Rome Art Walking Tour: See Caravaggio’s finest works for free

Friday, November 6th, 2009
Caravaggio on display for free at Sant’ Agostino. Photo by Gaspa.

Caravaggio's "Madonna di Loreto" on display. Photo by Gaspa.

By Samantha Collins in Rome—

There is something about Caravaggio that fascinates people. Even those who would normally prefer to cross a street of hot coals than spend time looking at paintings seem happy to make an exception for this rebel of Counter-Renaissance Art.

To celebrate Rome’s Caravaggio exhibition that has just opened at the Villa Borghese (and runs through January 24, 2010), it seemed timely to look at this bad boy of the paintbrush and take a tour around Rome to see some of his masterpieces for free!

So just who was Caravaggio?

Whilst most artists of the Middle Ages were more soft ruffles than tough scuffles, Caravaggio was not afraid of a fight, a drink, and the odd murder to boot. Commission happy, the taste of luxury did not bring out his lighter side. As well as pushing the Catholic church to the edge with his dark religious paintings, he eventually lost his temper once too often. After killing a young man who beat him in a tennis match in the Campo Dei Fiori, he fled Rome with a price on his head. He finally died in exile, never learning that he had been given a Papal Pardon.

Where can I see Caravaggio for free?

Sant’ Agostino Church
Via Sant’ Agostino

The Madonna di Loreto (painted in 1605, pictured above) is hung in the first chapel on the left. The church is close to Piazza Navona, and also includes a Raphael fresco. The church is currently under restoration, but don’t be fooled. Under the scaffolding, it is still open so you can see the paintings. For those who are pregnant (or wish to be), touch the statue of the “Madonna del Parto” near the door as you leave for luck.

San Luigi dei Francesi
Via Giustiniani

Caravaggio in San Luigi dei Francesi. Photo: Gaspa

San Luigi dei Francesi. Photo: Gaspa

In the church of San Luigi dei Francesi you get three Caravaggio paintings for free with the Matthew trilogy, including  “The Calling of Saint Matthew”, “St. Matthew and the Angels”, and “The Matrydom of Saint Matthew”. This church is close to the centre, a short walk from the Pantheon and Piazza Navona, and next to the French institute with its wonderful bookshop.

Santa Maria Del Popolo
Piazza Del Popolo

This church is about a 20-minute walk from the historic centre, or you can take the Metro Linea A to Flaminio. Here you can find two paintings, the “Conversion of St. Paul” and “The Crucifixion of St. Peter”, so well worth the journey.

Please note that many churches are closed between 1 PM - 4 PM, but usually stay open in the evening until around 7 PM.

And if I want to pay?

Well if you are at the Santa Maria del Popolo, it is just a short walk up the hill to the Galleria Borghese, and its wonderful park. Here you can see three Caravaggio works, “Sick Bacchus”, “Boy with Bag of Fruit” and “Madonna dei Palafrenieri”. Entrance will cost you €8.50 but you also get to see the amazing Bernini sculpture of “Daphne and Apollo” amongst many other treasures.

At the moment, you can also access the Caravaggio and Bacon exhibition, on through January 24. Note that for the Galleria Borghese, you need to book in advance as only a limited number are allowed in at any one time (more details here).

Lastly, you can see the “Gypsy Fortune Teller” at the Capitoline Museums, entrance fee €6.50. Don’t forget that both of these museums are included in the Roma Pass, which is a 3-day pass that gives you free access to two museums, free travel on Rome’s public transport, and discounts to other museums and attractions. The pass costs €23. (read more about the Roma Pass).

Popularity: 9% [?]

Rome: The “Roma Pass” – Deal or no deal?

Friday, October 23rd, 2009
The Roma Pass includes admission to the Capitoline Museums. Photo by Samantha Collins.

The Capitoline Museums, covered by the pass. Photo: Samantha Collins.

