A Deutsche Bahn train in Berlin's main station. Photo by hidden europe.

By Nicky Gardner and Susanne Kries—

Okay, we’ve said it before, but we’ll gladly say it again. Have Cheapos realised just how much rail fares in Europe can vary according to where you purchase your tickets?

We took a day out from our regular work with hidden europe magazine last week and conjured up a tempting palette of trips criss-crossing the continent. And then we compared the ticket prices on a national rail website (that of the Deutsche Bahn) with the prices offered for those journeys by rail ticketing agents based in Britain and North America. We took care to ensure that the tickets we purchased were in every case for exactly the same trains.

So a straight comparison, comparing like-with-like. Same class of travel, same comfy seat, same scenery slipping by outside the window – for all five routes in our basket of European rail trips.

The five routes we tested

1. Berlin to London single (by day, depart after 9:00 AM, any route) on September 3: one adult, 2nd class.
2. Amsterdam to Salzburg single (by day, no more than one change of train) on July 14: one adult, 1st class.
3. London to Cologne via Brussels single (depart at 8:00 AM or later) on September 10: one adult, 2nd class.
4. Berlin to Zagreb single via Hamburg (2 night stop) and Munich (2 night stop) on August 20: one adult, any class.
5. Nuremberg to Dresden same day return (direct trains only) on June 20 for a family of five, 2nd class.

For each of these five journeys, we thought that the German Railways (viz. Deutsche Bahn) website at www.bahn.de would offer some reasonable fare advice, and so it did. Indeed, all five journeys could be booked online through their website.

Then we turned to agents selling rail tickets in North America and Britain to get quotes for precisely the same journeys. This was done first by online research, often followed up by telephone calls to check precise details.

The results

And guess what? The leading agencies specializing in European rail tickets always charged at least twice as much as would the Deutsche Bahn for exactly the same journey.

The key point here is that in most of Europe, rail operators have a whole raft of special promotional fares that massively undercut the regular tariffs (often with discount of more than 80% on the standard fare). But agents rarely offer those discounted fares, preferring to safeguard their hefty commission fees by selling only the full fare.

Comparing the fares

Now take a look at how those fares compared. Listed below are the Deutsche Bahn (DB) fares that were available for purchase around midday of Friday, June 12, 2009 followed by the cheapest fare quoted the same day by a leading North American or British agent (all sterling and dollar fares have been converted to euros just to make things clearer).

1. Berlin to London (2nd class) DB: €49 / Agent Fare: €209
2. Amsterdam to Salzburg (1st class) DB: €79 / Agent Fare: €255
3. London to Cologne (2nd class) DB: €49 / Agent Fare: €106
4. Berlin to Zagreb with stops in Hamburg and Munich (2nd class) DB: €29 / Agent Fare: €322
5. Nuremberg to Dresden day return for family of 5 (2nd class) DB: €37 / Agent Fare: €705

Helpful advice?

We found one leading British agent who was extremely helpful on the phone, going to some lengths to suggest that for certain routes it might be wiser to get the tickets from a German source (but declining to give the specific name of the company or website).

A well-known North American agent emphasized that their dollar fares on offer would undercut anything we might purchase in Europe – a claim which is patently undermined by the results of our survey. The North American agent suggested that a rail pass might be a better bet for some of our journeys, and hinted that we would encounter a range of problems if we attempted to purchase directly from the Deutsche Bahn website.

Booking tickets in advance

The reality is that booking train tickets on www.bahn.de is pretty easy, even without a knowledge of German. The site has a decent English language interface, though in some instances you will find additional functionality on the German language website.

Also, it really helps to have a good knowledge of European patterns of service and railway geography. A good place to start is by studying the latest edition of the Thomas Cook European Rail Timetable and the same company’s Rail Map of Europe.

Booking well in advance is often the key to finding cheap fares, but our research found that plenty of discounted promotional fares are still available for travel this summer. And we did not cast around trying to dig up the cheapest possible travel dates, having fixed our palette of routes and travel dates before embarking on our research. If you would like the see the full results of our survey, just click here.

And, oh yes, just in case you were wondering, we were paid not a cent by the Deutsche Bahn to publish this!

About the authors: Susanne Kries and Nicky Gardner are regular contributors to EuroCheapo and together edit hidden europe magazine. They live in Berlin.

