Paris: 12 things worth splurging on in Paris

Monday, February 1st, 2010
Ladurée macarons. Photos by Theodora Brack.

Macarons from Ladurée. Photos by Theodora Brack.

By Theadora Brack in Paris—

Grocery store chains may be your best bets for cutting costs while living in Paris, and they’re perfectly fine and dandy for long-term stays, but what if you’re visiting for just a week or two? Well then, I say, live it like it’s your last!

Visiting one of the finest food capitals of the world, a place chock-full of bountiful “Bon Produits” (specialty shops), all managed by certified gastronomical experts who are more than willing to share their vast wealth of knowledge, is abso-fruga-lute-ly not the time to shop at a chain grocery store in order to save a few centimes.

Splurge on a café.

Splurge on a café.

So take in all those wonderful boulangeries, pâtisseries, chocolatiers, confiseries, glaciers, éspiceries, fromageries, charcuteries, poissonneries, caves, and cafés with a clear conscience. And don’t be shy. Ask for recommendations! Ask questions, and in the process you’ll take home more than the receipt.

Here’s my personal sampling of things to not miss while in France. Cheapos, splurge on!

1. Crème brûlée

Before cracking open this classic beauty, lift the ramekin to your ear, and lightly tap on its hard, caramelized topping with your spoon. Breathe in. Savor the moment.

2. Pain au chocolat

The proper way to eat it is to pinch off teeny morsels with your fingertips to make it last as long as possible. However, I usually peel the individual layers off slowly, thoroughly enjoying each melted chocolate nugget I encounter.

3. Fromage

Big wheels do keep on turning. Like skirts, cheese is seasonal, and the variety is endless. So pace yourself! Start off with the “Cantal jeune.” Named after the volcanic peaks of the Cantal mountain range, it’s hard to find this one-month-old taste sensation outside of France. Why, even the Sun King gave it his Good Palace-Keeping seal of approval. Also, don’t hesitate to ask the fromager for a cheese recommendation based on the wine you just bought down the street. They’ll gladly help you out.

Fresh baguettes.

Baguettes from Gérard Mulot.

4. Baguette

If it’s still warm from the oven, do as the locals do and rip a chunk off and pop it in your mouth as soon as you step out of the bakery. I’ve noticed that males tend to carry their baguettes like caveman clubs, while women usually cradle their bread.

5. Macarons and meringues

The ultimate instant sugar rush—but what-the-hey? You only live once, right? That’s what she said. Catherine de Medici’s Italian pastry chefs introduced the macaron to France, and Ladurée is credited with its stream-lined modern sandwich-look.

6. Wines

It’s perfectly normal to say, “I’m looking for something around five euros to go with [fill in the blank].” Trust me, everyone else is asking the same question. Tip: Caviste Pascal Fauvel at La Cave de Abbesses at 43 rue des Abbesses clearly marks his recommendations with heart-shaped signs that read, “Coup de coeur maison.” Others follow suit.

7. French onion soup

Yummy escargot

Yummy escargot

Day or night, it’s a hot and hearty Cheapo happy meal (sans prizes).

8. Escargots

If you end up loving them (and most people do) then you’ve made a culinary discovery, and if not, at least you’ve got a funny story to tell, and everyone will admire your bravery. I usually order my snails bathed in garlic, butter, and herbs in their little spiral shells. Yum!

9. Crêpes

“Je voudrais une banane-chocolat crêpe, s’il vous plaît,” is another one of my tickets to paradise.

Tartes at Les Petits Mitrons.

Tartes at Les Petits Mitrons.

10. Tarte

Any ole tarte will do as long as it comes from Les Petits Mitrons at 26 rue Lepic in Abbesses, just up the street from the Moulin Rouge, and kitty-corner from the café featured in the film “Amélie.” You can also buy your pie by the slice!

11. A drink in Parisian café

If you visit Paris and miss out on this experience, Cheapos, we are no longer friends. Yes! Your alcoholic or non-alcoholic drinks will cost a little more than in a grocery store, but the upside is that you’ll be given courtside seats to people watching, and you can stay as long as you like.

12. At least one article of clothing

For the simple love of bragging rights, do pick up a scarf, shirt, or slacks. Then, for years to come you’ll be able to say, “Oh, this old thing? I picked it up in Paris years ago!”

Cheapos, do you have a favorite French treat? Do tell!

Popularity: 5% [?]

Paris: Overcome jet lag with this tasty walking tour

Tuesday, November 24th, 2009
Ejoying sweets and sculptures at the Musée Rodin Sculpture Garden.

Sweets at the Musée Rodin Sculpture Garden. Photos by Theadora Brack.

By Theadora Brack in Paris—

Wake up! Wake up, you Cheapo-heads! Even in the City of Light, beating jet lag during the winter season is a difficult feat for most. Yes, the sun also rises, but not until late morning…

So to help out with jet lag in Paris, here’s an eye-opening walking tour with a sculptural twist, geared to jumpstart all six senses.

