The fountain in St. Peter's Square. Photo by xiquinhosilva.

By Samantha Collins in Rome—

A visit to Rome is not complete without seeing the Vatican. With its world-famous St. Peter’s Square, imposing dome, rather nice painted chapel ceiling, and fairly well-known resident, it has plenty of attractions. But with so much to see, where should you start?

1. St. Peter’s Square

This vast space is famous for being the home of Papal Addresses (and for being integral to the plot of Dan Brown’s “Angels and Demons“). It can accommodate up to 300,000 people, a number that puts the World Series Final crowd to shame.

Designed by Borromini so that the maximum number of people could see the Pope at any one time (before the days of plasma screens), its elliptical shape is dominated by the Basilica. Stand on the stone discs between the fountains and the Egyptian obelisk to see the rows of columns magically line up.

2. The Basilica

It is hard to put into words the immense size of this building. Look out for the dimensions of the world’s other large churches marked on the floor to give you a sense of its scale. The Basilica is free to enter, and highlights include Michelangelo’s Pieta (now sadly behind glass after it was attacked and damaged), Borromini’s vast altar canopy (the Baldacchino) made using bronze taken from the Pantheon roof, and the 13th-century statue of St. Peter Enthroned. Join the queue to kiss his foot for luck.

3. St. Peter’s Dome

For the best views of Rome, pick a clear day, get there early to avoid the queues, and prepare to make the climb up the 320 steps to the top of St. Peter’s Dome. You can take the lift for the first part, but a long climb still awaits you with a mix of spiral, steep, and strange slopes, taking you up to the viewing point where staggering views stretch out before you on every side.

It will cost you €4 to make the climb (or €7 if you use the lift at the start). Get your tickets at the office just next to the Basilica entrance, clearly marked after you have passed through security checks.

4. The Vatican Museums

The endless rooms filled with Vatican treasures are a great way to spend a few hours. The highlight has to be the Sistine Chapel (which, contrary to popular belief, is not in the Basilica), which you have to pay to see. While everyone knows about the famous ceiling by Michelangelo, look out also for his huge mural depicting the “Last Judgment” and Botticelli’s “Story of Moses“.

Also make time to see the Raphael Rooms, Caravaggio’s “Deposition,” and the Borgia Apartments. The entrance fee is usually €15, though if you visit the last Sunday of the month, it’s free (though you need to get there at around 7 AM to avoid the queue which extends to many hundreds of people).

5. The Necropolis

A little-known tour of the Necropolis takes you under the Basilica to the hidden city below. Excavated in the 1930s, the ancient streets are lined with tombs that are almost untouched by time. The highlight has to be seeing the alleged site of St. Peter’s tomb and looking up to see the dome towering about you through the floor grates. You need to book the tour around four weeks in advance by emailing the excavations office. Tours cost €12.

Top tips for visiting the Vatican

· Whether you are visiting the Basilica, the Dome, or the Museums, get there early to avoid long lines.

· In the Vatican Museums, head for the Sistine Chapel first, as the tour groups head there last.

· Cover shoulders and do not wear shorts.

· The queue in the piazza is for the security checks. Once through, keep left for the Basilica. The queue is for the Dome.

· Unless you want a plastic model of the Vatican that lights up and plays “Ava Maria,” or even a “Pope on a Rope” soap, avoid the tacky souvenir sellers.

· Do not buy a coffee or lunch within 1,000 meters of the Vatican unless you want to pay prices that will bring you to your knees.

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Exploring the Piazza Navona. Photos by Samantha Collins.

By Samantha Collins in Rome—

Exploring the Piazza Navona in Rome’s historic center is like visiting London’s Covent Garden but with a warmer climate and with much older buildings. The Piazza Navona is where you can find street entertainers, mime artists, portrait painters, and street cafes set amongst the backdrop of baroque fountains and elegant period buildings. You are likely to find something going on at any time of the year, whether it is a concert, a political demonstration, or the famous Christmas toy market.

