An exit sign at a Metro station. Photos by Theodora Brack.

By Theadora Brack in Paris—

Hit the ground running in Paris! Don’t let a little language barrier trip you up, not when there is so much signage to lend a guiding hand and make your transition as smooth and exciting as a Johnny Weir solid gold triple axel!

A street sign

1. “Sortie”
 
Exit signs are clearly marked by the word, “Sortie,” which can also mean “military action” or “flight.” Think about that as you fight for your turn on the escalators at the Printemps department store during sale time! (And once you get on, remember to stand on the right, pass on the left!)

2. Digital signs of the times

Most metro stations are now equipped with digital countdown clocks indicating the next two incoming trains. If the first train looks too crowded and the next is only a moment behind, it may help you decide whether to give the first a pass. (By the way, Paris is on the 24-hour clock format. 19hr = 7 PM.)

The green cross.

3. Street smart

You’ll find the iconic blue street signs on the sides of buildings, usually at intersections. Just above the name of the street, the signs will also list the “arrondissement” (1-20) that you’re in. Often they’ll include a historical tidbit, too, about the person or event the street is named for.

4. Pharmacy signs

Pharmacies are easily recognizable by their flashing green cross signs, dressed in neon and super cool LED. In each neighborhood at least one remains open through the night (and a closed pharmacy will post a sign directing you to the nearest open pharmacy).

French pharmacists are licensed to diagnose and treat minor illnesses without doctors’ prescriptions. (Eye opener: this is also where you’ll pick up contact solution, eyedrops, and contact lens cases. Grocery stores don’t carry them.)

A happy hour sign

5. Green man walking

Always wait for the pedestrian crosswalk green man to give the signal to walk. However, note: On many of the wider streets and boulevards you’re supposed to cross in two stages, waiting for a second set of signals to indicate when it is safe to continue the rest of the way.

6. “Happy Hour” signs

Poking out of nearly every nook and cobblestoned cranny, chalkboard signs with their seductive hand-written descriptions still have a commanding presence in the city. Happy Hour specials and fixed-price set meals tempt passersby from restaurant doors, terrace tabletops, and windows. (Cheapos, the “formule” is normally the cheapest version of the fixed-price menu.)

A Morris Column

7. Banner Day

Keep your eyes peeled for banners stretched over streets announcing free concerts, festivals and “brocantes” (itinerant flea markets). Need eyeglass repairs? Look for neon spectacle-shaped signs.

8. Sign, sign everywhere a sign

You’ll find countless publicity signs for department stores, movies, and museum expositions on classic Parisian “Morris columns” (rotating cylindrical billboards) and plastered on poles, café windows and Metro station walls. Take note, Cheapos—spontaneous planning just got easier!

About the author: Theadora Brack is a writer working in Paris. Her fiction has appeared in more than 30 literary publications, including 3AM International, The Smoking Poet, Beloit Fiction Journal, Mid-American Review, and the Haight-Ashbury Literary Journal.

Popularity: 2% [?]

A couple at the Jardin des Tuileries. Photos by Theodora Brack.

By Theadora Brack in Paris—

With my pointy arrow, I feverishly pen this post from Paris. February marks my one-year anniversary with EuroCheapo! In honor of this sparkling occasion, I pop open the flashbacks along with a few brand-spanking-new insider nuggets!

Read on, Cheapo!

The Abbesses Metro station

A for Abbesses
By now it’s no secret that “Amélie” was filmed here, but did you know that its original title was “Amélie des Abbesses”? If you come by Metro, do take the lift. The station is ten stories underground!

B for Brocante
Throughout the year you’ll find “brocantes” (antique/junk sales) and “vide-greniers” (garage sales) scattered all over. For a listing, click here.

Outside the Coquelicot boulangerie.

C for Coquelicot
Next to Metro Abbesses, you’ll find the Coquelicot boulangerie. Thierry Racoillet’s old-fashioned and award-winning Picolla baguettes are not to be missed. They also give bread to the homeless.

D for Dalida
The late pop diva’s house is at the bend in rue d’Orchampt, and her grave is in the Cimetière de Montmartre. Pilgrims still visit both shrines to the female Elvis of France!

E for Eiffel
Not only did Madame La Tour Eiffel recently celebrate her 102nd birthday, but now it’s possible to buy tickets online prior to your visit!

