The scene at United Islands Prague. Photo by czechian.

By Jacy Meyer in Prague—

Planning a trip to Prague this year? One of central Europe’s most historic and picturesque capitals will mesmerize you with its charm and beauty. But it’s not all architectural oohs and ahhs—there are plenty of festivals and other events sure to enliven your experience. Check these out!

FebioFest
March 25-April 4, 2010
website

The Czech Republic’s largest non-competitive international film festival is one of the most popular events on local film lovers’ calendars. The festival specializes in full length films from just about every genre: documentaries, retrospectives, and premieres.

The majority of films are shown at a city center multiplex and tickets are a nice cheapo 79 CZK. An added bonus for Cheapos is the accompanying FebioFest Music Festival. The event is held in the cinema’s underground garage, and bands range from ska to rock-n-roll to pop and admission is free!

Prague Spring
May 12-June 4, 2010
website

Prague’s premier international music festival isn’t the most bargain event on the calendar, but it’s worth every koruna. This year’s program offers performances of work by Mozart, Martinu, and Hayden, to name a few.

From theater to opera to early music performances, Prague Spring is a stellar musical extravaganza. Plus, the event is held in some equally stunning venues. Viewing concert halls like the Rudolfinum and the Municipal House is a free added feast for your eyes.

Czech Beer Festival
May 14-May 30, 2010
website

A bit more low-brow than Prague Spring, the Czech Beer Festival is a fun feast of a different kind. Admission is free to this event full of Czech beer, Czech food, and Czech fun. Servers in traditional Czech dress and music playing all day long makes this a cheerful place to spend an afternoon.

Prague Fringe Festival
May-28-June 5
website

Prague’s own mini-version of the Edinburgh legend, the Fringe here brings a welcome dose of English theater and comedy to the city. Expect lots of favorites from past Edinburgh Fringes as well as fun newcomers.

Prague Museum Night
June 12, 2010
website

Like many other European cities, Prague hosts its own museum night. On the designated night, hundreds of museums around the city are open for free from 7 PM-1 AM. Free transport is available from venue to venue. Visit the bigger museums early; this is an extremely popular event and lines form quite quickly.

United Islands of Prague
June 24-26, 2010
website

This international outdoor music festival is one of the most popular events in Prague. Featuring a range of musical acts from around the world, the concerts are showcased on three Vltava River islands. The festival is free, and plenty of after-parties take place in area clubs.

To find out what else is going on when you’re in town, check two of the biggest ticket sellers: Both Ticketpro.cz and Ticketstream.cz have easy search-by-date functions.

Popularity: 3% [?]

Tasty "Veg Food" in Prague. Photo by Jacy Meyer.

By Jacy Meyer in Prague—

In the land of pork and dumplings, it’s often hard for vegetarians or anyone looking for a vegetable with their meal to find something acceptable to their palate. Never fear veg-heads, EuroCheapo bring you a round-up of some of the best vegetarian restaurants in Prague.

Lehká Hlava
Borsov 2, New Town - Prague 1
website

Often listed as a vegetarian fave, “Clear Head”  gets raves from meat eaters as well. As the restaurant leans a bit Mediterranean, you can graze over their eggplant tartar, pasta with tofu or tempeh, or choose one of their decent Mexican items (especially the big burritos). Lehká Hlava has a funky, semi-spacey decor, and reservations are recommended.

Bona Vita
Václavské námestí 43, New Town – Prague 1

Bona Vita is the local health food company that produces a lot of natural and vegetarian foods. Their restaurant is in a passageway off of Wenceslas Square, quite convenient if you’re in the center. Bona Vita’s menu used to be much larger and more exciting; they offered Mexican, Asian, Italian, and more with the front half being with meat; the second half with meat substitutes. Now they only have 2 pages of meatless offerings and prices have gone up a bit. Nonetheless, the food is still tasty.

Country Life
Melantrichova 15, Old Town – Prague 1
website

Another natural and organic restaurant, Country Life is a buffet-style restaurant close to Old Town Square that is popular to say the least. Food is sold by weight, so you pay for what you think you can eat. Hot and cold selections, plus soup, desserts, and free water make this a bargain hunter’s dream. Beware: lunchtime sees the smallish place packed with area business people. Make it an early or late lunch for more assured seating. There’s a decent sized health food store out front; the restaurant is in the courtyard.