By Samantha Collins in Rome–

The Roma Pass is a three-day discount card that gives you free or discounted access to some of Rome’s top museums, as well as free use of the public transport system. Launched to encourage visitors into the museums, the scheme is proving to be a popular one.

But at a cost of €23, will it save you money during your stay or is it better to “pass” and spend your money elsewhere?

What does the Roma Pass include?

· Free admission to two participating museums of your choice, including some of the most popular in Rome, including the Colosseum, Villa Borghese, and the Capitoline Museums. In many cases, pass holders have priority and can skip the line.

· Free unlimited public transport (bus, metro, tram and local train).

· A Rome map, including public transport networks.

· A list of participating museums, and an events guide with discount vouchers for exhibitions, shows, and events around Rome.

· Free medical advice from a multilingual helpline.

Where can you buy it?

Deal or no deal?

Deal or no deal?

You can purchase a Roma Pass at any of the tourist information kiosks (PITs) that you find around the city centre, including outside Termini Station and Castel St. Angelo, and at the participating museums.

The pass is valid for three days, and it expires at midnight on the third day after you have used it for the first time. You can also buy it online, although the service is not very reliable.

Is it good value?

Well, if we assume that you are something of a “culture vulture,” rather than a “hotel hermit,” it is pretty much certain that you will take a bus or two, use the metro at least once, and would like to visit at least one museum or monument. Considering that the Colosseum is the most visited attraction in Italy, it is also safe to assume that is high on your list.

So let’s add it up:

A three-day pass to use the public transport system will cost you €11. Standard admission to the Colosseum costs €9. You are still €3 short, but you have one more museum left and a whole host of discount tickets to use.

So with the time you saved not queuing at the Colosseum (pass holders use a special turnstile), you could move on to drool at the wonderful Bernini sculpture of Apollo and Daphne at the Villa Borghese (entrance €8.50), or admire Caravaggio at the Capitoline Museums (€6.50)… and still have saved enough for a cappucino and a cake.

Is it for you?

Of course, it’s possible to simply wander around Rome only seeing the outside of buildings and not spend a thing. Yet whilst the Roma Pass probably won’t save you an enormous amount of money, it may get you into places that you may have otherwise missed.

The pass also encourages you to explore a little beyond the centre, with places such as the Appia Antica Catacombs included in the scheme. With your route map and transport ticket, you should be able figure out how to get out and about and see a little more than you would otherwise.

However, if you are happy to spend your time wandering Rome’s narrow streets on foot, and the thought of spending an afternoon in a museum brings out a cold sweat, then the Roma Pass probably would not pass the value test.

For more information on the pass, check out the Roma Pass website.

About the author: Samantha Collins is a freelance travel writer and editor, who has lived in Rome for the past two years.  She is originally from Manchester in the UK.  Read all about her adventures by visiting her blog, Travel Tales from Italy.

Popularity: 10% [?]

Rome Day Trips: Hillside villages of the Castelli Romani

Friday, October 9th, 2009
A view of Lake Albano at Castel Gandolfo. Photos by Claire Chaffey.

A view of Lake Albano at Castel Gandolfo. Photos by Claire Chaffey.

By Claire Chaffey in Rome—

As the age old saying goes, “when in Rome, do as the Romans do.” Many Romans (the Pope included) who have tired of eating glorious food, sipping on a hearty red, and throwing down a few espressos head for the hills. Literally.

More specifically, they get themselves to one or more of the tiny villages, known as the Castelli Romani, clustered together in the Roman Hills. Conveniently, they are all no more than a 40-minute train or bus ride away from Rome, and the journey costs no more than a few euros by train and only €1 by metro.

A visit to any of these unique little towns makes a fabulous day trip! Here are three of our favorites:

Sampling the local vino in Frascati.

Sampling the local vino in Frascati.