F for Flea markets
Junkies, note that the Porte de Vanves is open Saturday and Sunday mornings, while the Porte de Clignancourt flea runs all day Saturday through Monday.

A shrine to popstar Dalida

G for Serge Gainsbourg
Long live the late French King of Croon! “Vie Héroïque,” a film about his life, was just released. His former pad at 5 bis Rue de Verneuil is now covered with layers of graffiti left by ardent fanatics.

H for le Halle Saint Pierre
Visionaries, naives, and outsiders, oh my! Homemade quiche with a view of Sacré Coeur! If you like Baltimore’s American Visionary Art Museum, you’ll love Halle Saint Pierre, a giant cultural center with plenty of attractions.

I for “I Love Sympa”
Practice the art of elbow-to-elbow bargain bin shopping in the heart of Montmartre, elbow-deep in garb by Kookai, Jennyfer, Naf-Naf, Pimkie, Sinéquanone, and Sandro . . .  at only a fraction of original cost!

J for Jardin des Tuileries
This is the place to read your book or museum catalogue—and people-watch! Nab a bench and stay till sundown.

Strawberries and asparagus in season

K for Kilos
At the markets, think seasonally! Produce will taste better and cost less. Asparagus rules in May, cherries star in July, and apples shine in early autumn. The lively marché d’Aligre in the 12th arrondissement is a favorite.

L for Jardins de Luxembourg
Run, Cheapo, run! Each loop is about 1.25 miles. Forgot your watch? There’s a clock on top of the Palais du Luxembourg.

The Mona Lisait bookstore

M for Marais
The great discount bookstore Mona Lisait and the Musée Carnavalet are practically neighbors in the Marais! Carnavelet has an entire jewelry shop designed by Mucha and featuring Marie Anoinette’s dancing slippers. Bookshop tip: Avoid heels, the floor is ancient cobblestones.

N for Napoléon
High and aloof atop his column in the Place Vendôme, le petit caporal overlooks the Hôtel Ritz, (where the daring Cheapo will sashay through, just to have a look, see).

O say, can you see the Opéra?
The best spot for ogling the Phantom’s lair is the Metro Opéra entrance.

P for Pariscope
Pick up a copy at any newsstand. The pocket-sized weekly lists the week’s cultural happenings for brows of any height.

Q is for Quizzes
Expect more to come, Cheapos!

R for Raindrops
They fall often but never for long. Pack your “parapluie!”

The Studio 28 cinema

S for Studio 28
Thank heaven for little cinemas! At Studio 28, you’ll be wooed by Jean Cocteau’s fantástico chandeliers, a crushed velvet fainting couch in the lobby, an art gallery, café, and footprints of the stars!

T for Taxi!
Need a cheap airport ride? Contact Lizza at Art-Trans Voyage.

U is for “Erope”
What’s missing? You!

The Bazzar de l’Hôtel de Ville department store.

V for Bazaar de l’Hôtel de Ville (BHV)
At grand magasin BHV, you’ll find one of my favorite souvenirs, the French bath mitt. Pair it with Provence soap and you’re good to bathe.

W for Wallace Fountains
Test the waters at 108 fountains sprinkled around Paris.  Bring your own bottle; the water’s free.

X for the Unexpected
Sometimes the best things in life take us by surprise.

Y for Degas’ “Young Dancer”
Where bronze meets tulle at the Musée d’Orsay.

Z for Émile Zola
Signing off with a mantra by Zola, “I am here to live out loud!”

Speaking of “out loud,” Cheapos, let’s hear from you! What tips would you add?

Popularity: 4% [?]

Macarons from Ladurée. Photos by Theodora Brack.

By Theadora Brack in Paris—

Grocery store chains may be your best bets for cutting costs while living in Paris, and they’re perfectly fine and dandy for long-term stays, but what if you’re visiting for just a week or two? Well then, I say, live it like it’s your last!

Visiting one of the finest food capitals of the world, a place chock-full of bountiful “Bon Produits” (specialty shops), all managed by certified gastronomical experts who are more than willing to share their vast wealth of knowledge, is abso-fruga-lute-ly not the time to shop at a chain grocery store in order to save a few centimes.

Splurge on a café.