Maitrea
Týnská 6, Old Town – Prague 1
website

Lehká Hlava’s not-so-wild cousin is one of the newest veg places in town. The decor is a bit milder, the space bigger, and the menu slightly more affordable. They offer a daily set lunch menu for 108 CZK ($5.90) that includes soup, a main dish, and small water. There’s even a vegetarian version of the traditional Old Bohemian Plate; this time with beets and tofu.

Veg Food
Londýnská 35, Vinohrady – Prague 2
website

Nestled on a residential street, Veg Food is not just a clever name. It is all veg with lots of items using meat substitutes. The spring rolls and sushi are two of the best choices. It’s easy to find something under 100 CZK ($5.45), so it’s also a great budget choice. Only non-alcoholic drinks are served here, and the restaurant is non-smoking. Veg Food offers a great daily lunch special, and the place fills up. Dinnertime, however, is quieter and the staff is very pleasant.

Beas Vegetarian Dhaba
Týnská 19, Old Town – Prague 1
Belehradská 90, Vinohrady – Prague 2
website

This is one of the best Cheapo finds, whether you are vegetarian or not. Beas is a cafeteria-style Indian restaurant with a daily meal that includes your choice of two kinds of subji; two kinds of dhal; two kinds of rice; plus a small salad and cup of soup. The small menu is 88 CZK ($4.80), the large 98 CZK ($5.35). They also have other items you can order separately and there are pitchers of free water on every table.

The Old Town location is a bit smaller, and gets crowded quickly. It’s better in the summer thanks to the large front courtyard. The Prague 2 location is bigger and also has a small outdoor eating area. Beas is a non-smoking restaurant.

Popularity: 3% [?]

A traditional Czech meal. Photo by Smaku.

By Jacy Meyer in Prague—

Last week, we shared three Cheapo-friendly pubs in Prague. To maximize your Czech eating experience, however, there are a few more things you should know about where and when to go, as well as how much to leave for the tip.

Read on to make sure you’re getting your Czech kroners’ worth!

1. Go at lunch time.

Nearly every traditional Czech restaurant offers a lunch menu with prices usually around 99 CZK. The menu often isn’t translated; however it gives you an excellent, cheap excuse to be adventurous. Sides, like French fries, potatoes, rice etc. usually aren’t included, so be sure to order them separately.

2. Go before (or after) the crowds.

That said, expect packed restaurants at lunch time. Czechs know a good value when they see one, and city center restaurants are usually packed around the noon hour. Plan on a full restaurant (go right at 11 AM, typical opening times for most restaurants, or around 1 PM; the lunch specials usually last until 2 PM) and count on brusque service. If you order from the lunch menu, your food will come fast; if you order off it, you’ll have to wait.

3. Watch your bill.

Legally, a restaurant must tell you if service is included. It’s hit or miss if they actually will. Have a rough idea of what your bill should be ahead of time. An extra beer often finds its way onto unsuspecting tabs.

4. Go easy on tips.

Usually rounding up is enough of a tip; minimum 10-20 CZK. If service is horrid, don’t feel bad about not tipping, and if it’s good, 10% is quite generous.

Your Prague restaurant tips

Have any Prague dining tips, Cheapos? Post a comment to share.

Popularity: 4% [?]

Good meals await at U Provaznice, in Prague. Photo: Jacy Meyer

By Jacy Meyer in Prague—

Prague is no longer the undiscovered, inexpensive “Eastern” European city it used to be, and prices definitely reflect the Czech capital’s popularity. City centers aren’t usually the best places to find a cheap meal, but that doesn’t mean an affordable and authentic Czech meal—complete with a yummy local beer—can’t be found.

Here are three of my favorite pubs in central Prague:

U Jindrišské veže
Jindrišská 26, Prague 1

Near Wenceslas Square, “At the Jindrišská Tower” offers plentiful plates of Czech pub grub. Pictures of old Prague line the walls, while outside, the historic Jindrišská Tower looms overhead. Dark wooden tables sassily covered in beer tablecloths fill up quickly for their “smažený sýr,” ” tatarská omácka” (fried cheese with tarter sauce), and “kurecí prsa na žampionech” (chicken breast with mushrooms).