Castel Gandolfo

This beautiful little town overlooks the turquoise and picture-perfect Lake Albano and lies around 30 km from Rome. While its claim to fame is being home to the Pope’s summer residence, its real charm lies in the gorgeous little piazza which marks the town center and the swathe of little eateries which adjoin the piazza or overlook the lake. And, in case you’re feeling energetic, there are kayaks and canoes for hire.

How to Get There: Trains to Castel Gandolfo run from Termini and leave about every hour. It will take about 40 minutes to get there and a round-trip ticket will cost €3.80.

Frascati

For the Romans, this is perhaps the most popular of the Castelli Romani. There are three reasons for this: vino, vino, and vino!

Essentially, this village exists for making wine, and it is surrounded by quaint little farmhouses and rolling vineyards. The old town center is home to numerous cellars which offer wine tasting and allow you to take in your own food. Before sampling the famous and delectable local white, you can while away a few hours by visiting the regal Villa Aldobrandini and the ornate Basilica of St. Peter the Apostle.

How to Get There: The cheapest and most convenient way to get to Frascati is by bus, which leaves every 20 minutes from bus stop 6 at Anagnina (the last stop on Metro Line A). Metro tickets run €1 and cover the entire journey. Alternatively, trains leave Termini every hour, and a round-trip journey will cost €3.80.

The streets of Ariccia.

The streets of Ariccia.

Ariccia

This fantastic little village is full of delicious food. Ariccia is famous for porchetta, thick cut pork slow roasted in fennel and herbs. One needs no other reason to come here except to go in search of this ridiculously tasty regional specialty. The best place to try porchetta is in one of the town’s many fraschettas, which also serve up other regional specialties in noisy, rustic old taverns. Otherwise, grab a panino on the street, which is almost as good!

How to Get There: Buses to Ariccia leave about every 20 minutes from Anagnina bus station. The journey takes about 30 minutes and costs the price of a metro ticket (€1).

About the author: Claire is a freelance journalist currently eating and drinking her way through Rome following a stint as a reporter in West Africa. Claire’s work has appeared in the Sydney Morning Herald, TNT Magazine, Way2Go Magazine and the Ghanaian Times.

Popularity: 6% [?]

Rome Entertainment: Movies, music, and theater on a budget

Friday, October 2nd, 2009
The Teatro Metropolitan. Photos by Claire Chaffey.

The Metropolitan Cinema. Photos by Claire Chaffey.

By Claire Chaffey in Rome—

Undeniably, Rome is a remarkable city with a thousand things to see and do. It’s not difficult to spend an entire day pounding the cobblestones taking in all that there is to experience. So when night falls, it’s often nice to just chill out and let yourself be entertained.

Here are some of the best (and cheapest) ways to do just that!

Cinema

Unless you’re lucky enough to speak the local lingua, chances are you’ll be looking for a movie house that shows films in English. While there are quite a few scattered around the city, these two are the most accessible:

Metropolitan Cinema
Via del Corso, 7 (Just off Piazza del Poppolo, Metro Flaminio)

The Metropolitan (pictured, above) is a friendly, old-school little cinema that has not entirely succumbed to the Italian penchant for dubbing absolutely everything that is not a product of Italy. It shows at least two English language films at any given time, and if you go on a weekday afternoon, or Wednesdays at anytime, you’ll only pay €5.50. Otherwise, tickets are €7.50.

Warner Village Metro Cinema
Piazza della Repubblica, 44 (Metro Repubblica)

Live music and drinks at the Scholar's Lounge.

Live music and drinks at the Scholar's Lounge.

You can’t miss this large, swanky cinema, which is the place to come if you want to see a blockbuster. However, it usually only shows one English language film at a time, so your options will be limited. Tickets are €7.50 (€5.50 for students).

Check out this useful website for programs and session times for both cinemas.

Tip: If you can speak Italian, take advantage of free films aired at “Casa del Cinema” at Villa Borghese. The films are mostly documentaries or old, obscure Italian films. For details, check out the website.

