Buying train tickets in Venice. Photos by Tom Meyers

Two regular contributors to EuroCheapo respond to a good question posed on our blog.

Victor posted on March 11, 2010:

“Hi, three of us have planned a trip to Europe from 27th June 2010 to the 10th July 2010. Our itinerary will take us from London to Paris, Amsterdam, Rome, Venice, Vienna, Berlin and back to Paris and London.

We wish to travel extensively by rail. Please help us make a schedule that would enable us to touch all or most of the cities as planned above and at reasonably priced rates. We are all adults above 40 years of age and most likely do not qualify for any discounted fares. Please also inform us when and where rail bookings could be done in the UK. Thanks.”

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Reply from Susanne Kries and Nicky Gardner of hidden europe:

Hi Victor,

We cannot help you with all you ask, but we can venture a few comments that will perhaps inform your thinking, as you and your friends plan your journey. In responding to your question, we hope these thoughts will also be of broader interest to folk here on EuroCheapo.

The key thing here is to think very carefully quite what you and your two traveling companions want to get out of your upcoming journey. Is the journey the centrepiece or are your hearts set on getting to know the various cities you plan to visit? We rather sense the latter.

1. Too packed an itinerary

Europe is a lot larger than many outsiders imagine, and your itinerary touches only a small part of western Europe. You have fourteen days for your explorations (including your days of arrival in and departure from Europe). Let’s assume that you spend at least a couple of nights in London after flying in, and you want to be back in London on the eve of your departure. That brings the time available for the round trip through continental Europe down to ten nights.

Taking the fastest trains, your itinerary from London to Rome and back (as specified) would take 75 hours. Are you really thinking of spending six or seven hours every single day on trains? If you use slower night trains, you can sleep from one city to the next, but your 75 hours travel becomes closer to 100 hours.

Our view is that this could so easily turn out to be the trip from hell. Of course, you could use night trains for some legs, but you are still spending much time travelling. At the pace you propose you have only one day to see some cities. Yes, that is do-able, but how much can you see in that time?

Let’s take an example. You could leave your hotel in Rome before 7 AM and be in the middle of Venice in time for lunch. You could sightsee in Venice for the afternoon, and catch a night train at 9 PM direct to Vienna. You would be in the middle of Vienna by 9 AM next morning – great if like us you sleep very well on night trains. But if you don’t sleep perfectly, you could arrive shattered and it’ll be too early to be able to check into a hotel.

The sequence in which you have ordered the cities is very sensible, but the entire itinerary is too condensed. Over a couple of months it could be fun. Packed into a few days, it might become an ordeal. You could possibly shift Amsterdam towards the end as it could easily be accommodated en route from Berlin to London, assuming you had no real wish or need to go back through Paris a second time. So the home stretch back to London would now look as follows:

Berlin to Amsterdam: 7 hrs by day (with one train change en route at Amersfoot)
Amsterdam to London: 5 hrs by day (with one change at Bruxelles Midi)

Moving Amsterdam to later in the sequence then frees you up to take the Palatino night train direct from Paris to Rome. Departure is around 6 PM each day. Lovely train – you can enjoy dinner on board as the countryside south of Paris slips by outside the window. It is a super way to spend a summer evening.

Bear in mind that our aggregate travel figure is time on the actual trains. Add in transfers in each city from hotel to train and vv, and your time for sightseeing is even more eaten up by travelling.

Our feeling is that each city on your list deserves a week – not just a few hours. At the very least, you need two full non-travel days in each city just to begin to scrape the surface. That implies three nights in each city. With the time you have you could perhaps pack in three cities on the continent (ie. apart from London) but surely not more.

2. What kind of Europe

Europe is a continent of countryside and small towns. The places you propose to visit are busy, cosmopolitan, and (dare we say) much favoured by international tourists. They are spots you can be sure of finding Starbucks, crushed ice and waiters who speak English.

But there is another Europe – the Europe favoured by many Europeans. If you could throw in a dose of small town Europe, you would find out so much more about our continent, our lives and our varied cultures. And if you are to travel so fast, then it is easier to get the flavour of a country in a smaller place. Better Bergamo than Rome; better Potsdam, Görlitz or Quedlinburg than Berlin; better Shaftesbury, Lavenham or Cambridge than London.

Why not drop some big cities in favour of smaller places? Relax. Take time and watch the sun set behind the mountains in the Alps. Less might be more.

3. Advance booking is the way to deep discounts

You suggest that you may not qualify for any discounted fare. This is not the case. Anyone in Europe can qualify for a discounted fare.

Let us take Vienna to Berlin as an example, using the only direct trains that link the two cities. These all run via Prague and Dresden (yes… more temptations Victor, we know, for now you’ll surely want to pack in an afternoon in each of those two cities as well).

If you just pitch up in Vienna and buy the Berlin ticket on the day (and that is always possible), the regular one-way fare is €117. If you purchase the ticket well in advance (we always recommend 10 to 12 weeks), then you can ride the same route on the same trains for €29. Even with the cheapest fares, you can still break your journey (in Prague, Dresden or anywhere else on the way), but you have to specify that at the time of booking. With the full fare you do not need to pre-specify stopovers.