Beer fans take note: They offer tank Gambrinus (tank beer is supposedly the best), plus the well-known Pilsner Urquell and Kozel dark, one of the most popular dark brews.

U Provaznice
Provaznická 3, Prague 1

At the other end of Wenceslas Square, right near one of the Mustek metro entrances, you’ll find U Provaznice (translated as “At the Rope maker’s wife”). Look for the wooden statue near the entrance—legend has it you should touch her breasts for good luck. A small space (keep walking around the bar towards the left for more tables in the back), it’s often packed, but the waiters are usually of the friendly sort.

Go there for their great “vepro, knedlo, zelo” (pork, bread dumplings, and cabbage) or “smažené veprové rízky” (pork schitznel). The low ceilings, brick accents and light wood tables offer a cozy atmosphere.

Lokál
Dlouhá 33, Prague 1

Run by a well-regarded local restaurant group, Lokál is the place to go if you want Czech atmosphere without the traditional ambiance. Confused? This new restaurant, opened in the fall of 2009, recreates the Czech pub experience in a modern way. Here you’ll find a typical pub menu and long wooden tables spruced up with modern lighting and design.

It’s a small menu. Go for some “svícková hovezí pecene na smetane” (beef tenderloin in a cream sauce) or “guláš z hovezí kližky” (beef goulash). Prices are shockingly low for the location and evidence of its upscale nature can be found in its decent wine list and competent service. Close to Old Town Square, Lokál has quickly become a favorite among the locals.

Popularity: 4% [?]

The lovely town square at Horsovsky Tyn. Photos © hidden europe.

By Nicky Gardner and Susanne Kries in Berlin—

Many tourists have a natural herding instinct. (Not you, of course, as you’re surely more discriminating than the average traveler!) However, the overwhelming majority of North Americans visiting the Czech Republic sadly still stay only in Prague.

Until this year, Eurail train passes did not even include the Czech Republic—although holders of Eurail passes valid in Germany or Austria could purchase a vastly overpriced add-on which allowed one return journey from the Czech border to Prague and back via the quickest route. It’s no surprise, therefore, that pass holders didn’t wander around the Czech Republic, but made a quick dash to the capital, stayed the usual two or three nights, and then headed straight back for the border.

One other Czech destination, Cesky Krumlov, developed a fad appeal for a spell, and backpackers drinking their way through Europe flocked to the small town in southern Bohemia only to find that the place also holds a magnetic pull for elderly Austrians who make day trips to Cesky Krumlov to indulge in coffee and cake.

Beyond Prague and Cesky Krumlov

Yet “Off the Beaten Path” Bohemia is a superbly good value, a part of Europe where the prices of accommodation, food, drinks and travel have scarcely risen over the last decade. Bohemia boasts some of the finest town squares in Europe and, for those who know their Hussites from their Habsburgs, some wonderful insights into the religious, political, and social history of central Europe.

5 Star Attractions in Bohemia

So, especially for EuroCheapo, here is the hidden europe quintet of perfect Bohemian hideaways. These are small towns, and are all very different places. Each surely warrants a visit in its own right, but taken as a fivesome, the quintet offer the very best of hidden Bohemia.

Western Bohemia: Horsovsky Tyn and Domazlice

Domazlice's town square.

Horsovsky Tyn and Domazlice are our two top choices for western Bohemia. The two towns are near the Bavarian border and just a dozen miles apart. They both boast superb town squares, utterly different from each other, but very beautiful. Both spots are about three hours by fast train from Prague.

Heading North: Litomerice

The city of Litomerice in northern Bohemia combines Hussite tradition with an almost Mediterranean, laid back approach to life. With another great central square, one of the largest in Europe, the city is by far the most accessible from Prague of our quintet of Bohemian stars, being just eighty minutes by train from the Czech capital.

Spa Diversions: Frantiskovy Lazne

Tucked away in the far northwest corner of both Bohemia and the Czech Republic are several small towns that deserve to be much better known. Some travellers have discovered the spa towns of Marianske Lazne (Marienbad) and Karlovy Vary (Karlsbad). But few foreigners venture to Frantiskovy Lazne, in our opinion the nicest of the trio of Czech spa towns close to the German border. It is four hours by direct train from Prague.

