Berlin: Memorials on and off the beaten path

Wednesday, March 10th, 2010
The famous Holocaust Memorial in Berlin. Photo by dalbera.

The famous Holocaust Memorial in Berlin. Photo by dalbera.

By Susan Buzzelli—

Between World War II and the Cold War, Berlin has a lot to remember. No wonder dozens of memorials and monuments grace the city. You could spend days tracking down every one of these free-to-see reminders dedicated to bygone events. (The city’s official list of “Denkmäler,” which include buildings, cemeteries, and other locations of historic note, is 941 pages long!)

Here’s a guide to our favorite memorials, including those that are on the well-beaten tourist path and those that are all-too-often overlooked by visitors.

1. Behren Strasse (U/S-bahn: Reichstag or Potsdamer Platz) is the wide avenue that runs alongside the Tiergarten park and connects Unter den Linden to Potsdamer Platz. Behrn Strasse is home to the U.S. Embassy, as well as two World War II monuments.

On the beaten path…

The Memorial to the Murdered Jews of Europe (Ebert Str. & Behren Str.), which is commonly known as the Holocaust Memorial, is a maze of steel gray “stele”, tomb-like slabs, that covers an entire block. Don’t forget to visit the subterranean documentation center for gripping, sobering exhibits about the victims of the Holocaust.

Off the beaten path…

Standing on the edge of the Tiergarten Park (on Ebert Str., between Behren Str. & Hannah-Arendt Str.), the Memorial for Gays Persecuted by Nazis is only a short stroll away from the Holocaust Memorial. Peek through the small “window” on the side of the 13-foot-tall concrete block to see a black and white film that depicts two men kissing. “A simple kiss could cause trouble,” reads the accompanying plaque.

2. Grosse Hamburger Strasse is a long, elegant avenue steps from Hackescher Markt. The street was once a center of Jewish life. It hosted one of the earliest Jewish cemeteries, as well as a home for seniors (marked with a plaque) and a school for boys (now the heavily-fortified Jüdische Oberschule, a school for children of all faiths). Today, the entire street is an open-air memorial to the Mitte’s once-vibrant Jewish community.

On the beaten path…

Will Lambert designed a bronze statue dedicated to the Jewish victims of fascism in 1957. Standing on the site of the long-destroyed Jewish cemetery, on the spot were Jews were deported to concentration camps, the somber memorial depicts a cluster of women and children awaiting their tragic fates.

Off the beaten path…

Installed in 1990 by the French artist Christian Boltanski, the Missing House (once at 15/16 Grosse Hamburger Str.) pays poignant tribute to one of the city’s many voids—in this case, a house that was never rebuilt after its 1945 destruction by Allied bombs. Twelve black-and-white plaques bearing the names, birth and death dates, and occupation of the building’s final residents adorn the facing walls of the two neighboring buildings. It’s a subtle, easy-to-miss tribute.

Continue north on Grosse Hamburger Strasse to reach the quiet, residential square of Koppenplatz. Standing on the northern side is a bronze statue of a table and two chairs, one of which is tipped over onto its back. The Memorial to the Deserted Room, by Karl Biedermann, pays tribute to the many Jews who were forced from their homes. It was installed in 1991.

3. Treptower Park (S-bahn: Treptower Park or Plänterwald) is an expansive stretch of green that runs alongside the Spree river in eastern Berlin. Big with picnickers, dog-walkers, and even boaters, the park is lined with gorgeous “Jugendstil” mansions and apartment buildings that reflect its history as a well-to-do district. It bears two intriguing traces of East Berlin architecture.

On the beaten path…

Occupying a massive swath of green, the gargantuan Soviet Memorial was built by the Soviet Union shortly after World War II to honor the Soviet soldiers who died in the battle for Berlin (1945-1949). Massive marble memorial plaques are overshadowed by the memorial’s focal point–a statue of a Soviet soldier, cradling a German child in his arms.