1. Food for thought

Start out at the Gérard Mulot Pâtisserie at 76 rue de Seine (Metro: Mabillon). Here you’ll find a bustling local crowd, service always with a smile, and a mind-boggling array of cakes, macaroons, and tartes that are gastronomical works of art.

With provocative names like “Miroir Passion”, “Sortilège” (”magic spell”), “Coeur Frivole”, and “Magie Noir”, the sweets will seductively compete for your attention. So keep your head and pace yourself. Take your time. Savor the moment. No one’s gonna kick you out. It’s Paris, after all.

The sweets on offer at Gérard Mulot Pâtisserie.

The sweets on offer at Gérard Mulot Pâtisserie.

2. A free museum

Speaking of masterpieces, before waking the taste buds, pick up a little formidable inspiration at the Musée du Compagnonnage at 10, rue Mabillon (just around the corner from the pâtisserie).

Rarely mentioned in the guidebooks, this free museum is dedicated to the history of trade guilds and is packed with intricate scale models of staircases, belfries, domes, and pulpits—all created by master carpenters-in-the-making. After seeing what went into building all those Gothic towers and Baroque palaces, you’re bound to experience the city in a totally new light. (Open Monday through Friday, 2 PM to 6 PM.)

3. Dejeuner sur l’herbe (“Lunch on the Grass”)

Taking a cue from Manet, hotfoot it over to the Musée Rodin Sculpture Garden at 79, rue de Varenne. The walk should take you about 45 minutes, but with the architectural underpinnings whizzing by, it will feel like fifteen.

With your Mulot sweets beside you in the Rose Garden, you’ll be able to delight your tongue while feasting your eyes on Rodin’s chocolaty bronzes and sugary marbles (a comparison that even the artist himself was aware of; he sometimes called them his “patisseries”). And all for just one euro! (Closed Mondays.)

4. Designer scarf with a cause

A lion sculpture at Église Saint-Sulpice.

A lion sculpture at Église Saint-Sulpice.

If it’s chilly out, pick up a striking red scarf at the boutique agnès b. on 6, rue Vieux- Colombier. Not only are they inexpensive (€15), but the proceeds also go to various humanitarian causes, including the fight against AIDS. Sold by designer Agnès Bourgois Troublé since 1988, you’ll find the unisex scarves (in lamb’s wool during the winter and cotton during the summertime) by the checkout register. Free gift-wrapping!

5. Heavenly rest at Saint-Sulpice

Finally, catch your breath by breaking with the lions outside the Église Saint-Sulpice before hanging with its Delacroix’s inside.

And all you DaVinci-Coders, don’t leave without walking the famous Rose Line (up near the altar). And if you’re lucky, you may be treated to the sounds of someone rehearsing on one of the finest organs in Europe, too. Talk about a moment to savor!

Cheapos, saisissez le jour! (P.S. Happy birthday, dad!)

Popularity: 6% [?]

Paris Cheap Eats: Beyond baguettes at the boulangerie

Monday, June 15th, 2009
Lunchtime at a boulangerie in the Marais. Photo by Tom Meyers.

Lunchtime at a boulangerie in the Marais. Photo by Tom Meyers.

By Liz Webber in Paris—

For many people, living in Paris (or just visiting) conjures up visions of buying fresh baguettes and croissants every morning at the local “boulangerie.” But those delightful bakeries offer so much more than breakfast breads! They can also serve as a Cheapo-friendly lunchtime resource!

Here’s our guide to the boulangerie’s ”other” baked goods, thinking beyond the baguette…

So many quiches. So little thyme. Photo by Yisris.

So many quiches. So little thyme. Photo by Yisris.

More “pain,” all gain

First off, there is much more to French bread (“pain”) than the baguette.

I’m a bit partial to the “tradition,” which is much softer than a baguette and tastes a little like sourdough. There are also “boules,” or round breads, and most boulangeries now offer whole-grain options. You’ll be hard-pressed to find any loaf of French bread that costs more than €2.

Similarly, it’s time to branch out from the standard croissant. Go for broke on the calorie-meter with a “pain au chocolat”, often mistakenly called a “chocolate croissant” in the U.S. (The word “croissant” implies a crescent shape, whereas a “pain au chocolat” tends to be somewhat square.)

Though not as extensive as a “patisserie” (a bakery that specializes in pastries), boulangeries offer a full range of “tartes” and other small pastries to satisfy your sweet tooth.

Baguette sanwiches on display. Photo by Yesris.

Baguette sandwiches on display. Photo by Yesris.

Lunch to go: Baguette sandwiches, quiches, and more

The boulangerie is a great place to pick up a quick lunch to eat on the go or bring to a picnic.

Small baguette sandwiches are reasonably-priced (around €3-4). A “jambon buerre” (ham with butter) is a pretty standard French option, although you’ll also find sandwiches with “thon” (tuna), “poulet” (chicken), “ouef” (egg), and more.  When the shopkeeper asks if you’d like your sandwich “avec salade,” she wants to know if you’d like one with lettuce and tomato or just the meat.