Popularity: 40% [?]

Fired up! Ready to go! Photo courtesy of an agent

Yes, we did!

On Tuesday, January 20th, 2009, Barack Obama will be sworn is as the 44th U.S. President and the world will be watching!

We’ve put together a list of places hosting inaugural day events in Europe.

As we said on Friday, the inauguration should be available in high-def at many locations, so if a bar or cafe has a television and gets satellite cable, you should be able to check in on the Washington, D.C. action.

As usual, let us know if you still need to find a place to watch the event.

Signed, sealed, delivered - again!

In Paris: The American Church in Paris hosts a prayer service at 7:30 PM followed by a viewing of the inauguration (one hour behind the live events) and a wine and cheese reception. Stop by and you might just see our Ed-in-Chief Tom Meyers! More info is here. You can also email Arlene Gross, the coordinator of the event, at arlbru2004@yahoo.com

For more ideas on where to hang your hat on inauguration day, check out this great forum on the Fodor’s Paris site. Other ideas include the Havane Cafe, at 70 Bis, Boulevard Auguste Blanqui (near Place d’Italie).

UPDATED: There’s an event at Carr’s Irish Restaurant and Bar (1 Rue du Mont Thabor). It begins at 4:30. The venue promises live coverage from CNN, via two large screen television sets. For further information, visit their web site.

In addition, a group of Democrats Abroad folks will gather to watch the inauguration at The Highlander pub (8 rue Nevers, across from the Pont Neuf).

Finally, if you really want to get your Obama-yes-we-can-can groove on, start out with the group of revelers organizing an event at Le Queenie (5, rue de Berri) for drinks, conversation, and to watch the inauguration. Then, head over to Queen nightclub (102, Avenue Champs Elysees). For info and to RSVP, email obama.obamaparisinauguration.p@gmail.com  

Note: According to the Paris Expat Meetup group, the American Library also has inauguration events planned. More info here.

In Berlin: Our friends over at BootsnAll first broke the news that Berlin would be partying down on inauguration eve. As they so aptly reminded us, it was Mr. Obama himself who said, “People of Berlin, people of the world, this is our moment. This is our time.” Rock on! Head to Goya Nightclub for an evening of celebration or head to the Amerika Haus, where they’ve been celebrating Black History month for weeks already. Check out what they have planned here.

In Salzburg: An event is planned at the Hotel Stein (Giselakai 3-5). All are welcome, including children, but RSVPs are a must. Go here for more info. You can also contact Contact Mary Ann Balko-Koch at 0664 59 23 408.

In Vienna: There’s a big event planned at the Badeschiff (Donau canal between Schwedenplatz and the Urania in Vienna’s first district). The official invite can be downloaded here.  Live jazz music wil be provided. There’s a €5 optional donation. The reservation process officially closed on January 16th, but we recommend still trying to get in. Email: events@democratsabroad.at for more info.

In Brussels: There’s an event at the Hilton Brussels (38, Boulevard De Waterloo). Reservations are required. Email chair-be@democratsabroad.orgby today for info and to reserve your spot.

In London: A host of events are planned in Her Majesty’s great city. For a list of a bunch of them, visit Time Out London’s web site. Might we recommend the “Bye George” comedy celebration at the Southbank Centre on the evening before Obama takes office? By George, now that’s a pleasant thought!

For a real down-home feel, check out what the Chicago Rib Shack has planned. Just for the record, this is exactly where the other resident Cheapos would be if on the other side of the pond next week! They’re in Knightsbridge, near Harrods. For more info, email info@thechicagoribshack.co.uk

In Amsterdam: One of our favorite places to catch great entertainment and share laughs, Boom Chicago, has lots of fun stuff on the docket Tuesday night. Get in the mood earlier with a comedy show called, “Bye Bye Bush!”. For more information on the inaugural fest, go here.

UPDATED: If you’re in the Groningen area, head over to Wijkcentrum Het Floreshuis for pizza and revelry. Events start at 5 p.m. and the food and drinks are cheaply priced. More info: demsfungroningen@gmail.com

Also, check out the Democrats Abroad Netherlands site for up-to-date celebration info.