Off the beaten path…

Schlesischer Busch, a small, scrubby park north of Treptower Park, on the Treptow-Kreuzberg border (Puschkinallee), is home to a former Wachturm (watchtower) that’s been transformed into a small art gallery. Other than the concrete, graffiti-marred tower, there are no longer any traces here of the Berlin Wall that divided the city.

Tell us: Have you been to any of these memorials? Do you have another favorite monument or memorial that you’d like to add to our list? Tell us about it in the comments section.

Popularity: 2% [?]

Rome: Spending Christmas in Rome!

Friday, November 27th, 2009
The Christmas market at Piazza Navona. Photo by Elizabeth Buie.

The Christmas market at Piazza Navona. Photo by Elizabeth Buie.

By Samantha Collins in Rome—

Whether your idea of a good Christmas break is ice-skating under the watchful eye of an ancient castle, sharing midnight mass with the Pope, or simply eating and drinking too much, Rome is the perfect place to indulge and celebrate. So just how should you spend the festive season in Italy’s Eternal City?

The Christmas toy market at Piazza Navona

Along with the usual array of portrait painters, mime artists and peddlers that gather around Piazza Navona at any time of year, come winter you’ll find the Christmas market set up on the square. The famous Piazza is transformed into a child’s paradise with brightly colored wooden toys on display, a traditional carousel, and hot roast chestnut stalls. Look out for Befana the witch, who brings gifts to Italian children on January 6 (Epiphany and Befana’s Feast day).

Attend the Midnight Mass in the Vatican

Every Christmas morning at the stroke of midnight, the Pope delivers his Christmas Mass. Tickets for the mass in St. Peter’s Basilica are free, but must be booked in advance. Visit the Vatican website for information on the mass timetable, which also includes carol services. For those who don’t have tickets, the service is broadcast live on large screens in St. Peter’s Square.

Ice skating by Castel St. Angelo on the banks of the River Tiber

Situated in one of Rome’s most beautiful settings, the Christmas ice rink under the shadow of Castel St. Angelo looks toward St. Peter’s Basilica. What could be more romantic? To get there, take either the Metro to “Lepanto,” or, better yet, take one of the many buses (such as the 30 Express or the 87) to Piazza Cavour.

Nativity scene hunting

Pop your head into any church during December and you’re guaranteed to see traditional nativity scenes on display. From the animals in the stable to the figures bearing gifts to the baby Jesus, these ancient displays are rich in detail and tradition. Don’t miss the huge one in St. Peter’s Square: Each year it has a different theme. Constructed behind curtains over the course of several weeks, it is finally unveiled in mid-December and stays on view for most of January.

Panettone and Torrone

Panettone is the traditional Christmas cake that is given to friends and relatives. Traditionally filled with candied peel, you can now find many other varieties in beautifully wrapped Christmas paper tied with ribbon. For a smaller gift, look out for the torrone, oblong chocolate bars in gift wrapping usually filled with nuts or nougat.

New Year’s Eve

Two of the main gathering places for the adult revelers are Piazza Navona and Piazza del Popolo. Many people also line the banks of the river with glasses of champagne to watch the fireworks. Try to avoid partaking in the other traditional festivity of wading drunkenly into the Trevi Fountain. It is illegal and you may find you start the New Year behind bars, instead of being in front of one.

Transportation during the holidays

Mainline and local services do operate throughout Christmas, but with a very limited service on national holidays (see below). There is a free “shopping bus” that runs between Termini and Via Del Corso during December, but you are better advised to walk than use the public transport. During this period, buses and metros are filled with at least double the capacity of intended passengers, complete with bulky purchases. Visit the Roman transit site for more information.

What’s closed when

Shops are open every day (including Sunday) during the holiday period, except for December 25 and January 1. (Note that Rome’s January sales do not start on the first weekend in January.) Most museums and attractions are closed December 25 and January 1, but are open the rest of the time. (Check online first.) Restaurants generally remain open throughout the holiday period.

Also note that in addition to Christmas and New Year’s, Italians celebrate Feast of the Immaculate Conception on December 8, and St. Stephen’s Day on December 26. However, most shops, restaurants, and attractions remain open on these days.

