The Gucci store on Via Condotti. Photo: Scalleja.

By Samantha Collins in Rome–

Whether you are seeking designer dresses or cheap chic, Rome has some of the best places to shop in Italy. The names of Italy’s finest designers sit alongside independent boutiques and market stalls as shopping in Rome caters to every budget.

Here is my “Top Five” guide to the best places to go whether you are looking for Prada shoes or a flea market bargain.

1. Via Condotti and the Spanish Steps

This is the home of Rome’s designer shopping area and where you will find Prada next to Armani with a sprinkling of Gucci. The shops that line Via Condotti entice your credit card out of hiding with their glittering window displays. Take time also for people watching, as this is the haunt of any celebrity in town worth their Hermes bag. And even if this is way out of your budget, remember it costs nothing to go in and unfold things.

2. Via Cola di Rienzo

This busy shopping street just behind Castle St. Angelo is home to mid-price shops with a mix of designer boutiques and high street chains. Look out for Brandy, a teenage basement clothes shop that is almost hidden below street level. COIN, one of Rome’s few department stores is a great place to spend an hour or two browsing.

For a bite, check out “Castroni,” a delicatessen that sells not only a fantastic range of Italian delicacies but also stocks international food. It’s the only place in Rome where you can buy peanut butter or baked beans! (Metro A, Lepanto or Ottiviano)

3. Via del Corso

This long narrow street is at the heart of Rome’s historic centre running from Piazza Venezia to Piazza del Popolo and a short walk from the Pantheon and the Trevi Fountain. During the evenings, the street is packed with shoppers. Wander around the mix of high street stores like H&M, Mango, Diesel, Levis, and Zara mixed with small designer boutiques, bookstores, and the elegant Galleria Alberto Soldi shopping centre.

4. Porto Portese Flea Market

Held every Sunday morning, this is the largest market in Rome and the place to come for a bargain. With a mix of second hand and new goods, food, antiques, and general bric-a-brac, spare at least a couple of hours to browse the endless rows of stalls.

Getting there: Tram 8 Largo Argentina to Trastevere Station – then about a five minute walk to Via Ippolito Nievo. Follow the crowds.

5. EurRoma2 and Castello Romano Outlet

Euroma2 is a newly-opened shopping centre in the EUR area of Rome spread over three floors in an elegant temple style with ornate glass domes. Chain stores and designer shopping sit alongside coffee shops and restaurants catering to all budgets. This is a good place to come during summer as it’s air-conditioned and all indoors.

Getting there: Take the Metro to EUR Palasport Metro Line B and then take the free shuttle bus that stops just outside, a journey of around 10 minutes.

Castello Romano is a designer outlet village, part of the McArthur Glen chain, around 15km south of Rome. Designer discounts housed in a mock ancient Roman village, brands here include Burberry, Calvin Klein, Dolce & Gabanna, and Roberto Cavalli.

Getting there: There is a bus service to the outlet that operates from EUR FERMI Metro Line B and there is a private shuttle that can be booked at most hotel receptions.

About the author: Samantha Collins is a freelance travel writer and editor, who has lived in Rome for the past two years.  She is originally from Manchester in the UK.  Read all about her adventures by visiting her blog, www.samanthacollinsrome.blogspot.com.

Popularity: 6% [?]

Who can resist French art books? Photos by Theadora Brack.

By Théadora Brack in Paris—

Oops, I did it again.

I attended an exposition’s “vernissage” (literally, the “varnishing”—how the French refer to a preview or opening of an art show), and became smitten with the show and its fine-looking catalog. Obsession activated. Hit hard, and a post card just wouldn’t do.

But, how can I get an art catalogue on the cheap? Walk this way!

1. Check out that rack of glossies!

Most museum shops sell “les albums de l’exposition” (guides, magazines, and portfolios). Published by Beaux Arts Magazine, Connaissance des Arts, Le Figaro, or the museum itself, these slim gems are usually prominently displayed, lightweight and affordable, costing just €2 to €10. Chockfull of visuals with punch, they’ll satisfy your head, pocketbook and suitcase. Translated versions are often available, too.