If you book slightly in advance, say just a week or two before travel, you will still get a ticket for way less than €117, but it will no longer be €29. For a midweek off-peak day, booked a week in advance, you might pay €49. For a peak summer travel day, you might pay €99. But chances are that you will still get a discount.

But it is not as if students or seniors can somehow get privileged access to the rock bottom €29 fare. You can secure the most heavily discounted fares if you book well in advance. Advance booking is the key to cheap travel – not age.

4. Night train fares and the Eurail pass

If you take our suggestion above of using the Palatino train from Paris to Rome, bear in mind the fares structure. We give this as just one further example of how much fares can vary. That run can cost as little as €76 per person if booked in advance (using the Artesia Depart+Go fare). Or as much as €265 each if you book at short notice and opt for the highest class of accommodation (ie. sole occupancy of a sleeper compartment).

Be wary of rail passes sold outside Europe. If you are doing a very packed itinerary, spending hours each day on trains, they may be great value. But check the small print. For many routes they may not offer entirely free travel.

Let’s go back to our Artesia example above, using the Palatino night train from Paris to Rome. Book now, and as we said you could get tickets for €76. If you have a rail pass that includes either France or Italy, you might imagine you would ride for free. But actually not – a Eurailpass valid in France or Italy will give you a €6 discount on the €76 Depart+Go fare. So you pay €70 in all.

5. More information and booking

Web sites are great for travel planning, and you can book most or even all these tickets online now – even before you leave the US. We would advise that, rather than waiting (as you imply in your question) until you arrive in the UK to book tickets. 

And remember that the best deals will always be on the websites run by the rail operators - not those run by agents outside Europe. To get the best from those websites, use the native language versions of them.

Once your exact itinerary is clear we can advise you the best site to book each leg. You could end up using such a variety of services, that you might be looking to a mix of train companies for your bookings: Eurostar, DB, Thalys, Artesia, SNCF, Trenitalia, SBB, ÖBB and more besides.

With a packed itinerary like this, and so many trains, there will surely be a hitch or two along the way. In such cases, there is no substitute for a printed timetable – and it is good at the planning phase too. We suggest you purchase the current (ie. March 2010) issue of the Thomas Cook European Rail Timetable. Details are available on the Thomas Cook website. That will be a great asset in planning.

You might also consider getting the June issue in due course too – just to ensure that the schedules you have with you on the actual journey are bang up-to-date.

6. Apologia

So, Victor, we fear we have not answered your questions quite as you would have wished. But we hope that in these words there is something that will assist you in your travel planning. We wish you and your two traveling companions a fun time as you journey through Europe.

Susanne and Nicky run a Berlin-based editorial bureau that supplies text and images to media across Europe. Together they edit hidden europe magazine. You can read more of their writing in their regular e-brief and in the Notes section on their website.

Popularity: 2% [?]

So many options at the Repetto Boutique. Photos by Theadora Brack

By Theadora Brack in Paris—

Shoe fanatic Louis XIV got the party started, while Marie Antoinette raised it to new heights. Still, shoe shopping in Paris still gleams brightly. With the recent openings of Printemps’ new three-level atrium and Galeries Lafayette’s brand-spanking-new showroom pumped with 12,000 designer shoes, the art of shoeing has never been more swagnificent. So for the love of Versailles, how does a hot-stepper avoid paying full price?

Lean in, Cheapos, and follow my lead.

Step One: It’s all in the timing

Get closer to Galeries Lafayette.

One way to avoid paying full price on shoes is to schedule your trip during either the big January or July sale periods. The upcoming “Soldes d’été” (summer sales) will kick off on Wednesday, June 30, 2010. Discounts range from 20 to 80 per cent off retail prices. Remember to know your European shoe size!

Step Two: Now, study the classics

For your browsing pleasure, may I recommend starting off with a little “window licking” (faire du lèche-vitrine) on the boulevards?

Whet your appetite in the swanky shopping districts along the Avenue des Champs-Elysées, Avenue Montaigne, Louvre-Tuileries, and Place Vendôme. Don’t forget the funky independent designers in Abbesses, the Marais, and Saint-Germain-des-Prés. But don’t buy! Just spy, and make note of what you fancy. Recognition will be your greatest asset at vintage shops and flea markets later on.

Repetto's Red, White, and Blues

Shoe-in at the movies

While you’re out and about, do swing by the Repetto boutique for a peek at their towering cubbyholes stuffed with satin ballet slippers in shades of pale. Brigitte Bardot and Repetto transformed the classic ballet flat into an iconic street shoe during the making of the 1956 film “And God Created Woman.”

Sex and the City fans, this tip’s for you! Dior is located next to the Église Saint-Germain-des-Prés, while Manolo Blahnik’s showroom is near Place de la Concorde. Blahnik also confected the shoes for Sophia Coppola’s “Marie Antoinette.” It was a piece of cake for the designer, no doubt!

Then, step into the past

This is also an excellent time to study other masters like Carven, Lanvin, Poiret, Rykiel, and Schiaparelli at the Musée Galliera and Musée de la Mode et du Textile. Exhibits change frequently, so always Google for current listings prior to your visit.

You’ll have no regrets if you stop by the Musée Edith Piaf to see the “Little Sparrow’s” black dresses, size 4 shoes, and her pocketbooks. Still need a shoe fix? Marie Antoinette’s slippers and a scale model of the Lanvin showroom are at the Musée Carnavalet in the Marais.