Live Music

There are plenty of pubs and bars in Rome which offer a huge variety of live music, but this is our favorite for both music and atmosphere:

Scholars Lounge Irish Pub
Via del Plebiscito, 101b (near Piazza Venezia)

The cosy and charming Scholars Lounge is host to live music almost every night from 10:30 PM. If it’s not a cover band doing the Chilli Peppers, Springsteen, or Oasis, it’s traditional Irish music, Reggae or karaoke (come on, you know you love it!). For the cost of whatever you want to drink, you can kick back with a congenial mix of locals and travelers and enjoy the vibe.

Last-minute theater tickets.

Last-minute theater tickets.

For a list of what’s on, check out the pub’s live music schedule.

Theater

Rome has an extremely vibrant dramatic scene with scores of theaters scattered all over town. It is generally not cheap to see a performance, but it is well worth the experience, especially when there are half-price tickets available at Last Minute Teatro, situated at Via Bari, 18 (Metro Policlinico). It sells unsold tickets for performances showing that night, and if you are not too fussy about what you see, there are huge savings to be made! Open Tuesday to Saturday: 2 PM-8 PM, and Sunday: 12 PM-4 PM.

About the author: Claire is a freelance journalist currently eating and drinking her way through Rome following a stint as a reporter in West Africa. Claire’s work has appeared in the Sydney Morning Herald, TNT Magazine, Way2Go Magazine and the Ghanaian Times.

Popularity: 7% [?]

Rome day trip: Ostia Antica, Italy’s best-kept secret

Friday, September 25th, 2009
Ancient ruins in Ostia Antica. Photo by Claire Chaffey.

Ancient ruins in Ostia Antica. Photos by Claire Chaffey.

By Claire Chaffey in Rome—

Ostia Antica, one of Italy’s most interesting and best-preserved archaeological sites, is also one of the country’s best-kept secrets. Well, that’s certainly the impression one gets when arriving there, due to the distinctly unusual tranquility of the place, and the conspicuous lack of tour groups, roving guides, and buses.

Considering that Ostia Antica is only a 30-minute train ride from the center of Rome, it is truly worth a visit!

History

Highlights of the former port’s long and colorful history include its establishment by a legendary Roman King sometime around the 7th century B.C (though no-one really knows for sure), frequent raids by arson-loving, river-hopping pirates, being overtaken by numerous Roman emperors who tarted the place up in accordance with current architectural trends, being the place where Santa Monica–the patron saint of married women–died in a local pub, slowly evolving into a country retreat for idle Roman aristocrats, and eventually falling into abandonment and decay somewhere around the 9th century A.D. (Whew!)

Mosaics in the Roman baths.

Mosaics in the Roman baths.

Ostia Antica today

Today, Ostia Antica is a sprawling stretch of painstakingly restored ruins which, despite their age, successfully retain the essence of the city’s former complexity and grandeur.

The best thing about Ostia Antica is the fact that, apart from practically having the place to yourself, you can wander around the ruins and easily imagine what it was like to have lived in a thriving and cosmopolitan city like Ostia. You can imagine buying your fruit and vegetables at one of the many shop fronts which line the main thoroughfare. Or, marvel at the almost flawlessly preserved mosaics which formed the hot and steamy Roman baths. Why not have a go at worshiping the sun god in one of the spectacular pagan temples? (Or you could imagine what it was like trying to get a little privacy with twenty other people with you in one of the many communal latrines….)

The Castle of Julius II

Your tour guide awaits...

Your tour guide awaits...

Once you have spent a couple of hours walking amongst and climbing over the ruins, it is worth going to have a peek at Castle of Julius II, located just across the road. The castle is situated in the gorgeous little Piazza della Rocca, in which Ostia’s inhabitants go about their daily business and several plump and friendly local cats will happily escort you around.