Books on sale!

2. Crack Da Chintzy code

La Boutique du Musée du Louvre not only carries current and back issues of “albums de l’exposition” (see above), but also discounts catalogs from its previous expositions by up to 60% off their original cost!

Other museums like the Centre Pompidou, Musée Carnavalet, and The Palais de Tokyo also slash art catalogue prices throughout the year. Recently at the Musée Galliera (museum of fashion), I purchased the Madame Carven catalogue for just €12, marked down from €30. Memorize one of my favorite French words, “soldes” (“on sale”), and you too will start spotting bargains everywhere. (As Anaïs Nin wrote, “We don’t see things as they are. We see things as we are.”)

3. Ch-ching at Fuh-nack!

Even my French friends were surprised to learn that Fnac (pronounced “fuh-nack”), the largest French entertainment retail chain, discounts its inventory of books. This includes the latest catalogues from current blockbuster shows, like Le Grande Monde d’Andy Warhol at the Grand Palais, Kadinsky at the Centre Pompidou, the David LaChapelle Retrospective at the Musée de la Monnaie, and Valadon et Utrillo at La Pinacothèque!

Fnac is a bustling combination of Barnes & Noble, Best Buy, Staples, and Ticketmaster. With everything from laptops and DVDs to French comic books and concert tickets, it’s one-stop shopping. You can also pick up museum admission tickets.

4. Flâneur-tastique! That’s how we stroll.

I’ve been known to spend entire days in the aisles of Mona Lisait Librairies. Although this funky bookstore chain that specializes in new and used art books has shops scattered all over Paris, its Marais location at 17bis rue Pavée (Metro: St Paul) is closest to my heart. Its creaky wooden floorboards, uneven brick flooring, tinny classical music, helpful staff, and free gift-wrapping all add up to real atmosphere.

Another favorite is at Place Joachim du Bellay, not far from the Centre Pompidou. Each of the seven locations has its own charm, and definitely worth a visit. (By the way, “Mona lisait” means “Mona was reading.”)

The "Librarie du Passage."

For another take on the arts, go meet the artists or at least their wax replicas at the Musée Grévin (Paris Wax Museum). Then visit the Librairie du Passage just a few feet away at 39 and 48 Passage Jouffroy (near Grand Boulevard–pictured above). Open since 1846, it’s in one of Paris’ classic 19th-century shopping arcades. Rumor has it that Victor Hugo, a renowned bargain hound, got his Cheapo on at this very shop. 

6. Mosey on to Glory

Here I weep. At La librairie de l’Avenue in the middle of Clignancourt Flea Market (Métros: Garibaldi or Porte de Clignancourt), the angels sing on high from a little CD player located just below the cashier’s desk. The sweet smell of coffee and frankincense tickles the nose.

This large but still intimate bookshop is well stocked with new and used art books, catalogues, vintage prints and antique magazines. Deciding exactly where to start my quest is the only glitch I encounter here as I make my way though the narrow labyrinth of floor to ceiling bookshelves, stocked with discounted books that have been meticulously organized by category, author or genre.

7. Don’t forget to look in the ‘hood

Neighborhood bookstores (”librairies”) all over the city occasionally stock and discount catalogues from current and past expositions. The handsome books are usually displayed in the windows.

How to find out about current art expositions in Paris

Pariscope: Invest 40 cents in a copy of Pariscope, available at any newsstand or kiosk. The pocket-sized weekly listings magazine covers the week’s happenings from theatre, cinema and arts, to music and restaurants. It hits the stands on Wednesdays.

An important note on pronunciation:

You risk raising a few bemused eyebrows if you ask for directions to an “exhibition.” “Exhibitions” (with an “h”) are peep shows—which is fine, if that’s the sort of display you’re after. However, if you’re looking for art, give that word a “p”–“exposition”!

Tell us. Do you have a favorite bookstore in Paris? Tell us below.

About the author and photographer: Theadora Brack is a writer working in Paris. Her fiction has appeared in more than 30 literary publications, including 3AM International, The Smoking Poet, Beloit Fiction Journal, Mid-American Review, and the Haight-Ashbury Literary Journal.