So take in all those wonderful boulangeries, pâtisseries, chocolatiers, confiseries, glaciers, éspiceries, fromageries, charcuteries, poissonneries, caves, and cafés with a clear conscience. And don’t be shy. Ask for recommendations! Ask questions, and in the process you’ll take home more than the receipt.

Here’s my personal sampling of things to not miss while in France. Cheapos, splurge on!

1. Crème brûlée

Before cracking open this classic beauty, lift the ramekin to your ear, and lightly tap on its hard, caramelized topping with your spoon. Breathe in. Savor the moment.

2. Pain au chocolat

The proper way to eat it is to pinch off teeny morsels with your fingertips to make it last as long as possible. However, I usually peel the individual layers off slowly, thoroughly enjoying each melted chocolate nugget I encounter.

3. Fromage

Big wheels do keep on turning. Like skirts, cheese is seasonal, and the variety is endless. So pace yourself! Start off with the “Cantal jeune.” Named after the volcanic peaks of the Cantal mountain range, it’s hard to find this one-month-old taste sensation outside of France. Why, even the Sun King gave it his Good Palace-Keeping seal of approval. Also, don’t hesitate to ask the fromager for a cheese recommendation based on the wine you just bought down the street. They’ll gladly help you out.

Baguettes from Gérard Mulot.

4. Baguette

If it’s still warm from the oven, do as the locals do and rip a chunk off and pop it in your mouth as soon as you step out of the bakery. I’ve noticed that males tend to carry their baguettes like caveman clubs, while women usually cradle their bread.

5. Macarons and meringues

The ultimate instant sugar rush—but what-the-hey? You only live once, right? That’s what she said. Catherine de Medici’s Italian pastry chefs introduced the macaron to France, and Ladurée is credited with its stream-lined modern sandwich-look.

6. Wines

It’s perfectly normal to say, “I’m looking for something around five euros to go with [fill in the blank].” Trust me, everyone else is asking the same question. Tip: Caviste Pascal Fauvel at La Cave de Abbesses at 43 rue des Abbesses clearly marks his recommendations with heart-shaped signs that read, “Coup de coeur maison.” Others follow suit.

7. French onion soup

Yummy escargot

Day or night, it’s a hot and hearty Cheapo happy meal (sans prizes).

8. Escargots

If you end up loving them (and most people do) then you’ve made a culinary discovery, and if not, at least you’ve got a funny story to tell, and everyone will admire your bravery. I usually order my snails bathed in garlic, butter, and herbs in their little spiral shells. Yum!

9. Crêpes

“Je voudrais une banane-chocolat crêpe, s’il vous plaît,” is another one of my tickets to paradise.

Tartes at Les Petits Mitrons.

10. Tarte

Any ole tarte will do as long as it comes from Les Petits Mitrons at 26 rue Lepic in Abbesses, just up the street from the Moulin Rouge, and kitty-corner from the café featured in the film “Amélie.” You can also buy your pie by the slice!

11. A drink in Parisian café

If you visit Paris and miss out on this experience, Cheapos, we are no longer friends. Yes! Your alcoholic or non-alcoholic drinks will cost a little more than in a grocery store, but the upside is that you’ll be given courtside seats to people watching, and you can stay as long as you like.

12. At least one article of clothing

For the simple love of bragging rights, do pick up a scarf, shirt, or slacks. Then, for years to come you’ll be able to say, “Oh, this old thing? I picked it up in Paris years ago!”

Cheapos, do you have a favorite French treat? Do tell!

Popularity: 5% [?]

Bargain shopping at La Vaissellerie. Photos by Theadora Brack.

By Theadora Brack in Paris-

Like snowflakes, the truly sensational Soldes by Paris (annual winter sale) has recently returned to Paris, so why not outfit your kitchen with a few French classics?

Here are my favorite hot spots for picking up kitchenware, guaranteed to make you the toast of the town! So shop to it, Cheapos!

1. Let’s dish at La Vaissellerie

La Vaissellerie is a Cheapo's cup of tea.

Beloved chain La Vaissellerie has five locations peppered throughout the city. For your bargain shopping pleasure, may I suggest starting out at the shop at 85 rue de Rennes (Metro Saint-Sulpice). Here you’ll find baskets of porcelain tableware, wedged in between towering stacks of dinner plates.

Slashed prices are usually hand-written in thick black dry marker across each dish in a Zorro-like fashion. Keep your eyes peeled for iconic French beauties such as ramekins, espresso cups, soufflé dishes, brightly colored café saucers, soup bowls, tarte and quiche pans, all costing just a few euros!