In St. Petersburg: Fellow Cheapo “Liz” suggests trying the folks at the Grand Hotel Europe, where events are planned. Contact: desk.concierge@grandhoteleurope.com

In Barcelona: This comes courtesy of ‘toshmon’ who commented via our earlier inauguration blog post.

“For Barcelona, information from http://www.amersoc.com/

“When: January 20th from 5 pm to 11 pm (entry at 4:30 pm)
Where: Le Meridien Hotel, C/ La Rambla, 111
Price: 15 euros
What’s included: Live coverage of the swearing-in ceremony on a big screen tv, live music, tapas, beer, wine, soft drinks.

“Make sure to RSVP to admin@amersoc.com and stop by Hotel Le Meridien to pick up your tickets in advance to avoid standing in line at the registration desk on day of the event.”

Thanks for posting ‘toshmon’!

In Granada: Democrats Abroad group will be convening at Paddy’s Irish Pub (on calle Santa Escolastica). Further directions to the venue, info, and more are available here.   The event begins at 4 p.m. and doors open at 3 p.m.

In Athens: The Democrats Abroad hosts an event at the Hardrock Cafe (18, Filellinon). Contact is Alexis Vasilakopoulou (ph: 210 325 2758). For more information, visit the event’s site.

In Madrid: The Hotel Intercontinental offers an event hosted by Democrats Abroad Madrid. The event is private, meaning you must RSVP, but all are welcome and entrance is free of charge. The hotel is at Paseo de la Castellana 49. More details here.

If you’re interested in a more fancy affair, check out this gala event that’s planned in Madrid.

In Rome: We were only able to track down information for the Democrats Abroad event at the Radisson SAS hotel. As of press time on Friday, the event was full. Please comment here if you’re in Rome and know of other events. Thanks!

In Milan: There’s an event at the Fiori Oscuri Bistrot (Via Fiori Oscuri 3, in Brera). All are welcome and there’s no entrance fee. Free copies of the International Herald Tribune will be distributed. For more information, contact Maria Lassila (maria.lassila@gmail.com).

Other suggestions: Check out sites like Democratic Underground, your city’s local Expat Meetup site, or Democrats Abroad for ideas.

Where will you be?

Tell us where you plan to watch the inauguration. Please include city, venue, and relevant contact info. Thanks!

And, go Obama!

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Christmas market at Maria Theresien Platz by 12 degrees C

Ah, Vienna - the city fills us with music. We can’t help it, but it also makes us think of The Sound of Music, even though that musical took place in another Christmas “markt” town, Salzburg. It also makes us think of the fancy Hapsburg family and some of the brightest Christmas lights in Europe.

On Wednesday we put together a photo montage of some of our favorite things about Salzburg’s Christmas markets, so today we offer “some more of our favorite things” about Vienna’s Christmas markets.

(Cue: music!)

Brown paper packages (and puppets and ornaments) tied up with string…

Photo courtesy of tttaaaooo

**Tip: Be sure to pick up a Mozart-themed tree ornament, of which there are many.

Cream colored (Ok, so he’s brown.) ponies and crisp apple streudels…

Photo of the Christmas mini-horse by PaulaFunnell

Girls in white dresses with blue satin sashes…(but we’ll settle for boys in parkas)-

Ice skating at Town Hall; photo by Premshree Pillai

Snowflakes (stenciled into fancy decorations) that stay on my nose and eyelashes…

Photo of holiday lamps courtesy of Edi Weissmann

Silver white winters that melt into spring…

Photo by mosint

Ooooh.

Photo of Vienna’s Townhall by ahisgett

 Ahhh.

Photo taken in front of Schonbrunn Palace, by tomanthony

Fancy!

These are some more of our favorite things!

(Repeat all verses.)

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A traditional Christmas market stall in Salzburg, Austria. (Photo courtesy of nojich)

Carriage rides, outdoor concerts, ice skating, and hand-painted egg ornaments are just some of the things that get the champagne flowing around here during the holiday season. Salzburg has all that and more when it comes to their Christmas fest.

Take a look at photos we hunted down of recent festive happenings at the Salzburg Christmas markets. These are truly a few of our favorite things…

Hand-painted egg ornaments

Photo courtesy of jon gos)

Hundreds of thousands of hand-painted egg tree ornaments are available at the annual Christmas markets. The fragile gems come in various patterns and designs, but traditional holiday symbols, like poinsettias and ivy, seem to be the most popular.

