Postcards from France: First week on the road

Friday, August 7th, 2009
Velib program in the Marais

Velib program in the Marais

By Tom Meyers—

I just returned from 16 glorious days in France. The journey included six days in Paris and ten days on the road, driving through the rolling countryside to pebble beaches, sun-kissed villages, and major cities. Today I’m posting some “postcards” from the first week of the trip.

1. Vélib’ at work (above).

The good news: Vélib’, the city’s bike-share program, seems to be a smashing success. Bike stations are everywhere in the city, with new pick-up (and drop-off) stations being added frequently. The bad news: I didn’t get to try it out. I will next time, I promise.

paris-hotel-jeanne-darc

I took this photo of my room while brushing my teeth.

2. Hotel “Jeanne Dark”

We’ve recommended the Hotel Jeanne d’Arc in the Marais since the site launched in 2001. We’ve never had any complaints–it’s a cute guesthouse with a “country” touch and reasonable rates. When I stayed on July 25 with my parents, however, the hotel experienced a very unusual power outage. The rooms at the Jeanne D’Arc were without electricity all evening and night, meaning that teeth were brushed and faces washed by the lights from cell-phone screens, watches, and laptops. At 2:45 AM, POOF!, the juice came back on, and those of us with the switches flipped the wrong way experienced a bright, unscheduled wake-up call.

The fish are first presented.

The fish are first presented.

3. Bouillabaisse in Marseille’s Old Port

We took the TGV south to Nimes, and then rented a car and made day-trips around Provence. One of those trips was to Marseille, where we feasted on fresh fish at a restaurant along the (very active) port. Above, the waiter presents the fish before “preparing” them for the bouillabaisse.

The Roman Arena in Arles is still in use.

The Roman Arena in Arles is still in use.

4. The Roman Arena in Arles

Lovely Arles, in the heart of Provence, was colonized by the Romans in about 125 BC. Many important sites from those Roman days can be visited today and are a major tourist draw. The most popular of these is the town’s gorgeous Roman Arena, built in 1 BC, and still used today for bullfights.

A steep climb up to "la Cit&eacute" in Carcassonne

A steep climb up to "la Cité" in Carcassonne

5. Carcassonne’s “La Cite” is worth the hike

Heading west from Nimes, we drove through Montpellier and to the walled Medieval city of Carcassonne. We spent the night at the chic (and affordable) Maison Costes B&B in the town center, but dined in “la Cite,” the town’s famous walled fortress. From the city’s center, the hike isn’t very far, but it’s a steep one. And if you take advantage of the region’s delicious wines over dinner, the walk back—downhill—can be tricky!

Coming next week: Photos from week two!

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Nice cheap souvenir: Bottle of Pastis

Friday, October 24th, 2008

Pastis
Pastis and Pétanque. Photo by C-Reel

Nothing tastes better or more provencale, than a glass of pastis in the afternoon, before a hearty dish of bouillabaisse, or after dinner. For the love of Cheapo, when in Nice, please bring home a bottle of this delectable aperitif from the south of France.

Cheers back home

In 1915, absinthe, sometimes known as the “green fairy,” was banned in France. Pernod Fils and Ricard reformulated a drink without the illegal wormwood using less alcohol and more star anise and sugar. The strong liqueur is generally mixed with water, five parts to one. Clear on its own, pastis clouds when you add water to it. Use ice with caution as the cubes have a tendency to crystallize the pastis.

Though popular all over France, pastis is heavily associated with the lifestyle of southeastern France. You can pick up a bottle at almost any grocery store or supermarket. A 70 cl bottle will cost about €10.

NOTE: Americans may bring home 1 Liter of alcohol without paying any tariffs or taxes. More bottles may be brought back for personal use, but you will have to pay a tax. Read more on the US Customs website.

While you’re at it…

Pick up a bottle or two of rosé wine. With an emphasis on Mourvedre grapes, up to 80 percent of the wine manufactured in the Provence region is the charmingly pink-colored rosé. And don’t worry about rules governing what months are “okay” to drink rosé… it’s always a good idea, as far as we’re concerned!

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