A bridge on the harbor in Hamburg. Photo by Audrey Sykes.

By Audrey Sykes—

Hamburg, Germany’s great northern maritime city, deserves at least a weekend for exploration. From the moving World War II monuments to a bustling fish market, here’s a rundown on how to spend a cheap but worthwhile weekend in Hamburg.

Friday AM: Boats and beaches of the Elbe River

Cheap boat rides can be found along the Elbe River areas of Altona, Elbstrasse, and Landungsbrücken. They cost as much as a bus ride (about €1.60) and stop at many ideal places for eating, drinking, and sunning on the sandy beaches around the Elbe River. The Alster lake area is another option for organized boat tours.

Friday PM: Watching the St. Pauli Football Team

Snag tickets to one of the most raw, gritty, and hardcore soccer teams in Europe, the St. Pauli Football Team. St. Pauli has it all: a loyal fan base who love to party, sponsors like Hamburg’s signature Astra beer, and a skull-and-crossbones logo. It’s the “Harley Davidson” of European football.

Tickets range from €7-50. Check here for more information. The stadium is located near Feldstrasse, an area rich in World War II monuments, vintage shops, and a Saturday yard sale market.

Saturday AM:  Walking through Sternschanze

Stroll along the hip and bohemian Sternschanze neighborhood for a taste of Hamburg’s café terrace vibe and culture. Streets are lined with interesting boutiques, cheap eats, and bargain bars with a classic décor. A large park, the Planten un Blomen, is nearby – grab an ice cream and do some people-watching in the sun.

Saturday PM: Partying on Reeperbahn

Spend a night out on the Reeperbahn – Hamburg’s main party strip. See the blend of sailor roughness mix with trendy locals at the bars, music venues, clubs, and wurst stands. Beatle-maniacs should try out the nightlife around Grosse Freiheit, the street where the four “mop tops” made their European debut on stage and at parties.

Sunday AM: Stroll through the fish market

A Sunday morning in Hamburg is incomplete without a trip to the lively and exciting Fischmarkt. Located directly on the harbor from Reeperbahn S-bahn station, stroll around the dozens of seafood and produce stands. The market is action-packed with amusing characters and partygoers still out from Saturday night. Stop by anytime between 5 AM to noon.

Sunday PM: Historic Hamburg and the harbor

Spend the rest of Sunday walking along the Elbe River and surrounding harbor. Old harbor vessels permanently dock along the walkway as museums and cafés, and the surrounding area is a historic part of Hamburg undamaged from World War II.

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Photo by eks

A former flour mill, the Kampa Museum is, arguably we suppose, the highlight of Kampa Park. From the museum, bankside views of the Vltava are far less crowded than they are from the Charles Bridge. Plenty of trees offer shade for an afternoon nap or a perch from which the over-priced gelato sold at the kiosk just outside of the park’s entrance can be enjoyed.

Additionally, the cafe adjacent to the museum offers reasonably-priced wines, beers, and nibbles for riverside dining. Stop in after enjoying what is one of the best free art experiences in the city. Its roster includes Yoko Ono and Christo, and the lobby exhibitions are free—as is the entire museum on Mondays. Adults pay CZK 200 (€7; $9.40) and students and seniors pay a mere CZK100 (€3.50; $4.70) to see the both the permanent and František Kupka-Piet Mondrian exhibitions.

One of the coolest things about the Kampa just now is Julian Opie’s “Walking on the Vltava,” which includes two LED figures named Bruce and Suzanne walking outside on the river proper. A canal runs through the museum’s clear floor, and into the courtyard, allowing museum-goers to have their own Jesus moment.

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Photo by Jenny & Peter

Along the Vltava river, which Bedrich Smetana immortalized in his collection of symphonic poems “Má vlast,” now sits a museum that’s worth interrupting your riverside stroll. Go a little past the Charles Bridge and cut into the small side street of Novotneho lavka to visit the Bedrich Smetana Museum.

While the waistcoat pocket-sized museum doesn’t have the space or artifacts to compete with the Dvorak House or the Mozart Museum at Bertramka, there is nothing more Czech than listening to “Vltava” while sitting on the Vltava. Point the laser-tipped baton in the main section of the museum’s room towards any of the music stands to sample “Má Vlast,” the “Bartered Bride,” or a handful of other works by the composer.

More interestingly, and worth the price of the CZK50 (€1.75; $2.35) admission fee, is the display of Smetana’s ossicles—that is, his ear bones. They’re available for viewing under magnification among the standard mix of journals, letters, scores, and family photos.

Whether you’ve never heard of Smetana (for shame!) or can hum the “Bartered Bride” from memory, this is definitely a waistcoat pocket worth checking out.

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