Popularity: 8% [?]

Amsterdam Camping: Sleep even cheaper in a tent!

Tuesday, May 19th, 2009
Lakes of fun at Amsterdam's Bos campground.

Lakes of fun at Bos campground. Photos by Audrey Sykes.

By Audrey Sykes in Amsterdam—

Travelers who prefer a tent to a hotel room are in luck when visiting green, camping-friendly Amsterdam. Cheap, clean, safe, and relaxing, the city’s campsites serve as a haven for those who wish to indulge in Amsterdam’s city life by day, but retreat to a peaceful, natural setting by night.

Here are my top four picks for pitching a tent in Amsterdam:

Camping Zeeburg
Zuider Ijdijk 20
+(31)(0) 20 6944430
email: info@campingseeburg.nl
website: www.campingzeeburg.nl

Situated just east of Amsterdam, Zeeburg (”Seacastle”) is unique for its beachy location on the nearby island of Ijmeer. Camping Zeeburg is open year-round and serves as a trailhead for a number of hike and bike routes.

Facilities: Supermarket (with fresh baked goods), sanitary facilities, bar, restaurant, washer/dryer facilities, phone booth, bike rental, canoe rental, pool, internet, night security, and BBQs allowed.

Perks: During the high season, the campsite offers a range of daily activities and excursions (including a trip to the petting zoo for the kiddies).

Cost: From €6.50 per person per night. Two, four and six-person furnished cabins are also available. Extra charge for parking.

To Amsterdam: Trams 14 and 26 run frequently and are a 10-15 minute ride from the campground to the heart of Amsterdam. Bus 22 runs during the day, and bus 359 runs at night. By bike it will take about 20 minutes to reach the city center.

Ready to canoe at Bos Campground.

Ready to canoe at Bos Campground.

Camping Het Amsterdamse Bos
Kleine Noorddijk 1
+(31)(0) 20 6416868
email: info@campingamsterdamsebos.com
website: www.campingamsterdamsebos.com

Located inside Amsterdam’s largest protected park, Amsterdamse Bos sits peacefully within 900 acres of natural lakes, canals, and greenery just south of the city. Open year-round.

Facilities: Camping shop with fresh baked rolls, guest kitchen, dining room, lockers, washer, dryer, canoe rental, and BBQs allowed.

Perks: A natural playground for families, the park has unlimited recreational possibilities: canoe and kayak rentals, picnic areas, cafes, and even a woodsy section where buffalo roam!

Cost: From € 5 per person. A variety of cabins and hostel rooms are also available to rent. Parking is free.

To Amsterdam: Bus 172 and 171 runs daily to Amsterdam Central Station, and bus 271 runs through the night. Bus 199 heads from Schipol Airport directly to the campground. Metro 51 stops at Amstelveen, plus a 15-minute walk to the campsite. Biking from the city center takes about 30 minutes.

Vliegenbos
Meeuwenlaan 138
+(31)(0) 20 6368855
website: www.vliegenbos.com

Nestled between 62 acres of woodlands and small fishing harbors to the north of Amsterdam, Vliegenbos is a blend of parks and forests, just a stone’s throw away from the city center. The campsite is seasonal, open from early April through late September.

Facilities: Camping shop, sanitary facilities, lockers, dishwasher, bar, restaurant, washer/dryer, phone booth, bike rental, canoe rental, internet, night security, and BBQs allowed. No dogs.

Perks: Affordable “Dirk van de Broek” supermarket is a short walk away. Nearby parks offer tennis courts, swimming pool, sport fields, and more.

Cost: From €8.30 for a one-person tent. Extra charge for parking.

To Amsterdam: Bus 32 and 33 run daily and are direct to Central Station, and bus 361 runs through the night. By bike, a five-minute ride and a quick trip on the ferry will bring campers to the North end of Central Station.