Popularity: 9% [?]

High-end undergarments for cheapo prices at Sympa in Paris.

By Theadora Brack—

I see London, I see France… I see Cheapo underpants!

I’m still giddy with excitement. You see, I’ve just discovered Paris’ route de la soie (“Silk Road”). It’s a road through the less-traveled bargain clothing stores of Montmartre. Follow my lead and you, too, can find high-end clothing at bargain-bin prices.

The Panty Raid low-down

Our search takes place at Les Magasins Sympa Grandes Marques Griffées, or just “Sympa” for short.  Sympa is a bargain clothing store with several outlets in Montmartre. Here you can find lingerie, dresses, blouses, skirts, and coats–all designer seconds from previous collections. These shops are just a stone’s throw from the steps of the Basilique du Sacré-Coeur at Metro Anvers.

Save the more popular shopping districts (rues Rivoli, Hausmann, St. Honoré and de Rennes) for window shopping (or, lèche-vitrine, “window licking” in French). On the racks, shelves, and bins of the Sympa shops, you’ll find the same trendy brands, like Kookai, Jennyfer, Naf-Naf, Pimkie, Printemps, Sinéquanone, and Sandro, but for a fraction of their original cost.

Fancy Pants

The Sympa stores are located along the rue de Steinkerque, a street once notorious for its prostitutes and dance halls. Today, you can rummage through the bargains in these same buildings–under new management, of course!

Imagine the surreal charm of shopping for your “unmentionables” inside the former brothel that Pablo Picasso frequented during his “blue period”! Another Sympa now occupies part of “le bal de l’Elysée Montmartre,” where the famed Can Can star (and famorite muse of Henri de Toulouse-Lautrec) La Goulue made her racy debut before defecting to the nearby Moulin Rouge. You can nab your own knickers in the very room where she once flashed hers so fetchingly at the absinthe-quaffing crowds.

If only these walls could speak.

Ah, but at Sympa maybe they do. I recently purchased armfuls of Etam’s exquisite delicacies, trimmed with yards of lace and bows, and each possessing a provocative name like “Extravagante,” “Hypnotique,” “Promesse,” “Malicieuse,” “Offrande,” “Merveilles,” “Amourette,” “Faveur,” “Tentation,” and finally, “Bliss.”

As I sauntered home along the cobblestone streets, still under the spell of my panty raid, I could swear that I spotted Aristide Bruant drift by, whistling at me and looking rather dapper in his black cape and long red scarf. Or was that Monsieur Dalí, perchance?

Tips for Lingerie Shopping

1. First, get fortified with un café or, better yet, une bière.

2. Leave handbag at home. Carry cash in pocket.

3. Don’t forget sense of humor.

4. Hang tough. Own your corner of the bargain bin!

5. There are no dressing rooms. Know your European size numbers.

6. The best deals are always in the exterior bins on the sidewalks.

7. Hate crowds? Shop weekday mornings.

8. Saturday mornings are usually delivery day, but every day is a drastic sale day at Sympa.

Practical Info

Sympa locations:
62, blvd. De Rochechouart, corner of Steinkerque
1 bis, rue de Steinkerque
18, rue d’Orsel, corner of Steinkerque

Days and Hours: Monday through Saturday, 10 AM—7 PM

Metro: at Anvers (Pigalle and Abbesses are nearby, too)

While you’re in the neighborhood…

In the mood for art after your panty raid? Four museums in the quartier de Montmartre:

Espace Dalí (Dive into the convoluted imagination of the surrealist master!)
Days and Hours: Monday through Sunday, 10 AM—6:30 PM
Metros: Anvers, Abbesses
Discounts: children under 8 free

Le Halle Saint Pierre
(Visionaries, naives and outsiders—and a cozy café!)
2, rue Ronsard
Days and Hours: Monday through Sunday, 10 AM—6 PM
(Special August Days and Hours: Monday through Friday, 12 Noon—6 PM)
Metros: Anvers, Abbesses

Musée de Montmartre (Where Impressionism began!)
12 rue Cortot
Days and Hours: Tuesday through Sunday, 11 AM—6 PM
Métros: Abbesses
Discounts: children under 12 free

Musée de l’érotisme (Ooh la lah!)
72, boulevard de Clichy
Métros: Blanche, Pigalle
Days and Hours: Monday through Sunday, 10 AM—2 AM
Don’t miss the permanent exhibition on Montmartre’s famous brothels!