Getting there and getting in

Take the metro to “Piramide Station” on Line B. From there, get on the city urban line towards “Lido di Ostia.” Get off at “Ostia Antica,” cross the footbridge and follow the signs. Trains leave every half hour and the fare is covered by a €1 metro ticket.

Entry fee is €6.50 for adults over 25. Those between 18 – 25 get in for half price. If you’re under 18 or over 65, you don’t have to pay at all! Open between 8:30 AM – 6:00 PM. Closed Mondays.

Cheapo tip: The eateries in Ostia Antica aren’t fabulous, unless you are willing to pay a little more than you probably want to. So, if possible, pack your lunch!

About the author: Claire is a freelance journalist currently eating and drinking her way through Rome following a stint as a reporter in West Africa. Claire’s work has appeared in the Sydney Morning Herald, TNT Magazine, Way2Go Magazine and the Ghanaian Times.

Popularity: 14% [?]

Rome: The 2 best espressos in Rome, steps from the Pantheon

Thursday, September 17th, 2009
The Sant Eustachio caffe. Photos by Claire Chaffey.

Il Caffé Sant Eustachio. Photos by Claire Chaffey.

By Claire Chaffey in Rome—

When it comes to coffee, the Italians pretty much have it down pat. Like fashion, food and football, coffee is an art, a matter of national pride, and a daily ritual which is taken very, very seriously.

It is actually quite hard to find a bad coffee in Rome. What is more difficult, however, is determining which is the city’s best. Ask the locals and you’ll discover that there seems to be two distinct leaders in the coffee stakes, both located remarkably close to the Pantheon in central Rome, and both just as frequently declared the home of Rome’s best espresso.

So, before you leave the Eternal City, head for the Pantheon, prepare for the rush, and lean on the bar in at least one of these places. Or “make it a double,” and lean on both bars!

Sant Eustachio – Il Caffé

Grancaffe at Sant Eustachio.

Grancaffe at Sant Eustachio.

Piazza S. Eustachio, 81

It is no exaggeration to say that Il Caffé is an institution. Having been around since the days of Mussolini, this tiny café has had a loyal following for over 71 years. It has earned a virtually unmatched reputation for having the best coffee in Rome and has become a mecca for caffeine fiends from around the world, as well as an essential cultural experience even for those not attuned to the pleasures of downing espresso.

One of the specialties is the Grancaffé: a delectably powerful double espresso with a lightly whipped, sugary froth which stays in the bottom of your cup and provides a perfectly sweet ending to the espresso experience. The other is the Grancappuccino, which is equally as strong but delivers the kick in a long, hot and creamy brew. Seriously good!

Be warned though: if you choose to have your coffee at the tables in the delightful little piazza, you’ll pay almost twice the price. So, save a few euros and do what the locals do: stand, lean, and shoot it down!

Getting there: Piazza S. Eustachio is on the south-western side of the Pantheon. From behind the Pantheon, follow Via della Pallombella west until you wander into the piazza. For more information, visit http://www.santeustachioilcaffe.it/.

Tazza D’Oro – La Casa del Caffé

La Casa del Caffé - Tazza D’Oro.

La Casa del Caffé - Tazza D’Oro.

Via Degli Orfani, 84

This place, literally named “Cup of Gold”, unabashedly declares itself to have the best coffee in town, and only those who frequent Sant Eustachio are likely to disagree.

Standing on a charming little corner in front of the Pantheon, the Tazza D’Oro has been around since 1946 and is still going strong. In addition to serving a potent, smooth shot of caffeine goodness, which is guaranteed to keep you primed for a full day of sight-seeing, Tazza D’Oro offers good deals for lunch and dinner, and serves up decent pizzas and salads for a remarkably reasonable price.

Getting there: Tazza D’Oro is on the north-eastern side of the Pantheon. From Piazza Dell Rotonda, which is directly in front of the Pantheon, head east along Via Dei Pastini. You can’t miss it.
For more information: www.tazzadorocoffeeshop.com.