Vide-greniers captivate!

Step three: Knowledge pays off

With a few favorite designer names under your hat, it’s now high time to visit the vintage shops, designer stock shops (outlets), flea markets, brocantes (antique/junk sales) and vide-greniers (neighborhood-wide garage sales) scattered all over.

Cheapos, I often find treasures at the vide-greniers! This is where the locals empty their closets. My latest finds include Valentino Garavani heels in burgundy satin and pink snakeskin, red ballet slippers by Zara, and patent leather black sliders by Freelance. And none cost more than 15 euros! I also found three pair of Salvatore Ferragamo shoes. Back in the day, he created wonders for Mary Pickford and Marilyn Monroe. Imagine and sigh. His shoes usually retail for up to $500, but on this very rainy day, the dealer asked for just €10 a pop. Now that’s a Hollywood ending!

Step four: Give them TLC

“Cendrillon” (Cinderella), if you’ve found your match but they’re not quite perfect, never fear. Just take them to any shoe repair shop (”cordonnerie”) and have them resoled or reheeled. Repairs are usually quick and cheap—and well done. My favorite is located at 48 rue des Abbesses. Look for the little 1940s- automaton cobbler hammering away in the shop window.

Pinching yet another pointer from Dior, Cheapos, comfort always comes first!

Popularity: 3% [?]

Is that in Airplane Mode? Photo by Jorge Quinteros.

By Tom Meyers—

If you’re an American iPhone user getting ready to take a trip to Europe, you’ve likely been warned about using your iPhone abroad. After all, AT&T’s rates for international data use can be confusing, and misunderstanding your usage or iPhone setup could be a very costly mistake.

I just returned from two weeks in Europe, one spent in Paris and one in Venice. This was a work trip, during which I visited about 90 hotels for EuroCheapo. I brought along my laptop, but what to do with my iPhone? Was there an economical way to use it in France and Italy? Should I pay for one of the international data packages offered by AT&T? Should I just leave the thing in New York?

When taking a pleasure trip, I usually turn off my phone before blast-off and leave it off until I return to JFK. (This has become increasingly inconvenient, however, in recent years as connecting with friends abroad is obviously aided by sending text messages. Those, however, don’t always work with American cell phones and require international roaming, which puts you at risk of receiving phone calls from home — which will cost you.)

In any case, I realized that my iPhone could be handy. It’s nice to stay on top of emails, download the latest news from the New York Times, and be on my way. But how to do it without going broke?

Advice from AT&T

AT&T, the exclusive US carrier for the iPhone, offers a number of international phone and data packages for Americans taking their phones abroad. The day before take-off, I called and spoke to a customer service representative about my options.

Two weeks later I’m still “processing” that conversation. Let’s just say there are a lot of variables at play, including whether or not you expect to use your iPhone abroad to a) place international phone calls, b) receive international phone calls, c) send and receive emails, d) browse the web, and e) use iPhone applications. Each of these points carries its own possible traps and, of course, AT&T offers a “package” to address each issue.

Just want to make calls on your iPhone from abroad?

If you plan to use your phone to make and receive calls, you can opt for the AT&T World Traveler feature (currently $5.99 month), which gives you a discounted price for making and receiving calls. Using this feature, placing or receiving a call from France and Italy would drop from $1.29 to $.99 per minute. Not exactly cheap.

Don’t forget that receiving a call will also cost you – even if you don’t answer it. If the call connects to your phone, it’s billable.

Important: If you choose to only make and receive calls abroad, don’t forget to deactivate your data roaming. But we’ll get to that…

Sending and receiving emails and browsing the Web from abroad

For sending and receiving emails, browsing the web, and using applications, AT&T advises you to purchase an international data roaming package. Stay with me here. These packages are available in four sizes, from 20 MB of international data transfer (for $24.99) to 200 MB of international data transfer (for $199). (Prices current as of March 2010.)

So, say you go with the $24.99 package. What exactly does that mean? How many emails can you send and receive with 20 MB of “data transfer”? How many web pages can you browse? Which applications can you use? That, of course, depends…

Hence, my headache. I had read horror stories of travelers buying a data package only to find that they surpassed it early in their trip by opening some “heavy” email messages or browsing image-rich websites.

AT&T’s tips for avoiding a billing “surprise”

In AT&T’s customer service center, the carrier offers tips for avoiding these sorts of surprise. The tips, which are quite helpful, include:

1) Turn off data roaming.

You’ll find this under Settings > General > Network > Data Roaming. (To make it easy, the iPhone even says “Turn data roaming off when abroad to avoid substantial roaming charges when using email, web browsing, and other data services.) If you’re using your iPhone to simply make and receive phone calls, make sure you do this.

2) Turn fetch data “Off”.

This prevents your iPhone from automatically checking for emails. To access this, go to Setting > Mail, Contacts, Calendars > Fetch New Data. Switch “Push” to “Off” and click “Manually”. Once switched, you’ll have to manually tell your phone to send and receive emails.

3) Consider purchasing an international data package.

As I mentioned above, AT&T offers four data packages, ranging from $29.99 to $199. If you are planning, at any point during your trip, to use a data network to access the web or use emails, you are strongly advised to get some sort of plan. 

4) Reset the usage tracker to zero.