About the author and photographer: Theadora Brack is a writer working in Paris. Her fiction has appeared in more than 30 literary publications, including 3AM International, The Smoking Poet, Beloit Fiction Journal, Mid-American Review, and the Haight-Ashbury Literary Journal.

Popularity: 15% [?]

Rome’s Gucci store on Via dei Condotti, as photographed by scalleja

Rome, city of the Colosseum, the Vatican, and some of the most coveted art in the world, is also a well-known fashion center. Why not do as the Romans do, and snag a few fabulous—and free—haute couture shopping bags, before you head home?

Pack a bag

As Cheapos, we can’t exactly advocate an indulgent spending spree, but we can advise you to keep those glossy shopping bags, if such a spree should occur. (Hey, we’re all human, right?) The homeland of Armani, Prada, Versace, Dolce and Gabbana, and Gucci offers some of the snazziest fashions in Europe and most purchases come in fancy bags with pristine packaging.

Via dei Condotti is one of the richest streets in Italy and boasts the stores, and glossy bags to prove it. This is where to find the big names listed above. On Via del Corso, which runs through the historic city center of Rome, you’ll find Ferrari and Swarovski crystal while Piazza Navona is the best place for gallery-hopping and antique browsing. An “ingresso gratuito” sign in the window is your signal to poke around for free. A “saldi” sign means there’s a sale going on.

Cheapo tip: Find the least expensive item in a designer shop and buy it: think keychain, a towel, baby booties, or even a pen or pencil. The cheapest wares still come in pretty packaging and are easiest to pack. Back home, we’ve been known to carry a small, paper Gucci bag as a lunch sack. And, ribbons from sweet, haute-worthy packages make great hair ties!

While you’re at it…

Don’t forget the outlets! Rome is known for its factory warehouses full of discounted designer duds. We recommend you check out Fashion District Valmonte, just 45 minutes east of Rome’s city center, which boasts 150 designer shops (Calvin Klein, Pierre Cardin, and Sisley to name a few) and is Italy’s self-proclaimed “largest shopping project.” For directions and coupons for the outlet, visit Valmonte’s web site.

Popularity: 23% [?]

Photo by JamesWallis

Cheapo shoppers, be warned: the weather in Paris this spring was unseasonably cool—apart from that burst of heat over Easter—and many stores have reported disappointing sales. This is great news for us as it means only one thing: fantastic markdowns in the sales starting on June 27.

At this time of the year, Parisian women are busy scoping out the stores for what they intend to buy once the sales get started. Precision targeting is the name of their game. Decide exactly what you want to buy and then hover patiently in the third week of June for the “pre-sale” discounts that are usually handed out by the shopkeepers who know they must clear their stock by mid-July. The other day we were were told in a shoe store that there was an “exceptional” discount of €15 on any pair of shoes that day.

A great place to max out your sale leverage is to shop at the outlet stores for your favourite brands. These places already have 30 to 60 percent markdowns on items left over from last season. When the sales roll around you get an extra 30 to 50 percent off. That’s a great deal in any currency.

Check out the Zadig and Voltaire outlet in the Marais, for instance. Zadig and Voltaire is one of the staples (along with brands like A.P.C., Isabelle Marant, Comptoir des Cotonniers, and Vanessa Bruno) of the fashionable Parisian’s wardrobe. You can find their famed loose cashmere sweaters in muted tones of moss, plum, and chocolate as well as a chic line for girls under 12 called Zadig and Voltaire Little for girls up to age 12. Cecilia Sarkozy, France’s First Lady and leading fashion icon, was wearing a pair of white Zadig trousers on election victory night last month.

Le stock Zadig et Voltaire is located at 22 rue du Bourg Tibourg, 4th. M° Hotel de Ville.

Popularity: 8% [?]