Following Goethe: Loket

Our fifth and last star town is Loket, a little hilltop town which the German poet Goethe is alleged to have said was his favorite spot in world. (This might be taken with a pinch of salt as Goethe was deeply infatuated with a local girl at the time, and nothing undermines impartiality of judgement quite like being in love.) It is four hours by train from Prague with one change along the way.

Eurail and the Czech Republic

We have already noted above that Eurail has extended its coverage to include the entire Czech Republic. But train fares are so remarkably cheap that purchasing a pass is hardly worthwhile. A one-way journey from Prague to the remotest corner of Bohemia by bus and train will never cost more than a few euros.

About the authors: Susanne Kries and Nicky Gardner are regular contributors to EuroCheapo and together edit hidden europe magazine. Their writing and photogaphy regularly feature in various European media.

Popularity: 8% [?]

Tasty samples at the Czech food festival.

This year, the month of May provides several tasty reasons to celebrate in the fair city of Prague. The weather turns milder and the city puts its food and beer on display. Here are two festivals, for gourmands and imbibers alike, that we think are worth czech-ing out.

Brew-ha-ha: Czech Beer Festival
May 22-31, 2009

Oktoberfest may be a standard in Munich, but in Prague the second annual Czech Beer Festival kicks off on May 22, 2009 (through May 31). Up to 50 brands of beers are featured this year, and large-scale tents will provide ample hop stops, as well as food stalls.

Taste, buy, and be merry! For more info, visit the event’s web site (in Czech only). 

Gourmet days: Czech Food Festival
May 29-31, 2009

What goes better with a little beer than some gourmet cooking? The third annual Czech Food Festival runs May 29-31 (time it right and you could do the beer and food fest over the same weekend!). This year’s festival features the intriguing (and potentially hard-to-swallow) theme, “Culinary Sensation in a Time of Crisis.”

Fun (and food) for all.

With food stalls and restaurant locations spread between the Charles Bridge and Manes Bridge (including some choice culinary stations positioned on boats and along the Vltava River), the event promises ”food with a view” and offers its guests tastes from 33 of Prague’s best-known restaurants in a pretty idyllic setting.

Delights span the culinary map. Aside from Czech delicacies, expect to sample Brazilian, Japanese, French, and kosher cuisine (to name but a few). The festival will also include some food-themed events, including the “Asparagus Cup,” which promises that attendees won’t leave without learning the many methods for using the lean, lanky veggie in day-to-day cooking.

Admission

Official admission to all events (including 10 food tasting vouchers) is 350 CZK (€13). Additional tasting vouchers cost 25 CZK each (about €.90), and a packet of ten is 250 CZK (about €9). Children receive a discount. More info can be found here.

Popularity: 12% [?]

Christmas market in Brussels, Belgium-photo by Ipoh 7

‘Tis the season to visit the European Christmas markets, Cheapos!

The Christmas Market Tradition

Europe’s holiday market tradition began in Germany and Austria. Today, many well-known markets, like those in Nuremberg and Munich, draw record crowds. Heck, there’s even a company that specializes in European Christmas market tours around the holidays.

The most popular markets can still be found in Germany and Austria, but cities in our other countries, like Copenhagen, Denmark and Prague, Czech Republic, throw their own festive fairs. Markets typically open during the last week of November and remain open until the day after Christmas.

Here’s a very merry round-up of the most notable Christmas markets In Europe. If you happen to be nearby, we recommend a browse-through.

Salzburg

The annual “adventmarkt,” filled with stalls, good eats, and more, takes place in Julius-Raab Platz. Check out the fantastical “Christkindlmarkt” web site for more info, or simply visit the Salzburg Tourism Info site here.

Vienna

Mozart’s main stomping ground is the veritable creme de la creme for Christmas market gurus. Fairs are open in multiple locations and feature live DJ music, petting zoos, gospel choirs, and authentic handicrafts. Visit the Vienna Tourism Board for info, dates, and directions to the markets.