This is interesting. Under Settings > Usage, you can see how many MB of data you’ve sent and received since you last reset the statistics. Theoretically, then, you could reset your statistics, and then track your subsequent bandwidth – perfect for those who have purchased an international bandwidth plan, right?

The only hiccup with this, unfortunately, is that the stats aren’t always up-to-date. It turns out that AT&T can have substantial delays in reporting international data usage (as international carriers are actually providing you with the network and then, later, reporting it back to AT&T). This means, well, that you certainly can’t rely on this metric for tracking your use in real-time.

5) Switch to Wi-Fi instead of data networks.

Bingo.

Airplane is my answer

Having discussed the options to the point of delirium, I basically threw in the towel and chose the most extreme option. Unfortunately, I had this sneaking suspicion that even with an international roaming package in place, I’d carelessly open an email with a dozen photos of my cats and wind up with a $4,000 phone bill.

Thus, frustrated and paranoid, I opted for “Airplane Mode.”

Airplane Mode blocks phone and data networks from going into and out of your iPhone. Wi-Fi networks, however, are accessible. It basically turns your iPhone into an iPod Touch. Airplane Mode is accessible under Settings > Airplane Mode.

Flying solo

The decision to use my iPhone for two weeks in Airplane Mode meant, of course, that to send and receive emails I needed to access a free Wi-Fi network. It also meant that I wouldn’t be able to send and receive text messages or make phone calls. In a separate post, I’ll explain how I went about finding free Wi-Fi networks in Paris and Venice.

Of course, my simple “Airplane Mode” solution won’t work for everyone. Some travelers will obviously need to use their phones to send and receive calls and texts. Others will need predictable email and web service. For these users, I’d suggest calling AT&T, adding some international services, turning off “fetch,” and still using “airplane mode” whenever possible.

However, for Cheapos like me who simply need an occasional connection, consider flying on “Airplane Mode” during your trip. You’ll relax about charges and still have basic services.

Tell us: Have you taken your iPhone abroad? Do you have any tips for avoiding surprise charges? Do you think I’m a big wimp for relying on Airplane Mode for two weeks? Tell us about your experience in the comments section.

Popularity: 5% [?]

An exit sign at a Metro station. Photos by Theodora Brack.

By Theadora Brack in Paris—

Hit the ground running in Paris! Don’t let a little language barrier trip you up, not when there is so much signage to lend a guiding hand and make your transition as smooth and exciting as a Johnny Weir solid gold triple axel!

A street sign

1. “Sortie”
 
Exit signs are clearly marked by the word, “Sortie,” which can also mean “military action” or “flight.” Think about that as you fight for your turn on the escalators at the Printemps department store during sale time! (And once you get on, remember to stand on the right, pass on the left!)

2. Digital signs of the times

Most metro stations are now equipped with digital countdown clocks indicating the next two incoming trains. If the first train looks too crowded and the next is only a moment behind, it may help you decide whether to give the first a pass. (By the way, Paris is on the 24-hour clock format. 19hr = 7 PM.)

The green cross.

3. Street smart

You’ll find the iconic blue street signs on the sides of buildings, usually at intersections. Just above the name of the street, the signs will also list the “arrondissement” (1-20) that you’re in. Often they’ll include a historical tidbit, too, about the person or event the street is named for.

4. Pharmacy signs

Pharmacies are easily recognizable by their flashing green cross signs, dressed in neon and super cool LED. In each neighborhood at least one remains open through the night (and a closed pharmacy will post a sign directing you to the nearest open pharmacy).

French pharmacists are licensed to diagnose and treat minor illnesses without doctors’ prescriptions. (Eye opener: this is also where you’ll pick up contact solution, eyedrops, and contact lens cases. Grocery stores don’t carry them.)

A happy hour sign

5. Green man walking

Always wait for the pedestrian crosswalk green man to give the signal to walk. However, note: On many of the wider streets and boulevards you’re supposed to cross in two stages, waiting for a second set of signals to indicate when it is safe to continue the rest of the way.

6. “Happy Hour” signs

Poking out of nearly every nook and cobblestoned cranny, chalkboard signs with their seductive hand-written descriptions still have a commanding presence in the city. Happy Hour specials and fixed-price set meals tempt passersby from restaurant doors, terrace tabletops, and windows. (Cheapos, the “formule” is normally the cheapest version of the fixed-price menu.)

A Morris Column

7. Banner Day

Keep your eyes peeled for banners stretched over streets announcing free concerts, festivals and “brocantes” (itinerant flea markets). Need eyeglass repairs? Look for neon spectacle-shaped signs.

8. Sign, sign everywhere a sign

You’ll find countless publicity signs for department stores, movies, and museum expositions on classic Parisian “Morris columns” (rotating cylindrical billboards) and plastered on poles, café windows and Metro station walls. Take note, Cheapos—spontaneous planning just got easier!

About the author: Theadora Brack is a writer working in Paris. Her fiction has appeared in more than 30 literary publications, including 3AM International, The Smoking Poet, Beloit Fiction Journal, Mid-American Review, and the Haight-Ashbury Literary Journal.

Popularity: 3% [?]

A couple at the Jardin des Tuileries. Photos by Theodora Brack.