2. Get your kitsch-on at Porte de Vanves flea market

If you, too, believe that minor scratches and dents add value (for love of mana!), the Porte de Vanves flea market is definitely the hunting ground for you. Cheapos, the selection is beyond belief. Several stalls are even dedicated to cookware and table settings gone by. Also, the prices can’t be beat.

I have bought old soup crocks, ornate silverware, and French royalty portrait plates from the ’50s, each costing just a few euros. You’ll also find a slew of glass terrine jars, loaf pans, crêpe skillets, gratins, aspic molds, handled éscargot pans, and Paris saucepans—just to name a few. (Arrive early, though, because this flea market starts to shut down at noon.)

3. What would Julia Child do?

For culinary sakes, she’d haunt the aisles of kitchen-equipment specialist E. Dehillerin! “Thunderstruck!” was her description of the heated encounter. The attraction was instant, mutual, and long lasting.

Located at 18 Rue Coquillière (Metro: Les Halles), the centuries-old shop’s gleam has not dulled the least bit. Though not a Cheapo haven in the price tag sense, you’ll find the shop’s stock possesses all the right ingredients for dreamy window-shopping. So take in its vast collection of cookware in bright copper, cast iron, and glossy enamel, too, while mulling slowly over endless gastronomical possibilities.

Also, check out Julia’s photograph behind the cash register. Julia’s own kitchen, along with the actual culinary tools she purchased at Dehillerin, is now on display at Smithsonian!

Forever pinching from my favorite French Chef, this has been Theadora Brack! Bon appétit, Cheapos!

(And bravo Meryl Streep!!!)

Popularity: 4% [?]

One of Paris' many cafes. Photo by d'Alk.

By Liz Webber—

When you plan a vacation, you generally budget a certain amount that you want to pay for airfare and a hotel. Yet, many forget to plan for all the little expenses—which can really add up if you’re not careful.

Here’s our handy cheat sheet for what you can expect to pay for some basic items in Paris, as well as tips for finding a cheaper alternative.

Cup of coffee: €2.50+

While a simple espresso generally will cost around €2.50-€3 when sipped seated at a café, anything fancier (latte, café crème, etc.) is going to tack on an extra euro or more in price. Cafés in central Paris also increase their prices for other basic items because they know tourists will pay.

When grabbing a coffee at a touristed café (or any café, for that matter), stand at the bar with the locals and pay half the price. For a leisurely café experience, why not venture to a spot along the Canal St. Martin in the 11th arrondissement where prices should be more reasonable?

Ticket to the Louvre: €9.50

That full-price admission ticket for the Louvre’s permanent collections doesn’t even include the €6 audio guide.

For a cheaper alternative, visit the museum on Wednesday or Friday evening from 6 PM to 9:45 PM for €6 and download the free Louvre app from the Apple store before you go. Better yet, aim for the first Sunday of the month when museum admission is free (although crowds can be a problem later in the day).

Many other museums also offer reduced rates for evening admission and most participate in the free first Sundays.

Lunch at a restaurant: €10+

Even at lunchtime, a main course at a moderately-priced restaurant in a touristy neighborhood will probably run upwards of €10—and that doesn’t account for wine or other beverages.

Instead, pick up a prepared sandwich at a boulangerie for about €3 or go for the “formule” that includes a sandwich, dessert, and drink for €5-€7. For a really cheap alternative, pick up a €1 baguette, a €3 bottle of supermarket wine (still tasty even though it’s so cheap!), and some cheese and find a spot for a picnic.

Pint of beer in a bar: €6

Even when compared to New York or London, I find alcohol to be pretty expensive in Paris at even the diviest of bars.

However, in supermarkets it’s fairly cheap. Since drinking in public is legal in most places in Paris (and even in places where it isn’t, most cops will turn a blind eye if you’re discreet about it), you can opt for a less expensive night out by picking up a bottle of wine or a couple of beers at the nearest Franprix and finding a place to sit along the Seine.

If you do want to order a beer at a bar, try a pint of French-made 1664. But to really feel like a local, ask for “un seize” (meaning “16″ – the first part of the beer’s name in French).

Add your tips

How have you kept your expenses low in Paris? Have some tips to share? Please add them in our comments section below!