A Slice of Piazza History

Originally, Piazza Navona was home to horse racing and jousting and was centered around an oval track that was built in 86 AD. At this time it was known as the Stadium of Domitian and could accommodate up to 33,000 spectators.

In the 13th Century, Sant’ Agnese was executed here after she refused to denounce her Christian beliefs and marry a pagan. Legend says that as she was paraded naked through the piazza before her execution, with just her hair protecting her modesty.

Fontana dei Quattro Fiumi

Romans often flooded the Piazza by blocking the fountain outlets. This meant that the aristocracy could enjoy being pulled around on an artificial lake in gilded carriages to take part in mock sea battles that were all the rage at the time.

Fontana dei Quattro Fiumi

The pride of the Piazza is Bernini’s Fontana dei Quattro Fiumi, which was commissioned by Pope Innocent X (look closely and you will see his insignia of doves in the design). The fountain was contentious when it was commissioned, as the money to pay for it was raised by unpopular taxes on bread and other staple foods. This fascinating Baroque creation pays homage to the four greatest rivers of the time, the Danube, the Ganges, the Nile, and the Plate. The fountain also features an Egyptian obelisk in its center.

A recent renovation has brought the Fontana dei Quattro Fiumi back to its former glory. Make sure to look for the two other fountains in the square: At the southern end you can find the Fontana del Moro by Giacomo della Porta and at the northern end there is the Fontana di Nettuno by Antonio della Bitta, depicting Neptune battling with a monster.

Sant’ Agnese in Agnone Church

The Chiostro del Bramante

Commissioned by Innocent X in 1652, this elegant 17th-century church commemorates the execution of Sant’ Agnese. It was built in part by Borromini, who created a notable, concave facade for the church.

At the time, there was intense rivalry between the Bernini and Boromini, and according to legend, the statue on Bernini’s fountain is holding its hand up to the church to protect himself in case it falls down. (From the church facade, a statue of Sant’ Agnes looks down, reassuringly confident in the strength of her church.) Whilst this is a nice story, the fountain was actually created before the church, so it sadly owes more to dramatic license than fact.

Another building of note around the Piazza is the Palazzo Pamphilj, which is now the Brazilian Embassy and which was also commissioned by Innocent X.

Take time to explore the narrow streets around the square especially around the Via della Pace which is a good place for nightlife. Take time also to visit the Chiostro del Bramante and the Santa Maria della Pace Church with its frescoes by Raphael.

Practical Notes

Piazza Navona is located in the historic center and is easy to reach on foot. If you prefer to travel by bus, take the 30 express or the 87, which both stop right by the square.

Note that buying coffee in the square is an expensive option. However, if you take a newspaper and linger at your table long after the coffee cups have been cleared away, you can get more than your money’s worth by just sitting and watching the world go by.

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The Gucci store on Via Condotti. Photo: Scalleja.

By Samantha Collins in Rome–

Whether you are seeking designer dresses or cheap chic, Rome has some of the best places to shop in Italy. The names of Italy’s finest designers sit alongside independent boutiques and market stalls as shopping in Rome caters to every budget.

Here is my “Top Five” guide to the best places to go whether you are looking for Prada shoes or a flea market bargain.

1. Via Condotti and the Spanish Steps

This is the home of Rome’s designer shopping area and where you will find Prada next to Armani with a sprinkling of Gucci. The shops that line Via Condotti entice your credit card out of hiding with their glittering window displays. Take time also for people watching, as this is the haunt of any celebrity in town worth their Hermes bag. And even if this is way out of your budget, remember it costs nothing to go in and unfold things.

2. Via Cola di Rienzo

This busy shopping street just behind Castle St. Angelo is home to mid-price shops with a mix of designer boutiques and high street chains. Look out for Brandy, a teenage basement clothes shop that is almost hidden below street level. COIN, one of Rome’s few department stores is a great place to spend an hour or two browsing.