By Theadora Brack in Paris—

With my pointy arrow, I feverishly pen this post from Paris. February marks my one-year anniversary with EuroCheapo! In honor of this sparkling occasion, I pop open the flashbacks along with a few brand-spanking-new insider nuggets!

Read on, Cheapo!

The Abbesses Metro station

A for Abbesses
By now it’s no secret that “Amélie” was filmed here, but did you know that its original title was “Amélie des Abbesses”? If you come by Metro, do take the lift. The station is ten stories underground!

B for Brocante
Throughout the year you’ll find “brocantes” (antique/junk sales) and “vide-greniers” (garage sales) scattered all over. For a listing, click here.

Outside the Coquelicot boulangerie.

C for Coquelicot
Next to Metro Abbesses, you’ll find the Coquelicot boulangerie. Thierry Racoillet’s old-fashioned and award-winning Picolla baguettes are not to be missed. They also give bread to the homeless.

D for Dalida
The late pop diva’s house is at the bend in rue d’Orchampt, and her grave is in the Cimetière de Montmartre. Pilgrims still visit both shrines to the female Elvis of France!

E for Eiffel
Not only did Madame La Tour Eiffel recently celebrate her 102nd birthday, but now it’s possible to buy tickets online prior to your visit!

F for Flea markets
Junkies, note that the Porte de Vanves is open Saturday and Sunday mornings, while the Porte de Clignancourt flea runs all day Saturday through Monday.

A shrine to popstar Dalida

G for Serge Gainsbourg
Long live the late French King of Croon! “Vie Héroïque,” a film about his life, was just released. His former pad at 5 bis Rue de Verneuil is now covered with layers of graffiti left by ardent fanatics.

H for le Halle Saint Pierre
Visionaries, naives, and outsiders, oh my! Homemade quiche with a view of Sacré Coeur! If you like Baltimore’s American Visionary Art Museum, you’ll love Halle Saint Pierre, a giant cultural center with plenty of attractions.

I for “I Love Sympa”
Practice the art of elbow-to-elbow bargain bin shopping in the heart of Montmartre, elbow-deep in garb by Kookai, Jennyfer, Naf-Naf, Pimkie, Sinéquanone, and Sandro . . .  at only a fraction of original cost!

J for Jardin des Tuileries
This is the place to read your book or museum catalogue—and people-watch! Nab a bench and stay till sundown.

Strawberries and asparagus in season

K for Kilos
At the markets, think seasonally! Produce will taste better and cost less. Asparagus rules in May, cherries star in July, and apples shine in early autumn. The lively marché d’Aligre in the 12th arrondissement is a favorite.

L for Jardins de Luxembourg
Run, Cheapo, run! Each loop is about 1.25 miles. Forgot your watch? There’s a clock on top of the Palais du Luxembourg.

The Mona Lisait bookstore

M for Marais
The great discount bookstore Mona Lisait and the Musée Carnavalet are practically neighbors in the Marais! Carnavelet has an entire jewelry shop designed by Mucha and featuring Marie Anoinette’s dancing slippers. Bookshop tip: Avoid heels, the floor is ancient cobblestones.

N for Napoléon
High and aloof atop his column in the Place Vendôme, le petit caporal overlooks the Hôtel Ritz, (where the daring Cheapo will sashay through, just to have a look, see).

O say, can you see the Opéra?
The best spot for ogling the Phantom’s lair is the Metro Opéra entrance.

P for Pariscope
Pick up a copy at any newsstand. The pocket-sized weekly lists the week’s cultural happenings for brows of any height.

Q is for Quizzes
Expect more to come, Cheapos!

R for Raindrops
They fall often but never for long. Pack your “parapluie!”

The Studio 28 cinema

S for Studio 28
Thank heaven for little cinemas! At Studio 28, you’ll be wooed by Jean Cocteau’s fantástico chandeliers, a crushed velvet fainting couch in the lobby, an art gallery, café, and footprints of the stars!

T for Taxi!
Need a cheap airport ride? Contact Lizza at Art-Trans Voyage.

U is for “Erope”
What’s missing? You!

The Bazzar de l’Hôtel de Ville department store.

V for Bazaar de l’Hôtel de Ville (BHV)
At grand magasin BHV, you’ll find one of my favorite souvenirs, the French bath mitt. Pair it with Provence soap and you’re good to bathe.

W for Wallace Fountains
Test the waters at 108 fountains sprinkled around Paris.  Bring your own bottle; the water’s free.

X for the Unexpected
Sometimes the best things in life take us by surprise.

Y for Degas’ “Young Dancer”
Where bronze meets tulle at the Musée d’Orsay.

Z for Émile Zola
Signing off with a mantra by Zola, “I am here to live out loud!”

Speaking of “out loud,” Cheapos, let’s hear from you! What tips would you add?

Popularity: 4% [?]

Macarons from Ladurée. Photos by Theodora Brack.

By Theadora Brack in Paris—

Grocery store chains may be your best bets for cutting costs while living in Paris, and they’re perfectly fine and dandy for long-term stays, but what if you’re visiting for just a week or two? Well then, I say, live it like it’s your last!

Visiting one of the finest food capitals of the world, a place chock-full of bountiful “Bon Produits” (specialty shops), all managed by certified gastronomical experts who are more than willing to share their vast wealth of knowledge, is abso-fruga-lute-ly not the time to shop at a chain grocery store in order to save a few centimes.