Photo courtesy of minwoo)

Santa Clauses on the march!

Photo courtesy of Savannah Grandfather

Ok, who doesn’t love a good Santa costume, especially when it’s a legitimate throwback to another era entirely, and worn by an enthusiastic teenage boy? (Or is that Harry Potter?) Bonus points if you can figure out what he’s handing out. Anyone want a coupon for a shave?

Carriage rides through the streets of Salzburg!

Photo courtesy of Savannah Grandfather

Horses and garland, and riding, OH MY! We love that Salzburg dresses up its carriages just in time for Santa’s sleigh ride.

Tell us, Cheapos: What are your favorite things about Salzburg Christmas markets?

See also: Our list of recommended budget hotels in Salzburg.

Popularity: 18% [?]

Christmas market in Brussels, Belgium-photo by Ipoh 7

‘Tis the season to visit the European Christmas markets, Cheapos!

The Christmas Market Tradition

Europe’s holiday market tradition began in Germany and Austria. Today, many well-known markets, like those in Nuremberg and Munich, draw record crowds. Heck, there’s even a company that specializes in European Christmas market tours around the holidays.

The most popular markets can still be found in Germany and Austria, but cities in our other countries, like Copenhagen, Denmark and Prague, Czech Republic, throw their own festive fairs. Markets typically open during the last week of November and remain open until the day after Christmas.

Here’s a very merry round-up of the most notable Christmas markets In Europe. If you happen to be nearby, we recommend a browse-through.

Salzburg

The annual “adventmarkt,” filled with stalls, good eats, and more, takes place in Julius-Raab Platz. Check out the fantastical “Christkindlmarkt” web site for more info, or simply visit the Salzburg Tourism Info site here.

Vienna

Mozart’s main stomping ground is the veritable creme de la creme for Christmas market gurus. Fairs are open in multiple locations and feature live DJ music, petting zoos, gospel choirs, and authentic handicrafts. Visit the Vienna Tourism Board for info, dates, and directions to the markets.

Munich

Another mother lode when it comes to Christmas markets in Europe, the Munich Advent “markt” is expansive, boasting concerts, traditional food, and free historical tours of the market. The tourism board has more info, including how to get there, and where to park if you’re arriving by car. (Anyone who wants to offer their own caption for the photo that appears on this page, please pass it on. “Nordic vikings attack unsuspecting child at Munich Christmas market“?)

Berlin

Whether you like your markets authentic or chock full of special effects, Berlin’s the place to be if only for the number and sheer size of some of its markets. Most notably, the market in Potsdamer Platz, titled ”WinterMagic,” features a 4,000 square-foot outdoor space with a Ferris wheel, Legoland structure for kids to play in, and more. A comprehensive list of all markets can be found here.

Bonus: Download a FREE PDF history of the markets here, or watch this YouTube video for more info on the tradition of the German Christmas market. You can also visit the ‘markt’ section of the Berlin Tourism site for more info (in German only).

Copenhagen

The largest market can be found in Tivoli Gardens and has become an infamous go-to spot for getting into the spirit. Here, elves in full costume bounce among revelers and the light displays -orchestrated by the lead designer for Tiffany & Co - hang overhead. Games, ornaments, and much more are available. Check out the “Visit Copenhagen” site for info on this and many more Copenhagen markets. 

Brussels

This year, the Christmas market kicks off in Place St. Catherine. Ice skating is available. Be sure to buy some chocolates, and don’t forget to stop to see Manneken Pis in full Santa regalia. The “Visit Belgium” site has more info.

Prague

The Czech city really does it up with major fests in Old Town Square and Wenceslas Square. Smaller fairs occur elsewhere throughout the holidays. Check out the “Prague Experience” site for info, dates, and more.

Stay tuned this week as we take you through the European Christmas market circuit in daily photo montages.

Tell us: And, if you’ve been to a holiday market in Europe, tell us about it! What was it like? What did you buy or sample?

Happy Holidays, Cheapos!

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The hills are alive in Salzburg, with the sound of Mozart, the von Trapp family, and music programs! The high note to most any performance, too, is that the guides and programs can be picked up for a song, or for free.