For a bite, check out “Castroni,” a delicatessen that sells not only a fantastic range of Italian delicacies but also stocks international food. It’s the only place in Rome where you can buy peanut butter or baked beans! (Metro A, Lepanto or Ottiviano)

3. Via del Corso

This long narrow street is at the heart of Rome’s historic centre running from Piazza Venezia to Piazza del Popolo and a short walk from the Pantheon and the Trevi Fountain. During the evenings, the street is packed with shoppers. Wander around the mix of high street stores like H&M, Mango, Diesel, Levis, and Zara mixed with small designer boutiques, bookstores, and the elegant Galleria Alberto Soldi shopping centre.

4. Porto Portese Flea Market

Held every Sunday morning, this is the largest market in Rome and the place to come for a bargain. With a mix of second hand and new goods, food, antiques, and general bric-a-brac, spare at least a couple of hours to browse the endless rows of stalls.

Getting there: Tram 8 Largo Argentina to Trastevere Station – then about a five minute walk to Via Ippolito Nievo. Follow the crowds.

5. EurRoma2 and Castello Romano Outlet

Euroma2 is a newly-opened shopping centre in the EUR area of Rome spread over three floors in an elegant temple style with ornate glass domes. Chain stores and designer shopping sit alongside coffee shops and restaurants catering to all budgets. This is a good place to come during summer as it’s air-conditioned and all indoors.

Getting there: Take the Metro to EUR Palasport Metro Line B and then take the free shuttle bus that stops just outside, a journey of around 10 minutes.

Castello Romano is a designer outlet village, part of the McArthur Glen chain, around 15km south of Rome. Designer discounts housed in a mock ancient Roman village, brands here include Burberry, Calvin Klein, Dolce & Gabanna, and Roberto Cavalli.

Getting there: There is a bus service to the outlet that operates from EUR FERMI Metro Line B and there is a private shuttle that can be booked at most hotel receptions.

About the author: Samantha Collins is a freelance travel writer and editor, who has lived in Rome for the past two years.  She is originally from Manchester in the UK.  Read all about her adventures by visiting her blog, www.samanthacollinsrome.blogspot.com.

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La Vecchia Roma Pizzeria. Photo by arthurohm.

By Samantha Collins in Rome—

Whilst Italian food is considered to be among the best in the world, sadly you do not always get what you pay for. Tales of tourists being asked to pay €700 for a meal in Rome’s center (as happened during the summer) are happily rare, but substandard, overpriced fare is far more common that anyone would like to admit.

So following on from our list of authentic Roman restaurants that was previously published on our blog, here are three more restaurants with excellent food that won’t rip you off with made-up cover prices. Prices vary and are indicated as a guide.

(And remember, it is always cheaper to order house wine by the half liter than a bottle–”Vino Sfuso”.)

Vecchia Roma Pizzeria €
In the picturesque area on Monti with its charming winding cobbled streets and artists shops, this little pizzeria is a little treasure for a cheap eat close to the Colosseum. Vecchia Roma offers a simple menu of pizza and pasta dishes. Expect to pay between €5-8 for a pizza and around €4 for half a liter of red wine.

The restaurant is small so book in advance when possible. After the meal, it’s worth crossing the road to enjoy a pint at Finnegans Irish, a popular hangout for watching international football games.

Vecchia Roma, Via Leonina 10, Roma
Tel:     06 474 5887
website: http://www.colosseo.org/vecchiaroma/

Antica Birreria Peroni

L’Antica Birreria Perroni €€

This traditional restaurant, where locals sit almost cheek to cheek as they cram into every space to enjoy the good food on offer, dates back over 100 years. It is just a short walk from the Trevi Fountain down a small side street.

My favorite dish here is the “Bistecca di Manzo con patate or fagioli” (Steak with potatoes or beans), washed down with a glass of Peroni beer and chunks of bread–and costs around €16 per head. You cannot reserve a table, so you should expect to queue at busy times.

L’Antica Birreria Perroni, Via S. Marcello 19, Roma 00197
Tel:     06 679 5310
website: http://www.anticabirreriaperoni.net/

La Carbonara €€

This traditional, family-run osteria is in the Rione Monti district—just a short walk from Santa Maria Maggiore. A world away from the central tourist restaurants, this atmospheric place is a real local find which has served traditional dishes since 1906 using fresh simple ingredients.