Splurge on a café.

So take in all those wonderful boulangeries, pâtisseries, chocolatiers, confiseries, glaciers, éspiceries, fromageries, charcuteries, poissonneries, caves, and cafés with a clear conscience. And don’t be shy. Ask for recommendations! Ask questions, and in the process you’ll take home more than the receipt.

Here’s my personal sampling of things to not miss while in France. Cheapos, splurge on!

1. Crème brûlée

Before cracking open this classic beauty, lift the ramekin to your ear, and lightly tap on its hard, caramelized topping with your spoon. Breathe in. Savor the moment.

2. Pain au chocolat

The proper way to eat it is to pinch off teeny morsels with your fingertips to make it last as long as possible. However, I usually peel the individual layers off slowly, thoroughly enjoying each melted chocolate nugget I encounter.

3. Fromage

Big wheels do keep on turning. Like skirts, cheese is seasonal, and the variety is endless. So pace yourself! Start off with the “Cantal jeune.” Named after the volcanic peaks of the Cantal mountain range, it’s hard to find this one-month-old taste sensation outside of France. Why, even the Sun King gave it his Good Palace-Keeping seal of approval. Also, don’t hesitate to ask the fromager for a cheese recommendation based on the wine you just bought down the street. They’ll gladly help you out.

Baguettes from Gérard Mulot.

4. Baguette

If it’s still warm from the oven, do as the locals do and rip a chunk off and pop it in your mouth as soon as you step out of the bakery. I’ve noticed that males tend to carry their baguettes like caveman clubs, while women usually cradle their bread.

5. Macarons and meringues

The ultimate instant sugar rush—but what-the-hey? You only live once, right? That’s what she said. Catherine de Medici’s Italian pastry chefs introduced the macaron to France, and Ladurée is credited with its stream-lined modern sandwich-look.

6. Wines

It’s perfectly normal to say, “I’m looking for something around five euros to go with [fill in the blank].” Trust me, everyone else is asking the same question. Tip: Caviste Pascal Fauvel at La Cave de Abbesses at 43 rue des Abbesses clearly marks his recommendations with heart-shaped signs that read, “Coup de coeur maison.” Others follow suit.

7. French onion soup

Yummy escargot

Day or night, it’s a hot and hearty Cheapo happy meal (sans prizes).

8. Escargots

If you end up loving them (and most people do) then you’ve made a culinary discovery, and if not, at least you’ve got a funny story to tell, and everyone will admire your bravery. I usually order my snails bathed in garlic, butter, and herbs in their little spiral shells. Yum!

9. Crêpes

“Je voudrais une banane-chocolat crêpe, s’il vous plaît,” is another one of my tickets to paradise.

Tartes at Les Petits Mitrons.

10. Tarte

Any ole tarte will do as long as it comes from Les Petits Mitrons at 26 rue Lepic in Abbesses, just up the street from the Moulin Rouge, and kitty-corner from the café featured in the film “Amélie.” You can also buy your pie by the slice!

11. A drink in Parisian café

If you visit Paris and miss out on this experience, Cheapos, we are no longer friends. Yes! Your alcoholic or non-alcoholic drinks will cost a little more than in a grocery store, but the upside is that you’ll be given courtside seats to people watching, and you can stay as long as you like.

12. At least one article of clothing

For the simple love of bragging rights, do pick up a scarf, shirt, or slacks. Then, for years to come you’ll be able to say, “Oh, this old thing? I picked it up in Paris years ago!”

Cheapos, do you have a favorite French treat? Do tell!

Popularity: 5% [?]

Bargain shopping at La Vaissellerie. Photos by Theadora Brack.

By Theadora Brack in Paris-

Like snowflakes, the truly sensational Soldes by Paris (annual winter sale) has recently returned to Paris, so why not outfit your kitchen with a few French classics?

Here are my favorite hot spots for picking up kitchenware, guaranteed to make you the toast of the town! So shop to it, Cheapos!

1. Let’s dish at La Vaissellerie

La Vaissellerie is a Cheapo's cup of tea.

Beloved chain La Vaissellerie has five locations peppered throughout the city. For your bargain shopping pleasure, may I suggest starting out at the shop at 85 rue de Rennes (Metro Saint-Sulpice). Here you’ll find baskets of porcelain tableware, wedged in between towering stacks of dinner plates.

Slashed prices are usually hand-written in thick black dry marker across each dish in a Zorro-like fashion. Keep your eyes peeled for iconic French beauties such as ramekins, espresso cups, soufflé dishes, brightly colored café saucers, soup bowls, tarte and quiche pans, all costing just a few euros!

2. Get your kitsch-on at Porte de Vanves flea market

If you, too, believe that minor scratches and dents add value (for love of mana!), the Porte de Vanves flea market is definitely the hunting ground for you. Cheapos, the selection is beyond belief. Several stalls are even dedicated to cookware and table settings gone by. Also, the prices can’t be beat.

I have bought old soup crocks, ornate silverware, and French royalty portrait plates from the ’50s, each costing just a few euros. You’ll also find a slew of glass terrine jars, loaf pans, crêpe skillets, gratins, aspic molds, handled éscargot pans, and Paris saucepans—just to name a few. (Arrive early, though, because this flea market starts to shut down at noon.)