Popularity: 7% [?]

Rome Cheap Eats: Dine like a local at these affordable restaurants

Friday, September 11th, 2009
Dining with the locals at Al Peperoncino. Photos by Claire Chaffey.

Dining with the locals at Al Peperoncino. Photos by Claire Chaffey.

By Claire Chaffey in Rome—

When in Rome, want to eat like an Italian with the Italians? Want to escape overpriced tourist menus? Want to experience authentic Italian cuisine at the right price? Well, why not take the metro out of the historic centre and dine in the spots that only the locals know about!

Here are three absolute gems that are less than 10 minutes from Termini Station. All of these spots offer authenticity at the right price, with a three-course meal, wine and coffee coming in at around 20 €.

Pizzeria Dal Bersagliere
Via Gino Capponi 16

Great dining along the Via Appia Nuova.

Great dining on Via Appia Nuova.

The fabulous little Pizzeria Dal Bersagliere in Furio Camillo is apparently, if you look at the photo above the cash register, good enough for James Bond. Sean Connery used to come here, it seems, and we can understand why! The restaurant offers an extensive menu including pasta, meats and salads, but the real reason to come here is the pizza!

They offer a huge range of ridiculously light and flavoursome pizzas starting from 5 €. The supplis, crumbed risotto balls filled with deliciously melted and gooey cheese, are not to be missed either. The house wine is dangerously palatable and the outdoor seating arrangement makes for a very noisy and friendly night out. The place is heaving by 10 PM.

Getting there: Take metro line A to Furio Camillo. Take the Via C. Baronio exit and walk along Via Appia Nuova (pictured, right) for about 200 m. Turn left into Via Gino Capponi and follow the delicious aroma emanating from behind the small florist stand. Open daily 7pm – midnight. (More info on the restaurant’s website.)

Antico Casale
Ponte Lungo

Oh Rome, this is how you should be! This wonderful little place in Ponte Lungo is about as authentic as you can get. Complete with red and white checked table cloths and an intimate, rustic atmosphere, this super find is an extremely popular choice amongst locals.

Highlights include the delectable pastas, starting at 7 €, and exquisite seafood, all served by friendly and helpful staff. Only the dessert outdoes the pasta at this place, with the Tartufo Bianco absolutely to die for!

Getting there: Take metro line A to Ponte Lungo and take the Piazza Ponte Lungo exit. Walk 150 metres along Via Appia Nuova and take the second right over the bridge into Piazza Camillo Finocchiaro Aprile. The restaurant is tucked behind a little florist in Appia Circonvallazione. Closed Mondays.

Al Peperoncino
Via Ostiense 369/375

Pasta Al Peperoncino.

Pasta Al Peperoncino.

Ask any local in San Paolo where you can find a great meal and they will almost certainly direct you to the huge, and hugely popular, Pizzeria and Bisteccheria Al Peperoncino (pictured at top and right). This restaurant is packed most nights, and you probably won’t find another tourist in sight!

With pizzas from 3 €, steak cooked to perfection and glorious seafood pasta, it is little wonder that this is THE place to eat for San Paolo’s locals. The creamy espresso and complimentary strawberry liqueur don’t do any harm either. Open dinner and lunch.

Getting here: Take metro line B to San Paolo. Take the Via Ostiense exit. Turn left onto Via Ostiense and walk about 200m. You can’t miss it. (For more info, visit the restaurant’s website.)

About the author: Claire is a freelance journalist currently eating and drinking her way through Rome following a stint as a reporter in West Africa. Before opting to pursue the glamorous life of an international woman of mystery, Claire was a lawyer whose incurable wanderlust soon led her to far more exotic and interesting places. Claire’s work has appeared in the Sydney Morning Herald, TNT Magazine, Way2Go Magazine and the Ghanaian Times.

Popularity: 9% [?]