Popularity: 6% [?]

Crowds scour the goods at the annual sales. Photos by Theodora Brack.

By Theadora Brack in Paris—

Ushering in 2010 like Folies Bergère high-kickers, let’s crack-open my personal Paris rolodex! Take a peek at a few of my insider tips and “bonne addresses.”

Come hither, Cheaparazzi, let’s take a spin!

1.Cheapo taxi to the airport

Lizza of Art-Trans Voyage.

Let’s face it, we’ve all got baggage. And sometimes it’s pretty heavy, so occasionally I cab it from the CDG airport to Paris with Art-Trans Voyage. Costing about €10 to €15 less than a normal taxi ride, this super-reliable and friendly car service allows for advance bookings, greets you at the airport with a sign in hand, and lets you ride shotgun if you so fancy. The flat rate will be pre-determined during booking, and is based on your destination in the city, regardless of traffic snarls.

Email owner Lizza (also a concert cellist!) at contact@art-trans-voyage.com. Tell her you’re a Cheapo.

Tip: For the very lowest rate (especially if your flight is an early one), do tell Lizza that you are willing to wait for a group pick-up at the airport café, just outside the baggage area. I do this often, and I’ve never had to wait more than one hour. You’ll find the lull in motion soothing, and besides, hotel check-in is usually in the afternoon. So why not relax, people watch, and sip un café, always bien to the last drop!

2. Bière with the locals (Hymne à l’amour)
Chez Ammad at Hotel Clermont, 18 Rue Véron in Abbesses

Keep this tip under your hat. This one’s just for you. If enjoying a really cheap beer while shooting the breeze with animated locals is a Parisian dream, Chez Ammad is your place. Though located just a few blocks from the bustling Place Abbesses, you’ll spot nary a tourist in sight.

Seductively adorned with a zinc bar, murals, and beveled mirrors, the joint once tempted the likes of Brassaï, Henry Valentine Miller, and Edith Piaf! (Edith actually stayed at the Clermont in the early thirties, while performing on the streets of Pigalle.) Clank a few cold’uns with sea merchants, tangled lovers, off-duty velvet-clad cabaret performers, artists, poets, and gypsy musicians, each with a cache of tales.

Tip jar: Order your “Sez” (1664) by the draft, not the bottle. Also, don’t walk away without trying the house couscous! They’ll post a sign if the pot’s on the stove.

3. High-brow beauty secrets! (more waxing poetic)
Yves Rocher at 17 rue Lepic in Abbesses

Beauty tools at a Yves Rocher salon.

Full-service Yves Rocher “instituts de beauté” are Cheapo havens. Where else can you get an eyebrow waxing and mini-massage for just €9? With locations dotted all over Paris, walk-ins are a piece of cake. This is the “parfait,” idyllic treat while waiting for an afternoon hotel check-in.

Forgot your bubbles? Yves Rocher also sells a wide array of scented soap and shampoo for just a few euros. For gorgeousness’s sake, I often make a dash to the location on rue Lepic. Ask for Melanie. She’s an artist. Plus, she ends her sessions by describing your eyebrows as “Très, très jolie!” (Pumping up the ego? Oh, so priceless!)

Another pointer: Ask for their fidelity card (Carte Privilege Beauté) and receive discounts with each subsequent visit! There’s no expiration, so it can be used for years.

4. January sales at Zara and ”Soldes by Paris”!
Zara at 75 Boulevard Haussmann

Soldes by Paris (the annual citywide after-holidays sale) is just around the corner! This highly anticipated happening runs January 6-9, 2010! (Speaking of high-kickers, Lady Gaga’s designer Jean-Claude Jitrois is this year’s fashion ambassador!) With nearly every store in Paris participating, it’s hard to avoid over-stimulating one’s senses and bank account. So strategize! Figure out a plan. I usually devote my attention to the Spanish brand Zara because the garb suits me, and the prices are easy on both the eyes and pocketbook.

Here’s the skinny: Not all Zara’s are created equal. I’m drawn to the two-story Boulevard Haussmann shop because of its spacious show rooms, changing cabins on both levels with flattering lighting, collections organized by color, and yes, drastic discounts! Also, at the end of the sale, this location serves as the last stop for the clothes that don’t sell at the Zara shops elsewhere in the city. Last year I was able to buy sale clothes deep into the month of March. (And by the way, this included a rather smashing and sturdily constructed pair of skinny green jeans for just €5! I know! It is a wonderful life.)