3. What would Julia Child do?

For culinary sakes, she’d haunt the aisles of kitchen-equipment specialist E. Dehillerin! “Thunderstruck!” was her description of the heated encounter. The attraction was instant, mutual, and long lasting.

Located at 18 Rue Coquillière (Metro: Les Halles), the centuries-old shop’s gleam has not dulled the least bit. Though not a Cheapo haven in the price tag sense, you’ll find the shop’s stock possesses all the right ingredients for dreamy window-shopping. So take in its vast collection of cookware in bright copper, cast iron, and glossy enamel, too, while mulling slowly over endless gastronomical possibilities.

Also, check out Julia’s photograph behind the cash register. Julia’s own kitchen, along with the actual culinary tools she purchased at Dehillerin, is now on display at Smithsonian!

Forever pinching from my favorite French Chef, this has been Theadora Brack! Bon appétit, Cheapos!

(And bravo Meryl Streep!!!)

Popularity: 4% [?]

One of Paris' many cafes. Photo by d'Alk.

By Liz Webber—

When you plan a vacation, you generally budget a certain amount that you want to pay for airfare and a hotel. Yet, many forget to plan for all the little expenses—which can really add up if you’re not careful.

Here’s our handy cheat sheet for what you can expect to pay for some basic items in Paris, as well as tips for finding a cheaper alternative.

Cup of coffee: €2.50+

While a simple espresso generally will cost around €2.50-€3 when sipped seated at a café, anything fancier (latte, café crème, etc.) is going to tack on an extra euro or more in price. Cafés in central Paris also increase their prices for other basic items because they know tourists will pay.

When grabbing a coffee at a touristed café (or any café, for that matter), stand at the bar with the locals and pay half the price. For a leisurely café experience, why not venture to a spot along the Canal St. Martin in the 11th arrondissement where prices should be more reasonable?

Ticket to the Louvre: €9.50

That full-price admission ticket for the Louvre’s permanent collections doesn’t even include the €6 audio guide.

For a cheaper alternative, visit the museum on Wednesday or Friday evening from 6 PM to 9:45 PM for €6 and download the free Louvre app from the Apple store before you go. Better yet, aim for the first Sunday of the month when museum admission is free (although crowds can be a problem later in the day).

Many other museums also offer reduced rates for evening admission and most participate in the free first Sundays.

Lunch at a restaurant: €10+

Even at lunchtime, a main course at a moderately-priced restaurant in a touristy neighborhood will probably run upwards of €10—and that doesn’t account for wine or other beverages.

Instead, pick up a prepared sandwich at a boulangerie for about €3 or go for the “formule” that includes a sandwich, dessert, and drink for €5-€7. For a really cheap alternative, pick up a €1 baguette, a €3 bottle of supermarket wine (still tasty even though it’s so cheap!), and some cheese and find a spot for a picnic.

Pint of beer in a bar: €6

Even when compared to New York or London, I find alcohol to be pretty expensive in Paris at even the diviest of bars.

However, in supermarkets it’s fairly cheap. Since drinking in public is legal in most places in Paris (and even in places where it isn’t, most cops will turn a blind eye if you’re discreet about it), you can opt for a less expensive night out by picking up a bottle of wine or a couple of beers at the nearest Franprix and finding a place to sit along the Seine.

If you do want to order a beer at a bar, try a pint of French-made 1664. But to really feel like a local, ask for “un seize” (meaning “16″ – the first part of the beer’s name in French).

Add your tips

How have you kept your expenses low in Paris? Have some tips to share? Please add them in our comments section below!

Popularity: 6% [?]

Crowds scour the goods at the annual sales. Photos by Theodora Brack.

By Theadora Brack in Paris—

Ushering in 2010 like Folies Bergère high-kickers, let’s crack-open my personal Paris rolodex! Take a peek at a few of my insider tips and “bonne addresses.”

Come hither, Cheaparazzi, let’s take a spin!

1.Cheapo taxi to the airport

Lizza of Art-Trans Voyage.

Let’s face it, we’ve all got baggage. And sometimes it’s pretty heavy, so occasionally I cab it from the CDG airport to Paris with Art-Trans Voyage. Costing about €10 to €15 less than a normal taxi ride, this super-reliable and friendly car service allows for advance bookings, greets you at the airport with a sign in hand, and lets you ride shotgun if you so fancy. The flat rate will be pre-determined during booking, and is based on your destination in the city, regardless of traffic snarls.

Email owner Lizza (also a concert cellist!) at contact@art-trans-voyage.com. Tell her you’re a Cheapo.

Tip: For the very lowest rate (especially if your flight is an early one), do tell Lizza that you are willing to wait for a group pick-up at the airport café, just outside the baggage area. I do this often, and I’ve never had to wait more than one hour. You’ll find the lull in motion soothing, and besides, hotel check-in is usually in the afternoon. So why not relax, people watch, and sip un café, always bien to the last drop!

2. Bière with the locals (Hymne à l’amour)
Chez Ammad at Hotel Clermont, 18 Rue Véron in Abbesses

Keep this tip under your hat. This one’s just for you. If enjoying a really cheap beer while shooting the breeze with animated locals is a Parisian dream, Chez Ammad is your place. Though located just a few blocks from the bustling Place Abbesses, you’ll spot nary a tourist in sight.