Munich

Another mother lode when it comes to Christmas markets in Europe, the Munich Advent “markt” is expansive, boasting concerts, traditional food, and free historical tours of the market. The tourism board has more info, including how to get there, and where to park if you’re arriving by car. (Anyone who wants to offer their own caption for the photo that appears on this page, please pass it on. “Nordic vikings attack unsuspecting child at Munich Christmas market“?)

Berlin

Whether you like your markets authentic or chock full of special effects, Berlin’s the place to be if only for the number and sheer size of some of its markets. Most notably, the market in Potsdamer Platz, titled ”WinterMagic,” features a 4,000 square-foot outdoor space with a Ferris wheel, Legoland structure for kids to play in, and more. A comprehensive list of all markets can be found here.

Bonus: Download a FREE PDF history of the markets here, or watch this YouTube video for more info on the tradition of the German Christmas market. You can also visit the ‘markt’ section of the Berlin Tourism site for more info (in German only).

Copenhagen

The largest market can be found in Tivoli Gardens and has become an infamous go-to spot for getting into the spirit. Here, elves in full costume bounce among revelers and the light displays -orchestrated by the lead designer for Tiffany & Co - hang overhead. Games, ornaments, and much more are available. Check out the “Visit Copenhagen” site for info on this and many more Copenhagen markets. 

Brussels

This year, the Christmas market kicks off in Place St. Catherine. Ice skating is available. Be sure to buy some chocolates, and don’t forget to stop to see Manneken Pis in full Santa regalia. The “Visit Belgium” site has more info.

Prague

The Czech city really does it up with major fests in Old Town Square and Wenceslas Square. Smaller fairs occur elsewhere throughout the holidays. Check out the “Prague Experience” site for info, dates, and more.

Stay tuned this week as we take you through the European Christmas market circuit in daily photo montages.

Tell us: And, if you’ve been to a holiday market in Europe, tell us about it! What was it like? What did you buy or sample?

Happy Holidays, Cheapos!

Popularity: 25% [?]

A royal turkey spread, photo courtesy of RoadsidePictures

Sometimes you just can’t make it back to grandma’s house for Thanksgiving because you live (or are traveling) far, far away.

While a few Cheapos in our office were living in London the year before last, they had an admittedly hard time thinking about family back home, gathered around a table of carved turkey (or turducken), their aunt’s famous green bean casserole, and - especially - mom’s super-human homemade pecan pie.

Cue the drool!

Initially, these Cheapos thought about hosting a Thanksgiving feast at their flat, but didn’t find much in the way of Thanksgiving at Marks & Spencer. Instead, a restaurant in Notting Hill proved to be the right treat. The Cheapos gorged along with a packed house of other friendly American expats and had a happy, festive time.

While it could never be as good as grandma’s cooking, it sure tasted close to home. And while this year we’re all able to celebrate Thanksgiving with family, we thought it’d be helpful to round up a few suggestions for Americans abroad:

Paris
Join the Meetup Expats in Paris group for Thanksgiving dinner at Le Saint-Martin in the 10th arrondissement. Full details here.

Prague
Head over to the Radisson SAS Alcron Hotel and join the AARO (Association of American Residents Overseas) for a Thanksgiving meal. More information can be found here.

Brussels
A group of expats in Brussels will meet at the Sheraton Hotel, Place Rogier, for a meal on Thursday evening. Check out the American Club of Brussels calendar for more info.

London
If you plan to get meditative on turkey day, might we suggest the annual Thanksgiving service at St. Paul’s Cathedral. Folks in the local expat meetup group here meet at the cafe across the street first, to break bread beforehand.

Barcelona
The American Society of Barcelona hosts an annual dinner. This year, the event happens at the Hotel Arts (Pau Casals Room, Marina 19-21). Learn more here.

Rome
Friends in Rome hosts an event at Le Bain (Via delle Botteghe Oscure, 33). Reservations are required. To prepare for feasting, go here.

Budapest
Head over to the Budapest Marriott Hotel (Apáczai Csere János u. 4.) for a full spread. You can register when you get there. Or, try this guy; he’s willing to cook for your whole family!

OK Cheapos, now it’s your turn. Where will you be eating your European turkey and stuffin’ this Thanksgiving eve? Leave us a note here and we’ll pass it on.

Popularity: 19% [?]