Gaasper Camping
Loosdrechtdreef 7
+(31)(0) 20 6967326
website: www.gaaspercamping.nl

Located in southeast Amsterdam, Gaasper is Amsterdam’s largest campsite, offering more than 400 plots in scenic spots, including lakes, parks, and woods. Gaasper is open annually from March 15 to November 1.

Facilities: Supermarket, dishwasher, bar, restaurant, phone booth, night security, and BBQs allowed.

Perks: The restaurant provides a cafeteria-style food selection and outdoor terrace.

Cost: From € 5 per person. Parking fees apply.

To Amsterdam: Central Amsterdam is about 20 minutes away via public transportation. Bus 53 runs daily to Amsterdam’s Central Station, as well as Metro 53 and night buses 355 and 357 (weekends) to Gaasperplas Station. A bike ride to the center takes about 20 minutes.

Popularity: 13% [?]

Rome free afternoon: Our four favorite parks in Rome

Friday, April 24th, 2009
A peaceful scene in the Villa Borghese. Photos by Sav D'Souza.

A peaceful scene in the Villa Borghese. Photos by Sav D'Souza.

By Sav D’Souza in Rome—

Rome, like most European destinations, has some delightful parks. Whether you plan to relax after a day on the town, or spend a free afternoon strolling through gardens, sitting by a lake, or picnicking on a park bench,  here are my top parco picks for Rome.

Villa Doria Pamphilj
Via San Pancrazio & Via Aurelia Antica in Monteverde
(Various buses are available, Tram 8, or walk up from Trastevere)

Enter through San Pancrazio Gate and into Rome’s largest landscaped—and public—park, the Villa Doria Pamphilj. Named after two noble Italian families, this marvel sits West of the Tiber and just South of Vatican City in residential Monteverde.

At the park’s center is the Villa Vecchia, here since the 1600s. The park itself offers a host of lovely gardens, intricate statues, a grotto, and fountains. A curvy bridge links up the gardens making this an especially popular destination for jogging and walking dogs.

Napoleon's bust in the Villa Borghese.

Napoleon's bust in the Villa Borghese.

Villa Borghese
Via Veneto
(Metro line A to Flaminio)

A sprawling area of land full of everything from quiet, lush green spaces to famous statues and fountains, the Villa Borghese is perhaps Rome’s most well-known park.  The oasis, completed around 1620, is an ideal venue for taking in some rays.

When you’re done sun bathing, you must check out the Borghese Gallery, considered one of the world’s top private art collections. (Keep in mind you need to reserve a ticket before you gallery-gaze. Adult tickets, to the museum and gallery, are €13.50 plus a €2 booking fee. EU citizens, children, and seniors receive a discount.)

Tip: Check out the carriage racing, every May at the Piazza di Siena.

Gianicolo Park
Trastevere (Walk up Via Garibaldi)

The Gianicolo, in picturesque Trastevere, is at the top of Janiculum Hill and offers unbeatable panoramic views of Rome’s sprawl. It’s a bit of a trek up, but if you can make it, pleasant scenery and unique photo-ops await you. Pack a picnic and make a day of it. For more info, grab a map at the Rome Tourism Office. The walk up to Janiculum Hill and its accompanying park are also clearly marked on most any tourist map of Rome.

Pincio Gardens
Piazzale Napoleone I and Viale dell’Obelisco
(Metro line A to Flaminio)

The Pincio gardens overlook the neoclassical Piazza del Popolo. Although Pincio is slightly wild and unkempt, I still love it for its vivid colors, towering trees, and foliage-filled gardens.  The Pincio remains a local and tourist favorite for sunset watching and afternoon reading—and is considered one of the prettiest places in the Eternal City.

Do you have a favorite park in Rome? Or, know of a secret garden somewhere off the beaten path? Share it in the comment section below.

About the author: Sav D’Souza is a freelance journalist currently based in Rome. He has worked as a journalist in Hawaii, Prague, and London and contributed features to the Guardian, Daily Telegraph, SA Sports Illustrated, Prague Post and CNBC Europe. He is a demon pool player, enjoys a round of golf, playing poker, and the occasional gin and tonic.

Popularity: 8% [?]