Seductively adorned with a zinc bar, murals, and beveled mirrors, the joint once tempted the likes of Brassaï, Henry Valentine Miller, and Edith Piaf! (Edith actually stayed at the Clermont in the early thirties, while performing on the streets of Pigalle.) Clank a few cold’uns with sea merchants, tangled lovers, off-duty velvet-clad cabaret performers, artists, poets, and gypsy musicians, each with a cache of tales.

Tip jar: Order your “Sez” (1664) by the draft, not the bottle. Also, don’t walk away without trying the house couscous! They’ll post a sign if the pot’s on the stove.

3. High-brow beauty secrets! (more waxing poetic)
Yves Rocher at 17 rue Lepic in Abbesses

Beauty tools at a Yves Rocher salon.

Full-service Yves Rocher “instituts de beauté” are Cheapo havens. Where else can you get an eyebrow waxing and mini-massage for just €9? With locations dotted all over Paris, walk-ins are a piece of cake. This is the “parfait,” idyllic treat while waiting for an afternoon hotel check-in.

Forgot your bubbles? Yves Rocher also sells a wide array of scented soap and shampoo for just a few euros. For gorgeousness’s sake, I often make a dash to the location on rue Lepic. Ask for Melanie. She’s an artist. Plus, she ends her sessions by describing your eyebrows as “Très, très jolie!” (Pumping up the ego? Oh, so priceless!)

Another pointer: Ask for their fidelity card (Carte Privilege Beauté) and receive discounts with each subsequent visit! There’s no expiration, so it can be used for years.

4. January sales at Zara and ”Soldes by Paris”!
Zara at 75 Boulevard Haussmann

Soldes by Paris (the annual citywide after-holidays sale) is just around the corner! This highly anticipated happening runs January 6-9, 2010! (Speaking of high-kickers, Lady Gaga’s designer Jean-Claude Jitrois is this year’s fashion ambassador!) With nearly every store in Paris participating, it’s hard to avoid over-stimulating one’s senses and bank account. So strategize! Figure out a plan. I usually devote my attention to the Spanish brand Zara because the garb suits me, and the prices are easy on both the eyes and pocketbook.

Here’s the skinny: Not all Zara’s are created equal. I’m drawn to the two-story Boulevard Haussmann shop because of its spacious show rooms, changing cabins on both levels with flattering lighting, collections organized by color, and yes, drastic discounts! Also, at the end of the sale, this location serves as the last stop for the clothes that don’t sell at the Zara shops elsewhere in the city. Last year I was able to buy sale clothes deep into the month of March. (And by the way, this included a rather smashing and sturdily constructed pair of skinny green jeans for just €5! I know! It is a wonderful life.)

Bon Année Cheapos!

(Please note: Pinching from David Bowie, the prices above are subject to cha-cha-changes.)

Popularity: 5% [?]

The Elysée Palace on European Heritage Days. Photo by Liz Webber.

By Liz Webber–

The start of 2010 is just around the corner, and for Cheapos lucky enough to be in Paris for New Year’s Eve, that means an all-night party on the Champs Elysées and fireworks galore. But the festivities won’t stop there! Paris hosts festivals and events all year long that combine culture and merriment.

Here are a few of Paris’ annual events that are not to be missed:

La Nuit des Musées - May 15, 2010

One Sunday each spring, the museums of Paris (and the rest of the EU) stay open until 1 AM – and entrance is free! Marvel at Mona at night, ride up the escalators at the Pompidou Center for views of the city, or take the opportunity to discover a museum you’ve never visited before.

Fête de la Musique - June 21, 2010

Always a Cheapo favorite, this yearly festival showcases musicians of all genres, ages, and abilities with free performances in every corner of the city. Just in the Marais, you might find a street-thumping DJ dance party, a gay mens’ choir, and a band of thirteen-year-old rockers. Check out the program in advance to find where the big names will be, or just wander the streets until you find a beat you like!

Bastille Day - July 14, 2010

The French don’t actually call their national holiday “Bastille Day”; to them it is simply “Quatorze Juillet” (Fourteenth of July). Each year, the day is commemorated with a military parade down the Champs Elysées in the morning (arrive super early for a good viewing spot) and fireworks over the Eiffel Tower in the evening.

Any Metro stop anywhere remotely near the Champs de Mars or Trocadero will be closed prior to, during, and after the fireworks display for crowd control purposes, so either be prepared for a long walk home or stay clear of the pandemonium.

Journées Européenes du Patriomoine - September 2010

During “European Heritage Days”- celebrated around the country and across the continent – buildings normally closed to the public throw open their doors and cultural institutions hold special programs to promote France’s history and culture. Worth a visit is the Elysée Palace (France’s equivalent of the White House), but get there early to avoid hours-long lines.

Nuit Blanche - October 2010

This all-night event brings contemporary art to the streets with exhibits, videos, and performances all around the city. The mayor’s office puts together suggested routes for different neighborhoods if you need a bit of guidance. On this night especially, watch out for drunken teenagers looking to cause some trouble.

Keep in mind

Just because an event lasts all night doesn’t mean the Metros will be running all night! Some lines will be open into the wee hours, but make sure you know which lines those are, so you don’t end up walking back to your hotel from across the city at 4 AM.

Popularity: 7% [?]