A German train pulls into station. Photo by Francois Roche. 

It is that time of year when many travellers start sketching out their plans for 2009 trips to Europe. And for travel within Europe, many of the continent’s budget airlines will unveil their summer 2009 schedules in the coming weeks. Book early for the best discounts.

Plan ahead: Rail travel for next year

Rail travelers can still take a while refining their travel plans for summer 2009, for although many of the schedules are now becoming available, tickets do not generally go on sale until two to four months prior to travel.

The extension of the Europa-Spezial scheme to encompass many more countries means that canny travellers can now plan long treks across Europe with rail fares that greatly undercut even the lowest air fares.

Europa-Spezial: Great value for money

Europa-Spezial fares can be booked online at the German Railways website. Tickets generally go on sale 90 days prior to travel, so bookings can already be made for January 2009.

Choose your trains carefully and you can travel from Budapest to Cologne for just €39 one way - and you can include stopovers on the way (each for a maximum of 48 hours). We chose a Budapest - Prague - Berlin - Cologne routing, with en route stops for two nights in both Prague and Berlin, and found plenty of availability for mid-January 2009 at the lead-in €39 fare.

Other gems there for the taking are €29 one-way from Hamburg to Vienna (via Prague), €39 from Paris or Copenhagen to any station in Germany, and a €39 fare that will take you from any station in Belgium or the Netherlands to Basel on the Swiss border or to Salzburg in Austria.

First class options: Worth considering, even for Cheapos

If the lowest fare for your selected route is already sold out, you can still buy a Europa-Spezial ticket, but it will be priced at a higher tariff tier (e.g. €49, €69, and up). Europa-Spezial fares are also available for first class, and these are really worth checking.

Berlin to Vienna (either direct or with a one or two night stopover in Dresden) for €49 first class sounds almost too good to be true. If you find little availability for Europa-Spezial fares in second class, just have a look to see if the cheapest first class option is still available. First class sells out less quickly, and we have found many examples of journeys where remaining first class availability is cheaper than heavily-booked second class.

The great thing about these Europa-Spezial fares is that, subject to availability at the time of booking, you really can use them on the fast express services. The only real snag is that you must commit yourself to date and time of travel, but at such rock bottom fares that is scarcely a burden.

The new Europa-Spezial fares, along with long-standing promotions like discounted TGV fares in France, might really tip the balance as you weigh up whether it is worth buying a rail pass for 2009.

This article is by Nicky Gardner and Susanne Kries, who together edit hidden europe magazine, which explores people, places and communities across Europe. Every issue of hidden europe includes a lot of tips on budget travel, especially by rail.

Popularity: 100% [?]

Pilsner Urquell and a fabulous coaster. Photo by burge5000

Tourists flock to Prague for its Gothic architecture, striking art, affordable performances, and yes… zlevneny pivo, or “cheap beer.” Once you’ve polished off a half-liter of Staropramen, why not pick up the free coaster on which it sat?

Coast to coaster

For centuries, agricultural conditions in the Czech republic have proven ideal for growing hops. Historians place beer brewing as early as 859 AD. By 1200, most residents of the landlocked countryside had a home brew of their own. After the Velvet Revolution of 1989, investors started flooding into the Czech beer market, and the suds have been flowing ever since.

Today, the Czech population drinks an impressive (estimated) 156 liters of beer per person, per year. National brews, including Pilsner Urquell, Gambrinus, and Bernard, are served everywhere at anytime, even in breakfast cafés.

A half-liter of pivo ranges in price from CZK 24 to CZK 97 ($1.25 to $5 USD). Most pubs plunk drinks down on promotional coasters replete with enticing photos and slogans in the Western Slavik tongue. Grab yours… and maybe your neighbor’s, as well. They’ll be a hit back home.

While you’re at it…

Grab a bunch of arty Mucha postcards suitable for framing. Alfons Mucha was born in Ivancice, Moravia in 1860 and would later be attributed as the creator of the art nouveau art style. After dropping into a print shop in Paris, Mucha became an overnight sensation with his promotional poster for “Gismonda,” a popular play starring Sarah Bernhardt. Much postcards sell for CZK 12 ($.60 USD) to CZK 20 ($1 USD).

Popularity: 14% [?]