Other lunch options range from quiche to mini pizza to “croque monsieur” (a ham sandwich with cheese baked on the outside), depending on the bakery.

Formule: Make the most of your lunch money

Most boulangeries offer a “formule,” a lunch special that includes a sandwich, a dessert, and a drink. The price depends on the location and sometimes on the type of sandwich you order. Expect to pay between €5-7 for the meal.

As with all shops in France, the majority of boulangeries will be closed on Sundays, except for in highly touristed areas. If you do find a boulangerie you like open on Sunday, odds are it will be closed if you try to return on Monday.

Tell us!

Do you have a favorite boulangerie in Paris? Or a French bread product you just can’t live without? Tell us about it in the comments section.

Popularity: 12% [?]

Paris Cheap Eats: 8 great picnic spots

Wednesday, May 7th, 2008

Where to picnic in Paris

When the weather turns warm, Parisians picnic. Sure, some stray as far as the terrace of their corner café, but many flock to parks, gardens and river-side quais to enjoy their beloved city. For cheapos, picnics have the added advantage of being easy on the budget.

Here are our steps for procuring and perfecting the Parisian picnic.

When in Paris, stock up like the French do!

Pick up your must-haves in this order. Hit up the corner boulangerie for bread, then visit the fromagerie for cheese. Next stop? A traiteur where quiches, terrines, salads and other prepared foods are the mainstay. And of course the marchand de vin for an inexpensive, but lovely, bottle of wine, and, finally, the patisserie for some fabulous desserts. Even better, hit a weekly neighborhood outdoor food market, where you can actually barter with the sellers and snag everything in one trip. Check for days and hours.

Pick a picnic spot, but not any spot.

We have some favorites. In no particular order…

La Cour Carré at the Louvre (1st arrondissement): This enclosed courtyard at the eastern end of the Louvre is a fabulous spot for a petit repos. At any time of day, large, flat benches free for the taking are bathed in sun, and in the evening the museum’s lighting stunningly showcases the surrounding building’s architecture. Hang out and listen to musicians and performers, who play under the arches and near the fountain at the square’s center. There’s no better antidote to a busy day of sightseeing.

Pont des Arts (1st and 6th arrondissement): Exit the Cour Carré’s south (river) side, and you’ll find yourself facing the Pont des Arts, a pedestrian bridge that turns into a sunset lovers’ rendez-vous on summer evenings. Views in all directions show off Paris’ sightseeing highlights. Here, you are perfectly poised to enjoy views of most every major Paris monument. Don’t forget the champagne!

Jardin du Palais Royal (1st arrondissement): Central Paris’ hidden gem is the Jardin. Even those who know its location can struggle to find an entrance through the arcades. The easiest way we’ve found is through Place Colette, by the Palais Royal Musée du Louvre metro station. The peaceful gardens, fountains and historic buildings surrounding the square are breathtaking.

The quais on Sunday (1st and 4th arrondissement): On Sundays, Paris’ river quais are closed to traffic and open to strollers, bikers, roller bladers-and, you guessed it: picnickers. One favorite stretch-out site is the grassy, tree-lined spot on the right bank facing Ile Saint-Louis. Sit back, relax and enjoy the sights.

Ile Saint-Louis (4th arrondissement): The banks of Ile Saint-Louis rank as one of Paris’ most romantic spots to set up for an evening apéritif. Join locals sipping champagne and watching the Bateaux Mouches pass as the sun sinks behind the Seine. The most coveted spot is at the western-most tip of the island (with views of Hotel de Ville and Ile de la Cité). To get down to the river bank, take any of the stairways from the street.

Square Jean XXIII behind Notre Dame (1st arrondissement): This lovely garden behind the famous cathedral is much quieter than the touristy square in front, with arguably just as good a view. Shaded benches and impressive rose and flower beds make it a nice pause point before or after an encounter with church-visiting crowds. It’s also convenient to Ile Saint-Louis.

Square Tino Rossi (5th arrondissement): Enter from Quai Saint Bernard where a pedestrian path runs down to the river just after Pont de Sully and you’ll find one of Paris’ prettiest Seine views, facing Ile Saint-Louis and the back spires of Notre Dame. This park has a lively evening outdoor music and dance scene. Watch a tango lesson, or better yet join in!

Rue de Seine, square G. Pierne (6th arrondissement): This is a convenient little stopping point to quickly eat purchases from rue de Seine’s nearby boulangeries and to-go sandwich shops. Don’t miss the whimsical design of the benches in the form of open books.

About the author: Jamie Cahill is author of The Patisseries of Paris, a guide to the city’s bakeries, chocolatiers, ice cream parlors, tea salons and other spots for a light bite. A lifelong dessert lover, Cahill spent four years indulging her sweet tooth in Paris before relocating to London.

Popularity: 22% [?]