Note-worthy souvenirs

Salzburg, the birthplace of Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart, is home to numerous music festivals, classical concerts, and innumerable musical performances.

The Slazburger Festspiele (Salzburg Festival), from late July to the end of August, is the year’s biggest musical celebration. Events take place daily in locations around the city and music ranges from the delicate and regal sounds of the pianoforte to the more pedestrian picks of the electric guitar. And, drum roll… all the programs have, err, programs! Take a few home so you’ll never forget the sounds of Salzburg.

You can also grab copies of concert schedules, guides, flyers, and pamphlets inside the Schloss Mirabell palace as well as in the Domplatz (Cathedral Square).

Cheapo tip: Don’t forget to take note of the unique street musicians in Salzburg. Most artists sell their own CDs for less than €10.

While you’re at it…

Rock some Amadeus! Take home a few Mozartkugal chocolate balls. First concocted in 1890 by Paul Fürst, the kugal is a ball of green pistachio marzipan covered in a layer of nougat, then dunked in dark chocolate. Das ist sehr lecker! Fürst has four confectionaries located around Salzburg. Ten pieces cost $12 USD.

Photo above by LinksmanJD; A kiosk advertises musical concerts in Salzburg.

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A German train pulls into station. Photo by Francois Roche. 

It is that time of year when many travellers start sketching out their plans for 2009 trips to Europe. And for travel within Europe, many of the continent’s budget airlines will unveil their summer 2009 schedules in the coming weeks. Book early for the best discounts.

Plan ahead: Rail travel for next year

Rail travelers can still take a while refining their travel plans for summer 2009, for although many of the schedules are now becoming available, tickets do not generally go on sale until two to four months prior to travel.

The extension of the Europa-Spezial scheme to encompass many more countries means that canny travellers can now plan long treks across Europe with rail fares that greatly undercut even the lowest air fares.

Europa-Spezial: Great value for money

Europa-Spezial fares can be booked online at the German Railways website. Tickets generally go on sale 90 days prior to travel, so bookings can already be made for January 2009.

Choose your trains carefully and you can travel from Budapest to Cologne for just €39 one way - and you can include stopovers on the way (each for a maximum of 48 hours). We chose a Budapest - Prague - Berlin - Cologne routing, with en route stops for two nights in both Prague and Berlin, and found plenty of availability for mid-January 2009 at the lead-in €39 fare.

Other gems there for the taking are €29 one-way from Hamburg to Vienna (via Prague), €39 from Paris or Copenhagen to any station in Germany, and a €39 fare that will take you from any station in Belgium or the Netherlands to Basel on the Swiss border or to Salzburg in Austria.

First class options: Worth considering, even for Cheapos

If the lowest fare for your selected route is already sold out, you can still buy a Europa-Spezial ticket, but it will be priced at a higher tariff tier (e.g. €49, €69, and up). Europa-Spezial fares are also available for first class, and these are really worth checking.

Berlin to Vienna (either direct or with a one or two night stopover in Dresden) for €49 first class sounds almost too good to be true. If you find little availability for Europa-Spezial fares in second class, just have a look to see if the cheapest first class option is still available. First class sells out less quickly, and we have found many examples of journeys where remaining first class availability is cheaper than heavily-booked second class.

The great thing about these Europa-Spezial fares is that, subject to availability at the time of booking, you really can use them on the fast express services. The only real snag is that you must commit yourself to date and time of travel, but at such rock bottom fares that is scarcely a burden.

The new Europa-Spezial fares, along with long-standing promotions like discounted TGV fares in France, might really tip the balance as you weigh up whether it is worth buying a rail pass for 2009.

This article is by Nicky Gardner and Susanne Kries, who together edit hidden europe magazine, which explores people, places and communities across Europe. Every issue of hidden europe includes a lot of tips on budget travel, especially by rail.

Popularity: 100% [?]

Photo courtesy of AndreJenny.com

Ah, Vienna - land of sacher torte, carriage rides, and Mozart! The ringed city, we think, is best viewed on foot. While traditional tram rides provide a respite from hoofing it, if you want to experience the true Vienna, consider a themed walking tour.

While tours through travel agencies could cost you anywhere from €10-20 or more, there are a slew of easy-to-navigate walking tours available for free on-line.