Rome: Cool off at the city’s new outdoor pool… by the Colosseum

Thursday, August 20th, 2009
The Colosseum sits behind the resort-style pool in Rome's center. Photo by All'Ombra del Colosseo

Poolside, Colosseum-style. Photo by All'Ombra del Colosseo

By Annie B. Shapero in Rome—

Summer can be stifling in Rome and come August, most of the locals head for the hills. This year, with more Romans staying put than in the past—and hordes of visitors filling the streets—Rome seems more crowded and even hotter than ever.

But for those visiting the city in the heat of the summer (or those Romans taking a “stay-cation”), a new city-run pool and entertainment park has made it easy to find a splash of relief from the heat.

Take a dip, Colosseum-style.

The swimming pool, run by the Castellum Sport and Culture Association, is located in the heart of the historic center, just behind the Colosseum, in the Parco del Celio (a popular park frequently used as a concert venue). The pool is part of a larger city-run “resort” called All’Ombra del Colosseo, meaning literally “in the shadow of the Colosseum.” It includes the pool, food and drink stands, live music performances, a disco (this is Italy after all), and even a poker table!

All’Ombra del Colosseo is open for frolicking from June 26 through September 5, when the worst of the summer heat should have passed.

If you go…

Soaking away with the iconic monument in full view does come at a price: The pool costs €14 for an all-day pass (starting at 9 AM), and €10 for a half-day runs (starting at 2 PM). Reduced admission is available for children and students, from €7 to €9.

Cheapo note: Although the price seems steep, remember that the usual price for a beach club pass anywhere in Italy is about €10.

Getting there

Entrance on Via di San Gregorio (Parco del Celio).

For more information, call 06 70 03 17 01 or visit their web site (in Italian only).

About the author: Annie Shapero is EuroCheapo’s Italy correspondent. She writes for WHERE Magazine Rome.

Popularity: 7% [?]

Rome Tip: Find the best (free!) people watching in town

Thursday, August 6th, 2009
Head to the Spanish Steps for some good, free!, people watching. Photo by Sav D'Souza

Head to the Spanish Steps for some good, free!, people watching. Photo by Sav D'Souza

By Sav D’Souza in Rome—Whether it’s dining al fresco, taking in the ancient sights, or paying a visit to one of the many piazzas, Rome offers lots of perfect places to indulge in the pleasure of people watching. The best part? Taking in a passerby or two is free and open to everyone. Just keep those shades on, unless you want to get caught!

Here are four of my favorite spots for people watching in Rome.


The Spanish Steps

Taking its name because of the Spanish ambassador who once lived here, the steps leading up from Piazza di Spagna to the Trinita dei Monti church are ideal for taking a rest after a day’s shopping in the nearby Via del Corso, and for watching the world—and all those fabulous tourists and Romans—go by.

Piazza Trilussa

Just over the Ponte Sisto bridge in Trastevere is Piazza Trilussa. This is a lively piazza full of young Romans who congregate till the early hours. On any given evening you could witness anything from an impromptu guitar concert, locals crooning old Calabrian tunes from a bygone era, or see some breakout flamenco dancing. Keep an eye out for the regular, and very amusing exploits, of Indian magician “Guarda”. Cheapo tip: There’s a small ice cream parlor just off Piazza v.Pallotti where you can grab a few cold bottles of beer for just €1.50 before heading for the piazza.

Campo de’Fiori

With a host of fun restaurants and wines bars circling the piazza, this is another ideal spot for watching Romans in their natural environment. Come late into the evening and the place has a more lively frenetic energy to it which can border on the chaotic. On occasion, it’s not for the fainthearted. Cheapo tip: Head for La Vineria (Campo de’ Fiori, 15) for a perfect ringside seat and great, inexpensive wine by the glass.