Recommended dishes include the pasta with carbonara sauce followed by melt-in-the-mouth profiteroles. After the meal you are invited to leave your comments not in a visitors’ book, but by writing on the walls. Be warned that you need to book in advance, especially over weekends, and that the menu is only available in Italian. Expect to pay around €20 per head for a starter, main dish, and glass of wine.

La Carbonara

La Carbonara, Via Panisperna 214, 00184 Roma.
Tel:     06 482 5176
website: http://www.lacarbonara.it/

Top Tip – Get a receipt!

It is law in Italy to get a receipt when buying anything, including food and drink. It is possible (although almost unheard of) to be stopped when leaving a restaurant or coffee shop and, if unable to produce a receipt, be fined. The official receipt is called a “Scontrino Fiscale” and should have the restaurant Partitia IVA code printed on it.

Do not be afraid to ask for a receipt and do not accept handwritten scraps of paper. Not only are you breaking the law without it, but you could well find that the bill’s total suddenly drops when an itemized printed bill has to be produced. Also, do not be scared to challenge anything on the bill you are unsure of….  Or just follow our recommended lists to ensure you enjoy a true Italian meal!

About the author: Samantha Collins is a freelance travel writer and editor, who has lived in Rome for the past two years.  She is originally from Manchester in the UK.  Read all about her adventures by visiting her blog,www.samanthacollinsrome.blogspot.com.

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By Samantha Collins in Rome—

Things in Italy’s capital city are not always what they seem…

Here’s a fun sightseeing walk around Rome’s center that will illustrate the city’s penchant for illusions!  This guided walk takes you around the center, from Mount Testaccio, over the Aventine Hill, past the “Mouth of Truth,” and then along the banks of the Tiber to Palazzo Spada.

To start, take the Metro B Line or the 716 or 30 bus to Piramide and allow yourself an unhurried couple of hours.

Mount Testaccio – Rural Idyll or a Load of Old Rubbish?

Get to Mount Testaccio by walking behind Rome’s Pyramid and following Via Caio Cestio along the Protestant Cemetery walls. (It’s worth a peek inside as it contains the graves of Shelley and Keats amongst its illustrious residents.)

At the end of the street you arrive at the tree-covered hillside of Mount Testacccio. Look closely and you will see that instead of being filled with earth, it is actually made of around 50 million broken pottery jugs used to bring olive oil from Spain and Africa in 140-250 A.D. and subsequently discarded into a heap. Calculations suggest that this was equivalent to an annual consumption at that time of 22 litres of olive oil per person.

Through the Keyhole

From Mount Testaccio, follow Via Galvani until it crosses busy Via Marmorata, after which you can start the gentle climb up the Aventine Hill by taking Via Pollione and then keep bearing left.

This quiet residential area enjoys panoramic views of Rome with many viewpoints including the Orange Tree Garden. On arrival at Piazza di San Alessio head towards the dark wooden door set into the white stone wall on your left (see photo), place your eye to the keyhole and you will see…. No, sorry, you need to go and look for yourself.

Truth or Dare? Try your hand at the Mouth of Truth

Continue along Via Sabina descending down to Circo Massimo. Head left towards Piazza della Veritá and the Church of Santa Maria in Cosmedin with its distinctive bell tower.

This is home of Rome’s most famous manhole cover, the Mouth of Truth, immortalised by Audrey Hepburn in “Roman Holiday.” But beware: If you a person of a less-than-honest character and you place your hand inside the mouth, you are at risk of having it bitten off.

Palazzo Spada: A Question of Size…

Exit the church, cross the road past the round Temple of Hércules and climb the steps to the river. Turn right and follow the pleasant path along the Tiber turning at Via Giulia to reach Palazzo Spada Art Gallery in Piazza Capo di Ferro.

The Palazzo Spada is home to the private art collection of the Spada Brothers, as well as a clever illusionary corridor that appears to be three times longer than it is, due to some perspective trickery and a shrunken statue. Tip: You can see the corridor without paying the €5 fee to enter the gallery.