Free Mozart walking tour-

Our favorite walking tour comes courtesy of the Vienna Tourism Board. Retracing the Footsteps of a Genius: A Mozart Walk, is available for free as a downloadable PDF file.

The tour kicks off at The House of the Teutonic Order, where Wolfgang got his start after leaving Salzburg for the big city. The trek continues with visits to mainstays like Mozart’s deathplace at 8 Rauhensteingrasse, a building which now houses a department store, and the memorial to Mozart in Burggarten. Make sure you snap some photos of the noble sculpture of Amadeus here, especially if you visit during warmer months when the floral landscape is in full treble-clef bloom!

The Vienna Tourism Board’s tour ends with an optional second tour (also available in the PDF format) of Schonbrunn and its surroundings.

South of the Ring Vienna tour-

And, if you still can’t get enough of Mozart’s Vienna, try Frommer’s “South of the Ring” tour. This walk, while not all about Amadeus himself, does pass some of his old haunts and eventually leads you to Freihaus and the Theater an der Wien, where Mozart’s “Magic Flute” first premiered.

Also see: Our recommended budget hotels in Vienna.

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No trip to Salzburg is complete without at least a passing nod to “The Sound of Music,” the 1959 Rodgers and Hammerstein Broadway musical set in the city. The movie version, shot six years later, starred Julie Andrews and Christopher Plummer and included many scenes shot in Salzburg.

Not surprisingly, the city’s tourism industry doesn’t shy away from a little “Do-Re-Mi.” Movie-related reminders are available throughout the city (on chocolate and marzipan), a marionette show packs ‘em in, and of course, more than one bus tour will shuttle you from sight to sight.

These “Sound of Music” bus tours are popular with the tourist set, as they offer audio commentary, an easy ride, and lots of photo-ops. The bus is especially convenient for reaching those locales outside the city, such as the lovely St. Gilgen and Lake Wolfgang, the rolling hills behind the opening credits. These tours can get pricy. Panorama Tours offers the four-hour “Original Sound of Music Tour” for €37 for adults ($53) and €18 for children ($26).

Do it yourself Sound of Music tour

However, you don’t need to take a bus tour to visit many of the locations used in the film.

The website Visit Salzburg offers a “do it yourself” Sound of Music tour, with background information on sights used in the making of the movie. Most of the locations listed are in central Salzburg, and many can be visited for free.

Their free walking tour includes the Nonnberg Nunnery (where the nuns sing “Maria”), Mirabell Castle and Mirabell Gardens (the place where Maria and the children sing “Do-Re-Mi”), and the Felsenreitschule and Festival Halls (the stage where the Trapps perform during the Salzburg Festival). For more information, check out Visit Salzburg’s website.

Salzburg’s tourism office offers additional “Sound of Music” locations on their website, Salzburg.info. Sights here include St. Peter’s Cemetery and Leopoldskron Palace. (Read the whole tour here.)

Also see: Our reviews of cheap hotels in Salzburg.

Popularity: 21% [?]

Photo by Miranda Siegel

Wondering how we captured this excellent sky-high view over Salzburg?

We didn’t climb Mönchsberg, the mountain from which we snapped the photo. Instead, we entered a building in Museumsplatz, pressed a button the size of a dog’s paw, and took a bizarre James Bond-ish elevator straight up through the mountain rock.

Mönchsberg stands approximately 523 meters high and forms a fitting backdrop for the spires of the Altstadt. It provides a quick escape from the Altstadt’s tourist-congested bowels on a summer day, and offers a host of afternoon diversions. Numerous hiking paths, outdoor sculptures and installations, and a huge panoramic terrace are among the delights.

The mountaintop is also home to the second component of Museum der Moderne, the first of which—Rupertinum—can be found in the Altstadt. The gray, box-like museum, designed by the Münich architect firm Friedrich Hoff Zwink, is visible from the ground and showcases contemporary international art. It can be accessed for an additional €8.

Tickets for the Mönchsbergsaufzug (Mönchsberg Lift) are €2.90 roundtrip and €1.80 one-way. If you’re feeling particularly frugal (and energetic) you can reach the top of Mönschberg from the stairs at Toscaninihof in about 15 minutes.

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