Isola Tiberina

At sundown, the Tiber Island is a fantastic place for an easy stroll and a good bout of people watching. It’s a wonderfully relaxed and laid back environment. There’s an outdoor cinema,  and loads of vendors selling all manner of delicious foods.  Choose from all manner of bars, grab a drink, and then pop a squat on a cozy sofa—or in the case of one bar—a bed! It’s accessible from Ponte Fabricio. Cheapo tip: The cocktails around here can be on the expensive side. Buy a couple of bottles at a local shop beforehand.

Popularity: 6% [?]

Rome Tip: Look the part without breaking the bank

Thursday, July 23rd, 2009
Steel heels for Roman ladies; Photo by alibaster

Steel heels for Roman ladies; Photo by alibaster

By Sav D’Souza in Rome—In Rome adherence to the bella figura (beautiful figure) is considered important. And, hey, for some of us - when in Rome - it’s more fun to do as the Romans do. Here are my top suggestions for escaping a visit from the style polizia.

For the donna

Ride high!

Whether it’s hopping on a motorini or taking on those ancient, cobbled streets, strong and dominant high heels are de rigueur for Roman ladies. Get the look on-the-cheapo: Head for the Piazza dell’Emporio in the Testaccio area. Just a short walk from the Piramide Metro and outside the vegetable market you’ll find stalls packed with great, sexy shoes at bargain prices. Ciao down!

And another thing…

Mini skirts and short shorts for the ladies are deemed declassé and, worse yet, touristy.

One man's shoes; photo by Sav D'Souza

One man's shoes; photo by Sav D'Souza

For the uomo

Walk in his shoes.

Not wearing a decent pair of shoes here is considered in extremely bad taste. Also, with such an elaborate array of shoe stores all over the city, and for every budget, there is simply no excuse to be soul-less. Get the look on the cheapo: For good deals and decent prices, check out Mas Allo Statuto (11, Via della Statuto). It’s between Termini station and Piazza Vittorio and has four floors full of choice stuff.

Dress the part.

You will notice that everyone from the street vendor to the taxi driver dresses “up” in Rome. It’s appreciated if you slip on a smart shirt, trousers and shoes. Get the look on the cheapo: A cool shop for guys is the Ivy Oxford on Via due Macelli (near the Spanish Steps). Here you can snag stylish new togs without breaking the bank.

And another thing…

Skinny jeans are pretty much the norm among the young dudes in Rome. Get the look on the cheapo: The easy answer here is H&M. Stores are located at Via Cristoforo Colombo 714, (Rome 00144), on Via Collatina, (Roma Lunghezza 00010) and at 201, Via Alberto Lionello (Roma Bufalotta). Also worth a look for good prices: Benetton. There’s a store on Via Nazionale.

For all man (and woman) kind

Some schmancy knock-off shades; Photo by Sav D'Souza

Some schmancy knockoff shades; Photo by Sav D'Souza

Proper shading

You’ve gotta have shades in Rome. No matter if it’s overcast or you find yourself indoors unable to see a thing, it’s all about the look. Designer sunglasses and their doppelganger knockoffs are essential for blending in here.  Get the look on the cheapo: Take a stroll along Via Nazionale and you are bound to spy street vendors selling designer shades. Remember these Chanel and Dolce versions lack authenticity, so haggle away until you get a price that’s right.

Good branding

Big name labels and brands are big stuff in Rome. Some of the most frequently encountered are the ubiquitous Lacoste polo shirts, Converse and Adidas trainers, and—that’s right—those flashy name brand sunglasses. These are all considered wardrobe staples. Get the look on the cheapo: The market on Via Sannio (near the San Giovanni Metro station) is a great place to pick up labels at a fraction of their normal cost. Remember, those prepared to haggle will get further reductions.

Snow suit

Even if it seems like a mild day - perhaps even a touch on the warm side - Romans don a coat, scarf and sometimes a chic, woolly hat. Get the look on the cheapo: The area around Castel Sant’Angelo sells scarves and hats at good prices.

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