Bon Année Cheapos!

(Please note: Pinching from David Bowie, the prices above are subject to cha-cha-changes.)

Popularity: 5% [?]

The Elysée Palace on European Heritage Days. Photo by Liz Webber.

By Liz Webber–

The start of 2010 is just around the corner, and for Cheapos lucky enough to be in Paris for New Year’s Eve, that means an all-night party on the Champs Elysées and fireworks galore. But the festivities won’t stop there! Paris hosts festivals and events all year long that combine culture and merriment.

Here are a few of Paris’ annual events that are not to be missed:

La Nuit des Musées - May 15, 2010

One Sunday each spring, the museums of Paris (and the rest of the EU) stay open until 1 AM – and entrance is free! Marvel at Mona at night, ride up the escalators at the Pompidou Center for views of the city, or take the opportunity to discover a museum you’ve never visited before.

Fête de la Musique - June 21, 2010

Always a Cheapo favorite, this yearly festival showcases musicians of all genres, ages, and abilities with free performances in every corner of the city. Just in the Marais, you might find a street-thumping DJ dance party, a gay mens’ choir, and a band of thirteen-year-old rockers. Check out the program in advance to find where the big names will be, or just wander the streets until you find a beat you like!

Bastille Day - July 14, 2010

The French don’t actually call their national holiday “Bastille Day”; to them it is simply “Quatorze Juillet” (Fourteenth of July). Each year, the day is commemorated with a military parade down the Champs Elysées in the morning (arrive super early for a good viewing spot) and fireworks over the Eiffel Tower in the evening.

Any Metro stop anywhere remotely near the Champs de Mars or Trocadero will be closed prior to, during, and after the fireworks display for crowd control purposes, so either be prepared for a long walk home or stay clear of the pandemonium.

Journées Européenes du Patriomoine - September 2010

During “European Heritage Days”- celebrated around the country and across the continent – buildings normally closed to the public throw open their doors and cultural institutions hold special programs to promote France’s history and culture. Worth a visit is the Elysée Palace (France’s equivalent of the White House), but get there early to avoid hours-long lines.

Nuit Blanche - October 2010

This all-night event brings contemporary art to the streets with exhibits, videos, and performances all around the city. The mayor’s office puts together suggested routes for different neighborhoods if you need a bit of guidance. On this night especially, watch out for drunken teenagers looking to cause some trouble.

Keep in mind

Just because an event lasts all night doesn’t mean the Metros will be running all night! Some lines will be open into the wee hours, but make sure you know which lines those are, so you don’t end up walking back to your hotel from across the city at 4 AM.

Popularity: 7% [?]

Marine style in "À bout de Souffle." Photo: TheMoveDB.org.

By Theadora Brack in Paris—

In grand ole Oprah style, I’ve decided to round out 2009 with another contest give-away. Plus, I’ll doff my “bachi” (French sailor hat) to a few of my favorite things in Paris!

Be the first Cheapo to correctly answer the New Wave film-related questions below, and we’ll give you a handsome catalog from the exposition, “Les Marins Font La Mode—Sailor Chic in Paris,” accompanied by one sporty Sephora striped travel bag!

Stars in stripes forever!

Photo: Musée de la Marine.

That fantastic exposition of Sailor Chic was presented earlier this year at the Musée de la Marine, located at place du Trocadéro. Whenever history, art, and fashion collide, Cheapos, I am there.

But who hasn’t been touched by the bold stripes of the traditional nautical shirts of Brittany (the coastal region where the French-striped top originated)? This look not only hooked appealingly rugged-types like Picasso, Hemingway, and Jean Paul Gaultier, but also lured Chanel, Rykiel, Schiaparelli, Jean Seberg, Brigitte Bardot, and Audrey Hepburn, just to name a few.

And it continues to captivate. Why, the very shirt that Audrey herself wore in the 1956 film “War and Peace” was recently put up for auction in London!

Beyond the sea!

Beyond the doubt, this French naval history museum is still worth a visit, even though the exhibit has closed. Dive deep into its vast collection of artifacts ranging from Napoleon’s gilded ceremonial barge (with all 24 oars still intact!), the Carmagnolle brothers’ diving suit (at 800 pounds, those brothers were heavy indeed), to toy boats that once belonged to the young Louis XV! (Museum hours are 10 AM to 6 PM. Closed on Tuesdays.)