And finally… the Dome that does not exist

There is just one more treasure left to see on your illusions shopping list during your stay in Rome. Pop into the elegant St. Iganzio di Loyola Church, between Via del Corso and the Pantheon in the heart of Rome’s historic center, and then look up.

Then look again. The wonderfully ornate dome that you see above you is actually a clever optical illusion painted on a completely flat ceiling. The things these Romans did when the budget was a little tight!

About the author: Samantha Collins is a freelance travel writer and editor, who has lived in Rome for the past two years.  She is originally from Manchester in the UK.  Read all about her adventures by visiting her blog, www.samanthacollinsrome.blogspot.com.

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The Christmas market at Piazza Navona. Photo by Elizabeth Buie.

By Samantha Collins in Rome—

Whether your idea of a good Christmas break is ice-skating under the watchful eye of an ancient castle, sharing midnight mass with the Pope, or simply eating and drinking too much, Rome is the perfect place to indulge and celebrate. So just how should you spend the festive season in Italy’s Eternal City?

The Christmas toy market at Piazza Navona

Along with the usual array of portrait painters, mime artists and peddlers that gather around Piazza Navona at any time of year, come winter you’ll find the Christmas market set up on the square. The famous Piazza is transformed into a child’s paradise with brightly colored wooden toys on display, a traditional carousel, and hot roast chestnut stalls. Look out for Befana the witch, who brings gifts to Italian children on January 6 (Epiphany and Befana’s Feast day).

Attend the Midnight Mass in the Vatican

Every Christmas morning at the stroke of midnight, the Pope delivers his Christmas Mass. Tickets for the mass in St. Peter’s Basilica are free, but must be booked in advance. Visit the Vatican website for information on the mass timetable, which also includes carol services. For those who don’t have tickets, the service is broadcast live on large screens in St. Peter’s Square.

Ice skating by Castel St. Angelo on the banks of the River Tiber

Situated in one of Rome’s most beautiful settings, the Christmas ice rink under the shadow of Castel St. Angelo looks toward St. Peter’s Basilica. What could be more romantic? To get there, take either the Metro to “Lepanto,” or, better yet, take one of the many buses (such as the 30 Express or the 87) to Piazza Cavour.

Nativity scene hunting

Pop your head into any church during December and you’re guaranteed to see traditional nativity scenes on display. From the animals in the stable to the figures bearing gifts to the baby Jesus, these ancient displays are rich in detail and tradition. Don’t miss the huge one in St. Peter’s Square: Each year it has a different theme. Constructed behind curtains over the course of several weeks, it is finally unveiled in mid-December and stays on view for most of January.

Panettone and Torrone

Panettone is the traditional Christmas cake that is given to friends and relatives. Traditionally filled with candied peel, you can now find many other varieties in beautifully wrapped Christmas paper tied with ribbon. For a smaller gift, look out for the torrone, oblong chocolate bars in gift wrapping usually filled with nuts or nougat.

New Year’s Eve

Two of the main gathering places for the adult revelers are Piazza Navona and Piazza del Popolo. Many people also line the banks of the river with glasses of champagne to watch the fireworks. Try to avoid partaking in the other traditional festivity of wading drunkenly into the Trevi Fountain. It is illegal and you may find you start the New Year behind bars, instead of being in front of one.

Transportation during the holidays

Mainline and local services do operate throughout Christmas, but with a very limited service on national holidays (see below). There is a free “shopping bus” that runs between Termini and Via Del Corso during December, but you are better advised to walk than use the public transport. During this period, buses and metros are filled with at least double the capacity of intended passengers, complete with bulky purchases. Visit the Roman transit site for more information.

What’s closed when

Shops are open every day (including Sunday) during the holiday period, except for December 25 and January 1. (Note that Rome’s January sales do not start on the first weekend in January.) Most museums and attractions are closed December 25 and January 1, but are open the rest of the time. (Check online first.) Restaurants generally remain open throughout the holiday period.

Also note that in addition to Christmas and New Year’s, Italians celebrate Feast of the Immaculate Conception on December 8, and St. Stephen’s Day on December 26. However, most shops, restaurants, and attractions remain open on these days.

