys across the continent are reprieved for another few weeks. But late November brings its own culinary specialities to market stalls and dinner tables across the continent.

Germany engages in a frenzy of goose eating at this time of year. Goose is ushered in on November 11 by St. Martin’s Day, and features regularly on menus right through to Christmas. Other seasonal specialities are Dresdner Stollen, fresh carp and cinnamon biscuits (not, on the whole, all consumed together!).

There has been disquiet in Germany these past days with tourists flying in, particularly from Britain, and getting upset that Germany’s famous Christmas markets are not yet in full swing. Indeed, Christmas markets are a feature of Adventtide which starts only next weekend, and the best of the country’s markets respect that calendrical tradition.

All seasons have their moments, and we’re for keeping Christmas at bay until well into Advent. Meanwhile, warm Thanksgiving wishes from across the pond. We’ll drink a toast to the Mayflower Pilgrims on Thursday.

This post is by Nicky Gardner and Susanne Kries, who together edit hidden europe magazine (www.hiddeneurope.co.uk), which explores people, places and communities across Europe.

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The Alte Pinakothek Museum in Munich. Photo by Clare and Ben

You don’t want to leave Munich without visiting some of the city’s wonderful art, history, and science museums. Aside from traditional museum, visitors to Munchen have no shortage of other sightseeing options, from flea markets to cafes and the Hofbrauhaus.

Here’s our “Cheapo Strategy”: During the week, keep busy with biergartens and Bavarian buildings. But on the weekend, take advantage of the several city museums that charge only €1!

Art on a shoestring

Each Sunday, many of Munich’s best-known museums offer reduced entrance fares to visitors.

For instance, you can tour the Alte Pinakothek’s collection of European art, the modern art at the Lenbachhaus, Roman and Greek architecture at the Glyptothek, and the sculpture and musical instruments at the Bayerisches National Museum’s, each for a small €1 admission charge.

If you want to hold onto every last euro, Munich can be even friendlier on your wallet.

Entrance to the unique collections at the Kartoffelmuseum, the Siemens AG company museum, and the Geologisches Museum are free seven days a week.

While you’re at it

Be sure to check the museums’ websites for any upcoming events. For instance, the Glyptothek, Munich’s museum of classical Roman and Greek art, hosts a “Lange Nacht der Museen” twice a year, when the museum’s doors stay open till 2 a.m.

Tell us: Have any other Munich tourist tips? Add them below!

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Munich is a festival of budget-friendly mementos. The capital of Bavaria is also the home of intricately-designed (and internationally celebrated) glass and porcelain beer steins. Drink up a round of cheapo possibilities.

Souvenirs brewing

On September 27, 1589, Wilheim V, the Duke of Bavaria, decided to build a brewery instead of importing beer from Lower Saxony. He kindly asked the brewmaster from Geisenfeld Monastery to “hops” to it and the rest is brew-story. Hofbrauhaus Munchen is still owned by the state government today.

Not only have the glasses and steins from the city’s famous beer gardens become symbolic of Bavarian culture, but the cheap prices of these symbols are worth toasting.

Beer vessels blanket the Bavarian landscape. Seemingly every airport kiosk, gift shop, and street vendor features a stein or two (hundred). Prices usually start at about $10 USD and climb upward from there, depending on the size, design, and craftsmanship involved.

The question isn’t so much where to find steins as which one to purchase. Will it be the tall one with the metal top depicting a milk maid holding edelweiss? Or, will it be the glass Masskrug sporting the HB logo? To get a sneak peak of some of the steins awaiting you, check out Bavariashop.com’s impressive inventory of 62 steins for sale.

While you’re at it…

Pick up some local items with the ubiquitous Bavarian coat of arms. Napkins, flags, playing cards, and wind sticks can be found around town sporting the blue and white diamond pattern.

Also see: Check out the Hofbrauhaus’ website for information on tours of the brewery and for its exhaustive history of the brewery and explanation of the beer-making process. Also check out our recommended budget hotels in Munich.

Photo above: Beer stein shopping in Munich. Photo by thesheriff

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While visiting Munich, take a break from Wagner and the Biergarten by visiting the Frauenkirche, one of Bavaria’s most beloved Gothic structures. The Frauenkirche (”Cathedral of Our Lady”), a Catholic church located near the city’s Marienplatz square, sports twin domed towers and expansive vaulted ceilings. What’s more, admission is free!

Quick History

Munich’s Frauenkirche has been “in service” since 1488, although bombings during World War II destroyed much of its original facade. The interior boasts paintings spanning five centuries, along with the tomb of Emperor Ludwig IV of Bavaria and other items of interest. (For example, a mark on the church’s floor, known as the Teufelschritt, is said to be the devil’s footprint!)

Visiting the Frauenkirche

The cathedral is open daily, although visits are not permitted during services. (Take the advice of our friends at hidden europe magazine, however, and take part in a service!) The church offers guided tours starting at 2 PM every Sunday, Tuesday, and Thursday. Visitors can climb the towers for a great view, May through October.

For more information, check out the Munich Tourism Board’s official site and the section on the Frauenkirche (more detailed information is available on the site, in German). 

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