Afterwards, head to the frip-frip-perie!

"King of Frip." Photo: Theadora Brack

After your expedition to the museum, why not set out on a quest for the perfect striped shirt of your own? Described by Hemingway as, “very stiff and built for hard wear but softened by washings.”

In the Marais, you’ll find beaucoup de Breton stripes. Get your maritime on at the boutique King of Frip (short for “friperie,” a second-hand clothing shop) at 14 rue Vieille du Temple. Its wide aisles make it a favorite sweet spot of mine.

Though smaller, the Vintage Désir down the street at 32 rue des Rosiers also has bountiful goods. You’ll find the striped booty toward the front of the store, to the left—to the left.

Now, to the quiz:

Jean-Luc Godard’s classic “À bout de soufflé” (“Breathless”) was shot on-location in Paris. In the film, Jean Seberg’s character, a budding journalist named Patricia, wears a magnificent striped dress to a press conference at the old Paris-Orly Airport. Striving to make ends meet, Patricia also sells newspapers on the Champs Élysées.

1. Name the newspaper Patricia so charmingly hawks on the streets of Paris!

2. Also, give us the name of the French store where director Godard (Cheapo at heart) bought the striped dress featured in the scene.

The first Cheapo to answer both questions correctly wins the catalog from the Musée de la Marine’s exposition, “Les Marins Font La Mode—Sailor Chic in Paris,” and a compact spiffy Sephora striped travel bag, to boot! Please leave your answers in the comments box below.

Bonne Chance! Et Bonne Année, Cheapos!

Popularity: 5% [?]

Le Grenier de Notre Dame. Photo by ewanmcdowall.

By Liz Webber—

Going to a restaurant when you have some sort of dietary restriction can be difficult enough as it is, let alone when you’re in a foreign country where you may not speak the local language. Never fear, we’ll show you how to find restaurants in Paris where you can eat freely or simply communicate your circumstances “en français.”

Vegetarian/Vegan restaurants in Paris

Being a vegetarian in France is something of a punchline, and veganism is all but unheard of. However, there are some options for herbivores in Paris. A vegetarian friend of mine recommends Macéo (15 Rue des Petits Champs) and Brasserie Lutetia (45 Boulevard Raspail), both of which have vegetarian menus.

She further suggests using the website Happy Cow to search for restaurants in Paris. The site lists four vegan eateries, and includes several other vegetarian and veg-friendly options.

While it may not be “real” French cuisine, you can also try Asian restaurants, which may be more used to the idea of meat-less dishes. Check out the Chinese and Vietnamese places in Belleville in the 19th and 20th Arrondissements.

Celiac/Wheat-free dining in Paris

My dad is a celiac, so when he came to visit me he looked up gluten-free restaurants on CeliacHandbook.com. Le Charlain (23 Rue Clauzel) was on the list, and we enjoyed a great meal there – with a delicious flour-less chocolate cake for dessert.

Celiac disease is not as well-known in France as in places like Italy, but it is possible to find wheat-free dishes in most restaurants. Just tell your server, “Je suis allergique à la farine” (I’m allergic to flour). Stay away from mysterious sauces, and (depending on the restaurant’s recipe) you most likely won’t be able to eat the “frites,” either.

Disappointingly for my dad, we couldn’t find any bakeries in Paris that make gluten-free products. Naturalia, a chain of natural food stores, sells some wheat-free bread products, but they generally aren’t the same quality you’d find in the United States.

Lactose Intolerance and Other Allergies

Although the French are fond of cheeses and cream sauces, it should be easy to avoid dairy products in most Paris restaurants if you make your intolerance known. Simply say “J’ai une intolérance au lactose” (I’m lactose intolerant). Another option is to try kosher meat restaurants, such as those you would find in the neighborhood of the Rue des Rosiers.

Similarly, for other food allergies it’s just a matter of telling your server. Start with “Je suis allergique aux…” (I’m allergic to…). Some common allergy words include “noix” (nuts), “fruits de mer” (seafood), and “graines de sésame” (sesame seeds).

Tell Us

Are you a vegetarian, vegan, or have a food allergy? How was your experience eating out in Paris? Let us know!

