Madrid’s Ghost Town: El Escorial

Monday, December 1st, 2008

Approximately 50 kilometers (31 miles) northwest of Madrid, el Escorial still functions as a monastery, school, museum and royal palace. The sprawling historic site first broke ground in 1563, led by the architects Juan Bautista de Toledo and later Juan de Herrera, under the reign of King Phillip II. The architectural project set King Philip’s claim, that Madrid was the seat of the Spanish monarchy, in sculptures, ornate gold, and carved stone.

At the time of Kari’s visit in the fall 2008, the basilica was closed for renovations. However, lucky for dear Cheapos back home, she overturned the ruling (!) and snapped a few photos anyway. Here are some of the highlights of her exploration:

Check out that view.
The view from here, El Escorial, near Madrid, Spain

The statue\'s eye-view
A gorgeous upward view of the old monastery and palace.

Only the Iron Chef could love these.
This wall showcases the original tools used to build the original palace.

Green thumb, anyone?
Fancy gardens in el Escorial show the natives’ green thumbs at work.

Nice suit.
The ornate sarcophagus of Don Juan of Austria, inside the Royal Pantheon. In 1571, the 24-year-old illegitimate son of Charles V led a Christian fleet to victory over the Turks in the naval battle of Lepanto.

Count the sheep.
Sheep grazing in the outer fields of el Escorial.

Hey, do you see the ghost?
The kids seem to be fascinated by the idea of a “ghost town” here.

Popularity: 1% [?]

Stockholm: Changing of the guard, a royal freebie

Wednesday, August 27th, 2008

Stockholm's Guards
Photo by jamieca

While a visit to Stockholm’s Royal Palace (Kungliga Slottet) requires a ticket, the palace’s guards put on a delightful daily floor show that won’t cost you a krona!

The palace is located in the epicenter of Stockholm, perched above the charming island of Gamla Stan. The fact that the royal family no longer resides here shouldn’t dissuade you from visiting, as there are royal apartments, a royal armory, and a museum of antiquities to discover. (The first family lives on another island — Drottningholm, which you may also visit.) These museums, however, are not free.

Stockholm’s Changing of the Guards

The Hogvakten, or “Royal Guards,” are stationed in the palace and feature “Stockholm’s finest boys” (according to Stockholm’s office of tourism). The guard, part of the Swedish Armed Forces, is comprised of 30,000 soldiers. Tourists are invited to watch the daily ritual in front of the palace as one squad of 20 hands over their guardianship to the next squad.

During the summer, the spectacle begins at the Army Museum (Armemuseum, Riddargatan), from which the new squad takes off 30 minutes prior to the palace ceremony. The guards march in snazzy blue uniforms and tight formation to the Royal Palace, often accompanied by a military band. Upon arrival at the palace, they launch into a 35-minute display of precision marching, flag waving, and all-business attitudes.

Hours

The Changing of the Guard takes place every day at the Royal Palace. Monday - Saturday, 12:15. Sunday 1:15. (The parade, with band, occurs only during the summer months.)

More information: Stockholmtown (the city’s official website) and the Royal Palace website.

See also: our recommended budget hotels in Stockholm.

Popularity: 11% [?]

Versailles: Day trip from Paris

Tuesday, May 29th, 2007

Our summer home looks like that too, of course.
Photo by Nick_Salmond

Louis XVI’s castle at Versailles is one of Europe’s most awe-inspiring monuments, not to mention one of the most visited tourist spots on the globe. If you’re joining the masses of tourists on the RER C from Paris out to the castle, be sure to visit Marie Antoinette’s estate while you’re there.

Yes, this fantasy-park (and the mistress who inspired it) became a lot more famous after Sofia Coppola’s 2006 film, but seriously. It was worth a visit even before that. In addition to an entirely charming make-believe peasant village, her estate also includes the two palaces of the Grand and the Petit Trianon, get-aways of Queens and royal mistresses since the 1690s.

To get to the estate,, walk through the gardens of Versailles, turn right half way down the giant reflecting pool. From there the walk takes about 15 minutes. Entrance to the Domaine de la Reine is €9. Entrance to the chateau is free for students of art, art history, architecture, and the like. The fantastic gardens of the chateau are open every day, and totally free except for special festival dates.

Popularity: 9% [?]