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Caravaggio's "Madonna di Loreto" on display. Photo by Gaspa.

By Samantha Collins in Rome—

There is something about Caravaggio that fascinates people. Even those who would normally prefer to cross a street of hot coals than spend time looking at paintings seem happy to make an exception for this rebel of Counter-Renaissance Art.

To celebrate Rome’s Caravaggio exhibition that has just opened at the Villa Borghese (and runs through January 24, 2010), it seemed timely to look at this bad boy of the paintbrush and take a tour around Rome to see some of his masterpieces for free!

So just who was Caravaggio?

Whilst most artists of the Middle Ages were more soft ruffles than tough scuffles, Caravaggio was not afraid of a fight, a drink, and the odd murder to boot. Commission happy, the taste of luxury did not bring out his lighter side. As well as pushing the Catholic church to the edge with his dark religious paintings, he eventually lost his temper once too often. After killing a young man who beat him in a tennis match in the Campo Dei Fiori, he fled Rome with a price on his head. He finally died in exile, never learning that he had been given a Papal Pardon.

Where can I see Caravaggio for free?

Sant’ Agostino Church
Via Sant’ Agostino

The Madonna di Loreto (painted in 1605, pictured above) is hung in the first chapel on the left. The church is close to Piazza Navona, and also includes a Raphael fresco. The church is currently under restoration, but don’t be fooled. Under the scaffolding, it is still open so you can see the paintings. For those who are pregnant (or wish to be), touch the statue of the “Madonna del Parto” near the door as you leave for luck.

San Luigi dei Francesi
Via Giustiniani

San Luigi dei Francesi. Photo: Gaspa

In the church of San Luigi dei Francesi you get three Caravaggio paintings for free with the Matthew trilogy, including  “The Calling of Saint Matthew”, “St. Matthew and the Angels”, and “The Matrydom of Saint Matthew”. This church is close to the centre, a short walk from the Pantheon and Piazza Navona, and next to the French institute with its wonderful bookshop.

Santa Maria Del Popolo
Piazza Del Popolo

This church is about a 20-minute walk from the historic centre, or you can take the Metro Linea A to Flaminio. Here you can find two paintings, the “Conversion of St. Paul” and “The Crucifixion of St. Peter”, so well worth the journey.

Please note that many churches are closed between 1 PM - 4 PM, but usually stay open in the evening until around 7 PM.

And if I want to pay?

Well if you are at the Santa Maria del Popolo, it is just a short walk up the hill to the Galleria Borghese, and its wonderful park. Here you can see three Caravaggio works, “Sick Bacchus”, “Boy with Bag of Fruit” and “Madonna dei Palafrenieri”. Entrance will cost you €8.50 but you also get to see the amazing Bernini sculpture of “Daphne and Apollo” amongst many other treasures.

At the moment, you can also access the Caravaggio and Bacon exhibition, on through January 24. Note that for the Galleria Borghese, you need to book in advance as only a limited number are allowed in at any one time (more details here).

Lastly, you can see the “Gypsy Fortune Teller” at the Capitoline Museums, entrance fee €6.50. Don’t forget that both of these museums are included in the Roma Pass, which is a 3-day pass that gives you free access to two museums, free travel on Rome’s public transport, and discounts to other museums and attractions. The pass costs €23. (read more about the Roma Pass).

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The Capitoline Museums, covered by the pass. Photo: Samantha Collins.

By Samantha Collins in Rome–

The Roma Pass is a three-day discount card that gives you free or discounted access to some of Rome’s top museums, as well as free use of the public transport system. Launched to encourage visitors into the museums, the scheme is proving to be a popular one.

But at a cost of €23, will it save you money during your stay or is it better to “pass” and spend your money elsewhere?

What does the Roma Pass include?

· Free admission to two participating museums of your choice, including some of the most popular in Rome, including the Colosseum, Villa Borghese, and the Capitoline Museums. In many cases, pass holders have priority and can skip the line.

· Free unlimited public transport (bus, metro, tram and local train).