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Holiday decorations in the City of Lights. Photos by Theadora Brack.

By Theadora Brack in Paris—

I love Paris in the winter when it glitters. I love this city when it glows with countless strands of tiny white lights. It goes straight to my head! Getting in the mood for the holidays here is never difficult, but to help it happen, here are seven ways to light your Paris match. Come, Cheapos, follow me!

1. Twinkle: Bright lights, dig the city

First, take in the lights with a brisk stroll around town, and then warm up with “un vin chaud” or crack open a toasty crème brûlée out on the terrace of a lively bar or café. Forget about the elements. The glowing overhead braziers, impromptu sing-alongs, and people-watching will keep you warm. For the city’s official street-illumination map, click here.

Taking in the festive scene at a café

2. Tower: Bon Anniversaire, Madame Eiffel!

Continuing to celebrate her 120th birthday in style, la Tour Eiffel is not just sparkling for the usual five minutes on the hour, but she’s also encoring with a 12-minute super-cool LED light show nightly at 8, 9, 10, and 11 PM. My favorite spots for tower-gazing are just below Sacré Coeur at Rue Azaïs and rue Saint-Eleuthère, and beside the Palais de Tokyo.

Breaking News! For the first time ever, advance tickets for Eiffel Tower visits are now available online! Check out their booking site.

3. Window Shopping: Here comes the Hotstepper

Promenade up and down Boulevard Haussmann, while getting an eyeful of the grand magasins’ “vitrines de Noël” (holiday windows). This year, Chanel and Dior outfitted Printemps’ Russian-inspired windows, while rabbits, dollies, and bears (oh, my) cavort next door at Galeries Lafayette in tableaux by designers Gaultier, Kenzo, and Marc Jacobs.

The one-ring Cirque d’hiver Bouglione

Also, let’s not forget the smaller shops! Often restaurants, pâtisseries, boutiques, and even pharmacies hire artists to create whimsical murals. And keep your eyes peeled for neighborhood “concours de décorations de vitrines” (window decorating contests).

4. Holiday Circus: Time flies!

Treat yourself to an old-time spectacle at the one-ring Cirque d’hiver Bouglione (Metro: Oberkampf). Just think—Degas, Seurat, and Toulouse-Lautrec sat on these same red-velvet seats! Celebrating the 150-year anniversary of the flying trapeze, invented in 1859 by dashing acrobat Jules Léotard (thank him for creating the garment too!), this year the Bouglione circus family is paying homage to its roots with a “Festif” show, jammed-packed with traditional acts.

Tip: The seats in the very last row are just €10—but it’s worth every cent to be up close.

5. Ice Skating: Watch that figure!

Prepare for the 2010 Olympic Winter Games by taking a few spins around the ice rinks in front of the Hotel de Ville or Gare Montparnasse. Let Johnny be-Weir! The admission is free. Skate rental is €5, cash only. Know your European shoe size numbers. There’s no charge for sideline watching.

The decadent displays at l'épiceries Fauchon

6. Concert: The bells are ringing!

During the holidays, you’ll find no shortage of Vivaldi, Mozart, Chopin, Lizst, or Bach! Time is going to be your only issue. So pick up a copy of Pariscope, available at any newsstand or kiosk. The pocket-sized magazine covers the week’s happenings from theatre, cinema and arts, to music and restaurants. In it you’ll find a listing of free concerts and other holiday events. (Read about classical music discounts.)

Why, oh, why is l’église de la Madeleine my choice for classical concerts? Because, Cheapos, the tantalizing window displays of l’épiceries Fauchon are near!

7. Christmas Markets: What’s good for the goose

During the holidays, the winter markets, with their quaint boxes, tents, and chalets, are found in nearly every square. Follow the smell of “chaud les marrons” (chestnuts roasting on an open fire!). This is also the place to grab a quick hearty meal. Try the Alsatian “choucroute garnie” or the Belgian waffles. You’ll also find delectable regional specialties such as foie gras, honey, and champagne.

Tip: After marketing at the Saint-Germain-des-Prés Winter Village, meander over to the Bar du Marché at 75, rue de Seine, and clank a few with locals! Look for the candy-striped awning.

Happy Holidays, Cheapos! (And special thanks to Jessica Hines for the Cirque d’hiver photograph!)

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