Rome Cheap Eats: Dine like a local at these affordable restaurants

Friday, September 11th, 2009
Dining with the locals at Al Peperoncino. Photos by Claire Chaffey.

Dining with the locals at Al Peperoncino. Photos by Claire Chaffey.

By Claire Chaffey in Rome—

When in Rome, want to eat like an Italian with the Italians? Want to escape overpriced tourist menus? Want to experience authentic Italian cuisine at the right price? Well, why not take the metro out of the historic centre and dine in the spots that only the locals know about!

Here are three absolute gems that are less than 10 minutes from Termini Station. All of these spots offer authenticity at the right price, with a three-course meal, wine and coffee coming in at around 20 €.

Pizzeria Dal Bersagliere
Via Gino Capponi 16

Great dining along the Via Appia Nuova.

Great dining on Via Appia Nuova.

The fabulous little Pizzeria Dal Bersagliere in Furio Camillo is apparently, if you look at the photo above the cash register, good enough for James Bond. Sean Connery used to come here, it seems, and we can understand why! The restaurant offers an extensive menu including pasta, meats and salads, but the real reason to come here is the pizza!

They offer a huge range of ridiculously light and flavoursome pizzas starting from 5 €. The supplis, crumbed risotto balls filled with deliciously melted and gooey cheese, are not to be missed either. The house wine is dangerously palatable and the outdoor seating arrangement makes for a very noisy and friendly night out. The place is heaving by 10 PM.

Getting there: Take metro line A to Furio Camillo. Take the Via C. Baronio exit and walk along Via Appia Nuova (pictured, right) for about 200 m. Turn left into Via Gino Capponi and follow the delicious aroma emanating from behind the small florist stand. Open daily 7pm – midnight. (More info on the restaurant’s website.)

Antico Casale
Ponte Lungo

Oh Rome, this is how you should be! This wonderful little place in Ponte Lungo is about as authentic as you can get. Complete with red and white checked table cloths and an intimate, rustic atmosphere, this super find is an extremely popular choice amongst locals.

Highlights include the delectable pastas, starting at 7 €, and exquisite seafood, all served by friendly and helpful staff. Only the dessert outdoes the pasta at this place, with the Tartufo Bianco absolutely to die for!

Getting there: Take metro line A to Ponte Lungo and take the Piazza Ponte Lungo exit. Walk 150 metres along Via Appia Nuova and take the second right over the bridge into Piazza Camillo Finocchiaro Aprile. The restaurant is tucked behind a little florist in Appia Circonvallazione. Closed Mondays.

Al Peperoncino
Via Ostiense 369/375

Pasta Al Peperoncino.

Pasta Al Peperoncino.

Ask any local in San Paolo where you can find a great meal and they will almost certainly direct you to the huge, and hugely popular, Pizzeria and Bisteccheria Al Peperoncino (pictured at top and right). This restaurant is packed most nights, and you probably won’t find another tourist in sight!

With pizzas from 3 €, steak cooked to perfection and glorious seafood pasta, it is little wonder that this is THE place to eat for San Paolo’s locals. The creamy espresso and complimentary strawberry liqueur don’t do any harm either. Open dinner and lunch.

Getting here: Take metro line B to San Paolo. Take the Via Ostiense exit. Turn left onto Via Ostiense and walk about 200m. You can’t miss it. (For more info, visit the restaurant’s website.)

About the author: Claire is a freelance journalist currently eating and drinking her way through Rome following a stint as a reporter in West Africa. Before opting to pursue the glamorous life of an international woman of mystery, Claire was a lawyer whose incurable wanderlust soon led her to far more exotic and interesting places. Claire’s work has appeared in the Sydney Morning Herald, TNT Magazine, Way2Go Magazine and the Ghanaian Times.

Popularity: 9% [?]

Venice cheap souvenir: Pasta!

Monday, November 17th, 2008

Venice pasta selection
Venice pasta selection. Photo by Daneen Vol.

It’s true, you can buy a bag of pasta just about anywhere. However, purchasing colorful pasta in Venice not only carries the stamp of Italian authenticity, but it offers a cheap and tasty solution to a potentially costly dilemma!

Check-out bags of pasta in Venice

Pasta’s story goes way back: The Chinese had noodles in 1500 BC, the Greeks had “lagana” in the second century, and the Arabs may have brought pasta to Sicily. Though the origins of pasta in modern Italy are uncertain, it is clear that local chefs and manufacturers have turned strips of dough into a very profitable trade.

When in the twisty streets of Venice, we suggest starting your pasta search at the iconic Rialto Bridge spanning the Grand Canal. Walk west toward the Pescheria, the fish market, also along the canal. Keep your eyes peeled for food specialty shops of all kinds.

Small bags of rigatoni, farfalle, and pennoni lisci start at around €3. Aliani (Casa del Parmigiano) at Erberia Rialto 214/5 in the San Polo district, near the vegetable market, has been open since 1936 and sells cheese, pasta, and ready-made picnic dishes. To start your mouth-watering research online, check out Gourmet Pantry’s Italian pasta inventory.

While you’re at it…

Tear out of town with a few sheets of marbled paper. Venetians specialize in the art of dipping paper into liquid gum before adding paint to create swirls of visual delight. Alberto Valese-Ebrû at Camiello Santo Stefano 3471 in San Marco uses the marbling technique on fabrics and papers. Prices vary depending on paper quality and craftsmanship.

Popularity: 14% [?]

France: Fresh Pasta (and Ice Cream) in Toulouse

Friday, April 20th, 2007

Toulouse
Photo by ajmiller82

Toulouse is France’s fourth largest city. Fondly known as “la ville rose” because of the color of the bricks made from the area’s clay-rich soil, the city has a distinctive meridional flavor and is well worth a detour on any tour of southern France.

Toulouse centers on the Place du Capitole, a splendid square lined with cafes and occupied on one side by the facade of the City Hall or Capitole. All the main sights—such as the Fondation Bemberg and the Musee des Augustins, one of France’s oldest museums—are within walking distance of the city center. Toulouse combines the relaxed elegance of a town proud of its rich architectural heritage, the exuberance of its big student population, and the prosperity incumbent on being world headquarters to Airbus.

For a good, affordable meal found along the narrow streets that irrigate the Capitole, head for Mille et Une Pates at 1 bis rue Mirepoix, just off the rue Gambetta. Mille et Une Pates specializes in home-made pasta with traditional sauces such as bolognaise and carbonara, as well as more innovative ones such as lasagne with leeks and bacon. At lunchtime you can order the “menu express” at €9.50 and get the dish of the day—the day we went it was nouillettes with kebabs—followed by dessert (raspberry lasagne or ice-cream). A big plate of tagliatelle bolognaise costs €7.80.

For the best ice creams in Toulouse, check out Octave on the place du Capitole.

Popularity: 3% [?]