· A Rome map, including public transport networks.

· A list of participating museums, and an events guide with discount vouchers for exhibitions, shows, and events around Rome.

· Free medical advice from a multilingual helpline.

Where can you buy it?

Deal or no deal?

You can purchase a Roma Pass at any of the tourist information kiosks (PITs) that you find around the city centre, including outside Termini Station and Castel St. Angelo, and at the participating museums.

The pass is valid for three days, and it expires at midnight on the third day after you have used it for the first time. You can also buy it online, although the service is not very reliable.

Is it good value?

Well, if we assume that you are something of a “culture vulture,” rather than a “hotel hermit,” it is pretty much certain that you will take a bus or two, use the metro at least once, and would like to visit at least one museum or monument. Considering that the Colosseum is the most visited attraction in Italy, it is also safe to assume that is high on your list.

So let’s add it up:

A three-day pass to use the public transport system will cost you €11. Standard admission to the Colosseum costs €9. You are still €3 short, but you have one more museum left and a whole host of discount tickets to use.

So with the time you saved not queuing at the Colosseum (pass holders use a special turnstile), you could move on to drool at the wonderful Bernini sculpture of Apollo and Daphne at the Villa Borghese (entrance €8.50), or admire Caravaggio at the Capitoline Museums (€6.50)… and still have saved enough for a cappucino and a cake.

Is it for you?

Of course, it’s possible to simply wander around Rome only seeing the outside of buildings and not spend a thing. Yet whilst the Roma Pass probably won’t save you an enormous amount of money, it may get you into places that you may have otherwise missed.

The pass also encourages you to explore a little beyond the centre, with places such as the Appia Antica Catacombs included in the scheme. With your route map and transport ticket, you should be able figure out how to get out and about and see a little more than you would otherwise.

However, if you are happy to spend your time wandering Rome’s narrow streets on foot, and the thought of spending an afternoon in a museum brings out a cold sweat, then the Roma Pass probably would not pass the value test.

For more information on the pass, check out the Roma Pass website.

About the author: Samantha Collins is a freelance travel writer and editor, who has lived in Rome for the past two years.  She is originally from Manchester in the UK.  Read all about her adventures by visiting her blog, Travel Tales from Italy.

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A view of Lake Albano at Castel Gandolfo. Photos by Claire Chaffey.

By Claire Chaffey in Rome—

As the age old saying goes, “when in Rome, do as the Romans do.” Many Romans (the Pope included) who have tired of eating glorious food, sipping on a hearty red, and throwing down a few espressos head for the hills. Literally.

More specifically, they get themselves to one or more of the tiny villages, known as the Castelli Romani, clustered together in the Roman Hills. Conveniently, they are all no more than a 40-minute train or bus ride away from Rome, and the journey costs no more than a few euros by train and only €1 by metro.

A visit to any of these unique little towns makes a fabulous day trip! Here are three of our favorites:

Sampling the local vino in Frascati.

Castel Gandolfo

This beautiful little town overlooks the turquoise and picture-perfect Lake Albano and lies around 30 km from Rome. While its claim to fame is being home to the Pope’s summer residence, its real charm lies in the gorgeous little piazza which marks the town center and the swathe of little eateries which adjoin the piazza or overlook the lake. And, in case you’re feeling energetic, there are kayaks and canoes for hire.

How to Get There: Trains to Castel Gandolfo run from Termini and leave about every hour. It will take about 40 minutes to get there and a round-trip ticket will cost €3.80.

Frascati

For the Romans, this is perhaps the most popular of the Castelli Romani. There are three reasons for this: vino, vino, and vino!

Essentially, this village exists for making wine, and it is surrounded by quaint little farmhouses and rolling vineyards. The old town center is home to numerous cellars which offer wine tasting and allow you to take in your own food. Before sampling the famous and delectable local white, you can while away a few hours by visiting the regal Villa Aldobrandini and the ornate Basilica of St. Peter the Apostle.

How to Get There: The cheapest and most convenient way to get to Frascati is by bus, which leaves every 20 minutes from bus stop 6 at Anagnina (the last stop on Metro Line A). Metro tickets run €1 and cover the entire journey. Alternatively, trains leave Termini every hour, and a round-trip journey will cost €3.80.

The streets of Ariccia.

Ariccia

This fantastic little village is full of delicious food. Ariccia is famous for porchetta, thick cut pork slow roasted in fennel and herbs. One needs no other reason to come here except to go in search of this ridiculously tasty regional specialty. The best place to try porchetta is in one of the town’s many fraschettas, which also serve up other regional specialties in noisy, rustic old taverns. Otherwise, grab a panino on the street, which is almost as good!

How to Get There: Buses to Ariccia leave about every 20 minutes from Anagnina bus station. The journey takes about 30 minutes and costs the price of a metro ticket (€1).

About the author: Claire is a freelance journalist currently eating and drinking her way through Rome following a stint as a reporter in West Africa. Claire’s work has appeared in the Sydney Morning Herald, TNT Magazine, Way2Go Magazine and the Ghanaian Times.

Popularity: 6% [?]

The Metropolitan Cinema. Photos by Claire Chaffey.

By Claire Chaffey in Rome—

Undeniably, Rome is a remarkable city with a thousand things to see and do. It’s not difficult to spend an entire day pounding the cobblestones taking in all that there is to experience. So when night falls, it’s often nice to just chill out and let yourself be entertained.

Here are some of the best (and cheapest) ways to do just that!

Cinema

Unless you’re lucky enough to speak the local lingua, chances are you’ll be looking for a movie house that shows films in English. While there are quite a few scattered around the city, these two are the most accessible:

Metropolitan Cinema
Via del Corso, 7 (Just off Piazza del Poppolo, Metro Flaminio)

The Metropolitan (pictured, above) is a friendly, old-school little cinema that has not entirely succumbed to the Italian penchant for dubbing absolutely everything that is not a product of Italy. It shows at least two English language films at any given time, and if you go on a weekday afternoon, or Wednesdays at anytime, you’ll only pay €5.50. Otherwise, tickets are €7.50.

Warner Village Metro Cinema
Piazza della Repubblica, 44 (Metro Repubblica)

Live music and drinks at the Scholar's Lounge.

You can’t miss this large, swanky cinema, which is the place to come if you want to see a blockbuster. However, it usually only shows one English language film at a time, so your options will be limited. Tickets are €7.50 (€5.50 for students).

Check out this useful website for programs and session times for both cinemas.

Tip: If you can speak Italian, take advantage of free films aired at “Casa del Cinema” at Villa Borghese. The films are mostly documentaries or old, obscure Italian films. For details, check out the website.

Live Music

There are plenty of pubs and bars in Rome which offer a huge variety of live music, but this is our favorite for both music and atmosphere:

Scholars Lounge Irish Pub
Via del Plebiscito, 101b (near Piazza Venezia)

The cosy and charming Scholars Lounge is host to live music almost every night from 10:30 PM. If it’s not a cover band doing the Chilli Peppers, Springsteen, or Oasis, it’s traditional Irish music, Reggae or karaoke (come on, you know you love it!). For the cost of whatever you want to drink, you can kick back with a congenial mix of locals and travelers and enjoy the vibe.

Last-minute theater tickets.

For a list of what’s on, check out the pub’s live music schedule.

Theater

Rome has an extremely vibrant dramatic scene with scores of theaters scattered all over town. It is generally not cheap to see a performance, but it is well worth the experience, especially when there are half-price tickets available at Last Minute Teatro, situated at Via Bari, 18 (Metro Policlinico). It sells unsold tickets for performances showing that night, and if you are not too fussy about what you see, there are huge savings to be made! Open Tuesday to Saturday: 2 PM-8 PM, and Sunday: 12 PM-4 PM.

About the author: Claire is a freelance journalist currently eating and drinking her way through Rome following a stint as a reporter in West Africa. Claire’s work has appeared in the Sydney Morning Herald, TNT Magazine, Way2Go Magazine and the Ghanaian Times.

Popularity: 6% [?]